Free download, but pay to use?

This is a free download, but to use it to convert pdf to Word and reverse, I have to pay a monthly fee?

That is correct...sort of.
The application Adobe Reader is strictly for reading/printing PDF's (hence the name). You can extend the abilities and use it to create PDF's by subscribing to a service.
It's really not a bad deal since the application that is normally used for creating PDF's (Adobe Acrobat) costs hundreds of dollars. Of course it does a lot more than the CreatePDF service...

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