General Recall for all Macbook Pro's
I believe that is time for Apple to do a general recall of all the Macbook Pro's.
Even if takes a couple of weeks to revise them, it will be worth it.
Divi
Mac Book Pro 2.0 Mac OS X (10.4.5)
Maybe because most of us don't have any problems.
Please understand (and this is coming from an Apple authorized tech from years back, who has not worked in service for years...but still.....), if you have problems, you complain. And you should. And you find other that are having problems. And that makes it look like all or at least most people are also having problems. And that's just not the case.
The local Apple store here has sold about 30 (granted, a small number) and not ONE has come back, including mine. Does my backlight flicker a tiny bit at the lowest setting? Yes. Not enough to bother me. Anything else? Nope.
Guess what....that's typical. What is atypical are the posts you see here about problems. That is definitley not to say that they shoudln't be fixed, and maybe shouldn't have happend at all. But understand that you are in an unfortunate minority.
Similar Messages
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Trackpad Fix for All Macbook Pro and Macbook Models.
Apple has issued a update for the Trackpad but the update is only compatible with the newer unibody Macbooks and Macbook Pros.
I have made the following patch that is compatible with all Macbook Pro and Macbook models with trackpad issues. Don't forget to run the registry patch last.
Download it here:
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=SNIG71OI
This should fix the trackpad issues for all Macbook Pro models.
1. Go to Device manager and go to the "Apple Multitouch Mouse Properties."
2. Go to the driver tab and click on Update Driver.
3. Click on "Browse my computer for driver software".
4. Click on "Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer".
5. Click on the "Have Disk" button.
6. Browse to the location of the included "Apple Multitouch Mouse Driver" folder and hit OK.
7. Click on next and it will update the driver.
8. Double-Click the included "MouseFix" registry file.
9. Restart and enjoy!Thanks a lot for the effort you made. Rightclick/Scroll problem is not as bad as before, but its still there. What exactly did you change in the driver files? I'm very interested in this.
I think about programming my own drivers. A good base for that will be perhaps the source code for this linux demo:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MeLUxsvIVuU&feature=related -
Very Serious Issue for all Macbook Pro Users Regarding Reinstalls, Backups
If you boot from your original install DVD, and choose to re-partition your internal HD, it may result in having a disk that will not be bootable, and the install program will refuse to proceed. This means you WILL NOT be able to install OS X on your Macbook Pro!
The problem is that the partition scheme MUST be 'GUID partition' in order for an intel mac to boot on, and it is 'fdisk' instead.
The solution given by apple support is the following : http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=303220-en
Unfortunately, the disk utility on your install DVD disables the "option" button that offers the option "GUID partition" : this option is only available for external disks !Was there a reason you wanted to partition your HD?
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Is it bad for my macbook pro to heat up so high?
I know that its normal for all macbook pro's to heat so extremely high and mine rarely does it only when im running multiple things and putting the cpu to work,I was just curious if this was actually bad for my "notebook".
How high? Download, install and run iStat Pro. Post back with temperatures.
http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/
Stedman -
I want to buy a hard case for my macbook pro, but I don't know what year it is. When I use the serial number to try and find out, all it says is, "~VIN,MacBook Pro (15-inch Glossy)". When I type that into amazon for a case it gives me nothing!
Hi T,
Either of these will give you the info you seek:
http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html -
I did everything the article suggests. And for my macbook pro it works perfectly. But all the other devices (iphone 5, 4, Macbook Air) can't connect to the network. Anybody any idea's?
Try resetting your modem. Power it down. Wait a moment, then power it up again. While it resets, do not change what is connected to it.
In another, though unrelated article, Apple recommends the following:
If you have configured your Wi-Fi base stations in the past, it may be helpful to do a factory default reset of each Wi-Fi base station that will be part of the wireless extended network before you begin.
This step really ought not be considered optional for the configuration you propose. If the problem persists after resetting your modem, reset everything else too. -
I tried to update the latest software update for my MacBook pro (which was on 10/12) and after it started to update it restarted like normal but when it started back up it was running painfully slow and none oft programs will open.They all quit unexpectedly. iTunes microsoft word all of them quit unexpectedly. Help!
Exact same problem with my 2010 MBP 2.4ghz 4gb ram 10.6.8. iTunes said update was needed, Software Update ran with various updates including a security update, truthfully didn't pay much attention, I always install the Apple updates. After the restart it took 3-4 times longer than normal to get to the login screen, same to get to the desktop but I'm familiar with that occurring on update restarts. Unfortunately it got worse from there. Performed a full shutdown and startup. Same long boot. After the desktop finally loads every mouse button press received a 2 minute beachball. I use menu-meters and both processors are under 10%. Waited a few minutes for disk utilities to launch, repair permissions estimates 3 hours for a typical <10 minute process. Activity monitor shows nothing over 10% CPU most of the time however ReportCrash pops to the top often. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. BTW zero problems until this update.
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Can I use my iMac as a 'display' for my MacBook Pro?
Hi all, I am really hoping someone can help me here.
I am wondering if I can use my 24" iMac as a display for my MacBook Pro (both running Snow Leopard).
It's my father's 80th birthday party in about 24 hours time. I am doing up the music and slideshow (thanks Apple - so easy!).
My plan was to simply take my iMac and use it. However, I managed to drop the wireless keyboard (darn those dogs) and now my keyboard won't work. I have no backup keyboards here (gave the wired one to Dad to use with his Mac mini). I live in a country area with no access to a Mac store and it will take more than 24 hours to get a new one. Went to my local 'other computer' general store last night: I really don't want to buy an ugly black keyboard..... I have just had a great idea:
Can I network my MacBook Pro and use it as the source for the slide show and simply use the iMac as a display? I have plenty of DVI adaptors but am just not sure how I would go about the software side of things? Or should I simply buy an ugly PC keyboard (and if I do, will the WIndows button work as an Apple button???)
Any suggestions would be really appreciated.
Thanks!The imac 24 can't be used as a monitor over a DVI connection or the like, Suzanne, but you may be able to achieve what you want to using "Screen Sharing" by networking the two computers. This lets your MBP effectively control what is running on the iMac.
See HERE for the basic setup. For information about how to access the "shareable" screen from the MBP see HERE.
One possible problem may be actually getting this set-up on the iMac if it is not already enabled, however, unless you can borrow a keyboard from someone (your password may have to be entered to enable it). You may be able to get around this, if necessary, using the "keyboard viewer" (which you can place in the menubar using System preferences > Keyboard, if you don't already have it there).
Cheers
Rod -
What antivirus protection should I purchase for my MacBook Pro? MacSecurity.app appeared on my desktop, and I downloaded that. Since then, it has said my computer is infected and pop-ups have been appearing.
You've been infected by a scam trojan. You don't need any anti-virus software on your Mac. See the following about getting rid of the trojan.
Trojan War
If you discover a trojan program is running on your computer then look to the following information for assistance:
1. A recent discussion on the Apple Support Communities: MacDefender Trojan.
2. An excellent site devoted to Mac Malware: Macintosh Virus Guide
3. Another site for removing MacDefende, et.al.: MAC Defender Rogue Anti-Virus analysis and Removal
4. A new removal utility - MacDefenderKiller
Removing strange software can be a task. The following outlines various ways of uninstalling software:
Uninstalling Software: The Basics
Most OS X applications are completely self-contained "packages" that can be uninstalled by simply dragging the application to the Trash. Applications may create preference files that are stored in the /Home/Library/Preferences/ folder. Although they do nothing once you delete the associated application, they do take up some disk space. If you want you can look for them in the above location and delete them, too.
Some applications may install an uninstaller program that can be used to remove the application. In some cases the uninstaller may be part of the application's installer, and is invoked by clicking on a Customize button that will appear during the install process.
Some applications may install components in the /Home/Library/Applications Support/ folder. You can also check there to see if the application has created a folder. You can also delete the folder that's in the Applications Support folder. Again, they don't do anything but take up disk space once the application is trashed.
Some applications may install a Startup item or a Log In item. Startup items are usually installed in the /Library/StartupItems/ folder and less often in the /Home/Library/StartupItems/ folder. Log In Items are set in the Accounts preferences. Open System Preferences, click on the Accounts icon, then click on the LogIn Items tab. Locate the item in the list for the application you want to remove and click on the Delete [-] button to delete it from the list.
Some software use startup daemons or agents that are a new feature of the OS. Look for them in /Library/LaunchAgents/ and /Library/LaunchDaemons/ or in /Home/Library/LaunchAgents/.
If an application installs any other files the best way to track them down is to do a Finder search using the application name or the developer name as the search term. Unfortunately Spotlight will not look in certain folders by default. You can modify Spotlight's behavior or use a third-party search utility, Easy Find, instead. Download Easy Find at VersionTracker or MacUpdate.
Some applications install a receipt in the /Library/Receipts/ folder. Usually with the same name as the program or the developer. The item generally has a ".pkg" extension. Be sure you also delete this item as some programs use it to determine if it's already installed.
There are many utilities that can uninstall applications. Note that you must have this software installed before you install software you may need to uninstall. Uninstallers won't work if you install them after the fact. Here is a selection:
AppZapper
Automaton
Hazel
CleanApp
Yank
SuperPop
Uninstaller
Spring Cleaning
Look for them and others at VersionTracker or MacUpdate.
For more information visit The XLab FAQs and read the FAQs on removing software and dealing with spyware and malware.
After removing all the components of the software you may have to restart the computer to fully disable the software. This will be the case when removing software that has installed a daemon. After the daemon has been removed you need to restart the computer to stop the daemon. Alternatively, you can kill the daemon process using the Terminal application or Activity Monitor. -
Where is the User Guide for the MacBook Pro 13-Inch 2012?
Hi there,
Trawling the Apple Support Manual pages (http://support.apple.com/manuals), I couldn't seem to find the correct User Guide.. even searching with my Serial Number.
I am looking for the MacBook Pro 13-inch (2012 10.8.2 Mountain Lion) User's Guide.
Searching with my Serial Number, the results are:
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) - Quick Start Guide
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) - Important Product Information Guide
Searchng manually, all i can find are:
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2010) - User Guide
MacBook (13-inch) - User Guide... which is the OS X v10.4 Tiger version
Is there not a "MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) - User Guide" ????
Thanks,
ChrisI have already worked out that there's no full User's Guide.
Why would a new mac User, like myself, want a Quick Start Guide (which came in the box), and then not want access to an actual full User Guide.
I have been using the other PDF's for general guidance, but I shouldn't have to make do with other guides.
Apple.... Is it too much to ask that my £1250 purchase comes with the proper documentation ?! -
HT4110 What is the best battery setting for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display?
I want to know the best setting for the battery for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display.
To add just a little
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
And best "tip" is if its near a socket,...plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)", however again, not plugged in all or most of the time.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific. As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
(as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above: “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace -
I have new iMac with Lion installed; can I get a free upgrade for my MacBook Pro?
Hello
I recently bought a 27" iMac with Lion installed. Should I be able to download the upgrade for my MacBook Pro without paying. If so what should I do. If I go to the App Store I'll end up paying £20.99
Any help gratefully received
margaretMargaret,
No you will need to purchase the upgrade. However if you own other Macs you want to upgrade once you have purchased Lion then you can upgrade the additional machines. Of course the additional machines must be using the same Apple ID. As long as the additional machine's meet the minimum system requirements listed below you are all set.
General requirements
Mac computer with an Intel Core 2 Duo, Core i3, Core i5, Core i7, or Xeon processor
2GB of memory
OS X v10.6.6 or later (v10.6.8 recommended)
7GB of available space
Some features require an Apple ID; terms apply. -
Hi, I can't seem to change my desktop screensaver for my MacBook Pro.
Hi, I can't seem to change my desktop screensaver for my MacBook Pro. When I open my system preferences and click the screensaver option the cursor loads and loads but never lets me actually click anything. Nor do my pictures upload to let me chose. It's been doing this for months and it is irritating. Is there a specfic reason why the cursor won't load at all? Any way I can fix that?
Triple-click the line below on this page to select it, then copy the text to the Clipboard (command-C):
~/Library/Preferences/ByHost
In the Finder, select
Go ▹ Go to Folder...
from the menu bar. Paste into the box that opens (command-V), then press return. A folder should open. If it does, look for a file with a long name that begins "com.apple.screensaver". There may be two such files. Select the onewithout the word "slideshow" in the name and open the Info dialog (command-I).
Does the dialog show "You can read and write" in the Sharing & Permissions section?
In the General section, is the box labeled Locked checked?
What is the Modified date? -
How do I know what battery I need for my MacBook Pro?
Hello, Is there a way to find out what model the battery is that I need for my MacBook Pro without tearing it apart? I have the serial number and also the Hardware UUID, whatever that is. If I have to tear it apart I will, but I'm hoping to keep that to a minimum as I'm afraid to tempt fate!
skink - thanks for the kind words.
Depending on your model (check under the Apple menu, "About This Mac", "More Info...", "System Report..." and tell me your Model Identifier. Mine, for instance, says (under Hardware Overview):
Hardware Overview:
Model Name: MacBook Pro
Model Identifier: MacBookPro8,2
Depending on your model, a 'good' number of cycles might be as low as 300 or as high as 1,000. But if the condition is "normal," as you say (and as mine reads) you really shouldn't have anything to worry about.
If it's a battery that needs to be replaced by an Apple tech, it's 'built-in,' meaning you can't just turn it over and change the battery (such was the case with my 2006 1,1 model and some models after that).
It's always good to keep an eye on battery health and to use some methods of keeping your CPU load at a minimum when using battery power. Viewing movies, whether in the DVD player or those that are on your computer, will really tax your CPU and result in lower battery life. To maximize your battery life, try to have as few apps open as possible when under battery power - particularly those that drain your CPU. You can keep and eye on this by keeping Activity Monitor, in your Utilities folder, open at all times. If you see a process that's taking 10+% of your CPU load, that's an app you should close or at least keep an eye on - my Firefox browser will sometime get in the 13% range, but I don't worry about that.
Battery use is, for me, primarily about Internet browsing and email. I keep open Firefox, Outlook, Activity Monitor, Word, Acrobat, Word, TextEdit, and a few other small apps and I generally get 7+ hours on battery time.
I would also suggest using two little utilities to keep an eye on battery usage - one is "Battery Health" available at the App Store free. The other is gfxCardStatus which will let you use discrete graphics, changing your GPU to the less intensive processor. It's available at http://codykrieger.com/gfxCardStatus and is "Mountain Lion ready" as of it's latest release.
Good luck - see how many more hours you can eke out of that battery before thinking about having it replaced. As much as I use mine, I know that I'm going to go over the 1,000 cycle mark before my AppleCare expires, so I know that I'm going to have to get it replaced. But for now, I'm getting the advertised hours and am quite happy.
Regards,
Clinton -
I am asking this because I want the G-Tech Hard drive says that it is designed for the macbook pro. Yet, I want to back up faster with by using my firewire 400 which is not an option on the one designed for the white macbook that does not have a firewire (only a USB port.) The G-Tech Hard drive comes with the 800 to 400 compatible cable and has 5400 RPM with 750 GB. Also, I've heard that laptops with low battery (mine all the time) won't have the power for a bus powered Hard drive (as in no ac plug in adaptor.) Can I just plug in my laptop? Any one know the answers from experience with this hard drive?
As far as I know, if a harddrive works with a Macpro, it should work with the Macbook: if your Macbook is low on power, plug in the AC adapter
If your Macbook has a firewire port, then it should be fine. BUt i would do somemore research first.
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