For those thinking of an SSD for your older MacBook Pro....
...I just bit the bullet and am thrilled! I have a late 2008 15" MBP (5,1). I bought 4GB ram from OWC (www.otherworldcomputing.com) for $35 (!!) and a 240GB SSD. The installation of the RAM was simple (you need the right screwdriver -- I picked up a cheap tool kit there as well). Since I have Lion, I downloaded the Lion Recovery Assistant and put it on a flash drive. After the RAM was recognized, I rebooted to the flash drive (holding down the "option" key) and the recovery drive appeared. Clicked on it and got a menu. First, I chose disk utilities to format the SSD, then exited back to the menu. Then, I chose to restore from a time machine backup. 3 hours later, I was in business.
The machine boots in about 30 seconds. Apps open instantly - one dock bounce. Launchpad is smooth. The unit does not get flaming hot anymore, just a bit warm. Battery life is improved (with an old battery, too).
I did this a few months ago on my 2007 MacPro (I bought the small SSD because I only use it as a boot drive -- my data resides on a separate HDD in the second bay, with back-up drives in bays 2 and 4).
Yes, the price of SSDs is still high, but I breathed new life into my MBP and have no regrets! Feels like a new machine!
Any questions about my experience, let me know...just thought I'd share because I know lots of folks are considering the move to SSD.
Adrian - I have one from OWC (otherworldcomputing.com). I also have one in my 2007 MacPro as the boot drive. Very, very happy with the performance (in fact, my MBP only gets warm...not incredibly hot). They have a compatibility guide and install videos. I also bought 4GB RAM (along with the correct screwdriver), which helps. The only downside is size and cost. I put a 240GB drive in because I don't keep that much on my MBP. If you need a larger drive, the cost goes up considerably. Lion is humming along, very fast and smooth. No regrets. If your drive is doing fine, you may want to leave well-enough alone. If you feel it's sluggish, the SSD and additional RAM may do the trick....
I read today that Samsung is coming out with some, but no ETA or prices quoted. OWC is a great company with purchase from, based on my experiences...
Similar Messages
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Well i was just wondering.. since i do have a older version of the Macbook Pro.. and the fact that the power cord has been damaged
You can always get a price on what an Apple affiliate would give you for your old MacBook Pro by going to http://www.apple.com/recycling/gift-card/faq.html and reading the instruction for the reuse program. Or you can sell your old one on eBay (that's what I did - you'll get more for it). Apple doesn't do a simple trade-in.
Your cheapest route is just to buy a new adapter. If you don't know which adapter to get, call Apple and they can tell you, or visit your local Apple Store. They're about $80.
Good luck,
Clinton -
Hi. I am preparing for CA Bar Exam. I am considering buying MacBook Pro for exam writing. One is 13 inch 1499 dollar 2.5 GHz 8GB, the other is 15 inch MacBook Pro 2.7 GHz 2799 dollar 16 GB. Both are retina. Which one is better for me?
I will use Barclays Card for 18 month free interest.
I wil ask Apple clerk to avoid LG monitor.
I will buy those in Apple store.
Which one will you recommend?Tha's something you need to decide for yourself.
Do you think you need 16GB of memory or 8 will be enough?
Do you need to carry your macbook around with you more often? if so just get the 13" it's easier to carry.
Or maybe you enjoy watching media on a bigger screen?
As for word processing it shouldn't be a problem on both notebooks.
Also can you afford buying the 15"?
And what about the hard drive capacity?
So my advice is to consider these aspects, make a list of pros and cons and see what you come up with -
Due to a problem with my older MacBook Pro I had to wipe it clean. Now I no longer have iPhoto or iMovie , will I have to pay for those programs ? If so, are there any older versions available I can download for free.
a brandnew Mac (=aka after a clean isntall), should be registered with an AppleID.
Then, you're entitled to download the pre-installed apps for free from AppStore, just log-in with that Apple-ID...- -
I have an email account causes the machine to hang up after being in use for a day. It only occurs on my Macbook Pro and only one particular account. The problem account works fine on my iMac and Windows Machines. I have been to the local Genius bar and through trial and error we have determined that Mail is working ok but somehow the account is causing the problem. I have used this account for years. Any ideas what is causing this?
No idea why, but one thing you may try if you have the time, is create a new user, and set up the problem mail account in the new user space. See if it causes your MBP to hang as well. That will tell you if it is something wrong with your main User, or something wrong with MBP.
Assuming this works, I'd nuke the problem account in your main user space, re-start, and reinititate the account and see if that helps.
Depening on how many email accounts you have setup, it may be necessary to nuke the whole Mail folder in your User/Library.... Hard way to get it to work, but just my idea. -
Is possible for me to use the wireless connection from my Macbook Pro
Hi All, I just got my iPad 16GB WIFI and I would like to know if it is possible for me to use the wireless connection from my Macbook Pro. Basically I will be travelling quite a bit and my Macbook Pro has a Wireless 3G dongle. Is it possble to use this via the 'internet share' option so that the iPad can connect to the 3G wireless via the Macbook Pro?
Yes. Just use internet sharing on your MacBook Pro.
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I've buy a new Air Book for may self :-) and I want to offer my Macbook pro to my sun. I really want to know what should I do to clean all my information in the my old computer?
Backup your data off the machine to a external drive (not TimeMachine) and disconnect.
Create another Admin account in System Preferences and log into it, delete your Admin Account and reboot.
Optional: Open Disk Utility and Erase Free Space (Zero good enough, 7x for military level, both take time)
This should be good enough to remove just your account and data without the hassle of reinstalling the OS and all new programs again.
However if you need that level, then c boot off the 10.6 disk (or command r boot on Lion) and use Disk Utility there to Zero or 7x erase the OSX drive/partition, quit and reinstall OS X. Much more work that likely is unnecessary in your case.
Good Luck. -
Is there a way for me to use airplay on my mid 2010 MacBook Pro ?
Is there a way for me to use airplay on my mid 2010 MacBook Pro ?
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht5404
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Went through this step-by-step, but alas it did not solve the problem. For some reason I can download mail on my Macbook Pro and iPhone, but no my iMac. Connection Doctor shows all green lights. This started today when I was prompted to re-enter incoming mail server passwords. I re-entered passowrds yet again to make sure they were correct. Rebuilt the inBox. Connection Doctor continues to show all green lights, but am still unable to download mail to the inbox. Has anyone else ever run into this problem?
I have the exact same problem trying to use the Remote app on both my iPhone 3gs and iPad 2 with either my Mac or ATV2. My Remote app used to work on my phone - I can't recall if I ever actually used it with my iPad, but when I tried today, I got all the same results as you did (on both iPad, and then iPhone). I was using my ATV2 to play music from iTunes on my Mac and wanted to use the Remote app, but it would not connect to either device no matter what I did.
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Hi, I want to use my number for iMessage on my iPhone only and on my macbook pro use my apple id/email and not my number, how do i do that? before i updated my phone thats what it was like but now that ive updated i dont know how to change it. Also how do i stop the iMessages on my mac appearing on my phone. can you please help. Thanks
I tried that but on my iphone i can only click on my email and my number is checked but its in grey doesnt allow me click on it and on my Mac, its the opposite, my email is checked but in grey so doesnt allow me to click on it. im realy confused
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Can the apple external disc drive that I just got for my air also work with my late 2007 macbook pro? The internal disc drive broke after apple care expired, natch.
No, sorry. it won't work with the 2007 MBP. You can replace the optical drive yourself - just go shopping at OWC.
Good luck,
Clinton -
I use an older Macbook Pro from 2007 with OS X 10.7 – had issues with Mavericks, so I uninstalled it. I want to get a trial version of AE CS6 but I need to know the specs for it.
System requirements | After Effects
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How do I switch users on wifi sync for example my Mac has two users one apples MacBook pro the other is my name I want to switch from apples MacBook pro to my name how is this done?
Try connecting the iPad to the computer that you do not want to WiFi sync with and uncheck the WiFi sync option in iTunes. Then click on Apply. Reboot the iPad and see if that does the trick.
Reboot the iPad by holding down on the sleep and home buttons at the same time for about 10-15 seconds until the Apple Logo appears - ignore the red slider - let go of the buttons. -
Installing SSD on Mid 2012 Macbook Pro
Hi I'm installing an SSD on a 15" Macbook Pro (Mid 2012) model this weekend. I just had a few questions to run by people who have done the same thing. First I've noticed in the how-to videos I've watched that there are two main ways to format the drive: 1.) Erase the drive in disk utility, or 2.) Partition it. Is there a difference, and if so is one better?
My second question is once I take the back of the computer off is it necessary to disconnect the batter? Again I've seen several how to videos, and this seems to vary.
Finally, I've noted that anything I've read says to ground yourself by touching the case of the computer. Is this referring to the back portion that I removed or the main body of the computer?
I would also like to note that I'm running the latest version of Yosemite, I have a time capsule with my backups on it as well as a separate internal drive, and I also plan on using SuperDuper to clone my HD. Thanks in advance for all of the input.Foofighter62091 wrote:
there are two main ways to format the drive: 1.) Erase the drive in disk utility, or 2.) Partition it. Is there a difference, and if so is one better?
Those are potentially three different terms there:
"Erase" just means delete the disk directory file so that even though there might still be millions of files on the drive, there is no longer any record of where they are. Using the drive will gradually write new files over the old ones.
"Partition" means to divide the drive into multiple volumes. Each volume can be mounted or dismounted separately as if it was a separate drive, even though there's just one real drive. Partitioning used to require erasing the whole drive, but now you can at least adjust partition sizes without erasing at all.
"Format" can mean Erase, but there is also a "low-level format" that remaps the entire drive, blocking off bad sectors and optionally writing over old data so it can't be read. That would go well beyond a typical Erase.
Now, what you want to do with any new drive for your Mac is to select it in Disk Utility and make sure it has been formatted as Mac OS Extended (Journaled). If it's formatted as anything that does not start with Mac OS (like Fat32), you need to format it as Mac OS X Extended (Journaled). From there, you can partition it if you want, but it is best not to partition unless you have a specific need to.
Foofighter62091 wrote:
My second question is once I take the back of the computer off is it necessary to disconnect the batter?
I have never disconnected the battery when replacing the drive in current MacBook Pros, but I guess if you do it might be safer. In old models where the battery was removable, I did take it out then.
Foofighter62091 wrote:
Finally, I've noted that anything I've read says to ground yourself by touching the case of the computer. Is this referring to the back portion that I removed or the main body of the computer?
You need to ground yourself in the electrical sense. That means some part of your body should touch some part of the computer that is metal and leads to the ground, to dissipate any static charges. The best way is to use a grounding strap that is connected to a grounded metal fitting in the room like a pipe. I touch the metal part of the power cord (the end you plug into the laptop). I believe touching the computer case has no effect if the case is not grounded (like a desktop plugged into the wall) because the static has nowhere to go, but someone with more electrical knowledge should clarify that.
However you ground yourself, during the operation you should stay in one place like your chair and avoid shuffling your feet, especially on carpet. Once I'm handling components I will not walk across the room until I put down the component, and when I come back I won't pick up the component again until I first touch a ground. -
i think i have a virus on my Macbook Pro, OS X Yosemite, how do i wipe my computer clean without erasing photos and music etc?
The update alerts are fake, and are intended to dupe you into installing malware or disclosing private information so that your identity can be stolen.
You might get the alerts when visiting a website that has been hacked. Don't visit the site again. If applicable, notify the site administrator of the problem, but don't send email to an unknown party.
If you get the alerts when visiting more than one well-known website, such as Google, YouTube, or Facebook, then they may be the result of an attack on your router that has caused you to get false results from looking up the addresses of Internet servers. Requests sent to those sites are redirected to a server controlled by the attacker. It's possible, but less likely, that the DNS server used by your ISP has been attacked.
Back up all data.
Unlock the Network preference pane, if necessary, by clicking the lock icon in the lower left corner and entering your password. Cllck Advanced, open the DNS tab, and change the server addresses to the following:
8.8.8.8
8.8.4.4
That's Google DNS. Click OK, then Apply.
In Safari, select
Safari ▹ Preferences... ▹ Privacy ▹ Remove All Website Data
and confirm. If you’re using another browser, empty the cache. Test. If the fake update alerts stop, see below. Otherwise, ask for instructions.
The router's documentation should tell you how to reset it to the factory default state. Usually there's a pinhole switch somewhere in the back. It may be labeled "RESET." Insert the end of a straightened paper clip or a similar tool and press the button inside for perhaps 15 seconds, or as long as the instructions specify.
After resetting the router, quit the web browser and relaunch it while holding down the shift key. From the Safari menu bar, select
Safari ▹ Preferences... ▹ Privacy ▹ Remove All Website Data
and confirm. Do the equivalent if you use another browser. Open the Downloads folder and delete anything you don't recognize.
Then go through the router's initial setup procedure. I can't be specific, because it's different for every model. The key points are these:
1. Don't allow the router to be administered from the WAN (Internet) port, if it has that option. Most do.
2. Set a strong password to protect the router's settings: at least ten random upper- and lower-case letters and digits. Don't use the default password or any other that could be guessed. Save the password in your keychain. Any password that you can remember is weak.
3. If the router is wireless, or if you have a wireless access point on the network, use "WPA 2 Personal" security and set a different strong password to protect the network. If the router or access point doesn't support WPA 2, it's obsolete and must be replaced.
During the time the router was compromised, you were redirected to bogus websites. If you ever connected to a secure site and got a warning from your browser that the identity of the server could not be verified, and you dismissed that warning in order to log in, assume that your credentials for the site have been stolen and that the attacker has control of the account. This warning also applies to all websites on which you saw the fake update alerts.
Check the router manufacturer's website for a firmware update.
If you downloaded and installed what you thought was a software update, ask for instructions.
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