G4 flat panel crashes constantly!

About two weeks ago my G4 flat panel started crashing intermittently. Half the time it just would not start up again until it had been left for a while. Thinking the hard drive was overloaded, I backed up all my files and did a clean install of Tiger. (It now has 27 Gigs available.) It was fine for a few days, then it crashed again yesterday! I reset PRAM and NVRAM. I switched off the sleep option, thinking it might be causing the crashes. Then, this morning it crashed again This time I was able to copy this information:
panic (cpu 0 caller 0xFFF0003): 0x300 - Data access
Latest stack backtrace for cpu 0:
Backtrace:
0x000954F8 0x00095A10 0x00026898 0x000ABB80
Proceeding back via exception chain:
Exception state (sv=0x29E70000)
PC=0x000A5440; MSR=0x00001030; DAR=0x00000037; DSISR=0x42000000; LR=0x000A7F48; R1=0x0036DB20; XCP=0x0000000C (0x300 - Data access)
Backtrace:
0x000A7F48 0x000ABB80
Exception state (sv=0x29E27780)
PC=0x00017874; MSR=0x00021030; DAR=0xDFEDC4E0; DSISR=0x40000000; LR=0x00017FFC; R1=0x0036DCD0; XCP=0x0000001C (0x700 - Program)
Backtrace:
0x00017BE0 0x00017FFC 0x00018370 0x000C5850 0x00096090 0x00095CAC
0x000AC6EC
Exception state (sv=0x33271780)
PC=0x0027AFE8; MSR=0x00009030; DAR=0x000001D1; DSISR=0x42000000; LR=0x005FB43C; R1=0x000001E1; XCP=0x0000000c (0x300 - Data access)
Backtrace:
backtrace terminated - unaligned frame address: 0x000001E1
Kernel loadable modules in backtrace (with dependencies):
com.apple.iokit.IONetworkingFamily(1.5.0)@0x5ec000
Exception state 9sv=0x223CE780)
PC=ox00000000; MSR=0x0000D030; DAR=0x00000000; DSISR=0x00000000; LR=0x00000000; R1=oxoooooooo; XCP=0x00000000 (Unknown)
Kernel version:
Darwin Kernel Version 8.11.0: Wed Oct 10 18:26:00 PDT 2007; root:xnu-792.24.17~1/RELEASE_PPC
panic: We are hanging here...
From the little I know this looks like a kernel panic. Does anyone know for sure and can you tell from the information what caused the panic?
I haven't yet checked the RAM chip (XDEALRAM 512 MB for flat panel iMac G4 PC133 SO DIMM) I bought from 18004MEMORY and installed in April.
HELP!
700 MHz PowerPC G4 / 768 SDRAM
G3 CRT/G4 Flat panel/iBook/MacBook Mac OS X (10.4.11) Will work on PCs if necessary, am trying to recover from them!

You may have to try removing the RAM upgrade, and while the computer
is still off, put it back together, put the power cord back in, and then try
and reset the PRAM on startup. That's the old four-finger salute where
the option, command, r, p keys are held down almost forever after press-
ing the power button with the four held down. The computer should make
a startup bong sound, then keep holding the keys down until it bongs thrice.
The RAM chip may be bad; but then too, could be an issue elsewhere in
the computer. There is a good troubleshooting topic on how to go about:
Resolving Kernel Panics:
http://www.thexlab.com/faqs/kernelpanics.html
Technical Note TN2063: Understanding and Debugging Kernel Panics
http://developer.apple.com/technotes/tn2002/tn2063.html
The issue can mean a hardware issue could be the cause; or it may
mean there could be a software cause behind the kernel panic. In a
few cases, there may be a combination of both; so troubleshooting
is a step by step process. Simple things, such as the RAM, first.
In some situations, the problem may be more or less involved; you
can hope for a less costly cure, but if it gets too odd, you may have
to pay a tech to troubleshoot. If you have skills in this matter, you
should be able figure out how involved this one really is...
Good luck & happy computing!

Similar Messages

My Flat Panel crashed...!!!!

Hi!
I think the problem was created while trying to tranfer music from my iTunes to a 8GB SDHC Memory Card I just purchased, which I connected via USB... Now the "hold the power button..." message keeps on coming. Can anyone help me on this one, please? Can I save my files while restoring from OS Disc?
Thanks.
Roy

Hi Dale!
Thanks for your advice. I've worked the DU already and this is the info I got from it:
Verifying volume “Mac HD”
Checking HFS Plus volume.
Checking Extents Overflow file.
Checking Catalog file.
Checking multi-linked files.
Checking Catalog hierarchy.
Checking Extended Attributes file.
Checking volume bitmap.
Volume Bit Map needs minor repair
Checking volume information.
Invalid volume free block count
Invalid volume free block count
uld be %@ instead of %@)",2)
1765611
1765148
The volume Mac HD needs to be repaired.
Error: The underlying task reported failure on exit
1 HFS volume checked
Volume needs repair.
But, the Disk Repair button is not ready to be clicked. Don't know what to do from here.
I have not used the install disk yet. I have the Tiger 10.4 version. I'm afarid to lose all my files, which I can't back up since the "hold down the power button..." message stops my flat panel every 5 minutes.
Thanks again!
Roy

IMac 18" G4 Flat Panel - Tiger 10.4.9 Install Crashing

Newbie to this forum coz I've never had a problem with my iMac since I bought it new all those years ago. I got Final Cut Pro as a gift and needed to upgrade from 10.2.8 as supplied with my iMac to 10.4 according to the FCP instructions, so I duly bought 10.4.9 generic which I am trying to install.
As soon as the machine restarts with the OS install disk 1 in the drive it crashed with a kernel error telling me something about not finding Power PC 6.1?
According the the Apple website this OS should install on this machine. The iMac is an 18" flat panel with 768MB RAM and 60GB of free disk space, Power PC G4 1Ghz.
Since the OS install discs are generic and not specifically for one type of computer in particular, can anyone suggest what may be the root of the problem and how to fix it?
Look forward.
Tx
Tiff

Your gray install DVD won't work.
Tiger install DVDs are in short supply. Tiger is no longer available from Apple. For other sources, do a Google search for MA453Z/A (10.4.6), MA190Z/A (10.4.3) and M9639Z/A (10.4) . Also look on eBay. Be sure & buy a retail version (black with silver X) and not a model specific version (gray). Expect to pay (possibly a lot) more than the Apple list price of $129.
Also check this web store http://www.lacomputercompany.com/cgi-bin/rpcart/index.cgi?command=dispitem&type= sku&sku=19521
Here's the link for the 10.4.11 combo update http://support.apple.com/kb/TA24901?viewlocale=en_US
Look at this link Mac OS X v10.4 Tiger Installing Software Support Page
http://www.apple.com/support/tiger/install/
You can also download the Tiger Installation and Setup Guide
http://manuals.info.apple.com/en/TigerInstall_SetupGuide.pdf
When you upgrade the OS, do it via Archive & Install. See About the Archive and Install feature http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1710
 Cheers, Tom

IMac G4 Flat Panel 1Ghz - 1 beep when turning it on.

I have an iMac G4 Flat Panel 1Ghz that beeps once when you turn it on. After doing some research, I learned the 1 beep could be no RAM or RAM problem. I replaced both the internal RAM and the easily accessible RAM with RAM from a reputable dealer that markets this RAM just for iMac G4s. I still get one beep after startup. I tried taking one stick out and all variations of using the old and new RAM with no difference. I did more research that maybe it was the power supply. By the way, originally this iMac was shocked through its Ethernet port with lightning. I since bought a new motherboard, new RAM as stated, and now also the power supply. After putting it all together, I still get one beep at startup. I have reset the PMU also. Also added a new battery. Looking forward to your suggestions.

There may be some indication of the beep's cause after some thorough
testing of the computer with some utility software; perhaps even the basic
Apple Hardware Test which would have accompanied the computer when
new could be helpful to some degree, if the machine were run in that, in a
long continuous loop to see if at some point, it may generate some codes.
However, the startup sequence itself is where such a hopeful bit of information
would more likely be generated; and this is the kicker, in that some of the info
at start-up is too early in the beginning of the run-cycle to be recorded or read.
But, you may find evidence of the issue in the Console error message reports
in that utility; and there are a few different sub-titles of places in Console to look.
Also, you may be able to find some error or crash messages, or other runtime
messages and glitches, in the System Profiler> Software> progression path.
There may be another source of the single-beep on startup tone. Not sure of
any other, though; since the Power-on self-test is generally what checks out
those computers on start-up. And the 'single beep' suggests there is a RAM
issue, as this Beep would replace the normal startup chime.
So, that early in the startup, and without a booted system, the error logs or
crash and failure reports would not be generated to be read later.
Is the computer you have really a 20" LCD and does it truly have a 1GHz
CPU? Or, does it have a 1.25GHz PPC processor, as it should? Did the
company you obtained the replacement logic board from, have anything
to say about the kinds of issues you've noted the computer displaying?
There may have been a limited duration warranty on the rebuilt board.
There have been a few of the old iMac G4 17" & 20" 1.25GHz models
generating an odd, single 'buzz' sound after the normal startup tone.
Is your's making a 'single beep' or a 'buzz' sometime after booting?
Do you have any other RAM chips of correct supported version to
replace one or both RAM slots, of reliable quality product? How was
the OS installed into the computer, or have you been unable to do so?
Once in a great while, new correct RAM could be bad on arrival. Rare.
{This is a lot like chasing gremlins or setting a trapline for gnomes.}
Maybe someone, such as the contributor alias 'spudnutty' may know of
some other factor in this matter that he has found, that may cause that.
Good luck & happy computing!

Did we kill our flat panel

my wife's 17- usb2 flat panel was having occasional crashes, so it occurred to me that it could use more ram. I didn't feel like opening the bottom, so I bought the computer to a repair shop that works on macs. he put a stick of kingston memory in the factory-installed slot bringing up to 1 gig. we brought the computer home and turned it on. It was fine for a half hour when it suddenly went dark (not asleep, dark). We restarted and got an "Open firmware" window and a graphic that looked like either scribble or a thousand computer chips. I restarted and heard a squeal (like a high D), then got the open firmware window. A few restarts later, we got the computer running, but there were odd lines through the screen.
at that point, I shut it down and opened it up and replaced the ram back to the original, carefully using my torx screw driver. I closed it up, turned on the machine and it worked fine — for twenty minutes when it went dark and this time refused to wake up.
I opened it again and rechecked to make sure the ram was slotted. it was. turned it on, got the chime and nothing, as if it won't access the ram or anything. I don't hear the disk drive turning, just the hum of the machine. I tried command option O-F (someone had success with that), but no luck.
anyone have any suggestions? Is this computer toast?
thanks for any advice,
jeff

jeffisme wrote:
my wife's 17- usb2 flat panel was having occasional crashes, so it occurred to me that it could use more ram. I didn't feel like opening the bottom, so I bought the computer to a repair shop that works on macs. he put a stick of kingston memory in the factory-installed slot bringing up to 1 gig. we brought the computer home and turned it on. It was fine for a half hour when it suddenly went dark (not asleep, dark). We restarted and got an "Open firmware" window and a graphic that looked like either scribble or a thousand computer chips. I restarted and heard a squeal (like a high D), then got the open firmware window. A few restarts later, we got the computer running, but there were odd lines through the screen.
at that point, I shut it down and opened it up and replaced the ram back to the original, carefully using my torx screw driver. I closed it up, turned on the machine and it worked fine — for twenty minutes when it went dark and this time refused to wake up.
I opened it again and rechecked to make sure the ram was slotted. it was. turned it on, got the chime and nothing, as if it won't access the ram or anything. I don't hear the disk drive turning, just the hum of the machine. I tried command option O-F (someone had success with that), but no luck.
anyone have any suggestions? Is this computer toast?
thanks for any advice,
jeff
Take it back and have that stick removed, the new RAM. Sometimes bad RAM or incompatible RAM will do that. Worth a shot.

Mixing RAM Speeds In iMac G4 1GHz 17" Flat-Panel?

I'm just checking here.
I have an iMac G4 1GHz 17" Flat-Panel, Model M8935LL/A (USB 1.1 version) that currently has the standard 256MB PC2100 (266 MHz) RAM module installed in the factory slot, and a 512MB PC2700 (333 MHz) RAM module installed in the bottom (user-accessible) slot. I bought the machine direct from Apple, so despite the "official" spec (which calls for PC2100 RAM in both slots), it's obvious that Apple knows PC2700 RAM will work in that machine. My understanding is that the faster PC2700 RAM simply downclocks to accommodate the lower 266 MHz bus speed of the M8935LL/A. As I understand the DDR SDRAM spec, any DDR SDRAM (PC1600 through PC3200) module will simply overclock or underclock to accommodate the host bus speed...but feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken on that point.
I'm fixing to upgrade the hard drive to a larger capacity model. I've done it before, so I know it's no picnic. Since I have to go past the factory RAM slot anyway to change the hard drive, I figure I might as well upgrade the internal RAM to the full 1GB limit. (Yes...I know Apple says you can't exceed 512MB in either slot, so please—no remonstrances about sticking to Apple's spec. The spec is wrong.)
Obviously, it's possible to mix the two RAM speeds between the two slots, since Apple shipped the computer that way. Here are my questions:
• Is there any downside to going the other way when I upgrade the RAM—that is, putting a 1GB PC2700 (184-pin) module in the factory slot, and a 1GB PC2100 (200-pin) module in the user slot? The reason I ask is because my preferred supplier (OWC) can't supply me with both modules in the same speed.
• Is there any performance advantage in both modules being the same speed—that is, both PC2100 or both PC2700? If not, I'll just buy the one of each speed that OWC has available.
Thanks!

jjw wrote:
So, you know have 2Gb available in your flat screen imac?
Yes indeed—2GB confirmed as available by Apple System Profiler. Both modules are PC2700. Everything is working fine.
I guess I can understand why Apple discourages users from replacing the 184-pin "factory slot" module. There's not a whole lot of slack in the motherboard connector cables, so it's best to disconnect them in order to get the bottom section to lie flat on the workbench. I suppose some folks might be hesitant about disconnecting things, but it's really quite simple, and involves only three connectors. After having changed the hard drive a few years ago, replacing the RAM was a piece of cake by comparison.
A word of caution to anyone who's going to attempt it, though. There are TWO heat sink interfaces between the bottom section (where the motherboard is mounted) and the top dome. Those heat sink surfaces are coated with thermal paste at the factory, but the compound dries out over time, becoming a rubbery membrane between the heat sink surfaces. Once you separate the top and bottom sections, the membrane rips apart, and the firm connection between the heat sink surfaces is permanently gone. It's a bad idea to simply put them back together after you change the RAM module; you won't get a good thermal connection.
The solution is to scrape all of the old rubbery compound off all four surfaces (two on the bottom and two on the top section). I did it with a piece of PVC, but you can use anything with a sharp edge that won't scratch the metal surface—even your fingernails will work, unless the old compound has dried out to the point where it's hard. After you scrape the old gunk off, apply new thermal paste to all four surfaces.
The other maintenance item you can perform while you're in there is cleaning out all the dust, which accumulates in vast quantities and interferes with cooling. I vacuumed it out with a plastic crevice tool, being careful NOT to touch any of the components with the tool. Vacuuming can build up a static charge on the tool, especially in dry environments, and high static voltages aren't friendly to microprocessors. I used a securely grounded anti-static wrist strap throughout the entire operation, and even wrapped it around the vacuum tool.
Good luck!

Mac Mini to G4 iMac Flat Panel display ???

Just scanned some pages back in this forum and couldn't see this as a topic-so I'll ask.
I was wondering, if I had a 17" Flat Panel imac (even the 800Ghz version, or the 1Ghz or the !.25Ghz - or event the 20" [yummmmy] ) could I drive the mac mini via the iMacG4's highly versatile flat panel display ???
[ideally I'd love to be able to re-engineer the Flat Panel's guts with smaller but faster CPU etc - and as machine innards get smaller maybe this will be possible - because the screen tilt and swivel is so versatile; eh!)]
gregg

Hmm - why did myinnermostthoughts sudenly become a hyperlink - or is it a hyperjump into the final frontier of cyber-computing???
Anyway, but I had hoped to just plug a keyboard into 2005 'Twiggy" , use a VGA adaptor/er between the two machines, and use the 1.42 Ghz speed of the 'Twiggy' to display stuff (CS2 etc) on the Flat Panel's display (oxymoronic word usage here - I suppose). The Flat Panels do have an vga port - so why cant the cable go from the mac mini to the VGA port of the iMac ??? Are you saying ti's almost impossible - or are you refering to re-engineering???
Gregg

Cant get Apple TV to work properly with older flat panel TV.

I have an older flat panel, a 42" philips 42pf9630a. This one:
http://www.retrevo.com/support/Phili.../278bh337/t/2/
I plugged my brand new Apple TV into the HDMI and switched input on the TV. I can see the Apple TV main menu but it blips in and out, toggling between the main menu and snow. Obviously there's some sort of communication issue between the Apple TV and my Philips. I have successfully used this apple TV on several other TV's in the past couple of months.
Is it because my TV is too old? Any suggestions on what I can do to fix this??
Thanks for your help!

Go in to the network and sharing center (in control panel), with the pc connected by wire. Right inder the little "map" of her network, it will list the available networks (probably only one listed), click customize and set it to private, you can also name it if you want so its more easily identified.
Also, make sure file sharing and network discovery are "on".
Message Edited by Frunple on 03-17-200705:50 AM

17" flat panel Mac can no longer get on my Airport Extreme network

My 17" G4 flat panel iMac can't get on my Airport Extreme network. It has been on the network for years. All of a sudden I can't get on my own network. The Airport extreme uses a WAP2 Security password. Everything else in my home is on this network ie. Blu-Ray players, Wii, Nintendo DS's, MacBook, Apple TV. The G4 doesn't even have WAP2 as an option! Where did the option go? I really don't wanna set up the network again with a WEP password(That's an option on the G4) and have to reset everything. What happened?

There were two 17" flat-panel G4 iMacs. The earlier of the two (Part# M8812LL/A) had an optional AirPort Card. This card only supports 802.11b and either the WEP or WPA security standards. It does not WPA2. This may be the reason the G4 is not able to connect to your wireless network if you have it configured for WPA2 Personal.
You will need to reconfigure the AirPort to use the "WPA/WPA2 Personal" option.

How to connect an old ADC flat panel to the new Mac mini?

I am thinking of getting one of these new Mac mini's for the kids in the den and I have an old 20" flat panel ADC from Apple that is still going strong. Is there an adapter that will work with this configuration?
Thanks,
West

Somewhat ungainly, but you'll need the mini-DVI-DVI adaptor (supplied with the new mini), and a DVI-ADC adaptor (http://store.apple.com/us/product/M8661LL/B?fnode=MTY1NDA5OQ&mco=MjE0NTg4NA)

Is it possible to use old Apple Flat Panel Display (62 watt power adapter) with MacBookPro 13" Mid-2012 running 10.8.4? Tried mini display to VGA cable

Is it possible to use old Apple Flat Panel Display (62 watt power adapter) with a MacBookPro 13" Mid-2012 laptop? Would like to use larger screen when working at home. I have a mini display port to VGA cable and have tried to hook up the old display but it seems not to work. When I try to activate the screen on the old display-- a window comes up in the MacBookPro and asks me if I want to shut down the computer. What little I have read it that the MacBookPro had Thunderbolt and the old display may not be compatible? Any assistance would be appreciated.

quax88 wrote:
11.09.12 22:16:06,148 ClamXavSentry[286]: scan email files
11.09.12 22:16:06,148 ClamXavSentry[286]: I will quarantine infected files
This doesn't have anything to do with your problem, but it will likely cause other issues with your e-mail.
Here's my standard recommendation concerting the use of A-V software to deal with potentially infected messages:
Never use ClamXav (or any other A-V software) to move (quarantine) or delete e-mail. It will corrupt the mailbox index which could cause loss of other e-mail and other issues with functions such as searching. It may also leave the original e-mail on your ISP's e-mail server and will be re-downloaded to your hard drive the next time you check for new mail.
So, if you choose to "Scan e-mail content for malware and phishing" in the General Preferences, make sure you do not elect to either Quarantine or Delete infected files.
When possibly infected e-mail files are found:
Right-click/Control-click on either the infection or file name in the ClamXav window.
Select "Reveal In Finder" from the pop-up menu.
When the window opens, double-click on the file to open the message in your e-mail client application.
Read the message and if you agree that it is junk/spam/phishing then use the e-mail client's delete button to delete it (this is especially important when the word "Heuristics" appears in the infection name).
If you disagree and choose to retain the message, return to ClamXav and choose "Exclude From Future Scans" from the pop-up menu.
If this is a g-mail account and those messages continue to show up after you have deleted them in the above manner, you may need to log in to webmail using your browser, go to the "All Mail" folder, find the message(s) and use the delete button there to permanently delete them from the server.
To fix the corrupted mailbox index(es), highlight each one that was corrupted and choose Rebuild from the appropriate menu.

Mail crashing constantly in Leopard but only for one user

Has anyone else seen this problem? Leopard installed correctly and seems to run fine on a G4 Powerbook BUT Mail3.0 crashes constantly. Cannot open or delete a message. Simply opening and then quitting causes a crash. However, I can still receive and send mail. Here is the uncaught exception thrown by Mail:
* Terminating app due to uncaught exception 'NSInternalInconsistencyException', reason: 'trying to set a non-ToDo MailboxUid for a ToDo. The MailboxUid for a ToDo must be a ToDosMailboxUid'
Permissions repaired. File ownership checked. Reloaded Leopard with Archive&Restore. Nothing seems to help. However, other logins on the same Powerbook dont have any problems. Mail works fine for those IDs.
Has anyone got a solution or do I have to wait for 10.5.1 for some relief?
Thanks......

Have you tried synchronizing the mailbox? (The pop-up menu accessed by the little cog icon in the lower left corner of the Mail window, or the Mailbox menu)
How about taking the Mail account off line and then reconnecting it?
Do you have lots of messages in this Inbox? Moving old email to an archive "On My Mac" so they're removed from the dot-Mac server reduces the amount of synchronization that has to be done and thus less risk of encountering a corrupt message file.
Are there lots of attachments to messages? Sometimes a corrupt attachment can cause a problem.
Just some ideas.

Superdrive replacement in flat panel iMac

I have seen this addressed in bits and pieces on many different forums, so I figured it was about time to try and get this information in a place where it could be easily found.
The problems encountered by many iMac G4 flat panel users with their superdrives seem to have only one common solution.......replacement of the drive.
There are numerous fixes that at best are temporary solutions to a problem that will only get worse until the drive fails completely.
This model iMac seems to be extremely susceptable to the accumulation of dust, which in turn causes the internal parts to overheat, which probably leads to premature failure of the laser components of the drive.
In 10.4, the common error is related to laser power calibration failure, in which the laser is unable to either read or write to the disk in order to determine the correct write speed for that disk.
Earlier versions list similar problems, but the wording is different.
Using a different type of media can be a temporary solution, if the problem is just beginning, but at best, probably a few burns is all you will get.
Using a lens cleaner will help in some cases, but also temporarily if internal dust is the culprit.
Other solutions, including burning to a disk image, then using disk utility to burn the dvd will also work, occasionally, as will creating a new user account.
The ultimate solution is replacement of the optical drive, and a good internal cleaning of the iMac.
Cleaning alone may solve the problem, however, since you already have the unit disassembled, and the optical drive removed for proper cleaning, it is best to go ahead and replace the drive, since the newer, dual layer, 16x drives are relatively inexpensive, some for under $40.00 US. Also a good time to install that new HD since it is removed along with the optical assembly, and even a little extra ram.
You should be aware that doing this yourself will no doubt conflict with Applecare, if you have it, but on older models without the warranty, most people should be able to do this themselves.
This URL .......http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/iMacg4/imacg4takeapart.html...........provides a take apart guide and step by step directions to replacing the components, and is very easy to follow. Make sure that if you don't have a second computer, that you print these pages prior to beginning disassembly of your iMac.
It is really not as complicated as it looks, and if you have any mechanical ability, and a little patience, it can be easily done within an hour.
Also be aware that if you install a dual layer drive, You will not be able to access the dual layer feature in iDvd unless you install a patch from this website........http://www.hardmac.com/niouzcontenu.php?date=2005-05-26#4090.............the file name is MBiDVD4ALLDUAL.sit.
This will allow you to use those dual layer disks with iDvd.
There are numerous drives that will work in your flat panel iMac, personally, I installed the Pioneer 110D, and so far, it has worked perfectly, including burning the dual layer disks.
The 110 is actually slightly smaller than the original drive, and was easier to install, than the other model was to remove. Most drives are standardized in size, and all mounting screws positioned in the same place, so as long as the drive you choose is not larger than your original, it should work.
I hope this helps a few of you out, I know about the time I spent searching for answers before finally giving up and just buying the new drive.
You sure won't regret being able to burn at 16x, or getting those ninety minute movies on one disk.
Good Luck
Pazuita

Hello Pazuita,
I think you meant to post this in the imac area of the Discussion forum, this is the Feedback forum.
The info you have complied would be best posted there.
Eme :~{)

Safari and other apps crash constantly. Why?

Safari and many other apps crash constantly - the screen just goes black and then back to the home screen. Is this a common problem?

1. Double-click the Home button to see all Inactive Apps in Task Bar
2. Hold the Apps down for a second or two until you see the minus sign
3. Tap the minus sign to close App
4. Tap center of screen to return to Home Screen
5. Reset iPad. Hold the Sleep and Home button down for about 10 second until you see the Apple logo. Ignore the red slider

IPad 1 Safari Crashes Constantly and getting worse day by day. Has Apple come up with a solution? Now I am hearing its alos happening on the newer models. My company is about to buy a lot of tablets and I will not recommend Apple anything til they fix.

iPad 1 Safari Crashes Constantly and getting worse day by day. Has Apple come up with a solution? Now I am hearing its also happening on the newer models. My company is about to buy a lot of tablets and I will not recommend Apple anything until they fix the problem. Granted 30 or 40 iPads is not a huge impact but i promise once the outside world hears about this BS things will change. There are plenty of other tablets out there that do not have this problem. At the very least we should have the option of rolling back to a stable IOS...

I have already tried all the things mentioned above as well as other things such as other browsers etc. Its is obviously a problem with the hardware. I also borrowed a brand new 4th gen iPad and it does the same thing. Even after upgrading it to 6.01. An occasional crash is one thing and can easily be waved off but this is clearly systemic and the problem appears to be related to graphical images and videos. Both iPads are the 64gb versions, the only difference other than model is the iPad 1 has ATT cellular. The new version is clean i.e no other APPs loaded other than what came with it. I have 7 more coming but im seriously considering sending them back in favor of an Android tablet or the MS Surface.

G4 flat panel crashes constantly!

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