For those with 3G...

How often do you find yourself connecting to the service and when? ie on train, at friends house? Im trying to decide whether its worth it to buy the 4G model considering the number of wifi hot spots available these days.

luvlvnlyfe5 wrote:
Thanks I think I will just get the 4G. My phone can be used as a hotspot if necessary. And I have my cell if there is something that I need to get online for and can't because no hotspot available. Can't wait till it gets here so excited!!!!
If you're unsure and you do have the cash, this is the best route. If you end up not using it much or at all, the only thing that you've lost is the cost differential and that's soon forgotten.

Similar Messages

Hi - I created a form in Adobe Livecycle and have a button on it to send the form via email. t worked, but only for those with PC. I could not get it to work with Apple Yosemite even with reader installed . is there a way i can make it work for apple /

Hi - I created a form in Adobe Livecycle and have a button on it to send the form via email. It worked, but only for those with PC. However, I could not get it to work with Apple loaded with Yosemite even with reader installed . Is there a way i can make it work for apple / Mac? It worked fine on a mac using Mountain Lion and reader
Thanks

LiveCycle = XFA forms.
afaik - These cannot be used in Apple OSs.
Be well...

How do I send my pages attachment so that it will open for those with Microsoft word?

How do I send my pages attachment so that it will open for those with Microsoft Word?

Hi Victoria,
Pages does not run on Windows.
Word cannot open a Pages file.
If you want someone without pages to be able to open your attachment, you will have to send it in a format openable on the recipient's computer.
If the recipient needs only to read the document, the most universal format is pdf. To send a pdf copy of your file, press command-P to open the Print dialogue, then click the PDF button and choose email PDF. This will open a new message in your default email client and attach the pdf file to that message.
If the recipient needs to be able to edit/change your document, and has MS Word, then either Save a copy as a Word file or go File > Export and choose Word as the file format for the export.
Be aware that MS Word does not support all features of Pages (and vice versa), and that formatting of the document may be affected by font substitution if you use fonts that are not available on the recipient's machine.
Regards,
Barry

Is the i phone any good for those with essential tremour

is the i phone any good for those with essential tremour

Hi auchenshugglegranny,
Welcome to the Support Communities!
The iPhone has a number of accessibility features that may be helpful to you, including Siri, which will accept voice commands. The article below will provide an overview for you.
Apple - Accessibility
http://www.apple.com/accessibility/
Below is a list of features included in the iPhone User Guide:
Accessibility features - iPhone
http://help.apple.com/iphone/7/#/iph3e2e4367
VoiceOver
Support for braille displays
Siri
Zoom
Invert Colors
Speak Selection
Speak Auto-text
Large, bold, and high-contrast text
Reduce onscreen motion
On/off switch labels
Hearing aids
Subtitles and closed captions
LED Flash for Alerts
Mono audio and balance
Call audio routing
Assignable ringtones and vibrations
Phone noise cancellation
Guided Access
Switch Control
AssistiveTouch
Widescreen keyboards
Turn on accessibility features. Go to Settings > General > Accessibility, or use the Accessibility Shortcut. See Accessibility Shortcut.
Use iTunes to configure accessibility. You can choose some accessibility options in iTunes on your computer. Connect iPhone to your computer and select iPhone in the iTunes device list. Click Summary, then click Configure Accessibility at the bottom of the Summary screen.
Hope this information helps ...
Happy Holidays!
Judy

For those with battery drain / wifi issues

Many of you have found a temp fix related to exchange email accounts, this is not for you and I'm glad you have found something that seems to be working.
For those of you with battery oddities, something new to try...
See what security protocol your wireless router is using...is it WEP, WPA, WPA2, etc.
If you are using WEP, try changing to WPA/WPA2 and re-associate your iPhone with your wireless network.
IMPORTANT: Changing this setting on your router will disconnect all of your wireless network devices so only try this if you've tried everything else to this point and your phone is still acting up.
I've spent more hours troubleshooting over the last couple weeks than I care to admit. I noticed that both my routers at the office and at home were still configured using WEP protocol (older/insecure standard). I reconfigured my office network this morning with WPA and updated the configuration on my phone.
Well....................since doing this my 3GS is acting normal again (normal standby drain, not warm, wifi status bar icon not staying on constantly, etc.). So far NOTHING else has worked for me - restore as new, toggling various settings on/off, evaluating certain apps, reset settings/warnings on phone and in iTunes.
I'm curious to know if it makes a difference for any of you as this issue is certainly 'outside' of the phone itself but would make sense as some incremental firmware releases in the past have caused issues when connecting to different wireless networks.
Please report back if you try and after you've had a fair amount of time to evaluate. May just be another shot in the dark but so far it's peaked my curiosity.
Nathan

Thanks once again for your post nateinva. Ultimately it was your suggestion that got me going on the right track, but I had one additional variable...
So, after reading your post I did switch my router to WPA2 (which also necessitated reconfiguring all of my wireless devices) and then once again began testing my phone battery life. Alas, it was the same. It would drain inordinately at home on wifi, but otherwise was normal. Next I read something about router firmware, and indeed mine was a bit outdated, so I updated that to the latest version. Voila, now my battery performs as I would hope. I have several mail accounts, an exchange account and a bunch of other stuff going on. I do have push notification turned off. I now lose about 1% per hour which I find totally acceptable.
Many thanks for the helpful post.

Simple Apps for those with mild dementia / Alzheimer's?

Hi,
I've been looking for some apps suitable for my dad who has dementia. He's quite young, and the only resources I can find regarding iPads and those with dementia are aimed at elderly people in the later stages of the disease. We've bought him an iPad as it's much easier for him to use than a laptop, and so far he is enjoying it and can use it himself fine.
Apps that he particularly likes are Fotopedia and 123D Sculpt (although this is a bit complex for him) so anything along the lines of photography, pictures, drawing etc would be appreciated, as long as it's very easy to use - I've looked into getting Brushes but am worried it will be too hard. He also browses eBay and Amazon etc, and iPlayer. When it comes to skill level, it needs to be something with really basic controls, not too many fiddly details and design options.
Any suggestions are welcome as I'm really struggling to find anything relevant or helpful online.
Thanks!

Mom has been living with me for a month now, with dimentia. She has ceased to do activities that were dear to her, reading, watching tv, or crossword puzzles. I downloaded a children's crossword puzzle on my ipad and showed her how to use the app. She was confused, but kinda got the idea of it. Confusing words was normal for her. But the first time at it, she spent two hours and kept saying this is a great game. Before going to bed she asked if she can play again tomorrow. I guess we have to go forward in baby steps, and I feel that the ipad was a great leap forward for Mom. I'm going to look tonight for other areas of the ipad that can benefit hr. I told her it was her physical therapy for her memory. I remember my Dad telling me - if you don't use it, you lose it.

Firefox Mobile available for those with no Android Market

Seems the article [http://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/install-firefox-mobile#os=android&browser=m6 "How do I install Firefox on a mobile device?" ] requires Android Market.
FYI: "Android Market" is only available with Google's GMS (Google Mobile Services) kit, and only for those devices Google has had the opportunity to approve. In addition there are limitations from which countries developers are allowed to publish and sell applications via Android Market.
Android being Open Source, is probably used on just as many non-certified by Google devices.
There are reputable alternative Marketplaces that power such devices ranging from tablets, Android TV's, E-book readers, etc that come preloaded (or for users download) such as the [http://slideme.org/sam "SlideME Market (SAM)" ]. Any reason, (beyond the effort it takes to stock the apk onto other stores) why Firefox Mobile for Android could not be on such stores, including Amazon Appstore (another reputable, but limited to US only)?

Firefox makes use of a lot of the features that the Android market has such as access to select devices (only ARMv7 + 512mb RAM), provides updates, and collecting Java crash data. If someone has a device that meets the minimum specs and wants to deal with updating Firefox themselves Firefox mobile can be found on the ftp.
Due to the above reasons and others I'm forgetting 3rd party markets are not a high priority.

Question for those with memory issues on k8n neo plat

I have been having issues with my memory on the k8n neo platinum board since i built the system last month and i just recently discovered a fact I had overlooked.
I Have discovered that if i test the system while it is cool (having sat turned off overnight for example), then memtest will pass the ram just fine and the system will be stable for a short period of time, generally longer if no intensive applications are used, ie. doom3 vs. websurfing).
This system, once it heats up ( seems mostly to be the nvidia 3 nb that needs to be "hot"- that is, a probe placed in contact with the module reaches about 58+ degrees c) then the system becomes unstable and memtest, if used, fails.
Prime95, if used on it when its cool, will usually take about an hour or so to fail, but if its used on the system when its been running a bit ( temps from nb at 58c+ and memory module hot to the touch) then it fails after about 20-30 seconds.
I have placed an active hs on the nb in an attempt to correct this, but temps still remain high with failures occuring.
I have spent the better part of three days testing the sytem this way and the above facts have held true in all these tests.
I have tested at stock ratings ( not using "auto" in bios, but using "approved ratings" of 10 x 200 for fsb and timings of 2-3-3-7 for my ram at 1:1 (which is recommended as well) since i am testing for base stability at this point;Voltages have been left at auto settings, however.
I was wondering if anyone else with memory issues could try this out and post if this seems to be the case for you as well.
Perhaps the memory issues on these boards are directly related to a problem with the nvidia 3 chipset running too hot?
Does anyone have a memory issue with these boards who is using water cooling on the NB ?
Lack of issues from people using 'problem" memory, but having no failures with water cooled nb's would support my assumption.

Yes i did mean chipset.
I am using a stock hs/fan from amd, which seems to run a tad hot but, considering that I wont overclock until I can get board stable, its not an issue. (runs 35-40 idle and up to 72 intensive). I need the warranty more then the extra mhz at present.
I removed the stock heatsink from the nvidia chipset and bought a generic chipset cooler (green, very little in the way of fins and seems to be aluminum) with a small fan.
I used a generic silver paste from Compusa to adhere both the cpu hs and the chipset.
I didnt lap either hs, just installed each as per instructions on artic silvers website (figured it had to go on the same way even generic).
I also bought a kingwin thermal center which i ran probes from to the cpu, case, and nb chipset.
I am not using it to adjust fans so those arent connected - its just a reference temp I can see at a glance, esp considering the funky bios reading this boards been known to give.
I assume from these responces that even a nvidia 3 250 chipset shouldnt get as hot as mine?
I asked about that from the retailer i bought this from but he seemed to think it was "ok" at 50ish celcius, but then again he didnt look too confident when he said it, lol.
Idle right now reads on Corecenter at 28 celcius for cpu and 33 celcius for the chipset, although, I have readings of 37 c and 43 c from the kingwin thermal center, which i believe to be more accurate.
My voltage reads at 11.67 for the 12v line at idle right now.
The psu i got is stick from the xblade case i bought in store. (http://www.xoxide.com/xblade2.html)
I have a dvd burner, cd drive, and two maxtor ide hd's attached to the system;The only card is the agp.
Is there a way to check and see if the cpu ispower starved? software monitor or even an external probe perhaps?
I havent put a probe on it, but the ram came in its own heatspreader, which gets very hot to the touch as well.
What temps should I be looking for on these items?

A tip for those with a fully depleted batt

I just thought I'd post my experience, maybe it will help someone. I have a Zen V that I left sitting for a while and the battery was completely dead. As you've probably seen in other postings and in the knowledge base, the Zens have trouble recovering from this state. The symptoms for my Zen were: 1)plug in USB, 2)Blue LEDs behind play would light briefly, 3) "Low Battery" screen would flash just long enough to see it, 3)the screen would go black, LEDs off, no charging icon. I left it connected like this for about 8 hours and it never accepted a charge.
I believe this is primarily due to the fact that when you plug your Zen into a USB port, the first thing it tries to do is dock, which uses what little power might be left in the battery. Contrary to the information in the knowledge base, my Zen would not take a charge regardless of how long I left it connected like this. I guess it gets stuck in a weird state and never makes it to the "accept charge" state.
So, how to solve this The key is to connect it to a charging device that does not try to perform the dock operation. You have several options here. If you have a wall/travel charger, that would probably be easiest. What I did was use another (Linux) PC that did not have the Zen driver on it. As soon as i plugged it in, it began charging, and after about an hour it had enough charge to dock with my normal Windows PC. If you don't have either of those two options, I suspect that just booting your PC to Dos/Command Line would probably work because I doubt that the Zen driver would get loaded (I haven't tried this). Basically any way you can get your PC to power the USB ports without loading the Zen driver (uninstall maybe ) should do the trick.
I hope that all made sense and that it helps someone out there. I was about ready to send mine in for repair, but this saved me the trouble.

Excellent tip, shoeless!I had such problem with my Zen Vision M: 60 GB. I solved leaving it into the usb plug for many time. Maybe my laptop went in a standby mode and the player didn't try to dock, but it was enough to charge a bit the Zen, and after fully charged.

Is there a way to run firefox at a higher frame rate for those with monitors capable of 120hz?

I noticed that IE is smooth as silk when browsing websites compared to firefox. Is there an add-on or a setting I can change so that I can take advantage of my monitor which runs at 120hz?

ksinks wrote:
Thanks, how would you synchronize the loops? I have gone through the Getting Started exercises and manual.
Why would synchronization matter? Did you want them to run independantly at their own speed or not?
Regardless, there's a synchronization pallette with functions for this, as Occurance.
Other solutions include a common loop counter and a case structure executing every X'th iteration, or having the faster loop send a queue or event every X'th loop that controls the slower loop.
/Y
LabVIEW 8.2 - 2014
"Only dead fish swim downstream" - "My life for Kudos!" - "Dumb people repeat old mistakes - smart ones create new ones."
G# - Free award winning reference based OOP for LV

A suggestion for those with battery issues:

When I first got my iPhone, I had the same battery issues many people here are talking about, in fact I posted about it myself. Its fixed. Very fixed, and Im very happy with my battery life. Here is what I did.
First, do not charge it using your USB connection. At least not always. Why? I dont know. I did the first few days, and couldnt get a full charge even tho system wasnt going to sleep. I started using the wall charger, and got longer battery life, but still not great. One night, I forwarded the phone to my home phone in case I got a call, and shut the phone down completely, and put it on charge. In the morning, I woke up to a 100% charged, fully glowing battery icon. The battery lasted all day with no issues. Every night after that, I just charged it on the wall charger, but did NOT shut it down to see what happened. I am still waking up every morning to a 100% fully charged battery. The battery life seems to get better daily now.
Today, I ran wifi for about 5 hours because I forgot to shut it off. This was after going to the pool and listening to the iPod on the phone for about 2 hours. And using the phone normally throughout the day, checking mail, sms, etc. Really a full day of work, and my battery is still over 50% full. I purposely didnt connect it to anything during the day for a recharge, not the USB or wall charger.
Good luck, hope this helps. Id be interested to know if it does.

Here's my non-scientific experiment.
After surprising battery drain for the first 10 days or so with not much usage, I completely drained the battery yesterday until the phone shut off.
I plugged into AC charge and was worried when it didn't seem to even begin charging.
I plugged into USB, assuming it needed to charge enough to at least complete a sync.
I left it on USB until about 5-10% charge, then switched it to AC. At about 50% I needed to use it, so I did but sparingly, and put it back on charge, all the while keeping Mail on manual and WiFi off.
I took it off once more to get it home from the office, then plugged into AC.
I left that charging overnight.
I never actually got the "glow", but did get the plug icon showing full charge in the status bar.
After about 2 1/2 hours this morning, the status has not moved off of 100% (but with little usage as before).
This is definitely an improvement already though. Hope this helps.

A suggestion for those with freezing dual-core 2.3 G5s (and maybe others)

I'm on my second dual-core 2.3 that's showing the random instability that many others are describing on the boards. To summarize:
- The kernel panic screen usually (but not always) appears.
- Within 10-20 seconds of the crash, fans come on full bore.
- Nothing of substance is recorded in the logs (at least not that I've found).
- Problem occurs with stock RAM as well as 3rd party modules.
- Crashes usually occur soon after a period of steady processor activity (playing large QuickTime movies, transferring files over the network, etc.)
- Problem exists under both 10.4.3 and 10.4.4.
- Apple's hardware test reports everything's fine.
- I've never been able to keep the machines up for longer than 3 days.
So I decided to give something a try that I happened to see in one of the many posts on the topic. In the Energy Saver pane, I've set Processor Performance from Automatic to Highest. And guess what? I've been doing all the same stuff I've always done, and haven't crashed for 6 days!
Just curious if others with similar symptoms have success with this...
Troy

Troy:
I've been using my PM dual core 2.3 GHz hard since November with nary a problem. I usually keep the Energy option at Automatic, unless I'm going to be running heavy-CPU database processes, when I set the CPU to Highest.
And I do watch movies fairly often on the 2.3.
I always use Software Update for OS and Security updates. I've been updating my Macs for years this way, and haven't seen a kernel panic since OS X 1.0. Permissions repair is always run before and after updates.
Cocktail and DiskWarrior are run periodically for maintenance. I probably run Cocktail every week or so, and DiskWarrior every few weeks just as preventive measures.
Knock on wood, this has been a very stable computer.

Fix for those with FFXIV ARR throttle problrms

FIXED IT
I have fixed my BT throttle problem by simply forwarding the ports in the router
please see the following guide for what to do (it's very easy)
http://portforward.com/english/appli...l_Fantasy_XIV/
http://portforward.com/english/appli...asy_XIV/BT.htm
http://portforward.com/english/route...antasy_XIV.htm
This will work if you do it correctly (don't mess up the TCP/UDP, and forward all ports)
I hope it works for you guys, it did for me

You should always have the best service available, JDMClark! Which phone do you have? When exactly did you notice these slower speeds? What location are you in? (zip code) For now, please try powering off and removing SIM card for about a minute, then put back in and restart phone. You can also try clearing device memory, (cache). Once we get your phone details, we can provide you with step-by-step instructions to troubleshoot.
Thank you,
VanessaS_VZW
Follow us on Twitter @VZWSupport
If my response answered your question please click the "Correct Answer" button under my response. This ensures others can benefit from our conversation. Thanks in advance for your help with this!!

For those with pixel rendering issues and slowness issues

For anyone who doesnt know these little details when designing in Catalyst, I thought I would share and hopefully ease some peoples frustrations. Lets kick off with pixel issues.
You have either vector, raster, or components that are either: not aligning with everything else around it, even though it has the same X/Y value, the rounded corners of a rectangle vector object are distorted, or anything else you have experienced with pixel distortion or pixels just not lining up properly. Here is the issue. When you drag and drop an object from the library, wireframe components, or draw a new shape, it can have a decimal level pixel value. It does not say this in the property inspector though. So you may have a rectangle at a listed X/Y of 10,15 but it could actually be 10.3, 14.9. To fix this you have to type in a new value of at least 1 number higher or lower. Deleting the value and typing the same number in doesnt do anything. Neither does moving it with the arrow keys in hopes of it moving it to a whole pixel value. The arrow keys move by 1 pixel (or 10 if holding down shift). This should take care of most of your problems.
Now you may still have problems with the corners of rounded rectangles if you converted it to an Optimized Vector Graphics. For you Flash Pro users, from what I can tell, using "Optimize Vector Graphics" is basically the same as (in Flash) converting a vector shape into a MovieClip and in the property inspector, checking the "Cache as Bitmap" box. That option has Flash create a bitmap version of the vector shape so that it will not be re-drawn every frame, which is what the Flash player does with vector objects. So because it is converting your vector into raster, it kinda has issues with rounded corners when you have a stroke on the shape and pretty much only if you have a stroke. If you take the stroke off, and use Optimize Vector Graphics, you shouldn't have that problem anymore. But what if you needed that stroke? Simple, duplicate that shape, change its fill color to what you want the "stroke" color to be, increase its size by 2 pixels on the width and height for every number of thickness that you wanted with the stroke, and then set the X/Y of the "stroke" rectangle to a pixels less for whatever the "thickness" of your stroke is.
Example:
Rectangle - width:20, height:10, desired stroke thickness:2, X:10, Y:10
Rectangle Stroke - width: 24, height:14, X:8, Y:8
Rectangle - width:100, height:30, desired stroke thickness:1, X:15, Y:27
Rectangle Stroke - width:102, height:32, X:14, Y:26
It wont look perfect but its pretty close if you do this and then draw a rectangle beside it with a real stroke. And if you still want to use Optimize Vector Graphics on it, just group the two rectangles together and then use Optimize on the group and no more distorted corners. This also applies to vector shapes in Flash Pro.
Lastly to talk about the slowness of Catalyst. You may or may not have read the posts from Adobe employees, but I can tell you that having fewer states helps with the responsiveness of it, but so does using the Optimize Vector Graphics as much as possible. I am working in a large scale project, and just from me converting all my vector background shapes, which was around 13 used across 6 main states, it helped significantly with Catalyst being more responsive for me.
Hoped this long post helped some people with any similar issues you might be having.

I noticed with my Charge phone that when I get a call the FIRST ring is highly muted (quite soft) and then all rings after that are full volume.
I wish that even the first ring was load (full volume) but I accept the fact that that is how GB 2.3.6 works. Anyone know how to change this?
Ya can't win 'em all.
JerryF

For those with RSD: what is your Problem Description?

I just got the box by DHL to send my MacBook with RSD to Memphis. On the other side of the shipping label is:
Problem Description: No Power/No Light.
This obviously doesn't describe the problem. So, others with RSD that are sending your MacBooks to Memphis: what does your Problem Description say?
I found an old post (http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2889831&#2889831) about this but that was made before this problem became widespread like it is now.

BOTH BOXES I've received in the last two months (one each for the TWO TIMES I've sent my MB in, once for RSD, second time cause it died completely with 15 minutes of getting it back from the RSD repair) said "No Power/No Light," but through my discussions (many) with AppleCare, they are aware of the actual problem.

For those with dead tx laptops , that shows no video or dont detectd wifi

I have stared a petition about the dead tx series , please everybody sign it so we can start doing something, its not much but its a start!
this is a very common problem and hp refuses to actknowedge it, they recalled the dv series laptops but not the tx which have the same exact problematic motherboards!!!!!(http://www.petitiononline.com/deadhptx/petition.html)　

Here's my non-scientific experiment.
After surprising battery drain for the first 10 days or so with not much usage, I completely drained the battery yesterday until the phone shut off.
I plugged into AC charge and was worried when it didn't seem to even begin charging.
I plugged into USB, assuming it needed to charge enough to at least complete a sync.
I left it on USB until about 5-10% charge, then switched it to AC. At about 50% I needed to use it, so I did but sparingly, and put it back on charge, all the while keeping Mail on manual and WiFi off.
I took it off once more to get it home from the office, then plugged into AC.
I left that charging overnight.
I never actually got the "glow", but did get the plug icon showing full charge in the status bar.
After about 2 1/2 hours this morning, the status has not moved off of 100% (but with little usage as before).
This is definitely an improvement already though. Hope this helps.

For those with 3G...

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