Getting ready for print...HELP!!!

Ok, so I'm working with another designer (honestly I am, it's not me, LOL) who has laid out a magazine we're working on in InDesign CS3. He sends the exported .PDF file(s) to the printer only to have them reply back saying that there is no bleed on the pages. I check out the files he's done and low and behold the document was setup at 8.5x11. The designer says its ok, he can change the export options to add the bleed in, so he does that and the printer still says there is no bleed.
Now, correct me if I'm wrong but does InDesign shrink everything down to fit inside of an 8.5x11 and then add the bleed, therefore not actually resizing the document to 8.75x11.25?
Should the designer have started out with a page size of 8.75x11.25 in the first place?

Any items that need butt up against the page edge (bar the items that are towards the middle (spine) ) need to be extended past the page edge.
Make sure that any Type that has to appear in the printed version is kept away from the page edge as you don't want type to be trimmed off.
You need to physically make them larger by going to each page. Looking at all the page items and using the selection tool to drag the handles out so that the image/frame etc. come right off the page (about .125pt)
You can set up a guide in File>Document Setup>More Options and Bleed
That will put a red guide around each page to show you where items need to be out as far as to be included for when you export the pdf with bleed.
If there is nothing in the area then nothing will be exported in that area.
DO NOT resize your document.

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Getting ready for printing...

I have a Canon G12 and shoot in RAW format. I know the native aspect ration for this camera in RAW is 4:3. I also know already that the two sizes of finished prints I am interested in are 8x10 and 16x20. After importing the images from my camera into my computer (and into Aperture), I can see that the pixel dimensions for my RAW images are 3648x2736 for portrait (and vice versa for landscape).
After making whatever color correction and changes to the image, I am happy with what I have. So moving onto the crop and aspect ration and dpi settings - and then the export to have an altered and saved new image to send off for printing - this is where I feel totally lost.
For example...the crop sizes listed, I see 4x5/8x10 - my understand is that these sizes...4x5, 8x10, 16x20 - they are all the exact same aspect ration - so no matter how big or small I want to print the image, as long as I want one of those sizes, it would be fine, correct?
When I initially click on the 4x5/8x10 selection, it puts a small crop area in the center of the photo. But it allows me to drag the corners to enlarge the crop area, so I am curious to know...is the 4x5/8x10 crop area that initial smaller section, or is it still the same even if I click and drag ou the corners making it larger.
Does anyone know also, how/where do I change the dpi to 300?
And lastly, how do I know if I have enough pixels to make an 8x10 or a 16x20. I have RAW files and JPEGS - and they all vary in pixel dimension. Is there a simple process to figure out if what I see on the computer screen will look the same as a finished print?

Excellent questions ... that cover a lot of ground.
3648 / 2736 = 1.333333333. The aspect ration is 4:3.
Are you printing from Aperture or sending a file out to be printed? If printing from Aperture, all you need to do is create a Version that is ready to print, and then print it. Printing from Aperture is an export-and-print operation -- there is no need to export the file and save it.
(This is worth understanding. In Aperture, you make Images that are ready to be exported (or printed), but you don't create files (or prints) until you need them.)
The aspect ratio has no units -- it is just a ratio. It describes not the size of a rectangle, but the ratio of the sides of a rectangle. 4:3, 8:6, 1.33:1 are all identical aspect ratios.
Once you have set the aspect ratio, you can set the size (and position) of your rectangular crop by dragging the crop box handles or the crop box itself.
Generally speaking, you will want at least 150 pixels for each inch to be printed, and don't need more than 300. 150 ppi is a slightly impracticable minimum -- you will likely want to use some sophisticated up-rezing to get a stellar print. 200-250 ppi is enough. 300 ppi is plenty. All of this is based on norms of printers, ink, papers, and display (distance, lighting) that may or may not fit your needs.
For a 16" x 20" print that looks good at arm's length 3,200 x 4,000 pixels should suffice.
Aperture includes soft-proofing. You select a profile of the printer, paper, and the printing settings, and Aperture will apply this to your Image and show you what should be a match. Soft-proofing is complicated. At a minimum, you will need a high-quality monitor and hardware calibration.
The User Manual covers much of this in detail particular to Aperture, including a section on Proofing. Well worth reading.
Message was edited by: Kirby Krieger

Need help getting ready for print

I am running Photoshop CS5 on a Mac 10.8.4.
I have basic photoshop experience.
My designer has left me in the lurch at a daedline and I need to get some material to the printer ASAP.
The design is finished.
The printer wants all the text outlined and the images embedded then a "high quality PDF" submitted to print.
Please can someone tell me how to outline text and imbed images. (I know how to savw to PDF).
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Select a Text Layer and invoke
Type > Convert to Shape
to make the text layer a layer with a vector mask.
As for embedding images if you create the pdf in Photoshop I don’t see the relevance of the request.
But the settings you choose for Compression and Output are relevant factors.
Which Color Space does the printer request? (And please don’t say CMYK …)
What is the Color Space and Color Mode of the file you work on?

Bugs in iPhoto once card is ready for print service

Bug changes fonts in iPhoto once card is ready for print service. "Windowpane" layout line width bug for card printing service: in quadrant windowpane mode, one of the lines was too wide, not like the other three. Deleted it and selected the windowpane again and it was OK.

You only get one opportunity to set up the hard drive under publish and the folder cannot be changed unless you get a plug-in to provide a work around.
However you could just create a generic publish folder - something like Photo Lab, or Print Job.
But you could then right click on your publish folder and select “make target collection” - you will see the plus sign added.
Simply highlight the photos you want to print and press B (the same as adding to a quick collection) and your Publish Services folder on your hard drive will be populated with the exports.
The real problem is that you would need to edit the publish settings every time you required different dimensions etc (not sure possible). I use a similar system, which works well and I like how I can see what has already been published and what is still to be published but my prints are always the same size and resolution.

RE: Getting ready for production

Take the Forte Project Management Class. It tell you everything you
need to know
to go live.
ka
From: Julie Muth[SMTP:[email protected]]
Sent: Monday, August 18, 1997 9:39 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Getting ready for production
We'll be deploying our first application into production in the near
future and I'ld be interested in any advice you have to offer - horror
stories, successes, what worked, what didn't, what you would do
differently. Also, any advice on the organization and skill set of the
people doing deployments would be appreciated.
Julie Muth
Assistant Project Director
NYS Division of Criminal Justice Services
Albany, NY
[email protected]

Ok... here we go, not sure what you are doing except editing DV right now,
but this will work for HDV, DVCPROHD, Uncompressed SD and some ProRes
as long as you have a good Gigabit Router to transfer files. Please consult
a professional if this sounds scary to you.
*Redundant FILE SERVER* for project files, important stuff
1. Install at least 4GB RAM in G5 #1 (max $200)
3. Make sure there are two identical SATA drives in the G5. Install OSX Leopard Server ($499) on 1 drive. Use Carbon Copy Cloner (Free... http://www.bombich.com/software/ccc.html) and clone
the main drive to SATA drive #2 when drive #1 is set up completely. Use drive #2 as backup.
4. Connect CalDigit 2.56TB HDOne External Hard Drive Array (RAID-5) with PCI-X adapter ($2830)
SubTotal: $3600...ish
*Current MacPro* Add unprotected scratch disk for main edit suite
1. Install Sonnet Tempo SATA e4p Serial ATA Host Adapter ($260)
2. Connect Sonnet 2.5TB Fusion D500P eSATA Array System (RAID-0) ($1700)
Subtotal: $2000...ish
*2nd G5* convert to p2 Logging/backup Station
1. Sony BWU-200S Internal 4x Blu-ray Disc Rewritable Drive (599.95)
2. Roxio Toast ($85)
SubTotal: $700
*NEW Intel MacPro* will increase productivity
1. 8 Core 3ghz Intel MacPro ($3600)
Total: Around 9900-10,000
(Buy from PowerMax.com or other out of state vendor to avoid sales tax)
If you want to organize things, then FCS will help. You can install
on G5#2 for 999.00 more. I would focus on hardware first though.

I am trying to crop a portrait photo into 6x4 portrait ready for printing. Iphoto only crops it landscape and therefore cuts out most of the photo. Is there any way of resolving this?

I am trying to crop a portrait photo into 6x4 portrait ready for printing. I am using Iphoto on a Macbook Pro. Everytime I try and crop the photo, it crops in Landscape which cuts out most of the photo. Is there any way of resolving this? I am new to Macs as I am currently switching from MS. It is very easy to do this in MS photo editor so I can't believe it can't be easily done in Iphoto!

These are the two steps that Larry describes:
#1
#2

How do I save a PDF ready for print. I have a problem with the fonts. The fonts are blurry after pri

How do I save a PDF ready for print. I have a problem with the fonts. The fonts are blurry after printing. There is a trick in saving PDF.

Hi el_giclee,
Important to note from the beginning is that when you create your Photoshop document make sure you chose 300 Pixels/inch as your resolution.
I'm interested in seeing your Save Adobe PDF dialog box after you choose to save the PDF.
Could you post a screenshot of this dialog box with the Compression menu selected on the left side?
It's a good idea to select High Quality Print or Press Quality in the Adobe PDF Preset menu at the top of this box. It will automatically select the best default settings for a printed piece.
Michael

MOVED: MSI reveals AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard Get ready for high end AMD GAMING

This topic has been moved to MSI AMD boards.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=181363.0

Quote from: defetonezzzzz on 25-June-14, 19:19:45
MSI, world leading in motherboards, debuts its first AMD AM3+ socket based GAMING motherboard, the MSI 970 GAMING. Inherited with the outstanding DNA of MSI's award winning GAMING family, the new MSI AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard features Killer LAN for the best online GAMING experience, Audio Boost 2 powered by Creative Sound Blaster Cinema2 for astonishing sound quality that gives you the upper hand on the battlefield, USB Audio Power and a whole new hardware and software design for enhanced gaming performance. Get ready for high end AMD GAMING with MSI.
Link?
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/970_GAMING.html#hero-overview
Anyone know the TDP of this board?
In a comparison it looks practically identical to the 125W G46-970a. Except the G46 has a sound optical out--the features list says the Gamer board doesn't--and the board pics confirm that. Board looks to have better software than the G46--possibly better sound output, maybe.

MSI reveals AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard Get ready for high end AMD GAMING

MSI, world leading in motherboards, debuts its first AMD AM3+ socket based GAMING motherboard, the MSI 970 GAMING. Inherited with the outstanding DNA of MSI's award winning GAMING family, the new MSI AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard features Killer LAN for the best online GAMING experience, Audio Boost 2 powered by Creative Sound Blaster Cinema2 for astonishing sound quality that gives you the upper hand on the battlefield, USB Audio Power and a whole new hardware and software design for enhanced gaming performance. Get ready for high end AMD GAMING with MSI.

Quote from: defetonezzzzz on 25-June-14, 19:19:45
MSI, world leading in motherboards, debuts its first AMD AM3+ socket based GAMING motherboard, the MSI 970 GAMING. Inherited with the outstanding DNA of MSI's award winning GAMING family, the new MSI AM3+ 970 GAMING motherboard features Killer LAN for the best online GAMING experience, Audio Boost 2 powered by Creative Sound Blaster Cinema2 for astonishing sound quality that gives you the upper hand on the battlefield, USB Audio Power and a whole new hardware and software design for enhanced gaming performance. Get ready for high end AMD GAMING with MSI.
Link?
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/970_GAMING.html#hero-overview
Anyone know the TDP of this board?
In a comparison it looks practically identical to the 125W G46-970a. Except the G46 has a sound optical out--the features list says the Gamer board doesn't--and the board pics confirm that. Board looks to have better software than the G46--possibly better sound output, maybe.

Packaging .AI file to PDF ready for printer - MAC Tiger user

Hallo, I need some help please about sending artwork to printer who is using a FUJI colour Laser printer. (like most printers who are using laser here they reply to me to simply send them PDF, when I ask about embedded profiles or not to embed they tend to look at me blankly and say just send them a proof for me to compare colours)?!?!?!?
So, Please could someone confirm wether or not I have applied the best setting in my PDF conversions: I am running CS3 creative suite and acrobat version 8.0. thanks.
When you get the PDF options window on the " save Adobe pdf", On the first GENERAL page I set this to PDF/x-1a, (but why is there also the standard tab where I can do the same thing? so I set this also to PDF/x-1a. The compatibility goes to acrobat 4.0.
I now go to OUTPUT. here I set the following:
Colour conversion -- convert to destination preserve numbers
Destination (since this is laser I set it to -- Generic cmyk profile
Profile inclusion policy is grayed out.
In PDF/X box under output intent profile name is set to Generic cmyk, and that is all.
Before i did all this my global colour settings management policy is set to FOGRA27 (iso 12647-2:2004) and adobe RGB 1998 for the photos from photoshop cs3 of course. I then convert the document to the generic cmyk profile before packaging it into PDF and assigning these settings.
I have searched everywhere for detailed tutorials about precisely how to pakage your work for an outside printer, but the web is silent when it comes to laser printing. I would love to know if there are any resources which cover all the issues of preparing your artwork for print since this side of the job is a minefield of complicated presets and flattening and font changing techniques.
I am a memeber of Lynda.com and while they are excellent teachings and professional, I have unfortunately not been able to learn the gritty detailsof printing from them, only the basics.
I appreciate the person who takes the time to reply to this.
I thank you.
Kind regards
Chris Watts

Your settings should do the job adequately, but there is a much simpler and more reliable method. Get Acrobat Professional. Generate your artwork in AI and save it as an .eps file. Then use Acrobat Distiller to generate the .pdf file. The advantages are that AD produces MUCH smaller file sizes, much better .pdf files and has a number of presets from which to choose, depending on the intended purpose of the file.
Another hint as far as quality control is concerned - you should be working in the CMYK color space in Photoshop, if you are going to produce CMYK images in the .pdf file. CMYK is a narrower color space than RGB, so there is often a color shift upon conversion. You may have the image exactly the way you want it, as an RGB, but be disappointed in the printed version because of the shift in color during conversion. If you work in CMYK, you can adjust it to get the results you want.

Getting ready to sell, help appreciated!

Hey guys, Im getting ready to sell my 8330 on Sprint and I want to make sure I get this thing completely wiped clean. I did the Wipe clean in the security settings, I removed all media, I just want to make sure when I sell it the next person wont be able to restore it at all. I want to take my Sim card out right? Is their anything im forgetting? Thanks for the help!

hello,
what is your question ?
1) it's easy to put the microSD card in. Just keep in mind that the metal part is like a door. Open the door by sliding it (there are little arrows on it), put the memory card in it, close the door, then slide to lock the door.
2) he memory card belongs to you, there are datas on it ; I don't know if they are erased by the wiping but I doubt it. I think you don't want the new owner to find pictures of you in your bathroom.
The search box on top-right of this page is your true friend, and the public Knowledge Base too:

Getting ready for a video capture project, need some guidance

Hi, I'm getting ready to hold an xbox LAN tournament and I would like to capture the game to my computer so I can give people DVDs of it afterwards. The G5 i my first tower and I've had no experience in PCI cards and capturing A/V and all that jazz.
Basically I'm going to be having an input of component cables (though its only going to be 480p, no HD) and possibly optical audio, though more likely analog because I'm going to try to borrow a mixer and run everyone's headsets into the G5.
What am I going to need as far as a video capture card? Will it work in the PCI-X slot or am I going to have to swap it with my 9650 XT?
Also, I'm guessing I'm going to have to buy final cut express to do the software capturing (Seriously, if you couldn't tell already, I really have no idea what I'm doing )
I'm willing to buy the hardware and software required and get some books to figure out the process, but if anyone could point me in the right direction, that would be awesome.
Thanks a bunch,
Sean

I use a Canopus DV converter to capture analog video/audio to my computer. I've got the ADVC-100 which has been updated to ADVC-110 and costs about $250. It connects via firewire and works like a charm. I capture using iMovie HD which more than meets my needs for now. I burn dvd's using iDVD which also meets my current needs. My setup is audio-video source, usually a vcr, to the ADVC-100, to the G5 via firewire. Make sure you've got plenty of dick space available to capture. I use aa 320 gb external SATA RAID set. It's really an easy setup and capturing and buring using Apple's software is a snap. Not a steep learning curve. I would suggest if your going to use more advanced software to get a few projects under your belt before the tournament, if you're going to use the iApps you'll find them much easier to learn and will be up and running sooner.

Getting ready for Web produce - is just select by filter okay?

I'm getting ready to produce wedding shots for the web. Just to make sure, I wanted to ask:
Do I just tag the images in this set that I want to appear in the web site and do a 'select by' filter selection for the one's I have marked? And will those then be the only one's that appear in the final web site?
Thank You, I hope this is the way this works,
Ken

You can tag/flag/star images then filter by that tag/flag/star. Then the Web gallery will only include the filtered images. What doesn't work is selecting a group of images then trying to make a Web gallery of just those. The Web gallery will use all images shown in the thumbnail view, rather than just the selected ones. (In other words, you need to use a filter.)
However, collections have the added virtue of allowing resequencing.

Getting ready for Infinity ?

Hi,
I've just checked on-line and found that I can not get Infinity at 55mb.
However, It's stating that this can only be connected to my master socket in the hallway ( I have no poer in the hallway) and I use my current Hub3 in my office at the back of the house.
I've had a look at the master socket and there appears to be a Cat5 cable going out of the back of the socket, directly outside and around the house, coming into my office and directly into another wall socket.
With this in place will I be able to have the Infinity installation in my office ?
Regards
Derek

true some of the contractors are like that if you get an Openreach engineer you should have no problem
If you want to say thanks for a helpful answer,please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side If the reply answers your question then please mark as ’Mark as Accepted Solution’

Getting ready for delivery - Ringtone question

I have a number of music clips that I have used as ringtones on my Samsung Blackjack. When I take delivery of iPhone can I transfer these files via iTunes to the iPhone and use them as ringtones there? Thanks for any help!

you can do it in itunes, rightclick on the song and "convert to AAC". This converts it to m4a. Then you go into windows and change the extension to m4r.
This article has detailed instructions http://www.wired.com/software/coolapps/news/2007/09/ringtone_hacks
It says it's for itunes 7.4 but it worked for me with the latest version and still works with the 2.01 update.

Getting ready for print...HELP!!!

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