Hdv to dvd

Im new to final cut studio so this may seem stupid...
Im doing some tutorials and in one of them it says dont take hdv footage into compressor to make a dvd. its says make a self contained qt file and take that in to studio pro. is this right? is so how do you control the bitrate? is there a settign in studio pro to do this?

dvd's are only standard def, mpeg2's compressed down to 4gb or 8 for dual layered one's. so it sounds right to export as a self-contained QuickTime Movie, you are given the options of using your current settings or change them here,
to customise the bit rate's , have a look at using > eport >using QT convertion instead
hope that helps
ian

Similar Messages

Best Quality Exporting From HDV to DVD

I've searched on the web & gotten a few answers, but nothing seems to solve the situation.
What I've tried.
1920x1080p MPEG2, Quality 5, Min, Target, Max All Set To 60. Came out looking like crap when it was put on a dvd. Noisy, over contrasted (could be the tv), over colored (could be the tv).
720x480 MPEG2-DVD, Quality 5, Min, Target, Max All Set To 9. Came out looking worse then my previous attempt.
Anyone have a secret formula for HDV to DVD conversion?

Hello,
Couple of questions on the below:
1) Does this work for converting .MTS files?
2) If so, I download the Encoder presets, but where do I place them? (I didn't see any .epr files in the root of /encoder
On the Premiere CS4 end of things:
Download these Adobe Media Encoder CS4 presets for 100Mbps MPEG-2 I-frame 4:2:2
Export your 1440x1080 60i timeline using the corresponding preset from the ones above; this will create a (very large) .m2v file and .wav file
Now some freeware tools to get the conversion done properly:
Download and install the Lagarith lossless codec
Download and install VirtualDub
Download and install AviSynth
Download and install my hd2sd() conversion package for AviSynth (instructions for installation are in the .zip file)
Create a new blank text document in notepad, like such, and save this file as premiere.avs, and save it to the same folder as your .m2v and .wav file (edit the video and audio parameters to match your filenames). This is your "script" file for AviSynth:
video = "myfile.m2v"
audio = "myfile.wav"
FFMpegSource(video)
(audio == "") ? last : AudioDub(WavSource(audio))
hd2sd(OutputColorSpace="YUY2", OutputBFF=true)
Run VirtualDub
Open your premiere.avs file in VirtualDub
In VirtualDub, go to Video : Compression and select the Lagarith lossless codec
Also set VirtualDub to use Video : Fast recompress mode
Save your output to lagarith.avi
Import lagarith.avi into Encore for transcoding and authoring

HDV to DVD (NTSC)

Hi,
I am desperately trying to get a viewable SD-DVD version of HDV footage.
I am following the simple 2-step procedure:
1. Export in HDV
2. Use Compressor 2 to get DVD-90min best quality
I have no major problem in PAL, but when I transfer everything into NTSC, the 1st step is still fine but the second step gives me horrible horizontal lines on the edge of moving parts of the image. I tried all sorts of configurations for de-interlacing and field dominance but it does not seem to do any better.
Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? This is quite urgent, I have to send the film to Japan by the end of next week...
Thanks.

Jean:
I don't work with HDV but have heard good opinions about this workflow in these forums: Bonsai’s HDV to DVD page.
Hope it helps !
Alberto

Workaround for compressor HDV to DVD field issue?

I need a work around for the field issue apparent when down-converting HDV to DVD.
The Bonsai method <http://www3.telus.net/bonsai/Welcome.html> will not work, as there is too much motion and a side effect of the "fastest" conversion is that it gives a 3-d ghosting effect on fast motion in the frame.
I can not convert to 720P60 or 480P, as FCP converts it to 30P and then doubles the frames, and the motion is jittery.
I could dump it to camera and then down-convert in camera, but I have heard this is not a great method either.
I have seen in another forum to save the HDV timeline in FCP as a HDV quicktime movie, and then import that into DVD studio pro and have it down-convert, but DVD studio pro says this is an "incompatible file".
How do I get 1080i HDV footage onto a DVD so that it looks acceptable?

I had a similar problem with HDV (1080i shot on Cannon HV-20) footage, looks great in post and terrible when converted (herringbone lines and too many artifacts.) I’ve successfully used the Bonsai method on another piece I did but the footage was shot on a HVX-200 at 720 24p and there were no “action” shots. I wasn’t as successful using the method using 1080i footage and it definitely didn’t help with the fast motion shots. I did a search in this forum on HD to SD and there are a lot of helpful hints and methods. I experimented with a lot of the suggestions but in the end I was able to produce very nice and acceptable results by doing the following:
1] I didn’t create an SD sequence; I exported the footage as a Quicktime movie (self contained) straight from my HDV sequence.
2] I dropped the Quicktime file into Compressor and selected 90-minute DVD Anamorphic Best 2-pass VBR. Running Compressor from Final Cut ties up your system as well as there seems to be a delay between the handoff from Final Cut to Compressor (running the latest 5.x version and 2.3.) Creating a Quicktime file frees your system and it’s debatable if you actually compress faster or take a hit on quality. I’ve tested both from Final Cut and using a Quicktime file and didn't see any real difference in quality.
3] Change the field dominance from Top to Progressive in the tab where you see 2-Pass VBR Best and also in the encoding tab (not in front of my system so I can’t recall the name or order of the icons). In the encoding tab you will notice it says “same as source.” The pull down will show you Top, Bottom, Progressive, Automatic…I tried them all and in various combinations and anything other than progressive in both tabs produced undesirable results.
4] The options for Fast, Good, Better and Best in the other encoding pull down sections are a matter of preference and patience. Selecting Best in all categories takes a really long time to compress (36 hours for a 9-minute piece using a Mac Pro 3.0GHz dual-core Intel with 4GB ram.) I ran tests using different combinations and found that selecting the default settings is decent and stepping each category up to the next level helped but not enough to warrant the long compression cycle to stick with Better across the board. When you do your testing, it’s best to use as little footage as possible or you will find yourself waiting too long to see the actual results. I used a 1-second (29 frames) shot of a girl twirling around, hair flying everywhere, and girls next to her using hula-hoop’s.
5] Use the sliding bar in the viewer to see the impact of your choices before submitting the job. To the right you will see the “original” footage and to the left you can see the results of your selection. You can move the bar across the footage to see (approximately) the end results.
6] One thing I did notice is that no matter what settings I use, the output is slightly darker (reds were deeper, skin tones were warmer and not as smooth), but hey, you are going from HDV to SD so it’s not going to be perfect.
Hope that helps and good luck.
Kenny

HDV to DVD interlace field order - depends on export path!

Summary: Export... -> Using Compressor versus compressing an Export... -> QuickTime Movie file, produces different field orders in the resulting MPEG.
In Detail: Here is my HDV to DVD (MPEG2) process;
Create a DV sequence, and drop the HDV into it, it gets resized, and has a filter to shift the fields by +1 added to it, and is scaled to the correct size for 4:3 (letterboxed) or 16:9 (fills 720x480) - which is fine.
Set the Quicktime Video Compressor for the sequence to 'None', and set the Video Processing -> Motion Filtering Quality to 'Fastest (linear)' as I don't like what Normal or Best does to the image (makes it pixally, check in the canvas).
Now, if you Export -> Using Compressor, and setup a 2-pass mpeg 2 encode, you get a very good image, no via - DV artifacts. I also add the channel blur, set to 1 on all channels, if its too sharp - channel blur does not blur between fields, like flicker filter does, so the motion is not compromised, and looks excellent, but it stops sharp still images from flickering.
However, this is really slow, FCP is tied up, and for a 2 pass encode, any blur or colour filters get applied twice, its also harder to hand this off to a second machine to get on with.
So, logically, you would instead, Export... -> QuickTime Movie... -> Current Setting, Make Self Contained and then load that into Compressor, apply the SAME settings you did Using Compressor... At which point, the FUN begins.
I have finally narrowed down, that this changes the field order, although I nearly went mad discovering it - every time I thought my little 10 second test worked, (exported from the timeline) I would save the whole thing out and compress it, only to find, the interlace order changed, and now needed the field shift removed! And, because my little test worked, I would then do the whole thing, some 20+ hours later, only to find it was wrong!
Export... -> Using QuickTime Conversion... is the same as QuickTime Movie...
Anyone else with experience of this ? It was maddening! But I think I am over the worst of it now! Is there any solution for unifying this for all export methods ?
When it works DVD's encoded from HDV look amazing.
When it works.....
FCP 5.0.4
Compressor 2.0.1
PowerBook G4 Mac OS X (10.4.4)

Hi Ben,
Ignore the Apple-0 (zero) part - that's just the key shortcut for the sequence settings. (press the Apple Key, and a Zero key with a sequence selected)
So, from the top: (although I'm not in front of my machine right now, so this is from memory)
Create a new DV sequence, 4:3 or 16:9.
Drop the edited HDV sequence into the DV sequence.
De-select the HDV sequence in the DV time line, bring up the Sequence Settings Dialogue for the DV sequence. (make SURE it isn't the sequence setting dialogue for the HDV sequence)
In the sequence setting dialogue, change the codec from DV to None (note - not the same as Uncompressed). If it's currently HDV, you have the wrong sequence, leave it as HDV, close the dialogue, and bring up the setting for the DV sequence.
On the 'Video Processing' tab, for the DV sequence, set the 'Motion Filtering Quality' to 'Fastest (linear)'
Choose OK to close the settings dialogue.
If you want to, and it depends on your footage, add the following blur filter to the HDV sequence in the DV timeline:
Select the HDV sequence in the DV timeline, right click (or hold ctrl key, and click) on the HDV sequence in the DV timeline, and choose the top item in the pop-up menu, 'Open' (in viewer). Click the filters tab of the viewer, you will see the Shift Fields filter, set to +1, added by FCP, add the channel blur, above the shift fields filter. Set the blur to 1 on each channel. I prefer this to the Video -> Flicker Filter, as channel blur does not blur between fields, so it does not blur motion.
I discovered this by accident
Now Save, the following sometimes crashes FCP. Check it in the Canvas viewer, set to 100%, with the channel blur, around text and sharp contrast areas, you get a nice soft blur, turn off that filter if you think its too much.
On to the encoding:
The simplest step, is to choose the DV timeline, and export via compressor. Pick a 2 pass MPEG preset, that matches the 4:3 or 16:9 of the sequence, and submit. This takes a while, on slower machines.
The alternative, which can reduce the time, is to export the DV sequence as an uncompressed QuickTime file - this does not change the quality at all - but can speed things up, because FCP is quite slow at delivering frames to Compressor, compared to Compresser just reading the frame from an uncompressed file, Compresser has to read them twice for 2 pass MPEG encoding. However, you need a lot of fast disk space to store the uncompressed footage.
Hope this helps.
Keep the replies / mail on these boards, that way they stay useful to all!
It was great weekend in Vancouver, wasn't it ?
Hit the beach on Sunday, good times

Green line on left side of HDV-to-DVD footage

I am editing 1080p30 HDV footage. I get a faint green outline around the frame when I use Compressor to create the DVD M2V file.
This only seems to happen when I use Frame Controls - which I need to use, otherwise the footage comes out full of aliasing. So I need the resize filter.
What is a green edge a symptom of? What am I doing wrong here?

I just got done doing a fresh Snow Leopard install along with the new FCS3. Tonight I finished my first project (HDV 24p) and when I went to run it through compressor to go out to DVD I noticed the same thing.
I feverishly tried exporting with with dozens of different settings combinations. FINALLY, I found turning OFF frame controls fixed it. I'm glad I found the source of the issue but, like you, am a bit upset I can't use frame controls when I want higher quality output for my HDV>SD DVD downconversions.
As bad as this sounds- I hope a lot of people are having this issue that way Apple will acknowledge it and publish a fix.
PS Slightly OT but....I checked Compressor on another machine (latest version that was with FCS2) and it seems Frame Controls were OFF by default. Now they seem to be ON by default.

HDV into DVD SP " Incompatible format"

I'm having problems getting my HDV project into DVD pro. The film was shot in HDV and exported as a quicktime movie. I sent it to compressor and ended up with these specs once it compressed.
1920x1080 codecs: H.264. integer ( Big Endian), Duration 44:41 Total bit rate 11,320
DVD SPsays "Incompatible format". Is there anything I can do or should I convert it to SD?
Thanks!
Michael

Yes, Thanks Studio X. I used the preset in compressor for HDV H.264. Since I shot this in HDV I would prefer to have the final product in HDV. It seems others are having problems importing HDV into DVD SP. I was hoping for a simple explaination Ha Ha!
Michael

HDV to DVD conversion

I've read a great deal of discusson on this site regarding HDV to DVD conversion and how to get the best possible results. There seem to be about a half a dozen marginal solutions but in my opinion and experience no real perfect definitive solution.
This is in the way of a suggestion/plea/request to Apple, to those who run this forum, and to those experts there who deal with Final Cut pro and HDV editing: Could someone please create a definitive expert professional manual/post/procedure on how to do this very straightforward conversion from HDV to DVD with the BEST possible industry quality results.
DF
g5 tower Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Seriously, open the phonebook, start asking who can take a HDV master on miniDV tape, and hand you back a DVD in a day or two, it may be cheaper than buying pro encoder software, and your time to learn how to use it effectively. You should have budget for this, promos / trailer work should be included. Your time costs money. It will also put you in a better position to know what to ask for when the project is finished.
Using the camera down convert is good enough. DVD from DV is fast to make. If you are just previewing it, S-VHS is also good enough, and very quick and simple to produce - don't rule out lower tech, or lower quality options, they will still tell the same story.
In answer to your question, (do you really want to know ?), the colour space of the NTSC DV in camera down conversion is 4:1:1, the colour space of MPEG video is 4:2:0 (search for those terms, until you hit a page with diagrams of boxes), the differences in these structures results in a worst of both colour encoding - if you are shooting PAL, then the story is different, as PAL DV is also 4:2:0, and probably not significantly different from the DV50 method, once its on DVD.
DV50 is 4:2:2, HDV is 4:2:0, but at a higher resolution. When downscaled, I estimate SD from HDV is around 4:2:2 or maybe even 4:4:4, by going via DV50 to DVD you deliver the most DVD's can represent, rather than with NTSC DV where you deliver half the colour space DVDs can show. BUT the in camera down convert is REALTIME, consider the benefit of that before taking the slower route.
Is the DV50 the best SD down convert ? I don't know. It certainly looks very clear, shows no, or little signs of the DV50 codec adding artefacts over the original HDV footage, and produces more quality than the MPEG encoder can represent once on DVD, or at least, the MPEG encoder I have access to. I cannot say the same of the in camera convert. I also played with uncompressed codecs, and the None compression codec, they require huge amounts of disk space, and didn't look better than the DV50 method. However, I didn't test them with your footage.
I suggest a 1 minute 'bake off' between the methods, using your own footage, to see just how much quality you are willing to accept. You may find the in-camera is good enough, and a darn sight easier and faster.
Hope this helps - search around more, trawl through some older threads, or, just pick up the phone and call a post house to make it all go away! By the time you have figured out what works best for you, they would have finished and be on to the next job.

HDV to DVD field issue

I need a work around for the field issue apparent when down-converting HDV to DVD.
The Bonsai method will not work, as there is too much motion and a side effect of the "fastest" conversion is that it gives a 3-d ghosting effect on fast motion in the frame.
I can not convert to 720P60 or 480P, as FCP converts it to 30P and then doubles the frames, and the motion is jittery.
I could dump it to camera and then down-convert in camera, but I have heard this is not a great method either.
I have seen in another forum to save the HDV timeline in FCP as a HDV quicktime movie, and then import that into DVD studio pro and have it down-convert, but DVD studio pro says this is an "incompatible file".
How do I get 1080i HDV footage onto a DVD so that it looks acceptable?

Just to make sure I undestand you (I am having the same problem...my video looks jagged and not very sharp).
You're saying to creat a new sequence that is the 720 x 480 10 Bit Uncompressed?
And then in Settings under field dominance set that to NONE and motion filtering quality to Best. When I put my sequence into this uncompressed timeline, do I need to render it or can I just go straight to compressor? Does it matter?
Are there any settings within Compressor to change, such as Deinterlacing, field dominance (progressive, lower/even, upper/odd), blur, anti-aliasing?
I am using HDV 1080i60 Codec to shoot in and edit.
Thanks so much. I will try your suggestion. Have you used this procedure much?

HDV to DVD-Change Field Dominance Or Not?

A search I did recently pointed to this article:
[http://www.larryjordan.biz/articles/bkhdvconvert.html]
The author claims that when exporting an HDV sequence from FCP to Compressor, he changed the default field dominance from Upper to Lower, resulting in a better quality DVD, smoother motion, etc.
There wasn't anything wrong with my HDV exports using the default upper dominance, but I decided to try it, just looking to squeeze out any improvement I could.
The results were terrible; awfully jerky motion, dot crawl across the top of the image, etc., so I went back to using the default.
But then I thought, I wonder if the improvement the author saw was because he exported an HDV Quicktime Movie first, then put that into Compressor and switched the field dominance . . .
I usually export my HDV timeline right out of FCP to best quality DVD in Compressor, without the in between step. Just wondering if anyone else has tried it the way it's mentioned in the article, and if it's made a difference for them.

Wow, this thread was way back there;
Anyway, I use a Sony V1U, and shoot 1080i60, and I had been getting acceptable results, but was just looking for a bit more detail.
After reading the article, I sent a finished project to Compressor both ways; 1st with the default upper field dominance, and then again changing it to lower, as the article recommended. The default upper file looked pretty good, but the 2nd time with it on lower looked terrible; all kinds of motion displacement.
I've been using the default since, and have not tried it the other way since that first time. When I get time, I'd like to try exporting a QuickTime movie first, then put that into Compressor with the switched lower dominance to see if there's any improvement that way. I usually just export directly to Compressor from the timeline.
I appreciate the comments, and I'm always interested in any setting changes that might squeeze out some more detail when going from HDV to DVD.

Will Procoder 3 work as well as Dan Isaacs HDV -- SD DVD Workflow

I have Premiere Pro Projects in HDV and I need to get them onto DVD.
Dan Isaacs HDV --> SD DVD Workflow looks complicated.
Are there products like Procoder 3 that will get the same results as Dans Workflow with less complication.
I realize Procoder 3 isn't cheap, but money isn't a problem.
I just want quality (HDV>SD DVD) conversions with the least amount of work.
TIA

> I no longer have access to the debug frameserver plugin in CS3 after installing cs4 on same machine. I saw a similar post and am eagerly awaiting to hear if Dan has any suggestions??
Sorry... I don't know about that one. Very strange.
> I cannot use Dan's workflow in CS4
You can't use DebugMode, but if you export some HD intermediary from CS4 you can run that through the script.
If you have the Cineform or Matrox HD codecs, you can try exporting with that. You can also try exporting as Lagarith @ 1440x1080i.
Another alternative that I'm forumating uses MPEG-2 4:2:2 I-frame exported from AME. See
this thread. (NOTE: This is for PAL I/O... adjust settings as necessary for NTSC).

*** HDV to DVD is losing something in the translation

I'm going from HDV 1080i60 footage to SD-DVD and am still completely unhappy with the text on my projects. Nearly every time the text looks like it's out of register and not at all crisp. The footage looks okay for the most part although it is a lot softer than when I watch the same project through my AppleTV. I understand that DVD is much less resolution than either full HD or DVD but is it unreasonable to expect that the text from my HDV footage looks so bad on DVD? In the days when I'd shoot on my VX2000 and transfer to DVD the text always looked crisp and clean. How could it have gone so far backwards.
There are a few different workflows I'm currently using so I'm wondering if someone could comment on what I may be doing wrong or what I could tweak to improve the results. Specifically, should I be de-interlacing the footage first in Final Cut Pro or should I be changing the field order in Compressor? What could I do to improve the results?
Workflow 1:
FCP>Compressor>DVD 90 minutes best quality encode
Workflow 2:
FCP>Self-contained QT movie>Compressor>DVD 90 minutes best quality encode
Workflow 3:
Print to tape>Import down-converted to SD into FCP>Compressor>DVD 90 mins best quality
Workflow 4:
FCP>self-contained QT movie>Convert to AppleTV (.mp4) with ViddyUp>Compressor>DVD 90 mins best quality
I'd be extremely thankful for any help that anyone can give. This is an issue I've had a lot of trouble with and need to find a reasonable solution for, soon! Thanks in advance!

Quite honestly, you'll continue to have this "issue" as long as you use HDV or any format of hd in general to make sd dvds. If you really want to alleviate this problem you're experiencing, don't acquire in any sort of hd video that is destined for dvd at this time.
You have got to be kidding me. Instead of there being a viable way to convert 1 format to the other you think a reasonable solution is to shoot SD or only author HD-DVD or Blu-ray? It's this unrealistic approach that has a really negative impact on these boards. I am not going to use my HDV camera in SD mode and handcuff myself later on when I truly CAN make HD-DVD or Blu-ray discs easily. Apple has still to develop DVDSP that can do this and don't sell internal Apple burners. So according to your suggestion, I should still be shooting in the dark ages b/c somebody hasn't found a way to convert 1 format to the other. Unfortunately, most clients don't even have HD-DVD or Blu-Ray players yet so DVD is still the norm. Shooting in SD completely limits my ability to upsell the project to HD when they get a player and therefore eliminates a perfectly good revenue stream.

Some HDV to DVD Screen Size Questions, Basic I know

This is my first foray into HD of any kind, but I've been using FCP on and off since version 2.
I'm importing from a Canon HV40 mini dv camera which uses HDV. The easy setup I'm using is
HDV to ProRes - Canon-1080i60. Capturing works, but I was advised by a friend to try burning a DVD and seeing if it works before continuing, so I did. I tried using Share, DVD SP and iDVD.
I have a Samsung 720p TV and a Samsung DVD player. The picture is floating in the middle of the screen, with black bars all the way around it, using up around 50% of the screen real estate. Is this just the nature of HDV, or is there something else I need to do? Thanks in advance!

Keep in mind that a DVD always contains a standard definition image. The standard def image can be in a 4:3 or 16:9 aspect ratio - but it is always 720x480 pixels.
The problem is likely the communication between your DVD player and the TV set. Check the settings for both. If you are starting with a 4:3 image, the DVD player should send a pillar boxed image to a 16:9 display and be full screen on a 4:3 TV. If you send a 16:9 anamorphic image, it should display full screen on the 16:9 device and letterboxed on the 4:3 TV.
To make sure this happens you need to select 16:9 letterboxed under the disk settings in DVDSP then look into the TVs settings for how it handles feeds.
x

Best HDV to DVD settings

I have a feature length film shot with a Sony FX-1.
The footage is all HDV 1080i.
I used PP for editing and using Encore for DVD authoring.
All my attempts so far result in absurdly bad looking video when previewed in Encore on the computer, or burned to dvd and watched on TV.
The main problem is when there is movement in the video its very jerky.
The interrum video files exported out of PP look fine by the way.
I'm pretty sure the problem is I need to export out of Premiere with some kind of special top secret settings to get it to look ok in DVD format.
Anyone privy to these settings?
Quality is my main concern, file size is not a concern.

I solved the problem.
The issue was that the Encore Preview always plays the video with the jerky artifact. When the disk is built the problem does not exist.
So turns out the regular MPEG2-DVD export setting is fine.
There is one minor problem however. When you watch the video closely on the TV, it seems to be slightly out of focus or blurry for 2 seconds, then in focus for 1 second. Every 3 seconds or so this repeats. Its not hugely noticable. If you focus on part of the image that is not changing such as trees in the background its most noticable.
Any ideas?
I have tried the quality setting at 5 (max)
VBR 1 pass.
Min bitrate 1.5
Target 5
Max 7.5
GOP settings 3 and 15.
Field order - lower.
Multiplexing:
should I use DVD or NONE?

*** Still trying to get good HDV to DVD image quality

Okay, so I thought I had a good solution, but I'm now back to square one. I'm shooting and editing in HDV with a Sony Z1U. I edit by using Final Cut Pro, 1 monitor and my 32" LCD tv (native resolution of 1366x768). While editing the image, and especially the text looks crystal clear.....beautiful.
My problem is outputting it to DVD. Currently, I am exporting my project directly from the timeline of FCP into compressor using the 90 minutes best quality 16:9. This gives my a 2pass VBR at 6.4mbps.
On a tube tv, it looks so-so, but it appears as though almost as if the lines are out of resigster. It reminds me of reading a newspaper where the print is off register. Definitely you can see interlacing around people and the text looks off register.
In DVD format on my LCD flat panel it looks really good (the best it can look).
On my 60" Sony SXRD new tv at home it looks really bad (granted I'm using a Playstation 2 to show it, and on the flat panel I'm using a DVD player with upconversion capabilities - maybe that's the solution right there....)
Currently I'm not adjusting the presets in Compressor.
Given all the variables above, is there anything that anyone can suggest that will give me better results? I don't want to import the footage in SD because then I'm editing SD and can never output the finished project as HDV when Blu-ray or HD-DVD comes out.
I would really appreciate some other workarounds that people have used to try and make their HDV footage look as best as possible in DVD format.
The frustrating thing is that you never know what TV your clients are watching your project on. Is there a standard set up that I could suggest they buy/use to get the best results?
P.S. When watching my project on the 60" SXRD I'm not only using a Playstation 2, but also it is connected through an S-Video cable. On the LCD flat panel, I'm using the up-converting DVD player and an HDMI to HDMI cord....Does the cord/way of connecting really make that much of a difference? How do I make it still look good for people that want to watch it letterboxed on a tube tv?

It's not the upconverting as much as the limitations of S-Video connections. And for true upconverting, you need to utilize the HDMI connection, which will produce better results over component, and qualitatively better over S Video.
As to client complaints as to image quality, my analog of the weakest link still holds. I always show my clients what it looks like on a good DVD player with at least component in to progressive conversion.
If their set up produces less, you simply identify what part of their set up is suspect.
Good quality blanks. Solid encode rates, and Dolby 2/ac3 audio.
Again, it has to be good going in
take care,
and I would appreciate it if you could award points.
It helps us all out.
david
BTW, go to http://www.lyric.com/video/losgatos/index.htm and look at the web samples of Los Gatos Then and Now, or buy the DVD.
Produce on a FX1.
best wishes
David
Remember to mark an response helpful or solved.
It protects the integrity of the board.

Another HDV to DVD thread..Bonsai! please Read

Hey guys,
So I just finished my first HDV edited project. I shot it with a Z1U, edited it nativiely and its a 45 minute video, its huge. I have a ton of graphics from livetype (great little program) throughout the video as lowerthird fonts for here and there and lots of graphics over video. I have multilply video tracks and audio tracks. I showed my client the footage and she was so floored she feels like she owes me more money which she said she would give me.
Anyways. SO it looks good in my computer (powermac g5 quad latest everything, have no external monitor, just 2 23inch cinama displays)
but now i have to get it to DVD.
I just got back from my hospital where they remade my brain after it melted reading everything and anything on this site.
Now the only reason i am posting a new thread is that from what I read the only projects being discussed is for simply cuts and dissolves project and i wanted to know if the same guys for projects such as mine?. and most importantly, i couldnt find anything on the type of DVD I should be using for burning.
Quality is very important to me, but am aware of the money I spent. I want this DVD to look good. Ive read some guys talking about bitvice? to do my encoding? since im new to everything, would it be wise to buy something that does the hard stuff for me? or can it be done without that stuff? is there software out there that will do this for me?
how come apple can't realize there are hundreds of FCP editors and producers going bald early because they can't get off there *** and get one of their techies to write a book on this stuff?
Ive read so many methods but no conclusive info. I read the latest thread about testing everyway, and i currently am. Im doing the bosai dv50 method.
I've read alot of your stuff Bonsai but it seems like when you say you have it figured out and it looks awesome, you go back and try to do it better. I award you though and highly respect you not only for your hard work but for takingthe time and posting on this site. That goes for everyone on this site,
anyways, I need to stick my head back in the freezer, my brain has melte
d. It works!!! try it!!
P.S. Time is not really an issue, I mean it is, but I can talk my way out of it. My clients perfer quality over time, so even if the 1 thing that truley works takes 6 days, then it will take 6 days. I dont need a quick method if quality is sacrificed.

well, i'm a bit confused. first you claim your clients don't care about quality and wouldn't know it if hit them upside the head. now, it has to be the best. fine.
in the idvd and dvd studio pro forums there are countless threads regarding media. personally, i like tdk and taiyo yuden 8X discs, i've not burned a coaster since getting a new burner last summer and i've not burned a lot, maybe around a hundred.
regarding cuts and dissolves and layers, i'm not sure i understand what you're asking. are you asking about compression issues or presets or methods or what? if you've been following bonsai's threads, then i'm not sure why you're asking for more info as he's been very comprehensive.
i don't work with hdv, but the format is becoming more popular. how about if you test your ideas and methods and report back? you could become the hdv expert that is needed around here.
good luck,
zeb

Hdv to dvd

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