Gradients and UIResource

Can we put Gradient In UIResource (example: component background) when customizing L&F of Swing components or we're just limited on ColorUIResource for (r,g,b) colors?

I have decided not to implement UIResource interface, i will just instead continue using gradient under my paint() method of the component which i customize, it's much easier in that way to set the dimensions for the gradient from the dimensions of the component and besides that, class LinearGradient Paint is final.
Thx on the fast answers.

Similar Messages

  • Print quality for light gray gradients and shadows

    Hello all,
    I am putting together a single page flyer which will have light gradients and shadows on the objects.
    Think Apple-ish light grays and shadows...
    I would like to get an opinion here from someone in the know as I am much more of digital guy than print.
    1) What is the lightest gray I can work with that would print well?
        When setting up the CMYK color should I simply set it at say 10% 10% 10% 10% or is there some better mixture for light gray gradients. i.e. slightly blue for example, or rich black mixture.
    2) When creating the gradients in illustrator, should I go from the gray to transparent or is it better to set up a gray to white gradient?
    Finally,
    When creating my supporting images with the shadows and gradients, would it be best just to create them in Photoshop and place them in my illustrator document and leave Illustrator for the text alone?
    Thanks in advance, I really appreciate your help

    Let's assume you are working in Illustrator.  Here's my advice:
    Hello all,
    I am putting together a single page flyer which will have light gradients and shadows on the objects.
    Think Apple-ish light grays and shadows...
    "I would like to get an opinion here from someone in the know as I am much more of digital guy than print.
    1) What is the lightest gray I can work with that would print well?
        When setting up the CMYK color should I simply set it at say 10% 10% 10% 10% or is there some better mixture for light gray gradients. i.e. slightly blue for example, or rich black mixture.
    - It should not be necessary to use 10% across the board.  It comes down to how you want the shadows and gradients to appear.  You ask what is the "lightest" Gray.  That depends on the press and paper.  Let's also assume you are planning for high end offset on a high end glossy "White" stock ( paper ).  A 10% Black is fairly reasonable, but you could plan for 5%K ( again, depends on press and paper ).  A nice warm Gray could be achieved with 7.5%C, 7.5%M, 7.5%Y, 0%K; a nice cool Gray could be achieved via 2.5%C, 0%M, 0%Y, 7.5%K. I would cross check a Pantone Process Color Guide for a reasonable choice.  Do not rely on the monitor.
    2) When creating the gradients in illustrator, should I go from the gray to transparent or is it better to set up a gray to white gradient?
    - It should not be necessary to set your gradient to transparent.  A typical scenario would be K > 0W; only specific requirements demand transparency.
    Finally,
    When creating my supporting images with the shadows and gradients, would it be best just to create them in Photoshop and place them in my illustrator document and leave Illustrator for the text alone?
    - That depends on the file, the background, and a few other considerations.  The key to shadows and gradients in Illustrator is they be applied as part of the final step in the file prep process.  If you create the shadows, for instance, in Photoshop, the end file size may end up larger than you anticipated.  And, the shadow would be resolution dependent ( less flexibility ).
    Thanks in advance, I really appreciate your help"
    Before you get started with your file, contact the print vendor to find out what type of press and what type of paper they plan to use on your job ( of you haven't already ).  Don't forget to set your document resolution in Illustrator ( assumed ) and the Raster Effects resolution.  Another important thing to remember is nail down the actual Gray ( i.e., lookup in Pantone Process Color Guide printed on the paper type you plan to use on press ).

  • How to find out the PATTERN, GRADIENT and BRUSHED objects?

    How to find out the PATTERN, GRADIENT and BRUSHED objects information in illustrator active document file. And also how to find the CMYK and RGB color information in illustrator file through javascript. Could you please provide any examples.

    I tried using the below code. But for both "cmyk" and "grayscale" pattern it gives only CMYK. Kindly check and advise.
    Code:
    var docRef = activeDocument;
    for(var i=docRef.inkList.length-1;i>=0;i--){
      var inkRef=docRef.inkList[i];
      var inkRefName=inkRef.name;
      alert(inkRefName);
      alert(inkRef.inkInfo.kind);
    Thanks for looking into this.

  • SVG to PDF/AI gradient and transparency issues

    This is probably quite off topic for these forums, so apologies for that up front, but I can't seem to get answers in more appropriate places.
    I am trying to use inkscape or rsvg-convert, which both use cairo, to convert SVG to PDF.
    Firstly, when I open the SVG in Illustrator directly, everything works as expected, but the cairo converted PDF has a couple of problems.
    Typically I get "An unknown  shading type was encountered" and the offending shapes are un-editable  "images" with a clipping mask over them.
    There are two  circumstances that result in problems for me.
    1) A gradient with  only 2 stops.
    In the following example I have duplicated the  offset="0" stop which fixes things and means that the resulting shape  that is filled with this gradient works fine. Without the duplicate  declaration, the gradient is converted to  an un-editable image with a  clipping mask when the PDF is viewed in Illustrator.
       <linearGradient id="ian_symbols_b8a58aafc1f12e74492e9e865b7f569b"  gradientUnits="userSpaceOnUse" x1="113.7275" y1="136.9414" x2="197.0259"  y2="136.9414">
        <stop offset="0" style="stop-color:#927A62"  id="stop1472" />
        <stop offset="0"  style="stop-color:#927A62" id="stop1472_dup" />
        <stop  offset="1" style="stop-color:#93866F" id="stop1474" />
       </linearGradient>
    2) A shape that has  an opacity that is less than "1". I don't know how to fix this one and  still maintain the look of the original. I understand that there are  some issues with transparency and the PDF format, but obviously the full  AI version of the PDF format these days supports transparency.
    Does anyone have any experience doing server-side conversions of SVG to PDF and have managed to create a PDF which contains gradients and transparency that are actually editable once opened in Illustrator?
    Or does anyone know if there is something more I  can do with the original SVG code to make the opacity work ok in the  final PDF?
    Thanks

    Works fine for me as .ai with pdf comptible turned on. You may have input transparency in the wrong location in Illustrator. Change opacity in the gradient palette, and not tint in the color palette.
    Opacity is 0 here, anything less tha 100% will create tranaprency. To proof in Illustratopr do a Shift Command D to change your background to a checkerboard pattern.

  • How do I stop banding in my gradients and vignetting?

    How do I stop banding in my gradients and vignetting?

    And finally, banding doesn't have to be in the file data, but can be in the monitor and/or calibration curves in the video card (8 bit video pipeline).

  • Trouble with brush, gradient and filling

    Hello
    Few days ago i've found a problem with using brush, gradient and filling layer. Each time i started a new document, filled it with a solid color, it looked ok. But when i added a new layer, added soft brush on canvas and changed the mode to any mode, the result looked very pixelated. I tried with all brush i have and found it just happened with all brush which have outer glow style ( like soft basic brush, lighting...etc..) . It was the same when i used gradient, filled a selection and changed the mode of this layer. You can see it on screenshots below:
    Add brush with normal mode:
    Overlay mode
    Apply gradient with normal mode
    Soft light mode
    Add more brush with Soft light mode
    I've used photoshop for years and never seen such a case before. Any idea is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    "Pixilated" may be the wrong term.  If you're talking about the appearance of bands in the data, perhaps you're referring to Posterization.
    What bit depth is your document (e.g., 8 bits/channel?  16 bits/channel)?  What color space (profile) is it in?
    If indeed you're talking about the posterization, look into your Dithering settings. Dithering, when enabled, will mix pixels of adjacent colors to very effectively hide the appearance of posterization.
    The following are two gradients, one rendered without [ ] Dither enabled, and one with, then contrast-enhanced with a Curves layer to show the difference in the appearance of posterization more clearly.
    -Noel

  • Advanced Button creator with custom gradient and corners

    Advanced Button creator with custom gradient and corners, check it here -
    http://talkxe.com/?p=56

    Advanced Button creator with custom gradient and corners, check it here -
    http://talkxe.com/?p=56

  • Gradients and the eye dropper tool

    When you're editing a gradient within the shape (as opposed to in the Gradients palette), is there any way to use the eye dropper tool to sample an existing color? In-shape gradient editing (or whatever Adobe calls it) is useless without the eye dropper.

    Hi, I came looking for an answer to this very question... but now I have figured out a way to do what you want to do.
    1. Select the object you want to make into a gradient and make it so... it'll be the dreaded white to black
    2. Select the colour that has the fil that you want to use for one end of the gradient
    3. Now Select the gradient and notice that the fill you previously selected is in the "last color" box in the color tab group.
    4. Now drag the color from the "last color" box to the gradient color box
    5. repeat as necessary... click color, then gradient, then drag the previous colour to the gradient color box.
    Hope this helps :-)

  • Gradient and text, changes when copied

    Hi, this is a CS3 document, exported in IDML for CS4.
    The price has no transparency, no other effects.
    When copied, the value stays the same but the visual changes. Any ideas?
    This thing happen in CS5 also but not in CS3.
    Thanks
    EDIT: if i change the first to -89 and then to -90, doesn't work. If i copy the third (that is now visually correct), the gradient stay normal.

    It looks like InDesign has repositioned the gradient within the text. Think of a gradient without the text masking it, as a rectangle that fades from yellow to green. With the Gradient tool you can click and drag to define the angle and size of that rectangle. The text then masks the rectangle so only the part within the text shows. I think InDesign did not reposition the text and the gradient properly when you pasted. You can highlight the text, then switch to the Gradient tool and drag to reposition the gradient. Unfortunately there is no way to make this part of a character style or paragraph style.

  • Gradients and PDF frame edge problems

    I have a document that has a series of cut-out bottles on a gradiant background.
    If I print this document to a color printer, it looks fine.
    If I print it to a PDF, however, all of the frame edges appear (that is, the frame edges of the cut-out bottles). If I lose the gradient, this problem no longer occurs.
    Can someone please explain how to resolve this problem (and why it's happenning to begin with)?
    Thanks in advance.

    In rereading the post, I may have misinterpreted what you were saying originally (a screen capture is a wonderful way to show us what you are talking about). I thought you were saying the transparent background area was showing as a differnt shade from the rest of the background, but I realize now that probably is not what you meant at all.
    First off let's try to get some more details about the file, and about the intended final output. Will this print on a press, or digitally? Are the colors Spot or Process?
    What settings are you using to make the PDF? You said "print" to PDF, and if that's the case, you're flattening transparency and what you desbcibe as frame edges showing might be thin white lines at the image bounding boxes. These are called "stitching" and are a flattening artifact that shows on screen and in low resolution prints made from the PDF, but generally not in press output.
    Print to PDF is a distillation process and ALWAYS makes PDF with flattened transparency. It's far better to leave transparency live for as long as possible, ideally letting the printer's RIP do the flattening. To keep live transparency you must EXPORT to PDF, not print (and starting in CS5 you for printed output you need to change the default on export from PDF [Interactive] to PDF [Print]) and use Acrobat 5 or higher compatibility. The Press Quality preset is one good choice if you are going to press and you are controlling color management on your end because you know the print conditions (it converts all colors to process and a single output profile). PDF/X-4 will preserve all colors and embedded profiles for the Printer's RIP to do the color management, but not all printers are up to date enough to handle this.

  • Help with gradient and 'ghost effect'

    Hello. I created this image many years ago and I have forgotten how I did it.
    I now want to create the same effect with this image ..
    The brown is #a03506 - I have tried in vain to replicate what I did. Radial gradient? I just can't remember.
    Can anyone help me please?
    Regards - Paul

    It's a little hard to tell what the original image looks like, but I'll give you some ideas of what you can do.
    I'm assuming you want something like this:
    If so, you need to turn the image into a layer.
    Double click the thumbnail of the image in the Layers panel.
    This opens the New Layer dialog box.
    You don't have to do anything here. Just click OK. The image is now its own layer.
    Click at the bottom of the Layers panel on the Add Layer Mask icon.
    This adds a rectangle next to the image in the Layers panel. This rectangle is the layer mask. Anything you put in this rectangle will hide parts of the image.
    Make sure the four "corners" of the layer mask are chosen, NOT the four corners of the image. This means that what you are about to do will affect only the image. (Don't worry about screwing up your image. Your working on the mask, not the image.)
    Now go and choose the Gradient tool from the Tools panel.
    Now, take the Gradient tool and position it over the image. For the ghost image I showed at the top of this post, I put the tool in the center and then dragged down to the bottom of the image. Look carefully and you can see the little line to the right of the door.
    Release the mouse. The image should be ghosted.
    Now, look at the Layers panel. See how the rectangle for the layer mask goes from white to black? That's because you drew a gradient on the mask. And anywhere there was black, you can't see the image and anywhere there is white you can. And there is change in opacity as the rectangle goes from white to black.
    I like to teach people that the layer mask is like a dirty window. Where the window is clean, you can see through it to see the image. Where the window is black, you can't see the image. And anything in between lets you see a percentage of the image.
    If you want a different effect, you can change the gradient shape. With the gradient tool still chosen, go to the top of the window and choose another gradient. For instance, radial. Then drag on the image making sure the layer mask is still chosen in the Layers panel.
    This will change the appearance of the layer mask and the effect on the image.
    You can use gradients or brushes or anything on the layer mask. Just make sure it is chosen and not the image or you'll be screwing up the image, not the mask.
    Let us know if this is what you need.

  • Live trace, gradients and compounding paths

    I have a complex shape, and I want to have a copy behind of it that is filled.. the shape itself is a combination of stokes and fills, so a straight-out fill doesn't look good at all.. I can get it all colored the same way using live paint groups to only fill in the areas that are completely surrounded.  The problem with that, though, is a gradient will apply separately to each object, but if I make a compound path it fills in some bits of the strokes the protrude as lines into the outside (it's a ironwork sort of pattern).
    The only way i can think to do this automatically would be to color all the selections the same and then rasterize it and then live trace it so it's one object and then apply the gradient to that, but I feel there's probably a more straightforward way.  Not sure I explained that properly, if something's unclear I'll be happy to elaborate

    "The problem with that, though, is a gradient will apply separately to each object..."
    Once you get to this point, you can grab the gradient tool from the tool panel and drag across all of the filled shapes. This will make one uniform gradient seen through the many pieces of the selection.
    Give that a try, let us know how it goes.

  • Image box with opacity gradients, and other parallax scrolling inhancements

    First i want to say great job Muse Team, this is starting to get really interesting:
    I've been playing around with parallax scrolling over gradients for effect,   but i'm dreaming about fading in full screen fields of texture.   without the weight of massive .png
    1)      I would love to see the Background Image folder persist in the rectangle Fill > Gradient menu, with the options to tile etc.
    2)     This feature along with speed and rotation controls for anchor finding, would really crack this thing wide open for me.    
    could be implemented with 2 lines coming off anchors:
    one line straight down that can be rotated like a hand on a clock, to set the landing orientation.
    and the second a diagonal line (thinking photoshop curves), to set the approach speed.
    Maybe holding shift with the hand tool could rotate the design page, though i have no idea what rotation would do to the exhisting scrolling menu, i guess ill leave implementation to you!  
    3)     One last tweak, the option to remove scroll bars entirely from the page properties menu would be nice, but intil then i found this bit of code for the bleeding edge:
    Insert as HTML to hide the horizontal scrollbar:
    <style>
    html,body{
    overflow-x:hidden;
    </style>
    thanks for your time

    Be sure your images are stacked properly in the order you need them in your Layers panel.
    If that doesn't solve your problem please provide a link or screenshots so we can see your problem.

  • Name gradients and adjustment brushes

    Is there a chance we will get the possibility to give each adjustment brush and gradients a name?
    The way it is now it is pretty confusing when using more than one.
    Like:
    Gradient1: Horizon
    Gradient2: Colour
    Adjustment Brush1: Eyes
    Adjustment Brush2: Teeth
    ect....
    TIA
    Joe

    Just wanted to quote John Miller from this link
    It had never even occurred to me to be able to name the pins! BRILLIANT! And SO easy to implement!
    Adobe, I can't think of a reason why at least this aspect couldn't make it into LR4 Final. Particularly since we have to do so much layering and stacking of different adjustment brushes and gradients to accomplish what we really want to with this tool. The ability to label these adjustments for future reference would really help.
    I find it shocking that something so obvious isn't even taken into consideration by Adobe officials (not to mention any kind of response to this). :-(

  • Banding in gradients and refresh failing

    I have the stock GeForce4MX graphics card that came with this computer, and I think it might be going out. Not sure, but I bought a new 22" Chimei flatscreen and it has the same millions of colors and MHz as an Apple monitor I looked at. I calibrated the new screen but the contrast isn't quite right. Also, I'm getting banding in the gradient areas which is bad considering I'm a graphic designer. Plus I used to be able to play Pogo.com's Payday Freecell, but even before I got the flat screen, the refresh was dragging big time. I'd have to minimize the window to get it to clean up.
    Anyone know if this sounds like the graphics card is failing? Any suggestions? Do I need to take the monitor back?

    Looking at your PDF it's difficult to tell exactly what's happening. I've had banding problems, however, in similar situations passing Illustrator files through Photoshop to be converted to high-resolution JPEGs for a very specific printer. Essentially, the file looks fine in Illustrator and fine in Photoshop until one significantly raises the white levels. The banding which then appears is very similar to the banding which appears upon printing. Can you see the errors in your file before they're printed? Or, only after printing?
    Here's a couple thoughts... save Illustrator file as hi-res PDF. Use CS4 High-Quality Print presets. Open in Photoshop, rasterize at 300dpi in PS's opening dialog box. Flatten and save as TIFF, etc. for printing. May solve the problem.
    Another setting to experiment with which may do nothing (and may cause the sky to fall) is to check your presets for Color Settings. Try setting Conversion Options > Intent > to Perceptual. This may make some users howl as Relative Colorimetric is the default setting for many users. However, it's been said to me that Perceptual is the correct setting to avoid banding in images with large gradients.
    For more information on the differences between the two, check out: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/color-space-conversion.htm
    Regarding the lines around placed images, I haven't dealt with that one. You may want to open the images in Photoshop and make sure there isn't some colored trim left over from the cropping process. Provided that isn't the case, try re-placing them before saving to PDF and moving to Photoshop.
    Hope this helps.
    Cheers!

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