HD to SD not looking very good

I finally got the original HD tapes, captured them with Canon XH A1 (not my camcorder) as SD. The final DVD is very poor, "ghosting" with movements, etc. Just not clear and crisp looking. I have been reading the forum and will experiment with different codec settings. (If you can recommend the best one, that would save me some time). But, I am also wondering, would it work to capture it as HD, render that to an avi file and then import that into a SD project?
Also, while I have CS3 and CS2 on my computers, my client has only CS2 and has asked me to work on his computer...I am thinking CS3 is the way to go?

Hello Harm,
I'm trying to figure out the best way to edit record and edit in HD 16:9 format and then export in SD 4:3 format so I can use Encore to burn it to a DVD. So far the only way I have found to go from HD to SD is to create an NTSC Standard project into which I import the HD video. I really want to edit it as a HD project so I can also create a HD version of the video in 16:9 format and then somehow also create a Standard 4:3 DVD from the same editing session. I tried exporting the HD timeling to Encore but it did not crop the edges, instead it added black bars to the top and bottom of the frame. I tried exporting the video as an AVI file so I could quickly import it into a Standard NTSC 4:3 project and export it in a cropped 4:3 format, but 5 minutes of video created a 32Gb file. Do you have any suggestions?
Regards,
Mark Miller

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TV (video) output from new nano looks very good!

Just a comment for those who may be wondering how the video quality on the new iPod nano looks when output to a TV. I have one of the old iPod AV docks with the s-video port and the new nano seems to work fine with that combination (using a standard s-video cable between the dock and the TV). Thus far I'm really impressed with the video quality, I can't see a single problem, the color is good, the quality and sharpness is as good as I've seen from any iTunes Store content, and as far as I can tell the frame rate is fine (no stuttering, skipped frames, or problems with audio sync). I'm amazed that such high quality video can come from such a small device. If it continues to look this good (after viewing more content and after more testing) then I think Apple may have "hit one out of the park." This thing could turn out to be the most popular iPod yet (if you have any interested in video and still want a small device).

I just found out that the video out (TV) on the new nano supports video playlists so you can create playlists for back-to-back display on the TV. Not even the AppleTV will do that (even though the latter has been a highly requested feature for the AppleTV since day one). In fact, if you can do without the on-TV menus you may find that the nano is a better video output device than is the AppleTV (that is, the menus system on the nano doesn't appear on the TV output).
Also, I just competed a few hours of video playback to my big-screen TV from the nano and I'm still impressed. No video problems at all, looks very good considering the quality limitation from the content that is currently on the iTunes Store (limited to standard definition, no HD movies, HD TV, or HD music videos as yet).

New iPad 2 does not look as good as old ipad?

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Am I nuts or does anyone else feel this way?

I googled iPad 2 yellow display and it looks like some people have a yellow spot near the edge due to the glue not sufficiently drying. Mine is different; the whole screen is on the yellow side, so white isn't white but a bit yellow. If I tilt it and look at an angle, then white becomes white.
It is apparent you look at it side by side with an iPad 1, but maybe if I didn't have one to compare it, I wouldn't know any differently. I don't know if this is normal for an iPad 2.
I do notice the screen feels different. The iPad screen feels hard, like glass. The iPad 2 screen is softer, more like plastic, which I like, except for the yellow thing.

Our Mouse is not tracking very good

Our mouse for our Imac is not tracking very good. It reacts very slowly and you have to lift the mouse up multiple times to get from one corner of the screen to another. We have increased the tracking speed, but it seems that this has not worked yet....
Any other ideas?

Is this an Apple Mouse?
Could be many things, we should start with this...
"Try Disk Utility
1. Insert the Mac OS X Install disc, then restart the computer while holding the C key.
2. When your computer finishes starting up from the disc, choose Disk Utility from the Installer menu at top of the screen. (In Mac OS X 10.4 or later, you must select your language first.)
*Important: Do not click Continue in the first screen of the Installer. If you do, you must restart from the disc again to access Disk Utility.*
3. Click the First Aid tab.
4. Select your Mac OS X volume.
5. Click Repair Disk, (not Repair Permissions). Disk Utility checks and repairs the disk."
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214
Then try a Safe Boot, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, reboot when it completes.
(Safe boot may stay on the gray radian for a long time, let it go, it's trying to repair the Hard Drive.)
If perchance you can't find your install Disc, at least try it from the Safe Boot part onward.
If 10.7.0 or later...
Bootup holding CMD+r, or the Option/alt key to boot from the Restore partition & use Disk Utility from there to Repair the Disk, then Repair Permissions.
One way to test is to Safe Boot from the HD, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, Test for problem in Safe Mode...
PS. Safe boot may stay on the gray radian for a long time, let it go, it's trying to repair the Hard Drive
Reboot, test again.
If it only does it in Regular Boot, then it could be some hardware problem like Video card, (Quartz is turned off in Safe Mode), or Airport, or some USB or Firewire device, or 3rd party add-on, Check System Preferences>Accounts>Login Items window to see if it or something relevant is listed.
Check the System Preferences>Other Row, for 3rd party Pref Panes.
Also look in these if they exist, some are invisible...
/private/var/run/StartupItems
/Library/StartupItems
/System/Library/StartupItems
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/Library/LaunchDaemons

When i am editing in finalcut, my image does not look particularly good. do i need to export it at the end in order to see it in full high definition? thx

when i am editing in finalcut, my image does not look particularly good. do i need to export it at the end in order to see it in full high definition? thx

Open FCP X Preferences / Playback / Use Original... Media / Playback Quality...
How does the exported movie-file looks like...?
Regards
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IWeb and Aperture photos not looking that good?

hey guys can any of you tell me why
when i done edit my photos in aperture and loads them over in iweb they are not looking that good as in Aperture why is that?
can any help me here?

Opps. I thought I was in the iPhoto forum. Getting old(er).
Have you done this before and had better results?
Are you dragging them onto an iWeb page or into an iWeb album or photo page?
Do you have iWeb's preferences set to optimize photos upon import?
Click to view full size

Since upgrade iphone 4 Version 7.0.0,I noticed my WIFI is not conecting very good.It stays in 3G.How can I fix?Thanks Dale

Since upgrade iphone 4 Version 7.0.0,I noticed my WIFI is not conecting very good.It stays in 3G.How can I fix?Thanks

Hello there, Birdman8.
The following Knowledge Base article provides some great troubleshooting steps for resolving your issue:
iOS: Troubleshooting Wi-Fi networks and connections
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1398
Thanks for reaching out to Apple Support Communities.
Cheers,
Pedro.

When I first am looking at my newly uploaded photos in "Library", a box appears near the bottom of the photo that says "loading" (the photo looks good to me), then it is more "faded" and does not look as good. Is there some setting on that I am not aware

When I am first looking at my newly uploaded photos in "Library," a box appears near the bottom of the photo that says "Loading". While it is loading, I usually think the photo looks "good". After the photo is done loading, it looks more washed out. Is there some sort of setting that I might have on (or that I need to turn on) so that this does not happen. I have Lr4. Thanks.

Hi Tracy,
There used to be a way to see if poster was new to the forum.., anyway - welcome to the forum.
As I was alluding to, biggest differences in initial display are due to:
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So, choose a matching camera calibration profile (whether that's an option or not depends on your camera model - they're available for many but not all models) if you prefer one of them over "Adobe Standard" (the factory default profile).
Also, your camera covers for underexposure due to non-optimal auto-exposure/contrast setting, Lightroom doesn't, so your options are:
* turn it off in camera.
* learn to compensate manually (or automatically via a plugin) in Lightroom.
Of course, in addition to preferred defaults (alt-click big "reset" button in dev module), come up with some presets which are appropriate for your druthers and type of photography.. e.g. these will compensate Nikon ADL settings:
http://www.robcole.com/LrForumSupport/ADL%20Compensations%20%282012%29.zip
Cheers,
Rob

Image resizing not looking as good as MS Paint?

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Help?

I can't figure out why, but for some reason Paint makes my resized images look better than Photoshop when saved. I've messed around with Photoshop's Image Size/Resampler, but none of the options I have used seem beat the quality I am seeing from Paint. I think this has something to do with the low file size Paint is saving it as. I've tried replicating the ~60KB size in PS but can't seem to save the example image anything below 105KB in PNG.
Help?

MacBook Pro 13 on LG Monitor Not Looking Right

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Yes, you're right, and I read your post carelessly. In clamshell mode you should be able to select the 1600 x 9000 native (maximum) resolution of your external display. If you've selected that, then your display is as sharp as it can be. It may just not look very good because by today's standards, that's a low resolution for a 20" display. At $150 plus or minus $10 brand new, you can't expect the 2040T to compare very well with higher-quality monitors.
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Motion Project does not look good in FCP

I am using FCP 5.0 and Motion2. I made a lower third title graphic in Motion. When I embed the clips back into FCP they look pixalated. They do not look as good as they did originally. Does anyone have a solution?

Hey,
Here's the result from last night. The quicktime file is good. It seems that Motion projects in FCP, even from rendered QT files, don't display their true image.
My output this morning for my project is flawless. Even though the timeline looks horrible.
The reason this seems to come up in this forum again and again, is probably that Boris 3D, FCP's titles, even LiveType, all display their true clean rendered image in FCP. Motion, however, doesn't seem to do that.
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Whew!
Gord
G5 Dual 2.3Ghz Power PC 3GB RAM, 2x120HDD, & 15" Powerbook Mac OS X (10.4.6)

When ever I launch my safari, it will stay on for about a minute and then quits on me. It has a "safari quit unexpectedly" dialog box with a bunch of codes that I can send a report to apple. im not very good with this kind of thing, plz help!

Im not very good at troubleshooting, but I have played around with the system preferences. My airport connection is fine as well as the ethernet. Firewall says its not connected, (im not sure if that matters or not?)
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Could be many things, we should start with this...
"Try Disk Utility
1. Insert the Mac OS X Install disc, then restart the computer while holding the C key.
2. When your computer finishes starting up from the disc, choose Disk Utility from the Installer menu at the top of the screen. (In Mac OS X 10.4 or later, you must select your language first.)
Important: Do not click Continue in the first screen of the Installer. If you do, you must restart from the disc again to access Disk Utility.
3. Click the First Aid tab.
4. Select your Mac OS X volume.
5. Click Repair. Disk Utility checks and repairs the disk."
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214
Then try a Safe Boot, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, reboot when it completes.
(Safe boot may stay on the gray radian for a long time, let it go, it's trying to repair the Hard Drive.)
Then GULP, check for this...
Flashback - Detect and remove the uprising Mac OS X Trojan...
http://www.mac-and-i.net/2012/04/flashback-detect-and-remove-uprising.html
In order to avoid detection, the installer will first look for the presence of some antivirus tools and other utilities that might be present on a power user's system, which according to F-Secure include the following:
/Library/Little Snitch
/Developer/Applications/Xcode.app/Contents/MacOS/Xcode
/Applications/VirusBarrier X6.app
/Applications/iAntiVirus/iAntiVirus.app
/Applications/avast!.app
/Applications/ClamXav.app
/Applications/HTTPScoop.app
/Applications/Packet Peeper.app
If these tools are found, then the malware deletes itself in an attempt to prevent detection by those who have the means and capability to do so. Many malware programs use this behavior, as was seen in others such as the Tsunami malware bot.
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-57410096-263/how-to-remove-the-flashback-ma lware-from-os-x/
http://x704.net/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5844&p=70660#p70660
The most current flashback removal instructions are F-Secure's Trojan-Downloader:OSX/Flashback.K.

HT4009 Not very user friendly! Where is the place to report a problem!? I have been billed for an in-app purchase but not had the goods - I received an error message telling my I hadn't been charged at the time and now it is on my bill! What can I do?

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You can try contact iTunes support via this page : http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/contact/ - click on Contact iTunes Store Support on the right-hand side of the page, then Purchases, Billing & Redemption

I updated my iPad to 7.0.6 but I find the new look very irritating. In mail I can no longer swipe left on a message to erase it. The font in calendar is so small I can't read my appointments. I happen to like the yellow paper that was in notes.

I updated my iPad to 7.0.6 but I find the new look very irritating. In mail I can no longer swipe left on a message to erase it. The font in calendar is so small I can't read my appointments. I happen to like the yellow paper that was in notes. Can any of these preferences be adjusted?

You have to swipe from right to left to delete mail.
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A very good friend of mine dropped her iphone into water and now it is not working.Her husband recently passed away and text messages from him and from well wishers after his decease are feared lost. Is there any way to retrieve them?

A very good friend of mine dropped her iphone into water and now it is not working.Her husband recently passed away and text messages from him and from well wishers after his decease are feared lost. Is there any way to retrieve them?
I suggested contacting Compub in Nassau St as the info is priceless and worth the trouble of trying to regain?
Any thoughts? The poor lady is very distress

If she has backed up her iPhone she can replace that iPhone and set up the new iPhone from her backup.
You can put the iPhone that went into water into a plastic baggie with either new silica gel packets (preferred) or raw rice and let it sit for 4 - 5 days. After that time remove the phone and connect it to power for at least a half hour. While it is still connected to power reset it by holding down the power and hold button, wait for the Apple logo then let go of the buttons. Might take several tries. If it revives immediately back it up.

HD to SD not looking very good

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