Hard drive stress test?

Does anyone know of a hard drive stress test for Mac? I've been all over google and discussions but haven't found anything useful... Things that are suggested elsewhere that I don't want:
-Zipping/Unzipping files, copying 3GB file etc
-Benchmarks like Xbench
-Opening 50 applications at once etc
-Apple Hardware Test
Thanks!

Have you looked at Intech Speed Tools ?

Similar Messages

10.5.8 Both hard drives OK, tested - will not boot past startup screen

Okay, I have an early 2008 MacPro, and everything has been running fine, but I was trying to search for something in Finder, and it wouldn't show up, so I checked my other hard drive's permission options - it displayed "Custom" for all users, when I know I had them all set to "Read & Write" previously, so i changed my main user's (on my newer HD on 10.5.8) permission to Read & Write on the original HD with 10.6.8, so I could search its contents, then these error messages poppped up, everytime i hit OK, a new one popped up immediately in its place, with some "Apple AUD" OR "HD" messages (can't remember the exact messsages), so I restarted my computer and now I cannot get past the apple logo screen.
- Attempted selecting both hard drives as startup discs and still hangs at the white apple logo screen.
- I tried booting into Safe Mode and it loads the status bar, and when it's done loading, it simply goes back to the spinning gear.
- Tried booting from my 10.5.8 installation disc and it works, both of my HD's tested "OK" when I verified them.
- Tried resetting PRAM, and even reset SMC, and the problem persists.
One last note: the original HD that came with my Mac Pro, which has 10.6.8 on it as of last year, has a tiny lock icon on the left of the little hard drive graphic.
I'm stressed because I use LOGIC a lot, and I have all of my music projects on these hard drives, and over a million files between both of them. I'd pull my hair out, if I hadn't just shaved my head for summer
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

Your hard drives may be OK, but the installed systems are not. You need to reinstall OS X on your startup volume. Doing this with Leopard requires your Leopard DVD:
How to Perform an Archive and Install
An Archive and Install will NOT erase your hard drive, but you must have sufficient free space for a second OS X installation which could be from 3-9 GBs depending upon the version of OS X and selected installation options. The free space requirement is over and above normal free space requirements which should be at least 6-10 GBs. Read all the linked references carefully before proceeding.
1. Be sure to use Disk Utility first to repair the disk before performing the Archive and Install.
Repairing the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger, Leopard or Snow Leopard.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer. Now restart normally.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Do not proceed with an Archive and Install if DU reports errors it cannot fix. In that case use Disk Warrior and/or TechTool Pro to repair the hard drive. If neither can repair the drive, then you will have to erase the drive and reinstall from scratch.
3. Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When you reach the screen to select a destination drive click once on the destination drive then click on the Option button. Select the Archive and Install option. You have an option to preserve users and network preferences. Only select this option if you are sure you have no corrupted files in your user accounts. Otherwise leave this option unchecked. Click on the OK button and continue with the OS X Installation.
4. Upon completion of the Archive and Install you will have a Previous System Folder in the root directory. You should retain the PSF until you are sure you do not need to manually transfer any items from the PSF to your newly installed system.
5. After moving any items you want to keep from the PSF you should delete it. You can back it up if you prefer, but you must delete it from the hard drive.
6. You can now download a Combo Updater directly from Apple's download site to update your new system to the desired version as well as install any security or other updates. You can also do this using Software Update.

Hard drive & memory test results different in 2 programs??

I want to replace the right parts. Seems like both the hard drive and some of the memory need to be replaced.
Am worried that I'll be wasting money and effort if neither fix these problems: Been having problems with computer crashing & Kernal Panics.
Per discussions, had me try original memory, which worked fine and passed the tests I used (Memtest & Checkmate). Then one by one tested each of the cards, Samsung (original - good) and the 2 I bought - A-Tech - Nanya (good) but Kingston crashed.
On both program tests, at different times, they have indicated that the hard drive is bad (bad blocks and/or should be replaced). But they don't test this way every time, why? Does good or bad memory effect the performance of the hard drive and possibly cause hard drive malfunctions?
Also, should I just buy same brand for all 16GBs? I've been looking into Crucial and OWC but the A-Tech brand I bought does have a lifetime warranty (Kingston didn't or at least it wasn't available through the seller, Amazon). Thanks. Charlotte

If I were you I would start with getting all good memory installed. Bad memory can affect a disk test. And, you cannot replace the hard drive yourself. You need to have an Apple retailer work on the computer to replace a hard drive.

7200 vs 5400 Hard Drive Speed Tests?

Does anyone know of anywhere online where they do a speed test of 7200 vs 5400 laptop hard drives? I wonder how much (if any) of a difference there is. I will be doing graphics work but just wonder if there is much a performance increase between the 100GB 7200 drive and the 120GB 5400 drive. The extra 20GB of space would be nice to have, but if there is a big performance boost, I'd take the 7200 drive. The RAM on this laptop would be maxed out at 2GB as well.

I heard that the differences were pretty drastic. I would not hesitate, but then again it depends what you do with your computer. If it's just for iTunes and co.. might be better to get the extra GB's. If you're more into working, doing stuff as fast as possible, games and other heavy stuff go for the faster one.

USB-VXI re-enumeration when we switch hard drives betweens test systems.

We have a test system that uses a USB-VXI controller and has removable hard drives. When we move the removable hard drive between systems, we get another instance of the USB-VXI controller, and the test system cannot determine which enumerated instance is the correct one.
The hard-drives each have the same volume ID. The USB-VXI controllers each have a different identifier. We are using WIndows XP.

An option you could use is to save the Measurement & Automation (MAX) Configuration File for each setup. You could setup the system as desired on each computer and then when you switch the harddrive you Import that proper configuration file.
Please reference the following KnowledgeBase 3FII43MP: Export and Import Files in Measurement & Automation Explorer for more information. Please remember that you will need to clear out MAX, by deleting the previous VXI system, before setting up the current VXI System. This will ensure that you are saving the desired setup.
Sarah S.
Applications Engineering
National Instruments

Please help me arrange my hard drive setup, testing out different Raid arrays.

Hi folks! If I could bother you for your time to help me figure out what the best options are for my computer setup that would be much appreciated!! I'm editing mostly RED footage so 5K and 4K files.
Here's what my computer build is right now:
Asus Rampage IV Extreme
i7-3930K CPU (OC'd to 4.4ghz)
64GB ram
GTX 680 video card (2GB model)
Windows 7 Pro
Mostly Premiere CS6 and After Effects
Here's the fun part and the part that I'm still baffled by regardless of how many videos and searches I've done online, what to do with my hard drives!?
Right now I have my Mobo setup in Raid mode with these plugged in to the motherboard;
2 x 250gb Samsung pro SSD's on 6gb/s ports (Raid 0) (Windows 7 OS)
2 x 300gb WD Velociraptors 3gb/s ports (Raid 0) (empty)
3 Ware 9750-8i Raid controller +
8 x 3TB Seagate Barracuda drives ready to rock and roll.
Now based on everything I've read, I'm leaning towards setting up 4 x 3TB drives in Raid0 for my footage (making constant backups with synctoy onto an external Drobo)
4 x 3TB drives in Raid0 for exporting footage. (with continuous backups)
That leaves me wondering where's the best place to setup Media cache, cache files and project files and anything else. Also I've left the OS pagefile on the SSD's but wondering if I should set that up somewhere else?
Using Crystal Disk mark, I'm getting these results so far:
OS on Samsung Pro SSD's in Raid0
The 4 x 3TB drives in various Raid setups:
Raid0
Raid5
Raid10
Velociraptors in Raid0
All this is due to many months of recent work on a computer build that would get bogged down and editing became painfully slow. I'm trying out a proper dedicated Raid card instead of just 2 drives in Raid0 off the motherboard hoping this will make a big difference.
Any expert advice on here would be greatly appreciated!!!!

Let's start with the easy part:
C: SSD for OS, programs & pagefile
D: 2 x Veliciraptor in raid0 for media cache and previews
With 8 disks available on the 3Ware controller you can go many different directions and they depend on your workflow. Let me give two extreme examples and then you may be pointed in the right correction for your editing practice.
Workflow consists of quick and dirty editing, usually one day or less and multiple export formats each day (example Vimeo, YouTube, BDR, DVD and web), or
Workflow consists of extensive editing, usually a week or longer and exports to a few formats at the end of the editing (example BDR and DVD only).
If your typical workflow looks like 1, your idea of two 4x raid0 arrays can work, because the load is rather nicely distributed over the two arrays. Of course the drawback is that there is no redundancy so you depend very much on the backups to your Drobo and restoring data after data loss can be time consuming, coming from the Drobo.
If your workflow looks more like 2, then you can consider one 7x raid5 array for projects and media and a single drive for exports. That means that your raid5 will be noticeably faster then either of the 4x raid0 arrays you considered and offer redundancy as well. As a rough rule of thumb, a 4x disk raid0 will be almost 4 times faster than a single disk, a 7x raid5 will be around 5 - 5.5 times faster than a single disk. You profit from the extra speed during the whole editing week or longer.
The export to a single disk may be somewhat slower, but how long does it take to write say 25 GB to a single disk? Around 160 seconds. If you use a hot swappable drive cage, you can even use multiple export disks, say one for Client A, another one for Client B, etc. In your initial idea of a 4x raid0 that time may be 40 seconds, so you gain around 2 minutes on the export, but lose that in the whole editing week.
Just my $ 0.02

Looking for Hard Drive performance test software...

Just looking for a good app to check hard drive performance/health
cheers

Disk Utility, which ships with the OS. Alternatively, DiskWarrior, TechTool Pro, and many others.

Hard drive failed test

Need direction on what I should do or go as, I still some warranty days left.Thinkvantage toolbox says backup data and replace drive.So far I have used restore ,with no luck an checkdisc did nothing. So, based on those 2 things ,whom do I call or give me directions on where to sent T510 laptop 32 bit ultimate.

http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/detail.page?DocID=HT036550
Here's your support phone number.
Dave
T430u, x301, x200T, x61T, x61, x32, x41T, x40, U160, ThinkPad Tablet 1838-22R, Z500 touch, Yoga Tab 2 Windows 8.1, Yoga Tablet 3 Pro
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HP Envy Hard Drive Imminent Failure message

I've been getting this error when I turn on my laptop. It reads "SMART Hard Drive detects imminent failure. To ensure no data loss, backup contents and contact HP"
I've run the Hard Drive Self Test and it has failed that along with most of the other tests on the list that pops up. My laptop still works fine but I was curious as to if I should get my hard drive replaced and how to go about doing that? My warranty expired at the end of December, though the first instance of this happened before December. I forgot about it since I usually never turn off my laptop.
I've been trying to find out if I could purchase an extended warrantee or another method to get it fixed and replaced through HP. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a HP Envy 14-1154ca Beats edition.

This is a warning message stating that the hard drive would die soon. Please the backup of all your personal data as the system is currently working fine. Refer the following weblink for more information:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00480479&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=en
You cannot buy an extended warranty when there is a hardware failure on the unit. I would recommend you just buy another hard drive and then think of buying an extended warranty from HP.
I am an HP employee.
Regards,
Vidya
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Can not shut down late 2011 MacBook Pro and turn it back on again without the hard drive disappearing?

Ok, I have searched for months for an answer to this question to no avail, probably because no one has experienced it before. I am hoping however that you guys can help me figure this one out cause it is driving me nuts! Also, I am not entirely sure what section of the support I should put this under so if I stick it in the wrong place, I apologize.
Right now my problem is very simple. When I turn off my laptop, and then try to turn it back on, my internal hard drive disappears... and I get the blinking folder with a question mark on it. I have figured out something interesting however. I have an install disk with Ubuntu Linux on it. If I boot into that first, then RESTART the laptop, not shut down and turn back on, it reads the internal hard drive just fine and I can boot as if there is nothing wrong.
Second part to the problem... If I allow the laptop in either OSX or Windows to go to sleep (aka shut off the hard drive but the computer remains on), when I attempt to wake it up, I am greeted with the usual log in screen of whichever OS I am in, but is frozen and after a few seconds goes black and restarts the computer to find that... Surprise! The hard drive is gone
I have tried every trick in the book that I can think of, but can not seem to come up with a solution to the problem... I know when the problem happened and if anyone thinks that that will help them figure this out I will type everything I did up till, including the crash that caused this, and my attempted fixes, but I have class right now so only if you guys want it I will type all that out.
What I am currently running is:
2011 MacBook Pro 13in screen
4Gb of Ram
1TB internal Hard Drive
OSX 10.11.whatever the newest update is... just updated the other day again.
Windows 8.1 on BootCamp 5 (yea I know its not supposed to work but it does) again, fully updated
Ubuntu 13.10 (I think? Doesn't really matter, its just an install disk I use to boot the computer)
If there is anything else that you guys need me to provide, I can, just simply ask. I can provide as much info as is necessary.

Sorry it took me so long to write back, But unfortunately this didn't help my issue.
My uncle and I did a lot of tests on this computer and have narrowed down the location of the problem a little bit.
We tried to first reset the SMC and the NVRAM as suggested, but the only thing that did was make the fans run on full tilt for the first session after restarting it for some reason. After that we tried re installing OSX over the OSX that was already on the system (not removing any of the files). This also didn't do anything but make refit stop working. Then we moved onto the next task at hand by removing the hard drive entirely and booting it as an external drive from one of the USB ports... as long as you booted it with the options key held down, it worked perfectly fine. Then we put an alternative hard drive into the computer and installed OSX on that. This time there was no trouble booting anything up. Everything seemed to work flawlessly. So we made a backup of my original drive (OSX, Windows, and all) onto an external hard drive and tested booting to it via USB. That again worked perfectly fine and booted right up with no problems. So after that we formatted the original hard drive and reinstated OSX. We then proceeded to transfer all the old files from the backup onto this new installation and LOW AND BEHOLD..... we were back to square one with it refusing to recognize the hard drive again.
So this basically told us that there appears to be something either wrong with the hard drive, or something got really screwed up in the software along the lines and by me copying all my old files back over, I just ended up bringing the screwed up file back over with it! (despite not copying over any settings of any kind) So I am still extremely confused as to what is going wrong... did some boot sector possibly get screwed up may be?

Hard Drive won't show up on MBP 2011 running Mavericks

My WD My Passport Edge 500GB hard drive has been working for the past 2 or so years i've had it, on all my devices including the telstra t-box, and when I go and upgrade my Snow Leopard (1.6.8) MacBook Pro 2011 to 10.9.3 Mavericks, the Hard Drive stops working, for some reason i can still use other hard drives/usbs (Tested external mouse, 1TB hard drive different brand and also 8GB USB i have). Looking at other forums i've tried looking at Disk Utility, It does not show there. However it DOES show in the System Information -> USB section. It doesn't show in finder or terminal (Using cd /volumes -> ls)
The Hard drive lights up as normal and i can still hear the faint whirring it always makes when i use it.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can assist me, i really need the data on this hard drive!

Smiggle04 wrote:
What do you mean install it in another enclosure?
All HDDs come in and are used in an enclosure or a 'case'. This a typical one:
if theres a way i can plug my hard drive into a windows computer and reformat it on there to the FAT32 thing an backup all the stuff to my second hard drive..is this an option??
If you wish to reformat a HDD, back it up (or clone it) first. FORMATTING A HDD WILL DELETE ALL DATA ON THE DRIVE!
Note that Fat32 has a 4GB file size limit. ExFAT may be a better option.
Ciao.

I can't access my external hard drive

I just reinstalled the OS. I'm using Mac OSX 10.5. Before the reinstallation I was able to access a firewire drive I use. After the installation, I am not. The drive is recognized though! It shows up but when I try to open it, it appears as though it is continuously trying to access the content and basically freezes my computer until I disconnect the drive (which I know I shouldn't do).
How do I resolve this?

One way to test is to Safe Boot from the HD, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, Test for problem in Safe Mode...
PS. Safe boot may stay on the gray radian for a long time, let it go, it's trying to repair the Hard Drive
Reboot, test again.
If it only does it in Regular Boot, then it could be some hardware problem like Video card, (Quartz is turned off in Safe Mode), or Airport in 10.4 & below, or 3rd party add-on, Check System Preferences>Accounts>Login Items window to see if it or something relevant is listed.
Check the System Preferences>Other Row, for 3rd party Pref Panes.

Help, I need to replace my hard drive in my hp pavilion a6863w how do i do this?

The hard drive surface test and seek test failed, A seagate 2TB SSHD. I want to install it and I am sure I can do it but I need to know if I should leave the bad drive in and just add this one, if I do this will I need any other cables, if so, I would rather just take out the old.
I have the recovery install discs that I made when I first bought it. I have used these b4 to reinstall.
I just need to know the steps if I add the 2nd drive or the steps (if I need a cable) to replace the old drive with the new drive. Would this drive be considered my boot drive? When I ask for the steps, I am more concerned with the turning off the computer and what things I need to unplugged, etc. Then once the new drive is in place, do I simply run the recovery discs or is there an easier way?
I tried to run a backup but it stopped and wouldn't let me. I have all my important things like photo's movies, etc already backed up.
hp pavilion model# a6863w. windows vista 64bit
This question was solved.
View Solution.

panjok2 wrote:
The hard drive surface test and seek test failed, A seagate 2TB SSHD. I want to install it and I am sure I can do it but I need to know if I should leave the bad drive in and just add this one, if I do this will I need any other cables, if so, I would rather just take out the old. Remove the old drive, replace it with the new one and use the recovery disk set. Choose factory image recovery.
I have the recovery install discs that I made when I first bought it. I have used these b4 to reinstall.
I just need to know the steps if I add the 2nd drive or the steps (if I need a cable) to replace the old drive with the new drive. Would this drive be considered my boot drive? When I ask for the steps, I am more concerned with the turning off the computer and what things I need to unplugged, etc. Then once the new drive is in place, do I simply run the recovery discs or is there an easier way? Put the new drive in the same place as the old one and use the same (data and power) cables that were connected to it.
I tried to run a backup but it stopped and wouldn't let me. I have all my important things like photo's movies, etc already backed up. If the drive has failed, then trying to backup anything from it is a waste of time since the hard disk controller has also failed.
hp pavilion model# a6863w. windows vista 64bit
How to replace a hard disk.
The video and images shoud help you.
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Mac Hard Drive Filling Up

Hi,
I noticed while trying to install software with BootCamp that I did not have enough space, when I had recenly taken 50 gigabytes of misc. files off of my hard drive. I went to "Get Info" on my Mac HD and noticed it filling up before my eyes. So, after using Disk Inventory X, I realized that the troublesome file was not yet large enough to see (And not filling up fast enough), so I took it to the Genius Bar. The reinstalled the software after doing a diagnosis on the disk image only to find a "Software Warning," and ended up having to give me a new Hard Drive under warranty. (I actually got a larger HD for free. Woohoo! (Different story)) Anyway, after restoring my computer with a recent BootCamp backup, the problem still persists, so it is obviouly an application or something that I had before. I am wondering if there is a way that I can see exactly what is causing this problem?
Thanks,
Jake

Hi Jake,
Likely a failing App or service...
Open Console in Applications>Utilities & see if there are any clues or repeating messages when this happens.
Or...
One way to test is to Safe Boot from the HD, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, Test for problem in Safe Mode...
PS. Safe boot may stay on the gray radian for a long time, let it go, it's trying to repair the Hard Drive
Reboot, test again.
If it only does it in Regular Boot, then it could be some hardware problem like Video card, (Quartz is turned off in Safe Mode), or Airport, or some USB or Firewire device, or 3rd party add-on, Check System Preferences>Accounts (Users & Groups in later OSX versions)>Login Items window to see if it or something relevant is listed. Or an errant process eating up RAM.
Check the System Preferences>Other Row, for 3rd party Pref Panes.
Also look in these if they exist, some are invisible...
/private/var/run/StartupItems
/Library/StartupItems
/System/Library/StartupItems
/System/Library/LaunchDaemons
/Library/LaunchDaemons

Can't get rid of items that are making hard drive sleepless

I have an Intel iMac with a dead internal drive. I'm now booting and running it off its backup clone drive, an external La Cie Firewire drive. But the drive is constantly cycling, spinning down and spinning up, even when all apps are closed and the iMac seems (and should be) asleep (if the internal drive was doing this and i couldn't hear it, no wonder it died).
I looked in Activity Monitor to see what it's up to when it's supposed to be asleep, and see some repeated entries from outdated stuff- Lexmark Network Services (from a printer i no longer have) and Palm Desktop Background, from a Palm program i haven't used since 2006 and thought was de-installed.
The thing is, i can't seem to get rid of them. It's difficult to pinpoint their exact source thru Spotlight (or Inspect in Activity Monitor), and when i throw what i can trace of them in the trash, i can't empty it, i get a message that says "USB Transport rsrc is in use".
How can i get rid of these items, which are obsolete and might be what is keeping the drive cycling?
I removed a bunch of unneeded items from Login Items, but Lexmark one isn't there. And what is "Transport Monitor" (shows in both Startup Items and Activity Monitor)? Can i delete it from Login items?
Energy Saver settings seem fine- it's set to sleep after 10 minutes of inactivity. It's just not going inactive.
Suggestions?
I'm having to shut the iMac down whenever i walk away from it to keep from hearing all that cycling from the drive (and wondering what it's doing to the drive).

One way to test is to Safe Boot from the HD, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, Test for action in Safe Mode, like if it still changes in 5-10 minutes...
PS. Safe boot may stay on the gray radian for a long time, let it go, it's trying to repair the Hard Drive
Reboot, test again.
If it only does it in Regular Boot, then it maybe some 3rd party add-on, Check System Preferences>Accounts>Login Items window to see if it or something relevant is listed. It also may be Video Card or Airport going bad.
Check the System Preferences>Other Row, for 3rd party Pref Panes.
Also look in these if they exist, some are invisible...
/private/var/run/StartupItems
/Library/StartupItems
/System/Library/StartupItems
/System/Library/LaunchDaemons
/Library/LaunchDaemons
Transport Monitor & Palm Desktop are related...
http://www.intuitive.com/blog/mysteriousapps_starting_in_mac_osx.html

Hard drive stress test?

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