G5b varied problems hard to trouble shoot

I have a dual 1.8 GHz Power PC G5 made in 2003. I have always had various problems with it. About a year ago the power supply went, and the computer sat dead until last week when I had a new one put in (I live in Tokyo and this cost me ¥50,000 or about $500.00. Since then the fans rev up (I think it's fans and not the HD) which they have done since I bought this machine, and system log shows "Oct 1 01:20:41 cavalier-duanes-Computer kernel[0]: Fan failure!" over and over again (every second, and this is a new one), but the fans are working. In addition, twice (since I got it back) it has just suddenly shut down. Will not restart until I unplug it for about 10 seconds. One of the times it restarted in "unix mode" for some reason. These are the latest problems.
I use a lot of different macs and operating systems as I have a small business and use everything from old blueberry imacs running 10.2 to new macboo ks running 10.5 (and many machines in between). I know a some about trouble shooting macs,but I am stumped.
Over the years this G5 has froze many times, froze and showed a semi-transparent black screen in several languages telling me some major error has occured, froze and fans go wild, volume goes to silent and slider control won't respond and I've lost all data twice and had to completely reinstall OS. These are the things I can remember. There have been more. The problems are so varied I have no idea what to do. Any ideas on what may be the underlying cause.
By the way it has passed hardware tests in the past (haven't done one recently, but the problems are not new). I've zapped and zapped the pram, done fsck many a time, and run disk utility up the whazoo. Would be thankful for any help.

Hi Duane,
A "[0]: Fan failure!" appears to be a power supply fan failure, only. Is the repair still under warranty?
A hard drive crash will cause data loss/corruption. This is due to damaged sectors on the disk, caused by a sudden loss of power, unconditioned power or just age. When this occurs, the drive is on its way out and it is best to replace the HD before a total failure.
Install a new disk along with the defective one, install the OS and immediately migrate all of your data, including User Accounts, using Migration Assistant. You should be up and running in no-time.
Regards

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  • TROUBLE SHOOTING PROBLEM ON SQL*NET, NET8.X, AND NET SERVICES

    제품 : SQL*NET
    작성날짜 : 2002-11-24
    TROUBLE SHOOTING PROBLEM ON SQL*NET, NET8.X, AND NET SERVICES
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    이 글은 고객들이 Oracle Server의 Oracle Networking 제품들을 사용하다가
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    빈도가 낮거나 network나 server 쪽에 이상을 느끼시면서도 문제를 확인하기
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    Oracle 제품은 software이기는 하나 매우 완벽한 수준의 제품이라고 할
    수 있습니다. 그러나 Oracle 제품은 하나의 OS의 process로써 실행이
    되고 시간이 지나며 많은 환경이 major upgrade가 되면서 그러한 환경
    에 따라 Oracle software도 새로운 version으로 제작이 되면서 다시
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    이런 경우 relink를 해주어 바뀐 OS환경에서 Oracle 실행 file들을 다
    시 만들어 주어야 합니다.
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    c. Certify된 환경에서도 원인을 찾을 수 없는 경우 trace file을 가지고
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    Reference Documents
    Chapter 17 Trouble shooting Oracle Net Services
    Oracle 9i Net Services Administrator's Guide
    SQL*Net, Net8.x, Net Services 9.x Network Administration Guide/Reference

    제품 : SQL*NET
    작성날짜 : 2002-11-24
    TROUBLE SHOOTING PROBLEM ON SQL*NET, NET8.X, AND NET SERVICES
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    ==========================================================
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    빈도가 낮거나 network나 server 쪽에 이상을 느끼시면서도 문제를 확인하기
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    아니면, prompt$ cd $ORACLE_HOME/network/admin
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    # 다음 line들을 추가
    TRACE_LEVEL_client=16
    TRACE_FILE_client=<filename>
    TRACE_DIRECTORY_client=<directory>
    TRACE_UNIQUE_client=TRUE
    :wq
    prompt$
    예를 들어, client가 Windows OS인 경우 다음과 같이 합니다.
    prompt> notepad sqlnet.ora
    TRACE_LEVEL_client=16
    TRACE_FILE_client=client
    TRACE_DIRECTORY_client=D:\temp
    TRACE_UNIQUE_client=TRUE
    prompt>
    d. SQL*Plus와 같은, 또는 사용하던 Client software를 계속 이용
    e. 다시 문제가 발생
    f. 작성된 trace file들의 날자를 보아 문제가 발생한 시간과
    거의 같은 시간에 작성된 file들이 있는지 확인
    prompt> dir D:\temp
    client_<PID1>.trc ...
    client_<PID2>.trc ...
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    prompt$ vi sqlnet.ora
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    h. Trace Assistant를 이용하여 Oracle Networking 제품의 error code
    (이하 TNS error code)를 trace file에서 찾아냅니다.
    prompt$ cd <directory of TRACE_DIRECTORY_client>
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    Oracle 9.x의 Trace Assistant를 사용할 것을 권합니다.
    i. oerr command로 tns error에 대한 error message를 봅니다.
    예를 들어, 흔한 경우 중에 listener가 실행 중이지 않거나 잘못된
    tnsnames.ora 설정으로 client가 listener가 service 중이지 않은
    network address로 연결을 시도하다가 TNS-12541 TNS-12560 TNS-511
    error가 차례대로 나왔다면 다음과 같이 하여 각 TNS error code에
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    prompt$ oerr tns 12541
    prompt$ oerr tns 12560
    prompt$ oerr tns 511
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    에서 검색하여 같은 case가 있는지 확인합니다.
    Web browser에서:
    1) Go to http://metalink.oracle.com, then login
    오른쪽 위 HTML frame에서 :
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    TNSPING_TRACE_DIRECTORY=<directory>
    :wq
    prompt$ tnsping <tns alias>
    3. Server, 즉 listener에 문제가 있다고 생각되는 경우 우선 listener의
    log file을 봅니다. listener의 log에 대해서는 bulletin.18364를
    이용합니다.
    4. listener의 trace file은 다음과 같이 설정합니다.
    listener의 trace 설정은 parameter 이름에 trace file을 작성하고자 하는
    listener의 이름이 오는 점, 설정 후 listener process를 restart해야 하는
    점 두 가지를 제외하면 나머지 절차가 앞서 설명드린 client와 같습니다.
    prompt$ vi listener.ora
    TRACE_LEVEL_<listener name>=16
    TRACE_FILE_<listener name>=<filename>
    TRACE_DIRECTORY_<listener name>=<directory>
    :wq
    prompt$ lsnrctl stop <listener name>
    prompt$ lsnrctl start <listener name>
    5. 만일 위와 같이 http://metalink.oracle.com을 검색하여도
    같은 case가 전혀 없거나 찾아낸 error message들이 원인과 관련이 없어
    보일정도로 매우 이상한 경우 다음과 같이 해봅니다.
    a. Oracle Software의 version과 OS의 version이 certification matrix에
    있는 지 확인합니다.
    Web browser에서:
    1) Go to http://metalink.oracle.com, then login
    왼쪽 menu에서 :
    2) "Certify & Availabilty" menu item을 click합니다.
    오른쪽 아래 HTML frame에서:
    3) 현재 사용중인 Product와 그 version 및 OS와 그 version을 선택하
    여 검색합니다.
    Certification Matrix는 매우 정확하게 정보를 보여주고 있습니다.
    Matrix에 없는 Oracle Product와 OS version은 certify되어 있지 않으며
    모든 Oracle 제품을 Certify되지 않은 OS version에서 사용하는 것은
    그 어떠한 이유로든 보증과 지원이 되지 않습니다.
    만일 사용중인 제품이 certify되지 않은 경우, 무조건 certify된 제품
    과 OS의 version으로 install하여 다시 시도를 해야 합니다.
    예를 들어, Windows OS의 경우 그 어떠한 Oracle 제품도 Windows Me 및
    Windows XP Home Edition에 certify되어 있지 않습니다.
    Windows 2000 Professional 이상에 Certify된 제품은 Oracle 8.1.6부터
    이며 XP Professional 이상에 Certify된 제품은 Oracle 9.0.1부터
    입니다.
    Oracle 제품은 software이기는 하나 매우 완벽한 수준의 제품이라고 할
    수 있습니다. 그러나 Oracle 제품은 하나의 OS의 process로써 실행이
    되고 시간이 지나며 많은 환경이 major upgrade가 되면서 그러한 환경
    에 따라 Oracle software도 새로운 version으로 제작이 되면서 다시
    certification이 이루어지게 됩니다.
    그렇기 때문에 고객들은 특히 다수의 client나 고가의 server를 계획하
    시는 고객들은 저희 certification matrix를 사전에 철저히 확인하셔야
    합니다.
    앞서 Certification Matrix이전에 Installation Guide에 명시된
    OS version만이 certify되어 있다고 생각하시면 되겠습니다.
    b. Unix에서는 Oracle Software를 install한 후 OS의 Networking patch를
    씌우고 사용하다보면 문제가 되는 경우가 있습니다.
    이런 경우 relink를 해주어 바뀐 OS환경에서 Oracle 실행 file들을 다
    시 만들어 주어야 합니다.
    자세한 내용은 http://metalink.oracle.com에서
    다음 글을 읽어 보시기 바랍니다.
    Note:131321.1 How to Relink Oracle Database Software on UNIX
    c. Certify된 환경에서도 원인을 찾을 수 없는 경우 trace file을 가지고
    Oracle Support Services에 문의를 합니다. (지원 계약 고객에 한함)
    Reference Documents
    Chapter 17 Trouble shooting Oracle Net Services
    Oracle 9i Net Services Administrator's Guide
    SQL*Net, Net8.x, Net Services 9.x Network Administration Guide/Reference

  • Trouble shooting problem/ via tech. issue

    on grow computer triied to install flash for video watch.not connecting to computer. read instructions of installation. not responsing to host. customer tech. can reboot from station, quick installation return to auto play. email if can help trouble  shooting issue. [email protected]

    To help troubleshoot we'll need the following system information:
    Operating   system  
    Browser  
    Flash   Player version
    When reporting issues with video or audio, it's also helpful to get your system hardware and driver details.  Instructions for finding this information can be found here:
    Windows  
    Mac
    Finally, sometimes video and audio problems are caused at a lower level and not directly related to Flash Player.  I recommend trying both of the links below to see how they perform.  If the problem exists with both, then Flash Player is most likely not the culprit as the HTML5 video link does not use Flash Player when playing.  You can verify the use of HTML5 by right clicking the HTML5 video and looking for the words "About HTML5" at the bottom of the context menu.
    HTML5   video  
    Non-HTML5 video

  • Trouble shoot mac problems on a pc?

    I am developing my AIR project on a PC, the project runs as
    desired on the PC, but is having several problems on the Mac I am
    testing on.
    It is becoming extremely painful trying to trouble shoot the
    problem, I have to change 1 line at a time, then compile the .air
    file, then install it on the mac, then see if theres a difference.
    (I cant use the debuger on my pc because its running fine on the
    pc).
    so I was wondering if anyone knew a better way to trouble
    shoot this?
    Thanks.

    You can use the SDK to run on the Mac without installing.

  • I am not able to update ios 5 to my iphone4, i am getting the error code 3259. i have trouble shooted my computer, but again i am getting the same problem. i tried more than 5 times

    i am not able to update ios 5 to my iphone4, i am getting the error code 3259. i have trouble shooted my computer, but again i am getting the same problem. i tried more than 5 times

    Try updating via iTunes.

  • How can I back up ipad on icloud? Keep getting message "There was a problem completing the back up. Please try again later." I have, many times! The trouble shooting info does not resolve the problem.

    How can I back up ipad on icloud? I keep getting the message "There was a problem completing the back up. Please try again later." I have done so MANY times! I've followed the instructions ( I believe!) and the trouble shooting info does not resolve the problem. Can you please help?

    I had this exact same problem because the router i had in my house was having interference issues and the speed was too slow to do it.
    I would download a speedtest app on your iPad and see how fast your internet is.  I think the app is called speedtest in fact.

  • My iPhone 5 says unable to connect to network. I have tried all the trouble shooting...resetting phone, router... No change. Problem occurs everywhere not just at home. Any suggestions?

    My iPhone 5 says unable to connect to network. I have tried all the trouble shooting...resetting phone, router... No change. Problem occurs everywhere not just at home. Any suggestions?

    AmishCake wrote:
    Have you tried restoring your softwareyes
    yes I have

  • How can i know more trouble shooting issues/Real time problems and thier solutions?

    Hi to every one.
    i am Technician in a reputed mnc company. I am new to Microsoft servers. I learned MCSE 2008 and have basic trouble shooting knowledge.To improve my knowledge on these servers and how can i know real issues in a company occurs , solution to them. Please
    help me to get more knowledge on these servers.
    I am waiting for your reply.
    Thanks  & Regards,
    Praveen

    If you want to know more about issues related to your own internal servers, I'd simply start by reviewing the event logs and running perfmon in the short term to look for issues.  For more long term management and monitoring I'd look to a tool
    like System Center Operations Manager:
    http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/hh205987.aspx
    For general troubleshooting skills growth, I'd stick around these forums and just read issues as they occur and try to assist with resolving some that you feel you can.
    Please remember, if you see a post that helped you please click "Vote As Helpful" and if it answered your question please click "Mark As Answer".
    SWC Unified Communications

  • Kisight: How do I get my iSight working ?  Trouble Shooting an iSight Camera.  (Version 3)

    Replacement for the second draft of this Thread   (To be removed if Published as Tip)
    kisight: How do I get my iSight working ?
    Trouble Shooting an iSight Camera.  (Version 3)
    Hi,     On many subjects Apple has Articles and Documents that can help.
    In some case they are written by an Engineer or similar and can miss the mark for the average user.
    In other cases they are crafted, detailed responses to an issue that has popped up many times in the Apple Discussions and take the best from many responses in those User-to-User Discussions, creating something that can not be surpassed.
    This is the case of the Apple Article HT2090 on Trouble Shooting an iSight.
    It lists steps and processes to go through for both Internal iSights and External ones.
    However as with most things it does sometime pay to reword things differently so that people grasp the points in language they understand.
    The info here is a reworking itself of two pages at ralphjohns.co.uk/EZ Jim pages namely EZ JIm's page 2 Where can I Find Help With My iSight ? and his page 4, How Can I Test My iSight is Completely Functional ?  which were written several years ago and predate the Apple Article, being aimed at the External iSight.  They have been updated since to address the Internal iSight as well but some of the comments are useful between the two types.
    External First.  For Internal iSights Start at 2b)  (you will need to adjust some options/steps as the Internal is USB)
    Steps
    1) Pre Purchase
    If buying an External iSight you should if you an get to see it in action.Apple no longer sells the External iSight so you will be buying it second hand.If you cannot get to see the device plugged in and working on  Mac then check the smaller print of the seller and selling site as to nature of Returns and Faulty Goods.
    2) Does it work ?
    a) First of all Plug it in.  It should come with a suitable mount (although there are variants on this) and a 6 pin to 6 pin Firewire cable.
    Ideally it should have it's own Firewire port/socket on your computer. Connecting it "DaisyChained" to other devices can be a problem as they do not all use Firewire at the same Data speed.
    It will then go through some checks as the OS powers it up and checks it's firmware.
    Do not be concerned that the little green indicator light atop your iSight illuminates for a few seconds and then goes dark when you first connect your iSight or power on your Mac. Do not be concerned if you hear a soft whir as iSight attempt to focus either. Both these occurrences are normal. If your iSight passes the following tests, do not worry about this sound or the status of the green light.
    There is no ON switch as such.  It does have an iris mechanism that can be controlled by the User.  The iris should be turned so you can see the Lens for the iSight to send pictures to an application.
    b) Pick an Application to see the picture the iSight produces.iChat is one application you can use. Photobooth is another. iMovie (Version 4 or above for external iSight -- Version 6 or above for in-built iSight) and Comic Book (if bundled on your Mac) are yet more.
    See this Users Tip for more applications Or this page for yet more.
    Photo Booth is probably the simplest as it has no Preferences to choose a camera in the original version and is done from the Menu items in later versions  (nor is there any setting in the OS) and Photo Booth will default to the External Camera if one is plugged in before the application is started.     If you see your self or what the camera is pointing at, It Works !!
    3) If it does Not Work
    a) Check Cables/leads.  Re-seat the cable at both ends. DO this carefully as although Firewire cables are keyed to fit the right way it has been known to force them the wrong way.
    Try another 6 pin to 6 pin firewire cable.
    b) Unplug the cable from any other FireWire device and give the iSight it's Own FireWire port/socket on the Mac (exclude issues with other FireWire devices). It is important that this be a port/socket on your computer and that you know that it works. Do not use a port in a FireWire hub or another FireWire device or a FireWire port in an Apple Display for testing.  (Also see d below if you have an 800 FIreWIre Computer)
    c) Check System Profiler (Apple Icon menu top Left > About this Mac. > More Info Button)Open the Reveal Triangles to see the list and go to Hardware > FireWire.  (Use USB for Internal Cameras)
    If it appears here try booting or Logging in as another user on the Mac (Create a Test account if you don't have one) and try item 2b) above again.
    d) With FireWire 800 computers you may have to change your FireWire 400 to 800 Adaptor or Cable to get full Audio functionality with Lion Apps
    If it is not in the System Profiler you are almost certainly going to need the Trouble Shooting Article from Apple at this point.  This Article may also be of help (number HT1317 What to do if your computer won't recognise a FireWire or USB device).
    If you have not resolved things at this stage it is going to be time for an Engineer with Apple credentials.There are no user serviceable parts inside any iSight.
    Other Items
    Audio.
    The External Camera has two mics inside.The volume it records at or plays through for iChat is controlled in System Preferences > Sound > Input tab (select device) and this should be set to get the blue response bar to at least half way (preferably three quarters) when you talk.The same applies to any other Mic, even the Internal one on laptops and some other Macs.
    Firmware.
    The System Profiler as detailed above should tell you the Firmware the iSight has.  The current version is 1.0.3 and was updated in Panther.  (Essentially it is an Audio compatibility update but does seem to help in other situations)
    If your computer is running Panther (10.2.x) then use this Updater
    If running Tiger (10.4.x) or Leopard (10.5.x) then navigate manually to your Hard Drive/System/Library/Core Services/iSight Updater and run the updater found there.
    If an iSight is Plugged in on the Computer when you do an  OS update and the firmware needs updating on the iSight this app is supposed to be triggered but it seem it may need a hand at times.
    Focusing on the External iSight
    Essentially the External iSight is self or Autofocusing.
    If in doubt then try better lighting and strong colours as opposes to light or pastels.
    (All built-in iSights are fixed focus. Therefore, unless a built-in iSight lens cover is dirty or smudged, any built-in iSight whose image is blurry needs service by an Engineer with Apple credentials.)
    EZ Jim has these more specific recommendations for piece of mind.
      Make a cross whose lines are about one-half inch or more wide on a plain background to use as a focus target. (I have even used black electrical tape.)
    Turn on plenty of light and hold the target very still at about two or three feet from the lens. Watch iSight focus. (You may need to use a tripod or brace yourself to hold the target still enough.)
    Then quickly move the target and hold it very still at about one foot away from the lens. Watch iSight focus.
      Finally, move in to about six inches from iSight, and check focus there, too. (Holding the target still is more important as you get closer to iSight.)
    This Users Tip by Ian Bickerstaff  can give you clues for any application really  "Look  and sound good in iChat"
    Other Info and Links
    iSight Support info at Apple Links to Users Guide, Manual and many other topics on the External iSight.
    Apple's iSight Firewire Connectivity FAQs
    Apple's iSight Service FAQs
    If you feel you have not understood or think you have not grasped something here or in the links so far try the iSight Discussion Forum
    1:13 PM      Saturday; October 8, 2011
    Please, if posting Logs, do not post any Log info after the line "Binary Images for iChat"
     G4/1GhzDual MDD (Leopard 10.5.8)
     MacBookPro 2Gb( 10.6.8)
     Mac OS X (10.6.8),
    "Limit the Logs to the Bits above Binary Images."  No, Seriously

    Replacement for the second draft of this Thread   (To be removed if Published as Tip)
    kisight: How do I get my iSight working ?
    Trouble Shooting an iSight Camera.  (Version 3)
    Hi,     On many subjects Apple has Articles and Documents that can help.
    In some case they are written by an Engineer or similar and can miss the mark for the average user.
    In other cases they are crafted, detailed responses to an issue that has popped up many times in the Apple Discussions and take the best from many responses in those User-to-User Discussions, creating something that can not be surpassed.
    This is the case of the Apple Article HT2090 on Trouble Shooting an iSight.
    It lists steps and processes to go through for both Internal iSights and External ones.
    However as with most things it does sometime pay to reword things differently so that people grasp the points in language they understand.
    The info here is a reworking itself of two pages at ralphjohns.co.uk/EZ Jim pages namely EZ JIm's page 2 Where can I Find Help With My iSight ? and his page 4, How Can I Test My iSight is Completely Functional ?  which were written several years ago and predate the Apple Article, being aimed at the External iSight.  They have been updated since to address the Internal iSight as well but some of the comments are useful between the two types.
    External First.  For Internal iSights Start at 2b)  (you will need to adjust some options/steps as the Internal is USB)
    Steps
    1) Pre Purchase
    If buying an External iSight you should if you an get to see it in action.Apple no longer sells the External iSight so you will be buying it second hand.If you cannot get to see the device plugged in and working on  Mac then check the smaller print of the seller and selling site as to nature of Returns and Faulty Goods.
    2) Does it work ?
    a) First of all Plug it in.  It should come with a suitable mount (although there are variants on this) and a 6 pin to 6 pin Firewire cable.
    Ideally it should have it's own Firewire port/socket on your computer. Connecting it "DaisyChained" to other devices can be a problem as they do not all use Firewire at the same Data speed.
    It will then go through some checks as the OS powers it up and checks it's firmware.
    Do not be concerned that the little green indicator light atop your iSight illuminates for a few seconds and then goes dark when you first connect your iSight or power on your Mac. Do not be concerned if you hear a soft whir as iSight attempt to focus either. Both these occurrences are normal. If your iSight passes the following tests, do not worry about this sound or the status of the green light.
    There is no ON switch as such.  It does have an iris mechanism that can be controlled by the User.  The iris should be turned so you can see the Lens for the iSight to send pictures to an application.
    b) Pick an Application to see the picture the iSight produces.iChat is one application you can use. Photobooth is another. iMovie (Version 4 or above for external iSight -- Version 6 or above for in-built iSight) and Comic Book (if bundled on your Mac) are yet more.
    See this Users Tip for more applications Or this page for yet more.
    Photo Booth is probably the simplest as it has no Preferences to choose a camera in the original version and is done from the Menu items in later versions  (nor is there any setting in the OS) and Photo Booth will default to the External Camera if one is plugged in before the application is started.     If you see your self or what the camera is pointing at, It Works !!
    3) If it does Not Work
    a) Check Cables/leads.  Re-seat the cable at both ends. DO this carefully as although Firewire cables are keyed to fit the right way it has been known to force them the wrong way.
    Try another 6 pin to 6 pin firewire cable.
    b) Unplug the cable from any other FireWire device and give the iSight it's Own FireWire port/socket on the Mac (exclude issues with other FireWire devices). It is important that this be a port/socket on your computer and that you know that it works. Do not use a port in a FireWire hub or another FireWire device or a FireWire port in an Apple Display for testing.  (Also see d below if you have an 800 FIreWIre Computer)
    c) Check System Profiler (Apple Icon menu top Left > About this Mac. > More Info Button)Open the Reveal Triangles to see the list and go to Hardware > FireWire.  (Use USB for Internal Cameras)
    If it appears here try booting or Logging in as another user on the Mac (Create a Test account if you don't have one) and try item 2b) above again.
    d) With FireWire 800 computers you may have to change your FireWire 400 to 800 Adaptor or Cable to get full Audio functionality with Lion Apps
    If it is not in the System Profiler you are almost certainly going to need the Trouble Shooting Article from Apple at this point.  This Article may also be of help (number HT1317 What to do if your computer won't recognise a FireWire or USB device).
    If you have not resolved things at this stage it is going to be time for an Engineer with Apple credentials.There are no user serviceable parts inside any iSight.
    Other Items
    Audio.
    The External Camera has two mics inside.The volume it records at or plays through for iChat is controlled in System Preferences > Sound > Input tab (select device) and this should be set to get the blue response bar to at least half way (preferably three quarters) when you talk.The same applies to any other Mic, even the Internal one on laptops and some other Macs.
    Firmware.
    The System Profiler as detailed above should tell you the Firmware the iSight has.  The current version is 1.0.3 and was updated in Panther.  (Essentially it is an Audio compatibility update but does seem to help in other situations)
    If your computer is running Panther (10.2.x) then use this Updater
    If running Tiger (10.4.x) or Leopard (10.5.x) then navigate manually to your Hard Drive/System/Library/Core Services/iSight Updater and run the updater found there.
    If an iSight is Plugged in on the Computer when you do an  OS update and the firmware needs updating on the iSight this app is supposed to be triggered but it seem it may need a hand at times.
    Focusing on the External iSight
    Essentially the External iSight is self or Autofocusing.
    If in doubt then try better lighting and strong colours as opposes to light or pastels.
    (All built-in iSights are fixed focus. Therefore, unless a built-in iSight lens cover is dirty or smudged, any built-in iSight whose image is blurry needs service by an Engineer with Apple credentials.)
    EZ Jim has these more specific recommendations for piece of mind.
      Make a cross whose lines are about one-half inch or more wide on a plain background to use as a focus target. (I have even used black electrical tape.)
    Turn on plenty of light and hold the target very still at about two or three feet from the lens. Watch iSight focus. (You may need to use a tripod or brace yourself to hold the target still enough.)
    Then quickly move the target and hold it very still at about one foot away from the lens. Watch iSight focus.
      Finally, move in to about six inches from iSight, and check focus there, too. (Holding the target still is more important as you get closer to iSight.)
    This Users Tip by Ian Bickerstaff  can give you clues for any application really  "Look  and sound good in iChat"
    Other Info and Links
    iSight Support info at Apple Links to Users Guide, Manual and many other topics on the External iSight.
    Apple's iSight Firewire Connectivity FAQs
    Apple's iSight Service FAQs
    If you feel you have not understood or think you have not grasped something here or in the links so far try the iSight Discussion Forum
    1:13 PM      Saturday; October 8, 2011
    Please, if posting Logs, do not post any Log info after the line "Binary Images for iChat"
     G4/1GhzDual MDD (Leopard 10.5.8)
     MacBookPro 2Gb( 10.6.8)
     Mac OS X (10.6.8),
    "Limit the Logs to the Bits above Binary Images."  No, Seriously

  • Trouble shooting the export function

    I am a new user to CS4 Premiere 4.1.0 as part of my master suite program bought 2 weeks ago. I can't find any trouble shooting help or explanation of error messages in the program's help section; I have tried most of the trouble shooting steps (other than reinstalling the entire suite) from the knowledge base on the Adobe site without any success; and finally would like someone on this forum to rescue my newly installed Premiere from disaster. Here is my problem:
    ---- when exporting utilizing the media encoder; after exporting and clicking on the encoder to start , the program would come back with the following error message " PProheadless has encountered an error. [..\..\Src\Remote Import Module. Cpp-250]". I can't find any reference to this error code and how to fix it on the Adobe website. I have tried to fix it for days now without any results. Without being able to fix this my programs are useless to me.
    Not finding any reference on the Adobe manual to the error code or how to trouble shoot the program is really demoralizing and disappointing to me. You can see PProHeadless as a program on the computer's hard drive but you won't find any reference to this program throughout the Adobe website.
    For reference my hardware specs. are: i7 920 CPU, 6 G DDR3, Asus P6T professional work station main board, 160 G SSD SATA C-Drive, 1 tera byte SATA D and E drives, the GPU is nvidia GTX 285 with 1 GB ram, 1000 Watt power supply in a mini tower, plus Sony Blue ray, OS is Vista 64 premium. The computer is dedicated to editing video. All programs are loaded on C; the D drive is used as working space and virtual ram. E drive is for storage. The only other program running is Avast anti-virus program. The file exporting problem stays even when Avast is uninstalled. All the devise drivers are Vista 64 compatible. The computer is brand new; dedicated to Premiere - not even Microsoft word is loaded.
    In addition to the above exporting problem, every time I switch between loaded programs such as between Premiere and Firefox, the cursor would stay in the "wait" mode, i.e. in a spinning circle,  for about a minute before turning into an arrow in Premiere. It almost feels like Premiere has to reload the ram all over again; this is really annoying and time wasting.
    If I have known of these issues, I would have bought a Mac Pro with Mac software in the first place.
    I would really appreciate some help from friends and experts on this forum. Thank you.

    Do you have a dynamic or fixed dimension table?
    Looks like you have a fixed dimension table here...
    Using -> [*] is to specify each instances of that object inside the subform specified... Here if you have more than one PSI into Row5 it would work... But as I understand you have to write only Avg(Row3.PSI, Row4.PSI, Row4.PSI)
    If you have a dynamic table and your row is only named Row1... each instances of the row would be Row1[0], Row1[1], Row1[2]
    So in your Average function you would only write :
    Avg(Row1[*].PSI) and it would return the average of each rows

  • MacOS X 10.4: Basic trouble-shooting

    Here is a check-list for some basic, unspecific trouble-shooting.
    1. Restart the computer
    2. Deactivate/Uninstall system haxies and third-party extensions (e.g. ASM, Norton AntiVirus, etc.)
    3. Check/fix the filesystem as outlined in this article: Using Disk Utility and fsck for file system maintenance in Mac OS X and Using Disk Utility in Mac OS X 10.4.3 or later to verify or repair disks
    4. Check for at least 5 GB of free space on the boot volume. Mac OS X needs at least that amount in order to run properly.
    5. Repair permissions: Go to Applications > Utilities > Disk Utility, choose your HD in the sidebar and click "Repair Permissions"
    6. If one specific application gives you a headache, trash it's preference-file (User/Library/Preferences or in case of system "programs"
    in Library/Preferences).
    7. Create a new user account, and see if the problem persists.
    8. Clear system & user caches with either Tiger Cache Cleaner or Cocktail.
    9. Unplug all USB- and Firewire devices except original Apple mouse and keyboard.
    10. Startup in Safe-mode and see if the problem persists: Starting up in Safe Mode
    11. Repair and replace the directory with DiskWarrior or TechTool Pro 4
    12. Zap PRAM: How to Reset PRAM and NVRAM
    13. Unplug 3rd Party PCI cards.
    14. Reinstall the latest combo updater.
    15. Check the hard drive for bad blocks (e.g. with Drive 10 or TechTool Pro 4).
    16. Take out 3rd party RAM.
    17. Run the Apple hardware diagnostic CD.
    18. Reset PMU: Resetting Power Management Unit (PMU), Power Mac G4 (AGP Graphics/Gigabit Ethernet): Resetting the PMU on the Logic Board, Resetting PowerBook and iBook Power Management Unit (PMU)
    19. Reinstall the system from scratch ( http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=607614

    4. Check for at least 5 GB of free space on the boot volume. Mac OS X needs at least that amount in order to run properly.
    Mac OS X 10.4 will work properly with less free space; about 2 or 3GB is enough. I currently have 4.03GB free on my Mac OS X 10.4 system, which is on a 7.3GB partition.
    6. If one specific application gives you a headache, trash it's preference-file (User/Library/Preferences or in case of system "programs" in Library/Preferences)
    The first path should reference the folder in the Finder's sidebar or choosing Go to Folder from the Finder's Go menu and entering ~/Library/Preferences as the location. A home folder does not need to be in /Users/, and in any case, the file should be left on the desktop temporarily instead of being immediately deleted.
    You may also want to mention display issues which are account-specific; these include colors looking washed out, the monitor's colors being inverted, and a black box appearing on random items. These can be turned off from the Universal Access pane of System Preferences.
    (19916)

  • I can't log into my iTunes account. I logger out a few days ago to trouble shoot because I was trying to redeem some iTunes cards but when i pressed redeem nothing happened. Now when i press sign in and then choose existing Apple ID, nothing happens

    I can't log into my iTunes account on my iPhone 5s. I logged out a few days ago to trouble shoot because I was trying to redeem some iTunes cards but when i pressed redeem nothing happened. I then tried to log back in immediately afterwards. I was unable to do so. After clicking "sign in" at the bottom of the apps main page, it brought up another menu where I clicked "Choose existing Apple ID". After pressing this the menu disappeared and nothing happened. I tried this multiple times and received the same result each time. I tried the other available option of creating a new AP ID to log in with and that one worked perfectly fine. I am clueless as to why the log in for me is either not able to load or just completely blocking me from getting back into my iTunes account on my phone. Not only can I not listen to the music I currently have, but I cannot log in to purchase the new music that I wanted to with my unused iTunes gift cards

    I have the same problem too and tried alot of things like time zone , restarting or changing DNS of wifi connection to 8.8.8.8 still nothing happens .. !!
    iPhone 5s, iOS 8.3

  • Trouble shooting guide! Read this first!!!! rev 13-1-2004

    (Revision 13-1-2004)  
    Hi there,
    Follow everything on the list, even if it doesn't look like it would solve your problem, most problems are created somewhere else!
    To give some examples:
    CPU won't run FSB133....mostly powersupply or CPU-cooler.
    Videocard won't load drivers....mostly powersupply.
    Sound won't work.....mostly metal-standoff's.
    Windows won't install, file read error.....mostly CPU-cooler, Bad-ram or powersupply.
    That is why you need to go over the entire list and check all!
    Before you start doing anything, remove the power and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. If you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!  
    Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
    There are several reasons why this happens.....to name the most commen:
    CPU speeds  
    You have a Duron, that CPU is 100FSB!
    You have a Athlon(XP) and it's showing the wrong speed, set the CPU-FSB to 133....
    Or 166 when it's a FSB333 CPU....or 200 when it's a FSB400 CPU....
    Some boards have a jumper to set it, other do it in the BIOS.
    Check your manual for this.
    Speeds must be:
    Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
    Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
    Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
    Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
    Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
    Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
    Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
    Use this link to see if your motherboard actually supports your CPU.
    The TBred CPU's (0.13) start from XP-1700 and up, but not all boards support this CPU and they either show on the D-LED all red or don't start at all!!
    The K7T266pro2 is an exception, it can be made to support the TBred CPU's, on this link you find all the info on how to make it work.
    Many reports have told us that FSB333 CPU's work on KT3-Ultra boards work just fine, but it's unsupported by MSI, we don't know why....
    As for mulipliers with AMD CPU's, just set them Automatic, as they are hardcoded on the CPU themselves and will allway's be correctly, even if if you think the BIOS doesn't know it.
    How to recognise the CPU:
    If you look on the dice, there are letters after the speed.
    The last letter will tell you the FSB of the CPU.
    B=100MHz (=200DDR)
    C=133MHz (=266DDR)
    D=166MHz (=333DDR)
    E=200MHz (=400DDR)
    To recognise a CPU quickly, checkout this link.
    Thanks Mellops.
    The MHz setting must match your setting in the BIOS for FSB value, as it translates to the correct FSB setting for the CPU.
    The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
    Detailed information on the code can be found in this AMD document. (Thanks Hans)
    CPU Cooling  
    CPU cooler not made for your CPU, check if it can handle your CPU....
    CPU cooler mounted wrong!, take it off and check it as it will fit 2 way's, but only 1 is the right one, examine very carefull!
    The cooler has a lower part that needs to go over the bump (higher part) of the socket, if it's not over there it won't cool the entire dice and WILL give you trouble.
    Also check if it's making contact with the entire dice of the CPU...
    Make sure you regrease it again, the same grease/paste can't be used twice!
    YOU MAY NEVER USE A THERMALPAD OR GREASE AGAIN! APPLY NEW EVERY TIME YOU TAKE THE COOLER OFF!!  
    top 2 show how not to do it
    Used too much silver-grease! It will shorten the bridges on the CPU, clean it and use white-paste.
    (Silver-paste is not recommended in any case!)
    The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2200 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because the dice is smaller and generates far more heat per square cm then the "old" CPU's do.
    How to check the cooler before taking it off.
    There is a simple way to check the cooler without taking it off.
    You do this by first checking your idle temp with PCAlert, it should be below 50-55C.
    Then you download a client from www.distributed.net, let this client run for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
    If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a big chance you mounted the CPU-cooler wrong.
    When you can't run this check, try with FSB100, if the system does run the check then, it could be well that the cooler is mounted wrong or your powersupply doesn't have enough power.
    ***** YOU CAN'T CHECK THE CPU COOLER ON TEMPS OR FAN RUNNING, IT MUST BE TAKEN OFF THE CPU!!! *****  
    Cleaning the CPU and Cooler - thanks to Dragon60 for his addition.
    An additional comments about this is what you clean the CPU with in this situation. The best thing to use is isopropyl alcohol. If this is not available then metholated spirits would do.
    Make sure you allow the CPU to dry properly before you put it back in. This also means DO NOT try and clean it whilst it is still in the socket as some of the cleaning fluid, grease and dirt may get underneath and short some pins.
    Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may disolve some parts.
    Thanks Dragon60.  
    If you don't understand what we are talking about on this cooler matter, then read this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide  
    Powersupplies  
    Powersupply too little, most commen cheap 300W CPU's can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
    Make sure your powersupply has about 185W combined on the 3.3+5V and that the 3.3V has 20A or above.
    That should be enough for most systems.
    On the latest boards the 12V has become very important too, expecialy with TBred CPU's.
    Make sure yours can give 18A or more on the 12V line too.
    I have found that a lot of cheap 350W will fail with modern boards and TBred CPU's.
    Allway's make sure you have a decend PSU, it never fails to spent a bit more on that part!
    Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure....
    More info about powersupplies: Click here.
    And the second you must read: Click here.
    Powersupplies with these type of numbers on them or higher should be fine:
    3.3V - 28A or better
    5V - 30A or better
    12V - 18A or better
    Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!!
    Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!!
    Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!  
    Metalclips  
    Stand-off's left between the board and the case, take the board out and check for too many of those metal-clips, they can shorten circuits and cause al sorts of problems (most of the time audio problems)
    RAM
    Ram problems, don't try to run with PC100 (SDram boards) when you have a 133FSB CPU, get PC133 ram of decend quality.
    In any case, don't use cheap quality ram (Crucial seems decend, but give's a lot of problems, I consider these cheap quality too :P ), replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it....
    DDR ram speeds:
    Duron upto 1300/Athlon-B =100FSB=PC-1600=DDR200
    Duron from 1400 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
    Athlon-C/XP upto 2600 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
    Athlon XP D-type and above =166FSB=PC-2700=DDR333
    Athlon XP E-type and above =200FSB=PC-3200=DDR400
    Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock, they have no speed gain if run at the correct speed. You may use faster ram on a slower system, the speeds given are what is needed minimum.
    Perform RAM test tools, ie http://www.memtest.org if you suspect RAM is faulty, such as BSOD or data corruption. [added by Maesus]
    Try your system allway's with 1 stick of ram, adding more sticks can give all the trouble too.
    Some sticks just won't work in pair and a lot fail when you put 3 or more in the system.
    When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the MSI tested ones, they are your best chance that they work without problems.
    If still nothing, try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
    Thanks boost
    Or rise the Ram voltage a little, be carefull doing this!
    Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in there.
    BIOS  
    BIOS settings not right, clear the CMos and start with the default settings, if it works, try setting ONLY the FSB to 133 if needed, nothing more.....
    And go further from there......
    Clearing CMos
    When you clear the CMos, make sure that all power is cut from the system.
    This is done by takeing the wall-plug out or use the switch on the powersupply to turn it off.
    On most boards, as far as I know all MSI boards, you must set the JBat1 to position 2-3 (clear position) for about 10 seconds, then set it back to 1-2 (keep data position)
    After this your CMos should be cleared and you can turn the system back on.
    In some rare cases it's needed to take the battery out too for a minute or so.
    It can happen that the system will prompt you to set the BIOS again, go into the BIOS and set everything you need, then save the settings.
    Thanks fguevara.
    Harddisks  
    Harddisk is giving problems, most of the time with WD drive's, they are jumpered somewhat strange compared to others:
    No jumper = Stand-Alone no other drive attached to the cable.
    Jumper master = if you have a slave drive attached
    Jumper slave = when it's slave to another drive
    Harddisk is doing weird things:
    Make sure you have connected the blue connector to the board, and don't let the other end of the cable unused, make sure there is a device connected to it.
    The middle connector can be left into the air without problems if not needed.
    IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
    Click here for DFT
    Other brand drives can have problems too, make sure they are ok, as harddisk failure can cause all sorts of problems.
    Allway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape, if not, replace it and try another to verify.
    For more information read this: Click here.
    To know what harddisks your motherboard support, use this link.
    To enable harddisk over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
    [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Atapi\Parameters]
    "EnableBigLba"=dword:00000001
    The KT4 raid boards only support 1 harddisk on IDE3, the rest must be SATA drive's!!
    Harddisk/power led not functioning - thanks to Tweetyoost
    If your HD led or power led not work try to switch(wrong + or - side) the connectors on the motherboard.
    leds will work only when + or - is correct
    Thanks Tweetyoost.  
    Floppy drive's  
    If your floppy drive doesn't work or the led stay's on all the time.
    Make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS, as the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
    Check the cable, make sure the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side.
    If the light stay's on, flip the connector at the floppy-drive arround.
    Sometimes it happens that even after all this, they still don't work, try with another drive from another brand.
    Not able to enter the BIOS or lockup  
    When you try to enter the BIOS it won't go in there or
    lockup, but your system is running fine.
    This symtom can happen when your CPU-Cooler is giving spikes on the coolerwire.
    Try with another brand of cooler to test if it solves it.
    Keyboard and optical mouse lights stay on after power off[/U]
    Some motherboards have a jumper called JKBV1, this jumper is located (mostly) near the keyboard connector, put it in the other position.
    If your board doesn't have the jumper, try to find the following BIOS settings and turn them off:
    resume on KBC
    resume on PS/2
    resume by alarm
    USB ports not working[/U]
    Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled.
    USB2.0 ports are supported in Win2000+SP3 and XP+SP1, just let the OS reinstall the ports and they should work.
    Thanks Stygge
    Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
    It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case.
    But if you still like to do so, please support the board, because if you don't you might bent the board a little and cause other components to make bad contact.
    Allways support the board when you replace stuff, no matter what!
    Also make sure your system can take the replacement, it could happen for example that your powersupply can't handle your changed videocard from GF2MX to GF4Ti4600.
    Test all the parts in another system
    Make sure that the new part is in good working order in the first place (in particular: videocard, CPU, memory): try it in another system, or have it demonstrated by the one you bought it from if possible.
    Testing might also give you a clue on what is actually wrong in your own system.
    Thanks HansH.
    Checking the powersupply
    Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
    Disconnect the powersupply.
    Orientate the 20pin Powerconnector with the clip up.
    Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire.
    Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
    Now connect the power and the fan inside the powersupply should start spinning.
    If it doesn't your powersupply maybe dead.
    Thanks HansH.
    KT4 users  
    Please read the Un-Official KT4 guide if you have CRC errors or strange crashes.
    These can be BIOS problems.
    In any case !!!Only flash if the system is stable!!!
    Set default-settings and FSB100 to make it stable first!!!
    Motherboards making a Siren-sound
    If your board is making the sound of a firetruck, BEEP-BOOP-BEEP-BOOP...
    Check the folowing:
    1. CPU too hot
    2. chassis intrusion was enabled in the BIOS
    3. PSU is below min/max allowable value
    Stutter in audio
    Remove your antivirus software.
    We have heard a few cases where the stuttering was created by badly behaving antivirus software.
    Disable cpu halt command if it's in the BIOS (Thanks Pascal16)
    Windows  
    Windows2000/XP won't run stable, try to disable APIC and install again....
    Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
    Windows2000/XP won't install USB2.0, install the latest servicepak (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP).
    Let Windows rediscover the USB ports, they should work now.
    If you have driver or other problems and don't know what to do anymore but Windows does function without crashing, read this: Click here.
    Audio [added by Maesus, 20/2/2003]
    Can't stream AC3 via SPDIF to external DD decoder? try this ac3filter [info provided by Manfred ]
    Lan not working 100MBit
    You could try this patch, seems to work on some boards.
    The download-link is at the bottom of this post.
    I think I have about covered all most commen problems....
    Check those first before you ask us, as it's not fun to type the same over and over again.... :(
    Another good link for trouble shooting is here: Link
    If you have more issues that can solve problems, please write your thing below......
    I will insert your comments in this guide, with credits, offcourse 8)
    !!I will delete any attempt for discussion or problem report below this message.....!!
    Please report back, in another thread, if your problem was solved and how you did it, this will help others a great deal.
    It's only ment to help people as a guide to where the problem can be, start a new thread if this guide didn't solve your problem and you need more help!
    This thread is only for the experts to guide you into a solution :]

    Dude thank-you for your wonder detailed knowldge, I have descovered that lets say xp 1700 in a ultra 2 can only handle at the most 143fsb mult at 12.
    Given the settings" irq's are a major",part of directing traffic and power? example:
    Sound blaster Live , uses two irq's most common at"Auto" is, irq 10, or 5, and Sound blaster 16 emulation usually takes irq 5,. I have found that the sound card in slot3 works great , but to do this I had to change the Bio's and assign slot 3 irq 7 . and make sure printer port has share irq enabled
    Problems that accure with bad traffic are like this. Start a dedicated server. minimize than start your game?":censored:  no sound what could be wrong"? Shoot another problem Connection problem?. The computer nerd is getting trouble over the ordeal. ANSWER! IRQ can fix the problem, Study the irq and make changes as you go. "what would it be like with no stop signs,,,that is the same as a irq. with the same knowldge this topic brings IRQ need to be clearly understood.
    I can honestly say my system is error free and running like a dream.
    xp 2500 barton 333
    creative sound 5.1gamers.
    512 mb kingston ram 400 mhz
    boadband either onboard.
    MSI 5700 128 mb ddr
    Setting are:
    163 fsb
    mult of 11
    ddr 333
    video memory clock down to 450mhz
    3d clock to 390mhz
    The delta is a smooth running board also I want to mention to the person with crackling sounds, change the irq like I did, that fix the problem and the power is totaly too good to be true.

  • After updating to Firefox 4, it will not open. I end the Firefox processes in Task Manager per trouble shooting procedures; still not working. Removed and re-installed. No go.

    Can I revert to an older version? I tried all your published trouble shooting procedures to no avail to get Firefox 4 to open. When I try to run it, there is a process running in the Task Manager but no task or program actually opens.
    I never had any problems with previous versions.

    There are various causes for this error, see [[Firefox is already running but is not responding]] for details.

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