Getting the best possible DVD encodes out of Compressor

Is there a decent guide somewhere about how best to set Compressor DVD encode projects up? I take it using the standard two-pass encode settings probably isn't ideal and some tweaks would possible yield better results.
I just read this on another site - Can somebody explain what this is all about?
+The program I used is a Windows software encoder that costs a lot less money than you'd think. I manually operated it (that is, told it which frame was to be an I frame, a P frame, or on rarer occasions, a B frame) by hand rather than letting it assign automatically.+
+Tweaking the GOP structure like this is essential for getting the most out of it, and beyond a certain point actually has more of an effect on the picture quality than bit-rate.+

Is there a decent guide somewhere about how best to set Compressor DVD encode projects up? I
take it using the standard two-pass encode settings probably isn't ideal and some tweaks would
possible yield better results.
If you're serious about this, you should also invest in a book dedicated to video encoding. Just look on amazon.com for the latest editions byt the tow or three main authors, search for "encoding" and "video encoding."
The process of getting the best possible image out of MPEG2 is tedious, more like accounting than moviemaking. The best software allows you to carefully preview the results, compare them, and is likely to be supported by a realtime encoding card. And that means it's a very expensive PC application.
At NAB2008 a new product was announced for Compressor that was supposed to provide near real time professional grade MPEG2 encoding. Cant' recall the name. It was about $3k IIRC.
bogiesan

Similar Messages

Getting the best possible output video quality in Premiere 8.0

Here is my PC information:
Windows 7 64 bit
Intel Quad Core Q6600 @2.40 Ghz
4.0 GB of Ram
My Camera information:
Kodak Playsport HD
Records videos in HD 720P @ 60 FPS
Saves movies in .MOV format, 1280 x 720 resolution, and H.264 codec
Now I am playing around with the settings but when I edit movies in Premiere Elements and then save it I always lose a lot of quality. I'm not really interested in sharing the videos on the web, I'm just looking for the best possible quality (as close to how it looks in its original form) for viewing on my home computer. Can anybody help me out with decent export settings that will give me the best overall quality?

Hello Bill and thank you for your respone, I appreciate it. I've managed to get the overall quality of the movie a lot better with using different presets at new project. I am now using the preset NTSC-HDV-HDV720p 30 and that seems to be working a lot better. I also save the final movies as a Quicktime file, with a Local Area Network (LAN) and then I go to advanced and bring up the quality to 100, change it to 1280x720, bring the frame rate up to 60, and set the bitrate at 8000.
I am now having a different problem however. It seems that when I add a music to the background the song messes up frequently. What I mean is that when I'm watching the movie I created the video will be playing normally and then at random times the song will skip or get choppy. Then on top of that, with certain transitions between scenes the transition won't even work, it will just freeze for a bit and then skip to the next scene (On a side note, I leave the "Field Type" as "Progressive" and the "Aspect" as "Square Pixels [1.0] simply because I'm not sure what those are for).
I just uploaded this practice video to youtube, if you want to check it out it's at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVorCPASaGM
Keep in mind I just threw together a couple random pictures and clips just to practice haha. You will be able to notice that the song and video get slightly choppy for some reason.
Thanks in advance!

Please suggest a method and some settings to get the best quality DVD

I’m trying to find the correct settings to use to make the best quality DVD of an iMovie project. It includes still photos (a couple use the Ken Burns effect), movie clips, titles, maps, transitions, and audio. The project is 33 minutes long. So far, I have burned it by using 3 different methods and the results vary, but not one of the three is optimal for everything. Is it possible to make a DVD that has the best quality of everything or do you have to sacrifice one thing to get the best of another? Here’s the workflow for each method.
#1 iMovie09 ->share to media (960x540) ->burned with iDVD (best). Everything is acceptable except for the movie clips which have low quality with smeared details.
#2 iMovie09 ->export to Quicktime (Apple intermediate codec, current frame rate, data rate-auto, compressor native, 1440x1080) ->burned with
Toast 9. Compared to the first method, the titles are pixelated, the animated map arrows show jaggies, one Ken Burns zoom shimmers a lot, the quality of the photos is slightly less, but the movie clips are a lot better and are acceptable.
#3 Quicktime .mov file from #2 ->MPEGStreamClip (deinterlace, all other settings auto or default ->burned with Toast 9. Movie clips are the best of the 3 methods, photo quality is better than #2, but not as good as #1. Titles and other effects are just a little better than #2, but not as good as #1.
Can anyone suggest some settings using any combination of the programs mentioned above to produce a DVD that has the best photo, effects quality, and movie clip quality all on one DVD?
Rick

from a prior post, I find this worked quite well, but i think you already thought it was not that good for you, i did not get the 'smeared details" or so I thought:
"In iMovie, do not "Share to iDVD", it makes a pretty bad product. Instead,
"Share to Media Browser" and choose the "HD" version if you can, this will take your iMovie project and export it (Can take an hour or 2) into a 720p movie (that looks close to your original iMovie project). That 720p .mov file will be hidden in the iMovie's Project's file; access it if you want by right clicking on the project, show contents, movies (but you dont need to look at it as it is directly accessible through iDVD). SO after the movie has exported, you then open iDVD and click on the MEdia button in the lower R corner, then Choose MOvies, then choose iMovie and you should be able to see that 720p movie that iMovie made. Drag that movie version into iDVD's window (after setting up your theme, background music etc) and then burn. It should look pretty good. Remember, all DVDs are compressed to standard definition (SD) so you will lose definition from the 720p to the 480 resolution of a DVD, but hopefully it will be fine.

How do I get the best quality DVD rip?

I need to rip some video from a DVD (my own work, no copyright issue) and everythign I try makes a noticably inferior quality video image. I have used Handbrake and a few different commericial utilities. I am looking to acheive a file size which is similar to the file on the DVD, which is about 1 GB. I tried one utility which converted to Apple Pro Res .mov, but it made the file a massive 8 GB, but the image looked significantly worse! Can't understand that. I know the image is compressed on a DVD, but what is the best way to get it off and looking no less quality than it did on the DVD. I eventually want to edit that file in Final Cut Pro X to make a showreel.
Thanks

Tom Wolsky wrote:
That's wrong. You should use 720x480 anamorphic, which is what the original file should be if it was correctly made. I can't say what rip it is doing but that's the way it works.
I don't see the option to use "anamorphic", so it comes out 4:3. How do I fix that?
In terms of Ripit's involvement in the process, I have also tried this using Streamclip, direct from a DVD and get the same results, so for all intents, Ripiit is not a factor here. I only use it to get the encrypted DVD on to my drive (see earlier note about the material being my own work!).
The distortion I see seems to coincide where interlace shows the most distortion too, so I'm figuring this may be related to de-interlacing, but I do need to de-interlace, so how do I get around that? Here's the same image from the non-interlace output. Otherwise, the Streamclip copy looks good, but stil need to deal with interlace.

How to get the best possible performance when accessing remote files

Hello,
I have recently set up a VPN to allow remote access to an MYOB data file hosted on my Mac Mini at home (MYOB is an accountancy software package for Mac and PC).
My Mac Mini is connected to the internet over a standard ADSL home broadband line, with a terrible upload speed. I think my ISP (BT) quotes 512k upload and up to 8 Meg download. Needless to say, access to the data file is sluggish at best.
Can anybody recommend a better way to host the data file?
I am aware of lots of 'free file hosting' services, a quick Google search brings up loads, but I need to actually open and run the file from its remote location. I cannot download and then upload again because we have multiple user access, and need to ensure the file on the server is not being edited by two people at once.
Thanks for your help...

Thanks for both of your answers.
*Amazon S3 Option*
I preferred the Amazon S-3 option for ease of use and setup, but this does not appear to work. The software accesses the file very quickly indeed, which is great, but I think due to the connection protocol the network volume reports 'zero' disk space remaining.
The MYOB application does not like this, so pops up an error message saying it needs at least '200kb of disk space to open'. This is because, upon opening, it writes a couple of 'lock' files to the disk where the data file is stored.
My previous solution with the Mac Mini used VPN to connect, thus allowing SMB shares for windows users and AFP shares for Mac, and when mounted these network volumes would report the remaining disk space of the Mac Mini itself. MYOB liked this.
Is there any way I can get the network share to report something other than zero disk space remaining?
*Dedicated Server Option*
Otherwise, the VPS option sounds very affordable. I am however unfamiliar with the world of dedicated servers and the Ubuntu OS, but surprised they are so affordable. I would rather go this route than change my home ISP.
Firstly I have never used Linux or typed anything into the command line. So, will I be able to use VNC to access the VPS?
Second, to access the data file, should I continue to use VPN? My current VPN server software supports Linux, so can I use this on Ubuntu?
Thanks again..

Getting the best possible available speed?

During the 5 years since we moved house, our BT download speed has been dropping, and becoming more unstable.
Several Openreach engineers have visited the property, and all say basically that the problem is all down to the very old small section 300 pair copper e-side cable which runs from our nearest exchange (Leominster) - about 5.5km away, to a cabinet which is literally right outside our property, and from which we have a virtually direct feed.
Now, according to the engineer who came today, the 'output' from the exchange is 8Mb/s and a good 'pair' into the cabinet should still give almost 3 Mb/s at the cabinet... not great I know, and no sign of Infinity here yet!
My download speed on the BT Speedtest this morning was a fairly typical 665 Kb/s, but the engineer checked in the cabinet, on another 'pair' (which he later found to be a blocked line) which was showing a speed of about 2.5 Mb/s on his equipment. He duly switched us onto this, but the cabinet speed then only showed about 1.1 Kb/s. His answer to this was... "They must have been using a different ISP!"
I believe that the exchange is also 'used' by Orange and 'TalkTalk' but of course they still have to use the same BT 'cable' from there to the cabinet. My ISP is BT, so who can I contact to ensure that I am receiving the maximum speed which has been shown to be available?
Sorry for the long post, but I can obviously post some more 'stats' if that will help at all, but I think it has been definitely established by now, that it is an 'external', rather than an internal problem... but if it does make any difference I have a Home Hub 3 plugged into the master socket, which feeds my PC directly.

it would help with more stats so please can you post the adsl stats from your router may need to 'show detail' to get all stats (if hub enter 192.168.1.254 in your browser and navigate to adsl or use a-z, if netgear enter 192.168.0.1) and run btspeedtester http://speedtester.bt.com and post the results.
Have you tried the quiet line test? - dial 17070 option 2 - should hear nothing - best done with a corded phone
Someone may then be able to offer help/assistance/suggestions to your problem
If you like a post, or want to say thanks for a helpful answer, please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side of the post.
If someone answers your question correctly please let other members know by clicking on ’Mark as Accepted Solution’.

What will be the best strategy for encoding performance ?

Hi to all.
As I am a rooky with Premier Element 11, I comes to you all to get your feedback with your configuration choice.
My PC is a self made choice:
CPU is Intel Core i7 3770K - 3.5Ghz
GPU is a GeForce GTX 660 OC 2Go or ATI HD 5870
RAM is 16 Go (2x8Go) gskill PC3-10700 (2400 Mhz)
Motherboard is Asus P8Z77-V Pro
SSD is a Samsung Pro 256Go defines as the system (C:\)
Premiere Element is installed on it.
What would you do if you have the choice to buy 1 or 2 HDD 1To SATA III 64Mo (6 Gbit/s) ?
I would like to know where I should put the following files in order to get the best performance to encode a movie in full HD.
- Movie source files
- Premiere Element Temp Files
- Output (final movie file)
Thanks for your idears
Biglooping

The tradition with HDDs is to spread them out on multiple drives to prevent input/output drive bottlenecks. All of the article in the Adobe libraries (that I've found) are aimed at users with workstations that have multiple hard drives and various backup systems. Few articles have mentioned SSDs as apparently they have not been considered trustworthy.
I have a new ASUS i7 laptop and am very happy creating a new folder for each project and putting everything in that folder. I create the folder, put copies of the media I plan to use in it, start a new project and double check in preferences that scratch disks are all set for "same as project".
Since I use the SSD as the work drive, my HDD is for storage and less significant software installations. At 7200 RPM it is relatively fast, but not that important for they way I manage video projects.
At output I get near 1:1 render times, unless there is significant use of effects and multiple video tracks.
The laptop has a 7200 RPM HDD. I tried various suggestions for spreading out the source, temp and output files and got no noticeable improvements in performance. So, if you choose to manage projects like I do, it does not matter much what HDD you buy.
When a project is complete I move the entire folder to another drive for storage and back that up on yet another drive. If I want to work on a project, I can move the entire folder back to the SSD. I find it very convenient.
Bill S
Message was edited by: whsprague to correct spelling errors!

How do i get the best DVD Quality?

HI,
I'm having trouble like many people, to be able to get the best qualiy looking DVD. How do i get my motion menus looking sharp and the colours to say vibrant and not saturate? The quailty reduces compared to the quality i viewed it in the DVD Pro 4 Simulator. Why is this?? What is the best settings to set up a SD DVD? I used: 7 bit-8 bit max, with Two Pass VBR and best motion. How else can i get my meus to look better? Do i change the menu render setting to software rather than hardware, does this make a difference??
Can anyone suggest the best possible settings for a SD DVD Burn?
Help would be extremly apreciated!
Cheers,
Phil
G5 Quad, 4gb Ram, 500 hard drive Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Hi again,
I filmed a timelaspse for the motion background, filmed on a Canon xl1s, mini dv, and then after capturing and editing, i export using quicktime movie, with settings of the compressor set to none and 100%. I can't export using compressor, due to it not being able to connect to the background process. So that is my reason for quicktime movie export. After export i check in quictime player, and it looks fine and obviously the best i can get until i fix the background progress thing.
I understand it will degrade, just not by so much from when i view it in simulator to just an unpleasing unproffesional look.
If i export my audio in quicktime to ac3 what will that to do change my image quality?? And what do you mean by using good quality blanks??
Thanks for replying David
Cheers,
Phil
G5 Quad, 4gb Ram, 500 hard drive Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Advice to get the best out of this machine with cs5

hello out there. i am trying to get the best results out of this setup: win7 64bit, cs5, 2 x Intel Xeon DP X5650, 6x 2.67GHz, 12 GB Ram, nvidea quadro fx 3800, system drive 2TB SATA, data drive 2TB SATA, external esata raid for editing and a blackmagic multibridge extreme.
so here is my question: what would be the perfect setup (scratch disc, page file, preview files etc.)? are there any "tweaks", would it be good to overclock the xeons?
a big thanks to the comunity, greetings from austria,
artefact

wd mybook studio II harddrives.
Those are nice for backup to a limited extent. Not for editing, because it uses green disks on a SATA 150 port in raid0.
With the processors you have, your disk setup is the weakest link in the chain.
Consider a good raid controller, like the Areca Arc-1680Ix-12/16, two Supermicro CSE-M35T drive cages and add a number of Spinpoint F3 or WD RE4 drives (up to 10 with the 2 cages) in Raid3, possibly with a hot-spare disk, depending on the number of disks in the array.

Getting the best quality out of iMovie for Photo Slideshows

Hi, Finally I got my iMac the other day and have been playing around and trying to get the best out of it and was hoping to get some help from here. I have been playing with ilife on a friends mac for a while but never had a go in anger and now need some proper answers. Its quite simple. I create photo dvd slideshows and need to find the best way to do it. As far as I can tell there are a few ways. I can use imovie to get the running order - add the Ken Burns effects (that I DO need) - add music - add transitions and "share" to a .mov file and drag this into iDVD to put a menu on. Ok - this works but I get some MPEG artifacts (I know this is to be expected - I have been doing this for years on a PC). I can drag photos into iDVD but as far as I can tell I cannot have Ken Burns so this is out. I can use iPhoto to make a .mov file and again import this into iDVD. Am I missing something here? iMovie08 seems great and the .mov file is good enough quality to re-render in iDVD without losing too much quality so I guess this is the way to go but is there no way to go without rendering the .mov file and then going into iDVD? I have also used iMovie06 before and it had better transitions between photos - have these been lost in iMovie08?? I have set the quality in iMovie08 to "Profesional" but there stil seems to be a bit of artifacting. Should I try Toast?
Apologies for the long post but am really keen to get this sorted. I have posted before on here and got great responses but just want to get it right 100% before putting lots of effort in. I have next week off work to perfect the photos to DVD slideshow before I start to try to sell these things! many many thanks.Ben

Hi,
Many thanks for the post. It seems to be that iDVD is giving me the render quality issues. I am going to try toast to see what thats like. Thanks for the help with imovie06. I have been using it but it has a bug when you fade music out so cannot use it unfortunately!
Regards

How can I get the best out of my battery life?

There are a variety of things you can do to extend your device battery life, and use your phone for longer periods of time to see you through the day.
Set your screen to timeout after a period of inactivity. This way your phone is not sitting idle with the screen backlight consuming extra energy. The recommended screen timeout is 30 seconds, but most phones will allow from 15 seconds to 10 minutes.
Turn off location services (GPS), Wi-Fi and Bluetooth when not using these functions. When they're on, your phone constantly searches for your current location and open networks, which has a big impact on battery life.
Turn down the screen brightness. For example, on an iPhone 4 the lowest brightness setting gives roughly 6.5 hours of continuous use, whereas the highest setting gives roughly 3.5 hours. You can always adjust the brightness when you're outside so you can still see your screen clearly. Some devices have an auto-brightness setting, where the phone adjusts the screen brightness depending on the light around it.
Close your applications. On smartphones, returning to the ‘home' screen only minimises your apps – they keep running in the background. Closing your apps fully will save power; for example, on Samsung Galaxy devices hold down the home button for two seconds to see a list of all open apps. You can then swipe these to the left of the screen to exit them completely. On an Apple product, double press the home button to bring up all active applications and exit from there.

Re: How can I get the best out of my battery life?
Hi,
When I make phone calls people on the other end have difficulty hearing me. They describe as they can hardly hear me as if I was speaking through the pillow etc). I am not touching any buttons and obviously it is not mute. This was happening couple of time in June, then every now and then. Recently it happened a few time in 2 weeks. I was trying to check if it was a reception issue but the place I spoke from is my office I make 70% of phone calls from. Can you book time for me in repair shop and address the issue.
Thank you.
Sergey Sinitsyn

I Am from Brazil And I Would Like to know if I buy iPad In Hong Kong or In Japan if The Store can Change The language to Brazilian language thats Brazil portuguese. Is That possible??? Where I can get The best price In Hong Kong or In Japan? Than If I but

I Am from Brazil And I Would Like to know if I buy iPad In Hong Kong or In Japan if The Store can Change The language to Brazilian language thats Brazil portuguese. Is That possible???
Where I can get The best price In Hong Kong or In Japan?
Than If I but In one of These countries Do I have The waranty In Brazil?
Which is The newest iPad model The big one With 128 GB? I dont Like The Mini.
Do I buy iPad With Wifi And celular also? It Will be Work In Brazil?
Please I Need a help.
iPad 2 is The newest one or does has another newest one?

Robertafromsp wrote:
Which iPad is The newest do you know?
I am puzzled why you could not find that info yourself on the web in a second or two:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPad#Model_comparison

What's the best option to get the best out of my h...

Prior to the speed upgrade I was connecting at 38MB/ 8MB and now checking my speed via BBMAX I'm connecting at 62MB/14MB (BT speedchecker advised 56.6MB/18MB) so are pleased with the upgrade.
My main pc tests as above connected to the home hub 3 via a Cat 5 cable. Testing the other PCs/ PS3 in the rest of the house the best I can connect is 33MB via a wireless n usb adaptor. I've tried TP link 200MB power line adaptors connected to the home hub and to the PC using the house power circuits and still only obtain 33MB on the speed test (the T link utility shows I'm connecting at 133MB).
I assume my wireless network is being limited due to other older G type devices (such as mobile phones etc) bringing the wireless N network down to their level?
So to get the best out of my broadband in the rest of the house, should I upgrade to TP link 500MB units, get a dual band router (which will run G and N type devices) or are these two upgrades not worth it and should I take a hit and hard wire and have all the problems of running the cat 5 cables to the rest of the house?
PS as a side note my son has the PS Vita and cant get any speed results faster than 13MB on the wireless network

hmmm - you have lots of options and it really pays to think them all through for what you want to achieve. Don't lose sight of that.
i now use time capsule and with the dual band noted an immediate improvement to the extent that i'm nicely wireless throughout my house. My sons use PS3 wirelessly and get a fast, stable connection all the time (16-18mg). I don't care too much that wirelessly might not be best option. It exceeds my needs .
You'll get alot of views from the guys on this forum - each with their own experiences and trials/errors - lots of good learning!!
cheers
AC

I have an iPhone in my name and my wife has an iPad in her name. We have just ordered an iMac and wondered which account we should use to get the best out of all the devices

I have an iPhone in my name and my wife has an iPad in her name. We have just ordered an iMac and wondered which account we should use to get the best out of all the devices? Can we use both accounts in iCloud?

Yes you can. However, it is better to use one person's account most of the time for purchases in the Mac App Store and iTunes since you can share purchases, such as songs, among various devices using the SAME account. You Cannot share purchases among different accounts, though. So make one of your accounts the main "purchasing" account so you can share purchases.
Hope this helps

A check on my settings to get the best out of them.

Just checking base with you as you always offer me the best advice.
Have just received my extra 2gb ram (yipee) which now takes me to the max 4gb allowed for my OS.
Everything is working as it should so l'm wondering whether l'm now getting the best from my system (via the settings).
I can overclock the FSB via rocker switches on the mobo by either 10%,15% or 20%. Can't notice any difference if set at 15% or 20% so have left it at 10% as that seems to show more of a difference over the default than the higher settings. Don't know why it's not faster at 15% or 20% but l can't see it.
Also, if l look at my virtual memory settings in System Properties, for the C drive it is set to custom size, initial size 2046mb, maximum size 4092mb. For the D and F drives which have plenty of space on them, the buttons are just set to no paging file.
The total paging file size for all drives says minimum allowed 2mb, recommended 4990mb, currently allocated 2046mb.
Would you recommend any changes for any of these settings?
Thank you

Quote
Surely a 32 bit system can take 4gb with most of the 4th gig being used up by the OS and video, which means the actual ram available would be a tad over the 3gb mark, ie 3.2gb ish so you need the 4gb to acheive this?
You're sort of right... of course, you can physically have 4GB of memory, but when using a 32bit OS due to addressing limitations there'll only be about 3-3.5gb available RAM. You can use a 64bit OS which is able to address all the RAM, but any 32bit software you run will face the same limitation.
You'll notice I have 4GB RAM in my machine, but I only use a 32bit OS. I'm not really bothered about having only 3.2GB RAM available, as its still more memory than I had previously, and 3.2GB is more than enough for my needs. There isn't any 64bit software available yet that I'm desperate to use, so I'm holding off on installing a 64bit OS, its certainly not worth it yet just so I can have that 'full 4GB' to use.
Quote from: waltari on 30-November-10, 01:55:14
You cannot utilize 4096MB in 32bit enviroment, to do so you need 36bits ... just simple math
I doubt if anyone is going to create a 36bit CPU architecture and operating system, just so someone can utilise 4GB of RAM.

Getting the best possible DVD encodes out of Compressor

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for