Going to install a PC with Arch in my car!

In my Miata, the center console has a single hole that usually holds a standard-sized radio and a junk holder.  When you take them both out, walla, the perfect size and place for a touchscreen!  So I'm going to put a display right on my console and install a computer in my trunk.  So here's how it's gonna go.
I'm buying speakers right now, a pair of Infinity 6020cs's.  I'm psyched because I didn't even know that sound quality could be this high with a brand name this reputable with a price this low!  AMAZING sound!  They come as a speaker/tweeder set with a crossover and I found it online for $70 (as compared to Best Buy's $191).  Anyway, speakers.  I'm also going to have a 12" Rockford Fosgate HE2 subwoofer in the trunk, housed by a box I'm going to build.  If I don't build a custom box that works around every corner I can, I won't be able to hold the things I would usually be able to fit in my trunk anymore, you know, like a box of pencils, a t-shirt, a pack of CD-Rs (but that's pushing it).  But not at the same time.  You know.  It's a Miata.
Sorry, I'm excited.  Point in saying this: I'm going to buy an M-Audio sound card for crisp audio and I want to use software EQs for everything.  Actually, if I can, I would love to skip the crossover the 6020cs's come with altogether, and since there are only two door speakers in a Miata, run the tweeders off the third and fourth channels of an amp.  This way, I can EQ out the lows to my sub, EQ the mids to my 6 1/2"s, and EQ the extreme highs to my tweeders.  So it would be a five-channel system, cause the sub would be mono.  Is there a way I can tune my sound like this directly with ALSA?  I would really like all my sound to be tuned the way I want it to without relying on a single piece of software, for example, the VLC equalizer.  I want to hear my audio EQed out the same all the time regardless of using VLC or if I popped open firefox and watched a YouTube video.  How can I do this?
My plan for power management would go like this.  Okay, so I start my car.  My computer comes out of hibernate and resumes any audio or what not that was going on.  Then I park it and get out.  My computer will still be running for about 10 minutes with the music automatically paused.  After 10 minutes, it'll go inter hibernate again, but if I hop in my car and start it, it'll resume the audio's playback.  The audio equipment will be turned off via the +12V accessory wire from my ignition, so only my computer will be running at this point.  Hell, I could even have the display turn off too.  But this brings me to a question.  Is there some software I could use that would run commands based of inputs from a serial port or something?  For example, the accessory lead drops the +12V signal, now I want it to wait 10 minutes.  I could run the +12V into a relay that trips pins on a serial port and x software could run a script that waits for ten minutes, and when the relay is activated again, a script executes that kills that script.  Or maybe even the other way around where the software would trip relays through the serial port, you know, to turn the sub on and off or something of that nature.  Does something like this exist?
My idea for HID is to utilize bluetooth.  I want to keep a portable keyboard (and mouse too, sometimes a touchscreen doesn't do what you want) in my glove box.  I don't want to use any console space for a keyboard.  Although, it would be very nice to have an on-screen keyboard when I need to do something quickly.  As for volume, track skip, etc, I'm going to use a touchscreen with buttons on the frame that'll respond to doing things like a stereo would.  I really don't want to have to fidget with software while I'm driving.  The screen will probably be very similar to this one.  I'm still deciding on brands.  Have any of you guys put a display in your car and have one to recommend?  I'm worried about buying a display without actually seeing it.  I don't want something that won't go dimmer than blindingly bright or something where the color looks like junk.  I'll look more on mp3car.com for this too.
I'm going to be able to stay online with my car too.  I plan on tethering my computer to my cell phone - it has 3G and the data moves pretty quick.  At home, I want to set up a file server that I can stream my music archive from (and download from when I know I'm going out-of-range).  I'll also have a wifi card in my car so when I park it in my driveway, I can get on my computer and administrate the PC.  I'm also fooling around with the idea of the computer acting as a remote-start and a security system, but that's for later.
So blah blah blah ... is there any good music player software that would work good in a car like this?  What would you recommend for a GPS solution?
Ongoing project cost (as of December 15, 2008):
$85 - Intel D945GCLF2
$13 - Kingston KVR667D2N5/512 (512MB DDR2 RAM)
Total: $98
Last edited by synthead (2008-12-15 10:10:30)

rson451 wrote:You should list prices as you go along so we can see how much damage you're doing to yourself
Good idea!  I'll start a list on my first post.
mrunion wrote:
Your Miata already has one battery in the trunk -- and it's vented to the outside. Another back there would be no problem. Just buy another of the same kind and use a 'T' type connector to merge the vent tubes. Secure the thing down good. As for the "PC", some people remove the carpet from the deck behind the seats and under there there is a little "well" area.  They stick the thing in there.  Try hitting miata.net and searching the forum and you may find the post about the guy who did it.  Might save you some effort and R&D.
Yes, I have a Miata as well....My "toy" is a 2002 SE Blazing Yellow.  Only a 1000 of these things driving around!
You have a yellow one   That's killer, those are really rare!  Is it in good shape?  I love Miatas, they're so much fun and stupid cheap to own
The battery in my car is strapped to the chassis with a rope.  I don't have the factory battery mount.  I was going to weld one together soon though, but now that you mention vents, I'm curious.  How exactly is it fitted?  Time to Google ...
jerryluc wrote:
When I read about this project yesterday I remembered having read about a guy doing the same.
I found the story, but it's in Norwegian so it's probably not so interesting for most of you. Anyways:
http://linux1.no/blogg/noja/3532/linux-i-bilen
The guy has put Arch in his car as a music server, touch screen and all...
If someone(Synthead specially) is really interested i could try to translate it, but I'm not that good in English -
Maybe someone who speak Norwegian and speak English a little better then me can do it?
Niiiice, and he used MythTV!  That's brilliant!  I installed it on my car PC in progress and I'm working on it   Awesome, thank you!
Ranguvar wrote:
The Atom 330 is a dual-core with HT, sorry!
Really sweet project, though. Good luck!
As for SSDs, the crazy-pricey Intel ones may be worth waiting a little for... 80GB+ with _real_ 250Mb/s speeds! They smoke everything else. Do a lot of research here though, because some SSDs are really wretched. Also remember that SDHCs are extremely cheap and offer tons of storage, so a small and fast main SSD may be a good choice.
I kneeeeew there was a catch.  That's okay, I'll still have a dual 1.6 Ghz CD player   And regarding combining storage types, that is an excellent idea.  I'm definitely going that route.  I would love to use an SD card or a CF card as storage and a smaller SSD for the OS.   That's perfect.  Thank you!
Some good success so far ... just building up the OS at home until I can find a good screen, solid state disk, and power supply to use   I started a thread about xorg locking up and it turns out it was because of the new hald integration.  I LOVE the idea of combining hald and xorg!  But anyway, my GUI is up and running and it's setup the way I like as a desktop.  When I migrate the carputer into my car, I'll tweak things around so it'll be practical to use with a touchscreen.
Right now, I'm connected to the internet using Tetherbot with my Google Android phone and it works great.  So that takes care of the internet.  I have a bluetooth receiver and a GPS system that acts as a dongle when attached (will replace with a standalone GPS module later).  I'm tinkering with these.
Later on, I'm going to go to Goodwill, grab a multimedia keyboard, and gut it.  There's a removable ashtray next to the stickshift in my car, so I'm going to use this area to install a touchpad and the hacked up keyboard controls for the PC.  I will go to TAP Plastics and have them fabricate something nice that'll drop right in.  I'm going to source out buttons that look like arrows and the like to have designated buttons for skip, play, pause, stop, etc.  I'm also going to try to find a keyboard with one of those rotary volume controls and use it.  Nothing like a little xbindkeys   I would really like this to look fancy.  Not blue LEDs/carbon fiber/chrome fancy, more like "that guy did a good job" fancy.  Although if I could have the buttons lit when the car's parking lights are on, that would be killer.
So at this point, I need to buy these things for only the car PC to work in my car the way I want:
* DC-DC PSU
* 8" Transreflective screen that operates (or can operate) on 12VDC that can go very dim and very bright
* Resistive touchscreen overlay, preferably USB (for when wearing gloves, it's a convertible)
* Solid state disk, doesn't have to be too big or too fast
* Bluetooth keyboard
* USB touchpad
* Goodwill keyboards, fancy switches, TAP fabrication
I'm probably looking at 300-500 more dollars on this end.  Throw another ... $300 in for the two-way speakers I want + an amp.  My sub and sub amp I have, but I need to build a cabinet.  Also, for an M-Audio sound card, I'll probably put aside another $100.  And yes, they make an astounding difference in sound quality.  I use an M-Audio 1010LT in my home studio with some audiophile headphones and the difference is very obvious
I'll try to take some pics of my car and where I'm going to put things soon.
Last edited by synthead (2008-12-12 07:48:58)

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    Please help me how to install mac drivers for windows7 64 bit???

    You either download drivers from within Boot Camp Assistant and save to USB FAT disk, or you insert and use 10.6.x OS X DVD when in Windows and install and run the SETUP from there.
    General Help:
    Boot Camp 4.0, OS X Lion: Frequently asked question
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4818
    http://manuals.info.apple.com/en_US/boot_camp_install-setup_10.7.pdf
    create a Windows support software (drivers) CD or USB storage media
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4407
    Installation Guide   Instructions for all features and settings.
    Boot Camp 4.0 FAQ   Get answers to commonly asked Boot Camp questions.
    Windows 7 FAQ   Answers to commonly asked Windows 7 questions.
    - support articles and tips, how to.
    http://www.apple.com/support/bootcamp/
    Macs that work with 64-bit editions of Microsoft Windows Vista and Windows 7
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1846
    Step 4: Install the Boot Camp Drivers for Windows
    After installing Windows, install Mac-specific drivers and other software for Windows using your Mac OS X installation disc.  The Mac OS X disc installs drivers to support Mac components, including AirPort,built-in iSight camera, the Apple Remote, the trackpad on a portable Mac, and thefunction keys on an Apple keyboard. 
    The Mac OS X disc also installs the Boot Camp control panel for Windows and theApple Boot Camp system tray item.
    To install the Boot Camp drivers:
    1 Eject the Windows installation disc.
    2 Insert the Mac OS X disc.  If the installer doesn’t start automatically, browse the disc using Windows Explorerand double-click the setup.exe file in the Boot Camp directory.
    3 Follow the onscreen instructions.
    If a message appears that says the software you’re installing has not passed Windows  Logo testing, click Continue Anyway.
    Windows that appear only briefly during the installation don’t require your input.
    If nothing appears to be happening, there may be a hidden window that you mustrespond to. Check the taskbar and look behind open windows.
    Important: Do not click the Cancel button in any of the installer dialogs.
    4 After your computer restarts, follow the instructions in the Found New Hardware  Wizard to update your software drivers (Windows XP only).
    5 Follow the instructions for any other wizards that appear.
    6 Check for updated Boot Camp drivers by using Apple Software Update or going to www.apple.com/support/bootcamp.
      If You Have Problems Installing the Device Drivers 
    If it appears that the Boot Camp drivers weren’t successfully installed, try repairing them.
    To repair Boot Camp drivers:
    1 Start up your computer in Windows.
    2 Insert your Mac OS X installation disc.
    3 If the installer doesn’t start automatically, browse the disc using Windows Explorerand double-click the setup.exe file in the Boot Camp directory.
    4 Click Repair and follow the onscreen instructions.
    If a message appears that says the software you’re installing has not passed Windows  Logo testing, click Continue Anyway. 
    If you need to reinstall specific drivers, you can install one driver at a time. For example,if your built-in iSight camera isn’t working, you can reinstall just the iSight driver.
    Individual drivers are in the Drivers folder on the Mac OS X installation disc.

  • Cannot install Windows 7 with bootcamp

    Ok, I am getting really frustrated at this point with bootcamp. I have previously installed win7 on this same computer I'm working with, I reformatted the drive and uninstalled windows with bootcamp, the reason I did this was because I needed more space on my windows drive. I have followed all of bootcamp's directions and I keep getting stuck on the same spot. After creating a win7 install usb stick (with the same oem copy of win7 I used last time), downloading the drivers, and getting thru the partioning steps, the computer reboots into windows install. I see "disk 0 partition 4: bootcamp" after clicking format (to get it to be formatted to ntfs) I click next, then I keep getting the following error. "Setup was unable to create a new system partition or locate an existing system partition. See the Setup log files for more information."
    I have tried installing with bootcamp a few different times, even with a different copy of windows 7 and keep getting stuck here. I have installed it just fine before, I dont know why this is happening now. I am on a 15" 2012 rMBP 500gb model

    Hi All-
    I know this post is dated slightly but I wanted to chime in with some Bootcamp help on the newer vintage MBP laptops. 
    Just to throw it out there - nearly every Mac I purchase gets hardware hacked the minute it comes out of the box.  RAM/SSD upgrades are usually the first on the agenda.  The SSD/drive upgrades can tend to muck-up the process of using Apple's standard BootCamp tools for loading Windows.
    Here is a very simple way to accomplish the same things that BootCamp does only the right way so Windows will be happy alongside OS X.
    1. Download your Windows ISO (stop making DVDs!) and make a USB bootable stick.  You can do this in a number of ways - on the OS X side use Disk Utility, on the Windows side use the Microsoft Store USB download/create tool.  Just make sure you have a -known- good working USB bootable Windows 7 install media (or Windows 8)
    2. Once you've done this you will want to get the WindowsSupport folder for your model of Mac, so launch BootCamp, un-check the top and bottom options so that only the Download Support Files option is selected, indicate that you would like to copy to an external drive.  Tell it to place the folder either on your Desktop or in your Library somewhere.  Let it do its thing and then copy those files onto your newly created USB Windows 7/8 install media.  Now you have the Windows installation media as well as the Apple BootCamp drivers for Windows all on one single USB.
    3. Partitioning - instead of using the flawed BootCamp software to do this, we'll use Disk Utility in OS X.  Launch Disk Utility and highlight your primary hard drive.  Click the 'Partition' button at the top.  Now click the '+' button to add a partition, name it WINDOWS or something so you can identify it easily later.  Use the slider to create the size of partition you would like for Windows - this will auto-resize your OS X partition.  On the right-hand side of the Disk Utility window use the drop-down to change partition type from Mac OS X Journaled to MS-FAT.  Once you have done all of that use the Apply button to let it do its thing and re-size/create partitions.  This takes about 3 minutes tops.
    4. Install Windows!  - Be sure your Windows 7/8 USB bootable install media is inserted in a USB slot on the system.  Once you have completed the re-partitioning action, simply shut down your machine, and restart it holding the Option (Alt) button.  The alt button will cause the system to eventually show you a choice of bootable disks.  The USB disk will be easily identified because it will have an orange colored icon with the USB symbol on it.  Click this to boot from the USB Windows 7/8 install media.
    5. Windows Installer - the Windows installer will launch after a period of time, use the 'Next' button and accept the license terms and you will be brought to a window to select the destination for the Windows install.  You should automatically see the WINDOWS (or whatever you named it) partition that was created during step 3.  Highlight this partition and the 'next' button should un-grey and become available, if it does, click it and the Windows installation will proceed.  If the 'next' button does not un-grey you will want to highlight the partition and select 'Format', once that completes it will un-grey the 'next' button and the install will proceed.
    6. Once the installation is done it will need to reboot a few times (normal Windows install procedure at this point).  You will need to hold down the 'alt' key during each reboot and now select the 'WINDOWS' hard disk partition (not the USB one) from the boot menu to continue going through the motions of Windows installation.
    7. BootCamp Driver Install - once you have finished all of the reboots and motions of Windows installation you will want to boot into Windows, and once at the desktop make sure your USB install media that was used previously is inserted into the system.  Go to My Computer, find the USB drive, open it, and navigate to the WindowsSupport folder that was saved during step 2.  There will be an application called Setup , double-click this and choose 'Allow' during any security warnings.  Click 'next' once the installer loads and it will automatically install every Mac device driver needed on the Windows side.
    7 steps and approximately 45-minutes later you should be sitting with a fresh installation of Windows on a bootcamped partition. 
    Hope this helps somebody out - it took me quite some time and research to figure out the "cleanest" method for bypassing the flakey BootCamp application for installing Windows.   

  • I was going to install Rosetta Stone Spanish onto my Macbook but am concerned about it taking up space on my 2GB hard-drive.  I have an external WD hard-drive; is it possible to put the application onto the external hard-drive to save space on my mac?

    I was going to install Rosetta Stone Spanish onto my Macbook 10.6.7 but am concerned about it taking up space on my 2GB hard-drive.  I have an external WD hard-drive, and I was wondering if it is possible to put the application onto the external hard-drive to save space on my Mac? 

    I think you're confused about how much hard drive space you have.  You probably have 2 GB of RAM...  there hasn't been a Mac shipped with only a 2 GB hard drive in a while.  At the bottom of any Finder window, how much space is available?
    If you're actually running low on space, you should move documents to the external drive, since many applications want to be on the system drive.

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