Green color cast

I have just installed light room 5 and all photos appear with a green filter - why?
I also have de-installed and reinstalled the program using my computers control panel - but when reinstalled the same problem persists & photos loaded in deinstalled version appear in the newly reinstalled program, can anyone help?
Message title was edited by: Brett N

Go here:
http://forums.adobe.com/community/lightroom

Similar Messages

My manipulated images come out with a green color cast and poor quality

I manage my photos with ACDSee, but use Photoshop CS3 for much of my editing. The image leaves ACDSee with rich true colors, and while I'm editing in Photoshop the image looks like I want it. But when I save the image and view it in ACDSee, it now is faded, has a green color cast and looks faded, dull and shallow. What do you think is happening? Thanks. Rickrans

One other place to look.... If you shoot raw images, there's a separate configuration for the color space the Camera Raw converter delivers its results in. Click the little link at the bottom-center of the Camera Raw dialog. If you want to work in the sRGB color space, change it as shown here:
-Noel

Preview has a green color cast

Howdy,
I am having an issue with Preview where it gives my images a green color cast and higher saturation/contrast. This also happens when I look at them in Safari. BUT the images look fine in Photoshop, Firefox, Capture One RAW software and any other non-apple software.
Please let me know if you have any idea as to what is happening! Thanks!

Everybody, report preview problems to apple at:
http://www.apple.com/feedback/macosx.html
My biggest problem in preview 4.0 is it freezes while trying to view large images across four apple LCD's. Sometimes I see a gray screen.

Why is my black and white video showing purple/green color cast from ProRes 422 h264?

When transcoding from ProRes 422 to h264 in Adobe Media Encoder, I'm seeing both green and purple color cast on my black and white video. ProRes on top, h264 on bottom.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dqzkkje3ccgravb/Screenshot%202013-10-28%2013.33.27.png
Another example:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5e1qyhmycgwbpkt/Screenshot%202013-10-28%2014.14.36.png

What do you make of the fact that the same video, encoded in MPEG Streamclip does not have the issue on the same hardware, played in Quicktime Player?
A valid data point for consideration, but the only way to know with certainty is to get the image onto a calibrated TV.
Observation will always trump deduction. So...observe! (Just be sure to do it accurately with a calibrated TV.)
The Vimeo preset is creating H.264 MP4 files. AVCHD is a very specific subset of the H.264 codec, and cannot be generated by PP.

Adobe Camera RAW (All Versions) Import Canon .CR2 / RAW images with an orange / green color cast.

All versions of Adobe Camera RAW including the latest 7.3 import .CR2 images with a greenish / orange color cast.
Tested on 7D, and 5D III
Makes Hardwood floors, and flesh tones look abysmal.
Canon's Digital Photo Professional renders the colors fine, as does ACDSee 5.0 Pro (when viewing) Exporting from ACDSee however is another story as things look even worse than Adobe. DPP can export perfectly.
Changes to Color Gammut / Space have little or no effect.

Good day!
You might want to post on the dedicated Camera Raw Forum.
http://forums.adobe.com/community/cameraraw
Also posting some screenshots might help illustrate the issue.
Regards,
Pfaffenbichler

5D Markiii and a green color cast

Does anyone else experience a green cast/tint to their images while shooting in JPG with a 5DMkiii? I shoot using AWB and have even adjusted the color on the quick screen histogram to try and compensate....but skintones consistantly look green. My monitor is calibrated and I've tried shooting using custom white balance and Kelvin. Nothing helps.

ScottyP wrote:
Does it happen everywhere at all times? Inside, outside, day, night, fluorescent lights and mixed lighting, or does it happen sporadically?
White balance frustration is 1/2 the reason I always shoot RAW and not JPG. It alone is as big a factor as all the other reasons combined in my own thinking. So much more latitude to fix WB in RAW.
Quite so. Fluorescent lights especially can generate spurious colors that are hard to correct. The imitation light bulbs with an embedded fluorescent tube are often the worst offenders. I have one in my desk lamp at work, and it projects a disagreeable green tint on the gray walls. (Since those walls have several of my pictures on them, it's particularly annoying.) Fortunately, those bulbs are losing ground to LEDs, whose light is more pleasing to the eye and figures to be more familiar to cameras and photo editors. Canon provides a "white fluorescent" WB setting, but I think it's aimed at removing excess pink, not excess green.
Bob
Boston, Massachusetts USA

Pink color cast on macbook pro 15" with retina display

Hi,
I just got my very first apple computer a few weeks ago, but I had a annoying pink color cast of the display.
I changed my first deivce but even the 2nd had the same issue..
I noticed, that even the Apple logo shines in a pink cast, so it seems to be an issue of the display light itself.
Trying to calibrate the display with a spyder did not work, i got a very strange green color cast what seems to be clear, if the main problem is not the display itself,
but the display light.
I went to the Apple Sore in Hamburg and I found out, that all new macbook pros 15" with retina display had the same issue, but not older macbooks or some macbook pro 15" with retina display from clients.
As a photographer, I find this pink cast very annoying and I gave back my 2nd macbook pro 15" with retina display..
Is there a way, to get a macbook pro 15" with retina display without a pink cast, where the Apple logo shines in pure white instead of a pink color cast?
I don´t want a pink apple logo, nor a display with a pink cast..

WOW 0_o
Go back and get another one.. They will certainly try and make your day better by offering free items, try to get Apple Care free.
In all my time as being a technician I am going to have to put you on a list I have prestigiously placed for situations like these.
List of multiple repeat post-replaced failures.
Basically.. It's a list of all the people that have had to get a computer / part replaced and received the same issue again after the replacement.
HERE IT IS:
3x Logic board replacement (Warranty). I had to replace three logic boards for this one poor sod that had the same issue over and over again. In the end Apple gave him a whole new computer.
"" Same as above but happened to my friend the other day ""
* YOU *
Graphics card causing display anomalies.

Media Encoder adding RBG color casts on BW 16mm Footage

Hey Everyone,
I am really stumped by this one. I am working with FCP6 and Apple Pro Res HQ scans of 16mm B&W footage. I am trying to encode a self-contained .mov file (direct from FCP) in Adobe Media Encoder CC (for Blu-ray) and then burn to Blu-ray with Encore CS6.
I burned the first test Blu-ray last night and when I played it back on my Blu-ray player/TV, I was stunned by the fidelity and definition of the otherwise thick/complicated 16mm grain structure, even via what was only a 6GB .m4v render (compressed from 33.5GB .mov). Everything was perfect...EXCEPT...I got these horrible "color casts" of red, blue, green, magenta, across practically every shot in the footage. Particularly in the last shot of the drain pipe (see example clips 14 seconds long):
Original: https://vimeo.com/97456916 (pass: "original")
Blu-ray: https://vimeo.com/97453674 (pass: "colorcast")
Obviously the footage does not look this in either FCP6 or .mov in QT7. I just double checked and the color casts ARE visible when playing back the ME converted .m4v in Encore. I have also taken the .mov from FCP and brought that into Encore and NO COLORCASTS. I have also taken the .mov, reimported it to FCP and but a 3-Way Color Corrector on it and put the saturation at zero, exported that, and then ME>Encore and it still adds the color....So I am 99% positive this is a Media Encoder issue. Here are the settings I used:
Considering how long is has taken me to get satisfactory web compression results from 16mm footage in the past, I feel like I just hit a grand slam in the bottom of the 9th with the playback fidelity of the first test Blu-ray. The motion and definition are phenomenal, I mean we are talking Criterion quality--without X.264 or Blu Code--(even with all the modern "overcompensation" crap turned off on my TV). I AM SO SO CLOSE TO RENDERING/BURNING A PERFECT BLU-RAY IF I CAN JUST FIGURE THIS COLOR THING OUT!
Got a deadline to get this into the hands of a couple of prominent filmmakers.
Any help or ideas that anyone can provide will be most appreciated.
Thank so much!
Alec
MAC PRO // OSX 10.7.5 // 2 x 2.66Gmz 6-Core Intel Xeon // 32 GB 1333 MHz DDR3

***SOLUTION***
Well it seems silly that I had to do this at all, but here is the workflow that finally seemed to solve the issue without adding an extra level of encoding...
Save self-contained .mov of my timeline in FCP6 > bring that back in FCP as a separate sequence and apply the "Desaturate" filter (Image Control > Desaturate) to the entire film > save as self-contained .mov again > convert in AME > master and burn to Blu-ray with Encore > Presto!!! NO COLORCASTS on B&W 16mm footage in Encore and no colorcasts from the file on the burned Blu-ray disc.
I believe I stated it above, but in case I didn't, adjusting the chroma and/or "desaturating" via FCP's color corrector plugins did not work...even with the exact same workflow otherwise. I have no idea why, but if anyone ever runs into the same problem, this worked for me. Only took two weeks to do something that I guessed would take a day, maybe two. Geesh.
Thanks again guys for all the suggestions. Really really appreciate it.
-Alec

2.1.2, previews with color cast

After updating, previews are generated with a heavy color cast, some green, red and yellow casts. White balance and tint are all wrong, what's amazing is that a few of them are fine which have the same shooting settings as the wrong ones, going back to 2.1.1, real weird, anyone with similar situation? any fix?

firstlaunch wrote:
You can locate it in the following directory:
System/Library/CoreServices/RawCamera.bundle
Get info on this file. If it is version 2.0.9, it's the latest dcrcu 2.2. You want to delete this file.
Once you delete, go to the following location and re-install the old one. It should be 2.0.6...I think.
http://www.apple.com/support/downloads/digitalcamerarawcompatibilityupdate21.htm l
Reboot your system.
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

Color Cast

The LCD Touch Screen on my W512 has a rather bad color cast. For instance if you look a bit form the side or from above the color changes quite dramatically. One example is the area of a windows between the scroll bar and the very edge of the window. Looking from above this area turns red if the 'correct' color looking from the front is white, yellow if the 'correct' color looking from the front is blue, etc. Looking from the side does not change the color much in this case. However, white areas looking from the side turn redish. Unfortunately, it is not just limited to looking at the screen from the side/top. In some applications, i.e. Adobe Reader and others, text has green and red shadows around them. I did not have that on any other laptop from other brands. Is that a defect, a 'property' of the touch screen LCD, or something else?

Good luck! The white point tool is pretty much broken.

Camera LCD vs raw on pc monitor, color cast

Dear all, I have this doubt about my 5D mk ii. The image displayed by the camera LCD is very different in comparison to the file dislapyed by DPP on my monitor. I did not a calibration , but I tried also a couple of other monitors just in case. The difference is not only in saturation and contrast, but also in a different cast: magenta in the LCD camera vs more Green in the pc monitor. Is the camera applying some kind of preset to the raw in the LCD? If yes, how to disable this function, at least for the color cast? I use the faithfull preset in my picture style, so I don’t understand why this pretty big difference. Thanks in advance

progster wrote:
Dear all, I have this doubt about my 5D mk ii. The image displayed by the camera LCD is very different in comparison to the file dislapyed by DPP on my monitor. I did not a calibration , but I tried also a couple of other monitors just in case. The difference is not only in saturation and contrast, but also in a different cast: magenta in the LCD camera vs more Green in the pc monitor. Is the camera applying some kind of preset to the raw in the LCD? If yes, how to disable this function, at least for the color cast? I use the faithfull preset in my picture style, so I don’t understand why this pretty big difference. Thanks in advanceThe camera's WB default is "Auto", and it will try to assess the ambient color temperature and make an intelligent guess. If it guesses wrong (and some models are much better at it than others, especially when tungsten or fluorescent light is present), you can always fix it in post processing. DPP gives you plenty of options - although, annoyingly, it doesn't keep track of the closest color temperature to the WB value it inferred, and the "color temperature" WB setting always starts at 5200 K (Canon's definition of "daylight").

Removing color casts, and correcting colors to match reference materials? any guides/tutorial/videos

I have been looking for tutorials showing how to use SpeedGrade. I am now comfortable with the UI enough to use it after watching these: http://www.youtube.com/user/AdobeTV/videos?query=speedgrade
I am looking for tutorials that show how to do a couple things, first I would like to be able to remove any color casts. In photoshop to do this you can use a curves layer and use the set white point color picker and click somplace that is supposed to be white. and in premier you could do something similar using the Fast Color Corrector. So basically I am looking for a way to target an area in a frame that should be grays, In Anime, the eyes generally will always be shades of gray, so that is what I would target usually when working with anime in photoshop/premiere. If anyone knows of a tutorial that shows how to do this type of color cast removal color correction in SpeedGrade could you please share a link.
Some of the older 80's and 90's anime on film, the film has aged and that is where the color cast came from. There is also a loss of color information across the board. For instance in the below picture. The sky is supposed to be more blue instead of teal/sea green.
Another thing is back in the 80s and 90s a lot of Anime worked from limited color palletes; something like maybe 16 colors total, so a lot of colors are used repeatedly. So even with only a limited amount of reference material I should be able to get the corrections close. (I dont have reference clips for every single episode, only a handful of scenes from a handful of episodes.)
I have some reference material showing approximately what the colors should be. So my next question is if anyone knows of any tutorials/guides/videos showing how to use SpeedGrade to color correct a clip so that the colors match up with the colors used in a reference clip
I was also wondering about auto correction based on a reference clip, although I am guessing this is still not possible.
When I watched the websiminar: http://seminars.adobeconnect.com/_a227210/p738pxm9zs0/ at about 43 minutes into it, a feature is shown that automatically adjust the color using a clip that contains a colorchart.
I was wondering if a tool like that could analyse a clip start to finish, to create a pallete of used colors, and then compare that to the colors used in another clip and correct them. (a feature like this would probably be more useful/accurate in anime than it would liveaction but who knows.)
Another UI related question:
I did have one question, the only place I see to access the colorwheels is in the looks tab, my video I am working on, just manages to fit at 100% in the monitor.
So I would prefer to hide or collapse the different looks(maybe even with a hotkey) so that I can access the color tools that it is covering, I attached a picture of what I am talking about. I know pressing "P" hides everything at the bottom, and figured maybe there is already a way to hide/minimize/collapse the look presets to access the tools behind them without shrinking down the size of the monitor preview.

There is a special grading filter called "Color match" which can assist in cross-referencing the black/white/gray levels from one playhead to another but it's not documented yet. The suggested way to set black/white/gray points in Sg is to adjust it visually, using the waveforms as a guide, but there's no chance of doing that for something as small as a character's eye. There's no "eyedropper" picker on the primary grading panel because Sg isn't a correcting tool, but a cinematic grading tool. 99% of the time the end result of an Sg grading session is a long way from what the camera pixels actually recorded.
If all you are doing is reversing a color cast then Speedgrade isn't the right tool to use - you should be working in Premiere Pro (with the Fast or 3-Way Color Correctors). If you're a Photoshop person the UI is much more recognizable, it'll handle all the native footage you can throw at it, and you get your B-G-W eyedroppers.
In Speedgrade CS6 you cannot hide the Presets panel in the Look or Mask tab. The UI is really designed for use in a two-monitor system (which all professional colorists will have), and/or with a hardware controller (which means you can keep the entire bottom panel hidden).

Magenta Color Cast in Center of Photos

My photos seem to have a very heavy magenta cast on the central portion of the photo. There also seem to be green/blue casts at the edges. I have tried resetting the phone and all the other basic fixes...

I have the exact same problem and it is quite pronounced. As a photographer, I know that this is considered a typical problem on some high end digital camera systems. It is typically caused by the angle of light hitting the sensor at certain angles and creating different color casts at different lens positions. One high end systems, this is solved using a semi-opaque white filter to isolate the colors and then apply a lens cast correction to all affected photos. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to do this same thing with my iPhone images because they are jpegs and not RAW. I'll keep looking but if someone else has figured it out, I would love to know how to fix this. Its really distracting.

LR 4.2 D600 deep shadow magenta color cast

LR4.2 gives some ugly magenta color cast on deep shadows especially at high iso pictures. Nikon Capture NX2 gives them too, but not so heavy. If I push the shadows at iso 1600, they are all magenta. Is it related to the beta state of the D600 support? My D700 is at iso 3200 in deep shadows completely black (only luminance noise), even pushed. Is there a possibility to correct that issue with LR (high iso blackpoint correction)? The shadow color tint correction from the calibration option is not really a solution, because it does not only correct the deep shadows, so the other shadows get a green tint.

Astrowheat wrote:
i also face this problem...
It appears the magenta shdow area in the above shot is confined to the bottom edge of the image. I just discussed this on a similar post concering a Canon 5D MKII with the same issue in the bottom corners of the image. I suspect it may be due to light entering the viewfinder and leaking into the mirror box:
http://forums.adobe.com/message/4843206#4843206
It's simple enough to try similar shots with the viewfinder blocked. When I shoot images on a tripod I always make it a point to block the viewfinder with the Canon strap mounted blind, a hat, or even my hand to keep direct light from entering the viewfinder. The only thing between your viewfinder and the image sensor is the foam seal that the mirror rests on in the up shooting position. At high ISO even the tiniest light leak could cause fogging of the image, and it will be most visible in the image bottom edge or corners (i.e. image is upside down on the sensor).

Okay before my ipod power and volume buttons werent working but i never dropped it, then one day i was in a app and my ipod froze so i held the home button down and the screen went a bright green color and isnt showing up in itunes

okay I just recently bought a ipod touch 4thG and im already having issues. recently the power and volume buttons stopped working after i syncd my ipod, i shrugged it off figuring it would come back i could live without it. but today I was on my ipod while it was charging and the screen just froze so i pressed and held the home button (being that's the only button that actually works) then the screen turned this bright yellowish lime green color and its not responding to ANYTHING! my computer isnt even reading it when i plug it up into itunes! so what should i do? can anyone help me? i feel like i just wasted $200...

Try:
- iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
- If not successful and you can't fully turn the iPod fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
- If still not successful that indicates a hardware problem and an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store is in order.

Green color cast

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for