Heat sink single vs dual?

Here is what I've seen as far as identifying the heatsinks:
Thick finned "heavy" heatsink:
-Single cpu the contact side of the heatsink is a square with a corner cut off.
-Dual cpu the contact side of the heatsink is a true square
Thin finned "light weight" heatsink
-Single cpu the contact side of the heatsink is a square with a corner cut off.
-Dual = I have not personally inspected one yet?
Anyone know if the thin finned heatsink for the dual processor has a true square contact or is cut off at one of the corners?
here is a pic of the heatsink with the cutoff corner and the sight seems to point to it being a factory installed heatsink for a dual unit? http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/mddcopper_heatsink_swap/mdd_copper_heatsinkswap.html
I have a few of the thinned heatsinks with the slash (as opposed to the thick one with the true square taken from a dual cpu unit) I'd like to know if the thinned ones came in only one style (with the corner cut) or if there is a thin finned unit with a square contact for use with dual cpus.
Message was edited by: Patrick Bagdasarian

Yes, but the thick finned had two versions, one with a square bottom to contact the dual cpus (I've personally pulled these and looked) & one with a square with one of the corners cut off for the single cpus (pulled and verified also).
Did the thin finned one have this variation on the underside?
Can I post pics here to show? tell me how?

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Heat sink part # for Dual 1 GIg QUicksilver . . .

Is this a correct heat sink # ? 805-3096 B ?
(Thought it was 805-3706)
Anyone?

Thats the official part number of the kit including the springs, but the heat sinks also have a white tag on the bottom with a part number.
I have one I pulled from a dual 1gig QS and it reads 805-3706 (white tag)
Any clues as to the these white tags with numbers on the bottoms of the heat sinks?

Best cleaning steps for g4 processor and heat sink?

I just pick up a dual 800 quicksilver cpu. What is the least expensive/best way to clean the die surfaces as well as the heat sink surfaces? Also does anyone know a link showing stable higher than originally rated speeds?

Hi pheidius-
The surface description is odd- I would expect it to be smooth (as all heatsink surfaces I have seen).
You may be correct on the thermal pad. It would be the only logical explanation..... I've never really "dissected" a thermal pad before- just scraped them off and tossed 'em.
If it is a thermal pad, you may have clearance problems with just thermal compound. This is, of course, dependant on the thickness of the previous pad......Just check the heatsink and it's contact on the processor after you have finished cleaning the thermal pad from the heatsink. It should be obvious if there will be clearance problems.
Recommended removal proceedure for a thermal pad is to use a plastic card (like a credit card) or a plastic putty knife.
When replacing thermal pads, after the old is completely removed, the heatsink surface needs to be heated until hot to the touch (use a heat gun), and then apply the new pad, pushing the pad on firmly and evenly.
Note: When using thermal pads, wait until the heatsink and pad are cool before removing the protective paper and installing on the processors.
If you end up using thermal compound, carefully apply the compound. Getting sloppy, and applying too much, especially with Arctic Silver, can cause problems. The compound is not just thermally conductive.......it is also electrically conductive.
Back to the overclocking question- This article may be of interest.

Dancing pixels, new heat sink, then no video at all

I have an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro video card with a 23" Cinema Display and a 15" Cinema display running from a Geffen ADC/VGA adapter. I'm have a dual 500MGHz G4 running OS 10.4. It started off as the dancing pixels on the screen. A few green spots here and there, then it got worse. Then there were green and red bands up and down my monitors. I opened up the case and saw that the fan on the heat sink had broken off. I bought an aftermarket fan and heat sink and installed it with no problems. When I booted up the computer there was an ATI icon on the main display where the apple logo usually is. There was also a part of the logo that was blinking red. Maybe it meant that the power supply was inadequate but I don't know. Then the computer froze on that logo. I tried to reboot a couple more times but then the computer just wouldn't boot at all. Anyone else have this problem?
AL

It's OK- happens to the best!
Unfortunately, the continuing screen artifacts could be caused by heat damage to the GPU done while the old fan was down. Heat damage to the chip is usually irreversible.
As for the second monitor, it also could be a victim of heat damage to the card. Does the monitor show when you "detect monitors", either in System Preferences/Displays, or the ATI Control panel?
And, you have verified that all your connections are secure?

Dancing pixels, new heat sink, then no video

I have an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro video card with a 23" Cinema Display and a 15" Cinema display running from a Geffen ADC/VGA adapter. I'm have a dual 500MGHz G4 running OS 10.4. It started off as the dancing pixels on the screen. A few green spots here and there, then it got worse. Then there were green and red bands up and down my monitors. I opened up the case and saw that the fan on the heat sink had broken off. I bought an aftermarket fan and heat sink and installed it with no problems. When I booted up the computer there was an ATI icon on the main display where the apple logo usually is. There was also a part of the logo that was blinking red. Maybe it meant that the power supply was inadequate but I don't know. Then the computer froze on that logo. I tried to reboot a couple more times but then the computer just wouldn't boot at all. Anyone else have this problem?
AL

The red logo means you didn't connect the auxiliary power cable to the graphics board.

How to make 260 gtx 55nm VRM custom heat sink

Warning: This will void your warranty
The caveat above added by Mike, Forum Administrator
How to Create a Custom 260 GTX 55nm VRM Heat Sink
Introduction: This guide was created to show how you can make a custom VRM heat sink from the stock heat sink to be used with an aftermarket cooler.
Reason: Many aftermarket companies, such as Thermalright and Arctic, fail to provide a good VRM heat sink for the 55nm 200 series GTX’s. The solution often involves poorly sticking thermal tape or no solution at all, such as the Arctic cooler, which states it’s ok to leave the 260 GTX 55nm VRM chips uncovered. To leave the VRM chipset uncovered maybe ok for stock clocked cards but what about an over clocked card or an enthusiast trying to push the performance envelope? That is after all, what these aftermarket cooling solutions are all about; especially the Arctic cooler which can cool up to 250 watts! Fortunately the solution is very easy and should take you no more than 10 to 15 minutes to address.
Use: To create a custom made VRM heat sink to be used with an aftermarket cooling solution such as the Arctic cooler and Thermalright cooler.
Tools:
Dremel, with metal cutting wheel and sanding wheel.
Thermal Pads, which you can buy in sheets from any performance pc store and should be 1.0 mm in thickness.
Philips Screw Driver, very small size would be ideal.
Before we begin I’d like to remind you that removing or tampering with the stock heat sink will more than likely void your warranty. This guide was also constructed assuming an aftermarket cooler will be installed. The card used in this guide is a MSI 260 GTX 55nm with reference PCB design (REV 1) but will also work with other 200 series GTX cards. When working on any electronic device, always make sure you are well grounded!!!
Step 1: Remove the screws with the springs only from the back side of the graphics card as shown in figure 1A. There is a total of 13 spring screws that need to be removed. Check to make sure that your card does not have two small additional securing screws which are located on the exhaust side of your graphics card with your DVI ports. If your card does contain these additional screws, remove them before continuing on to step 2.
Step 2: Gently work the card from the heat sink. NOTE: Do NOT force or pry heavily, you will damage your card. It may take a little caressing depending on how much poor quality thermal putty was used from the manufacturer.
Step 3: Remove the fan power connector from the fan power port as shown in figure 2A.
Step 4: Remove and discard all the old thermal pads. You should never re-use thermal pads and especially not the low quality manufacturer ones! NOTE: keep in mind the location of the VRM thermal pads since you will be making replacements.
Step 5: Clean off the voltage regulator chips with a tissue or with a soft eraser as instructed by Arctic. Personally I use a tissue very lightly dipped in alcohol to clean the surface of the chips. The voltage regulator chips for the 260 GTX 55nm are shown in figure 3A. NOTE: I will not be covering the cleaning of the GPU or Ram since it does not pertain to the VRM heat sink.
Step 6: Flip the heat sink so you are looking at the bottom where the thermal pads were attached. There are 6 very little screws which need to be removed from the assembly. Figure 4A shows the location of the screws attaching the plastic shroud assembly. Once they are removed gently pry the plastic shroud off and set it aside.
Step 7: Now turn the heat sink over and remove the 4 black screws from the top side of the heat sink. The fan should come off freely and set that aside as well. Your heat sink should look like figure 5A.
Step 8: Now we are ready to begin cutting the stock heat sink. With a sharpie draw a black as shown in figure 6A. This will give you a marker to follow when cutting.
Step 9: Attach the metal cutting wheel to the dremel and begin cutting across the black line. Danger: ALWAYS wear eye protection when cutting a metal object or any object. The metal is very soft and not much force is needed to cut it. Try not to damage the mounting holes when cutting (figure 6A). You may need to lightly sand the cut edge depending on how rough or jagged it is after cutting. When you’re done you should have a piece as shown in figure 7A. This will be your VRM heat sink. Important: MAKE SURE you clean the heat sink well and remove all metal particles. Also allow the heat sink to dry well before installing!!
Step 10: Next cut the new thermal pads to the shape of your VRM chips. It should look like figure 8A when you are finished.
Step 11: Gently place the heat sink into place and attach the screws. When you are done it should look like figure 9A.
Congratulations on your custom made VRM heat sink. The great thing is that it never has the risk of falling off, such as thermal taped ones, and can be removed and installed as many times as you wish. It also does not contain thermal adhesives which also do not facilitate removal as well. The stock spring screws will also insure secure contact between the VRM chips and the sink. The custom heat sink comes with nicely built in fins and much better cooling performance then individual dinky VRM heat sinks provided from the Arctic or Thermalright coolers.
p.s. It is possible to put old heat sink back on the card since each section has its own mounting screws but I would not recommend this unless absolutely necessary.

I'm running a corsair 750 watt PSU
Q660
Gigabyte g31 motherboard
1TB WD Hard drive
OCZ 1066mhz of ram
And I recently swapped the lighting with a gtx 260 and see what would happen in the same system. The GTX260 ran games smoothly, and would run furmark fine with the newest nvidia drivers. Swap back the gtx 275 lightning, and games are really slow and choppy especially when you add any kind of AA. The FPS is literally cut in half when I switched to the msi gtx 275. I think it's safe to say that the GTX275 is defective.

Cleaning heat sink on Macbook Pro Retina after liquid spill... HELP!

Hello all...
My wonderful boyfriend spilled about 3-4 tablespoons of orange juice on my Macbook Pro Retina (15in) on Thursday. Right over the left speaker and onto the ESC, ~, brightness up and down, 1, 2, 3, TAB, Q, W, Caps Lock, and A key. It also dripped down and got into the vent. I immediately (like within 1 second) grabbed it and turned it upside down, and wiped it up while holding it upside down. I then turned it off and held it upside down for some time, and let it sit open and off after that. I turned it back on the next day and had no apparent issues. (However today some of the keys have been "crunchy", so I think I better clean them...)
I couldn't get it to the Apple store until yesterday because of Hurricane Sandy and not having power or anything. I had the genius check it out. He could only take off the back without having to charge me anything and he said that none of the liquid sensors were tripped in the back of the computer but that there was some dried up orange juice in the heat sink (but apparently not really anywhere else which he said makes me the luckiest person in the world). He took a photo on his phone and showed me... just some residue and orange juice that looked "dried up" in like 5 or 6 of the vents. He said that I could try to clean it myslf with alchohol wipes and a toothpick at my own risk. But I am very nervous as I am not exactly tech savvy... I watched videos on how to take the back off, but the part about disconnecting the battery and all gets me nervous. My question is, do I have to disconnect the battery to just gently clean up the heat sink with a little toothpick and alchohol wipes? Do I have to ground myself? What do I do?
Also, how necessary do you think it is to even clean it up? Could the heat sink need to be replaced in the future from this? Is it really a big deal? I'm looking for honest answers, since I felt like the genuis guy had too much liabality to say anything to me about anything.
Unrelated, what are the chances that liquid got through the keyboard to anything more sensitive to liquid? The genius couldnt really give me an answer. I have noticed just as I am typing now that sometimes it seems that the cursor of where I am typing will just jump back to the end of the previous line when I hit the Caps Lock key... it's very strange and I'm getting agita just thinking about it. Could that be a problem with just my keys getting stuck somewhere or a bigger problem with hardware being damaged... help and THANK YOU!

When i start any game the CPU goes up to 90° in 2 minutes and the computer shutdown after at least 5 min.
I found a solution. after a lot of research i checked that my fans are working on the minimum means at 2000 rpm even when the games are on. so i install it a software called smcFancontrol that u can control ur fan speed and i make it up to 4000 pm (you can do it with iStat menu too) and i tested my computer. I Have been playing on my macbook pro since this morning and there is no problem of overheat or shutdown.
Is it normal that we need to change the fan configuration or control to play a game that was working fine before.?
for cooling my machine i have a mStand Rain design http://www.raindesigninc.com/pic_high%20res/mstand_macbookpro_keyboard_perspecti ve_unibody.jpg

Pismo CPU upgrades/heat sink

Does anyone know if the 400 mhz heatsink and 500 mhz heatsink are interchangeable?
PowerMac G4 MDD 1.25 Ghz, PowerBook G3 Pismo 400, Newton 2100, iPod Photo 30 gb Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Hi Gerry:
Are you replacing just the heat sink, or the entire processor daughter-card? If the heat sink and tube only, yes, they are interchangeable. Be sure you apply a thin, even layer of thermal compound on the processor after removal of the old heat sink and before installation of the new.
Good luck.
cornelius
Message was edited by: cornelius

Disconnect battery just to clean heat sink?

I had a minor liquid spill on my retina macbook pro. Took it to apple, genius said everything "appeared" fine except for some residue on the heat sink (it was orange juice). He took a pic on his phone and it showed some dried up orange juice in like 5-6 of the vents. He said I could try to clean it myself with alchohol wipes and toothpicks.
Here is my question - do I need to disconnect the battery or do anything after I open the back, but before I clean the heat sink? I am nervous about doing this as it is, and I am afraid of messing something up.

I thought that corrosion would be a big problem, and the genius told me that the heat sink is made from a coated aluminium and can't corrode... was he wrong?
I am really tight on money (owning a rMBP is way out of my means but I saved up for a long time...) and don't want to have to spend the money to have someone else clean it if it's not really important to the operation or life of the computer or if it's something I can do myself.
Thanks for your input so far!

Question about the heat sinks in these models

Hey all,
Can anyone tell me about the heat sinks used in these model laptops?
Here are my questions:
Are they made from pure copper?
What is inside the tubes that run between the processor covers and the fan? Is it just air? or something else?
Is the thermal paste that sticks to the processors toxic?
I'm not sure this is the right place to ask but thought i might as well try.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

you mean the entire T series range, or are you after information on a specific T model?
1) most of the parts are made of pure copper
2) there is a working fluid within heat pipe, which should either ethanol or acetone. The phase change from liquid to gaseous phase is what transports the heat away from CPU/GPU/motherboard chipsets.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pipe
3) thermal paste usually contains silicon and silver, it is not to be ingested as such.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_grease
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

Will the single or dual quad be right?

Does some have experience to advise me, which model, the single or dual quad "new" Mac Pro will deliver better results for editing images in Photoshop, Lightroom, Capture NX etc. And how much ram is a minimum for same with the new DDR3 type? Also, I do part time video editing (Final Cut Express). Thanks.

The cpu is smarter than that, and smarter than we are. A lot of things are going on below the surface, and in less than a nono-second is even a stretch in time, and changes. A core doesn't shutdown.
I suggest you actually dig into the technical papers and articles on Nehalem if you want to understand it more thoroughly. I've read that ARS article three times and still get something new with each read. And there are other articles. I feel like 2008 was just waiting and researching the sucessor to Penryn class (Harpertown).
The specials are just that, and they get 'hand tuned' and physically booted before they go out the door and usually have above the base spec listed.
I am not in favor of bleeding edge. Not until there has been one firmware update and one OS patch and time for 3-4 months minimum to flush out problems that surface. Some are still hoping the next OS update fixes issues with Nvidia 8800GT a year after it came out (and yes, drivers take a year of tweaking, Vista has had two years and apps/games and drivers are an ongoing experiment).

The Macbook Pro 13 Retina late 2013 heat sink

Did any body notice the unusual design of heat sink in Macbook Pro 13 Retina late 2013? The heat sink only covers CPU but NOT the iris GPU. I wonder why is it designed like this? The GPU can generate much more heat under certain conditions.

Hi All, sorry about this post, I studied the architecture of Haswell chips, find out the small little one is the PCH not GPU.

Best fan for this heat sink?

best fan for this heat sink?
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=35-109-118&depa=0
ty in advanced

Snakexor,
Hard to tell.
It really depends on your tolerance to noise and/or your goals - OC, pimped out rig, etc.
I usually prefer something on the silent side. SilenX were good for me, pretty quiet. I have XP90 though, XP-120 doesn't fit neo2.
Check out these guys:
http://heatsinkfactory.com/cgi-bin/HFAstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=HS-004
They usually know what they are talking about. There are 3 fans suggested with XP-120 there.
Hope this helps.....

Static/crackling freezes/shuts down Toshiba L300 (already cleaned fan/heat sink)

Was slightly intermittent but pretty much unable to use the computer at this point. The only clues I can give is that there seemed to be 2 errors about usb so wondering if that could cause the static build up that freezes the computer? One was on shut down and the other was after static started and it seemed to be trying to grab a driver (for usb I think) almost as though the device disappeared but then the laptop froze. It wasn't too long ago one of three ports wasn't working but they all work recently (don't recall which one quit for a bit).
Unfortunately I need to fix it myself due to finances. How do I physically disconnect all the usb ports to rule them out? I probably did this when I took out the motherboard to clean the fan/heat sink but I don't know for sure which connection(s) they were.
If I'm way off please provide other suggestions. I REALLY appreciate any help given.

first off, please provide the entire model number of your computer. It is printed on the bottom. do not provide s/n.
Do you have a backup of all your personal data? If not, I would say that should be your priority at this point.
After that has been dealt with, the next question is "did you make restore disks when computer was still working?"
Can you get into recovery menu (spamming f8 on start up). If so, try going into safe mode and restoring the computer to a restore point at a point in time before the problems started.
When you cleaned fan/heat sink, did you reseat the heatsink. If not, you may want to open it back up and reseat the heatsink (i.e., remove old thermal paste and reapply).
L305-S5955, T9300 Intel Core 2 Duo, 4GB RAM, 60GB SSD, Win 7 Ultimate 64-bit

Single or dual 4500e for redundancy

I apologize if this has been asked before, but I haven't been able to find a solid answer when searching.
We're deploying a new datacenter and will have 20 racks of servers, mostly 1u. Given our bandwidth needs which are reasonably modest we're planning on using dual 2960s switches at the top of the racks and aggregating on a single or dual 4500e using 10gig links. The 4500e(s) will also have a bunch of 1gb devices such as firewalls, routers, and load balancers connected to them. Pretty typical network core. Given the need for 40 10gb links to racks and then another 20-or-so 1gb, the 4500e chassis seems to fit the bill.
My question is, do we go with a single 4507e with full redundancy (dual 10gb cards, one link to each from each rack, dual 1gb card, and dual supervisors) or a pair of either 4506e switches each with their own cards. With a virtual chassis the 4506e is appealing, but I'm not up to speed on any limitations that might impose. With IISU and the like does having two physical chassis vs everything in a single actually buy us anything if they're going to be in the same physical proximity anyway? A big reason to go with the single chassis is space - 11 rack units vs 20.
If we do go with a single chasis, other than Cisco's HA docs on the 4500e, is there any documentation or case studies that I could use to sell the idea to management? A number of people, especiailly those in favor of a ton of cheap netgear switches, argue that a single chassis is a single point of failure and we should never do it.
Thanks!

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As you've described, the problem with any single chassis, the chassis itself can become a single point of failure even when loaded with redundant components. Independent chassis (e.g. VSS, StackWise) provide chassis redundancy although it does raise a question on software redundancy, i.e. multiple chassis are running some form of tightly coupled chassis OS vs. standalone chassis. Standalone chassis should be, in theory, the most redundant but they too create issues such as load sharing and asymmetrical path issues (e.g. unicast flooding). If you understand and trust a multi-chassis OS, I personally think it's often the "better" redundancy option.
I don't know if VSS on the 4500s support it, but 6500 VSS supports quad supervisiors, so if you lose a single sup on those you don't lose one of your VSS chassis pair.
Regarding your later post on using a 4500-X VSS pair, yes that might be an idea core for high density 10g. For twenty 10g ports each, you would need either the 16 port with the optional 8 port module or the 32 port model.
Depending on your remote rack setups, you might also consider 3750-Xs, stacked, in lieu of multiple (individual cabinet) ToR 2960S pairs. StackWisePlus is a much better stacking technology then FlexStack. Yes, the 3750-Xs are more expensive, but you might need less if you can bring multiple racks to the same 3750-X stack. (Depending on how many downstream stacks you actually need, you might also reduce your need for 10g ports on the core.) Depending on your feature needs, you might even be able to use the LAN Base models which in the later IOSs also support StackPower.
10g is nice, but it's also expensive. When working with switches within 100m, don't overlook the possibilities of gig copper Etherchannels. For example compare total cost of 8xgig (copper) build-in ports vs. single 10g (fiber) especially if special module is required.

Heat sink single vs dual?

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