Getting "n" speed!

I have a G5 single 1.8GHZ tower. I have an airport extreme card installed and am using the newest router, the one capable of 802.11n. However, in the Network Utility it states that my Wireless Network Adapter is only 802.11g. How do I get the "n" speeds? The enabler for sale at apple.com is not for my machine and the new cards appear to be only 802.11g. Help!
Thank you!

The wireless card in your G5 is 802.11b/g but is not capable of 802.11n.
To get 802.11n capability, you will need a 3rd party adapter like this one.

Similar Messages

I'm facing a lot of problem to get connected to 3G speed on my iPhone4 . And also I hardly get 2g speed . I'm done with all the checks as network reset , clearin cache n cookies even . Thus request to clear this heck of a issue

Facing a lot of problem in connecting to 3G speed on my iphone4 . Done with all the checks as network reset and also done with clearing cache n cookies still the problem is same . I hardly get 2g speed even . Thus I request to help to fix this problem.

Your code is absolutely unreadable - even if someone was willing to
help, it's simply impossible. I do give you a few tips, though: If you
understand your code (i.e. if it really is YOUR code), you should be
able to realize that your minimum and maximum never get set (thus they
are both 0) and your exam 3 is set with the wrong value. SEE where
those should get set and figure out why they're not. Chances are you
are doing something to them that makes one 'if' fail or you just
erroneously assign a wrong variable!

Not getting N speed for file transfers?

I am hoping someone out there can help with this.
I have an Extreme base station that I have been using for a while and have had a media player connected to this via an ethernet cable which all worked well. I wanted to get rid of the ethernet cable so I went a bought a 802.11n Airport Express today. After much futzing around I managed to get the Airport Express to connect to the Airport Extreme to extend the network and my media player shows up on the network as it is supposed to.
My settings for the two Airport base stations are as follows;
Airport Extreme
Version 7.3.1
Wireless mode: Create a wireless network
Network name: Apple Network
Wireless Security: WPA2 Personal
Channel: 36 (Automatic)
Wireless Clients: 2
IP Address: 10.1.1.2
Radio Mode: 802.11n only (5Ghz)
Airport Express
Version: 7.3
Wireless mode: Extend a wireless network
Network Name: Apple Network
Airport Express Name: Express
Wireless Security: WPA2 Personal
Channel: 36 (Automatic)
Wireless Clients: 1
IP Address: 10.1.1.4
Under wireless options I have the Express set to use wide channels.
Where my problem lies is that the transfer speeds to the media player are now extremely slow now that i am using wireless. I used to get transfer speeds (wired) via FTP of +2MB/sec (usually 2.3/2.4) and now I am only getting a max of 550KB/sec which quickly drops to around 250KB/sec. If I option click the Airport status on my Macbook it shows a transfer rate of 54.
I can still transfer files from my Macbook to Airport disk at a reasonable speed but the transfer from either the Macbook or Airport disk to the media player is painfully slow.
Hopefully someone can help. Thanks in advance.

So I am still playing around with this and I have downgraded the firmware in my Extreme to 7.2.1 and upgraded the firmware in the express to 7.3.1. I managed to get connected directly to the Extreme somehow and a file transfer (1GB file) via FTP was sitting on 1.2MB/s until it got about halfway through the file and crashed my FTP program and I lost all internet connectivity.
After restarting the Extreme and the Express the internet came back but this time my Macbook was connected to the Express and back to 11g speeds.
Is there a way to force my Macbook to connect to the Extreme and not the Express?
All I really want out of this **** Airport Express is to act as a wireless adaptor for my media player.
Why cant it just give me a connection out of the ethernet port when in "join a wireless network" mode?
/end rant

Hi Guys does anyone know of a way i can get cyclops speed camera alert to work through bluetooth incar hands free kit , i used to be able to connect it via an app called drivesafely but this app is no longer available in apple store ????????????

Hi Guys does anyone know of a way i can get cyclops speed camera alert to work through bluetooth incar hands free kit , i used to be able to connect it via an app called drivesafely but this app is no longer available in apple store ????????????

I think the easiest way to do this is to have the EyeTV app running in one user account and sent via HDMI to the TV, and use a separate user account for Screen Sharing. Both logins can be active at the same time and with Lion you can connect via screen sharing to which ever login you need.
With regards to the Mac video resolution changing, when it is not the current input on your AV receiver. This is 'normal', if the Mac sees no signal it drops down the a lower level. What you need is to buy a HDMI Detective Plus which tricks the Mac in to always seeing a signal and hence it will not drop down the resolution. See http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=8005
The Mac mini does have an IR receiver. This can be used with the EyeTV app, iTunes, and similar. Yes I believe EyeTV would run for prolonged periods quite happily, it is has been around for a long time and had most of the rough edges polished off. However one issue you will have to deal with is that it does not automatically update its program guide data. For this you might have to write or modify an AppleScript. Elgato support or their user forums will be a lot of help.
You can set EyeTV to convert recordings to an iTunes (Apple TV) compatible format and then delete them from EyeTV.
The HDMI Detective should solve your handshaking problems.

When I opened up a new tab, I used to get the Speed Dial page. I like that. However, since I updated my AVG anti-virus program, now when I open a new tab, I get the AVG search page. Can I change it back so that I get the Speed Dial?

In the past, when I opened up a new tab, I used to get the Speed Dial page. I like that. However, since I updated my AVG anti-virus program, now when I open a new tab, I get the AVG search page. Can I change it back so that I get the Speed Dial?

I had that too. On the bottom right of the AVG search page is a link which leads you to where you can switch it off. This restores normal Speed Dial operation.
This hijacking has really cheesed me off. I've just downloaded Avast and am going to put it on in place of AVG.

Upgraded to ADSL2 now get slower speeds than befor...

Hello
Well last Tuesday my line was upgraded to the 20mb ADSL2 and I was looking forward to some increase in bandwidth (even though before the upgrade my line was pumping 7mb most of the time which I was happy with)
Now for some reason I am getting slower speeds than before I upgraded. Something tells me I should not have bothered with the amount of effort it took to get the upgrade.
I cant understand why my DL is saying 3000+ and before upgrade it was reading 7500+
I have not reset my hub manually all disconnections have been done automatic.
Here are my router stats and I have been reading a few posts and I am hoping someone can shine some light on this for me:
BT Home Hub - DSL Connection
DSL Connection
Link Information
Uptime:
2 days, 0:36:48
Modulation:
G.992.5 annex A
Bandwidth (Up/Down) [kbps/kbps]:
687 / 3,347
Data Transferred (Sent/Received) [MB/GB]:
177.59 / 3.69
Output Power (Up/Down) [dBm]:
9.5 / 0.0
Line Attenuation (Up/Down) [dB]:
14.5 / 28.0
SN Margin (Up/Down) [dB]:
12.5 / 19.0
Vendor ID (Local/Remote):
TMMB / IFTN
Loss of Framing (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Signal (Local/Remote):
2 / 0
Loss of Power (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Link (Remote):
0
Error Seconds (Local/Remote):
17 / 0
FEC Errors (Up/Down):
0 / 0
CRC Errors (Up/Down):
0 / 97
HEC Errors (Up/Down):
0 / 96
Line Profile:
Fast
Software version: 6.2.6.H
Solved!
Go to Solution.

That's good to hear
Enjoy the speed
-+-No longer a forum member-+-

Getting slower speeds if using Apple Time Capsule?...

Hi. Have had Infinity2 for a couple of weeks and am happy with the sevice - much faster than my old Virgin cable. When the engineer came he installed the white modem box and connected it to a Home Hub 4. With Virgin I used the Superhub in "modem" mode and connected it to my Time Capsule which handled all the wireless stuff. I was planning on doing the same kind of thing with the BT connection as I was very happy with the Time Capsules wireless performance. The Time Capsule is around 3 years old so it's not the newest one out but I was getting good speeds from the virgin service. After a search around the internet I found a forum instructing me to connect the white modem box directly to the Capsule and set the capsule up in PPPoE mode. This all worked really well but I was suprised at how slow the wireless connection was compared to the HomeHub. The HH4 got me around 71Mb bits per sec and the Capsule got me around 43Mb per sec. Can anyone give any guidence? I am happy with the wireless speed the HH4 is giving me but wite wifi signal can be erratic at times - some mornings a power cycle is needed to reset the wireless signal. Also, when my wife uses her hair dryer, this also sometimes knocks out the wireless signal and I have to reset. Any help would be great. Thank you

My time capsule bust recently but before that I had it connected via. powerline adapters directly to the HH3 rather than to the modem.
I know I only have infinity 1 but I used to get download speeds via. wifi of 37.6 - 37.8 from my 38.72 connection from the time capsules wifi.
I now use an even older original Airport Express to create a WifFi network in the same manner and get exactly the same download results.
I would recommend steering clear of the OpenReach Modem and connect the Time capsule to the HH4 and see if you get better results that way.
I would also set your WiFi to 802.11n only (5GHz) to keep away from interferring signals.

HT5219 Do you need a Thunderbolt 2 Cable to get the speed out of a Thunderbolt 2 Port? Or is there just one kind of Thunderbolt cable, and its the Thunderbolt 2 port which determines the speed?

Do you need or is there a specific Thunderbolt 2 Cable to get the speed out of a Thunderbolt 2 Port? Or is there just one kind of Thunderbolt cable, and its the Thunderbolt 2 port which determines the speed?

Hi XChip73,
The links below will answer your questions about specific cable needs for Thunderbolt 2 and how the speed is determined.
Apple - Thunderbolt: Next-generation high-speed I/O technology.
Apple Thunderbolt cables and adapters - Apple Support
Cheers,
-Jason

I have bought my iphone 5 from UK and now residing in USA. Although my carrier (Ultra Mobile) provides 4G service i only get 3G speed. Also icon "3G" appears on top part of my screen. My model is MD297B/A. Pls suggest to enable 4G on my phone

i have bought my iphone 5 from UK and now residing in USA. Although my carrier (Ultra Mobile) provides 4G service i only get 3G speed. Also icon "3G" appears on top part of my screen. My model is MD297B/A. Pls suggest to enable 4G on my phone

It is more than likely the inability of the UK phone to support the US phone bands. You will probably be stuck with 3G and will never be able to get LTE. Also, your warranty is only good in the UK. You might be better of to try and sell that device to someone in the UK and purchase a phone in the US that you can get full service with.

Can't get full speed out of Comcast Blast (16/2) when connected to AEBS

I just moved into to a new townhouse that I had prewired with Cat 6 and have subscribed to Comcast Blast service. (No Fios here.) When I connect my Mac directly to the modem, I can get download speeds as high as 16-17 Mbps and upload speeds around 1.5 Mbps at times. However, when I try to connect through my home network (modem > AEBS > Gbit switch > Mac), I'm lucky to get > 4Mbps down and about 1.5 Mbps up. (Download speed is obviously more of a concern.) The AEBS is running v7.2.1 and I confirmed through Network Utility that I'm connected to my network at 1Gb. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance,
Paul

Hey Paul:
Okay.
This should NOT be happening. Something is obviously awry here. Try checking the cable that is used to connect your Comcast Modem to your Airport Base Station. It may / may not be the problem. Usually however Comcast does not supply high quality patch cords and they're not anywhere near the cat 5 or 5e spec. Forget about Cat 6 being given away by them.
So go buy a handful of patch cords that are spec'd at cat 6. (And get ready to pay thru the nose for them!) Use these to replace all the connections from the Cable Modem to the AEBS and from the AEBS to your Gigabyte Switch. You can get a reading that says you're connecting at gigabyte speeds but if your cables won't run it, then you do not get the throughput that you're looking for. Remember you are going through multiple ethernet ports here (cable modem to AEBS to Switch to Computers.
Also, do you have your Gigabyte capable devices on the GB switch ONLY? No 10/100 printers or computers with slower ethernet ports connected to THAT switch? I know they say 10/100/1000 but generally that's total BS. You'll find that isolating the slower speed devices/computers onto their own switch/hub makes a huge difference. A NON-Gigabyte ethernet device (just like a non-N Wireless device) mixed into the same network can slow down the who network. The solution is to put the slower stuff on a little 8 port powered 10/100 switch of it's own with a Gigabyte UpStream connection to your GB switch. That way the slower devices don't slow your entire network down to a crawl. Don't forget to use a CAT 6 Cable from the GB Switch to the 10/100 switch with a GB Upstream port. Yes. It matter that much. The faster the network goes the less forgiving it becomes.
Also, you said you had the house wired for CAT 6. Did the installers use CAT 6 certified Jacks, Cable, Connectors? Lots of really lousy electricians will charge you for CAT6 and then use the cheaper connectors and jacks. You've got the right cable. But nothing else. And the whole thing is NOT going to work at the maximum speeds until the hardware is all CAT6 and installed correctly.
I paid over $30k to wire the office for CAT 6 and POE for the phones. The contractor used the cheaper cat 5 jacks and connectors. They didn't even terminate the connectors properly. Cost me a fortune in trouble shooting to find the problem and more money/time to correct it. When I took the first guy to court for breach of contract and fraud he said "I didn't know that CAT6 required special jacks and connectors and cable terminations." The judge agreed with me that as an electrical contractor charging that kind of money - he should have known and supplied what he specified. Not what was handy and cheaper. I got my money back. And court costs. And he got fined an additional $50k for the fraud and misrepresentation. So find out what your contractors actually installed. I'd almost bet that somewhere along the way, you're back to cat 5 or cat 3 and don't even know it.
Good luck!
Isn't data communications FUN?
Let me know what you discover!
M in LA

2700HGV - Trying to get Better Speeds

NilSatisOptimum asked for this, he is helping me to get better speeds. Anybody else, feel free to chip in if you have any suggestions.
BT 2700HGV stats:
I have got a new ADSL Nation faceplate coming tomorrow. I don't know if this will help but it's worth a try.
If my answer was helpful, please give me a star by clicking the star on the left hand side.
Thank you.

I think its down to ones experience of BT as whole and the confidence this brings! Openreach guys/girls at one point would give them freely, however no doubt a accountant somewhere had palpitations over this act of generosity! But its Openreach for me, as I wont get any better and it was free!, however never had the nation.
Mortgage Advisor 2000-2008
Green Energy Advisor 2008-2010
Charity Health Care Provider Advisor 2010-
I'm alright Jack....

Will I get this speed guartenteed? (BAD SPELLING)

Right, I know I have asked questions like this before on the forum, sorry lol!! I just want a straight up answer please thank you. I have post office up to 8meg broadband, get about 5 meg, infinity says january on the checker (so probably about march, cos they put the date back), I only get 2 bars of signal on my laptop and xbox ONLY in my room, my laptop has a built in n adapter and my xbox has an external n adapter, my router is a g router, if I changed to infinity next year will I get a guartenteed speed of: Minimum 10 meg download, Minimum 0.5meg upload, Maximum 60 ping, on a wireless connection with 2 bars of signal? Sorry for the long question, thanks for reading.

Bullitt wrote:
you may as well post the speed of your car cos thats irrelevant too
Not really, he was wondering if he could get the speed to the Internet. I merely gave an example of the speeds with very little setup.
If this helped you please click the Star beside my name.
If this answered your question please click "Mark as Accepted Solution" below.

Not getting gigabit speeds when I should be...

My setup is like this. On the first floor, I have my DSL modem and my Airport Extreme. I have 2 computers hooked up, one with a gigabit card and the other with an older 10/100 card. I also have a piece of Cat6 cable running through the wall to the upstairs where it plugs into a netgear gigabit switch. This then feeds my MacBook, printer and AppleTV.
The problem is that I get gigabit speeds between devices connected to the netgear, and I get gigabit speeds directly off the Airport Extreme, but I'm only getting 100Mbps from the cable that comes upstairs. The cable is less than 50ft.
I wired the cable myself, so I'm not ruling out error on my part, however I've made other cables from the same spool of Cat6 and using the same RJ45 connectors and get gigabit speeds. Does anyone have any ideas?

I would not waste time trying to conform to Category 6. Until 10 Gb/s devices become commonplace I'm not going to think about it, and then you'll need 6a anyway. Category 5e is sufficient for Gigabit.
The TIA specification is hundreds of pages long and the links I had no longer work. For most do-it-yourself purposes a few key items to watch out for are:
No cheap cables. Proper cable will be marked tested to 350 MHz. Solid cable is better for long lengths, stranded is better for shorter lengths. Use shielded cable in the presence of strong magnetic fields.
Use the proper plugs and jacks rated for Category 5e. There are differences between plugs for stranded vs. solid cable and they're not interchangeable.
No more than 1/2" of untwisted cable. Fabricating ends that conform to this limitation is tedious.
Minimum 5 inch bend radius. Too small a radius will cause crosstalk.
Obviously all eight conductors must be intact for Gigabit. Pins 4,5,7, and 8 are not used for 100 Base-T. If one or more aren't properly terminated your connection will work but its speed will revert to 100 Mb/s.

W520: How to get full speed and turbo on battery power

Here is how you get around the on battery max frequency limitation (of 1.2 GHz, at least for my i7-2620M) and no turbo (well, almost, read on):
0. Assuming you have max performance enabled everywhere possible (BIOS/PowerManager/Windows Power Scheme)
1. Load ThrottleStop.
2. Set the multiplier manually to your maximum multiplier (e.g., 27x for i7-2620M, 23x for i7-2820QM, etc...) or Turbo (which is the setting after your max multiplier).
3a. Enable ThrottleStop
3b. (optional) Check in CPU-Z and make sure that your highest multiplier is being used when the CPU is utilized. If you selected Turbo, you should have turbo enabled at this point.
4. Disable ThrottleStop
5. Exit ThrottleStop, so that it doesn't waste any battery power, since it is no longer needed
This will change the max frequency (and max multiplier) available from whatever Lenovo decided to arbitrarily fix it at (e.g., 1.2GHz) to the correct max frequency (which in my case is 2.7 GHz / 3.2 GHz for turbo). Now your laptop will be able to correctly go from 800MHz to whatever is the max frequency of your CPU, using both EIST and C1E. Turbo will also kick in, if you enabled it in ThrottleStop and the Lenovo PowerManager app will even show it as enabled.
Thanks Unclewebb for letting us get around this stupid max CPU frequency limitation that Lenovo has imposed on us.
Disclaimer:
Do this at your own risk, since Lenovo does not officially support it.
Turn on active cooling, if you do CPU intensive stuff for any prolonged period of time. This will take away some on battery time, but if battery time is of ultimate concern to you, then this change is probably not for you to begin with.
If you go through prolonged periods of CPU intensive activity, you will lower your battery life and produce a lot of battery heat, because you will have a relatively high discharge rate. A high discharge rate reduces both the number of charge cycles and the maximum charge capacity of a Li-Ion battery. I don't know how safe all of this is, so do this at your own risk and probably monitor temperatures along the way. Other laptops can do Turbo and full speed on battery power (e.g., the slim 3 lb Sony Z, with the i7-2620M), but then other laptops have different designs and cooling systems, so who knows how the Lenovo W520 hardware will react to this.

Hi,
I have the opposite problem - my i7-2720QM is fixed at 2.2GHz no matter how hard I spank 1, 2 or all cores, and no matter what System Performance settings I apply. It even runs at this speed, and gives the same bench marks when on battery with the "system performance" set to Low.
No one even knows what the various System Performance settings actuall mean. E.g. Neither Lenvo support nor these forums could tell me what the difference between "Maximum Turbo","Turbo" or even "Low" under "System Performance" in the Lenovo power manager Advanced settings.
I have been trying go get turbo boost to work for 2 months. I have wasted so much time with this machine, I could have bought 2 Macbook pros for the cost of the time lost.
I dont know why Lenovo have disabled the turbo boost (and the opposite, turbo drop?) feature for this CPU - is it deliberate, or incompetence? Its certainly false marketing and extremely annoying that I have to use my ancient PC to do single threaded type work which I know the Laptop can manage if it were not crippled.
So people whos clock speed drops when on battery are the lucky ones. Mone doesnt even if I want it to.

Shouldn't I be able to get higher speeds?

I'm on the 1.5 to 3.0 tier, the CO is 2 miles away by car, and my modem stats are:
Transceiver Revision 3.3.6.10.0.1
Vendor ID Code 4D54
Line Mode ADSL_G.dmt
Data Path INTERLEAVED
Transceiver Information -- Down / Up
DSL Speed (Kbits/Sec) --- 1504 / 448
Margin (dB) -------------- 26.9 / 18.0
Line Attenuation (dB) ---- 51.7 / 31.5
Transmit Power (dBm) --- 18.4 / 11.9
I'm lucky to pull 1300/386 on a regular basis. The only way I ever get even 1.5 dl is after a ticket has been opened by "support", and even then it only lasts a week or two before dwindling back down to 1.3. My modem stats are consistent, with the only variation being the downstream margin dropping to 25.1 when someone is using our phone, which is on its own line. The dsl line is dedicated straight from the NID.
Shouldn't I be able to get better numbers?

Weather isn't an issue, as I'm in the middle of the Mojave desert.
We do have a 'whole house' filter, and our phone service is crystal clear.
I've had it estimated that we're about 14000 line-feet from the CO, so we're close to the 3 mile cutoff. In fact, when my wife made the switch to dsl about 5 or 6 years ago (before I was in the picture), I believe she was told she was borderline on getting the 1.5-3.0 tier.
And out town is so small - 4 x 5 miles - I guess I should be happy to even get dsl. With Verizon slowing down FiOS expansion, I doubt I'll see it here soon, if ever.
Thanks for your time,
DR

Been trying to get new speed from 8 Meg since Febr...

In December we received a letter stating our bt contract was running out, we phoned up to renew our contract, whilst talking with the sales person we also talked about our exchange that was being upgraded in February to 21CN WBC. They told us that renewing this contract would up us on the priority list for the new speed switch over.
We are still waiting for our line to be changed to the new modulation, we have had numerous calls to bt asking what is going on and why we haven't been switched over yet, only to put through countless line tests and being asked to check our master sockets and filters.
on Wednesday the 25 July 2012 it seemed like I made some progress speaking with someone who actually sounded like they knew what they where talking about over the telephone, they stated that our line would be switched from adsl max to adsl 2 and it would take 48 hours and then it would be done. It's now Sunday and our speeds and modulation are still exactly the same.
Could some one please help it's been months of trying to get anywhere over the bt phone helplines.
Here are my router stats
ADSL Line Status
Connection Information
Line state:
Connected
Connection time:
1 days, 02:46:31
Downstream:
7.938 Mbps
Upstream:
448 Kbps
ADSL Settings
VPI/VCI:
0/38
Type:
PPPoA
Modulation:
G.992.1 Annex A
Latency type:
Fast
Noise margin (Down/Up):
10.2 dB / 29.0 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up):
23.4 dB / 13.0 dB
Output power (Down/Up):
19.9 dBm / 11.8 dBm
FEC Events (Down/Up):
0 / 0
CRC Events (Down/Up):
0 / 0
Loss of Framing (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Signal (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Power (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
HEC Events (Down/Up):
0 / 0
Error Seconds (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Sam knows exchange link
http://www.samknows.com/broadband/exchange/LCECC
bt wholesale exchange link for speeds
For Telephone Number on Exchange ECCLESTON
Your exchange is ADSL enabled, and our initial test on your line indicates that your line should be able to have an ADSL broadband service that provides a fixed line speed up to 2Mbps.
Our test also indicates that your line currently supports an estimated ADSL Max broadband line speed of 8Mbps; typically the line speed would range between 7Mbps and 8Mbps.
Our test also indicates that your line currently supports an estimated ADSL2+ broadband line speed of 13.5Mbps; typically the line speed would range between 11.5Mbps and 15.5Mbps. Our test also indicates that your line could support an estimated ADSL 2+ Annex-M broadband upstream line speed of 1Mbps and downstream line speed of 13.5Mbps; typically the downstream speed would range between 11.5Mbps and 15.5Mbps.
The actual stable line speed supportable will be determined during the first 10 days of use. This speed may change over time, to ensure line stability is maintained.
If you decide to place an order, a further test will be performed to confirm if your line is suitable for the service you wish to purchase.
Thank you for your interest.
Please note that postcode and address check results are indicative only. Most accurate results can be obtained from a telephone number check.
Note: If you already have a Broadband service enabled on this line and you want to switch service providers, you will need to contact both your current provider and your new provider to get your service changed over new and existing service provider to have this service transferred.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

After talking with the care team My conenction is now on the new adsl 2 speeds thanks to David.
The main reason We were after the new speeds was the new upload speed, it seems my download speed has been improved but my upload speed is still the same.
Would I need to re contact the care team after the 10 days training period on the line training to see about getting the new upload speed also?
ADSL Line Status
Connection Information
Line state:
Connected
Connection time:
4 days, 09:58:30
Downstream:
16.99 Mbps
Upstream:
443.9 Kbps
ADSL Settings
VPI/VCI:
0/38
Type:
PPPoA
Modulation:
G.992.5 Annex A
Latency type:
Fast
Noise margin (Down/Up):
5.4 dB / 28.1 dB
Line attenuation (Down/Up):
22.8 dB / 12.8 dB
Output power (Down/Up):
20.0 dBm / 12.1 dBm
FEC Events (Down/Up):
0 / 0
CRC Events (Down/Up):
22195 / 0
Loss of Framing (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Signal (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
Loss of Power (Local/Remote):
0 / 0
HEC Events (Down/Up):
205523 / 0
Error Seconds (Local/Remote):
7840 / 21

Getting "n" speed!

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