Heat Sensor on SATA Drive (iMac G5)

The hard drive on my iMac crashed and I am in the process of replacing it.
I followed the "any SATA is OK" rule and bought a Seagate/300 750G.
As I try to install it, I see the it does NOT have any attachment point for the small heat sensor wire.
Does that mean it doesn't need a heat sensor? Is it OK to just let the wire dangle? Or should I go back and get a different kind of drive?

Dennis - I see you have vowed to make backups regularly, the easiest way, I have found, is to use SuperDuper!, it will make an excellent clone of your system, and then it makes regular scheduled incremental back-ups. You set the schedule and as long as you remember to have your firewire drive connected, you're all set! The first clone will take a long time, the following incremental back-ups are much faster, I schedule them for very early in the morning, before I get up, so the computer is all set without being used to write the backup.
Hope this gets you started on the virtuous road,
Miriam

Similar Messages

I want to fit a SSD to my 21.5 3.06ghz mid 2010 IMAC; Is it possible to install the current 500gb sata drive into my older 20inch A1224 IMac?

My A1224 20 inch Imac has a damaged HD, so I am wondering if the 500 gb sata drive installed in my mid 2010 imac can be installed as I am looking to upgrade to SSD and would like to make use of the 'spare' HD.
If t.his is not possible can someone recommend the best drive to by for the older mac?
Thanks

My recommendation for the older drive would be to use it to create a bootable backup, that way you would have 2 backups. Your basic Time Machine backup and a redundant (very good idea for backups!!!) bootable drive. All you need is an expensive enclosure which you can find for less than $30.

IMac Intermittently Won't power on...bad heat sensor maybe?

So, I have a mid-2011 iMac 21.5" that I am having some apparent power issues with.
Note : About 8-10 months ago, I had the screen replaced under AppleCare due to a discoloration that started in the upper left corner of the LCD. I am not sure if this has any relevance, but wanted it included.
A couple months before this, I was experiencing an issue where the Mac would shut down on its own, hard, and then wouldn't turn back on. No bios post, no chime, no CD-rom noise, no nothing. I thought something was fried, and became very worried. I unplugged it for several days, and setup a Genius bar appointment. Before going, I decided to plug it in and try one more time. To my surprise, it worked and booted as if nothing at all was wrong. It ran for several days, and then did the same exact same thing. Turned off, wouldn't turn back on, left it unplugged for several hours, came back, worked fine. It continued this process for about a week or so off and on, as I troubleshot, but then eventually just stopped occurring and worked great.
Then a few weeks later the LCD went bad as described above, so I had it replaced. All was still fine after getting it back. We moved to a new home, and didn't have any issues for about 6 months or so, until the last 2 weeks, when the issue has started again, and is much more frequent. At this point, if I plug the iMac in, it will last for only about an hour at most, then will not turn back on until I leave the power cord unplugged for a couple of hours. I am testing it currently with varying amounts of time having the power cord unplugged. For example, incident occurred and I unplugged for 30 minutes. I then tried to plug in and turn on, and was greeted with the CD-Rom sound, and about half a chime, then it died. Almost like it is "charging" something inside that isn't holding power maybe...? I have entertained the thought that maybe the heat sensor either is going bad, or maybe it is getting hot inside, causing it to turn off, although I must say, the outside of the casing of the iMac is literally cool to the touch. For the past 6 months, the computer has been stored and used in a half-finished basement room, that at times can get to as low as 55-60 degrees fahrenheit, again not sure if that has any relevance.
I have tried resetting the SMC obviously by leaving it unplugged for so long, and I have tried resetting the PRAM/NVRAM by holding COMMAND+OPTION+P+R until the computer reboots, but this has had no effect on the machine and this issue.
I assume that since it won't even post to the Bios or chime, that this is likely not a hard disk issue? My biggest fear would be logic board of course.
My next step in troubleshooting is going to be to leave it unplugged for the next few hours, then hopefully get it to boot, install a temp monitoring program like iStatMenus or iStatPro and monitor to see if it is reporting a steep temperature increase, and go from there. If it is reporting a high hard disk temp, then I can try booting from an external hard disk and see if that has any different effect.
Anyone else have experience with this? If the temperature isn't actually high, but just reporting high, then I assume I will need to replace the Ambient Temperature Sensor, which looks fairly involved based on the iFixit article, would possibly look at having Genius Bar perform. Is there a way to disable the temp sensor temporarily to see if this is possibly the cause of the issue? I assume not, since if used incorrectly, you could seriously damage your machine.
Thank you everyone,

Unfortunately there is no cheap way to diagnose, I don't believe Apple charges for a diagnostic however it does require you take the machine to be looked at. You can also speak to an AASP and find out what they charge for a diagnositic, however even if you are able to physically do the repair yourself you have to locate the part(s( and Apple does not sell individual parts to consumers, they only do this to AASPs. However you can look on E-Bay but then a) aren't sure the part you buy is OK and b) are not 100% sure the part you buy is the offending part(s).
In short, it's probably cheaper to have a professional diagnose the issue and fix it.
Good luck!

Moving files from bootable SATA drive to new iMac

I'm looking to upgrade to a new iMac from a very old G4 (running Leopard). The G4 is dead, but the SATA drive I installed a few years ago is still good, and has a lot of files I'd like to transfer to the iMac. If I use a drive dock, is there any reason I can't retrieve those files from the SATA drive to the iMac? If it makes any difference, the SATA drive is currently the boot drive for the G4, and is partitioned between apps and files.

See Pondini's setup instructions.

17" iMac & SATA drives

I asked a similar question regarding the latest iMacs...
but here is the same question with regard to the slightly older 17" models...
the Intel core duo 17" iMac - they use SATA internal hard drive yes?
if I want to put in a bigger hard drive, it's not a major deal to open one up and swap out the drive and replace it with any SATA drive - even one of 500 GB capacity, is it?
Can someone point me to a set of visual instructions as to how to do this? (I have done it a lot on the PowerMac Desktop and the MacPro desktop...)
am thinking about getting a 17" iMac (I don't want bigger) and pimping it out with a bigger hard drive to use as an iTunes jukebox machine...
thanks! I always get info I can use here on the Mac forums...
w

Hi Will
I have the [iMac Disassembly|http://home.comcast.net/~woojo/DFFA53A0-F23D-4541-9015-481FD3B6532E /iMac_Disassembly.html] link.
And then [Service Source|http://www.baconeggs.co.uk/images/dmm/iMacEarly_200620.pdf] for a 20" that should help, the 17" is just shoe horned in tighter.
I'm not sure if this helps you, but my 17" Early Core Duo has a [160 Seagate Barracuda Drive|http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=3f9b3b0c2aeef010VgnVCM100 000f5ee0a0aRCRD&vgnextchannel=f424072516d8c010VgnVCM100000dd04090aRCRD&locale=en -US&reqPage=Legacy] in it.
Dennis

Random Shutdown Because of Heat Sensors?

I bought my white MacBook in mid-May (week 19 production) and it worked fine with the exception of a whine when I did not have the iSight Cam on, the occasional mooing after using the computer heavily then using the CPU lightly for a while, and the discoloration. If you ask me it wasn't that much of a set back because this computer was fast and reliable... or so I had thought!
All of a sudden about a week ago, after I had the discoloration fixed, thanks to AppleCare (which only took 5 days), my computer shut down randomly in the middle of light usage...
At first I had thought that my external hard drive was the problem and I was very upset that this had happened. I tried to reboot my computer, but all that would happen was the usual DVD drive start up sound and then it would turn off again. I tried about 5 times to restart it with no luck, so I walked away. About 20 minutes later I was able to start it back up...
After not using my external hard drive for a day, it happened again, in the middle of normal internet browsing and listening to music it randomly shutdown. I thought that maybe it was an OS 10.4.7 issue, because I had not had any problems with x.6, so I erased and restarted from scratch, and once again, another MacDeath. Once again, I thought it to be my fault in my installation of 2Gb of RAM. I re-installed the custom 2x256 RAM that came with the computer ( and will remain in my hands forever, because you can't even pay someone to take away a stick of 256Mb RAM these days) well after the old RAM was forcefully shoved back in, it died again! This is when I started to get mad...
I put up with the whinning, I put up with the heat, I put up with the discoloration (for a while), but now this? WHY!
Over the next week it happened almost daily and sometimes when I would turn on my computer after it being off for at least 5 hours, it would load my home screen and after about a minute I would hear the fan come on for a few seconds, and then it would die again. I noticed that most times that my MacBook would shutdown unexpectedly, the fan had just turned on for a few seconds or I was playing a game and the fan was already on...
So today I called AppleCare and I had to wait about 30 minutes before I talked to someone... (When I called last time about discoloration, the wait was about 5 minutes) So either there are more and more angry customers calling, or Apple is firing employees to increase their stock value...?
When I finally got through the man told me that it was most likely not the Logic Board, but instead FAULTY HEAT SENSORS and/or FAULTY HEAT SINK APPLICATION. I won't lie I have seen Core Duo Temp show readings as high as 91 C (about 196 degrees F). I knew that this things got hot, but not so hot as to start a fire if left on too long....
So I am getting a box from DHL tomorrow (woohoo) MacB. and I get to part ways again, but this time, from reading many threads, I assume our time apart will be much longer approaching around 2 WEEKS!!!
All I hope is that AppleCare will fix the heat sensors that are supposed to shutdown the computer when it gets overheated.... I have to go to school in about a month and I will not have time to deal with these kinds of issues! I really like the MacBook and all of it's features, but I did not sign up to get a MacDieOnMeBook!
APPLE USE SOME OF THE 24% SALE INCREASE THIS QUARTER TO HELP YOUR LOYAL CUSTOMERS WHO HAVE BEEN WITH YOU THROUGH THE GOOD AND THE BAD!
MB 2GHz White 2GB RAM - 250 GB External HD Mac OS X (10.4.6)

As of yet i'm not exactly sure about the heatsink problem, although a few in here have reported machines that work well after having this part replaced, while others who only had the MLB replaced reported a recurrence of the problem.
as for the volume indicator, i noticed that mine did that too, but it was in fact muted whether or not the tool bar indicated it. i dismissed this as a small quirk, similar to when my volume indicator didnt change as i pressed the volume buttons on my old laptop. but so long as there was an acknowledging "squirt" noise on the computer indicating change of volume, that shouldnt be a problem.
good luck withyour MB

Which 1TB (or bigger) SATA drive is the coolest/quietest/least power-hungry

I have a Power Mac G4 Dual 1.25 GHz MDD (it's this model here) which (as it's unmodified) runs very hot & noisy much of the time.
What doesn't help is that I have 3 hard drives installed. 2 of these (including the boot drive) are IDE (80 GB & 120 GB), and are attached to the cables at the front of the machine (am I right in thinking that this is the ATA-66 bus?). The third is a SATA drive (250 GB) connected to one of the sets of cables at the back of the machine (the ATA-100 bus?) via an IDE -> SATA adapter (not a PCI card).
This adapter took me many weeks of research to track down (& order online from the USA) as there didn't appear to be (at the time - a few years ago) anyone here in the UK that made or sold these adapters. (The opposite adapter - IDE drive to SATA cable - was freely available ironically, even in my local electronics shop). The physical size of the adapter means that I can't sit one of the other drives in the empty drive bay at the back of the machine.
A few months ago, as I was almost out of hard drive space, I decided to get a new (SATA) drive to replace the existing 3 drives. As well as giving me lots of capacity, one drive is going to use less power than 3, give off much less heat than 3, and hopefully reduce the fan noise.
Incidentally, I've found many good articles on reducing heat/power consumption/noise in MDD Macs - see here, here, here, here & here.
At the time, 1TB was the largest size available. After much research, along with some forum postings - see here & here - I decided to go for the Samsung Spinpoint F1 drive, which is currently quite cheap - see here.
However, I recently discovered that Seagate now makes a 1.5 TB drive, which would obviously be preferable - see here & here although it is much more expensive - see here.
However, there are many reports of problems with the Seagate drive - see here, here & here.
What I'm wondering is if there are any drives that are bigger than 1TB apart from the Seagate?
If not, would people recommend that I chance going for the Seagate, and hope that I don't have the problems, or that I'll be able to flash the firmware at some future point to sort the problem if it occurs (I have Virtual PC 7.0.2 installed, running Windows 2000 Service Pack 4 - would this enable internal hard drives to have their firmware updated?) or should I just play safe and go for the Samsung, even though it's "only" 1TB?
The largest capacity money can buy is my primary concern, followed by low power usage, low heat output & low noise.
Many thanks.

Thanks for the info.
I don't really see the point in the expense of a PCI card when the IDE -> SATA adaptor works fine, and if I bought a PCI card, I'd then feel obliged to go through the hassle of selling the adaptor on eBay to try to recoup part of the cost of the PCI card.
I should have mentioned before that I want to format my new drive as a single partition, in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format, and to boot from it. I only want the new drive in the Mac - I don't want any other drives in there. Apart from increased capacity & performance, and reduced power consumption, heat & noise - the main point of getting the new drive is so that there is only one drive in my Mac. Having more than one is a complete pain for me.
At the moment, despite having "Put the hard disk(s) to sleep when possible" unchecked in the Energy Saver pane of System Preferences, all 3 drives spin down very soon after they stop being accessed, which means an infuriating delay (& spinning beach ball) when they spin up again. One or more of them spinning up even interrupts music playing sometimes, and when I go to shut down the computer, if they are spun down but mounted on the desktop, they spin up again before they spin down as part of the shutdown procedure! Also, with more than one drive, I can't tell which drive a file/folder is on just by looking at it, if it's on the desktop.
As far as Other World Computing goes, they may ship to the UK, but by the time the international shipping charges are added, I very much doubt if the total cost of a new drive would work out cheaper than ordering from a UK supplier & getting free shipping.
Another potential problem I've discovered with the Seagate drive is actually a quote from the Other World Computing website that's reproduced in comment number 66 (on page 3) of the MacRumors Forums thread that I gave the link to in my initial post. Basically it says that if you format the Seagate drive as a single partition on a Mac, the performance isn't acceptable. It's apparently fine though if it's partitioned in 2 equal size volumes, or if you format it as an NTFS or FAT32 drive. Neither of these work-arounds are any use to me though.
Everything so far suggests that I should just go for the Samsung 1 TB drive, but I'm hesitant to do so until it's confirmed to me that there aren't any other drives out there that are bigger than 1 TB apart from the Seagate, and also, knowing my luck, the day after I buy the Samsung, Western Digital or Hitachi or someone will bring out a flawless 1.5 TB drive for not a lot more money, and I'll be kicking myself for ending up with only 2 thirds of the capacity than I could have had...

External sata drive speed ...

HI,
I have an iMac G5 1.6GHZ. Am I right to say that I cannot benefit of the speed of an external SATA drive until I have a computer that has a SATA connection in the back ???
Thanks in advance.
Robert Lespérance

Thank you ... That's speed !!!
By the way, I want to buy one of these 2.5" external hard drive for my backups and move it around with me on the road. Do you know if the outside temperature could be a concern for the drive if I leave it in the car for a long period of time ??
I understand though that I would have to let it warm up before using it once back !!
Robert

Dual-Drive imac with Bootcamp/Win7 and storage

I have a Dual-Drive iMac with a 1TB SSD(primary) and a 6TB SATA(secondary) harddrive.
I have BOOTCAMP on the primary with Windows 7. I happen to be primarily a windows user. So I would like to use(read and write) most of the 6TB on the SATA drive as my windows storage. I would like to know if this is possible and if so how could I go about this without destroying the contents in the SATA drive(some mac folders).
Appreciate it, if someone could point me to the right resources or instructions to do this.
Thanks.

Thank you for the response. Here are answers to your questions:
iMac:~ Home$ diskutil list
/dev/disk0
#:                      TYPE NAME                    SIZE      IDENTIFIER
0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *1.0 TB    disk0
1:                        EFI EFI                    209.7 MB disk0s1
2:                  Apple_HFS SSD                    95.7 GB    disk0s2
3:                Apple_Boot Recovery HD            650.0 MB disk0s3
4:      Microsoft Basic Data BOOTCAMP                904.0 GB disk0s4
/dev/disk1
#:                      TYPE NAME                    SIZE      IDENTIFIER
0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *6.0 TB    disk1
1:                        EFI EFI                    209.7 MB disk1s1
2:                  Apple_HFS Macintosh HD            500.0 GB disk1s2
3:          Apple_CoreStorage                        5.5 TB    disk1s3
4:                Apple_Boot Boot OS X              134.2 MB disk1s4
I would like the 5.5TB storage (currently /dev/disk1 - 3) to be all allocated to Windows 7(Bootcamp). Also for some reason, the 5.5TB space is configured to be a logical Volume Group! not sure, when, how and why!
iMac:~ Home$ diskutil cs list
CoreStorage logical volume groups (1 found)
|
+-- Logical Volume Group C3A49A44-9B09-4ACC-B9FF-BFEB1E206E21
    =========================================================
    Name:         WIND-DATA
    Status:       Online
    Size:         5500696072192 B (5.5 TB)
    Free Space:   5500343746560 B (5.5 TB)
    |
    +-< Physical Volume 4252BE1A-029B-4100-9F6B-2746D69655D3
        Index:    0
        Disk:     disk1s3
        Status:   Online
        Size:     5500696072192 B (5.5 TB)
Disk Utility pretty much is preventing me from doing anything on this volume!
Any help is appreciated!

Disabling Heat sensor?

My computer keeps shutting down, I think that it thinks it is running hot, but I feel the back and it is a normal temperature. My X Resource Graph says I am at 200 F, there is no way it is running that hot!
My fans REV up and go loud, but then the computer shuts down.
I usually have about 5-10 mins of usability on the machine.
It's been doing this for 3 weeks.
I have reset the SMU, PRAM, NVRAM, and nothing!
Can I disable the heat sensor so I can use my computer?

You definitely have a heat problem, I would call Apple as soon as possible, in the meantime, make sure that you have a bootable clone of your system, I use a firewire external drive and SuperDuper!.
There is no good reason to disable the heat sensor, it is there to protect the computer. Look at your Console system logs for any entry that say something like "maximum temperature exceeded for 30 seconds", that will tell you why your computer shuts down.
If you know your model, you might be eligible for one of these programs power supply or video and power issues.

Replace SATA drive power cable

One of the SATA drive power cables in my Power G5 2.0 DP died. Now I am using Y-splitter to get power from another port. It works but looks messy. I did quite a googling but I can only find power cable for iMac G5s. Could some one please tell me where to find replacements, or the definition of the pins so probably I can make one from the iMac version?

Hi
Any of the cables should work, the only differences being their length, one comes bundled with a SATA data cable and one is a splitter, allowing an ATA and SATA drive to be powered off the same existing molex connector. I'd just double check their male/female orientation before ordering though. It may be a shorter cable is better to reduce cable clutter inside the computer. I picked a SATA drive that included a legacy molex power connector on the drive itself, to keep the cable clutter to a minimum.

Heat Sensor Temperature chip replacement

I have been battling the high fan speeds, tried everything suggested on this great forum. I recently installed G4FanControl and to my surprise it opens and doesn't even recognize any of the 3 sensor temps or threshold, just says "n/a" So, my theory is that my heat sensor temperature chip is bad and I need to replace it.
Here is my question. I noticed a heat sensor chip located above the hard drive, I even went to great lengths of moving it to the back of the tower for better airflow, no luck. Is this the actual chip I need to replace? or is there another one I am missing. All my fans run at constant speeds, not turbo jet, but very loud and constant. CPU temps are only 27.9 C.
has anyone replaced this chip with any success? Here is a link to one listed on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260310799941&trksid=p3907.m32&trkparms=tab%3DWatching
It looks like the chip near the hard drive. Part number 922-6559
Thanks

yes, the recalibration was free! they did order the heat thermal sensor part, it was $14.00. However, I didn't need it and they didn't charge me for it. The disc was interesting, It was a burned copy and had no name on it. They were very secretive with it. I asked what the software was called and he didn't really answer my question. It was some sort of trouble shooting software that ran for 20 min. and told what, if anything, was wrong with your computer. It said my CPU's were failed in the beginning....which is false because my computer ran just fine prior. He seemed to know right away that all it needed was to be recallibrated. And he was right!

Heat sensors

Does anyone know if mac pro has heat sensors for the cpu or hard drives?
G4 Dual 1.25, mac pro 3.66 Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Wow I was expecting hot temps such as 60-80C just
like the MB and MBP
thanks i'm gonna test one today and see if i want
one
Hi Graeme43,
Today t° is higher:
http://peloche.smugmug.com/photos/93434559-L.jpg
Peloche

G4 MDD and WD SATA Drive Connection

G4 MDD and WD SATA Drive Connection
My G4: G4 MDD firewire 400 model, Single 1.25 - Dual Boot. Running OS 10.3.9 and 9.2.2
I just ordered parts from OWC, on their way here. Sorry about ALL these questions but I'm new to this.
I purchase a Firmtek Seritek 1S2 controller card and 2 WD SATA Internal Drives. A - WD 640 GB SATA HD "For my Boot Drive", and a - WD 320GB SATA HD that I will use for a Scratch Drive.
Question 1 :
The Seritek 1S2 is a 2 port "1.5GB" Card. My 2 new Drives are set to "3GB".
Will I have to change the "Jumper Settings" on the Hard Drives for this Card?
Do you know what pins to but the jumper block on?
Question 2 :
For Power connection I also, purchased 2 - 15 pin to 4 pin power Adapters, so I wouldn't have to put the drives in upside down for better alignment for mounting the screws in the cages.
The WD Drives come with both the 4 pin connection and the 15 pin connection for power. Would using the power Adapters be alright? Is there any difference with power consumption from the HD's to the 4 pin Molex in the G4? Does this setup work alright with my machine's power requirements? And the H.D's power requirements? OR, is it better/safer to just stick with the G4's 4 pin Molex connector and put the drives in upside down?
Question 3 :
I also purchased 2 - 18" Data cables 90 degree Left Angle, so I won't have a problem closing the door on my G4.
Which left angle end goes where for this? On the HD's or the Card?
I will be putting the 640 GB in the Rear Cage and the 320 GB in the Front Cage.
Each Cage Holds 2 drives each. For better heat protection, should I put the drives in the outer or inner drive carrier slots?
Question 4 :
I'd figure I would place the 1S2 Card in the Third PCI slot. Does it matter which slot to put the card in?
Question 5 :
I plan on Cloning my original 80 GB drive to my new 640 GB drive. I would be using Super Duper for this. After that I will be putting my 80 GB dive in a external firewire case I also purchased, to use it as a back up.
I was told I should keep the 80 GB drive in my G4 and Clone the drive to the new drive using Disk Utility that is in my 80 GB drive already. Using Disk Utility to Partition my drives then Format the drives both journeled. Would that work alright? Or do I have to use the Boot CD to do that?
Then I would use Super Duper to clone. Then choose the new cloned drive in system profiler to start up on that drive to see if everything is OK. Then reset the pram, and then I can remove my 80 GB to put in the case for backups. Does this sound like a good procedure to do?
Sorry for all the questions! But, this is the first time I'm doing anything like this. I would really appreciate any help I could get with these questions before I start doing this. Thanks!

Do you mean making 3 Partitions on the 640? 1- OS and Apps, 2 - 50-80 GB Free Space for Swap Files or do you mean Project files, such as Starting a Photoshop or Video File? Is that what you mean? And a third partition to store my other Data files?
With a second drive dedicated to scratch, I would install the OS and all applications on one partition. If the total software requirements are 50GB, I would make a 100-150GB partition. I think larger would be better, so as software and OS needs don't overlap as software is running. The 50-80GB free space is *included with* the OS and applications.
With the remaining 450-500GB, I would leave as one partition for all project files and data to be placed on. If one type of file dominates all other, for instance, photo files, I might consider splitting that remainder for a dedicated photo file volume, with a third partition for the rest.
When deciding on the OS/App's partition size, try to anticipate near future software install. Don't want to run out of room.
For instance, I have a SATA WD Raptor as my boot drive. OS and applications only, with approx 60GB of OS and software, and the rest free space (of the formatted 140GB total of the 150GB drive.
On a second drive, a SATA WD 640GB, I have three partitions- 100GB for data, documents, mail, etc., one 300GB for photos, and one 200GB for music.
A third drive, a SATA 300GB Maxtor, is used for PS scratch, as a target for scans, music file encoding, target for downloads, any file that is "temporary" in nature. When work is done, the files are moved to the respective locations, and the drive is cleared.
I also have a fourth ATA Seagate 120GB drive, that I keep OS 9, 10.3, 10.4 and 10.5 each on a respective partition, with necessary and OS specific applications for each OS. This serves as my troubleshooting/emergency boot volume.
This helps keep me organized, and allows plenty of free space for system operation.
There are lots of different ways to set up ones drives, but I find that my current setup gives me the desired performance and keeps me from getting cluttered.
A final note, with whatever setup you create, have the appropriate sized external drives for backups of all drive volumes. I use firewire and eSATA connected SATA WD 640GB, ATA Seagate 500GB, and an ATA Maxtor 160GB for cloning all my files, systems and app's.

KM4M-V + SATA Drive, Hangs at Boot, Tried IDE Drive and During Setup, Powers Off

I bought 2 KM4M-V boards to upgrade my ailing 1880+ systems. Then realized I needed DDR as well so went back for that and also decided to update CPU's to Sempron 2600+. Also picked up Seagate 80Gb SATA and a 350 watt PSU (Alaska ATX 350 P4) which was recommened for this board by the dealer.
I am having so much trouble I am about to throw in the towel. Since I am 'upgrading' everything in the system except the CDRom drive I should have just started all over with 64-bit systems but now I am kind of stuck since it is over 30 days ago I got the MB's.
Problem 1:
Using only the single SATA drive I never could get past the DMI Pool data line in Setup, it would just hang there. I read all about how to deal with SATA drives with this or similar boards here. SATA is enabled in BIOS but I can never get to the F6 load drivers step to try that. If I remove the SATA cable Setup will procede so it is something with the Seagate possibly? No jumpers needed and no preparation done to the drive. BIOS does not see the drive but the setup RAID utility does see it but says I cannot set up single drive as RAID of course, but it does report proper data about the drive. Never can get past Bios POST with SATA drive hooked up (channel 0 or 1)
Finally gave up on that and ran into Problem 2:
Put an older IDE drive in as only HD and XP Windows setup gets cranking along coping files then the system just dies. Like some pulled the plug suddenly. Happen every time. I checked for heat problems. Even ran through memory tests (SIMMTESTER), tried swapping cables, plugs and wall circuits. It dies every time no matter what.
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

Quote from: Fredrik Åsenius on 24-November-05, 05:57:01
DMI pool data? When changing mobo but keeping hard disk one should do a repair install of Windows and install the mobo drivers for the new mobo.
I originally wanted to keep the Windows install but decided to remove original C drive and save for eventual D drive use. A repair install warns you that your 'My Documents' folder 'may' be deleted and I didn't want to risk it as I have years and years of photos I didn't want to risk losing.
Quote
Addit: Seems something isn't right in the IDE configuration, or what Windows think is the config.
Bios is happy with WD drive as single master on one channel and CDRom as single master on the other (No jumper on Drive- osnavi). Windows install starts out just fine with my intention of creating a new partition but then it just BOOM, power off. My preference is to use the new SATA Baracuda as system drive and my old IDE C drive as D drive...

Heat Sensor on SATA Drive (iMac G5)

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