GigaWorks T20 Series II connection to a TV?

I currently have a Creative GigaWorks T20 Series II 2.0 Multimedia Speaker System with BasXPort Technology on hold at Amazon pending this clarification. Per the associated Amazon/Creative blurb the following cabling ships with the speakers: ships with speakers: stereo-to-stereo audio cable, and a dual RCA-to-stereo audio TV adapter. Stipulation--I am not 'electronics' knowledgeable.
I have 2 HD TV's, one an LED and the other an LCD--both purchased within the past 2 years. I currently have low end Logitech speakers connected to both TV's via the TV's headphone output jack. The speaker sound is marginal. Your speaker referenced above is third party rated 4 of 5 stars. I plan on purchasing one set and if they perform as advertised I'll purchase a second set for the other TV.
However, I'm utterly confused about the cabling that Creative ships with the speakers. 1. Will the speakers work properly connecting to a TV? 2. If the cables you ship will work with the TV will the sound be as good or better than connecting through the TV's headphone jack as I've been doing? 3. For maximum speaker ability what type of cabling is best (assuming that that is not what you ship with the speakers)?
Mark

Hi Mark,
You can connect the speakers to your TV's headphone jack with the stereo-to-stereo audio cable which is a 3.5mm cable.
The dual RCA-to-stereo audio TV adapter is optional for TV's without the headphone jack. But your TV should have an RCA audio output as well. My LCD TV has both.
Maybe the quickstart guide of the Gigaworks T20 Series II will give you more information.

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Gigaworks T20 Series II - left channel quiet?

I've just got a brand new set of Gigaworks T20 Series II speakers and I'm pretty pleased wit them, however, it seems that the volume level is slightly quieter on the left channel.
Sitting perfectly between the two speakers with no obstruction the audio appears pretty even with music, but when I start playing any games or listening to system generated sounds, it appears that the speakers are out of balance and the right channel is louder than the left.
By tweaking the sound balance it seems I can get it balanced, but I have increase the left channel by a full 25% to get it to sound balanced.
Is there something wrong with one of my speakers?
It sounds perfectly clear, but unless I pump that left channel by 25% the sound field is definitely weighted to the right.

Hi Spaced0g,
Could you double check and make sure that the audio connection to the left speaker is secure?

T20 Series II

I was about to buy a set of T20s when I saw that a lot of people have had problems with them (Gigaworks T20 - ringing sound problem). Are these problems solved by the
Message Edited by jp_bl_68 on 01-21-2009 08:18 AM

Hi Mark,
You can connect the speakers to your TV's headphone jack with the stereo-to-stereo audio cable which is a 3.5mm cable.
The dual RCA-to-stereo audio TV adapter is optional for TV's without the headphone jack. But your TV should have an RCA audio output as well. My LCD TV has both.
Maybe the quickstart guide of the Gigaworks T20 Series II will give you more information.

Gigaworks T20: Headset/Microphone

Hello, I plugged in my headset/microphone into my speakers system gigaworks T20.Problem is that my microphone doesn't work. When I'm calling someone over the internet they can't hear me. I already dit several checks en tests but I can't find what the problem is.
I think dat the speakers doens't have the possibility to use a microphone.
Stijn

stijn,
If you want to use a microphone with your computer software, you need to connect it to your computer sound card instead. The Aux In on the speaker isn't meant for connecting microphone.
Jason

Gigaworks T20 power cut off

I bought a pair of Gigaworks T20 speakers two weeks ago and have been delighted with them up until last night. I was playing a computer game, when the speakers emitted a 'phut' sound as if they'd been turned off. Looking at the speakers I noticed the blue power on LED was off even though the volume control was about half way round. The connecting wires were all secure, and the PSU secure in the surge protected supply. The supply was very hot however. If I removed the power supply and left it for a couple of minutes then plugged it back in I got the power back only for the speakers to die again 20 mins later.
Has anyone else had this problem?

Hi,
Your speaker might be faulty.
Try to get in touch with Support to have it sorted out.
Best of luck.

Gigaworks T20: Help on Decision for Refund (2nd time replacement)

Hi everyone, I bought a pair of Gigaworks T20 a while back. The first pair was found defective - even at mid volume, both cabinets sounded like there was something vibrating inside whenever there's deep bass in the tracks, much more noticeable when the bass is playing solo - this happened on the 4th day of use. I have never set my pair on full volume until I needed to to verify the vibration. The shop replaced it with a new set. New set seemed to work fine for the first 3 days, but today (coincidentally on the 4th day again) - the vibration came back. So I thought maybe it really cannot handle the bass and was ready to just go along with it but when I checked both speakers, the vibration was much prominent in the right speaker. The left speaker was handling the bass better - so there must be something wrong with the build itself, right? Or should I just shrug it off? Should I get another replacement or just get a refund? If I was to get a refund, should I switch to a Klipsch Promedia 2.0 or a Bose Companion 2 Series 2 set? Which manufacturer is known for durability? I'm starting to get frustrated with this model. $100 doesn't come easily to me for a pair of speakers. But I wanted to invest on good sound so I want to make sure I get the best bang for the buck. Please help. Your recommendations will help a lot. Thanks!
Message Edited by slyduck208 on 01-28-2008 02:30 PM

refund

How can I obtain a 'circuit (schematic) diagram' for the: Creative gigaworks T20

How can I obtain a 'circuit's (schematic) diagram' for the: Creative gigaworks T20
Thanks

They have Cs6, however I need to have my own copy, and the highest I can go with my system is CS5, maybe even 5.5. I've a small budget, and most copies are being sold for massive amounts because they're like collector items. I've seen the ones actually affordable within my range from sellers that arent trustworthy, or they're updates which I can't use. I had Cs2, but with updates to operating systems they stopped working. Thank you for your kind assistance.

Which Creative Speakers to buy Next GigaWorks T20-T40, or I-Trigue 3330, 4000 or L3800

Hi just wondering if anyone could make a recommendation on getting some new 2.1 or 2.0 speakers.. After my old Creative 4.1 have died I have been looking at the following models and my main use will be for Music and movies in my room. So they don?t have to be that loud..
Gigaworks T20 & T40
I-Trigue L3800
I-Trigue 3330 or 4000
I heard the T20 and they sound good for a system with no Bass but seam a bit blocky. Next the I-Trigue 3330 also sounded good as long as you don?t crank the volume up too much. As for the I-Trigue L3800 I have read they are a 3 way speakers system and was wondering what people thought of them. Would I get a better sound out of them.
Thanks

Replacement power adapter for Gigaworks T20 speakers

I need a replacement power supply for my Gigaworks T20 speakers. Where do you get this? The Creative Web site seems to have no information about where to get it, so any information would be appreciated.

Try to find out universal AC/DC adapter at amazon/newegg, such as this one (U.K. version): http://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Regulated-2000mA-Adapter-P-007F/dp/B002YY9E/ref=sr__/275-2088-483635?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=262244783&sr=8- It has many plugs, one probably must fit. But before switching the power, one should figure out the polarity of connectors. It's not the first time Creative power supplies show below average reliability. I think Creative should choose top quality power adapter suppliers, such as Antec, Delta or Seasonic, not some cheaper lower quality parts.

"crunching/sparkling/crackling" sound when turning volume knob on Gigaworks T20.

Hi there. I bought a pair of Gigaworks T20 about 3 weeks ago. The last week or so whenever I turn the volume knob up or down there is a slight but very apparent "sparkling/crunching/crackling" noise in the speakers. English is not my native language and I haven't thought to discribe this sound before, so I hope you can understand what I mean, also when I turn the speakers Off there is kind of a crunch and "pop" just before the knobs goes to the off setting. Is this something that is a feature not a bug? Cause seriously if it is, I'll have to throw them out the window as soon as possible. Im very sensitive to these crackling and popping sounds, and getting desperate. I also tried to contact creative customer support but it didn't seem to work, no emails, no contact/Kristian aka Dudemeister

Hello gdorin! My problem turned out to be faulty speakers. What I did was call the place where I bought them, the girl in customer service there told me "yeah, that has happened before". Then she sent me a new pair, which I got the next day, and when I asked what to do with the old ones she just replied, throw them away. =) Quick and easy solution, this is covered by warranty since the speakers are faulty, and should be solved by a replacement. /D

What to use as rear surrounds speakers with a pair of Gigaworks T20s (as fronts)..

Im looking at buying a Creative Labs Soundblaster X-FI XTREME MUSIC Soundcard and a set of Cardsome Gigaworks T20s for MP3s (I like my music!) and gaming...
What I dont know is what to use as my rear surrounds for gaming (for real 5.1 music sound Id use my stereo system downstairs!)
A pair of the cheaper Inspire 280s? Or will this combo sound crap by mixing the two..!?
(and thats chewing up alot of desk space with speakers..!)
Any suggestions appreciated folks..!?

secretsam007,
If you're really into gaming and looking for a 5.1 setup, I would suggest getting a proper 5.1 speaker system rather than hooking 2 pair of stereo speakers.
Jason

Gigaworks T40 series II left speaker less pow

Hi,
I just purchased a Creative Gigaworks T40 series II and i wonder if it's normal that there's a difference between the output volume of the left and right speaker? The right speaker gives quite more volume, is there a way to fix this or is this just normal?
Thanks in advance!

Originally Posted by Dave_
Please help me daniel_K. All I want to do is send 5.1 sound to my Sony amp (SRT-DH520). I have purchased a new SB Audigy 5/Rx [CFC0] and when I install from your pack everything looks great until I toggle the "Enable Dolby Digital Live". Then I get no sound output at all. And when I try to test the signal through the audio settigs it says "The device is being used by another application. Please close any devices that are playing audio to this device". I cant think of any other device running. When I untick the Enable Dolby Digital Live I can get stereo sound again. The DDL is authenticated. The cable is working. The amp is fine. I neeeeed help....
Unfortunately I don't have a sample card to test personally and don't know anyone with an Audigy 5/RX.
Anyway, I have a suggestion.
Run EndPtUtl.exe found in the Audio Console installation folder.
If the issue still persists, try to use the Digital Output (Coaxial/Optical) of another device, provided that you have any on your computer.
EndPtUtl.exe enables the use of any device for outputting encoded audio.

Connecting Gigaworks T20 to TV

Hi,
I'm using a 3.5mm Stereo Plug to 2 Phono Leads cable to connected a pair of t20 speakers to my new Panasonic TV via the headphone socket as recommended by their tech support. The problem is that I'm only getting sound out of one speaker - I've tried this on a second TV and it's the same. Is this a problem with the cable, the speakers or is it just not possible to get stereo sound from T20's hooked up this way?

Anyone?

X1 Carbon (20AX series) wifi connectivity issues

Dear Lenovo Support and all others,
I am posting this in hope that someone can help with my problem and also to share my unpleasant experience with a new Lenovo product.
Lenovo Thinkpad X1 Carbon
Model: 20A8A00VSG
OS: Windows 7 Pro 64bit
Purchase date: 27th February 2014
Since the first day I purchased the system, I have been having an issue with my wireless connection:
1. I am unable to reliably get a wireless connection to wireless access points (e.g. free wifi coffee outlets or malls) and personal mobile hotspots (mobile phone hotspots). It constantly says "LIMITED CONNECTIVITY". In other words, I cannot get internet access. Even when it does connect to the network and get internet access, there is a tendency for the connection to drop back to "LIMITED CONNECTIVITY".
The only time I can get a reliable connection is when I am connected to my home wireless router. The system does not seem to have problems on home wifi networks. Since the problem seems limited to wireless access points and hotspots, I believe its a hardware/software problem.
Please note that I have other wireless devices (laptops and mobile phones) that can connect to the same networks that I am trying to connect to and have no issues.
I have tested the networks with my friends' wireless devices as well and they have no issues accessing the internet so I am fairly certain that there is no issue with the networks themselves.
2. I have already called in twice and been given advice on both occasions but the problem still persist. I have updated all drivers, uninstalled and reinstalled and updated the BIOS for the system and also performed a system recovery but nothing has worked so far.
I have also tried disabling and/or deleting any anti-virus software and firewalls but it does not fix the problem.
I have also been advised that I need to go down to the Lenovo service center to have my laptop checked out by the technicians and that there MIGHT be a firmware upgrade for the wireless card itself.
NOTE: MIGHT? The support staff doesn't even know for sure whether there is an upgrade available.
3. Rebooting my computer, the wireless card or the hotspots does not solve the problem. It might work for a shortwhile before it reverts back to it's non working state or stops working again once I reboot the system.
I am really unhappy with the purchase so far. It's actually a good laptop per se when all is working, but without internet access, it is pretty much like a dead fish. And thats 90% of the time.
Like I said, this problem has been happening since day one and I've tolerated it long enough.
I hope someone can help me with this problem.
Thanks all.
UPDATE - 3/24/2014
I borrowed an ASUS Wireless USB adapter from a friend and installed it on the laptop. Lo and behold there are no connectivity issues to my iPhone wireless hotspot.
INTEL DUAL BAND WIRELESS AC 7260 - NO CONNECTION/LIMITED ACCESS
ASUS USB N10 WIRELESS ADAPTOR - CONNECTIVITY AND INTERNET ACCESS
I think this narrows it down to the software/hardware in the computer....

Hi, all
there is an issue bugged driver or even card firmware related. Intel confirmed that. Wait some time for the new release.
For the test purpose only disable 2,4 ghz band support and switch to 5 ghz. N-band seems unstable so switch to G-band. As the Linux users report the same issue it's firmware bug basically.
x220 | i5-2520m | Intel ssd 320 series | Gobi 2000 3G GPS | WiFi
x220 | i5-2520m | hdd 320 | Intel msata ssd 310 series | 3G GPS | WiFi
Do it well, worse becomes itself
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B-Series Network Connections

I know that there are advantages to using the vNIC capabilities of the VIC M81KR along with the 2100 IO Module up to the 6100 series Fiber Interconnect.
But If the customer was not convinced of the management advantages of the 6100 and the UCS Manager and did not like the idea of having to pay a license fee to turn on the 10Gig ports on the 6100, which essentially doubles the price or more of the 6100, Could we instead do it the old fashion way and put a 10Gig adaptor in each blade and then wire them into a 5548?
I know that it is ugly, but what will they loose doing this?
Thanks.

Richard,
Just to add to what Louis mentioned - Though the blades have individual mezz cards, there are no Chassis switches you'd be able to uplink into your 5500's nor the software to manage the IO modules. The Chassis IO modules are specifically built to work with the fabric interconnects.
With each FI purchased you get the first 8 ports included. The sweet spot for most deployments usually involves 2 uplinks per chassis, this will give provide enough included ports for 3 chassis' (24 blades) with two left for uplinks. Pricing the FI's per port beyond the included 8 help offset the overall cost of the system during initial purchase. We actually take a loss overall until roughly around the 1/2 way mark of ports purchased are reached. Compared to competators, when a new Chassis is purchased you'd also need to purchase a pair of Management modules (iLO/DRAC/RAS), two or more SAN switch modules and two or more ethernet modules. This makes scaling additional compute power extremely expensive. With a new UCS Chassis all you need are two very inexpensive IO modules, which provide everything you need to connect your chassis into your already wired infrastructure (Fabric Interconnects). Yes, you'll need to ensure you have enough licensed ports on the FIs to meet your chassis & uplink requirements, but you're still looking at far less scaling investments in the long run.
The management benefits are one of the key value adds UCS offers over it's competators. I'd be a little concerned why your customer does not see the value added in a single management platform for such a wide scope of devices. Also being able to maintain policies for firmware version, QoS levels, consistent network configurations, BIOS, Boot, etc ensure consistency & security across your compute environment. Having a firm understanding in the management advantages requires understanding UCS differentiators.
There's a reason why many vendor are now following Cisco's lead in a "unified" approach to datacenter infrastructure. It's more efficient, easier to manage and scales well beyond traditional designs.
Regards,
Robert

GigaWorks T20 Series II connection to a TV?

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