Grayish color cast in QT for Windows

I am using Camtasia 4 on XP to make screencasts. I want to export the finals as QT h.264 because they are very small and look good. If I do that, the resulting file looks dingy and dirty on Windows QT player but it looks OK on the Mac. If I export using Animation codec on Win it looks fine (but huge), and I take that and transcode it to h.264 on the Mac. That also looks fine there. But the h.264 from the Mac looks dull and dirty on QT Win.
Any clues? This appears to be related to QTfW more than Camtasia.

I'm on a PC, but from what I find other places this bug also affects macs with "core video" (see http://sprynthesis.com/blog/?page_id=51 ). I have found no solution.
It appears that H264 compressed quicktime-files are displayed with too bright gamma - while all other formats I've tried does it right. Here is a screenshot showing the difference: http://www.rognemedia.no/diverse/H264-bug.jpg
The data in the video-file itself seems to be alright, and the gamma **** is caused by the video acceleration. You can quicktime play the video in the correct colours by going to your quicktime preferences and the advanced tab. Switch to "safe mode" (disabling DirectX or that core video thingy). However this is not a good solution as it hugs cpu power when playing the video, and if you send the video to someone you can bet they are not running in "safe mode".
Apple: We need a fix to this problem! The problem lies inside how Quicktime plays back the H264 files. It has been there for a long time and you know it.
I will be producing video for my masters and was planning on using H264 and MOV as it is practical when exporting from premiere/after effects. Seems I will have to use something else...

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Hi,
To set the color of Windows Title bar, please go to Windows Color and Appearance to check the result.
Right click desktop -> Personalization -> Windows Color -> in the item list, choose
Active Title Bar -> change its color 1 and 2
To change the color of the tinting, please refer to the following steps.
1. Make sure your computer's brightness is on full.
2. Go to Start -> Control Panel -> Display.
3. On the left bar, click Calibrate Color.
4. Follow on the on screen instructions to correct your gamma.
5. After you're done with this, on the next screen click "Skip brightness and contrast adjustment"
6. Click next, then you'll l be on the color balance adjustment screen, which is where you will correct the blue tint.
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7. On the next page you'll have the ability to switch between what you had it on previously and what you set it to.
To set the green progress bar to blue, please see if the following article is helpful.
http://www.sevenforums.com/customization/19207-blue-progressbars-windows-7-a.html
Note: Since the website is not hosted by Microsoft, the link may change without notice. Microsoft does not guarantee the accuracy of this information.
Best Regards,
Niki
Please remember to click "Mark as Answer" on the post that helps you, and to click "Unmark as Answer" if a marked post does not actually answer your question. This can be beneficial to other community members reading the thread.

My toolbar changed colors in Safari for Windows

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You can see it here:
http://bit.ly/eQLd5D

I've the same "problem". Everything is in an ugly Beige/yellow colour. I'm using 5.0.4. I have no idea how to change it, and I have tried a lot of things. On my laptop, I use a older version of Safari, there is everything in a kind of silver colour.
???

With Windows 7 Home Premium, whenever I start iTunes, I get a message that colors have been reverted to Windows Basic because iTunes won't support my Windows Aero configuration. Is there a fix for the incompatibility?

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How to correct for dual color casts?

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J

I just answered my own question: I changed the color of the Dodge Tool to pale Red and took out the cool cast and now I'm going to change the color to a cool color and take out the warm cast.
Sorry.
J

Can you tell me if you have drivers for color laserjet 2605dn for windows 7, and a easy way to downl

Drivers requires, color laserjet 2605DN for windows 7 64 bit

You can find all available software for that printer here.
http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/SoftwareIndex.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&prodNameId=1140731&...
I hope you found this link helpful.
If I have solved your issue, please feel free to provide kudos and make sure you mark this thread as solution provided!
Although I work for HP, my posts and replies are my own opinion and not those of HP.

CORRECT DRIVER FOR WINDOWS 7 AND HP COLOR LASER JET 4600dn

I'm having a problem with our IT department. My old 4600dn worked great until they started downloading new drivers for Windows 7, which they installed just recently. Now the one he INSISTS I use has only one tray selection.... Auto. I'm trying to print business cards..(absolutely no problem till now).... but he INSISTS that this is the only driver. Then he wants me to choose Pg.....select 1, then MANUAL DUPLEX. That's almost impossible for the printer. I'm almost POSITIVE you have a print driver that will allow me the tray selections I had before he installed Windows 7 and this particular driver. I always used "Tray 1," CURRENT PAGE, it zoomed through the perforated cardstock like a streak!!!! Now, the poor printer is trying to run perforated cardstock through the duplexing unit. Out of 10 pages of cards, I ended up with 1 front printed and 9 pieces of cardstock that stuck in the tray and jammed in the duplexing unit. Is there a CORRECT print driver for this particular printer that will allow all my normal functions to be visible and viable? I don't have the model, nor serial #, as it is work printer and I'm at home now, so I can't get on chat. He is hard to get along with and has been playing games this whole time. I found one driver he inadvertantly left a day and a half ago and printed the cards like lightening, as it used to....7 minutes and I had 200 cards for two different staff members. PLEASE HELP! I think he's leading me down a merry path. It also has to be able to duplex fairly heavy graphic pages...and even the driver he accidently left as an option, won't print the graphics. I just KNOW you have a driver with all the options that will allow it to print to Windows 7 Operating System with all the former options. HELLLLLLLP!
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Kathi T.
[text removed for privacy]

Any suggestions re correct driver for windows 7 and HP 4600dn?

HP Color LaserJet CM2320nf MFP with fax for Windows 10

Good morning !!! How can I yield to download and install all necessary software for OS X El Capitan, OS X Yosemite 10.10 and finally for Windows 8.1 and Windows 10 operating systems. I would be very thankful if you should be kind enough to send your prompt response via email to my above inquiries asap. Sincerely yours, Xabier Mendiola Sañudo

The product you have seems to be a commercial printer. For the best chance at finding a solution I would suggest posting in the forum for HP Business Support!
You may find the Commercial Laserjet board here.
http://h30499.www3.hp.com/t5/Printers-LaserJet/bd-p/bsc-413
Hope this helps!
Help the community by marking this post as a solution if it solved your issue!.
If my post helped you in any way, please click the blue KUDOS star under my name! It would mean a great deal.

Color management help needed for adobe CS5 and Epson printer 1400-Prints coming out too dark with re

Color management help needed for adobe CS5 and Epson printer 1400-Prints coming out too dark with reddish cast and loss of detail
System: Windows 7
Adobe CS5
Printer: Epson Stylus Photo 1400
Paper: Inkjet matte presentation paper with slight luster
Installed latest patch for Adobe CS5
Epson driver up to date
After reading solutions online and trying them for my settings for 2 days I am still unable to print what I am seeing on my screen in Adobe CS5. I calibrated my monitor, but am not sure once calibration is saved if I somehow use this setting in Photoshop’s color management.
The files I am printing are photographs of dogs with lots of detail I digitally painted with my Wacom tablet in Photoshop CS5 and then printed with Epson Stylus 1400 on inkjet paper 20lb with slight luster.
My Printed images lose a lot of the detail & come out way to dark with a reddish cast and loss of detail when I used these settings in the printing window:
Color Handling: Photoshop manages color, Color management -ICM, OFF no color adjustment.
When I change to these settings in printer window: Color Handling: Printer manages color. Color management- Color Controls, 1.8 Gamma and choose Epson Standard it prints lighter, but with reddish cast and very little detail and this is the best setting I have used so far.
Based on what I have read on line, I think the issue is mainly to do with what controls are set in the Photoshop Color Settings window and the Epson Printer preferences. I have screen images attached of these windows and would appreciate knowing what you recommend I enter for each choice.
Also I am confused as to what ICM color management system to use with this printer and CS5:
What is the best ICM to use with PS CS5 & the Epson 1400 printer? Should I use the same ICM for both?
Do I embed the ICM I choose into the new files I create?
Do I view all files in the CS5 workspace in this default ICM?
Do I set my monitor setting to the same ICM?
If new file opens in CS5 workspace and it has a different embedded profile than my workspace, do I convert it?
Do I set my printer, Monitor and PS CS5 color settings to the same ICM?
Is using the same ICM for all devices what is called a consistent workflow?
I appreciate any and all advice that can be sent my way on this complicated issue. Thank you in advance for your time and kind help.

It may be possible to figure out by watching a Dr.Brown video on the subject of color printing. Adobe tv
I hope this may help...............

Color Cast

The LCD Touch Screen on my W512 has a rather bad color cast. For instance if you look a bit form the side or from above the color changes quite dramatically. One example is the area of a windows between the scroll bar and the very edge of the window. Looking from above this area turns red if the 'correct' color looking from the front is white, yellow if the 'correct' color looking from the front is blue, etc. Looking from the side does not change the color much in this case. However, white areas looking from the side turn redish. Unfortunately, it is not just limited to looking at the screen from the side/top. In some applications, i.e. Adobe Reader and others, text has green and red shadows around them. I did not have that on any other laptop from other brands. Is that a defect, a 'property' of the touch screen LCD, or something else?

Good luck! The white point tool is pretty much broken.

Strong red color cast over some images, solved

Hi,
This issue was driving me nuts recently, but having just found the solution I thought I'd share in case anyone else runs into the same issue.
From one day to the next, my Mac (late 2013 MBP retina, Mavericks) suddenly started to display some (not all) images with a red semitransparent overlay.
This would occur most often in Apple applications like Finder, Preview, Safari, Mail etc.
In the Finder's icon view with a folder full of images, some thumbnails would have the color overlay, some others wouldn't. When resizing the thumbnails the overlay would flicker on and off on various images randomly.
Affected images would also print with the same color cast on a color printer.
The Solution
After a lot of trial and error I found that the issue was caused by a custom libpng library, installed by Homebrew (http://brew.sh).
It was probably installed much earlier than this this issue started, maybe the library was updated that day, or something in OSX was updated triggering an incaompatibility leading to this issue.
I'm not sure why I installed this library in the first place, most likely as a dependency needed by another recipe I since uninstalled. I could uninstall it without issues.
Caveat: to fully uninstall a recipe, use:
brew uninstall <recipe> --force
in my case I did:
brew uninstall libpng --force
Otherwise Homebrew will reinstall the library the next time you upgrade your brew installation (which is most likely what happened in my case).
Hope this helps at least someone.

Hi, Chan
Thanks for the explanation of this subject. Anyway ... there are quite a number of possibilities that something is clipped during whole process. First, some channels can be clipped off at the sensor level, than after matrix conversion to RIMM, than if EV slider is used (and even if it isn't, because there is baseline exposure value) ... or Saturation slider ... then after correction using LUT ... and finally during conversion to sRGB / AdobeRGB / whatever ... maybe some sort of soft clipping at some of these points would be better (just my opinion)
However, there is another highlight issue I noticed, illustrated with these two samples (Canon 400D, ACR 5.7, windows platform)
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=4KEEDQW9
Left picture has all default settings. On the right picture, everything is the same, except that I made a small patch with adjustment brush tool at the top left corner (far from the center of the picture) and changed exposure value of the adjustment brush to a nonzero value (other adjustment brush sliders don't produce similar strange effect). Appearance of the area of the Sun changes abruptly and looks strange. Test with my HSV image from previous post shows that all colors are affected (not only yellow)
Also, there is a similar abrupt change in the highlight behavior if I lower the global EV slider from -0.25 to -0.30 (0.25 is baseline exposure value for this camera), or if I raise Recovery slider from 6 to 7 (which seems to have similar effect). I think these two issues are unrelated to clipping in sensor color space vs. RIMM
Thanks

Lightroom color cast question of JPEG image

Lightroom color cast question of JPEG image
Camera Canon MKII Color Matrix Adobe RGB
Photoshop CS Color Setting Adobe RGB (1998)
Lightroom 1.2 as new lightroom user I did not think that I needed to choose a color setting or color profile until I am ready to print my photos. I have not done any preset camera calibration.
Link to my website with example photo http://www.basecampphotos.com/color.jpg
My question is why is Lightroom displaying the images with a yellow color cast ? The image is a print screen from Lightroom on the left and Photoshop on the right The color cast problem can be seen in the white walls of the stairway. Also when viewing the image with Windows Picture and Fax viewer the walls are white as expected.
Any ideas or suggestions as to why Lightroom is displaying the images with the yellow color cast or what I need to do to correct the issue ?
Thanks
Jim

Almost definitely a corrupt monitor profile. Time and again this turns out to be the cause of such differences between PS and LR. You need to recalibrate the monitor or if you do not have a hardware calibrator, delete the profile from windows' monitor properties pane to test and then get a hardware calibrator.
P.S since you are using adobeRGB jpegs, Windows picture and Fax viewers cannot give you the correct colors even on a calibrated monitor. Those are not color managed programs (I believe picture viewer finally is in Vista but definitely not in XP which you appear to be using). Also, PS has to be correctly set up to always preserve embedded profiles and to ask when you have profile mismatches, otherwise even PS will give incorrect color. Make sure to set this up in Edit>Color settings.
P.S.2: Make sure you are not applying defaults in Lightroom to your images either on import or elsewhere. Sometimes people by accident define develop defaults that in this case might contain a white balance shift. Go to LR preferences and open the Presets tab. Here click on "Reset all default Develop settings" and make sure that only the auto grayscale checkbox is ticked. For images that it might have already happened to, make sure to hit the reset button.

Color faded in photoshop (CS3 Windows)

Hi all,
Recently when I open an image or graphic in photoshop the color all looks faded. I've checked and its not CMYK color mode - but it looks like it.
When i go to save the image though (e.g. Save for Web) the color is normal again?
Not sure what setting has changed or whether I've accidentally pressed something but I would appreciate if someone has experienced this before or knows what I've done if they could let me know.
It's quite distracting !
Thanks

Your response is much appreciated.
The response is presumptuous because we don't know what operating system you are using.
Most Windows browsers should not shift sRGB color at all BECAUSE Windows Defaults/Assigns/Applies/Assumes sRGB when files are untagged (or unmanaged), so BOTH tagged and untagged sRGB should look identical in Windows (at least in Vista).
The Mac is 'different' BECAUSE it Defaults/Assigns/Applies/Assumes MonitorRGB when files are untagged (or unmanaged) — this means OSX will display tagged and untagged sRGB differently in color-managed apps.
In Mac unmanaged applications, OSX will display tagged and untagged sRGB identically BECAUSE the same default monitor profile is being Assigned/Applied/Assumed.
In Photoshop, if we strip the profile, Photoshop (in essence) Defaults/Assigns/Applies/Assumes its Working RGB.
If colormanaged applications like Photoshop and Safari are displaying tagged sRGB with a yellow color cast — you probably have a bad monitor profile to rule out...

Red Color Cast when printing with Canon Pixma Pro 9000

My printer is giving me a horrible red color cast after the latest software update. The color cast can also be seen in Preview and in the print window. No changes to drivers have been made. Printer worked fine before the update.
Has anyone else found this problem and offered a solution?

You may find it helpful.
Thanks, but if you look in the archives of the Apple ColorSync Users List, you'll find thousands of posts from his Mac dating back to the beginning of the List.
The principle is that you configure your device colour spaces to the largest gamut of which they are capable, calibrate them to a stable condition, characterise that condition in a measured test chart, and build ICC device profiles for those characterisations in your ICC profiling package of choice.
You then capture and correct colour with correct colour previews, resulting in normalised exposures in an ideal CIE colour space. With you normalised exposures, you convert into output condition 1, output condition 2, output condition n which is what repurposing is about.
But you do no apply a gamma change on top of the colour managed rendering. That is incorrect by definition. You apply your gamma change as part of the colour correction in order to get your normalised exposure.
If you imagine this in a prepress process, then you can forget the concept of determinate rendering which is the bedrock of the ICC architecture. If you as photographer do a gamma correction on top of your presentation print or proof print, then you can claim that you have a presentation print, but you cannot contractually claim that you have a proof print as your proof print is a colour correction on top of the colour management system. If Apple Aperture allows the user access to colour correction on top of colour management, then that is a bug in the application. Sorry ...
/hh

Blue Color Cast when Printing

I have just carefully calibrated (again) my Canon Pro 9000 Mk11 Printer and Asus Pro Art screen using Spyder equipment.
Printing in LR4.4 consistently produces a blue cast. I moved to Elements 11 and using the same just created profile printed the same picture/file.
No color cast.
I have LR5 Beta also so I printed same on it. No color cast - to all intents and purposes identical to Elements 11.
'Perceptual' setting used throughout and no 'Print Adjustment' used in LR.
I am using Windows 8 64bit.
Why should LR4 only produce a color cast? The settings have been carefully checked ...

Hello:
I'm not sure of site etiquite, whether I should ask another's advice about a separate problem, but my dilemma is so much like this and I have not been able to fix it on my own nor with Adobe or Epson's tech support.
I too am getting out of my printer only prints that have a blue cast to them. My printer is an Epson r2000. I print from Lightroom 5 and Photoshop CS 6 or now its Creative Cloud equivalent. Yesterday, the i7 laptop I have been using for photo editing (with a better monitor attached) started producing only bluish prints--intended to be black and white (the max whites are white but everything else has a blue cast). It also was apparent in color prints when I tested that alternative. I was not too concerned because yesterday FedEx also delivered a gonzo new desktop computer that I had ordered just for photo editing. I thought, "Well, I'll install all my Adobe stuff there and migrate the Lightroom files and everything will be OK." But, immediately, the blue-cast problem showed up on the new computer. I thought I probably "migrated" the problem when I brought over my catalog, images and settings from the laptop.
I reinstalled the newly installed printer driver and reinstalled the latests ICC files for the papers I use (Ilford Gold Fiber Silk and Gold Fiber Mono), but the problem persisted. I didn't yet know about blowing off the preset files.
I spent a lot of time on the phone with Epson yesterday and chatted at length (1 hour 39 minutes) online with Adobe tech support today. Adobe had me do what you recommended--blow off the preset files and begin again, all to no avail. On my own, I again deleted and reinstalled the printer driver and wiped out the preset files.
Still, I get a bluish overlay on my prints.
After reading your posts, I meticulously checked my settings. Everything seems alright.
I did one other thing. I printed images that had not been imported to lightroom in Windows Photo View through the same 13-inch Epson. They came out perfect.
Now, I just don't know what to do next. Epson and Adobe support have done their apparent best. I live in a small town at the end of the Columbia River where I am looked upon as one of the computer problem solvers (a degree in Literature notwithstanding).
I've thought of blowing off lightroom 5 and going back to version 4, but, as I understand it, that would mean losing all my metadata for some 40,000 images dating back to 1966, most of which I had to plug in by hand since they are from scanned negatives.
Do you have any advice?
I am a little anxious because I am supposed to have prints ready for a show opening on July 27.
Thank you in advance for any advice you may offer.
Paul
Paul Haist
Astoria, Oregon
503-780-3379
[email protected]

Grayish color cast in QT for Windows

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