For TCampbell

Tom sent me this a day or two ago. It is from his back door and he used a kit lens with the T4i.
"The planet Venus was a wonderful site next to the crescent Moon this evening, March 22, 2015. This is a view from my backyard. The Pleiades Star Cluster is at the top.
I my Canon T4i on a tripod and used my 18 mm - 135 mm lens set at 18 mm and f/3.5 and ISO 1600 for 10 seconds."
You can see all his terrific shots at his blog ... http://tomjmartinez.blogspot.com
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 9, Lightroom 6

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Similar Messages

Is it better to purchase additional lenses for my t2i or start fresh with the 6D?

I'm looking to get into wedding photography. Is it better to purchase additional lenses for my t2i or buy the 6D body?

I am in line with cicopo and TCampbell. And, yes, this is the most important statement, "Keep in mind YOUR skill is first and foremost."
Also, I agree, lenses before body, however, sometimes appearance is everything. Doing this for so long I think I have seen about every possible circumstance possible but it never ceases to amaze me when a new one arises.
For several years I had five XTi's that I loaned to my assistants. But a few clients I interviewed have asked what equipment I use. "You don't use Rebels do you?", was a common question. My uncle Bob or aunt Bobette can do that for free. Or the neighbor down the street from me has a Rebel.
Bottom line is, how important that first quote in this post is. You must offer your customers something they can not get for free. Make it worth their money.
One is your eye and talent. The ability to see the picture before hand. And, yes, equipment that the uncle or friend does not have.
I am retired now and don't actively seek jobs but I do a few . I use all 1 series cameras plus a 5D Mk II along with a 7D.
I generally have, at least 4 or 5 cameras at each wedding. The 5D gets a 24-70mm f2.8. One 1 series gets a 70-200mm f2.8 and these two cameras do 75% of the shooting. The 7D is on a tripod with a 100-400mm zoom on it and it sits at the back of the church (or venue). My assistants have my other 1 series (one or two) with the 24-105mm f4 on them.
Another example of what perception can sometimes be, is what happened while I was at a friends studio the other day.
A lady, new customer, came in for pricing and after a short while of looking the place over she left. On her way out she commented, “I thought you used professional equipment!” We were dumbfounded at that for there was a 5D Mk III with a EF 85mm f1.2L II USM on a tripod that was in plain sight. About the same moment we both noticed a Tamron pinch style lens cap on it. She must have seen that and assumed it wasn't a Canon lens. Some photographers will buy Tamron pinch style lens caps and use them instead of the OE Canon. But the point is just beware.
It makes a big difference if you are doing this for funesy or you are putting groceries on the table.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

Best reasonably priced macro lens for a 70d

Hi i have got a canon 70d and have just started doing alot of macro photography (Flowers bugs etc) i've been using the the 18-135mm kit lens but now i know im enjoying it im going to get a mocro lens. Cant afford nothing to major as saving for wedding and house. Was just looking for some advice on reasonably priced macro lenses. Any Advice welcome..
Thanks in advance
Darren

amfoto1 wrote:
Actually, it's hard to go wrong with macro lenses... Most give excellent image quality, so it tends to be the other features that are deciding factors. I have no idea what you consider "reasonably priced".... To one person that might be no more than $100, while to another it might be anything under $1000.
Canon EF 50/2.5 Compact Macro is currently about $270... As an EF lens, this can be used on both your crop camera and on full frame cameras. But this is a micro motor focus drive lens (slower, hunts more), and on it's own it only goes to 1:2 or one half life size magnification. To get full 1:1 magnification with it, there's a separately sold converter that costs another $270. You also could use macro exension tubes - that sell for between $70 and $200 for a set - to increase the lens' magnification. All the other macro lenses listed here are able to do 1:1 without need for any adapter. 50mm is fairly short focal length, putting you relatively close to your subject. This lens' closest focus is about 4 inches (with 1:1 adapter... compare to 12 inches with a 100mm lens). Personally I use shorter macro focal lengths mostly in-studio where they can work well.... but prefer a longer focal length in the field. Uses 52mm filters. No lens hood offered or supplied, it doesn't really need one because the front element is deeply recessed into the lens.
SIgma 50/2.8 Macro lens sells for about $350. I don't know much about this lens, it's been around for a while. I know it's 1:1 capable, both crop and full frame capable and has a micro motor focus drive. Comes with a lens hood. Uses 55mm filters.
Canon EF-S 60/2.8 USM Macro is on sale at the moment for $420. It's an EF-S lens, which will work fine on your 70D, but is not usable on a full frame camera. USM focusing drive is a bit faster, quieter and more precise (see below about focus speed). It's full 1:1 capable, a little longer focal length than 50mm, but not a lot. It's relatively compact and it is "internal focusing" or IF, which means it doesn't change length when focused. It uses 58mm filters and the matched lens hood sells separately for $24 (third party hoods are available for less).
Tamron SP 60/2.0 "Di II" Macro/Portrait lens is selling for about $525 and, like the Canon 60mm Macro, is a "crop only" lens. Fine for your 70D, but not usable on full frame cameras. It's also IF, but using a micro motor type focus drive. I've been working with one of these lately, giving it a try. I find it's focus slower than Canon USM, but generally plenty fast for most macro/portrait usage. The main attraction of this lens is its f2.0 aperture... fully a stop larger than most other macro lenses (Zeiss makes a couple f2.0 macro lenses, but they are manual focus only and quite expensive). This is nice particularly when using the lens for portraiture. It uses 55mm filters and comes with a lens hood.
Canon MP-E 65mm is not a lens I'd recommend to anyone just starting out shooting macro. This is an ultra high magnification lens... actually can do no less than 1:1 and goes as high as 5:1. That's a range well beyond what many people shoot. It's also about $1000 and stricly manual focus. It's a superb lens, usable on both crop sensor and full frame cameras, and one I use personally. But it's still not something I'd recommend to anyone just starting to shoot macro. It's rather challenging to work with, pretty much a "tripod only" lens. Comes with a tripod mounting ring, uses 58mm filters and an odd little lens hood sells separately for around $40.
Sigma 70mm f2.8 EX DG macro lens.... is another I don't know a whole lot about. Like their 50/2.8 macro, it's been around a long time and uses a micro motor type focus drive. It is the first lens in this list that has a Focus Limiter (2 ranges), which is a feature that can be helpful speeding up auto focusing. It sells for about $470, uses 62mm filters and comes with a matched lens hood.
Tamron SP 90mm f2.8 Di is another excellent design that's been around a long, long time. I've still got and use manual focus versions of this lens dating back to the 1980s. The currently available micro motor version sells for $500 and, as a Di lens is usable on both crop and full frame cameras. It's got a focus limiter (2 ranges), uses 55mm filters and includes a matching lens hood. It is not an IF lens.
Tamron SP 90mm f2.8 Di VC USD is an updated version of their venerable 90mm, now with both an improved AF system (USD is similar to Canon's USM) and image stabilization (Tamron calls it VC). It is said to be better sealed against dust and moisture, and also uses an aperture with 9 curved blades to make for smoother background blurs. This lens is Internal Focusing (IF), has a Focus Limiter (4 ranges!), was introduced within the last year or so selling for about $750, uses 58mm filters and comes with a matched lens hood.
Canon EF 100/2.8 USM is another excellent lens I use personally. This is the older version of this lens without IS (and not L-series, but you would be hard pressed to tell any difference in build quality, comparing it to some L-series such as the 180/3.5L macro). A key feature here is that it can optionally be fitted with a tripod mounting ring.... something that's not possible with most of the other lenses mentioned here. For macro work, I consider a tripod mount a very important feature, though some of the smaller lenses might be fairly usable on a tripod without one. This lens has USM focus drive, is IF, has a Focus Limiter (2 range), sells for about $550 presently, and uses 58mm filters. A matched lens hood is quite large and sells separately for about $40. Tripod Ring B to fit it sells for about $140 (there are cheaper third party hoods and tripod rings).
Canon EF 100/2.8 L IS USM is a newer model that primarily is upgraded with the addition of Image Stabilization (IS). Now designated an L, it includes a matched lens hood. Like the older model, a tripod ring can be optionally fitted. It has an improved Focus Limiter (increased to 3 ranges). It uses 62mm filters and is currently on sale for $900. Tripod Ring D sells for $172 (cheaper 3rd party ring is avail.).
Tokina 100/2.8 ATX is both crop and full frame compatible and sells for about $400. I haven't used it, but it's another venerable design that's been around for a lot of years. It has a Focus Limiter (2 range), uses 55mm filters and comes with a matched lens hood. I don't believe it's IF.
Sigma 105/2.8 OS HSM is currently on sale, heavily discounted, for about $670. I suspect Sigma is about to introduce a new version and that's why they are blowing out the current model with a large instant rebate. It is both crop sensor and full frame camera compatible. The current version has OS, which is Sigma's version of image stabilization, as well as HSM which is similar to Canon's USM focusing drive. This lens has a Focus Limiter (3 ranges), uses a 9 blade aperture, 62mm filters and comes with a matched hood. It cannot be fitted with a tripod ring.
Canon, Sigma and Tamron all offer longer macro focal lengths... 150mm and 180mm. In general I'd say those are pretty long to use on a crop sensor camera such as your 70D or my 7Ds. They all come with tripod rings, which is good because longer macro lenses can be difficult to keep steady. But they all are also considerably more expensive, so I won't go into the details about them.
Regarding auto focus speed... All macro lenses with AF are slower focusing for a couple reasons. One is that they have to move their focusing mechanisms a long, long way to go all the way from infinity to 1:1 magnification. Another is by design, they use "long throw" focus mechanisms that emphasize accuracy over speed, which is necessary because depth of field can be quite shallow at high magnifications. So, in general, don't expect a macro lens to offer the same AF speed as a non-macro lens with similar focus drive mechanism. What can help a lot are the type of focus drive and if the lens offers a Focus Limiter. Canon's USM, Sigma's HSM and Tamron's USD all will give faster focusing than micro motor drive systems on other lenses. Properly used, a Focus Limiter can really speed up focusing performance, too.
When shooting macro, auto focus speed usually isn't all that critical. In fact, I often just focus manually. Accuracy often is more important, due to the shallow depth of field. So AF perfomance might be a bigger consideration if planning to also use the lens a lot for non-macro purposes.
Image Stabilization (Canon OS, Sigma OS and Tamron VC) is offered on a few premium models. Canon's is a special hybrid version developed just for macro purposes, which most feel is a bit more effective than other forms of stabilization. Nikon actually was the first to put stabilization (they call it VR) on a macro lens, but most agree that while it's useful for non-macro shooting, it is of little practical assistance at 1:1 magnification. The Canon hybrid IS is considered to be a bit better at higher magnifications, but even it will be of limited effectiveness at 1:1. In other words, there may be times when you want to use a tripod or at least a monopod. And in those cases, particularly on some of the larger lenses, a tripod mounting ring can be a very nice thing to have (among all the above, only the Canon 100mm macro lenses can be fitted with a t'pod ring).
There are other options to "do macro", too. For example, you could simply get some Macro Extension Tubes to use with your current lens, to make it focus closer. Canon offers quality individual tubes in 25mm and 12mm lengths ($84 and $140 respectively). Kenko does too, but also offers a set of three that includes 12mm, 20mm and 36mm lengths (set sells for $200). The Kenko are very close to the Canon in design, quality and performance.
There are also less expensive sets (under $100) from Zeikos and Opteka. The Zeikos set includes 13mm, 21mm and 31mm and sell under a bunch of different brand names (Vivitar, Bower, Dot Line, ProOptic and many more). The Opteka set was just recently introduced and includes 12mm, 20mm and 36mm. All these sets are more plasticky than the Canon and Kenko tubes, but they do support autofocus and direct control of the aperture.
AFAIK, all the currently sold macro extension tubes for Canon mount are compatible with both EF and EF-S lenses. (If you were shopping used you'd have to be careful because some of the older tubes were EF only and could not be used with your EF-S 18-135mm lens).
Canon's TS-E 45mm and TS-E 90mm lenses also are usable for near-macro and, with extension tubes added, macro shooting. These are Tilt-Shift lenses that give additional control over the plane of focus which can be used to good effect with macro and shallow depth of field. I use a TS-E 45mm a lot for table top studio shots of small products. However, these are manual focus only, largely tripod-only and rather pricey lenses, so I just wanted to mention them here. They are probably not something I'd recommend for a first time macro shooter or general purpose, outdoor, walk-around macro work.
Personally, my two most-used macro lenses are a Canon EF 100/2.8 USM (the older model) and a Tamron SP 60/2.0. When I'm planning to shoot a lot of outdoor, walk-around macro shooting, the Canon lens is my first choice. However, it's rather large so when I'm not planning macro, but want to have a macro lens just in case, I'll substitute it with the much more compact Tamron lens. (Which also can replace two portrait lenses in my camera bag, so reduces my load by one lens serving in place of three.)
Another key consideration is flash. Often when shooting macro it's a challenge to get enough light to allow a stopped down lens, desirable ISO and adequately fast shutter speed. So you probably will find yourself wanting to use flash sooner or later. Canon offers two macro-specific flashes: the MR14 EX Ring Lite and the MT24EX Twin Lite. I use both for different purposes. I prefer the Twin Lite for macro shots up to about 1:1, maybe 2:1 (double life size) magnification. The Ring Lite I mostly use for very high magnification shots with the MP-E 65mm lens.
All the Canon lenses above have provision for, or can be adapted to allow for direct mounting of the two Canon macro flashes (Note: I believe there is a new "Mark II" version of the Ring Lite coming out soon). There also are adapters available to mount these flashes on non-macro Canon or onto third party lenses. It also is possible to use a single "standard" flash, along with an off-camera shoe cord and some sort of diffusion to hold back the flash, when shooting macro. I do that often with 550EX and 580EX II flashes.
There are other macro-specific accessories you may want to consider eventually. Often I'll use a diffusion panel and/or a reflector when out in full sun, to reduce too extreme contrast and help fill too-deep shadows. A focusing stage is another useful thing, when shooting macro with a tripod.
Finally, I recommend you pick up some books on macro photography. John Shaw's "Close-Ups in Nature" is perhaps the "Bible" among them and likely the most comprehensive. I also found books about macro by Tim Fitzharris and Joe & Mary MacDonald very helpful and interesting. I'm sure there are others, but those came immediately to mind.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM
Almost 2,400 words to answer a macro lens post? Alan, nobody can believe you can write so much (except TCampbell, ha ha) but you risk nobody wanting to read. See the link that follows for the sort of difficulty readers have with this sort of post, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Too_long;_didn't_read

MB5B Report table for Open and Closing stock on date wise

Hi Frds,
I am trying get values of Open and Closing stock on date wise form the Table MARD and MBEW -Material Valuation but it does not match with MB5B reports,
Could anyone suggest correct table to fetch the values Open and Closing stock on date wise for MB5B reports.
Thanks
Mohan M

Hi,
Please check the below links...
Query for Opening And Closing Stock
Inventory Opening and Closing Stock
open stock and closing stock
Kuber

Report for open and shipped qty

hi,
any standard report to show open and shipped qty by SO no.?
pls advice. thanks

Hi jojo
For list of open orders t.code is VA05
Incomplete delivery - V_UC
Reward if useful
Regards
Srinath
Edited by: sri nath on Apr 16, 2008 10:31 PM

Wrong 'mini dvi to video' adapter for my 12" Powerbook 1.33

I recently bought the M9319 mini dvi - video adapter for my 12" Powerbook 1.33 to find that the mini dvi on the adapter is a different size to the one on the computer and the adapters supplied with the computer.
I've been doing a bit of research into this and it seems a bit of a grey area. Apple have not made it clear in advertising this product that it is only suitable for the newest 12" Powerbooks and even state that it will work with a 1.33 machine in their following article:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86507
Has anyone had a similar experience, or suggest an alternative product that will work? Did Apple make an older version that works with the 1.33?
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Graeme.

Just took the adapter to my local Apple store and they identified it as a mini VGA to video adapter - not what it said on the packaging!
I've noticed a few posts with this problem, so just double check before you leave the store that the packaging matches the product.

Apple Mini-DVI to Video Adapter for eMac ?

Hi,
I use an Apple Mini DVI to VGA on my eMac to expand my monitor space, connect to an old Pinceton 15" lcd, both are on 1024 x 768 res in millions colors, and work fine.
My question is I have plan to buy an Apple Mini-DVI to Video Adapter since some of my project require a transfer process to an old vcr or Sony TRV-27 mini dv cam.
Would the adapter compatible for my eMac mini DVI port ? because eMac is not mentioned as apple compatible for this adapter at apple store, yet there is a review said it work great on ones eMac.
Anybody else using this adapter that would share with me ?
Thank you.

look like it is indeed an apple mini vga adapter that I use, and now I need an adapter that allow me to connect to a TV, VCR or Mini-DV camcorder.
will that Apple Mini-DVI to Video adapter compatible to my eMac. Or do they have mini-vga to video adapter on aapple store.
Thank you any information.

Can I purchase Creative Cloud subscriptions for longer than one year at a time?

I work in the design department of a large business, currently using Creative Suite 6 (Design Standard edition, which includes PS and AI).
I'd like to get the some of the new CC features, but my manager won't commit to a turnkey month-to-month or even annual rental of Creative Cloud apps (it's a pain for our department's purchaser to have to do orders more than once a year). That said, if they could take care of, say, two years at once, I might get the software. Is this an option? I'm one of only a few folks who use Adobe software (it's not a design business; we're just part of a small design department, and all software purchases need to go through this person, after which they're reimbursed). I'm not interested in any of the extra storage or central administration options that come with the higher priced business subscription.
Thanks!

http://www.adobe.com/au/products/creativecloud/faq.html
Are there any unique benefits that come with my paid membership?
Yes, as a member of Creative Cloud, you get many benefits that you do not get when you purchase a traditional shrinkwrapped product:
Access to both the Mac OS and Windows® versions of the desktop applications and the ability to install them on your primary computer and one backup computer. So, if you have a Mac at home and a PC at work, you can install your applications on both as long as they are not running at the same time. See the product license agreements page for more information.

Any ideas for a status or "at a glance" splash screen / presentation?

This is an idea I've been tossing around and wanted to know if there was something easy out there that would accomplish this...
I'd like to mount a monitor in one of our common areas for the management team and have it display current statuses of some of our IT features/services and maybe quick bits on what we are currently working on, major issues, etc...
I've seen some company lobbies with similar setups that display company-wide information, weather, etc.. so I know the capability is out there but I don't know squat regarding what that would entail. The easier, the better, naturally... as I don't want this to turn into an entire job position updating it, haha. But something that I could hopefully remotely update would be nice.
Any ideas? Thanks!
This topic first appeared in the Spiceworks Community

Please see the two articles below:
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3694
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3125

Looking for Daily Calendar At-a-Glance App

I'd love to find an app that will post an alert to my iPhone each morning listing out my day's calendar events. Anyone know of one? For what it's worth, I have 4 active calendars in Calendar app.

I don't know of any apps like the one you want; however, there is probably something out there that will do the job. I did want to suggest Google Calendar, which will send you email and SMS reminders about events and things you have put on your calendar. You might already be aware of this, so if you are, just disregard. I just wanted to suggest it in case you weren't aware of it. I use it all the time, and it's very handy.

Can I show a color bar instead of a color bullet in iCal Monthly view for all my events in all calendars?

In the Monthly view of iCal the only events that show a color bar in the event is the Birthday Calendar. All other events in all my other calendars only show a color bullet next to the event (unless I click on that event which then shows as a color bar). I would like to know if it is possible for all the calendar events to have a color bar in the monthly view instead of just that tiny color bullet.

Greetings Judith,
Before making any attempts at deleting calendar data, backup what you have just in case:
Click on each calendar on the left hand side of iCal one at a time highlighting it's name and then going to File Export > Export and saving the resulting calendar file to a logical location for safekeeping.
iCal has an automated function located in iCal > Preferences > Advanced > Delete events "X" days after they have passed. By typing in a value for days you can tell iCal to delete all events before that time frame.
Example:
Today is 4-16-2012.
If I wanted to delete all events prior to 1 year ago (4-16-2011) I would type in "365" for the number of days.
Once you type in the number of days you want kept in iCal, close the preferences and then quit iCal.
Re-open iCal and check to see if the events are gone. If not you may want to leave it open for several minutes and then quit again.
Once the events are removed go back to iCal > Preferences > Advanced > Delete events "X" days after they have passed and make sure the check mark is removed to prevent future deletion.
Hope that helps.

Can a family member use my iCloud storage for photos?

Hope I'm not being obtuse, but the answer to this isn't clear to me from the various "help" menus.
The situation is complicated by my living 50 miles from my elderly father.
I need about 50 GB for my photos, but have to pay for 200, of course.
So, is there a way for my Dad, who is a member of my iCloud/App/Whatever family to move HIS photo library from HIS computer to MY iCloud account without having to purchase more iCloud space for his personal account? (His photo library also - barely - exceeds the limit of the next increment of storage available so that i'll have to buy him 200GB if there isn't a way to share the storage from my iC account.
Hope this question is understandable - I don't know how else to frame it.
Thank you for all responses.

Duh! Nevermind. I think I definitely WAS being obtuse about how to share photos.

How can I create a new iCloud account for a familiy member having a new iDevice and reuse one of my aliases for it

Hi there,
I moved into iCloud from the very beginning and started with one iCloud account for me and my family, making use of email aliases for family members. Now the number of personal iDevices grows and I want to create a new and separate iCloud Account for my son. The pity is, that I reserved his full name already as alias address on my initial iCloud account. If I now delete this alias, can I create a new account with the former alias as new primary email address?
Or is there at least any transfer procedure supported for aliases between different accounts?
Thanks for your help, lauterbachj

Couldn't agree more... the folks who are getting penalized for this are the early adopters of .Mac/iCloud dating from the days when the only way to implement a "family" account was to use aliases. Now all my kids' / my wife's name aliases sit in my account, unable to move. I guess the good news is that if I delete them nobody else will get them, but this seems a pretty poor consolation.
Would it really be so difficult to implement a "move this alias to another iCloud account" option that requires the "sender" and "receiver" to exchange some sort of code to implement the transation in order to prevent fraud?

How can I Migrate/Split itunes/icloud account for a large family now that they have family sharing

Ok, now that Apple has finally come out with family sharing I need to get things sorted out and I think it is going to be a mess. I have 6 family members (my spouse and 4 children) all sharing/using one itunes account. For parental reasons this made perfect sense. Now with the the advent of family sharing and such we have alot of sorting and migrating to do and I am very unsure how to go about it. Here is what we have.
Myself - I have a 64GB iPad 3 and a 64GB iPhone 5
Spouse - 64GB iPhone 5
Children - x4 16GB iPhone 5C (pink, blue, green, and a yellow)
We have had one itunes account now for several years, we used to have x4 16GB iphone 4's and a 16GB iPod touch 4 so we needed it to be shared at the time. We all have different Game Center ID's and Facetime/iMessages are all setup to the phone numbers (aside from mine which also uses the itunes e-mail). We currently have 1 upgraded icloud account with 200GB of storage on it (love the new tiers). So here are the questions.
1) How do I go about using and isolating all the devices so they can all use the iCloud storage? Right now if I try and setup backups by device under the what to backup there is no simple "Full Backup" option, they have all the categories separated. I cannot backup my daughters contacts without forcing a merging of them and so on. Same thing with Documents and Data. Would I need to setup a different iCloud account for each device now?
2) iTunes Music/App purchases. Now that they have a family sharing function I am assuming it would be a good time to separate all the devices (aside from my personal iPad/iPhone). If I understand correctly we need to setup a new itunes account for each and link them with family sharing, does this then allow us to disperse/move items from a singular to the multiple account (at least a one time option to move around) or would it simply be shared off the original account? My daughter for example will be 18 next summer and as such no longer under our care. How do we move her items to her account? She has a lot of purchased Music. Now keep in mind I am talking about an account for someone who was 12 when she had her first device and as such needed to be under her parents.
I just want to state that repurchasing things is NOT an option, and to be frank, according to Canadian laws pertaining to *licensing* we actually own the product if we paid for it and have the right to transfer the ownership thereof. This issue went through the courts regarding used copies of OEM editions of Microsoft Windows several years ago and they closed the legal *license* vs ownership separation.

Go to appleid.apple.com to manage the ID, sign in and select to the Name, ID and Email Addresses section, then change the birth date on the bottom right. At the present time you may not be able to enter the correct birth date, but others have had success changing the year to 2000, or the date to 1/1/2001, both of which will have child ID status.

One apple ID for multiple family members

Hi,
We are new to the Iphone products. We have shared an Apple ID since christmas with my two children to help control what they are downloading etc on thier Iphones. Currently for some unknown reason when one of my children send me text message it comes accross to my phone as an email address which is what is used as our apple ID from when I originally got us set up for the ipods from years ago. since getting the Iphones this all of a sudden seams to be an issue with only one of our phones.
Any suggestions how to fix this? We deleted the icloud accounts, and have done the "soft" reimage per verizon wireless. Do we really have to set our children up with thier own email addresses and Apple ID's too?
Any suggestions would be helpful.
thank you,

To fix this go to Settings>Messages>Send & Receive and do one of the following:
1. Either uncheck the email address shown under "You can be reached by iMessage at" on both phones; or
2. If you want to continue to receive iMessages at this email address on one of your phones, on the other phone tap the Apple ID at the top, sign out, then sign back in using a different Apple ID (so both phones will be using a different Apple ID for iMessage). Note: you can continue to share an Apple ID for purchasing from the iTunes and App stores. It does not need to be the same as the ID you are using for iMessage, FaceTime and other services.
Because you are using the same Apple ID for iMessage. To prevent this, on one of the phones go to Settings>Messages>Send & Receive, tap the Apple ID, sign out, then sign in with a different Apple ID. Note: you can continue to share an Apple ID for purchasing; it does not need to be the same as the ID you use for iMessage, FaceTime, iCloud and other services.
Also, to prevent merging your calendars and contacts if you are syncing these to the same iCloud account, be sure to set up separate iCloud accounts on each phone with separated IDs.

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