Glass is curved outward on MBP 13" display

I have had my MBP for about 2 months now, and I probably should have looked it over more carefully when I purchased it. Along the top edge of the display, near the right corner (about 1 inch in from the top right corner) the glass curves outward slightly so that it is almost flush with the rubber edge or lip. All around the edge of the rest of the display the glass is set in what looks to be about a 2mm depression. Is this a defect to be concerned about? My computer is still under warranty so I would like this taken care of if possible.

mirapple6611,
The GPU problems with the 2011 models only show up in the 15" and 17" models, so you've not the same problem that some of us have had.
A new screen and a logic board replacement would be pretty expensive, I'm guessing? I've no idea why they would suggest a logic board replacement if your machine displays fine on other screens. A logic board replacement just doesn't make sense if that's the case.
If I were you, I'd get a 'second opinion' from another AASP. Won't hurt and may save you some money in the end.
Clinton

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joshcali wrote:
actually.... it doesn't.
the 1920 is simulated, and apple doesn't recommend it.
Apple doesn't offer the option of full resolution (2880x1800) and says everything other than 1440 x 900 won't look as good as 1440x900.
so while you can set the monitor to 17" resolution (1920x1080) it has to simulate it on a 2880x900 screen and has to blur and reinterpolate elements to make it work
they've really messed it up for anyone wanting true HD resolution for professional reasons.
Indeed. Everything except 2880x1800, which is unavailable without SwitchResX, and 1440x900, which comfortably fits one pixel of the image into a four pixel square of the Retina Display, must be simulated or scaled. However, while the scaling is real, the 17" "simulation" looks as good, to my eye at least, as my wife's MBP 17". Going smaller will test one's eyes probably as much as Apple's scaling algorithms so the tradeoff for greater screen real-estate may turn out not to be as bad as we'd think. All I need is a MBP Retina Display and SwitchResX to find out...

MBP Matte display "hazy", vs. Powerbook display?

I'm having some wierdness with my new (and great!) MBP. It seems like the matte coating on the display is "too matte" or something like that. Solid colors aren't uniform, but seem "shimmery," as if there was a very thin oil slick (or fingerprint layer) over the screen. This is not the case with my old TiBook matte screen. The MBP display is unquestionably brighter, with richer colors - but with less color consistency. I would almost say that I prefer the TiBook display over the MacBooks, because it is sharper and more regular. The fogging effect on the macbook screen is strong enough to hide image details that are apparent on the older screen, such as slight color shifts and banding in gradients.
Has anyone else noticed an issue like this with their MBP matte display? Especially someone who has an older apple laptop screen to compare? I'm really hoping that this is a "bad screen" issue that I can get fixed, and not just the product of crappier (but brighter) screens in the MBP line. Note: i'm not talking about moving visual noise or flicker in the screen - it is perfectly stable, just a bit ugly :/
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transwave
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Excellent catch, Jayson Allyson1. The 18-bit thing is simple. Each "pixel" on your LCD screen is actually made up of 3 subpixels: red, green, and blue, very close together. In "millions of colors" mode, each of these subpixels should have 256 possible values, from 0 (off) to 255 (full bright). This is 8 bits per subpixel (2^8 = 256) also known as 24-bit color, for a total of 2^24 = 16,777,216 displayable colors.
Some cheaper/faster desktop LCD displays (and, apparently, notebook displays) are only capable of displaying 6 bits per subpixel, or 18-bit color, totalling 2^18 = 262,144 colors. I didn't know the MBP had one of these unfortunate displays, but apparently it's common.
Dithering is placing a lower number of colors in a certain pattern to trick your eye into seeing a higher number of colors. This is done by the video card automatically. So, -if- this theory is correct, the speckled pattern is coming from normal dithering.
Now apparently the x1600 is supposed to do "temporal dithering" which involves altering the color of -the same pixel-, quickly enough to mitigate the pattern effect you're going to get from dithering. From what I can tell from the message board threads, this is stuck in freeze-frame (or the dithering is just really bad) due to a video BIOS bug.
The problem is, who knows if this is the actual issue, and if it is, it was apparently fixed a while ago, so why would they ship like this? Also, it means everyone should be seeing this issue, unless some people got 24-bit displays (unlikely).
Regardless, this gives some cause for hope. Thanks!

My MBP A1226 display went black n no video output. I tried to reset pram n a hard reset still nothing. It boots up drive and volume beeps... It's running but no video. I'm out of warranty, is there something I can do without spending a fortune. Thnx rich

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Hi, I have the same computer, same model and same problem with the same diagnosis, with no response from Apple for being out of warranty of 4 years, this is a shame!

Screen real-estate on the 15" MBP Retina display

The 15" MacBook Pro Retina Display has a remarkable 2880x1800 pixel resolution, compared to the 27" LED display's 2560x1440. Normally, screen real-estate is defined as how much stuff (windows, menu bar items, bookmark lists, etc) you can fit on the screen, with a larger (that is, more pixels) screen being able to show more stuff using its native resolution.
With the MBP's Retina display, the pixels are so small that using its native resolution in the same way as with the 27" monitor should result in, say, really small menu bar items, etc. As a result, the default monitor setting involves scaling, so that something which might normally take up one pixel might get four or eight devoted to it, making it larger and easier to see. Its monitor control panel allows changing that relationship so that everything could be made to appear even larger, resulting in less screen real-estate, or smaller, resulting in more screen real-estate; i.e., lots more stuff can fit on the screen.
My question is whether, at the smallest setting offered, the screen real-estate is the equivalent of, say, a 32" monitor which also has 2880x1800 pixel resolution but is spread over a much smaller physical area, or is the Retina's display still scaled to some smaller equivalent resolution because straight 1 to 1 would simply be too small to be practical? If that's the case, what does the effective resolution work out to be at the smallest setting?
I'm aware that's not a simple question because, for example, I understand that an HD Movie could be displayed pixel for pixel even if everything else outside that window is scaled. Moreover, the use of vector graphics complicates the matter further. But for things like menu lists and word processing documents, can the MBP's Retina display be set to what we understand to be 1 to 1?

joshcali wrote:
actually.... it doesn't.
the 1920 is simulated, and apple doesn't recommend it.
Apple doesn't offer the option of full resolution (2880x1800) and says everything other than 1440 x 900 won't look as good as 1440x900.
so while you can set the monitor to 17" resolution (1920x1080) it has to simulate it on a 2880x900 screen and has to blur and reinterpolate elements to make it work
they've really messed it up for anyone wanting true HD resolution for professional reasons.
Indeed. Everything except 2880x1800, which is unavailable without SwitchResX, and 1440x900, which comfortably fits one pixel of the image into a four pixel square of the Retina Display, must be simulated or scaled. However, while the scaling is real, the 17" "simulation" looks as good, to my eye at least, as my wife's MBP 17". Going smaller will test one's eyes probably as much as Apple's scaling algorithms so the tradeoff for greater screen real-estate may turn out not to be as bad as we'd think. All I need is a MBP Retina Display and SwitchResX to find out...

I have a MBP retina display, early 2013, 512GB SSD storage& I want to upgrade it into a 768GB SSD storage, would that be possible WITHOUT replacing my current storage disks with the new 768GB ?keeping the 512GB&only adding a 256 GB disk?! please advise (:

I have a MBP retina display, early 2013, 512GB SSD storage& I want to upgrade it into a 768GB SSD storage, would that be possible WITHOUT replacing my current storage disks with the new 768GB ?keeping the 512GB&only adding a 256 GB disk?! please advise (:

The main error in this position is thinking ANY sized SSD can be "storage"
Any Macbook SSD should be idealized as a working platform computer system, containing all your applications, documents, and weekly-use necessary files; and all media files such as ‘big-data’ (music/PDF collections/video/pictures), unless directly needed in the near future, should be kept off the computer and on external storage USB or likewise bare hard drives.
You cant do what you want without removing the internal SSD
Officially, it is not possible for an end user to upgrade the storage in any Retina Display MacBook Pro model after purchase
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Alright no worries, I felt it was worth while looking at, although the unit is 4 days old in your hands, the software was likely installed longer than that, at the distribution centre.
The next step we would likely do, is remove the com.apple.desktop.plist file to the desktop itself, this will encourage the operating system when restarted (or logged out) to regenerate a new file in its place.
Although this is such an evasive step, and should cause no problems, since it is a user specific file, I do feel the need to tell you to backup any data first, and make sure you have everything covered before proceeding.
I would expect nothing to go wrong in this process, honestly , but whenever a solution comes down to replacing files the operating system has in place, its worth covering. If you are satisfied you have everything backed up, and wish to proceed, the next steps are as follows:
1) Open up a finder window, you can do this by clicking the square face symbol on your dock (half dark blue, half light blue). You should have a finder menu bar running across the top of your screen, and 'Go' should be listed.
2) Select 'Go' and this will drop down a list of places your system can go to. Hold down the Option (alt) key on your keyboard and this will show the hidden 'library' in your drop down list. Select library.
3) The finder window will now show the contents of your user library. Find a folder called preferences in that folder and go into it.
4) You will now see many com.apple.xxxx.plist files. Find a file or files beginning in com.apple.desktop (com.apple.desktop.plist is the common one, but sometimes there is com.apple.desktop lockfiles also) and drag them to the desktop itself, make sure the files are actually moved to the desktop and not just copied.
5) Once the files are moved to the desktop, and no longer exist in your preferences folder, restart the computer, and try again. The computer at this point would have generated replacement files.

Having problems with my new usb superdrive in my MBP retina display.

I just bought an apple usb superdrive for my new MBP retina display. I connected the usb superdrive to the MBP and I was going to install a program but doesn't appear in the desktop or neither in finder. The disk is still inside the usb superdrive! The MBP doesn't recognize the usb superdrive. What do I do now? The disk is still inside!

With the system turned on Disconnect the superdrive and then reconnect it. If that fails try the other USB port, the one on the other side.
If That Fails take the system and the superdrive to the Apple store you bought them from and have them fix whatever is wrong with either the drive or the system or both.

New MBP mini Display Port out to TV (HDMI) not working

Sorry, I just realized I put this in the Original Folder not the Late 2008 folder.
I bought a new MBP 2.4 GHz, 4 GBs RAM machine in January of this year, 2009. Model Identifier 5,1. I wanted to connect it to my TV's HDMI port. Only interested in getting video to TV since I run sound through a sound system. I have been using my MacBook Air's DVI adapter to a DVi - HDMI cable. I have a Sony Bravia 40 HD tv. Video works just fine from my MBAir, can change resolutions to anything and video works perfectly (audio has a little problem though - high frequency hum out of the MBAir's audio port). That's why I want to change to my MB Pro - audio from the New MBP is good.
With my new MBP, using it's Mini out- DVi connector and using the Same Video (HDMI) cable that I used with my MBAir - it doesn't work. The Display Preference does not detect the TV ever. I just get a black screen on the TV. Not even a flash on the TV like it's trying to connect - nothing.
I can pull the cable out of my MBP 2.4 and swap the DVi connector to the MBAir's cable and put it in the MBAir and it works just fine. Swap it back to the new MBP and nothing.
I have tried two different MBP Mini DVI out connectors, thinking one was bad. I even took the connector I use with the MBAir with me to the Apple Store to have them match the connectors, so I would be assured that I got the correct one. Oh by the way, my MBAir is the original one, not the newest one.
I have read a lot of links on the website where people are having trouble with Monitors using the new MBP Mini DVI video out but could not find any thread that matched my TV problem.
Any suggestions or explanations would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim
Message was edited by: Jim Humphrey
Message was edited by: Jim Humphrey

Hi Jim,
Just to clarify, you state that you have a MacBookPro5,1, which is the late 2008 model. The video output on that model is a mini-DisplayPort, not a mini-DVI (like the pre-unibody MacBooks) or a micro-DVI (like your 1st gen MBA). DisplayPort is a different type of port. (Note - I requested an edit of the title of your post to clarify that).
When you connect the TV, in what sequence are you connecting? The 'proper' sequence is to connect the DVI-HDMI cable to the mini-DisplayPort to DVI adapter, have the HDMI end connected to the TV, have the TV set to Line-In, looking for a signal, then connect to the MBP last.
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MBP - Mini Display Port VGA?

Hi,
So I'm trying to connect my Mid-2012 13" MBP to my TV via a Mini Display Port to VGA adaptor. The problem is it won't work ^_^
My TV simply says 'No PC input', but my Mac detects the display. I have tried booting in Safe Mode, as I found suggsted in a seperate thread, but to no avail. I am running 10.8.2
If anyone could shed some light it would be great.
Thanks,
Ryan

Does the mac detect the display, or does it detect an analog output? In my experience, the VGA adapter will get recognized no matter if a display is plugged in or not.
-check the VGA cable to be sure there aren't any bent/mashed pins
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Color is off on my MBP 17" display - cool/purple bias won't go away

I'm disappointed in the color setup of my new MBP 17" Unibody display, compared with the original (2006) MBP 17" that it's replacing. That old machine looked great right out of the box, but on the new one colors tend towards the cool, with a purple tinge in the highlights. Fleshtones look completely wrong, and the contrast is milky, with lifted blacks.
I've gone through the calibration process several times, and while I've improved the contrast, the cool/purple bias will not go away. I bring up the same photo on my old machine and my new machine, and the old one has natural skin tones and rich contrast, and the new one has purple highlights and off skin tones.
I've been told that perhaps one explanation is the fact that the new machines use LED backlights?
Unless I can get this monitor set up properly it's going to be pretty useless to me. Would a hardware calibration tool such as the Spyder help me get the display profile where I need it to be, or is there something inherent in the display hardware that gives it this odd color palette?

The Genius Bar's a suspect place to get possibly complicated CMS/ICC profiling calibration device-level guidance, let alone investigating Apple's apparent driver/default settings to their various and sundry display! You're a brave man! (oops! Forgot I was on the <Apple> Forums- yikes!)...
Seriously, I wouldn't expect any typical Apple Genius Bar denizen to know the ins and outs of what many pre-press folks Graphic Designers, and publishing pros only know of, not know well.
I learned a long time ago, because I was charged with designing, building, testing, and deploying a magazine publishing company-wide CMS, and I didn't want to go hungry, so I learned <fast> ;^)
The first step that I do to eliminate the color cast that does indeed 'color' (sic) almost all stock Apple displays and replace it with a pleasing, more reality-based, warmer overall but with 'clean' color ramps and solids, as well as an accurate white point and proper color and tonal balance. There's the 'free' OS X software-based method, and there's the X-Rite ColorMunki, Pantone Huey, Spyder 3 Elite, or Gretag Macbeth Eye-One Display or Photo... the 'free' OS X method's probably familiar to you- Sys Prefs>Displays>Color>Calibrate>Expert Mode. Perform this simple & brief procedure in a room or surrounding free of harsh, specular lighting, like strong fluorescent lights, or strong sunlight, etc.. Then just follow the directions on each panel in the sequential series of Dialog Boxes, and use the more traditional Mac 1.8 Gamma setting generally and a 6500k White Point; mainly because those two are the 'Old Skool' (well, actually, 5200-5500k White Point's more common setting from Back in the Day, but 6500k is an adequately LONG way from the cold, 'glacial-effect' harshness of any higher WP), and the 1.8+6500k combo strikes an pretty good balance between ultimate accuracy and pleasing warmth. DO NOT check the 'Use Native White Point' box, save the ColorSync display Profile you've just helped yer Mac create for ALL Users' usage, and make certain, before you exit Displays, that you hike on over to the other side of the button, 'Display', and make certain that you've unchecked the 'Automatically Adjust Brightness...' box... NOW exit Sys Prefs, and behold your Band-Aid First Step at getting away from the cold and slanted world of Apple Default Display Profiles. You'll need WAY more accuracy of a good hardware calibration unit if you want to get closer, much closer to Display Nirvana... which brings us to the Next Step. If you've got an LED backlit LCD screen, you'll only need to borrow a unit from someone, or have it done, far less frequently than in days past, because you don't have to concern yourself with the color/brightness/White Point/Gamma/contrast 'drift' of fluorescent-backlit screens, which dim and drift as they age, or the 'phospher aging' of a CRT screen, LED backlit screens need no 'warmuo time', and stay much more consistent throughout their lifespan. Still, you need to somehow get ahold of preferably a Gretag-Macbeth Eye-One Display 2 or the more expensive but more versatile for creating custom ICC/Colorsync Profiles for all your input, output, and display devices, but is about 6 times more expensive than the really good Eye-One Display 2 display calibrator, OR one of the more recent Spyder units, or even an X-Rite ColorMunki (the 'Photo' model, for most users here). I like to avoid the ColrMunki because, amongst other things, it's WAY hard to do what the instructions say you need to in order to produce an accurate profile, and its design gives you way too many opportunities to damage your display. The Huey's a little too basic and less accurate overall than the others, but is still WAY better than our Sys Prefs profile, of which the only reason to perform is to stave off insanity.
Read the manual/PDF, try it slowly and carefully, especially the ColorMunki, which I like less than the others for the aforementioned reasons... experiment with creating two different hardware display profiles with ANY of these calibrators- one with the traditional Mac 1.8 Gamma, and one with the more au courant 2.0 Gamma setting, both with the 6500k White Point, and see which one you prefer for your own use and your own tastes. Even though most calibration unit manuals will order you to stick with the 2.0 Gamma setting, there are many instances where the 1.8 is superior in actual CMS use. Where those instances are is a whole other post; stay focussed on doing the above, and you'll never regret the time, money and energy you put into it- it's a GREAT investment, and one that will go most, if not all of the way you want to go in terms of fixing your Apple Caste' default display conundrum... good luck! =^D
Best,
Charlie

Glass is curved outward on MBP 13" display

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