Heat sink part # for Dual 1 GIg QUicksilver . . .

Is this a correct heat sink # ? 805-3096 B ?
(Thought it was 805-3706)
Anyone?

Thats the official part number of the kit including the springs, but the heat sinks also have a white tag on the bottom with a part number.
I have one I pulled from a dual 1gig QS and it reads 805-3706 (white tag)
Any clues as to the these white tags with numbers on the bottoms of the heat sinks?

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I need a heat sink/fan for p7-1254

my desktop is getting really loud and i need to replace the fan and possibly also the heat sink, but i dont know what to search for. Can you help me?!
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Here it is on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-P7-Desktop-CPU-Cooling-Fan-Heatsink-644724-001-/360760738117?pt=LH_Defaul...
Part No. 644724-001
HP is out of stock at partsurfer
If this is "the Answer" please click "Accept as Solution" to help others find it.

Heat Sink Screw for V40z Opteron Daughter Board

Would anyone know where to get a Heat Sink Screw Assembly for a V40z Opteron Daughter board?
It's the Type A, with external threads on the spring assembly and internal threads on the standoff. see
http://docs.sun.com/source/817-5248-20/chapter4.html#83890

Re: Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)
created by PlotinusVeritas in MacBook Pro - View the full discussion
This solved my question This helped me
And why again are you worried about re-applying thermal paste to the heat sink to CPU on logic, ...since youve already indicated the logic board is fried....?
I assume you got a new logic and are asking about grabbing some white thermal paste off Ebay.....or?
... or I'm basically seeking the opinions of more experienced members of the Community (such as yourself ) that can verify my attempt to personally fix the device are not worth it, and are better left to Apple's Geniuses.
Actually, I haven't gotten a new logic board yet. More or less, I was taking it apart for inspectional purposes only. I wasn't intending to remove the heat sink, but the thermal paste was already worn out. I am not sure if the logic board is fried, though after examining the whole laptop some more, the previous owner may have tried to do some fixing/upgrading and failed (foam missing, a bracket for the HDD missing also). I was examining the logic board to determine if there have been any liquid damages to the machine - none found, to the best of my knowledge.

Heat sink single vs dual?

Here is what I've seen as far as identifying the heatsinks:
Thick finned "heavy" heatsink:
-Single cpu the contact side of the heatsink is a square with a corner cut off.
-Dual cpu the contact side of the heatsink is a true square
Thin finned "light weight" heatsink
-Single cpu the contact side of the heatsink is a square with a corner cut off.
-Dual = I have not personally inspected one yet?
Anyone know if the thin finned heatsink for the dual processor has a true square contact or is cut off at one of the corners?
here is a pic of the heatsink with the cutoff corner and the sight seems to point to it being a factory installed heatsink for a dual unit? http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/mddcopper_heatsink_swap/mdd_copper_heatsinkswap.html
I have a few of the thinned heatsinks with the slash (as opposed to the thick one with the true square taken from a dual cpu unit) I'd like to know if the thinned ones came in only one style (with the corner cut) or if there is a thin finned unit with a square contact for use with dual cpus.
Message was edited by: Patrick Bagdasarian

Yes, but the thick finned had two versions, one with a square bottom to contact the dual cpus (I've personally pulled these and looked) & one with a square with one of the corners cut off for the single cpus (pulled and verified also).
Did the thin finned one have this variation on the underside?
Can I post pics here to show? tell me how?

How Should My Heat Sink Gel Look?

Hey all,
Is this enough heat sink gel for my fan fixture to board connection?
I was having problems with overheating while gaming, so I took my fan fixture out and cleaned it out real well. Doing this required me to pull it away from the board, and I'm not sure if I should have cleaned the heat sink gel off and re-applied some new.
Here are some photos of how the physical connection looks. I simply put it back and place, and here I am typing to you now:
http://rosshardy.com/files/images/IMG_2241.JPG
http://rosshardy.com/files/images/IMG_2240.JPG
Thanks!
Ross
P.S., my warrenty already expired (I'm aware that I would have voided it).

lead_org's idea of useing a credit-card or similar tool to spread the compound is a good idea.
My idea of iceing on a cake was a bit vague I suppose. The point was an even thin layer, liberally applied to fill the neccesary imperfections, yet thin enough to not be wasteful.
This excerpt from the Wikipedia artical on "Thermal Grease" may enlighten things a bit for all in question. There's more for those technically interested on the Wikipedia web site; referrenced via the link above, but I think the notes below should suffice enough info for the average person.
Purpose
Thermal grease is primarily used in the electronics and computer industries to assist a heatsink to draw heat away from a semiconductor component such as an integrated circuit or transistor.
Thermally conductive paste improves the efficiency of a heatsink by filling air gaps that occur when the irregular surface of a heat generating component is pressed against the irregular surface of a heatsink, air being approximately 8000 times less efficient at conducting heat (see Thermal conductivity) than, for example, aluminium, a common heatsink material.[2] Surface imperfections inherently arise from limitations in manufacturing technology and range in size from visible and tactile flaws such as machining marks or casting irregularities to sub-microscopic ones not visible to the naked eye.
As such, both the thermal conductivity and the "conformability" (i.e., the ability of the material to conform to irregular surfaces) are the important characteristics of thermal grease.
Both high power handling transistors, like those in a conventional audio amplifier, and high speed integrated circuits, such as the central processing unit (CPU) of a personal computer, generate sufficient heat to require the use of thermal grease in addition to the heatsink. High temperatures cause semiconductors to change their switching properties to the point of failure while CPU power dissipation overheating causes logic errors as heat raises electrical resistance on the multi-nanometer wide circuits of the CPU core.[3]
Applying and removing
Computer processor heatsinks utilize a variety of designs to promote better thermal transfer between components. Flat and smooth surfaces may use a small line method to apply material, and exposed heat-pipe surfaces will be best prepared with multiple lines.[4]
Because thermal grease's thermal conductivity is poorer than the metals they couple, it is important to use no more than is necessary to exclude air gaps. Excess grease separating the metal surfaces further will only degrade conductivity, increasing the chances of overheating. It should also be noted that silver-based thermal grease can also be slightly electrically conductive. If excess were to flow onto the circuits, it could cause a short circuit.
The preferred way to remove typical silicone oil-based thermal grease from a component or heat sink is by using isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). If none is available, pure acetone is also a valid method of removal. There are also purpose made cleaners for removing and purifying the surfaces of the contacts.
HTH.....
Regards,
Visible_Spirit

Best cleaning steps for g4 processor and heat sink?

I just pick up a dual 800 quicksilver cpu. What is the least expensive/best way to clean the die surfaces as well as the heat sink surfaces? Also does anyone know a link showing stable higher than originally rated speeds?

Hi pheidius-
The surface description is odd- I would expect it to be smooth (as all heatsink surfaces I have seen).
You may be correct on the thermal pad. It would be the only logical explanation..... I've never really "dissected" a thermal pad before- just scraped them off and tossed 'em.
If it is a thermal pad, you may have clearance problems with just thermal compound. This is, of course, dependant on the thickness of the previous pad......Just check the heatsink and it's contact on the processor after you have finished cleaning the thermal pad from the heatsink. It should be obvious if there will be clearance problems.
Recommended removal proceedure for a thermal pad is to use a plastic card (like a credit card) or a plastic putty knife.
When replacing thermal pads, after the old is completely removed, the heatsink surface needs to be heated until hot to the touch (use a heat gun), and then apply the new pad, pushing the pad on firmly and evenly.
Note: When using thermal pads, wait until the heatsink and pad are cool before removing the protective paper and installing on the processors.
If you end up using thermal compound, carefully apply the compound. Getting sloppy, and applying too much, especially with Arctic Silver, can cause problems. The compound is not just thermally conductive.......it is also electrically conductive.
Back to the overclocking question- This article may be of interest.

T60/T60P Heat Sink Compount (thermal Grease, Thermal Compound) Part numbers?

Anyone have a part number for the heatsink Compound for the Cpu Grease? Also, can the little patches of heat sink putty be purchased as well for the video and support chips?

aftermarket one is okay, the OEM one is around 70 USD for 2 ml or something, not really worth it.
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

Best fan for this heat sink?

best fan for this heat sink?
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=35-109-118&depa=0
ty in advanced

Snakexor,
Hard to tell.
It really depends on your tolerance to noise and/or your goals - OC, pimped out rig, etc.
I usually prefer something on the silent side. SilenX were good for me, pretty quiet. I have XP90 though, XP-120 doesn't fit neo2.
Check out these guys:
http://heatsinkfactory.com/cgi-bin/HFAstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=HS-004
They usually know what they are talking about. There are 3 fans suggested with XP-120 there.
Hope this helps.....

Larger heat sink for blue and white

AAargh. I bought a couple of g4 500 zif/s for a couple of blue and whites. I popped of the heatclip and installed the new zif. Then when I popped the clip back on one of the little white protuberances designed to hold the clip just crumbled to pieces. Does anyone know if there was a heat sink made that used the two wider potential clip points on either side of the one that broke?

Aha! Gotcha.. that certainly makes better sense now. I had removed the card to check the labels on the chipset and saw that it had the ATI Rage Pro 3D chipset, which now makes better sense as well after having read those articles that you posted links to. After reading your post I removed the Rage 128 just to test the Xclaim by itself (I had already run all of the updates for Panther last night, so I already had the 10.3.9 combo installed). Sure enough, the card works perfectly now AND shows 4MB of VRAM in System Profiler as it should. Seeing that and knowing that the maximum for this card is 8MB, I will be switching back to the Rage 128, although I will probably leave the Xclaim installed for nostalgia (that and I have no other use for it at present). That ebay link presents another question though.. the seller of that card indicates that the video-in is not supported under OSX. I'm wondering if that is true. The seller also indicates that the maximum additional memory that can be installed is 2MB, which is obviously NOT true, so I'm curious to find out if they are misinformed about the video-in as well.
Either way though, problem solved! Thank you for the research. I'll be honest, I didn't even think about searching through Apple's knowledge database. At the time, it didn't seem like the kind of problem that would affect a large number of machines.
edit: Haha! while I was typing this, the screensaver came on. I have it set on Flurry, and it's DEAD SLOW on the Xclaim! I will definitely be switching back to the more powerful Rage 128 now .
Message was edited by: SundanceCody

Heat sink for Zc702 boards?

Dear Colleague,
Thanking you all for all your help.
I am interested to know if there is there is any reason why a heat sink has not been included on
ZYNQ-7 ZC702 Evaluation Board (xc7z020clg484-1) xc7z020clg484 -chip, unlike if you see at Zedboard, there is a heat sink!!
I would be glad to have a heat sink at ZYNQ-7 ZC702 Evaluation Board (xc7z020clg484-1), is it possible to get this device with heat sink. We have plans to buy 10 of this device.
Regards

The heat sink required as per Power consumption & thermal requirements. For running the factory supplied ZC702 reference designs, the device junction temperature is below operating temperature (85 degree C is data sheet specification for commercial grade chips). So ZC702 evaluation kit did not supplied with heat sink.
FYI: To understand more about Heat sink requirement/selection theory please refer http://www.xilinx.com/support/documentation/white_papers/wp258.pdf

CPU fan recommendations for dual 800 Quicksilver

It never rains but it pours.
Just a few hours after posting about HD heat issues my CPU fan has gotten really noisy with a slight rattling noise. Yes, it is the CPU fan. Maybe it's the hot weather we are having causing something to expand, or maybe the cleaning I gave it yesterday with compressed air pushed it over the edge. Anyway, I removed the fan, lubricated it with one drop 3M oil under the sticker, replaced it. All dust and dirt is off the blades. I have poked and prodded it to see if there were other items vibrating (e.g., the famous screws touching something), but nothing changes. The sporadic rattling (sometimes disappears for half a minute or so but usually there) really suggests to me that a bearing might be going. At this stage I think it is time to go shopping for a new fan.
This is a dual processor machine of the early QS series so it's like a toaster inside and I'm not sure if any of the standard QS fan recommendations apply to a dual. Of course I want everything - high CFM and silence. I found a lengthy discussion from last December talking about a single processor replacement but I thought I'd solicit current recommendations, especially for dual processor.
Thanks

The specs aren't too hard to find; I just searched: " Sunon PMD1206PTB1". Google brought me to a Sunon site.
http://www.tmcscsi.com/Sunon.shtml
the above link doesn't seem to work as a link, but when I type it into my address bar, it works fine. Go figure!
which tells all. The KDE1206PTV1 fan is a different series and rated at 23.5cfm and 33.5 dBA, which I think we knew; it also runs somewhat slower and draws about half the current. More importantly, there are probably half a dozen 60X60X25mm fans of either the PMD or KDE series that would fit, and would push more or less air at more or less noise. What it doesn't tell is what your ear would call an acceptable compromise. In general, of course, more cfm, more dBA. It also doesn't tell how these stats compare to other brands; I ran it all down at one time, and it's a rather laborious process, but it can be done. I didn't have any frame of reference, so it was all just numbers to me; I set the whole matter aside until just now with your inquiry.
I wouldn't worry about the connectors too much; I fit QS fans to the DA model and wind up connecting them with Molex plugs and no problems. The replaced SilenX fan had three wires, of which only two were used, and it worked. Most PCs use a third wire to turn the fan off or on, or up and down, or something - which Apple doesn't. N.B. If you use the Molex connector, you will note that the red (5v) wire plugs into the yellow (12v) socket; not to worry - it spozed to. The PMD fan I got came with two wires, bared at the ends, but no connector(s). I wound up jury-rigging the connexion. PC accessory houses that sell fans also sell wire adapters of dozens of configurations, just search. My two favourite such houses are Xoxide.com and pcToys.com. I think I got the Sunon fan(s) from Allied Electric (alliedelec.com) for about $12 and $12 s&h, which is a minimum figure. You can ship multiple fans for that.
Sunon says its fans work on the Mag-Lev principle, so lubrication wouldn't help much. What would hurt would be an unbalanced fan, so it might help to clean the crud off the blades - evenly, if possible.
I keep wondering what a slot fan would do to cooling and noise, but that may be a thought better postponed. First should be getting the CPU acceptably cool. I also understand it helps cooling if you clip some of the grillwork in front of or behind the fans (power supply fans, especially).
Just a few thoughts ..... Jon

Dancing pixels, new heat sink, then no video at all

I have an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro video card with a 23" Cinema Display and a 15" Cinema display running from a Geffen ADC/VGA adapter. I'm have a dual 500MGHz G4 running OS 10.4. It started off as the dancing pixels on the screen. A few green spots here and there, then it got worse. Then there were green and red bands up and down my monitors. I opened up the case and saw that the fan on the heat sink had broken off. I bought an aftermarket fan and heat sink and installed it with no problems. When I booted up the computer there was an ATI icon on the main display where the apple logo usually is. There was also a part of the logo that was blinking red. Maybe it meant that the power supply was inadequate but I don't know. Then the computer froze on that logo. I tried to reboot a couple more times but then the computer just wouldn't boot at all. Anyone else have this problem?
AL

It's OK- happens to the best!
Unfortunately, the continuing screen artifacts could be caused by heat damage to the GPU done while the old fan was down. Heat damage to the chip is usually irreversible.
As for the second monitor, it also could be a victim of heat damage to the card. Does the monitor show when you "detect monitors", either in System Preferences/Displays, or the ATI Control panel?
And, you have verified that all your connections are secure?

Cleaning heat sink on Macbook Pro Retina after liquid spill... HELP!

Hello all...
My wonderful boyfriend spilled about 3-4 tablespoons of orange juice on my Macbook Pro Retina (15in) on Thursday. Right over the left speaker and onto the ESC, ~, brightness up and down, 1, 2, 3, TAB, Q, W, Caps Lock, and A key. It also dripped down and got into the vent. I immediately (like within 1 second) grabbed it and turned it upside down, and wiped it up while holding it upside down. I then turned it off and held it upside down for some time, and let it sit open and off after that. I turned it back on the next day and had no apparent issues. (However today some of the keys have been "crunchy", so I think I better clean them...)
I couldn't get it to the Apple store until yesterday because of Hurricane Sandy and not having power or anything. I had the genius check it out. He could only take off the back without having to charge me anything and he said that none of the liquid sensors were tripped in the back of the computer but that there was some dried up orange juice in the heat sink (but apparently not really anywhere else which he said makes me the luckiest person in the world). He took a photo on his phone and showed me... just some residue and orange juice that looked "dried up" in like 5 or 6 of the vents. He said that I could try to clean it myslf with alchohol wipes and a toothpick at my own risk. But I am very nervous as I am not exactly tech savvy... I watched videos on how to take the back off, but the part about disconnecting the battery and all gets me nervous. My question is, do I have to disconnect the battery to just gently clean up the heat sink with a little toothpick and alchohol wipes? Do I have to ground myself? What do I do?
Also, how necessary do you think it is to even clean it up? Could the heat sink need to be replaced in the future from this? Is it really a big deal? I'm looking for honest answers, since I felt like the genuis guy had too much liabality to say anything to me about anything.
Unrelated, what are the chances that liquid got through the keyboard to anything more sensitive to liquid? The genius couldnt really give me an answer. I have noticed just as I am typing now that sometimes it seems that the cursor of where I am typing will just jump back to the end of the previous line when I hit the Caps Lock key... it's very strange and I'm getting agita just thinking about it. Could that be a problem with just my keys getting stuck somewhere or a bigger problem with hardware being damaged... help and THANK YOU!

When i start any game the CPU goes up to 90° in 2 minutes and the computer shutdown after at least 5 min.
I found a solution. after a lot of research i checked that my fans are working on the minimum means at 2000 rpm even when the games are on. so i install it a software called smcFancontrol that u can control ur fan speed and i make it up to 4000 pm (you can do it with iStat menu too) and i tested my computer. I Have been playing on my macbook pro since this morning and there is no problem of overheat or shutdown.
Is it normal that we need to change the fan configuration or control to play a game that was working fine before.?
for cooling my machine i have a mStand Rain design http://www.raindesigninc.com/pic_high%20res/mstand_macbookpro_keyboard_perspecti ve_unibody.jpg

Where can I source parts for my PowerMac G4s for cheap?

Hi there Apple fans! I've recently purchased 2 PowerMac G4s off of craigslist, a MDD and a Quicksilver for a school project andtheir missing a lot of parts. A list of parts includes hard drives, power supplies, ram sticks, disc drives, etc. Is there any website that I can find these parts for cheap besides eBay and Amazon? Thank you in advance!

As far as PSUs...
You can convert an ATX PSU for use on a G4...
http://atxg4.com/sawtooth.html
http://atxg4.com/gige-da.html
http://atxg4.com/quicksilver.html
http://atxg4.com/mdd.html
http://atxg4.com/
RAM...
http://eshop.macsales.com/MyOWC/?StartOver=1

Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)

I recently acquired a mid-2012 MacBook Pro that is in need of repair. The device was advertised by the seller as needing repair, and I wanted to experiment in repairing such a problem.
The MBP suffered the symptoms of a failed logic board - no power, LEDs don't light up on either the side of the Mac or the MagSafe Adapter. Per the tutorial on Ifixit.com, I took a look inside the laptop and was able to safely remove the logic board. As I examined the heat sink and the thermal paste connecting it to the processor, I found that the paste had completely dried up. In other words, as I completed part 3 of Step 27 ("Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor."), the heat sink could be removed immediately after I unscrewed it from the logic board - no need to use the spudger to loosen the paste. While examining the interior, the battery also seemed to have signs of wear (the screw tab closest to the optical drive appears cracked); no damage/leakage of battery cells detected.
What are my options at this point? Will it be worth it if I try to clean the old paste from the heat sink & processor, then reapply as instructed (on ifixit.com or other reputable DIY repair sites)? Or, because the battery is slightly damaged in addition to the lack of processor-to-heat sink connectivity, would it be easier/better in the long run to make an appointment at my nearest Apple Store for a Genius Bar consultation?
Thanks for any advice & comments!

Re: Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)
created by PlotinusVeritas in MacBook Pro - View the full discussion
This solved my question This helped me
And why again are you worried about re-applying thermal paste to the heat sink to CPU on logic, ...since youve already indicated the logic board is fried....?
I assume you got a new logic and are asking about grabbing some white thermal paste off Ebay.....or?
... or I'm basically seeking the opinions of more experienced members of the Community (such as yourself ) that can verify my attempt to personally fix the device are not worth it, and are better left to Apple's Geniuses.
Actually, I haven't gotten a new logic board yet. More or less, I was taking it apart for inspectional purposes only. I wasn't intending to remove the heat sink, but the thermal paste was already worn out. I am not sure if the logic board is fried, though after examining the whole laptop some more, the previous owner may have tried to do some fixing/upgrading and failed (foam missing, a bracket for the HDD missing also). I was examining the logic board to determine if there have been any liquid damages to the machine - none found, to the best of my knowledge.

Heat sink part # for Dual 1 GIg QUicksilver . . .

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