Found "Digital Audio" logic board, cpu & psu inside my Quicksilver ?

Recently got a quicksilver that "appeared" different to me . . .
Upon looking inside it's is a digital audio g4 swap (verified part #'s)
Logic board, 466mhz cpu and psu inside a Quicksilver case.
Any upgrades for this? does the dual 533 work in here?
Not sure what to do with this one, was hoping it was the sawtooth with the agp without adc (for testing flashed video cards without taping pins 3 & 11) . . .anyways

If you are just a TINY bit adventurous, get a QS CPU.
All you need to do is run a 12V line for fourth screw hole on CPU daughtercard.
Have a dig at XLR8yourmac.com, details used to be there...somewhere.
I once a QS 867 CPU and moved a resistor and made it a 933Mhz. I then ran over it with a rolling chair and knock a bunch of caps off.
Soldered them back on and sent it to a friend with a DA. He slapped it in and went on to do great things with that old DA. (like write the Mac Nvidia 6200 ROM)
The later QS 133Mhz bus CPUs had more cache, something like that. I know that the 867 was MUCH faster than a 733 I tried in it once.

Similar Messages

G4 digital audio logic board replacement

My digital audio G4 was starting to shut down by itself regularly, the logic board and the ATI Radeon 9800 Pro Mac Limited Edition video card were heating up well past prudent levels. I'm also running a set of dual Powerlogix dual 1.3 Ghz CPU units on this rig but that didn't seem to be suffering at all. I figured it was the motherwoard wearing out so I replaced it.
Now the tower will start up fine and has not shut down, but I can;t get my montitor to respond (stays black), seems to be getting no signal. The monitor is a Mitsubishi flatpanel, I also can;t get the internal CD drive to open. But the red LED on the motherboard is on and an external airport unit hooked up to the G4 tower is working fine.
Do I need to revert to the original video card, install the Radeon drivers and go back to the Radeon card? Or do not that but anything else?
Appreciate any help/insight/suggestions anyone can provide. Thanks!

The default screen resolution is stored in PRAM, and since you had to disconnect the DC power connector to do that upgrade, the PRAM Backup battery was called into service. If it is weak or dead, corruption creeps into the parameters. Corrupted screen resolution is usually out of range, so you get no picture. Booting to an OS 9 system/Install CD should give you a picture temporarily. Using the Monitors Control Panel should re-write that part of the PRAM, but it is not provided on the CD, you would have to dig in your Disk-based OS 9/Classic to find it.
You may need to Zap your PRAM, press and hold the PMU RESET button on the motherboard, and/or replace your PRAM backup battery.
Message was edited by: Grant Bennet-Alder

Where can I purchase a Logic Board for a 24" Apple Cinema Display?

My 24" Cinema Display started to flicker and black out shortly after I purchased my most recent MacBook Pro. Apple felt that the issue was the MacBook Pro so they replaced it. The problem continued so they suggested I take the Cinema Display to the Genius Bar. The display was out of warranty and the Apple Genius felt the issue was a bad display even after I told him I smelt silicon burning just before it went out completely. He said that he could "depot" the unit and have it repaired for ~$600. Due to the high cost of repair, I chose to purchase a new Thunderbolt Display instead. Recently, I opened the old Cinema Display and found that the Logic Board is fried. I have ordered a new board from 2 different Web retailers. Both accepted the purchase as "in stock" but then stated they could not get the board from Apple. Where can I purchase the Logic Board for a 24" Apple Cinema Display?
Many thanks!

I was very interested to read this document. I think there is a problem with the Cinema Display and that it is frying the computer.
My husband bought each of us a macbook pro. His was hooked up to the cinema display. After about a year, his MBP started to suffer intermittent failures where it would suddenly shut off and have to be hard rebooted. After 2 years, the power or logic board on his MBP completely failed. He bought a new MBP and a Thunderbolt display, and I inherited his Cinema Display for use with my original MBP.
After one month of use with the cinema display, my MBP started to have the same problems. It has to be hard rebooted almost every time I disconnect or reconnect with the cinema display. I went to the Genius bar, and they confirmed that my MBP logic board needs to be replaced; I'm just holding out until spring break to take it back in, as they say it may take a week. Fortunately, I have AppleCare for my MBP.
Our cinema display is 3-4 years old, but it looks like, even though it appears to be working, I should probably get rid of it. I can't keep frying computers!
I'm posting this because I'm wondering how many others are experiencing this problem.

Logic boards for sale on ebay, anybody tried them?

So Apple does not want to fix our faulty macbook pros (which don't qualify for the nvidia timed bomb), and I'm not going to pay thousands just to get that peace of junk work again and sell it for half that price!
I, however, did some search on ebay and found so many logic boards that could replace my faulty one, the sellers claim it's all new and are authentic, but how come they got it in the first place!?! anyone had a successful experience with one of those sellers?
Otherwise should I send my Pro to the states to get the logic board replaced for free since the local apple retailer says it's not included... bla bla... so does it work that way? please help

Boomer, thanks for your reply. The reason why I am asking is that I read somebody's story on this forum that lives in chile or colombia or something, and his local apple retailer told him they can't replace the board in which nvidia's issue is not involved... then he called apple of the US and complained, then they told him they'd fix it for free if he lived in the states or at least send them the laptop... which he couldn't do. So I thought that would work for me, hopefully?
About ebay's sellers, here are some of my findings:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Macbook-PRO-A1229-17-2-4GHz-T7700-Logic-Board-661-4364-/3004 96904049?pt=LHDefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f702df71#ht_500wt922
http://cgi.ebay.com/661-4959-Apple-Macbook-Pro-17-A1229-2-6Ghz-Logic-Board-/1404 75035384?pt=AppleLaptops&hash=item20b4f6eef8#ht_669wt1139
http://cgi.ebay.com/Macbook-Pro-17-2-4GHz-Logic-Board-Santa-Rosa-A1229-/25071814 6653?pt=UKComputing_Apple_MacAccessories&hash=item3a5ff7505d
there are many others... what do you think?

6-month old Mac Pro has already had a new logic board and power supply

At a cost of $400 in shipping and a one-month wait, my 5-month old Mac Pro got a new power supply and logic board
Now I keep getting kernel panics, runaway kernel_task in Activity Monitor, and corrupted boot drives
External Firewire drives work some of the time, and occasionally my USB devices dont work either
This computer is a nightmare - how do I begin to figure out if this is OS (10.6.4) or hardware related?
The extended AHT test reports that all is OK - as does an extended memory test using Applejack
Should I do firmware updates and re-install the 10.6.4 combo pack, or am I just wasting more of my time?
I've got 4 macs and this is the only one that works badly - I think Apple's OS updates are getting as bad as Windows updates

My first question is why you spent $400 to get a 5 month old system fixed. That should have been covered under the warranty. So someone ripped you off, or you left out some key details.
And if you had both the logic board and PSU replaced, did you ever stop to think that maybe the problem lies with the power coming into your house? It's not really the big power spikes or blackouts you need to worry about, since those are pretty rare. What you need to worry about are the small fluctuations in voltage that happen several hundred times a day, if not an hour. Sometimes there's not quite enough power, other times there's a little too much, and all of this takes a steady toll on the PSU. It will do what it can to try and feed the rest of the computer a steady diet of electricity, but sometimes a jolt will get past it and start damaging other components. It could even cause data corruption on your HDD.
If the PSU and logic board already went, who knows what damage it may have caused to anything else. It may just be taking longer to show up.
It might also be that whomever ripped you off to the tune of $400 simply traded you one defective logic board for another. Or maybe they don't really know how to protect against ESD. I once saw a repair shop where the techs smoked in the same room they did the repairs. Sadly, for every one good tech out there, there's probably at least 3 complete idiots. Kind of like auto mechanics.
And I never have problems with Windows or Apple updates. Seems like on Windows the majority of people who have problems with updates are either running some program designed to change the way Windows looks or messes with low level system files, or they have a malware infestation they were unaware of/oblivious to. Most of the people who have problems with Apple updates seem to be the same way. They're running some truly bizarre programs that mess with the system in ways programs were not intended to mess with the system. There's generally a reason OS vendors provide an API for developers. You deviate from that at your own peril.

New iMac G5 PSU/Logic Board Problems

Hi, I just got a new (old) iMac G5 for $30 and thought, "Well, even if it is broken, at least it comes with the new expensive keyboard/mouse" and so brought it home.
When I plugged it in and first powered it on, it went like normal; the fans started, the sleep light went on, then off, made the power sound, but it didn't power the screen and made a sound before everything but the fans went off. So I unplugged it and plugged it back in to see if it would do it again, but all it does now is make a quick high pitched sound then nothing.
I checked the capacitors and the LEDs on the logic board and they tell me it's the logic board (only LED 1 ever goes on), but the faint smell from the PSU and high pitched sound make me think it's the power supply.
What I want to know is which one is most likely broken, because my plan for the computer is to get it running as cheaply as possible and make it into a nice multipurpose family computer (and it still needs a HD and HD tray). If someone who had a broken logic board before tell me what it did when they tried to start up the computer, it would be helpful.
Anyways, thanks to all in advance, and I know I hight find a better iMac on eBay for the same price as the repairs, but it already saved me $70 for the keyboard and mouse, so I thought I might as well fix it up.

Hi, zzloewrider
_"quick high pitched sound"_ -- i think this sounds like the PSU. The LED diagnostics is a bit misunderstandable in that that it says, when the 2nd LED goes shortly on, then it's the PSU, if it doesn't go on, then it's the LB. In fact, the time during which it goes on, can be VERY short, and badly visible in daylight. Thus, you might have luck that its the PSU, not the more expensive LB. The sounds is that what i remember from my PSU failure as well.
Do you have access to an oscilloscope, or at least to a digital voltmeter? You could try to check the voltages the PSU delivers (the oscilloscope gives you in addition information about stability and spikes). if the PSU delivers unstable voltages, then you know whose fault it is. You might even try then to correct it, possibly by replacing some of the capacitors.
Have a look here: http://www.jimwarholic.com/2008/11/apple-imac-g5-power-supply-issues-and.php
Success!
Thomas

Can a 167mhz bus logic board is kill a 133mhz bus cpu?

Well, I'm trying to upgrade my g4 MDD dual 867mhz... So i found a logic board from a newer mdd with 167mhz bus. So anyway, to test the board (got off ebay) I put the dual 867mhz cpu and the ram..ect.. try to boot it up and I got a black screen fans running crazy?? I turned if off.. Put every think back to stock with the old logic board and it doest the same thing. the computer worked great befor for this... Did i kill the cpu in the high bus board? I tryed every the resetting the PRAM, reseating the cpu.. Its just dead! thanks for any help

The CPUs would get very hot very quickly & could be damaged because if you didn't change the Resitors that set the CPU multipliers, it would try to run the 867s at 1.08GHz.
A 25% overclock on the 867s would be a strech in my experience.

Putting old Quicksilver 733 CPU in newer logic board (820-1342-B)???

I bought a Quicksilver logic board (820-1342-B) to replace my old 820-1276-A model. My question is this: Can I put my old 733 CPU, native to the 2001 Quicksilver, in the newer logic board which originally supported 867, 900, and 1ghz CPUs?
I'm thinking I need a CPU native to the logic board. Your thoughts are welcome!

I am using a G4 733MHz Silver Tower and I am wanting to upgrade before having to shell out the big bucks to purchase a new Mac, I found a new 1.6GHz processor on https://eshop.macsales.com, a reputable site I have used for years to keep Mac going. I am a graphic designer and primarily use my Mac for Photoshop, Illustrator and Quark, but know I am needing to add video and web editing to my repertoire and my current system can't handle these apps very well. My question is, does anyone know if I can upgrade my logic board/motherboard by simply putting a new one in, I mean will it even be recognized or work at all? F.Y.I. another site I have used for Mac parts is www.dvwarehouse.com. If anyone has done this with any success please share your experience or knowledge about this sort of thing, thanks.

Can I out an Apple cpu G4 933hz into an Apple digital audio?

I know that the cpu will fit but will it operate?
reason for asking is that I wish to put a third party dual cpu upgrade in the 933hz and wish to utilise the 933hz cpu by placing it into an older G4 digital audio.

I just installed my 533 digital audio CPU in a 450MHz cube. It fit amd works. However you need to take into account pin configuration with bus speed and processor speed when swapping cpu's
The 533 ran on a 133MHz system bus while the 450MHz cube was 100MHz. When I installed 533 in the cube the bus speed pin configuration just happen to equal the right setting to run at 100MHz. Great for me! However the jumper positions for the CPU made it run at 400MHz speed instead of 533. I had to remove the 2 jumpers that were there (magnifying glass and nail clippers) and use a rear window defogger repair kit to add the correct jumper setting which brought it up to 600MHz.
In short your 933 running at 133MHz might just end up being 733 running at 66MHz (just an example) I guess I would just try it and see. Make sure you post back any information you glean.
Laish

Is CPU part of logic board in iBook?

I'm having my logic board replaced on my iBook G3 by apple and I'm hoping the CPU is part of the logic board so I can maybe have it upgraded to a G4. Am I dreaming agian? thanks
h

If you're machine is in for logic board repair, Apple replaces it with it's corresponding Logic Board, therefore you will not be upgraded to a G4 CPU in your G3 machine.
Example: My 900MHz iBook went in for LB repair, and it came back a 900MHz G3 just like it went in, same case with any iBook.

Upgrading CPU G4 Digital audio???

I want to upgrade the CPU on my G4 733MHz digital audio machine. Any suggestions?
I want to use the Machine to run Protools and a Digi 002 interphase. I know I need to boost the CPU to at least 1.5GHz.
I would appriciate any suggeations or advise.
Thanks

Thanks I realised I was posting in the wrong area
Thanks

Monitoring CPU temperature on a Digital Audio

Does anyone know of any downloadable CPU monitoring software out there that will work on a Digital Audio? Temperature Monitor doesn't work on this model (although I think it used to work on a Sawtooth), but it would a great utility to have.

Hello! Welcome to the Forums!
Sadly, there is no real way to obtain the temperature of the CPU in G4 models before Mirror Drive Doors. Those models lack the cpu sensor to report temperature. You might have to search xlr8yourmac.com or use Google to do a search for how to get CPU temperature from a Digital Audio G4.
The technology of those G4s doesn't include a sensor for temperature reporting.

Will my 533MHz Digital Audio CPU work in my AGP Sawtooth G4?

I bought an OEM Dual 533MHz CPU to upgrade my single 533MHz in my Digital Audio Power Mac G4. I was thinking about putting the spare 533 Mhz CPU in my 400MHz AGP Graphics Sawtooth G4. The Digital Audio bus speed is 133MHz, while the AGP G4 bus runs at 100Mhz. Will it work or be downclocked slightly? Thanks in advance!

Hello Craig,
Has been done, but it's not for the faint of heart. Requires microsurgery with a soldering iron and X-acto knife to change bus multipliers and things. As-is, it would be downclocked.
It's been covered somewhere - XLR8yourmac, perhaps - and there's a guy who sells on eBay who does a lot of it - currently has a 550MHz cpu listed - handle of 'ijnujb'.
I would think you'd get more satisfactory results from a used after-market cpu, but if you like to experiment give it a try and report back.
Regards .... Jon

Liquid found on logic board

Hi all!
Basically I had to get my battery replaced today, and after they replaced it they said they found liquid on the logic board and 2 other places (I did spill some water over it a couple of weeks ago). I'm now wondering whether it is worth replacing or not... my laptop does seem to be working fine, but the apple person said it could gradually get worse. The only problem is, is its going to cost £430 to replace, and I'm finding it hard to part with that money while it's currently working fine! what are the chances it will get worse? Do you think I should just bite the bullet as I probably will have to do it sooner or later?
Thanks
Megan

Welcome to Apple Support Communities
I don't recommend people to continue using their MacBooks Pro if they have spilled liquid because their computers may fail at any moment.
If you spilt liquid a long time ago, you can consider the option to continue using your computer and just make backups to make sure that your files are safe, but it's dangerous because something may happen to your computer. The safest way is to have your logic board replaced, but it's up to you

Usb 2.0 port on the right side (beside thunderbolt port) of macbook air 13" 2011 is busted, one of the pins inside the usb port is bent, is this replaceable? saw the pix on ifixit that it is part of the logic board.

usb 2.0 port on the right side (beside thunderbolt port) of macbook air 13" 2011 is busted, one of the pins inside the usb port is bent, is this replaceable? saw the pix on ifixit that it is part of the logic board.

The fix is a new logic board. It might be tempting to turn off the computer and start poking around inside to fix it yourself but you risk separating the port from the logic board and doing even more damage.

Found "Digital Audio" logic board, cpu & psu inside my Quicksilver ?

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