G4 MDD won't boot unless unplug/replug power cable

This is sort of a continuation of this thread: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2538429
I seem to be having a problem many have seen. When I shut down my G4/MDD, it won't power back up unless I unplug and replug the power cable.
I have replace the system battery and reset PMU. Any other ideas?
Could the power supply or power button/board be problematic?

I think it's more likely the PSU, but the Logic Board is what everything connects to...

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MDD Won't boot unless CD tray is out

I've got a strange problem I've never seen before. I've got a dual gig MDD with combo drive that won't boot correctly unless the CD tray is out/ejected. If the tray is empty and closed, the system won't boot. If it's open, it does. Simple as that.
Can anyone point me to the solution? I don't know if I need a firmware update or what. I'm running 10.3.9. Norton's Systemworks 3.0 was run on it recently. I know that's a really bad idea, but I didn't do it. Just thinking it might be once cause of the problem.
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OK, the Norton "thang" has been beaten to death...
I would not trust the uninstaller. Many uninstallers fail to remove EVERYTHING. Whenever I run an uninstaller, I perform a manual search for any remaining software "parts." Search for anything with "Norton," "Symantec," and "Works" in its name, and, if it is in any /library or /System/Library folder, (of the /Users/Home counterparts), and if its name remotely suggests a connection to the old System Works software, move it to your desktop (so you can put it back, if necessary). Then test for the malfunction.
Still, your drive drawer issue sure seems to suggest a hardware problem, such as a short, or something (I'm hardly an electrician.:)
If you're feeling brave, why not remove the Combo Drive. If the problem goes away, you can just replace that drive (with an upgrade?).

G4 MDD 1.25 Dual won't boot unless door is left open.

G4 MDD 1.25 Dual won't boot unless door is left open.
If you shut the door, the power switch light turns off and the computer freezes. I'm running a house fan over the board to keep it cool. It's not running hot, was not running hot.
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tested ram...
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G4 MDD 1.25 Dual Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Had the exact same problem myself. After looking at this topic I noticed that one of the 5V cables was getting jammed in the bottom left hand corner of the door. The case had cut the insulation open and was obviously causing short circuit when the case closed. I put some tape around the damaged cable and tucked it inside the case. Problem solved!

My Pavillion dv9700 notebook won't boot unless I first...

My Pavillion notebook won't boot unless I first boot to a cd. Here's the problem:
I have a dv9700 notebook. It wouldn't power up. A local shop said I needed a new motherboard. I ordered one and installed it. Now when I try to boot it gets to the part where the hard drive starts to spin and suddenly shuts down only to power up again and endlessly continue this loop. I have found that if I first boot to a bootable cd and then at the cd menu choose "Start Windows" instead of "Boot to cd" the computer will start Widows Vista and run normally.
I have reseated the RAM and tried only one card at a time and switched slots. The BIOS is up to date. I have booted on ac adapter only. Battery only. Tried another ac adapter.
The BIOS hard drive diagnostic fails, showing no hard drive installed. I have tried the hard drive in a USB enclosure. It read fine. I have tried another hard drive in this computer, still reboots over and over.
I can't figure out why I need to boot to a CD first then switch to Windows Vista on the hard drive.
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MSI G31M3 V2 Motherboard Nvidia 8400gs graphics card
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Bios is loaded default - I haven't made any changes yet
The BIOS Version depends on the date the board left the factory. There is no default version. Please check your current Version for comparison.
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480w PS Sunbeam I believe
Please check the sticker on it and write down the current limits (A) on all main voltage rails (12V, 5 V and 3.3V).
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Have to unplug/replug USB cable to HP3300mfp

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I'm experiencing the same thing lately. Frustrating and unable to backup to my iDisk. Doesn't appear to be being caused by my ISP (comcast) which is surprising.
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Iphone 5 won't charge unless I wiggle the cable around to fine a spot where it works. It's not the cable/charger as it works perfectly in other iPhone 5's. I haven't even had it a year so it's still under warranty and the phone is in very good condition and has never been abused/dropped etc. I'm taking it into apple tomorrow for an appointment. Has anyone had this problem? if so, what happens? thanks

I had the same problem and took my iPhone 5 into the Apple store. What happened was a little embarrassing. The genius took out a "special tool" (a paper clip) and began digging out an unimaginable amount of lint from the lightning connector port. After that I was able to connect the cord and charge without any issues.
A few days after, I realized that my problems associated with the remote/mic not working on my ear pods might be due to the same issue. (The volume and action buttons on the ear pods sometimes were not responsive) I grabbed a paper clip and began digging. Again, a large wad of lint came out of the headphone port and my ear pods have worked perfectly since.

G4 won't start unless I unplug and replug power cable

Hello friends,
I recently picked up an old G4 MDD (dual 1.25). I am having a great time running old software, etc, save for one issue. Whenever I shut it down through the OS (Apple menu > shut down) it will not power back up unless I unplug the power cord from the back of the computer and then plug it back in. Once I do this it starts up fine. However, if I power it down by holding down the power button on the tower, then I can usually start it back up again without unplugging/replugging the power source. Any ideas?
Also, when I first got it home it did power down at random a few times. Just died on me mid-task. But it has not done this in a few weeks now, so I considered it an anomaly, but perhaps it is related?
Many thanks to the experts out there!

Stay tuned. I have some free time coming up in three weeks and am planning to devote as much as an entire day to this. I've had the same problem in one of my MDD's and a very nagging curiosity about it. It's definitely a puzzle that needs to be solved.
I believe that BDAqua is correct that the problem is with a faulty capacitor somewhere. I have several MDD's, so it will be easy for me to swap out some parts to narrow in on the problem. Then I'll start checking capacitors.
If successful, I'll post specific details.
Is that easily fixable? Does not sound like it for a newb.
If you've never soldered any components on a board, it might be a good time to call in a favor from a friend who is comfortable with such things.
If the problem is in the PSU, there could also be safety issues. Some capacitors in the PSU can hold enough juice to stop a human heart. When discharged correctly, they are perfectly safe to work with. When not discharged correctly, they can hurt you.

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(Originally posted as topic "will only boot when in Verbose mode")
When booting up, my PowerBook only gets as far as the initial black screen and audio chime. After approx. 20 seconds the hard disk/super-drive dies with a high-pitched squeak, just before it was supposed to show the grey screen and then the Apple logo.
If I hold down the Option key, it boots up fine! However, Option-V fails to display the Verbose mode messages (has only done so once after I flashed the PROM, has not done it since.)
I've re-installed Tiger 10.8.4, flashed the PROM, removed the battery and reset the Power Management Unit with 5-second power-switch, but still no change.
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I'm pretty sure it's not an issue with the OS.
* A clone of the OS on another disk boots fine - this would not boot if the issue was a system one.
* A vanilla Snow Leopard install on the same (not working disk, but 2nd partition) won't boot either. If the issue was with the system this one would boot.
* Erasing this second partition didn't help.
(I've already done all the above suggestions using Single user mode etc.)
Now a similar issue reported here:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=501768
suggests using fdisk to make the boot disk 'active'.
+A common mantra provided here to newbies for setting up for installation is:+
+Make the partition Primary+
+Make the partition ID=AF (signifies an HFS partition)+
+Make the partition Active+
+There is a built-in Unix utility in MacOSX that can be used to set your partition "Active". It is called Fdisk+
However, when I use Fdisk my disk reports a negative size:
fdisk: 1> p
Disk: /dev/rdisk3 geometry: -5415437/4/63 [-1364690128 sectors]
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Something you could try would be booting to the Snow Leopard install disk. Once at the welcome screen, choose your language and click next. At the top of the screen you will notice the menu bar appear, choose Utilities > Disk Utility. In Disk Utility choose your Mac partition, from there go to the First Aid tab and Verify the Disk and also your Disk Permissions. If any errors show up click Repair on the respective option. After that try booting to OS X again, without the Snow Leopard disk inserted.

IMac will turn on, but won't boot unless I wait until the next day

I've searched this forum, but can't seem to pinpoint my problem. I received this iMac for my office last March, and everything worked just fine. Lately, for the past 3-4 months, I can turn it on in the morning and everything runs fine.
I turn it off in the middle of the workday, thinking I won't need to use it for the rest of the day.
Of course, something comes up, and I need to turn it back on. When I press the button to turn it back on, nothing happens. Just a black screen and if it's quiet enough, I can hear the hard drive running.
It won't boot until I come back the next morning, almost as if I'm giving it time to cool off.
Any ideas?

Turn off Energy Saver and use Screen Saver instead. Energy Saver is sensitive to certain non-Apple USB devices and may cause such a problem.

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The battery light is always green, and after plugging into AC power, the battery shows a significant charge (40% on the lastest crash) once the machine actually boots. Attempting to re-update the BIOS gives a "You already have the newest BIOS" message, and I can't find the old version of the Lenovo website.

Just for future reference, if you click on the red Support tab at the top of this page, then scroll to downloads, then click Driver Matrices, this will give you a list for all the different models.
If you click one, you'll get a complete list of drivers for that model, including older versions of drivers.
You can bookmark those pages, and copy links to those pages.
It's a little easier to find things there, but you should still crosscheck that page with the driver page that you have been using to make sure you have current drivers. Sometimes updates to driver pages lag a bit.
Dave
T430u, x301, x200T, x61T, x61, x32, x41T, x40, U160, ThinkPad Tablet 1838-22R, Z500 touch, Yoga Tab 2 Windows 8.1, Yoga Tablet 3 Pro
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Windows won't boot unless a bootable CD is present

I've installed windows previously many times without any issues and consider myself to be very experienced.
I have performed a clean installation of Windows 7 Pro on an Acer Travelmate laptop. When I remove the DVD and attempt to boot the laptop recognises no bootable media.
If I run the windows installation DVD and attempt a repair, the automatic repair informs me that there is nothing wrong with the installation. Now here's the funny bit ...
If I leave the DVD in the drive the laptop asks whether I want to boot the DVD, which I ignore. The Hard drive with the installed OS boots successfully and works 100%. I have completed the installation, patched the drivers, and performed most
of the windows updates without any problems. If I remove the DVD the Hard Drive doesn't boot - If the DVD is in place the Hard Drive does boot.
HELP PLEASE

I FOUND IT !!!
The laptop was formerly installed with Windows 8 and he installed with Windows 7.
After a flight the laptop failed to boot.
In the BIOS I noticed that the drive occasionally reported as Frozen.
I followed the instructions on the Acer site and this made no difference.
Convinced that the problem related to the change from UEFI to Legacy BIOS and disk/BIOS security I decided to manually reset everything step by step. After this, the laptop booted OK and the problem was resolved. I am sure that the following
is more comprehensive than necessary, but this is the procedure I followed:
F2 - Enter BIOS
Set mode to UEFI
Save and Exit / Power Off (remove battery and supply)
Restart and F2 immediately to enter BIOS
Disable secure boot
Save and Exit / Power Off (remove battery and supply)
Restart and F2 immediately to enter BIOS
Change to Legacy Mode
Save and Exit / Power Off (remove battery and supply)
Restart and F2 immediately to enter BIOS
Set Supervisor password
Save and Exit / Power Off (remove battery and supply)
Restart and F2 immediately to enter BIOS
Enter Supervisor Password when prompted
Set Drive Password
Save and Exit / Power Off (remove battery and supply)
Restart and F2 immediately to enter BIOS
Enter Drive password when prompted
Enter Supervisor Password when prompted
Clear Drive Password
Save and Exit / Power Off (remove battery and supply)
Restart and F2 immediately to enter BIOS
Enter Supervisor Password when prompted
Clear Supervisor Password
Save and Exit / Power Off (remove battery and supply)
Restart and the drive was detected and booted 100%
I hope this helps someone else
Jonathan

ADC Apple Display only works by unplugging-replugging power source

I recently replaced my PRAM battery due to the following issues:
1. The ADC Cinema Display quit
2. I kept getting a "update time manually message
3. I lost connection with an external
I replaced the battery and it solved the external disk mounting, but I have to continually reset my pram by unplugging to get the cinema display to get it to work. I have reset the pmu button (for 1 second) . I have done an Apple/option pr startup pram reset. Funny thing is that it started up to the original drive. I have 3 drive slots occupied. The original drive is still in the same drive slot Don't know if this could be an issue.
Okay, I just did another restart after the screen went dead again. It didn't connect. I am unplugging, waiting 30 seconds, replugging, and waahla... the display is on. It just went off again after about a minute. I hit to on button and it didn't start. I disconnected the power this time and it restarts and the display is on. Anyone have a clue on this one?????

Allan,
Thanks for the reply. I'm running NVIDIA Geoforce4 T 4500 128mb, the original card. I have no usb cords plugged into the display. I never unplug it except in storms. I'm unplugging/replugging just recently to get the display to work. I have had the computer since 2002 and just replaced the pram battery yesterday. I'm not using any cable adapters. I have 2 extra drives installed in addition to the original ibm. All drives are ATA. Interestingly, if I zap the pram, as I did for the first remedy, it restarts not in my start up drive (WD 320), but to the original drive running Tiger (ibm 120). I'm thinking about changing drive slots, but I don't know if that will do anything, just a guess.
Steve

S20 Won't boot to windows with network cable connected

S20-4157, Windows 7 x64
Every time I reboot my machine, I have to unplug the network cable. I can plug it back in after I log in. If I don't, it gets stuck on the windows startup screen.
I think this is related to the lenovo power manager. I get the following event log error on boot:
The following boot-start or system-start driver(s) failed to load:
TPPWRIF
When I go to control panel, and start the power manager app, it does not start. Locked up with splash screen. I tried uninstalling the program as well, and cannot. Get an "unable to run on this system" message when I try to uninstall.

That's odd to say the least. DId this app come installed from the factory? I'm not sure why a thinkpad power manager utility would be included in our preloads. The fact that you're not able to uninstall it sort of concerns me. Have you tried uninstalling via safemode or when logged in as administrator?

G4 MDD won't boot unless unplug/replug power cable

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