Guidance for HDD upgrade MacBook Pro 2007

Like the title says, I want to put in a heftier HDD on this computer, which has a Model ID of 3,1, 2.4GHz. Some of the choices and specs are confusing, so all knowledgable advice would be appreciated. It seems that the computer will only support up to 500GB drive, and the chip appears to be limited to 1.5 GBs connection speed, and I find no drives with less than 3GBs. I know that is generally backwards compatible, but is there any limit where it's not, at say 6GBs? And it appears to be true that this model will not support an SDD, but will it support a hybrid drive, like the ones Seagate makes?
Again, any advice and experience appreciated.
Thanks,
-gg

• is there any limit where it's not, at say 6GBs?
So far, all the sata drives are backwards compatible. Folks like MacWorld that keep an eye on this stuff have never given us a heads-up.
• And it appears to be true that this model will not support an SDD,
Are you sure? Where did you see that? Check what this site has to say: http://www.macsales.com
The ssd upgrade is well worththe trouble and the expense - the speed boost is quite amazing. SSD should be officially renamed Super Sonic Drive.

Similar Messages

What laptop HDD to the experts use? Looking to upgrade Macbook Pro 2007

I changed my mind about getting a portable external HDD and decided to upgrade my internal HDD on my Macbook Pro I purchased back in 2007. The applecare is almost up so I might as well upgrade now while I have the cash.
I would like to know what 2.5" internal hard drive professional video editors recommend (being an amateur editor myself).
I was thinking the Seagate Momentus 7200 RPM 500GB drive but discovered that there are two kinds, one with a free-fall mechanism that some say conflicts with the macbook's own mechanism. Furthermore, I have heard that recent tests show the 7200 RPM 500GB Momentus isn't as fast as its price or specs would make you believe. Is this true?
Have any of you found a satisfying internal hard drive for your video editing on the go needs?
Let me know.
Here are the specs on my current HDD:
Hitachi HTS541616J9SA00:
Capacity: 149.05 GB
Model: Hitachi HTS541616J9SA00
Revision: SB4AC7CP
Serial Number: xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Native Command Queuing: Yes
Queue Depth: 32
Removable Media: No
Detachable Drive: No
BSD Name: disk0
Mac OS 9 Drivers: No
Partition Map Type: GPT (GUID Partition Table)
S.M.A.R.T. status: Verified
Volumes:
Mrkvantosh HD:
Capacity: 148.73 GB
Available: 4.84 GB
Writable: Yes
File System: Journaled HFS+
BSD Name: disk0s2
Mount Point: /

The new FCP has a set of codecs just for offline edits its called prores proxy. This is for offline edits only. Professional editors know better than to try to edit on a laptop. This would be the equivalent of pulling a house uphill with a 1955 VW beetle. If you insist on this, both Caldigit and Sonnet make firewire 800 raids. But you will not be able to finish using Proress HQ or Prores 4444. So you need to decide what your audience is. If this is for weddings, that does not require any sort of quality but if your editing episodic TV or even commercials you really need to use a Mac Pro and a proper RAID. and finish with Prores HQ or 4444 and then output to a finishing codec such as MPE2 or what ever the station requires. If you use a homade drive which is what you are suggesting prepare yourself for a world of hurt. These are for storage ...not for editing at best you may be able to use half the drive and be prepared for losing everything on the drive from time to time until the drive fails completely. You must use at least a 7200 RPM drive with a large buffer and preferably a 10,000 RPM drive. again this is at best a short term solution which invites disaster and if you don't have your raw footage backed up someplace your just asking for a nightmare.

Problem with battery for MacBook Pro 2007

I have a problem with battery that was replaced during video card service 1.5 years ago
Battery health was around 80% and it stopped to work, I continued to use notebook with power cable and after week the battery become like this!
spoke with person in Apple store and got answer that it is not covered by Apple and I will need to buy another new battery.
For me it looks like manufacturing problem and I'm not expecting that after 1 year my battery will die like this! Thanks that it didn't explode!
What I should do in such case?

Thanks for your reply!
All my battery story is ending with bad taste...
I always relied on quality of the Apple products, it brought me to change all computers and phones to Apple brand. I was ready to pay extra for their products...
This battery has an Apple brand on it and I'm expecting that Apple will take some responsibility for it.
First battery on my MacBook Pro 2007 worked without any problem for 4 years, then it was replaced by Apple service tech person for unknown reason. This "new" battery failed just after ending of 1 year warranty coverage and even deformed in such scarry way. And now I don't have any option to ask if there is possibility that I'm experience a manufacturing defect! And I know that it is possible, internet is full of negative comments for these batteries!
Now I'm asking myself again, if it worst to buy Apple products? Are these products have proper quality?

What is a good solid state hard drive for a Macbook Pro (2007 model)?

What is a good solid state hard drive for a Macbook Pro (2007 model)? I imagine they're still expensive, but I'm curious which would be good picks if I were to go for it.

I am using the Corsair P256 (256 GB) SSD. It is actually a Samsung drive. It works well, but will only give you part of the speed advantage due to the fact that the MBP from 2007 only has a 1.5 GB/s interface, while newer MBPs have a 3.0 GB/s interface.
Impact on battery run time seems to only be an increase of 15-20%.
Boot time on my MBP is 40 seconds to login prompt. System seems very responsive.

Macbook pro 2007

I have an older macbook pro 2007 and imac intel 2006 model. What if any issues should I be aware of if I upgrade to Lion and what will not work with my computers. So far, I have read that my Microsoft office 2004 will not work and possibly my wireless HP printer that is at least 4 years old.

Any PowerPC apps will not work. Open System Profiler, select Applications from the Software section. Look for PowerPC in the Kind column.
Additionally, check for other software compatibilities here: http://roaringapps.com/apps:table
For Printer compatibility, check here: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3669

Formatting Macbook Pro 2007-2008

Hello,
I am tring to format my macbook pro 2007-2008 (the black one) and i did all the setps but now i have to re-install osx lion but when i go to sign in with my apple id it says i need to use an apple id that already baught lion any advice on how to do this.

You will need to get, if don't have one, a Snow Leopard DVD:
Upgrading to Snow Leopard
You can purchase Snow Leopard through the Apple Store: Mac OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard - Apple Store (U.S.). The price is $19.99 plus tax. You will be sent physical media by mail after placing your order.
After you install Snow Leopard you will have to download and install the Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1 to update Snow Leopard to 10.6.8 and give you access to the App Store. Access to the App Store enables you to download Mountain Lion if your computer meets the requirements.
     Snow Leopard General Requirements
       1. Mac computer with an Intel processor
       2. 1GB of memory
       3. 5GB of available disk space
       4. DVD drive for installation
       5. Some features require a compatible Internet service provider;
           fees may apply.
       6. Some features require Apple’s iCloud services; fees and
           terms apply.
Do the following to install:
Clean Install of Snow Leopard
Be sure to make a backup first because the following procedure will erase
the drive and everything on it.
     1. Boot the computer using the Snow Leopard Installer Disc or the Disc 1 that came
         with your computer. Insert the disc into the optical drive and restart the computer.
         After the chime press and hold down the "C" key. Release the key when you see
         a small spinning gear appear below the dark gray Apple logo.
     2. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue
         button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu.
         After DU loads select the hard drive entry from the left side list (mfgr.'s ID and drive
         size.) Click on the Partition tab in the DU main window. Set the number of
         partitions to one (1) from the Partitions drop down menu, click on Options button
         and select GUID, click on OK, then set the format type to MacOS Extended
         (Journaled, if supported), then click on the Apply button.
     3. When the formatting has completed quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed
         with the OS X installation and follow the directions included with the installer.
     4. When the installation has completed your computer will Restart into the Setup
         Assistant. Be sure you configure your initial admin account with the exact same
         username and password that you used on your old drive. After you finish Setup
         Assistant will complete the installation after which you will be running a fresh
         install of OS X. You can now begin the update process by opening Software
         Update and installing all recommended updates to bring your installation current.
Download and install Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.
You can then upgrade further depending upon the model you have:
Upgrading from Snow Leopard to Lion or Mavericks
To upgrade to Mavericks you must have Snow Leopard 10.6.8, Lion, or Mountain Lion installed. Purchase and download Mavericks (Free) from the App Store. Sign in using your Apple ID. The file is quite large, over 5 GBs, so allow some time to download. It would be preferable to use Ethernet because it is nearly four times faster than wireless.
     OS X Mavericks- System Requirements
       Macs that can be upgraded to OS X Mavericks
         1. iMac (Mid 2007 or newer) — Model Identifier 7,1 or later
         2. MacBook (Late 2008 Aluminum, or Early 2009 or newer) —
             Model Identifier 5,1 or later
         3. MacBook Pro (Mid/Late 2007 or newer) — Model Identifier 3,1 or later
         4. MacBook Air (Late 2008 or newer) — Model Identifier 2,1 or later
         5. Mac mini (Early 2009 or newer) — Model Identifier 3,1 or later
         6. Mac Pro (Early 2008 or newer) — Model Identifier 3,1 or later
         7. Xserve (Early 2009) — Model Identifier 3,1 or later
To find the model identifier open System Profiler in the Utilities folder. It's displayed in the panel on the right.
Are my applications compatible?
         See App Compatibility Table — RoaringApps.
Upgrading to Lion
If your computer does not meet the requirements to install Mavericks, it may still meet the requirements to install Lion.
You can purchase Lion by contacting Customer Service: Contacting Apple for support and service - this includes international calling numbers. The cost is $19.99 (as it was before) plus tax. It's a download. You will get an email containing a redemption code that you then use at the Mac App Store to download Lion. Save a copy of that installer to your Downloads folder because the installer deletes itself at the end of the installation.
     Lion System Requirements
       1. Mac computer with an Intel Core 2 Duo, Core i3, Core i5, Core i7,
           or Xeon processor
       2. 2GB of memory
       3. OS X v10.6.6 or later (v10.6.8 recommended)
       4. 7GB of available space
       5. Some features require an Apple ID; terms apply.

Macbook Pro 2007 - Do I need original disks to install OS or can I install 10.6 dmg from USB?

Hi,
I recently bought a Macbook Pro 2007 and admittedly coming from Windows I am a relative novice with Macs. So, I made a purchase without realizing the important role the original OS disks play
I checked the OS and it says it is running OS X 10.5.8. I had a go at installing a different OS on a partition, but got an error message saying: "Filesystem verify or repair failed".
So, not being all that familiar with Macs, how do I go about installing a new OS? I am pretty clueless with that stuff on the Mac. Do I need to have the original OS disks in order to install a more recent OS? Or can I use the 10.6 dmg file that I have to install from a USB?
If I were to purchase a more recent OS (than the one that came originally with the Mac), would I be able to install that? In all cases I do not need to back up any of the existing data.
Any feedback would be much appreciated.
Thank

If you want to erase the computer's hard drive to rid it of the previous owner's leavings (always a good idea with a used computer), and then install Snow Leopard, that should all go without a hitch. The present Leopard installation will be wiped along with everything else. But the iLife applications that were preinstalled on the machine at the factory and included on the discs that were originally shipped with it are not part of the OS and won't be included in the Snow Leopard installation. You'll need to purchase and reinstall those separately, and you can do so either by buying an iLife '11 installer DVD from an Apple Store, or by buying the individual iLife apps that you want from the Mac App Store. You'll have access to the App Store after applying the free OS updates to the final version of Snow Leopard, v. 10.6.8.
Once you can use the App Store, you'll also have the option of downloading the upgrade to OSX Lion, if your computer meets its system requirements.

Replacing Display housing for Early 2008 Macbook pro. older housing ok?

Hi guys! i have the newest Penryn Early 2008 Macbook pro 2.6 and have had an accident with the aluminum of the display housing. I am currently trying to find a compatible case to replace it with. I cant seem to find spare display housing that are made particularly for the new macbook pros for some reason =(
I've heard that there are different moulds of the Display housing since there are 3 different manufacturer for the LCD screen? (LG, SAMSUNG,CHIMEI)
Would the display casings of the older Intel Macbook pro work as long as I match the manufacturer? (e.g. if i have the display casing from a samsung early 2008 macbook pro, would this be compatible with the 2006 or 2007 samsung display housing?)
i have found a case for an older samsung http://www.welovemacs.com/9227221.html and chimei here
http://www.welovemacs.com/9227351.html
Please help me out if you have any idea! thanks in advance =)
Message was edited by: wcngu1
Message was edited by: wcngu1

There is a service that I have yet to try but it looks pretty reliable and they service macs in virtually every way possible. Go to macservice.com and just follow the steps and choose what you want to repair. For MacBook pro you an get the display housing replaced for about $200, I know that is a bit steep but it's the easiest way to get it repaired. If you do use it let me know how you liked it.
Message was edited by: CaptainBump

Is an anti-virus needed for a new macbook pro?

Is an anti-virus needed for a new macbook pro with retina display?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

After upgrading macbook pro from mountain lion to mavericks computer performance slowdown

after upgrading macbook pro from mountain lion to mavericks computer performance slowdown

Fixing a Mavericks Installation Problem
How to manage a failed OS X Mavericks installation | MacFixIt - CNET Reviews.
Try these in order:
1. a. Resetting your Mac's PRAM and NVRAM
    b. Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
2. Restart the computer in Safe Mode, then restart again, normally. If this doesn't help, then:
     Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the
     COMMAND and R keys until the Utilities menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and
     after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears.
     Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
3. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu. Select Restart from the Apple menu.
4. Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion, Mavericks: Reboot from the Recovery HD. Select Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion, Mavericks from the Utilities menu, and click on the Continue button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible because it is three times faster than wireless.

Hi, i got Macbook Pro 2007, OS X 10.5.8, I would like to update my system, which one I should choose? tks

hi, i got Macbook Pro 2007, OS X 10.5.8, I would like to update my system, which one I should choose? tks

Mountain Lion is the current version of the latest OS, with Mavericks coming this fall.
However, I would suggest that you simply upgrade to Snow Leopard -> http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC573/mac-os-x-106-snow-leopard. It's a very good, very fast OS and, best of all, it can still run those PPC apps that you may be using.
My 2¢...
Clinton

Upgrade MacBook Pro 2011 Mac OS X 10.6.8 to Mountain Lion

Can I Upgrade MacBook Pro from Mac OS X 10.6.8 to Mountain Lion?

Your Mac must be one of the following models:
iMac (Mid 2007 or newer)
MacBook (Late 2008 Aluminum, or Early 2009 or newer)
MacBook Pro (Mid/Late 2007 or newer)
MacBook Air (Late 2008 or newer)
Mac mini (Early 2009 or newer)
Mac Pro (Early 2008 or newer)
Xserve (Early 2009)
If you are running Lion, you can find out if your current Mac qualifies by clicking the Apple icon at the top left of your screen, choosing About This Mac, then clicking More Info.

I have a MacBook Pro 2007 and I installed Mac OS 10.6 but I lost power in the process and now the mac doesn't recognize my hard drive

I have a MacBook Pro 2007 and I installed Mac OS 10.6 but I lost power in the process and now the mac doesn't recognize my hard drive, how can I fix this

I've tried it but since I'm using a USB disk drive it keeps freezing up or showing you a folder blinking folder with a question mark. (?). When I start the mac up I hold the control button until the Mac OS install disk shows up. My hard drive doesn't show up anymore. Is there any other button I have to hold down to bring a different menu up. I have also tried to boot up holding control and C and nothing happens. Thanks for the help so far

MacBook Pro 2007 battery not recognized, not charging but working

I recently bought a new battery for my MacBook Pro 2007. As said in the title, it seems to work alright, but it's not recognized by the computer (X in the battery icon), and I don't think it's charging.
I tried to reset the SMC, no change. Unfortunately, I don't have any other computer to test my battery and my powercord on, to see if it's coming from either one of them. And I don't have an Apple Store around.
Do you have any suggestions ?

MacBook, MacBook Pro, MacBook Air: Battery not recognized after being fully drained

Top right hand of task bar icons keep disappearing and coming back. I cannot click on any of them as they just go. Also I cannot take screenshots any more. Macbook pro 2007 OSX Snow Leopard

Top right hand of task bar icons keep disappearing and coming back. I cannot click on any of them as they just go. Also I cannot take screenshots any more. Macbook pro 2007 OSX Snow Leopard. Anybody any idea what is occurring?

These Steps should resolve your issue
Step by Step to fix your Mac
If you don't have a backup of your data off the machine
Most commonly used backup methods
If you can't boot the machine and need to get data off it
Create a data recovery/undelete external boot drive
Your options for data recovery
My computer is dead, is my personal data lost?
Secure data removal
How do I securely delete data from the machine?
More:
https://discussions.apple.com/community/notebooks/macbook_pro?view=documents#/

Guidance for HDD upgrade MacBook Pro 2007

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