HDR Panorama Stitching (Photo Merge)
Hi,
Over the last few years I have generated a series of images to be converted in to a HDR Panorama.
i.e. Tripod mounted camera, take 3 exposure levels, rotate camera, repeat until scene is complete.
The problem I've found is that you can stitch, or you can HDR, but doing both tends to lead to problems. (normally alignment)
The solution occurred to me earlier, stitch the 0 exposure using PS Photomerge, then using the same masks, replace the images with the +/- exposures and I'll be able to generate 3 perfectly aligned stitched images, that can then be HDR'd.
The problem comes that PS rotates the images during alignment.
Is there anyway to duplicate the rotation on to a different series of images for the above purpose?
Either that, or can anyone suggest an alternative for my intended purpose?
I can't say as I have ever had a problem, but I would have used Photomatix for the HDR sets, and then merged the saved TIFFs in Photoshop. What is your current workflow?
Similar Messages
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Photo Merge is missing in my cs6. I wanted to make a Panorama but can't locate it, where should I look?
It should be under File>Automate>Photomerge in photoshop cs6.
Which operating system are you using? -
In LR6CC, after using the merge to HDR and the photo returns to LR as a DRG, it is not automatically put into a previously set up stack. For example a stack of three photos. If I use NIK HDR and the photo returns to LR, the stack is automatically changed from 3 to 4. When LR's HDR merge brings a photo back into LR's library, the stack number does not change and the DRG version isn't included in the stack.
Hi,
The Ps CS6 public beta version contains the same camera support as found in Ps CS5/5.5 compatible CR 6.6. There will be future updates to CR 7 for Ps CS6 to pick up more camera support. The Nikon D800 NEF files are not supported, yet.
If you like to work with your D800 files in the public beta build now, you'll have to get the DNG Converter 6.7 from here: http://labs.adobe.com/technologies/cameraraw6-7/
and convert your files to DNG.
regards,
steve -
When using Lightroom's HDR Photo Merge, is there any way of zooming in to 100%, to view the effect that deghosting is having on the HDR image ?.
ColdForest wrote:
Slightly different issue, but wondered if you might have feedback on a ghosting issue I'm seeing. I thought I'd quickly experiment with HDR merge as a way to remove ghosts as opposed to directly creating an HDR composite. That is, all exposures (I tried the merge with two and also three exposures) were identical (focus, ISO, ap, speed) and I was hoping that the merged result would simply remove the couple obvious ghosts (two people in completely different areas of the frame and then also slightly moving clouds). However, none of the de-ghosting options were able to completely eliminate these ghosts.
If the images are all same exposure (i.e. identical) I'm surprised the LR Merge to HDR didn't fail with an error message. I just tried LR Mege to HDR with three copies of the same file renamed (1, 2, 3) and there was no error message! Clearly it's failing to deghost the "same exposure" image files, but it's not telling you either!
I just tested PS HDR Pro with the three "same exposure" images and got this popup. Unless you assign a different EV to each image the OK button is disabled. LR Merge to HDR is simply playing dumb and goes right ahead and then does nothing!
PS image stacks with layer masks is what you need to deghost these image files. I doubt this can be done fully "automatically." There has to be human intervention to decide what's a ghost and what's not. -
Photo Merge HDR and camera vibrations
I use a Manfrotto 055X Pro tripod with a Manfrotto 332RC2 head, when mirror lock is utilized, this set-up produces excellent results. There is however a slight vibration when the mirror is raised, then again after the image has been captured. A bracketed set of images therefore, do not align perfectly. The auto align option in Lightroom CC's Photo Merge HDR feature, copes well with this. I can not help, but wonder, if a perfectly aligned set of RAW images would produced superior HDR images.
Do you guy's, who use more expensive (and presumably superior) tripods and heads find that your bracketed images align perfectly or do you still use Photo Merge HDR's auto align option ?.Rafael Aviles wrote:
If you use mirror lock, there should be no effect on the shot from the vibrations that occur when mirror is raised, just make sure you wait long enough for them to dissipate. And, how would the mirror vibrations AFTER the image has been captured affect the shot?
Another thing to check: make sure the Vibration reduction (VR) or Image Stabilization (IS) is turned OFF if you have the camera on the tripod. (Unless your lens has a setting for VR or IS while on a tripod, that is.)
I think it's the IS, possibly in combination with uneven surfaces (mostly beaches), that's causing the slight image misalignments.
I captured a series of sunrise images, from a solid surface this morning (UK time), with the IS turned off. They aligned perfectly, the only image that didn't align was captured from the beach.
Thanks for your help. I've gone back through my image catalogue and discovered that the vast majority of my bracketed images do align. I've put those that don't, down to either forgetting to turn off IS, or the surface they were taken from. -
Photo merge panorama import file size?
Is it necessary to convert files to jpeg when doing a photo merge panorama. I keep getting to told to convert to 8 bit from 16 bit and am not sure how to do that.
Which version of photoshop elements and operating system are you using?
If these are camera raw files, then most likely the camera raw converter is set to open the files as 16 bits/channel in photoshop elements.
You can change that by opening a camera raw file and then at the bottom of the camera raw dialog set the Depth to 8 Bits/Channel and then press Done.
Try your pano again and see if that made a difference. -
Cannot figure out what is wrong. It says my lightroom is up to date but not showing the option photo>photo merge so I can use the new HDR function in Lightroom. Is anyone else having this problem?
Contact Adobe. That is what I finally had to do. the number is 1-800-833-6687. There was a problem with a file. They took over my computer and got everything working for me.
Shane -
I have been using Photoshop Elements 11 photo merge function. However, the Photomerge panorama function is no longer accessible - it is visible but greyed out on the "enhance" menu. I have tried to reinstall software, but no change.
Click on Expert and the Enhance>Photomerge>Photomerge Panorama should be available
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Hi all,
I have Elements 3
I am using a pc with winxp
I'm using an Epson CX4600 scanner
I have scanned a poster in four parts because it was too big to fit on my scanner. So now I have four pieces, and I used photo merge to merge them back into one picture. The problem is I am getting dark and light variations on the images that cause one side of the image to be much darker than it originally was, and there are lines on the image that weren't there before. I tried color correcting each piece before putting them back together, I tried adjusting the overall image after flattening the layers but there are lines throughout. Any thoughts? Thanks!
JillHi Bob,
Now that you mention it, the Autostitch documentation is a bit obscure. It
would probably be worth posting my take on the options. This is a
combination of what I've figured out and what's in the Autostitch readme
file. Some of this will repeat what I said before.
1. Output Size
After stitching and cropping, the image is scaled according to the size
specified. You may specify a fixed width in pixels, or a fixed height in
pixels, or do a relative sizing using a scaling factor in percent. The
aspect ratio of the stitched image is preserved.
I use the default small scaling factor for test runs or while playing with
the option settings and 100% scale for the final. I prefer to do the final
cropping and sizing in Photoshop. The specific height/width settings would
be most handy if you had no photo editing program.
2. Blending Method
"None", will give you the original images with no blending.
"Linear", will do a simple weighted average of the image intensities in each
image.
"Multi-band" is more complex but gives the best blending, it uses spatial
frequencies of the intensity. The basic idea is to merge high frequencies
over a short distance and low frequences over a large distance. The default
is 2 frequency bands. It's not clear how the program is handling the blend
if more than 2 bands is specified. Theresearch paper I read just indicated
it was problematic. The sigma value has to do with the statistical weighted
blending of the bands and I couldn't find out the significance of the value.
I assume it has to do with the distribution curve and how many standard
deviations from the mean to include in the weightings.
3. Gain Compensation
Gain compensation modifies the brightness of the images so that they are
consistent with each other. Dark images become brighter and light images
become darker. This appears to be a normalized statistical adjustment using
the mean and standard distribution. Increasing sigma increases the effect.
If saturation occurs, you'll need to decrease the sigma or the mean. I
haven't had to play with this, I match exposures at the time of shooting and
haven't had any issues. I leave gain compensation off.
4. Crop Settings
Autostitch computes adjustments in a spherical coordinate system. Think of
the camera as being at the center of a sphere. Cropping refers to limiting
the angles subtended by the stitched image in this system rather than the
physical dimensions of the output image. Auto is probably the best bet
unless you have a need to fit the image to a specified angular size in
degrees. The Theta values correspond to the left and right yaw angular
measures (longitude in the readme). The Phi values correspond to the bottom
and top pitch angles (latitude in the readme).
5. Matching Options
The matching options are a bit obtuse.
SIFT is the part of the program that extracts features in the overlapping
areas for potential matches. Size has to do with the size of the region
that it searchs for features. Too small and it might not find enough to do a
good match. Too large and you increase the time it takes to process
considerably. You can specify size in pixels or in a percentage of the
image size. The pixel default is probably OK for most images.
RANSAC is the statistical method whereby the extracted features are compared
and the probability of a match is calculated. The parameters aren't
defined anywhere that I could find, so I don't know what they represent. If
I get time, I may research this further later. The readme says try
decreasing alpha and beta if no match is found or increase them if incorrect
matches are assigned.
6. Orientation Settings
Auto straighten has to do with the horizon line. If the panorama images
were not taken with the camera level, the geometric transformations that are
done to stitch together the images and superimpose the matched features can
result in the horizon being vavy (actually, it will be a sine wave). Auto
Straighten will attempt to recognize this and try to make the horizon line
straight again. It mostly works but I had to turn it off on one panorama
because it couldn't figure out where the horizon was and distorted the
image.
The Manual orientation settings let you tweak the image orientation. Again,
think of the camera as being at the center of a sphere. Theta is yaw, Phi is
pitch, and Psi is roll. The values are in degrees.
7. Image Rotation
This option applies to the completed stitched and scaled output image.
Basically, it allows you to rotate the image 90 degrees left or right or by
180 degrees. You can, of course, do this in Photoshop.
8. Other Options
System memory specifies how much memory Autostitch can allocate. Too much
can "starve" the rest of the system and result in an "out of memory"
message. Too little slows down the program.
JPEG quality controls the JPEG compression with 100 being the maximum
quality (least compression).
Hope you find this useful.
Bob -
Does lightroom have photo merge or do you need full photoshop?
does lightroom have photo merge or do you need full photoshop?
You're welcome. If you have Photoshop or Photoshop Elements installed, when you right-click on an image in Lightroom and choose to edit in one of those programs, one of the options is to merge to a panorama using that program. If you don't have program installed that will do that the option will not appear.
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I just install Adobe Photo Shop Elements 13 for the sole purpose of dealing with HDR and other touch up issues to pictures. Well I perform a photo merge of a 3 sequence photos with different exposure, in the hope of creating a single image (Note- I also have Elements 10 witch works fine but I figure that version 13 will do a better job) to my surprise it does not work correctly.
The result is a blurry picture like the picture is shifty this product is not working. This is a piece of Sh.... product that something that works on 10 doesn't even work on 13.
These are the steps I did to deal with the HDR photos. Choose all 3 pictures from album, -Enhance - Photomerge - Photomerge Exposure blurry result about a 1/4 " off.
Any ideas other can cancel order.That isn't HDR, just FYI. But it's always been better at merging a single photo exposed different ways than merging bracketed shots. If that was your main reason for purchasing PSE I would suggest that you cancel the order, if possible, and invest in a true HDR program instead.
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Is it possible to stitch or merge shots in Aperture?
Is it possible to stitch or merge individual shots in Aperture to create a panoramic shot?
You may want to check out the free Hugin for your panoramic shots. Download here: http://hugin.sourceforge.net
It is a very versatile tools, but you need to set quite a few parameters. You'll have to experiment a bit. -
Photo Merge now creates straight line merges...
In the old days when I did a Photo Merge from Bridge I would find that the merged document would have multiple layers with masks that had quite irregular edges (as expected) and therefore smooth fills. Ultimately PS produced really good panoramas with VERY LITTLE EFFORT required.
Sometime recently, and I'm not sure which CC update it was, this all stopped working and now my merges have straight line edges and sharp non-graduated fills. Where the panoramas have straight lines in the shots or clear changes (like skylines) they jump at the merged edges and are not smooth.
What has happened? What am I missing? What new settings are required to use Photo Merge? I have checked all the obvious places in both BridgeCC and PhotoshopCC 2014 and nowhere does it mention any new controls. I have checked the various help videos and nowhere do they use any methods that I do not use. Why do they get smooth transitions when I am not?
Now I am using PSCC 2014 on a Windows 7 laptop with a smallish hard drive (SSD) and not a huge amount of room (20-30Gb drive available at most) but this wasn't a problem previously and even when I make more space available the problem persists. Am I going to have to wait until I am home and have access to my desktop with 32Gb RAM and TB of available drive? Hope that isn't the case as it will be 3 months away.
Now if this website would allow me I would add a JPG of the PS window to show the problem but it won't let me upload the file even though it is less than the 4Mb limit in size. Then we get back to entering this forum which required me to log-in to my Adobe ID 15 times before it let me start a discussion...I've finally managed to get a screen shot into this forum.
I have deselected 2 of the frames to show the straight edges of the masks.
Now zooming in to the right hand join we see the skyline has an abrupt join... -
Panorama stitching. Is there a LR4 plug-in?
Hi,
I am interested in stitching 5 shots inside Fenway baseball park. I use Lightroom, but I don't have Photoshop. Is there a separate tool or better yet a plug in that would allow me to stitch photos together? Any guidance on whether to edit the photos first in LR, then export each and assemble, or to start with stitching and then edit in LR? The camera files are in RAW from a Nikon D300.
Thanks!
DaveHugin is an amazing and free program for stitching, however it does not do multiple exposure like PTgui Pro does
PTgui Pro does tone mapped HDR and fusion based ( much more natural looking) HDR.
I've tried both, but PTgui is just amazing -
this shot is 9 photos stitched together using PTgui) A tripod was used as each shot was 15 seconds.
This shot was hand held and again stitched with PTgui
This shot is made up of 15 photos, 3 exposures taken (-2,0,+2) then the camera rotated 10 degrees and the process repeated. It was stitched with PTgui and also fusion blended using the HDR Fusion option within PTgui.
They are not plugins, but very powerful tools for panoramics
enjoy
hamishNIVENPhotography -
Photo merge compatibility issue
Hello;
So I ceated a photo merged file (panorama) from 7 originals. Originals had been developed from raw using ACR. The merge runs to completion (auto option) and produces a very nice pano. I then flatten it and save it as a .psd. Later, I try to load the file (from browser) and I get a 'Not compatible with this version of photoshop' error. It is the same PS (CS5) which I ceated the pano with.
Any thoughts?Dose the bridge show the thumbnail image? If so have you tried opening in from Photoshop.
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