Focus adjustment

How do I get my model 720IS to focus on small text on the back of a spoon? In manual focus mode the sharpest focus is at the low end of the range, but it "should" be sharper.

lstallard wrote:
How do I get my model 720IS to focus on small text on the back of a spoon? In manual focus mode the sharpest focus is at the low end of the range, but it "should" be sharper.
You might be too close to the subject. Make sure you are in macro mode and then make sure you aren't closer than the minimum focusing distance.
http://trulandphoto.zenfolio.com/
http://trulandphoto.blogspot.com/

Similar Messages

D800-focus adjustment info in APERTURE image archive?

Hey dear friends,
I do not find under my picture metadatas the info about the focus adjustment of my lens/camera.
Downloading same picture into the NIKON VIEW software, this inof is available
In Aperture I expect this ino under EXIF-Infomation
Any help very wellcomed
Thnaks in advance
Franz-Josef
info from NIKON manual about focus adjustment

Hey Ernie
my mistake
I thought I answered you already, but I didn´t
Here attached three screenshots of the situation
      picture w/o focus ajustment ( off)
      picture with focus adjustement 0
      picture with focus adjustment -10
have a look in the third section : Kamerainformationen>> AF-Feinabst.:
Adjustment can be tuned in the range of +/- 20 for the body and for each lens
Is that what you have been looking for.
Any idea now, where to find this info in APERTURE?
Thanks and sorry for the late reply :-((
Best ergards
FJ

Can starcam 370i focus adjust manually?

Hey guys,
i bought starcam 370i today and its resolution is bad! :sad:so i want to adjust it and i can't. can it be done manually or.... plz!

you can adjust the focus by rotating the grey circle which goes around the lens

Is there a fix for 5d ii focus issue

Hello, I just purchased the 5Dii used but the owner said the camera was working perfectly. I notice that when I take photos the photos do not look sharp. I am shooting in raw and using fast enough settings that they should be sharp. I tried different lenses and a tripod still same results when viewed at 100%. So I have been reading about the 5d ii having focus issues and was wondering if there is a fix to this problem? Also, I read that with 21 mp the photos won't look sharp in the view finder or when viewed at 100% has anyone else heard this? Any suggestions would be helpful. I am thinking I need to return the item which is a shame, I was so excited to get the 5d ii and very disappointed to be having this issue.

I don't suggest using the viewfinder to judge quality of photos -- it's too small.
There are no focus "issues" with a 5D II -- it's an excellent camera. It doesn't have the advanced focus system of the 5D III but if the focus points on your 5D II tell you that something is correctly focused then it should be correctly focused.
There are NUMEROUS things that can cause problems (none of which are defects.)
1) If you allow the camera to auto-select it's focus point, remember that the camera will always pick the focus point which can lock focus at the closest focusing distance. Suppose you're taking a photo of someone's face, but on the side of the frame there's a bush -- and that push is in far enough that one of the focus points is on the bush. The camera will focus on the bush and NOT on your subject's face. Usually you will want the camera to focus on the nearest subject, but when shooting shots with distracting elements in the frame which are closer then your intended subject, you need to pick the focus point you want the camera to use rather than allow it to auto-select the point.
2) If focusing at a particularly low focal ratio (especially at close distances) the depth of field can get REALLY thin. If you want focus on your subject's eyes -- you will need to carefully position the focus point and lock focus on your subject's eyes -- otherwise you may end up getting a focus lock on their nose (as an example) and the eyes will be slightly soft.
3) In the default "one shot" mode, the camera will focus prior to taking the shot. When focus lock is achieved the camera will stop adjusting focus. If either you or your subject move after that point, the camera will NOT re-adjust -- you'll get a soft shot. With moderate f-stops usually a small movement wont change focus distance enough to matter -- this is mostly an issue at shallow f-stops. But if shooting action where you KNOW your subject is moving and focus distance is changing, you need to use the "AI Servo" mode which continuosly updates focus.
4) Your 5D II allows you to adjust the focus accuracy of a lens. Some lenses will routinely focus just slightly in front or behind your intended focus distance. When you detect that you have a lens that does this, the camera can compensate. This adjustment requires that you set up an accurate focus test to determine if an adjustment is needed and how much. Do not attempt to make an adjustment by using regular every-day shots... use a carefully controlled focus target, tripod, etc. There's a procedure for doing this.
5) If you suspect inaccuracy with focus points (and you really need to be careful to use controlled circumstances before arriving at such a conclusion) you can test by switching to "live view" mode to see if you get different results. Live view mode does not use the phase-detect auto-focus points... it uses contrast-detection focus instead. Contrast detection is slower but in theory should be able to provide more accurate focus as long as you have a subject with some decent contrast. If live view is consistently outperforming the standard phase-detect AF mode then you may need to perform focus adjustment on your camera (this is specific to each lens you own... this is because each lens can behave differently.)
Lastly... your camera records which AF points were used when it takes a photo. This data can be displayed IF you use the Canon EOS Utility (which should have come with your camera). It'll put the familiar focus array overlaying your photo and highlight the active point(s). Just be aware that if you did a "focus and recompose" that the camera is going to report which focus point was used to lock focus but wouldn't know you recomposed the shot. If you're not recomposing and your subject distance wasn't changing then the utility should be accurate.
Incidentally, Apple's "Aperture" software also allows you to view the Canon focus point data. As far as I'm aware, this is not available in Lightroom or Photoshop.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Vf-0040 instant web cam is not working good

This is my first web cam it's a hand me down ,i spent days trying to figure out how to get it working until i found out i needed 2 different software's to run it. Download the Creative WebCam Center and WCC_PCApp_US_1_71_02 driver and know it's sort of working after all my effort.
It is so blurry i can't even make out my own face? I cleaned the lens with alcohol and a cue tips and it wasn't any better than before and there is what seems to be a fake focus adjustment knob but it doesn't move? I played with the software and used the advanced settings and got no noticeable difference except in the color of the blur that's supposed to be my face.
What did i do wrong or is the web cam wrong

Hi there @Vonita
Welcome to the HP Support Forums!
I understand that you are having problems with your webcam, and I am happy to help. Firstly, can you post the full product number and the operating system you are using? That would help me to direct you to the correct drivers.
How Do I Find My Model Number or Product Number?
Is the Windows Version on My Computer 32-bit or 64-bit?
For now, you can take a look at whichever of these most applies to your system.
Webcam Troubleshooting (Windows 8)
Webcam Troubleshooting (Windows 7)
Malygris1
I work on behalf of HP
Please click Accept as Solution if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click Kudos Thumbs Up on the right to say “Thanks” for helping!

Real-time HDV importing ..& Happy New Year!

Hi! Happy 2006!
Some time in December (?) I said I'd been to the London Apple Store to try importing HDV - with a Sony FX-1 camcorder - into iMovie HD on a PowerMac, to see if it'd import in "real time" ..instead of importing at half or quarter speed, on my PowerBook and Mac mini, while it converts hi-definition footage into Apple's 'Intermediate Codec' (to make HDV MPEG footage editable).
It couldn't be done in the hour and a half I was there, so an Apple Genius was going to get back to me.
After a bit of complaining and cajoling, a Genius at 'The Studio' in the Store finally got back to me on Jan 3rd. [I'm now back home, so this is my first visit to Discussions for a while!]
As I promised that I'd report back, here's what he said:
"Today I imported HDV 1080i footage into iMovie using the Sony HDR-FX1 Camcorder using a Dual 2.7 G5 Power Mac with 4.5 Gb of Ram and there didn't appear to be any lag, it was realtime. I would recommend having as much memory as possible and having less than 4.5 might mean there is a transcoding lag as iMovie converts the HDC encoded footage using the Apple Intermediate Codec. I do not have any details what the minimum speed processor and memory requirements are to achieve realtime import, however it is hardware dependent.
As another alternative you may consider using Final Cut Pro 5 software. This software uses the HDV Codec Natively and there is therefore no transcoding required. Capture is in realtime, whatever machine you use, so long as it is within the minimum requirements for Final Cut Pro 5. (Please check http://www.apple.com/finalcutstudio/finalcutpro/specs.html for further detail) For details of using HDV with Final Cut Pro 5 please go to http://www.apple.com/finalcutstudio/finalcutpro/editanything.html
I hope this goes someway to answering your queries."
(..So maybe I'll get a post-Christmas present of a quad ..Daniel's should have arrived by now ..wonder if his feet have touched the ground since..)
So we who patiently wait while iMovie HD imports hi-def HDV at half-speed or slower could achieve 'real-time' importing with a PowerMac and lots of RAM, it seems.
I also tried an HC-1 (..the compact 1-chip HDV camcorder..) and have to report that the auto-focus isn't anywhere near so fast as the pretty-near-instant focusing of the FX-1, and - predictably - its low-light performance isn't anywhere near the bright, un-grainy, colourful images of the FX-1. But the HC-1 does have NightShot and Super NightShot for shooting (monochrome) in absolute darkness, helped by infra-red LEDS on the camera, which the big, bulky FX-1 doesn't do. The HC-1 has just about all of the other gizmos of the FX-1 (..user-definable preset transitions - to zoom, change focus, adjust white balance, etc, automatically during shots..) but they're accessible mainly through touch-screen menus, instead of via quick push dedicated switches.
So Happy New Year; hope it's a good one - and a faster Mac DOES mean real-time importing of HDV footage!
[..I notice that Focus FireStore on-camera hard drives - which mean "say goodbye to importing, because your footage is saved to disc while you shoot" - have an HDV-compatible model ..but I think it still takes time to convert the captured HDV MPEG footage on the drive into Apple's Intermediate Codec for editing within iMovie HD. I'll investigate further..]
Hope you had a good Christmas/Hanukah/whatever!

HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Kalman Toth Database & OLAP Architect
SQL Server 2014 Database Design
New Book / Kindle: Beginner Database Design & SQL Programming Using Microsoft SQL Server 2014

Uploading 5D mark 2 using EOS Utility

I have recently upgraded my camera, computer & all software and was told by a printing lab in town that my image didn't have a colour profile....WHAT....? I am totally clueless about how to fix this or where in the process of shooting / up loading / editing or saving i am going wrong so that my images are ending up without a colour profile. I am currently doing some product photography to be published in an artists monograph so it is important that i get this issue resolved asap, preferably before I edit any more images for them wrong!
I am using a 5D Mark2. It is set to colour space: Adobe RGB in camera. I am using the EOS Utility software to up load the images and cant find any settings to change in that program. I am then doing basic editing in Adobe Bridge CS5.1 and lastly opening the images in Photoshop, doing a final edit and saving as PSD, TIFF and JPG files. Does anyone know if this is the best/right way to be editing my images or if there is a crucial step i am missing in my editing process.
Please could someone help ASAP. I am on a very tight schedule and worry that I might be ruining my images that look so great in camera!

Thanks for the many comments, I turn on the computer, turn on the camera using the AC adapter. I then plug the USB cord into the computer. The computer recognizes the camera and the EOS first screen comes up asking “what do you want to do”, I click operate “camera”. Then up comes what I call the EOS screen its about 3 inches wide, has camera settings on top and you work your way down to three choices live view, test screen and something else. I click on live view and the camera mirror locks up and I get the image on the computer screen, in real time. I then do my focus adjustment,, set my shutter, and f stop via the computer. That where the computer assist seems to stop. Yes, I do know that I have to close the live view. I then try to use what looks like a shutter button on the computer screen and nothing happens. I can click the shutter manually and two things happen. I have registered Photoshop to receive the photos. Photoshop which is already open, received the new image as a jpg. The second thing that happens is the a small “screen” which had the same photo as photoshop opens, this is the screen that open if you have no project/program registered. I cannot make the camera function (take a photo) via the computer. Has any one gotten their computer to take the photo or do you have to push the shutter manually? You mengtioned normal remote shooting, is that different that using live view?

Need advice, 5d mark ii autofocus issues

Hello everyone!
Me and my 5D mark ii need some advice. I bought it some years ago, but didn't use it too much until the last year or so (long story) and I really should have, since the warranty is long expired :/
I'm having issues with autofocus. I was shooting some product photos in studio when I realized that this was a pretty big issue, I've just told myself that it was a user error other times when a shot was out of focus, but this was getting serious and I'm honestly not that horrible of a photographer
I recently also purchased the spyder lenscal, to check if it could be my lenses (though it did seem weird that this issue would affect ALL my lenses, and that it would only happen sometimes) and with my first test I took a photo and it looked a little off center, so I did a minor micro adjustment, turned the focus ring all out, made the camera focus and take a photo, and the focus was now WAY off. I found it odd, so I simply turned the focus ring again, focused and took another shot, and this time the focus was almost spot on. Oh, I only used center af point, the red point shows focus where I wanted it. I did the above several more times, in good lighting and camera on tripod, and some photos turned out pretty sharp while others were completely out of focus. I own 2 lenses, 17-40 and 50mm, and this happens on both though it seems to happen less frequently with the 17-40. I also find the autofocus hunting something fierce from time to time, no matter if it's in a well lit studio, outdoors or indoors.
Have anyone else had this issue and had it fixed at a certified canon service center? I'm trying to figure out if it's worth fixing or if it's time looking for a new camera. Honestly, I do want it fixed. I bought this camera with a small inheritance, investing in a camera that was going to stay with me for as long as possible as I usually dont have the funds to buy new ones that often. I'm afraid that sending it in for repair will cost so much that it would be wiser to just get a new one.
I'm guessing there isn't anything I can do myself about this issue. Does anyone know how much approximately it costs to get something like this fixed?
Sorry for the wall of text, and thank you for any advice you can give me.

Here are several ideas...
Okay, first of all you wrote you are seeing the same issues with both lenses: 17-40 and a 50mm.
Which 50mm? If it's the 50/1.8, it's a micro motor lens with a reputation for somewhat iffy auto focus. Many folks who try to Micro Focus Adjust it eventually give up, because it isn't very consistent. It also tends to hunt a lot in lower light. You probably would see better results with only the center point and this lens, but a USM lens such as the EF 50/1.4 or similar would give much faster, more consistent AF.
The 17-40 is an f4 lens... so can't take full advantage of the f2.8 sensitivity of the center AF point. Still, as an USM lens, it should focus more surely and quickly than the EF 50/1.8.
What focus mode are you using? One Shot or AI Servo?
See the AF point pattern in the above response? Note the 6 points right around the center one (roughly on or within the circle denoting the spot focus area), making for a total of 15? Those are "hidden" Assist Points that have to be enabled in the menu, are not indicated in the viewfinder and only work in AI Servo focus mode. The other nine points (center one, plus 8 peripheral), as seen indicated in the viewfinder, are available in both One Shot and AI Servo. For the type of photography you are doing, I'd be using One Shot, which gives greater accuracy than AI Servo. (Notes: 1. Above ignores AI Focus mode... because it really isn't a focus mode at all. In AI Focus the camera is supposed to decide for you whether or not the subject is moving, then switch to using the appropriate mode: AI Servo for moving and One Shot for stationary subjects. 2. Live View focusing uses contrast detection AF instead of phase detection that's done with the AF points seen in the viewfinder, is even more accurate than One Shot, although it's much slower.)
Of the nine "usual" AF points, on 5DII (and 5D original for that matter), yes, only the center one is the more sensitive "cross" type. All the others are single axis an less sensitive. However, for the types of things you shoot, they should all be usable. The 5DII's AF system is rated down to about -.5 or -1.0 EV light levels, if memory serves. I find the center point on mine is actually a little better in low light than my 7Ds or, before them, 50Ds... all of which are rated the same as the 5DII. Slower, yes, but still able to lock on after the 7Ds and 50Ds gave up completely.
Anyway, I most often use the center point only on my 5DII (and with other cameras). You do have to be a bit careful focusing and recomposing, though, with any shallow depth of field shots.
Regarding calibrating your lenses using MFA... I haven't used the product you mention and don't know how you are using it.. Canon and Reikan Focal both recommend the "target" for most lenses be at a distance 50X the focal lenght of the lens. So a 50mm lens would have a target 2500mm or 2.5 meters (or about 8 feet) away. A zoom lens is harder to MFA.... you probably should check it at both extremes of the focal length range and if they aren't the same (seldom are) might need to arrive at an average amount of adjustment or skew it a little toward one end or the other that you use most. (Note: newer cameras with a later version of the MFA feature allow for two adjustments to zoom lenses, one at each end of the zoom range.)
Also, I've heard of folks having trouble doing calibration indoors, in artificial light. In particular, any common fluorescent lamps can mess with AF. Best if possible to do it outdoors in sunlight or light overcast or light shade.
Stopping down to f11, you should get a lot of depth of field that would hide most minor focus errors, unless the subject is very close (i.e., near macro distances).
If the camera and lenses haven't been used much, you might try cleaning the lens to camera electronic contacts. I recommend just lightly dampening a clean, lint free rag with a few drops of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and carefully wiping the contacts with that. There might be finger oils or something on them effecting AF performance.
It also might be worth having the camera cleaned. Perhaps some dust has settled on the AF sensor array or on the mirror that's effecting AF performance. I don't recommend trying to clean these yourself, perhaps aside from a puff of air from a bulb blower.
How are you viewing and evaluating your images? I ask because many people make the mistake of over magnifying images.... looking at a 5DII's image at 100% is like looking at a five or six foot wide print from 18" away... so close that minor and meaningless flaws are bound to be seen. I usually evaluate image focus and sharpness at 50% or 33% with my cameras (though I do work on images at higher magnifications for other reasons).
Also, some softwares can be a little "flaky". I use Lightroom extensively and have to be careful. When I open an image at even moderate magnifications in the Develop module, it takes a while to load, showing an enlarged thumbnail intially that always looks poorly focused... And I find if I have the crop tool active, it takes even a little longer to render the image correctly and show it's true sharpness and focus accuracy.
Finally... do you have any filters on the lenses? If so, try some tests without any filters. I have seen filters effect AF performance. If not using one it's possible a lens hood might help, too, by keeping oblique light off the front of the lens.
All that being said, it is possible something is wrong with the camera and you should have it (and the lenses) looked at.
Hope this helps! Keep us posted.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

D1 Mark III firmware 1.3.2, Using EOS utility Liveview.

I cannot get the computer screen shutter button to take the photo. I can get the preview to come up but then I have to close it and physically push the shutter. Also when I try to use fast view a box pops up saying it is bussy. The instructions say you should be able to do this from the computer. Using EOS utility. Any help would be appreciated, solutions would be better.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Thanks for the many comments, I turn on the computer, turn on the camera using the AC adapter. I then plug the USB cord into the computer. The computer recognizes the camera and the EOS first screen comes up asking “what do you want to do”, I click operate “camera”. Then up comes what I call the EOS screen its about 3 inches wide, has camera settings on top and you work your way down to three choices live view, test screen and something else. I click on live view and the camera mirror locks up and I get the image on the computer screen, in real time. I then do my focus adjustment,, set my shutter, and f stop via the computer. That where the computer assist seems to stop. Yes, I do know that I have to close the live view. I then try to use what looks like a shutter button on the computer screen and nothing happens. I can click the shutter manually and two things happen. I have registered Photoshop to receive the photos. Photoshop which is already open, received the new image as a jpg. The second thing that happens is the a small “screen” which had the same photo as photoshop opens, this is the screen that open if you have no project/program registered. I cannot make the camera function (take a photo) via the computer. Has any one gotten their computer to take the photo or do you have to push the shutter manually? You mengtioned normal remote shooting, is that different that using live view?

An old 5D

Hi
I have a 30D which I love.. but I'd like more image quality for printing up to A2.. my best from the 30D has been A3 so far, better sensitivity as I'm always fighting for light, even at F2 I'd also like Manual+AutoISO that really works (6D/5DIII) but the budgets won't allow at this point.
Point is with the 5D I can't see anything much other than the bigger sensor that's different to the 30D
what am I missing?
oh, and I don't care about video.
Derek

Do you have "crop only" or EF-S lenses and/or long telephotos that you use on your 30D? If you switch to full frame, you'll have to replace those, too. The crop/EF-S either won't fit or will vignette heavily. Or, if you use long teles, you'll need even longer (i.e., bigger/heavier & more expensive) ones.
If it makes more sense to stick with a crop camera and since you don't care about video, you might consider a 50D. It's a significant step up from 30D.... 8MP to 15MP, 12 bit to 14 bit... about one stop higher usable ISO. And it uses the same battery, charger, memory card, even the same battery grip as your 30D. A lot of other nice little improvements: self-cleaning sensor, micro focus adjust, user changeable focus screens, more.
I can't say for certain about print size, we each have our own ideas about what's acceptible and what's not... But this was shot with 50D (EF 20/2.8 lens at f5.6, B+W C-Pol, ISO 200, 1/400 shutter speed)....
These are limited here by Internet resolutions, I realize. But I would have no problem printing above image A3 (13x19") and am sure it would hold up for A2 (approx. 16x24")... possibly even larger. In comparison, I made A3 from my 30D images, but not much larger. Or, another way of comparing... with 30D I had to keep cropping to a minimum to make a good A4, it was only the most ideal image that I could crop heavily enough to change from horizontal to vertical or vice versa. With 50D, there's a limit too, but it's nearly always possible to make at least an A4 (8.5x11") from an image where the orientation has been changed.
I don't believe 50D has Auto ISO... But I simply never use that mode, even on other cameras that I am certain do have it. IMO, it's just another kind of weird form of auto exposure, but lacks a necessary little feature called Exposure Compensation.... I have plenty of exposure modes with Av, Tv, P and M.... and those AE modes all have E.C.
Having used my 50Ds alongside more recent 7D (same 18MP sensor as 60D) and 5D Mark II, I can tell you that while the 50D would offer noticeable improvement over your 30D, the newer crop cameras are good for about one more stop high ISO (two stop vs 30D) and the FF camera is good for about two stops higher (three stop vs 30D). So, while the 50D would give you a lot more resolution as well as improved high ISO capabilities, there's still more available on even newer models, crop or full frame.
I do not have the original 5D. It lacks the self-cleaning sensor feature, and has sort of a reputation for being a "dust magnet"... And I often have to shoot under dusty conditions. So I waited for 5D Mark II, with self-cleaning sensor and more. But, I'm confident 5D would also give you at least a stop higher usable ISO, compared to 30D. Maybe two stops. Most 5D classic users claimed it was usable all the way to its maximum ISO of 3200. But I can tell you that at more "normal" ISOs my 50Ds' image quality rival 5D Mark II up to A3, maybe even A2 size prints.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Parfocal-ness of the Sony 28-135 G Lens

The lens is of course not parfocal, not optically / mechanically. The camera (or lens itself) constantly corrects the lens groups arrangement to make it "parfocal". In other words, without electronics the lens is not parfocal. This is also the reason why this lens can get by with no back focus adjustement mechanism. Something is off in the way the camera corrects it.

I noticed some focus issues with my 28-135 zoom lens as well on my FS7. I did some tests with the Canon 70-200mm L-series lens (which is definitely parfocal) and it performed just fine, so I know it isn't the camera. I sent in the 28-135 to have it repaired and Sony replaced the lens entirely. Took the brand new lens right out of the box today and it had the same issues of losing focus as you zoom out. The best way to see the shift is if you turn peaking on and line up a few objects on the z-axis. The focus should move to the closer objects as you zoom out (as long as they are not within minimum focus distance). Here's the wacky thing though - I double-checked to make sure I wasn't in auto-focus mode by switching to auto and playing around with focus there. When I switched back to manual, the lens fuctioned just fine (no shift in the focal plane when zooming). There seems to be some kind of calibration that takes place when you switch to AF, grab some focus with the push auto feature, and switch back. Or maybe I'm wrong. But as of right now, the lack of parfocal-ness no longer exists.

Send commands

Hello I need to send commands through ethernet connections,
specifing an IP address and port... similar some xTras with RS-232
protocol, but with ethernet. Are there any command or xTra?
Thank you

My apologies, it is still not clear to me exactly what you
are trying to
achieve. Can you be a bit more specific?
My experience with video projectors is limited to connecting
them to the
VGA port on a laptop to project an presentation onto a
screen. Things
like powering them on, focusing, adjusting the image, etc,
I've only
done using the buttons on the projector itself.
Is this the sort of "manage" tasks you are referring to? Does
the
projector you are referring to have some interface with a PC
that allows
you to do these thing via the computer?
lbadosa wrote:
> I need to manage devices like video projectors or
similar
>
> thanks

So many cameras so many options, need help?

So I don't know if this has been answered but I need a nice new/used DSLR camera. Im going to be using it 95% of the time for YouTube and 5% for photo. I would like it to be under $1000 but that sounds like a tough budget. I want a DSLR because all the YT channels I see that use them have the sharpest video quality I have seen. I really want a sharp image when recording. I also need a DSLR because I also need photos. Photos that are good and sharp. So for doing YouTube what would you recommend? Also how much does the lens matter?

The entire "Rebel" line are under $1000 for both a body and kit lens. Any DSLR and lens combination will generally yield fairly impressive quality compared to a non-DSLR. But each lens has a character and which lens is best depends on what you want.
Lenses capable of low focal ratios can help draw attention to your subject by using selective focus... your intended subject is tack-sharp and yet the background is deliberately blurry. Also low focal ratios lenses can naturally capture images in lower light because the lens collects more light when the shutter is open. The trade-off is that as you decrease the focal ratio, the range of distances nearer and farther from the focused distance at which subjects will appear reasonably well-focused will be narrower -- but that's what helps you create a deliberately de-focused background.
The lowest possible focal ratio is typically part of the lens name and is listed as a value of f/__._ such as f/1.8... or as a range f/__._-__._ such as f/3.5-5.6. If listed as a range, the first number is the lowest possible focal ratio available when the lens is at it's widest angle (shortest focal length) and the second number is the lowest possible focal ratio available when the lens is at it's narrowest angle (longest focal length).
The "sharpness" of the iamge is largely dictated by the lens.
Canon's newest bodies offer their new "STM" lenses which feature their stepper motor technology -- this will be of interest to you. The stepper motors focus a bit faster than their traditional motor... but are almost completely silent. Most cannot be heard by the built-in microphone on the camera when shooting video. While they are faster to focus than the traditional motors, they aren't quite as fast as Canon's USM motors (which are also extremely quiet). For better audio quality, you may want to consider a higher quality external mic -- such as one of the many Rode VideoMics available on the market.
If your goal is primarily to shoot video AND if you expect the camera to subject distance to change as you film, then you may seriously want to consider the Canon EOS 70D. This has the best video focusing system on the market. All other cameras have to perform "focus hunt" to track live video -- you can notice the camera hunting for correct focus distance when you watch a video. The 70D has a unique and new focusing system and is not only faster to determine if an image is correctly focused... if focus adjustment is needed, the 70D knows if the focus is too close or too far (it knows which way to go) AND it knows how far to adjust focus. It's quite a nice system. The price of the 70D will break your $1000 budget.
The currently marketd Rebel bodies include the T3 (the start of the entry bodies), the T3i (it was the high end Rebel almost 3 years ago) and the T5i (the current top of the Rebel line). The 70D is a mid-range body... it's just above the Rebel line.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Scrollbar doesnt adjust if printing is out of focus of JPanel

Hi all, I have added a JPanel to JScrollPane.I draw something in JPanel (for example a line). But if the line does not fit into JPanel then it is drawn out of focus area. But my scrollPane do not give me facility to see the line that is out of focus area. I am not able to explain properly.
Basically I want that by using horizontal and vertical scrollbar i am to see the graphics in the JPanel that is not shown. any sort of advice is welcome.
--reena

You have to override panel's method getPrefferedSize to reflect new size of content.
regards
Stas

Me51n - set focus

hi everyone...
i set an user exit in order to validate some fields, not in the header of the lines but in the imputation screen.
the thing is that when one of the fields doesn t pass the validation i send a message but the problem is that it doesnt goes to the corresponding screen (Eyelash) where de field is wrong. I found how to do this. but i coulnd t do to set the focus on the corresponding field.
ths for the help.

Hi Jen,
Check If that provision is there like to adjust the position of tab like badi. I think there is no provision for this exit.
Regards,
Madhu.
Edited by: madhurao123 on Jul 11, 2011 8:58 AM

Focus adjustment

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