Fryed MoBo or CPU?

I am ready to throw my PC out the window. 3 months ago I bought a build it yourself kit. It contained the following:
KT3 ULTRA MoBo
AMD 2000+ XP
AMD fan that came with processor
When my friend and I first assembled my pc it was working so so. While playing online games for a while the pc would hang on me or shut down. After opening up the case the problem went away.
Then 1 week ago the same friend told me to change the FSB speed to 133 MHz and I saw that my pc recognized it was a AMD 2000+ XP processor...before it said it was a AMD Athlon at 1.2 GHz. After that day my PC went down hill. After that instant my pc would boot up but hang or shut down on my after 5 minutes of surfing the web...not doing any heavy application. Then I would have a hard time getting it restarted. Now it won't even turn on...no lights, no BIOS, no beeping sounds.
I had my 300W power supply tested and it works. I bought a new Volcano 7 fan but PC still won't turn on. I checked the CPU for burned marks but there were none. I think the motherboard burned or CPU, but not sure? How can I tell? Anyone got any suggestions...I would really appreciate it.

check your cooler install
make sure the fixing clip is facing the psu
whats your psu in detail
what graphics card
check your bios settings with stickies here
do not remove and refit cooler without cleaning and regreasing

Similar Messages

Kentucky Fried Mobo - Odds of CPU Survival?

Today I have been mostly killing my Neo 2 Platinum.
I borrowed the vid card for another machine and after replacement the thing wouldn't boot. Power to fans - Dbracket stuck at early chipset - no beeps - powers on and off with case switch. Faint burning smell from NorthBridge AGP slot area. The same faint burning smell that comes from the beyond economical repair bin at work. Smashing. Tried part swapping for a couple of hours, stripping to basics, clearing cmos etc.
I won't be sorry to bin the board after all the gart driver fun, odd temps, your drive didn't really need a master boot record and Corecentre doesn't support your motherboard aggro over the last year or so. All the other components are now living with an AthlonXP or P3 for a bit.
Thing is, I don't have another board to test the Athlon 64 on. Have you killed your board? Did the cpu survive the process? It looks ok, doesn't smell or rattle or anything...
TIA

Quote from: blazing storm on 31-August-05, 06:31:55
I was in a similar situation a while back with a Socket A mobo and cpu. To test the cpu I bought a PC Chips mobo for under £7 to save frying another mobo. Can you buy something similar but S939, do PC Chips make S939 boards?
That's what PC Chips is good for...
No doubt...
My 1st ever build was a Socket A ECS board about 5 years ago... I wouldn't inflict one of those upon my worst enemy.

Power supply spark...fried mobo?

Hey my frieed with a K8N Neo is having a problem..everything was working fine in his pc for 11 months...one day his powersupply sparked and the computer would not boot. No lights, no fans, nothing.
So he set in a replacement for a power supply and recived a new one. After plugging in everything the computer would still do nothing, no lights fans etc. Do you think the motherboard is fried? I've checked all the jumpers and they are fine.
His specs are:
Athlon 64 3200
MSI K8N Platinum
X-Infinity case
512 Geil Ram
Thermaltake 420W purepower (W0009R)
120 GB Hard drive
Thanks

Gildan,
You asked the following:
btw, how do u do (4)? (which was how to read voltages on motherboard with voltage multimeter (VMM).
Fiirst thing to do is to read and understand following thoroughly:
VMM USAGE INFORMATION
Many troubleshooting procedures require that you measure voltage and resistance. You take these measurements by using a handheld Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). The meter can be an analog device (using an actual meter) or a digital-readout device. The DMM has a pair of wires called test leads or probes. The test leads make the connections so that you can take readings. Depending on the meter's setting, the probes measure electrical resistance, direct-current (DC) voltage, or alternating-current (AC) voltage.
Usually, each system-unit measurement setting has several ranges of operation. DC voltage, for example, usually can be read in several scales, to a maximum of 200 millivolts (mv), 2v, 20v, 200v, and 1,000v. Because computers use both +5 and +12v for various operations, you should use the 20v maximum scale for making your measurements. Making these measurements on the 200mv or 2v scale could "peg the meter" and possibly damage it because the voltage would be much higher than expected. Using the 200v or 1,000v scale works, but the readings at 5v and 12v are so small in proportion to the maximum that accuracy is low.
If you are taking a measurement and are unsure of the actual voltage, start at the highest scale and work your way down. Most of the better meters have autoranging capability: The meter automatically selects the best range for any measurement. This type of meter is much easier to operate. You just set the meter to the type of reading you want, such as DC volts, and attach the probes to the signal source. The meter selects the correct voltage range and displays the value. Because of their design, these types of meters always have a digital display rather than a meter needle.
CAUTION: Whenever using a multimeter to test any voltage that could potentially be 110v or above, always use one hand to do the testing, not two. Either clip one lead to one of the sources and probe with the other, or hold both leads in one hand.
If you are holding a lead in each hand and accidentally slip, you can very easily become a circuit, allowing power to conduct or flow through you. When the power is flowing from arm to arm, the path of the current is directly across the heart. Hearts have a tendency to quit working when subjected to high voltages. They're funny that way.
I prefer the small digital meters; you can buy them for only slightly more than the analog style, and they're extremely accurate, as well as much safer for digital circuits. Some of these meters are not much bigger than a cassette tape; they fit in a shirt pocket. Radio Shack sells a good unit (made for Radio Shack by Beckman) in the $25 price range; the meter is a half-inch thick, weighs 3 1/2 ounces, and is digital and autoranging as well. This type of meter works well for most, if not all, PC troubleshooting and test uses.
CAUTION: You should be aware that many analog meters can be dangerous to digital circuits. These meters use a 9v battery to power the meter for resistance measurements. If you use this type of meter to measure resistance on some digital circuits, you can damage the electronics, because you essentially are injecting 9v into the circuit. The digital meters universally run on 3 to 5v or less.
Now that you have a nice shiny DIGITAL VMM make sure that you read its manual to understand out it works. Practice taking reading on household batteires and the likes first. Once you are confident and have confirmed that you have the proper lead in the neg/pos connector of your multimeter you are now ready to take some reading from your motherboard. Remember to always ground yourself first to dissipate static electricity, Put the black lead sensor against the case and then use the red lead sensor to carefully probe various points on your motherboard. Be very careful to only touch one point (soldering point, chipset leg, or a motherboard trace) at a time. You want to absolutely avoid short circuiting two such points. As long as you only touch one single point at a time you will be safe and get good reading were voltage is present. I usually use a gator clip connector to affix the black lead to the case, leaving me one hand for flashlight or magnifying glass and other to handle red VMM lead.
Here is how to get a Vddr reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=583463
(Put red lead sensor on green dot)
Here is how to get a Vcore reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23902&stc=1
Your Board layout may be slightly different but just keep looking for something similar near your RAM and CPU. Remember to always use only the red lead sensor while being extremely careful to only touch only one spot at a time.
Have fun,

Old mobo and cpu compatibility

Hi everyone,
I have an old pc with a msi ms-7301 and an Intel core 2 duo e6300.
I want to buy on ebay an Intel core 2 extreme x6800 to upgrade this old and slow computer...
Will the mobo support this cpu?
They are both lga 775, 1066mhz FSB, 65nm...
p.s.
I know that this mobo is OEM, but please help me, don't close this topic! Packardbell has a very bad support and my computer is very old... I contacted them but they didn't reply me
Thanks.

This forum only covers MSI retail components and no oem stuff at all. We have to follow the rules: >>Please read and comply with the Forum Rules.<<

Fried mobo?

Recently got together all the components I needed to build a new pc. Now I bought an msi neo2 platinum. Now since i'd bought a zalman reserator 1 plus I needed to remove the back plate to install the cpu waterblock. Problem is I didn't be very gentle with the hairdryer putting it on the hottest setting and just pretty much sticking it ontop of the metal backplate until the glue was weak and then prised it up with a scerw driver (another mistake) and it came off perfectly began building etc everything else went well but once everything was ready to roll the problems started. I switched on the power to hear 1 long beep and a short pause and the LEDs on the back of the panel light up as to show a memory error. Now I've since switched the corsair twinx I was using and tried a generic 512 stick and that didn't work either then another just to be sure and no luck. Could I have possible fried the motherboard with the hairdryer leading to the memory slots dieing? Also i'm using a cheap £10 600 watt brandless powersupply (not good either). I'll post my specs if you want them.

O.K. i'll give the psu specs in an hour or so got some work to do. But when I have the PSU connected and switch on the computer all the fans are functioning etc could this be a psu problem also I read this comment on a review of the powersupply (cheap ebuyer generic brand power supply) it said this:
The DC rails are stable and within +/- 5% limits. But the +12V rail is marginally on the LOWER side, i.e. at +11.68 to 11.74V. However its maximum current is 17A which may not be enough for major fast CPU upgrades such as AMD A64 3200+ or over as these CPUs rely heavily on the +12V rail capacity. I am doubted.
Someone care to explain that in english? Also i'll get back to you on the powersupply specifications in an hours time.

Am I overloading my MOBO or CPU

I just last night upgraded my GPUs from 2x 9600 GSOs to 3x GTS 250s. I am looking at my temps and my mobo is at 61c, my cpu is at 48c, core #1 is at 56c, and core #2 is at 56c and that is idle under minimal stress. I am used to seeing these numbers down in the high 30s low 40s. I understand that such an upgrade would generate more heat however I also monitor my CPUs activity and its maxed out at 100% both cores when running small apps. I am not sure if I am overloading my mobo or if I just need to upgrade my cpu which is coming today. What the main question is is if I upgrade to a 3.2ghz quad core cpu would that help my temps to go back down?

OK the new CPU came in today ( AMD Phenom II x 4 955, 3.2ghz). I installed it and reinstalled the drivers....again, and that got rid of the high temps and the background flickering, although I think that the temp problem was caused by the Sidebar app and the Program it was using to get its reading, I opened up the program and the temps were normal ( low 40's). then the app updated. All in all thank you everyone for your help:D

How do I tell if it's mobo or cpu?

Hi,
My comp has decided to randomly die. I have a KT4 Ultra (Pure Version), and when it boots up, the D-LEDs indicate that the CPU is dead / not installed properly. I ordered a new CPU - identical XP2400+, in hopes that it was the cpu. The new one does not work either. Is there any chance that it could be the motherboard that has died? Or would the mobo not even start-up - i.e. cpu fan, northbridge fan, and D-LEDs still work.
Am I just unlucky when it comes to CPU's - as I'm already on my 3rd XP2400+ - both previous cpus were faulty!
Help!

1.- I didn't mean hardware overcloking work; I meant some software or bios changing, a new program, a new hardware install...
2.- If D Leds and fans are working, there are less posibilities of a fault Mobo.
3.- Neither 420 W. nor high prices tells something about P.Su. quality. Tell Dif. Amps to 3.3v. 5v. 12v. and combined 3.5-5v.
4.- I can assure you that no one who did bad heatsink-fan installation thought he had, since they turned on the PC. 8)

Troubleshooting Mobo or CPU problem - which?

I have a P43-C51 running a Q6600 for a couple of months with no problem. Today I find the rig won't POST or load BIOS, though everything connected to the power supply through the Mobo is running fine.
It shows this behavioral difference on booting up: turn on power & everything fires up as usual, and all three blue diagnostic lights are lit, indicating, according to the MSI manual, that the CPU is in Phase 3 power mode. About 5 to 10 seconds into the process everything dies (e.g. seems to lose all power) for a second and a half, then power to the rig comes on again -- but now the blue diagnostic lights show only two lights, not three. No BIOS load follows, the machine is functionally dead.
The MSI manual gives condition states for one light on, or three lights on, but not for two lights on. Nevertheless I assume from this that the problem seems to lie in either the Kentsfield chip or the Mobo, but I'm at a loss to figure out how to troubleshoot further without a spare chip to swap. (fwiw, just to be on the safe side, I did investigate all the usual culprits, graphics card, memory, etc.) If anyone has any ideas about how to track the problem I would much appreciate it.
MSI P43-C51
Intel Q6600 G0 Stepping
GTX 460
GSkill 4x2 GB
OCS MX 600W

1. My first suspect would be a faulty or dying PSU. You should test your set up with a known good PSU of around 35A on the 12V rail. The fact that it powers up and then resets lets me believe that the PSU actually shuts down. Quote
(e.g. seems to lose all power)
2. You can try a CMOS clear >>Clear CMOS Guide<< and restest with only one memory module on the board.
3. If you suspect the CPU, then you would need to test the CPU on a known working system.

KT3- 6380 E mobo max CPU support?

I am wondering what BIOS version I need to get support for this board for an AMD XP 2600 / 266 FSB?
I have already flashed the BIOS to version 6712v18. using the live update. This was the only bios update that was found for my board.
I can get the proc installed, but when I set the BIOS to defaults (100 Mhz FSB) it only recognizes the proc as a 733 MHZ, and when I set it to 133 mhz FSB it recognizes the proc as a 1.67. anything higher than 133 and it begins to crash.
When checking the recomended procs/mobos page it does claim this board will support a 2600 proc, but it runs unstable. I can not run aquamark3 benchmarking while set to 133 FSB. When I set the clock multiplier from AUTO to 15x, it sees it as a 733 Mhz proc, and I was able to run aquamark benchmark test.
CPU temp is mid 30's when I check @ startup in the setup panel.
I'm pretty new to this kind of tweaking, so have a heart.
I hope I didn't buy the wrong processor for this upgrade.
Thanks.

Thanks for helping me thru this one.
I changed my FSB setting to 166 and she's running fine. I'm suprised it's working, but it is. I have Motherboard Monitor running, and the CPU is a steady 34c, case temp is stead 35c temp- un loaded. I wish I could show the temps as an HUD overlay while playing Call of Duty- Untied offensive to see how it really stresses the processor.
I've also run aquamark benchmark3 and achieved approx a 1500 ~ 2000 CPU score increase, with a minimal 400 overall increase. (4x agp vid card- soon to be remedied w/ an x800 xt pe in my new rig)
Again, specs
Win XP Pro- SP 2
Board: MSI MS-6380E 1.0
Bus Clock: 170 megahertz (I set it to 166 but Belarc Advisor reports it as 170- unless I misunderstand it)
BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. 07.00T 04/02/01
AMD XP 2600+ running at 2.09ghz
(2) 512Mb sticks Crucial PC 2100DDR DDR PC2100 • CL=2.5 • UNBUFFERED • NON-ECC • DDR266 • 2.5V • 64Meg x 64
Leadtek NVIDIA GeForce4 Ti 4400- driver version 66.93
I have another 256 stick to put back in the machine- when it was not working I thought there might be an issue with un-matched pairs of memory.
Thanks for the help, again- not sure if I would have gotten this corrected had I not ventured over here.
Parrot(CA)
http://www.conarm.com

Fried MOBO, need replacement

Hi, I have an HP Pavilion desktop PC w/ MOBO: IPIBL-LA. I purchased a cheaper replacement off ebay, but does not have RAID support. If I flash the bios to the newest version will this give me RAID?
Thanks.

I found the same model w/ raid and prob solved.
Nice of HP to help by remaining silent...

Mobo or cpu problem????

hi friends
I have one mobo 865PE Neo2 series working at least 3 years without problems using ones P4 1.60A Ghz Northwood overclocked @2.24Ghz working fine; but suddenly when I try turn on my pc the speaker of mobo starts one strange sound as din don, din don, din don, and nothing works except cooler of videocards, cooler of P4 and more nothing;maybe my mobo is dead?? or processor??? in time I try change my two memory modules <working in dual channel>, try remove all other cards on it remaining only videocard and NOTHING works I´m desperate because this pc is my principal tool for live
so I hope some friend try collaborate with me to resolve this strange problem
thanks for anticipation
Nelsinho2

Quote from: eastbay on 23-November-05, 21:47:13
Does the machine work with the speakers UNPLUGGED?
friend I refer to litle speaker into the mobo ok

Mobo and NO CPU

all,
3 questions? (1) what happens when you have a healthy KN8 plat system without a CPU when you attach power to the PSU? (2) same as 1, but assume PSU has been plugged in and you then hit the power switch (again no CPU) ? (3) if the system turns over (from no 2) does the bios post with a CPU error ?
Thanks in advance,
ventura

tire,
this was a hypothetical question to see what a healthy system does...that being said...I have another thread about my current problem that is call "is this a bad board"
MY (2nd RMA, that fails differently then the original) system has 4 red LED's....as soon as you plug in power to the PSU the whole case powers on without hitting the power switch (drives, LED's ect)
but the bios does not post, and the vdo card and CPU do not get warm. I have pulled the CPU and the same behavior happens.
the long and short of it is this: I am trying to determine if my mobo or CPU is the issue. I think mobo (based on the fact the the power/reset buttons are not working and none of my componets are heating up) but knowing the answer to the oringinal questions (specifically 1 and 2) will assist greatly in knowing if I should send my processor out to AMD for replacement also
Thanks
Ventura

How can I tell if its a dead CPU or mobo?

Hi,
I am trying to fix a friend's dead (sort of) computer. He said the computer just stopped working and wouldn't restart. The "TCP" smell from the PSU suggested it had blown.
I've put a new PSU in (Mercury 400W - 3.3V@28A,5V@40A,12V@17A) and the following happens: the computer starts, CPU and PSU fans run, DVD and DVD-RW lights DO NOT light up and will not eject, there is no sound of the HD spinning, there are no error bleeps, on the D Bracket 2 all four lights light up as steady red!
The last suggests that its CPU - but surely I would get error bleeps too if there was a problem with the CPU??
How can I be sure that it is just the CPU and no mobo damage - I don't have a spare socket 754 mobo or CPU to try.
thanks in advance
Cheers
Grim_up_North
AMD Athlon 64 3000+ 754 @ 1.8GHz
1GB (512*2) 1xHynix & 1xM&S PC3200
K8N Neo Platinum (MS-7030 Ver 1)
ASUS GeForce FX5200 128Mb
LiteON 16x DVD Dual Drive SOHW-1673S
Fire Power 350W Power Supply (3.3V@20A,5V@40A,12V@15A)
250Gb Maxtor Diamond Max 10 IDE

Quote from: Grim_up_North on 08-June-06, 02:55:43
Richard,
No Jedi Mind Tricks or anything else needed - all the computer specs appear at the bottom of my original message - its a 7030 Ver 1.
"P.S. Which two lights are Red?" - don't think I mention two red lights anywhere in my original message, there are four lights on the D Bracket 2 - ALL ARE RED!
Cheers
Grim_up_North
Hi my friend!
To check what part of the computer that is damaged and not working disconnect everything inside the computer, CPU, Memory, Graphic card any IDE drive etc.
Now, make sure that the PSU is only conected to the motherboard and nothing else, also connect the power sw and power led.
Now, power on the system, if the system is not powering on check the power sw, if its still not powering on then it's likley that the motherboard is damaged.
If it is powering on the put in the graphiccard and try again, if an image is displayed saying somthing like processor or cpu missing, go ahead and install the processor with cooling and try again, if you still get this messege than you know its a problem ether with the processor or the socket, if you ain't getting processor error messege but memory error messege than you know that the processor is working some what well.
Anyway, the only way to test the socket or processor is by putting it into another hardware...
But this testing is at least some fingerpointing to the problem...
Yours ChalkyGBG!

Is my choice of ram/mobo/cpu going to be a problem?

Hi all, in process of researching a build I'll be doing soon.
Looking at an MSI K8N Diamond Plus Socket 939 NVIDIA nForce4 SLI X16 ATX AMD Motherboard.
(Asus sli deluxe is also in the running)
Looking at 4GB (4x1GB sticks) CORSAIR XMS 184-Pin DDR SDRAM Unbuffered DDR 433 (PC 3500) Dual Channel.
Looking at AMD Athlon 64 X2 4400+ Toledo 2000MHz HT 2 x 1MB L2 Cache Socket 939 Dual Core Processor.
Will this combo of mobo/ram/cpu be a problem or headache of any kind, will it run as 4GB of 433, or will it run as 4GB of something lower (333 or 400), or will it not even run as the whole 4GB to begin with?

Ultra / X2 Connect / 550-Watt / ATX / 120mm Fan / UV Sides / SLI Ready / SATA-Ready / 20/24-Pin / Modular Power Supply
MSI K8N Diamond Plus Socket 939 NVIDIA nForce4 SLI X16 ATX AMD Motherboard - Retail
ASPIRE X-Plorer ATXB8KLW-BL Black/Blue Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail
SAMSUNG 16X DVD±R DVD Burner With 5X DVD-RAM Write and LightScribe Black ATA/ATAPI Model SH-S162L/BEBN - OEM
Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD3200KS 320GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM
2x CORSAIR XMS 2GB (2 x 1GB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 433 (PC 3500) Unbuffered Dual Channel Kit System Memory Model TWINX2048-3500LLPRO - Retail
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4400+ Toledo 2000MHz HT Socket 939 Dual Core Processor Model ADA4400CDBOX - Retail
2x eVGA 256-P2-N564 Geforce 7900GT KO 256MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 Video Card - Retail

New mobo(z87) new cpu, no video output n560GTx ti hawk

Hello everyone
I installed a new mobo and cpu yesterday, now my GPU suddenly doesn't work anymore.
The installed mobo is an Asus z87-DELUXE, the CPU is an Intel i7 4770k.
The GPU is a MSI N560GTX-TI Hawk, the board goes in 00AE (Legacy boot mode) mode, after a minute of being in 00AE the board goes to 00A0 which is the normal state. The screen stays black and nothing happens I cannot go to bios. The VGA_LED turns on red and stays red, this means that there is a problem there (according by the book).
All LEDS are running on my GPU and the fans are running aswel, when I put in my older MSI n9500GT it does work (this one only uses one lane + no external psu connection). The onboard graphics work aswel.
I tried putting my graphics priority to PCIE, then it worked once but after that not anymore again.
The drivers have been updated, my HDD has been wiped and a fresh copy of windows 7 x64 is installed, the bios has been updated aswel to the newest version.
When I try to use my N560GTX to test my changes and put in my N9500GT again after noticing nothing changed, I get a system repair request of windows, I tried this repair twice but now it says it can't change anything on it's own.
Have I missed anything or is my GPU dead?
My setup:
Corsair Obsidian 650d
Coolermaster GX 650W Bronze+
Asus Z87-DELUXE
Intel i7 4770k @Std clock speed - Cooled by Mugen4 PCGH Edition
Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3 1600MHz LP
MSI N560GTX-Ti HAWK
Seagate Barracuda 500GB 7200RPM
1 Optical drive, no other drives
Thx in regards
Jonas

Well, you'd need to test the vga in another system to be sure. Could very well be a compatibility issue with your new board. Make sure it is running at the latest bios version.

Fryed MoBo or CPU?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for