Hard Drive speed issue

I recently deleted many of my itunes videos from my hard drive. after importing some new ones when i try to play them it takes several second (and colour spin wheel) before it starts playing unlike befor where they started playing immediately. any one know why?
is my disk fragmented? what program should i use to defragment it?

franchou:
Welcome to Apple Discussions.
comment effacer les données sur mon disque pour gagner de l'espace?
Dr. Smoke's FAQ Freeing space on your Mac OS X startup disk has helpful suggestions on how to remove unwanted/unneeded items from the Hard Disk Drive to free up space. There are other things one could do to free up space. However, if you find that you are running out of space on your internal Hard Disk Drive, it is an indication that you need a larger capacity drive to accommodate your computing style.
Please do post back with further questions or comments.
cornelius

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12" 1.33Ghz iBook Hard Drive speed?

hey all,
i'm curious to know if any of you have ended up w/ 5400rpm drives in your 12" 1.33Ghz iBooks. i know of a couple ppl on a diff forum who got stock iBooks and for whatever reason they got 5400rpm 40GB drives. offhand i know there's very little price difference between the 4200 and 5400 drives, so maybe apple is just streamlining their supply line? i'm just wondering if this drive speed is common for the latest revision of the 12" iBooks even tho it isn't something they advertise on the iBook page.
thanks

The hard drive is not a user-installable part. You would void your warranty or AppleCare Protection Plan to open the iBook and install a drive yourself. Since you can't buy a bare hard drive from Apple, they won't install one you've purchased somewhere else. An Apple Authorized Service Provider could install a new hard drive for you, though, without voiding your warranty.
Apple buys hard drives on the open market. If the 4,200RPM drives become constrained, they may find some 5,400RPM drives for a good price and install those for a while. Since the hard drive speed is not specified at the online Apple store, the included component can vary.
I would ask you why, exactly, you would consider the increased cost to upgrade a hard drive like this? I can edit DV and author DVDs with the 80GB 4,200RPM drive in my 1GHz G4 PowerBook. I've NEVER had an issue with my hard drive doing these kinds of operations. You should have a very good user experience with your 4,200RPM hard drive.
-Doug

Hard Drive Encryption Issue

This is in regard to hard drive encryption issues in my USB Hard drive. I have Windows 7. I was encrypting my USB hard drive and
was able to enter a password. However, I did not receive any prompt to save the Bitlocker recovery key. During encryption process, I received an error. The encryption process was unsuccessful. However, now when I plug-in the hard drive, I receive the
following message on the status bar:
Application and Device Control rule Block writing to removable media. Unencrypted drive found (No_Encrypted_Found) has blocked edpa.exe trying to access Volume
{e3901a75-f1ff-11e1-817c-806e6f6e6963 alpha-numeric number appearing here}
When I try to open the drive, it asks for a password. When I enter the password, I am receiving the following error message:
Bitlocker Drive Encryption failed to recover from an abruptly terminated conversion. This could be due to either all conversion logs being corrupted or the media
being write-protected.
I have read that Bitlocker repair tool can help resolve this issue.
However, I just have the password that I had set to encrypt the drive and Bitlocker recovery key identification. Can this help to get access to my hard drive data using the Bitlocker tool.

Checked this ?
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-security/bitlocker-drive-encryption-failed-to-recover-from/232e812b-4f7a-e011-9b4b-68b599b31bf5
Arnav Sharma | http://arnavsharma.net/ Please remember to click “Mark as Answer” on the post that helps you, and to click “Unmark as Answer” if a marked post does not actually answer your question. This can be beneficial to other community members reading
the thread.

How do you confirm the hard drive speed

I am trying to confirm my hard drive speed. I have looked at "about this mac" but can't seem to find it. New MBP 15 inch running Lion

found it.
About this mac, more info, system report, serial-ATA, then scroll down to the nformation about the apple HDD, and there it is under "rotational rate"

Hard drive space issues

I have some hard drive space issues.
At present I only have about 13GB remaining on my 40GB hard drive, which is not necessarily an issue except that I have almost nothing installed/saved on my machine. I have 1 CD ripped to iTunes, no photos in the iPhoto library. I did a quick look with Disk Inventory X and found that the "Printer" folder is 3.2GB - can I get rid of some/all of that as I don't intend to print from the machine?
What is filling my disk? As far as I can tell the OS should only take up around 3 GB so where did the other 24GB go? Where, oh where?

Yes, you can delete printer drivers you don't use. OS X takes up far more than 3 GBs. A pretty minimal installation is nearly 7 GBs. Your computer also may have came with pre-bundled software applications (not standard OS X applications.) OS X will also use potentially 10 GBs of space on a temporary basis for temporary files, log files, and cache files. So for a 40 GB drive it's not too surprising to have only 13 GBs free. Perhaps it's time for you to put in a larger hard drive. You can purchase hard drives at:
MacSales.com
Buy.com
NewEgg.com
The Mini uses a notebook drive. If you have a pre-2006 (Intel) model it uses an ATA drive. After that year they use SATA drives.

Hard drive syncing issues "!" HEEEELLLLPPPP!

Hard Drive syncing issues "!" HEEEELLLLPPPP!
I use an external hard drive to store all my music. I sync the hard drive with Itunes because my library is way too big to store on my computer. About every 8 month or so Itunes displays "!" next to all my songs because it can't seem to locate them. When prompted to locate file, it can but this needs to be done one by one. I typically delete my entire library and start over. This is a complete nightmare because I have to build all my files and play list again. Can anyone HELP me out of this frustration??? Thank you in advance!

Does the exHD have a permanent drive letter assigned to it?
Windows can assign different drive letters to digital camera cards, USB sticks, etc if you don't specifically assign them drive letter.
That is a common cause of the !
One day the music is on an exHD named F: and then windows reassigns it to G:

How does hard drive speed impact iMovie performance

I'm thinking of getting one of the newly released 15" MacBook pro laptops. For hard drive choices I can get 750GB @ 5400 RPM or 500GB @ 7200 RPM (SSD Drives are too expensive for me). How does hard drive speed impact iMovie performance?

Most of my videos are .mov. Currently I'm using a ContourGPS and it saves the files as .mov H264 and iMovie converts it. It think it's uncompressing the file using Apple Intermediate codec, the extension is still .mov after the iMovie conversion.

Hard Drive Speed Difference Between FireWire 800 and Internal Drive

Right now I have my entire 1.5 TB Lightroom photo library on an external drive connected to my new Mac Pro via FireWire 800. Will I experience dramatic or even noticeable speed improvements if I move this drive to one of the internal SATA hard drive bays in my Mac Pro?
I would likely buy a new drive and SuperDuper the external to this new drive I put in the Mac Pro.
Thanks,
Matt

SATA II 3Gb is only the controller bus and has almost nothing to do with actual individual drive speed. Confusing the bus interface with hard drive speeds is not a clear way to compare.
Just pull the drive out of the FW case is all you probably need to do. Actual FW800 is less than 80MB/sec and more like 72-75MB/sec - which is as slow as your hdd gets from slow inner tracks.
Other than green, most 1.5TB drives average minimum 75MB/sec to max 115 with average in mid-90s. And the first 1/2 of a drive is where best performance comes from.
The size of the data and media library, amont of free space, all play a role.
I think FW should be left to backups, an alternate boot volume, off line data.
If it was Aperture library, but otherwise SSD is not realistic or viable. Nobody uses RAM disks as they are inefficient.
I still find 10K VelociRaptor ($279 / 600GB) fast, smoother, more responsive, great for system and data drives, even if they are only 135MB/sec, or about what some of your 2TB drives can offer.
QUICK TAKES - A striped pair of Velociraptor 600G 10K HDDs matches the speed of one SSD. For less that the price of one 256G SSD, you can buy two 10K 600G Velociraptor HDDs. If you stripe them (RAID 0), you get the same sustained transfer speed as the SSD. http://www.barefeats.com/quick.html
If you are not already using all the internal drive bays, just nice to have them handy before going external. Also take a look at two other articles on Barefeats:
THINK INSIDE THE BOX: Internal Storage Innovations for the Mac ProOctober 6th, 2010
EXTERNAL STORAGE INNOVATIONS for Mac Pros -- (Added results for ATTO R680 SAS RAID adapter.)

Hard Drive Upgrade Issue TX1320us

Hi all, I'm trying to get some feedback on a hard drive issue that I have. I recently have been experiencing what I deemed "failing hard drive" so I took the plunge and bought a new one.
The problem I am having is that the BIOS is not recognizing the hard drive. Here is a comparison of what I bought compared to what I had stock in the laptop.
New - Seagate Momentus 2.5 ST90250N1A1A 250gb 3.0gb/s
Old - Western Digital 2.5 WD2500BEVS-60UST0 250gb 1.5gb/s
Bios is F.20
The only difference I see is that the SATA speeds are different. My only argument is that I would think that 3.0gb/s will downgrade to 1.5gb/s just like RAM could do.

There are two sleds -- one for 2008 and previous, and a different one for 2009 and later. Compare the two and see if someone gave you the wrong series sled.
Some drives have additional mounting holes, but if that were the problem, you would have already figured that out.

Hard drive temp issue

Hi, I didn't see a forum here dealing with basic hardware issues (would it be better posted at "power mac" or "leopard"?) so I figure unix geeks might have an answer as well as anyone...
I have a 128G seagate 3.5in hard drive as the main drive now in this mac. Using iStat Nano widget, I see a reading -- sometimes -- for the "hard drive temp". Other times, I get a "N/A" readout.
What is being read? Can iStat nano really read a hard drive temp if the seagate has that facility? And if so, why do I sometimes get no readout? It seems pretty random to me, I really don't have "some things on" only when there's no readout. Thank you.

Hi
I presume that memory modules have not the same bus speed and that is reason for overheating. Please be careful about that and use just compatible parts.
Bye

Hard drive speed for DVCPro HD

Hello,
So I've read that DVC Pro HD 1080i60 has a data rate of 14.39 MBytes/sec. I just want to make sure that my computer can handle this speed as I've mostly cut HDV and DV on it to date. Can anyone tell me. Here's what I use:
I've got two internal hard drives (not my boot drive) that I use for my capture scratch. One is a Maxtor Drive with 233.76 GB and according to some online research, appears to have an External Data Transfer Rate of 133 MBps.
The other drive I use is a Seagate 120 GB with an Internal Data Transfer Rate of 683 Mbps and an External Data Transfer Rate of 100 MBps.
Now I assume since these data rates are so much higher than 14.39, that I shouldn't have any trouble cutting something in DVC PRo HD. But can anyone confirm this? I only have about 1/2 hour of footage, so space shouldn't be an issue.
Also, I run a G4 dual 1.25 computer with 1.75 GB Ram.
The computer tends to drop frames a lot when playing back miniDV footage, and had a heck of a time deailng with HDV's mpeg compression playback, though someone just told me that I could have been dropping frames because my windows often overlap. I just hope that the computer won't have massive troubles cutting a higher quality media. Any advice?
Thanks for your help.
G4 mirrored doors 1.75 GB Ram

Now that we seem to have reached the end of the thread, if you believe individual posts have either been 'helpful' or or have 'solved' your issue, please mark them as such.
This does two things, it directs people searching the thread to the specific post(s) that are most valuable is addressing the issue and it helps us poor unpaid volunteers gain some small measure of respectability in the Apple world. (I'm saving my Apple CrackerJack coupons for the FCP Secret Decoder Ring.)
Thanks for taking the time.
x

External Hard Drive - speed caps at 1MB/sec

From my computer I cannot get write speeds of more than 1MB a second to my external Lacie Drive. I can grab information off the External Drive fine, but cannot write to it faster than 1MB a second. This situation started after I crashed while writing to it.
1. Plugging into another computer, everything works fine and can write fast to the external.
2. Writing to the drive from a file on a network works fine. (pulling a file from my office network and writing to the External Drive through the computer with issues works)
3. Tried different cables. This issue is with USB, Firewire 400 and 800.
4. Reset the PRAM on my computer, still nothing.
My setup is:
- G5 / 4 x 2.5 GHz PowerPC
- Mac OS 10.4.11 (cannot upgrade higher due to certain software requirements i'm running)
- 1TB LaCie BIG DISK Extreme (USB2, Firewire 400, Firewire 800)
Any ideas? Much appreciated.

I've e-mailed LaCie tech support and am waiting for a response. Since other hard-drives work with this machine I feel like there is some connection between this computer and this drive which won't let me manually write to it. I've transfered a huge file using the Terminal to the external drive and it went fine (at normal speeds). Very odd.

Primary hard drive upgrade issues

All this great software has finally taken its toll on the 80Gb of hard drive space that this computer came with (Just for the record, I use the primary drive for the OS and applications only -- I store all of my data on other drives).
So, I need to upgrade the primary hard drive so I can install even more software and do even more amazing things . I'm going to upgrade my primary drive to a 120gb.
I've got Carbon Copy Cloner, but it hasn't solved a couple of issues:
First off, when I make the dupe, it doesn't maintain the original disk's Tech Tool Pro eDrive partition -- I need this on my new drive just in case. Now, you'll say "Why don't you just uninstall Tech Tool Pro and then re-install it when you set up your new drive?" Well, that's because Micromat tracks how many installs you make with any particular activation code, and I'd have to purchase another license to do another install -- and I really don't want to have to lay out $$ when there's really no clear reason.
Secondly, the CCC'd dupe doesn't play well with Classic. (Yeah, I'm a hold-out who still has a couple of OS9 oldies-but-goodies that I won't give up). The CCC'd dupe drive doesn't contain the OS9 drivers that I need to be able to successfully run Classic.
So, my overall question is this -- how do I properly set up my new 120gb drive and then properly transfer a complete image of my old 80gb drive onto it so I maintain all my functionality and all my software applications, but wind up with more space to play?
Thanks!

I solved my own problem! Here's how we did it:
First, we booted up using the Tech Tool Pro disk and removed the eDrive partition from the original boot drive.
Next, we took the new target drive (we went with a 250gb rather than a 120 -- more is always better, no?) and formatted it using Disk Utility from the OSX Panther install disk. This allowed us to put in the OS9 drivers on the disk (didn't find the option for this with Tiger's DU).
Then we used CCC to clone the old drive over. Then I did a little bit of physical re-arranging so that the new drive was in the master spot on the primary IDE chain in the box.
Finally, we booted up again using the TTP disk and had TTP create a new eDrive on the 250gb disk.
After all that, everything works just fine! No problems running apps in Classic, and no need to re-install TTP and spend more money on another license!

Hard drive startup issues after extended sleep/shutdown

Hello,
When I put my iMac to sleep or shut it off for an extended period of time (overnight) and then try to wake it up or turn it on, the iMac makes a strange clicking noise and freezes.
After manually shutting down and restarting it one or more times it will startup fine.
Putting to sleep/shutting down the computer for short periods of time doesn't cause any problems.
So when this first started happening I though "Uh oh, hard drives going to that great recycling depot in the sky."
But, Disk Utility, Apple's hardware test, and TechTool Pro 4 all find nothing wrong with my system.
Is there any chance this could not be an hard drive issue? Or should I just get the drive replaced and stop trying to diagnose the problem?

You've covered the biggies already - I'd recommend a trip to the Apple store or at least a call to AppleCare. Back in the late 80's and early 90's 'stiction' was a serious problem with hard drives. A hard drive motor has very low torque; it can spin fast but it doesn't have much oomph and the lubricant used back then could harden overnight so that when the computer was booted up the drive's motor couldn't spin up the platters. Improvements in lubricants have made stiction less common today but it hasn't been eradicated and it is one of the things that might be affecting your drive. At any rate, since I can't put your computer on my bench, the best call I can make is for you to make a call. Sorry.

External hard drive corruption issues

Hey folks. Really not sure what the best place would be for my question, but I'll try here.
I have a 4 year old LaCie external HD with a 160GB capacity. It stores my iPhoto and iTunes libraries for my iBook, along with a few other bits and pieces.
About a year ago, I noticed some of my files were corrupted and couldn't be played. Whenever I tried to open one of those files, the drive would start knocking and whatever program was trying to access the file would need to be Force Quit. Hoping to solve the issue, I moved the data,(or course, getting stuck on corrupted files along the way) erased and reformatted the drive and moved the data back. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the problem.
I have the data backed up on another, newer external drive, but I'm wondering if there's a way to isolate the bad sectors in the old drive so they can't be written to anymore? Should I use Disk Utility and repair the disk?
I know the drive's old and could fail at any time, but I'd like to keep using it as long as possible. Also, when it does finally fail, could I just purchase another hard drive and place it in the enclosure? I suppose I should also note that the FireWire 400 ports don't work on the enclosure. I'm sure it's not a defect, as I accidentally dropped the drive shortly after I'd purchased it. That fall is probably the cause of the corruptions as well =/
The USB port works fine and I haven't been able to test the FireWire 800.
Thanks for any advice y'all have!
~Lyssa

Your drive sounds very sick. I am not sure how likely it is but I would be concerned about your OS becoming seriously corrupted and possibly unbootable as a result of continuing to use this bad external drive.
It would be better if you could test it connected to a non-critical computer.
Do you know the drive specification? - not the make of the box.
Many drives self-repair and also communicate likely future difficulties to the OS but eventually you come to the end of this process.
I am not sure if disk utilities any longer map out bad sectors. Years ago I used a mounting screw that was too long and damaged the magnetic surface. In those days you could manually map out the bad sectors. I then put partitions each side of the mapped out sectors and continued to use the drive for many years.
More recently I had a drive with an intermittent power connection. However even after repairing this and reformatting the drive was never very reliable.
Good drives are relatively inexpensive. You could try a new drive in your box. I always advise buying server quality drives normally identified by a 5 year guarantee. I prefer Western Digital but Seagate also make reliable drives.

Hard Drive speed issue

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