G1X Adapter - use with Canon Wide Angle Lens..and Telephoto lens

I just got a adapter ring for my G1X..to use with a Hoya cloe up filter.
I noticed..that the threads fit my Canon wide angle/telephoto...
have seen nothing about doing this..
and..also felt..the were to heavy for just a LENS ADAPTER RING.
anyone try this...
any ideas...welcomed..

Your samples look like incredibility simple images to do. I also suspect little artificial light was added. Possibly just a bounce off the ceiling.
Since you already have a Rebel T3i, I would get the Canon 430 EX, and just one. But be aware it will likely not provide equal coverage for a 10-22mm lens. Ten millimeters is pretty wide even on a T3i. Bouncing off the ceiling will help this.
Some ceilings may not be good for bounce either.
Give it a go and you will learn what works and what not. But the old saying, KISS, applies. You will learn!
Photshop and/or Lightroom are great additions. They both have learning curves and PS a very long learning curve.
Still think your photographer is overpaid?
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

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Hi Graham,
I see this statement a lot. That Aperture is a DAM and not an edit tool. This is not correct. Apple says that Aperture is "Powerful photo editing and management" and technically there is no reason why Aperture should not have a lens correction tool. It has dodge and burn now, why not more?
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I far as I see Aperture its purpose is to manage and edit photos.
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Hi supercon!
So that the Community can help you better, we will need to know the Computer Operating System you're using (Windows XP/Vista/7/8 or Mac 10.x), as well as the applications you're trying to scan with.
Any other details you'd like to give will only help the Community better understand your issue!
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Thank you for the reply Qiuyun , the article was really helpful!
I do have couple of other questions for you :
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Problems with Canon PowerShot SD450 movies and iPhoto (6.0.2)

I recently got a Canon PowerShot SD450 and got a 2GB memory stick for it. I took some movies with the SD450 but am having a **** of a time getting iPhoto to pull movies off the camera that are > 500MB, give or take. Small movies are fine. I've downloaded movies that are 10MB, 50MB, 200MB, all fine.
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Hi Jason,
When iPhoto 5 first came out I really think it was programmed to import the smaller 30 sec video clips that cameras were taking at the time. Since then, digital cameras, at least my Canon S2 can take clips as large as your memory card can hold. The first time I tried to download my images and movie clips with my new camera, iPhoto stalled at the movie clips. I wasn't going to take any chances messing up my iPhoto Library so I started using Image Capture to download all my images and Movie clips. I actually like doing it this way a lot better. My movie clips are downloaded into my Movies folder where I then put them in a dated folder.
My photos are downloaded into my Pictures folder, where I then put them in a dated folder. I import the dated folder into iPhoto. I also keep all dated folders from photo downloads in the Pictures folder till I get enough Movie folders and Photo folders to fill a DVD. I burn them and then delete them from the hard drive.
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Using Image Capture to download images and video clips:
Open up Image Capture which is found in the Applications folder.
When it is opened, go to Image Capture/Preferences
Under the General button choose
Camera: When a camera is connected, open Image Capture.
The next time you connect your camera Image Capture will open.
In the window that opens you will see an Options button. Click on that button to set your options.
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iPhoto: How to Change the "Open Automatically" Preference
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Dark pictures with canon 5d mark 3 and 600ex flash, night indoors in Auto Mode and flash on.

I have purchased a new canon 5d mark 3 and speedlight 600ex-rt flash. While testing it indoor at night , the room lights are on and I was using the Auto Mode with Flash on. The pictures are Dark with the Flash on and when the flash is turned off the pictures are brighter. I am confused. How to get the AUto mode working with the Flash on.

Automatic mode, it it's attempt to be reasonably foolproof, is going to lock you out of having any control over the exposure.
The E-TTL metering system on your camera & flash are attempting to find the correct exposure for your subject.
Due to laws of physics (the inverse-square law), light has "fall off". It's not actually possible to use a single light source and expose a large room with that single light. Either the subject is nicely lit but everything else will probably be too dark. OR... the background is nicely lit but the subject is heavily over-exposed. (BTW, there are two ways to get around this.)
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Here's a video which both explains and then later demonstrates the concept in a way that makes it very obvious to see and easy to understand. If it seems confusing at first... stick with it. The video is only 12 minutes long.
In fully automatic mode the camera wont let you control anything (except how far away you stand from your subject).
If you switch to "Program" mode, it essentially works like automatic mode EXCEPT it will actually allow you to override settings or set compensations.
When you use a flash in a room with some ambient lighting (but otherwise dimly lit) there's a technique called 'dragging the shutter' (which the camera can actually do for you somewhat automatically).
To do that, set the camera to Tv mode (Tv = Time value... which is shutter priority mode). Dial in a slow-ish shutter speed... say around 1/60th of a second. Use a moderately boosted ISO (400 would probably work well... you might even go up higher).
The camera is going to evaluate the exposure needed for the room as though you don't have a flash... and it'll set the camera settings accordingly. However... since it knows you have a flash, it'll still perform the E-TTL II exposure metering and will use the flash anyway. What you end up with is a shot that has a nicely exposed primary subject (because the camera used flash) AND... a nicely exposed background which was primarily illuminated with ambient light -- but looks pretty good because the camera used an exposure that was adequate for the ambient light.
The reason I suggest using Tv mode and NOT Av mode is because you can control the mixture of flash vs. ambient light by controlling the TIME that the shutter is open. But this does NOT work if you control either the aperture or ISO.
Here's why: The flash is "momentary" but the ambient is constant. If you were to adjust the aperture settings, that will increase or decrease ALL the light sources that contribute to the exposure... so it increases (or decreases) the amount of flash AND the amount of ambient light ... and it does them in the same proportions. If you want to bright up the background lighting WITHOUT over-exposing your foreground subject, then you don't want to increase both... you only want to increase the amount of ambient light.
Since the flash is a momentary burst of light, if you leave shutter open longer you wont actually collect any more light from the flash (because the flash was providing illumination for only a tiny fraction of a second. Extending the amount of time that the shutter remains open means the camera will _only_ collect more of the ambient light... and that helps bring up the dark backgrounds.
One way to get around the flash fall-off problem is to greatly increase the distance between flash and subject. You still get "fall off" but now the distance you have to change to notice the fall off really increases. But this method usually isn't very practical because you'll be standing much farther then you'd prefer to be to get the shot.
The second way (and much more practical) is to "drag the shutter" (deliberately use longer shutter times so that the camera can collect more ambient light long after the flash is done.).
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

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External hardrive to use with Imac - how to format and to what?

i have my external hardrive i use with my pc
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If you have an Intel Mac do this:
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IPod used with windows, now bought Mac and want to transfer music

Gang:
First of all, I fell in love with apple products when I received an iPod for Christmas last year, loved it so much, i have turned around and bought an iMac G5 lol. Here is my dilema: I have been using my iPod w/ Windows, but now I want to quit using Windows, and use same iPod (with all its accumulated music) on my iMac. I made the mistake of connecting my iPod to the Mac it erased everything on my iPod (thank goodness I kept my Windows machine with the back ups) ... what do you suggest to transfer my music? Is there a way to use the iPod or do I have to buy 3rd party software as my brother has suggested ... thank you for your help! Cheers

Read through this. It explains how to use your iPod
to transfer the music...
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=300173
Also, as long as the iPod is formatted for use with
windows, it will work on both.
btabz
First of all, I want to thank you for your tip in the right direction; my iPod is now fully functioning with my iMac. This, however, is not the complete tale. I went to the document you referred, and began following the directions step for step. I got to a point where I was copying my iTunes folder onto my iPod when I encountered my first problem. Midway through the copy, I got an error to the effect of "cyclical redundency error," or something to that effect. Windows aborted the transfer and I was left scratching my head. To make matters worse, my iPod would no longer connect to either iTunes or the PC, it would just be in a constant state of "Do Not Disconnect." My windows explorer would show "e:/" was a removable drive, however it said it now needed to be formatted. I thought, "this is wicked annoying, but ok, lets use the iPod updater." No dice. It continued in its "Do Not Disconnect" state indefinetly. I tried resetting, etc., same ends. I tried formatting by totally removing iTunes, then the iPod program itself. The I tried reinstalling the iPod program as if it was the first time (remember, all you Windows users, when you first set the iPod up for use with Windows, you must format it), still that endless "Do Not Disconnect" (and if you put your ear to the iPod, you heard what I would call "click, click, whhrrr" over and over). Finally, I had it. I did a comand line format (c:\format e:) and that worked to reformat it. Then, I basically had an iPod in its "new" state and followed the above link tit for tat, no issues this time. All told, 5+ hours just so I could use my existing iPod ... I'd like to blame Windows for this one, but who knows.
None the less, it seems the ends justify the means in this case; so once again, thank you, everyone, for all your help.
Cheers

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the 14 part means it is for Java 1.4. You should use a driver from either the ODJBC5 (Java 5) or OJDBC6 range (Java 6). All drivers are backwards compatible, so you can use the latest drivers to connect with older Oracle releases. Just don't assume that the latest one is the best one, check Google for specific problems before using a specific driver release.

220v adapter used with iPad & iPhone charger

Will the apple world travel adapter kit work with my USA iPad in South Africa?

Chigginbo wrote:
Will the apple world travel adapter kit work with my USA iPad in South Africa?
No. It does not have the correct plug adapter for SA.
The kit is far more than you need anyway.
The charger you received with the iPad will work world-wide (110-240 VAC). All you need is a plug adapter.
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Is anyone else experiencing problems with the thunderbolt port on their Mac Mini's regarding using it to connect a second monitor? I've got the Mini Display Port to DVI-D adapter along with a DVI-D cable and I can't get an image on the second monitor.

I had an dual display image / setup working twice for a few seconds, but then it cut out. I think there may be a problem with the thunderbolt port.

As far as I can tell you have only listed that you have a DVI monitor connected to the Mini Displayport socket (i.e. the Thunderbolt socket) via presumably the Apple Mini Displayport to DVI adapter and a DVI to DVI cable.
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Canon Rebel EOS XSi and EF Lens 70-200/4/L IS U

Having trouble getting clear action shots of high school football games at night. No problems until after dark.
This is my first post. Would like to know if I will ever get good clear action shots using this lens or will it never have enough light. Thanks for your help

TCampbell wrote:
f/2.8 lenses are rather expensive. So I thought I might offer an alternate suggestion.
You Canon XSi body is rather old and has a max ISO of 1600. Of course "at" max ISO the images will be extremely "noisy". Shooting max ISO on any camera will be loaded with noise, but usually backing off 1 to two stops worth of ISO is a huge improvement. For considerably less money than the cost of an f/2.8 zoom lens suitable for sports, you might instead consider a new camera body with substantially better sensor performance.
Even a T3i would be a big step up in ISO performance (ISO 6400). Shooting at ISO 1600 is no problem and shooting 3200 is still ok (a bit of noise but nothing that can't be managed in software by doing some de-noising and a bit of edge-sharpening (avoid over-all sharpening as that amplifies noise.))
Ultimately a 7D II (not shipping until November) would be THE camera to have (ISO 16000 ... but backing off a bit from max ISO would still let you shoot in the ISO 3200-6400 range without even hesitating.) It also has a phenominal focus system and blazingly fast continuous burst speed. Canon has a retail price of about $1800 (body only) but go check the prices on f/2.8 zooms and you'll see that's still a savings.
Buying an f/4 or even f/2.8 lens is going to get you 1 to 2 stops worth of improvement. Buying a new body may get you 3+ stops worth of improvement, plus improved overall performance of the camera.
Just something to consider.
An excellent point. Note that the new camera would improve the high-ISO performance of all the OP's lenses, not just the 70-200.
Bob
Boston, Massachusetts USA

G1X Adapter - use with Canon Wide Angle Lens..and Telephoto lens

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