Having trouble getting skin tones to print "accurately"

Question

Hello! This is my first post to a forum, but I am unhappy with the skintones of my portrait shots in the printed results and am driven to seek your collective help. I realize that an image on the monitor will never match exactly to the printed image because the media is entirely different. I am pleased with the image results for everything except the human skintones. Portrait shots can look great on the monitor, but the printed image always has a greenish cast. This happens when shooting outdoors in sunlight and on overcast days. No flash was used.
I am shooting RAW (uncompressed NEF), using Nikkor lenses on a D200. My printer is an EPSON Stylus Photo 2200. Mac Pro 2x2.66 GHz Dual-Core Intel Xeon processor. RadeonX1900 graphics card. Apple Cinema 24" Display calibrated with SpyderPRO. Epson Premium Glossy Photo paper. Aperture 1.5.3. Lately I have been using a 105mm, 2.8, VR Nikkor lens or the 17-55mm, 2.8 Nikkor lens. (I think I have all the right equipment, now if I could only fix the user!)
I notice that Aperture has default setting applied to my images in RAW Fine Tuning and the Boost is always set to 1.00. Chroma Blur Radius=2.00 and Auto Noise Redution is checked. Sharpening Intensity=0.5 and Edges-0.73.
My in camera white balance is set to full sun. Aperture white balance temparature comes in at 4860K.
What is the Boost and if I change it to 0.00, the skin tones are not as saturated and reddish in the display, but the printed image has a greenish cast. Should I be changing this value at all?
I see that other folks post fabulous portrait images on the web with lovely creamy skin tones, but I can never achieve that effect. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks in advance for any help you folks can send my way.

Answer 1

The Boost slider under the Raw Fine Tuning change the contrast of the image. I set it up to be 0.80 as default, sometimes I lower it even more. Then I use the controls under the exposure section to adjust the exposure and contrast. I finish it with the levels adjustments.
It's very easy to get reddish faces when the contrast is to high. If that's the case in the color adjustments I lower the saturation of the reds a little bit and move the slider of the hue a little bit to the right, usually a value of 2.0 is enough to make them more orangy.
It's crucial that you set up the white balance properly. A grey card is a great help to have a neutral tone in the image, then I usually go a bit warmer, around 200-300K more than neutral.