H67MA-E35 USB Problem

I recently built a new system consisting of the following:
MSI H67MA-E35
Intel i5 2500k
geforce gtx 460
2x2gb of cosair DDr3 1333MHz ram
64 bit Windows 7
everything was going fine (games were working well, and no crashes) until i plugged in one of my external USB hard drives, the computer immediately rebooted and would not stop bleeping (constantly) until i unplugged the drive, it would then reboot normally. after updating all of my drivers to the latest ones and flashing the bios to the latest version the bleeping only happens if the drive is plugged in while it is booting up, when the drives are plugged in while windows is running windows says that the device connot be installed.
The USB hard drives are working fine in the 3 other computers i tried them in, also my 1gig pendrive also causes the same problem. But my USB mouse and keyboard work find and surprisingly my phone when running in USB mode (acts like a 8gig pendrive) works fine :s this problem has me stumped as i cant think of anything else to try.

tried both i get the same problem, however i did just realise the USB 3.0 ports don't seem to work, i only have 1.0 and 2.0 devices but aren't they meant to be backwards compatible?
Edit: it would seem the USB 3.0 ports do work, just not for my harddrives they don't even recognise a USB device has been plugged in with them:(
Also my USB pendrive now works fine, no idea what i did if anything but i am hoping the others just start working

Similar Messages

H67MA-E35 (B3) - Freeze during every other boot with USB IR receiver plugged in.

Hi, I have an HTPC with an MSI H67MA-E35 (B3) motherboard. I also have a Hama VRC-1100 remote (Microsoft Media Center compatible), which has its own USB infrared receiver. When it's plugged in and I turn on the PC, it won't boot. It gets to the Windows boot screen and freezes before the logo itself starts to form. I have to do a hard reset, then it boots fine. If I reboot the PC, I get the same problem and have to hard reset again.
The IR receiver has the latest drivers and I've tried plugging it into different ports to no avail. I've also tried changing the BIOS settings to resume using OS instead of the BIOS, but then the remote cannot wake the PC up.

Apologies, the MSI Live Update tool says I have an MS-7680 motherboard with a B.90 BIOS. A scan for updates shows no new BIOS versions. Here are the rest of my specs:
Intel Celeron G530 (Sandy Bridge S1155)
MSI H67MA-E35 (B3)
4 GB of Kingston DDR3 1333 MHz RAM (2 sticks, running at 1066 MHz)
nVidia GT 430 with 1 GB VRAM (Asus ENGT430 DC SL/DI/1GD3, fanless)
40 GB Intel 320 Series SSD
Western Digital Green 1.5 TB HDD (WD15EARS)
Samsung BD-RE (SH-B123L/BSBP)
Antec EarthWatts EA-380D PSU
BlackGold DVB-S2/T2 Tuner (BGT3630)
Windows 7 Professional x64

Post Problems with H67MA-E35 (B3)

Hi maybe somebody can help me with this.
I have a H67MA-E35 (B3) and start to face problems with post, no beeps no monitor signal nothing... the only way is let the PC disconected for a couple of hours or even a day and the mobo start normally but when i try to reset or turn off,,,, the motherboard dont start again no beeps or monitor signal.
I tried to update drivers and bios version but nothing helps i still having the same problem.... any ideas? i am getting crazy please help!!

Quote from: xmad on 01-August-12, 01:42:01
>>Posting Guide<<
We are going to need more information on what components are in your system.
Also, clarify does the system crash while under load or just not start?
My system components are:
CPU i3 core 3.1 ghz
HD Seagate ST500DM002 500GB SATA
MEMORY KINGSTON KVR1066D3N7K2 2GB
PSU 500W
Bios updated to latest version via LiveUpdate
Running W7 32 bits
My system don't crash under load, just dint start after reset o turn off. To start again i have to unplug the AC cable and try to start after 2 hours or more.
Tell me if you need more information.
Thanks

H67MA-E35 (B3) HDMI and DVI-D no output

Just did a new build consisting of:
Mobo H67MA-E35 B3
CPU Intel i5-2500 3.3 Ghz
Mem 8GB DDR3 1333MHz
Win7 64bit
I am not getting an output signal from either the HDMI or the DVI-D. The VGA works fine.
I flashed the Mobo BIOS to E7680IMS v11.6 and installed the newest driver for the graphics on the CPU to version 8.15.10.2361
In the BIOS I have the graphics set to:
Initiate Graphics Adapter (IGD)
Integrated graphics share memory (128)
DVMT memory (maximum)
IGD multi-monitor (enabled)
Any ideas on what to do next? Thank you

Glad you got your issue sorted out. I'm am a little confused with the explanation of your solution.
You monitor has only VGA and DVI inputs. Your mainboard has VGA, DVI, and HDMI. Correct so far?
You bought an HDMI to DVI cable, which solved your problem, but your problem was a faulty female DVI on the monitor?
How is this possible? The only way that cable would even fit is going HDMI on mainboard to DVI on monitor, but you stated the port didn't work.
Or was this all done with the new monitor after you found out the DVI port was broken on the old one?
Have you tried the old monitor on a different system to check if it's the DVI port?
The reason I ask all this is if I'm wondering if your issue was really a broken port on monitor, or the MSI display bug that is effecting so many core iX H and Z chipset boards.

H67MA-E35 (B3) emitting high-pitched whine/chirp

I am getting a high-pitched whine or chip coming from the bottom left area of the CPU/Heatsink. It isn't the fan, as I have stopped the fan and it still makes the noise. I was also able to correlate the vcore voltage with the noise. The noise is only present while the vcore is below 1.000v. After throttling over 1.000v it goes away. I am using a i5-2500k. I am not overclocked anything and made very few changes to the Bios (just boot order and things like that).
Is this a problem with the socket, northbridge, or some other part on the board? Or is this a problem with the power supply not supplying the right kind of voltage? Or is the computer throttling too low? Like how a car doesn't run properly if idling too low?
Thanks in advance,
m@
System Specs
VGA:onboard MB:MSI H67MA-E35 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel H67 Micro ATX OS:Win 7 64bitCPU:Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHzSound:onboardMemory:CORSAIR XMS3 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333PSU:OCZ Fatal1ty OCZ550FTY 550W ATX12V v2.2 HD:Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKS 500GB 7200 RPMCooling:retail with CPU

Quote from: dilburt on 21-March-11, 08:05:56
No, this is a very common issue with chokes since a choke is very similar to a buzzer or speaker coil so if it's a bit loose, it can vibrate and emit high-pitched sounds. It will not damage anything by itself so if you can get it to stop using settings that are otherwise safe then there is no need to worry about it.
- D
I believe this is more common with iron chokes. The ferrite chokes used on this motherboard are far less likely to buzz. I did look at the board photos and it looks like the CPU PSU is standard FET transistors. Hmmmm.

H67MA-E35 (B3): Using certain tuner cards causes freeze/BSOD

Hi, I have an issue with my HTPC that I've narrowed down to the motherboard. Certain TV tuner cards or combination of TV tuner cards don't work, by which I mean the PC freezes or BSODs when I try to use the tuners on those cards. Here's a list of the combinations I've tested along with their maximum current draw on the 3.3 V rail according to their user manuals:
BGT3630 = 1.8 W / 0.6 A = fine
BGT3600 = 4.0 W / 1.2 A = fine
BGT3600 + BGT3630 = 5.8 W / 1.8 A = broken
TBS6981 = 7.3 W / 2.2 A = broken
TBS6981 + BGT3630 = 9.1 W / 2.8 A = broken
As you can see there's a bit of a pattern here - as the 3.3 V rail current usage increases, things stop working (somewhere between 1.2 A and 1.8 A). I don't know if this is a pattern or just coincidence. Here's my specs:
MSI H67MA-E35 (B3)
Intel Celeron G530
4 GB 1066 MHz RAM (CMV4GX3M2A1333C9)
nVidia GT 430 (Asus passive)
Antec EA-380D Green
Intel 320 Series (40 GB)
SH-B123L/BSBP BD-ROM
GD04B Grandia Case
To narrow down the problem, I tried the tuner cards in my main desktop and they all work fine. I've also tried swapping over the PSU with from my file server (Huntkey Jumper 300G) and I get exactly the same problems. I have the latest drivers for everything including the tuner cards, plus the latest BIOS. I've also tried using both PCI-E 1x slots in different situations and clearing the CMOS; nothing helps. So I think that leaves me with one option: the motherboard.
Is this likely to be an incompatibility issue with the H67MA-E35 (B3) or a fault with my specific board?

Quote from: xmad on 23-July-12, 06:24:05
It seems thouse cards wont work @ 1x which is all you are getting with your VGA & 2 other pcie slots filled. I found several other people having trouble with those cards in 1x slots.
Hmm, where are you getting this information from? The pins on the tuners are only 1x and the user manual of the BGT36xx series states they will work in 1x/4x/16x slots. The MSI website just says this for the PCI-E slots on my motherboard:
• 1 PCI Express gen2 x16 slot
• 2 PCI Express gen2 x1 slots
• 1 PCI slot, support 3.3V/ 5V PCI bus Interface
I'm pretty sure that the two non-VGA slots are physically 1x so won't ever be 8x. Also, are you sure the "several other people" aren't just me on other forums cos that's what a quick google shows.
Quote from: xmad on 23-July-12, 06:24:05
To confirm, remove the vga and use onboard, put the tuner cards in the top 2 slots and test. I believe that should be 16x and 8x (although i'm not sure about the specifics on your board in regards to the total number of lanes.) or at worst 8x /8x.
I'll give it a go some time this week. I'll do a full backup beforehand and restore after testing because driver conflicts could cause problems, plus whenever I put in the BGT3630 alongside the BGT3600, it detects all the tuners as "new" so I have reconfigure my software, MediaPortal, each time.
By the way, I really appreciate your help here. So far no-one else has any idea what is going on!

Help!! MSI H67MA-E35 (B3) Beep at startup

Hi every one.. I just got a new PC.. Here goes my config :
Spec :
Intel Core i5 2500
MSI H67MA-E35 (B3)
Corsair 1333MHz CL9 4GB
Fsp saga II 500w
NZXT Gamma
BenQ G2220HD
Logitech MMKB+Optical
Got an issue now.. At the system startup i get 2 short beep 1 normal beep when connected to VGA port and 4-5 short beep and 1 normal beep when connected to DVI port.. But every thing is running fine after that.. Is there something to be worried here?? When i googled about it, many with this mobo had this problem... during the beep, i get 99, A4 on the bottom right corner.. guess its error code..
Plz help me to solve this problem..
Thank You
Regards,
Navin

Quote from: ptsai83 on 06-July-11, 02:27:55
Do you mean ripping off Buz1 from the motherboard? the buzzer is physically attached to the mobo.
Quote from: ptsai83 on 06-July-11, 02:27:55
Do you mean ripping off Buz1 from the motherboard?
Yes, normally its removable
Quote from: ptsai83 on 06-July-11, 02:27:55
the buzzer is physically attached to the mobo.
Just checked and yes seems for your board is different, its build-in instead:
In such case: Place a small piece of scotch tape over the speaker hole[over the top of the buzzer/speaker]
EDIT:
Here is better image:

MSI H67MA-E35-B3 & some ram questions

Hi, I'm still here!
I recently bought a MSI H67MA-E35-B3 to build a fanless miniPC for testing hardware (fans, ssd, sound card),
but I have some doubts about ram:
I know thant this mobo support two unbuffered DIMM of 1.5 Volt DDR3 1066/1333 DRAM, 16GB Max..
well, can I use a CORSAIR Vengeance WhitePC3-12800 (1600MHz) — 1.35V 8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memory Kit (CML8GX3M2A1600C9W)?
that is; can the card bring down (during the star-up bios) the ram fron 1600Mhz to 1333Mhz which is the maximum rate allowable by MSI?
ddr3 must be unbufferd (not registered), but can they be ECC...is this correct?

Quote from: Bernhard on 03-September-11, 21:33:06
My suggestion is that you stick to standard 1,5V modules.
You can also ask MSI technical if the 1,35V modules are at all supported by the BIOS. >>How to contact MSI.<<
Check if your BIOS DRAM voltage range even allows setting a voltage of 1,35V.
Normally if the RAM SPD profiles are standard, the BIOS will default to 1333.
MSI H67MA-E35-B3 can support 1.35vram!!!
I try it with ddr3 g.skill 1333 eco 1.35vram (from my other 775 system with MSI P45 Diamond ), and they worked great!
Quote from: HU16E on 04-September-11, 02:30:27
Try not to confuse 'standard' with 'rating'. The Corsairs you have are 'rated' 1600, but most likely are overclocked, in this case undervolted, (undertimed for 1600 speed) 1333 chips. I checked the Corsair Website, & the RAM you have purchased does have SPD programming to default to DDR3 1333, 9 9 9 24. The difference is they have a 1.35v's. Again, Sandy Bridge is designed for DRAM V. 1.50v's + or - 0.075v's. That is why I recommended the other Corsair kit. I am pretty sure the RAM you currently have will properly default to the 1333 & 9 9 9 24, but the 1.35v's setting may cause a problem. As Bernhard has mentioned, the system may not be able to lower the DRAM V. to 1.35v's, I have never tried it to find out. The other scenario is the DRAM V. will default to 1.50v's at startup & work fine. Then, manual reduction of the DRAM V. could be attempted.
I've not bought the corsair ram ..
If the 1600 ddr3 worked under at 1333 could be that they would not work at 1.35volt, but at 1.5volt standard value

USB problems since EFI firmware update 2.6

My MBA has been suffering USB problems since this update.
I have an IOGear USB 3 GUH374 hub. I connect my iPad mini and USB 3 disk to it.
Since the update, the iPad has stopped charging through the hub. Now, I can't find the power specs of the hub, so I don't know that it should work, but it was working fine. Now, the iPad says "not charging".
The USB disk has spontaneously disconnected a few times, with the system reporting that it was improperly disconnected. One time, the disk was corrupted.
This could be a coincidence, so I've contacted IOGear. But, I'm also having new, different, sleep problems with the MBA and Mountain Lion.
==Leonard

Sitongia
This is a user community, it is not Apple.
If you wish to thank Apple, here is the feedback link for iPad.
http://www.apple.com/feedback/ipad.html

MAC PRO USB Problem - Traced to bad Apple Keyboard Extension Cable

I found a fix to a problem synching to my itunes Library on my early 2008 MAC PRO. The Apple supplied USB extension cable for the keyboard was defective.
The symptoms were hangs in itunes and finder synching to iPods and transferring data to USB hard drives. The iPods and hard drives never lost power and no errors/log entries were made. The transfers simply stalled and would not continue. itunes and finder would hang until the drive or ipod was removed. These devices were installed directly to USB ports on the MAC PRO. No other USB devices were connected except for the aluminum keyboard and mighty mouse; the mouse was connected to the keyboard. The keyboard was connected using the USB extension cable that shipped with the MAC PRO.
Hardware diagnostics were all clear. The keyboard and mouse never had any connection problems. Only itunes syncs and hard drive copies would fail; these would occur at random times. I had an open ticket with Apple to have the logic board replaced as it was diagnosed to be a hardware/USB problem.
Removal or replacement of the extension cable on the keyboard (which was connected to a different USB port and NOT in the USB chain with the ipod and hard drives) permanently fixed the problem. I cancelled the Apple HW replacement.
I have noted several posts with others having problems with USB ports and devices. I wonder if Apple has an unknown problem with bad keyboard extension cables.

I think you may be onto something there. I'm just a few weeks into my second Mac Pro and again it's having the same USB problems which led Apple to give me a replacement machine previously. I went through several weeks of considerable testing with Apple Engineers prior to that - an Apple Care application to collect data from my machine, Apple Developer USB prober and two clean installs. The latest machine initially showed no sign of the problem then it started again - 2 iPods "can not be read or written to" part way through sync, Aperture quitting importing from USB SD card reader, USB drives dismounting etc. So I pulled out the Aluminium keyboard and, lo and behold, the iPods managed to get all the way through synching without errors. I really like the alu keyboard so it's a huge shame that it might be the cause of all my problems so far - and the Mac Pro is otherwise a beautiful computer.
But is this really a hardware problem of the internal USB cards and power management or supply?

H67MA-E35 (b3) and DDR3 1333 mem

I have a pair of Gskill Ripjaws 1600 2x2g 1.5v and they work fine but I ordered some Gskill Sniper 1333 2x4g 1.5v on accident because I forgot what was in my comp plus the H67MA E35 (b3) states that it works with 1333 memory but it freezes my comp randomly (no less than once a day plus it corrupts files).
I reset everything and reinstalled an OS and it would still freeze my comp so I put my 1600's back in and all is fine but I was wondering before I send the 1333's back could this be bad ram or incompatibility or do I need to set something certain in the bios referring to the 1333 memory to make them work ? thanks.

Trouble is encountered when just mixing two kits of the same part number in far too many cases due to differences in batch production or different makers chips on them. Mixing two complete different part number kits is pretty much a recipe for failure.

H67ma-e35 won't overclock

I have a h67ma-e35 mainboard with a I5-2500K CPU and I wan't to overclock, but it seems to be impossible to do so on this mainboard.
Whenever I put the cpu on a higher mulitplyer and reboot it always reverts back to the old multiplyer and thereby undoing the overclock, this happens with the bios and msi control center.
Does anyone here have a idea how I could get some overclocking going on my system without buying a new mainboard....

Quote from: Bernhard on 16-November-12, 18:39:21
Oh no, they are not, as you can OC the GPU and the BCLK if you so wish.
First peruse the facts before making wild comments that are untruthful. http://www.anandtech.com/show/4830/intels-ivy-bridge-architecture-exposed
It does help to gather technical facts before purchasing HW that one expects to support the intended outcome.
No H67 board out there supports "K" edition CPU multiplier overclocking. Sorry mate. Cry on Intel's shoulder.
Never buy a Yaris and then tell the manufacturer that he forgot to give you the Lexus luxuries.
OK, just gotten the box of the mainboard, let me qoute from the box:
OC Genie is an auto-overclocking technology for any type of user. Just enable the OC Genie function and the CPU memory, and iGPU will be automatically increased for top performance!
Benefits:
Auto detect and overclock CPU, memory, and iGPU in 1 second
Unlock CPU Ratio and overclock to 4.2GHz
Unleashed 36% iGPU increase
Tell me how this is not a lie, overclock to 4.2 GHz...

My iPad2 went blank. Troubleshooter says driver software MTP USB problem, what do I need to do?

My iPad2 went blank. Troubleshooter says driver software MTP USB problem, what do I need to do?

iOS: Resolving update and restore alert messages
For error -50: See error 13 and 14:
Error 13 and 14: These errors are typically resolved by performing one or more of the steps listed below:
Perform USB isolation troubleshooting, including trying a different USB port directly on the computer. See the advanced steps below for USB troubleshooting.
Put a USB 2.0 hub between the device and the computer.
Try a different USB 30-pin dock-connector cable.
Eliminate third-party security software conflicts.
There may be third-party software installed that modifies your default packet size in Windows by inserting one or more TcpWindowSize entries into your registry. Your default packet size being set incorrectly can cause this error. Contact the manufacturer of the software that installed the packet-size modification for assistance. Or, follow this article by Microsoft: How to reset Internet Protocol (TCP/IP) to reset the packet size back to the default for Windows.
Connect your computer directly to your Internet source, bypassing any routers, hubs, or switches. You may need to restart your computer and modem to get online.
Try to restore from another known-good computer and network.

MS-6390: Return Of The USB Problem!

Almost a year ago I posted a thread regarding a USB problem in which after a few hours runtime, the USB ports stop working. Having reinstalled Windows, I followed the original thread to fix the problem again but this time, it hasn't work. The old thread for reference is; https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=49727.0
but I shall try and include everything important here so it shouldn't be needed.
Firstly the nature of the problem;
Any new device plugged into them is not recognisied and Windows advises that it is the device that is malfunctioning.
Restarting the computer will eliminate the problem, however upon rebooting, the computer tends to get stuck at what may be the memory count. If left for 10 minutes, the memory amount comes up and the computer boots normally. This is circumvented by temporarily (one second) removing power to the power supply by pulling the plug or flicking the switch at the back.
[It may or may not be relevant that the HDD activity indicator is lit for approximately 30 seconds of this 10 minute period]
Upon switching the computer on again, the computer boots up normally and the USB ports continue to function for another variable period of time.
This problem occurs if there are no devices plugged into the USB, any single device (printer, gamepad, mobile phone) or any combination.
It should also be noted that if the computer crashes due to any of many unrelated reasons after this problem has arisen, and I use the reset button to make it reboot, the 10 minute reboot problem occurs again but appears differently on screen in that it actually says 'memory check' or words to that effect with a space where the normally RAM amount goes, a '+' and another empty space where the memory reserved for onboard graphics normally goes (i.e. memory check: + )
I've tried uninstalling the drivers and reinstalling those downloaded from VIAs website for my chipset.
My USB ports are set not to power down to save power in device manager.
The multi-card reader (plugged directly into the motherboard) also stops functioning when the USB ports go down - power light stays on, activity light stops flashing (occasionally power light turns off). Unplugging it from the motherboard does not resolve the issue.
I want to resolve this issue so the computer is trouble-free when I give it my mum to learn from.
Comp. specs in signature. Thanks in advance.

I don't know how to dig deeper... Soon this computer will only be using a single 80 gig HD, and I'll remove the fan controller (it'll be mums computer). I'll then be able to try just using sp1a.
This PSU I'm using is reviewed here with a several others. (the model number is the same, but the one tested doesn't appear to be dual rail - they actually state the number slightly incorrectly, but it's correct in the picture of the label they show.
I think it performed quite well, being one of only two that were able to keep producing (just) over 1 v at 100% load, whilst most others just plumetted. A significant but probably not damaging drop to 4.87v on the 5v rail and again 3.26 on the 3.3v rail all at 100% load (which you're never supposed to due to the PSU anyway). It got a recommended award since apparently it doesn't have many features but I don't think I'm in need of any features it lacks.
Furthermore - at the back it has a control for fan speed. Currently set on Auto, it maintains the same fan speeds (audiability) as on Low - thus I conclude it has headroom to push itself if necessary (in which case the fans would spin faster).
Apart from someone who said they're "cheapo", I havn't yet found any negative comments regarding Jeantech PSUs.

Shuffle USB Problem - Some Observations

I decided to start a new thread with some additional observations I have made regarding the Shuffle and USB problems. Some of this already appeared as a reply to the "ipod usb" thread. Anyway recapping from my previous post:
When plugged into the USB port of my machine, the front LEDs (above the control area) flash the following:
GREEN and ORANGE (YELLOW?) flash together for between 1/4 and 1/2 second. This is followed by the GREEN LED alone for about 1.5 seconds. 3 seconds of nothing, then it repeats. The battery condition LED on the back (below the ON/OFF switch blinks ORANGE for about 1/4 second every 4 seconds.
Plugging the Shuffle into another computer (a laptop), the Shuffle is recognized and the LEDs behave normally.
Now the weird thing is that the Shuffle had worked on the machine where it is now not recognized. In fact the iTunes 7.0.1 diagnostics show the serial number of the Shuffle as the last iPod connected. Also, the USB on the iTunes machine is a USB 1.0 and on the laptop is USB 2.0.
NEW OBSERVATIONS:
My 20GB Click Wheel iPod works fine under 7.0.1. The fact that it works leads me to believe the USB port and power are fine. If it the USB port can drive a hard disk iPod, it better be able to drive a Shuffle!
I loaded up the version of iTunes that came with the Shuffle on another Windows 2000 box I have. The Shuffle was recognized and did a RESTORE on it. Windows even recognized it. The version of Windows IS NOT as currently patched as the computer on which I have iTunes 7.0.1 installed.
I uninstalled iTunes 7.0.1 and installed version 6.0. Aside from 6.o not starting because some file got converted, Win2000 still did not recognize the Shuffle.
So here are my thoughts:
1) A recent Windows 2000 patch causes Shuffles to be ignored by the OS. There is a comment about a problem like this with XP, but I was not able to find anything Win2000 related. The machine I am having problems with is up to dat with regard to patches.
2) If V7.0.01 is the problem, even uninstalling it and reinstalling an old version of iTunes leaves some part of the driver or something that still causes problems.
3) The Phillips Pronto remote software I installed somehow causes a bad interaction with only the Shuffle. Remember, my click wheel iPod still works!
Right now I am leaning towards an issue specific to Windows2000 and the Shuffle. Maybe a conspiracy to get us all to buy Zunes?
If anyone has additional observations or suggestions on how to fix the problem, I (and a bunch of other people) would really like to hear from you.
Thanks!
Don

Okay, I got focused on the fact that other machines
would recognize my Shuffle, but not my main machine.
It dawned on me that the Windows Registry stores
information about USB devices whether or not they
are plugged in, so I snooped around and found the
entries for the iPod.
I did some searches and found a reference to this MS
KB article:
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/315539/en-us
Basically describes how to show the "hidden" (i.e.
removed USB) devices. Went into the USB section and
deleted the 2 entries I had for iPods (my Shuffle and
20GB click wheel).
Plugged my Shuffle in and BINGO! Windows recognized
the Shuffle and iTunes 7.0.1 recognized the Shuffle!
In fact, as I write this post, my poor little
Shuffle is having my jogging play list reinstalled
since it got wacked by the 'restore' on the other
machine.
Bottom line, it looks like I managed to solve my
green and orange LEDs of death problem!
Your mileage may vary!
Good luck!
Don
Yes, great, this is a fix for this problem. Thank you very much.
Athlon Windows XP

H67MA-E35 USB Problem

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