Heatsink 1 or Heatsink 2

Hi
A local reseller has quoted me for two possible replacement heatsinks for my HP notebook. Of course they're not able to tell however which one I need except:
For use in AMD UMA computer models 683027-001
For use in AMD discrete computer models 683028-001
How do I find out if my model is AMD UMA or AMD discrete please?

Hi,
No available specs on its homepage:
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Pavilion-g6-Notebook-PC-series/5296082/model/5321890/manuals
Therefore you have to check Device Manager to see what is the video card (or CPU) of your computer and use the following list:
Internal Graphics (UMA):
● AMD Radeon HD 7660G graphics supporting HD decode, DX11, and HDMI for use with computer models equipped with an AMD A10-4600M processor
● AMD Radeon HD 7640G graphics supporting HD decode, DX11, and HDMI for use with computer models equipped with an AMD A8-4500M processor
● AMD Radeon HD 7520G graphics supporting HD decode, DX11, and HDMI for use with computer models equipped with an AMD A6-4400M processor
● AMD Radeon HD 7520G graphics supporting HD decode, DX11, and HDMI for use with computer models equipped with an AMD A4-4300M processor
● AMD Radeon HD 7340 graphics supporting HD decode, DX11, and HDMI for use with computer models equipped with an AMD E2-1800 processor
Switchable Discrete Graphics:
● AMD Radeon HD 7670M with 2 GB of dedicated video memory (128 MB x 16 DDR3 @ 900 MHz x 8 pcs) 128-bit M2 package, supports HD Decode, DX11, HDMI, and PX5
● AMD Radeon HD 7670M with 1 GB of dedicated video memory (64 MB x 16 DDR3 @ 900 MHz x 8 pcs) 128-bit M2 package, supports HD Decode, DX11, HDMI, and PX5
Dual graphics:
● AMD Radeon HD 7660G+HD 7670M Dual Graphics for computer models equipped with an AMD A10-4600M APU and AMD Radeon HD 7670M graphics card
● AMD Radeon HD 7640G+HD 7670M Dual Graphics for computer models equipped with an AMD A8-4500M APU and AMD Radeon HD 7670M graphics card
● AMD Radeon HD 7520G+HD 7670M Dual Graphics for computer models equipped with an AMD A6-4400M APU and AMD Radeon HD 7670M graphics card (no support for 1 DIMM memory)
Regards.
BH
**Click the KUDOS thumb up on the left to say 'Thanks'**
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How do I know if my MBP will benefit from heatsink paste reapplication?

Dear Mac Users
I know the theme of hot MacBook Pro's has been done to death, but I would like to add my two pennyworth with respect to the specific question: How do I know if my MBP will benefit from reapplication of the heatsink compound? I have trawled numerous very long threads here and not found a satisfactory answer. The reapplication of the heatsink paste is a bit of a schlep and not without some risk of breaking it, so it would be good to know if the benefit is worth the risk.
One common question is: "Are my MBP temperatures unusual?". A useful mac temperature database can be found at the following link:
http://www.intelmactemp.com/list
Consulting this list should set some parameter space for many users - there does seem to be considerable variability - suggesting highly variable quality of heat sink paste application by Apple. In my particular case I have an early 2011 MBP (i7, quad core, 2.2GHz). This certainly ran very hot. I even had a burn on my thigh from it, which took a while to heal. I know, they are notebooks, not laptops, but still . . . . To put very hot into perspective, the CPU was sitting at over 60C at idle, and whole case would be hot to the touch, such that resting your hands on it was uncomfortable. And yes, the computer was idling, there were no rogue processes chewing up cycles. At full load, the CPU would run at 90C and the whole thing would get very hot. I avoided running major projects or rendering jobs on it to preserve it from heat fatigue - the warranty is now up.
My first attempt at reducing the temperatures, was to clean it. The clue was in the USB/Firewire etc ports. All were very fluffy, which suggested that there was a lot of crud in the heatsink fins. Fixing this was simple; adopt anti-static precautions; remove the back panel; blow air into the exhaust vents at the base of the screen. Numerous large fluff bunnies popped out of the fans and elsewhere. Alternatively, you can unscrew the two fans and partially lift them out (without removing the power cables to the motherboard). Major fluff on the heatsink fins can then be tweezered out, prior to blowing it through, to ensure all debris is removed. I did this subsequently on my Core 2 Duo MBP. After defluffing the idle i7 CPU temperatures dropped from 60C to 43C, but perhaps of more importance was that the whole case was much cooler and the keyboard temperature was close to ambient - much nicer to use.
So that fixed the major heat problem. However, the question remained, would I see any further improvements by stripping the thing down and reapplying the heatsink paste? What I was looking for in this forum was a rule of thumb based on temperature measurements to help me make an informed decision on whether to strip the thing down. As my machine was out of warranty, I wasn't worried about voiding that. Also, where I am there is zero support (Africa), so Genius Bar or similar was not an option. But jiggering a 14month (very expensive) laptop was not something I wanted to do for thrills. The data in many of the posts did not provide any answers. In the end I made some measurements and decided to do the fix. The step by step instructions I followed were very clear and can be found for many Macs/models at:
http://www.ifixit.com/Device/Mac
This guide made life a lot less stressful, as pulling a connector the wrong way could trash the motherboard, and those connectors are so very tiny and fragile. It is very important to take it slow and follow each step to the letter (and not skip steps inadvertently). My before and after heatsink paste fix temperature data are shown below. The idle temps are improved, while the full load temps look like a marginal improvement. However, CPU temperature is not the only story. Certainly after the fix, the whole case is generally cooler, so the heat extraction system is working better. Also, the CPU before and after temps are quite similar at full load, but that assumes the CPU is running at the same power. I do not know enough about the i7 architecture to say if the before speed was being limited by heat, while in the after case the turbo-boost was able to run out to the maximum. Unfortunately, I didn't do any CPU performance tests. So, based on temperatures alone, it looks like a marginal improvement, but it is certainly making a difference to case temperatures.
Note all temperatures were measured at an ambient temperature of 20C on a flat, hard surface using Marcel Bresink's Temperature Monitor. Fan speed was measured using the Fan Control software - set to allow firmware control at idle.
Apple original heat sink paste - big dollop of grey crud and lots of extrusion at the sides.
Idle
CPU 43C
GPU 38C
Heat Sink 2 36C
Heat Sink 3 35C
Fan Speeds 2000rpm
Full Load (all cores maxed with a Boinc Distributed Computing Project (Rosetta - the project, not the Apple technology).
CPU 89C
GPU 57C
Heat Sink 2 52C
Heat Sink 3 49C
Fan Speeds 6200rpm
Arctic Silver heat sink paste
Idle
CPU 38C
GPU 34C
Heat Sink 2 33C
Heat Sink 3 32C
Fan Speeds 2000rpm
Full Load
CPU 86C
GPU 59C
Heat Sink 2 50C
Heat Sink 3 50C
Fan Speeds 6200rpm
Back to my original question: How do I know if my MBP will benefit from reapplication of the heatsink compound? I think temperatures alone will not give a good answer - mainly because the CPU probably has variable output - due to turbo boost. One thing I did notice is that the temperature response of the CPU when it gets switched to full load, does vary according to the quality of the heatsink paste. With the original Apple paste, when I switched the CPU to full load (from idle) the temperature of the CPU went up to its maximum almost instantaneously and stayed at that level ie the graph of temperature vs time was a step function. This suggests that the CPU may be controlling the temperature by throttling itself. Otherwise, as the heatsink warmed up, the CPU should also rise in temperature - mine stayed bang on 90C and fluctuated only by a degree either side. After application of heat sink paste, the CPU has a much larger effective thermal mass and consequently heats up much more slowly. Turning the CPU up to maximum from idle resulted in the temperature climbing to a maximum over about 3-4s. After peaking at around 92C it dropped back as the fans kicked in, to around 86C.
So perhaps one way of assessing the quality of your heatsink paste is to ramp the CPU to maximum from idle and look at the shape of the temperature profile. A step function suggests a lousy job and benefit may be had from reapplication. A more gently sloping profile, followed by a dip due to the fans kicking in, may suggest you are in good shape. Obviously, this presupposes that your Mac temperatures are not insanely hot to start with (i.e. high 90sC+). In which case, if defluffing doesn't do the job, then new heatsink paste is almost certainly required.
Regards, BB

I'm sorry but this is too funny to pass up.

White Macbook 2006 random shutdown solved removed cpu heatsink and more

I picked up a cheap macbook from a secondhand retailer for $300 and it regularly shutdown, froze, restarted as well as the grey kernel panic screen completely random no real pattern. I set about trying to solve the problem swapping ram and hard drive with my identical 2006 macbook (which I had similar problems with last year, fixed that one with a new battery connector cable). The ram and hard drive made no difference so I downloaded istat menus to see if any combination of cpu voltage, current and temperature were causing the random shutdowns. It seemed when the temperature reached certain values the computer would shutdown or freeze(around 30 to 50 degrees). I'd read on other forums about faulty cpu temperature diodes so I reapplied heatsink compound to the cpu heatsink and checked all the wiring for shorts but nothing seemed to solve the problem. I was ready to retire the computer and use it for spares for my other macbook when needed but I pulled the keyboard off one more time and tried something completely radical. This fix requires some forward planning and software installation but it has completely solved my Random shutdowns completely.
for instructions see my next post *Fix for random shutdowns white macbook*

Ok this is not for the non technical person but it is quite a simple process with the right instructions.
This first step is very important install the software coolbook($10) and fan control (Free)( not smc fan control). Set up coolbook to operate the cpu at the lowest speed and voltage for both power adapter and battery(1002MHz and .95Volts). Remove the keyboard to access the computer logic board (instructions can be found at iFixit). Remove the four screws and two connectors holding the heatsink to the logicboard and gently lift the heatsink out (very important that you leave the fan screwed in and connected). Close the computer back up if you wish to test just gently connect the keyboard and loosly sit the keyboard back in. Restart and reset the pram immediately. Let the computer boot up and then open system preferences and configure Fan Control to your liking. So far no random shutdowns for over a week (was getting many a day previously.

Where can I get an original x58 Pro-E IOH chipset heatsink assy?

Recently built an i7 gaming rig and like everyone else had high nb temps which I'm not very keen on.
I had a Thermalright HR-05 from another build (took it out of my old system and replaced it with the original HS and sold that PC leaving me with it) that I'll use on the nb, but covering the sb will be difficult since I'm running 2 4870 cards in the pci-e slots, covering the sb and not being able to move the cards to free space above it. I don't really want to get something too fancy for the sb (the sli version of the nb cooler) as it doesn't seem to get hot.
I was thinking along the lines of using the HR-05 for the nb, cutting up the heat-pipe of the original chip-set HS and just using it on the sb as temps and clearance will be fine. Problem of course is if ever need to rma the board, I'm screwed. I've read all the posts about issues with the hot IOH temps and solutions, and this is the way I'll think I'll go.
Currently my temps are up around 90 on load, and that's in winter! It's around 10 C in my room right now and when summer comes around with 30 C that's gonna shoot up!
Long story short, does anybody know where I can get an original X58 Pro-E IOH heatsink assy that I can keep safe in case I need it (touch wood)

I have thought about that, saw it under some suggestions to fix high temps. But they have that shoved toward the NB. My HR-05 will take care of the NB (plus some serious OC in sumemr which i want to do) I just need a HS for the southbridge , and it seems that the only HS that has enough clearance and fits into the MB with long cards in xfire or sli is the original SB HS, which leaves me wanting to cut the orginal HS up to reuse on the SB and finding another complete HS just in case.

Looking for a better heatsink help....K8N NEO2

Im looking for a better heatsink....any suggestions? I may oc it but for now I wont....it idles at 40-41 and stays at 60 when im gaming 58 if i turn off cool n quiet.....and thats with some ocz ultra5 Thermal compund....ThX

Yes, agree with SAB, zalman 7000 is a good one, however I´ve got 2 very simular K8N Neo2-systems but with 2 different cpu coolers.
One with zalman 7000alcu and one with Thermalright XP-90 and a zalman 92mm fan ( you can use what ever 80/92mm fan you like high speed, low speed, led colored, etc).
Both are equal regarding cooling to my experience, but I prefered the XP-90 because I did not have to remove the backplate ( I think zalman recommends mounting it´s own backplate to get the right distance/pressure between the cooler and cpu ).
With the XP-90 you just switch the retension mechanism which is easy ( even with the MoBo in the case ).

X-Fi Xtrememusic w/ Heatsink Lower RMAA Resul

Hi,
I just purchased the X-Fi Xtrememusic and am loving the quality of the Analog out with my headphones. I'm curious though, because accorfing to this
http://audio.rightmark.org/downloads/Sound%20Blaster%20X-Fi%20Testing%20Methodology%20And%20Results%20For%2 0RMAA%20v5.5.pdf
, I should be getting a noise level/dynamice range of around 94/94 @ 6/44., and around -02/02 @ 24/96. However, I'm getting a slightly lower result of -92/92 and -99/99 respecti'vely. Are those people with heatsinks also getting the same results? If so, does this mean the newer revisions have slightly lower specs? Or am I the only one getting this, and is this grounds for replacement? Thanks in advance for your answers!

Also, I failed to mention most of the capacitors are really bent, but it doesn't seem to affect performance. Could this be a factor?

Temperature Monitor Alert:Memory controller heatsink Results!!!

Hello all...
I have a question about the Memory Controller Heatsink sensor in the temparature monitor and I would appreciate it if you could shed any light in my problem.
Well it was long time since I checked my temperatures on my G5 DP 2.3 so yesterday while I was into some MP3 encoding I heard the fans making alot of noise ,not something unbearable but not the usual silence behaviour I was used to even under heavy load and with the nap off.
So because of that noise I decide to check it with the temperature monitor but nothing unusual came up except...yes you guess it the Memory Controller heatsink.
An alert came up and inform me that the temp was over 75 C/167 F.
The threshold was by default at 75 C/167 F.
Let me add that it's summer here and a hot one at 37 C and the room is not airconditioning,but it was exactly the same one year ago(June 2005)and I never came up with an alert.
Also I have no problem with the rest indications.
So what do you think is it normal or may I have a broken fan?
And finally what is the Memory Controller Heatsink?
Thanx in advance!

The memory controller heatsink is shown, with the associated cooling tubes and fins, in the right-hand photo of the 'back' of the main logic board here
http://homepage.mac.com/jerrycube/jerrycubepix/22601bluebord.jpg
Air is pulled over the back of the main logic board and through the cooling fins, by the fan in a plastic housing, at 90deg to all the other fans, behind the hard drives.
This fan is called "Main Logic Board Backside" by Hardware Monitor in this ancient DP2.0 - and is showing "20%" in 22deg C room temperature. "Memory Controller Heatsink" is at 54deg C.
37deg C is above the specified max. 'Operating Temperature' of 35deg C shown here
http://support.apple.com/specs/powermac/PowerMac_G5_Late2005.html
I think it would probably be advisable to find some way of lowering the temperature of the room the G5 is in...

Replace fan w/ better heatsink? G4Ti4200 VTD64

I have a G4-Ti4200-VTD64 display board. I'm in the process of silencing my PC -- just installed quiet Papst case fans (1 in, 2 out, using rubber mounts), Nexus NX-3500 quiet power supply, and Nexus AXP-3200 quiet AMD heat-sink and fan. Forgot to order the Zalman northbridge/chipset heatsink to replace that fan, which is definitely noisy, but I will. Once that fan is replaced, the only "stock" fan left in my PC will be the one on the MSI Ti4200-VTD64 card.
Is it possible to replace the video card fan with a heat sink? (Something less elaborate and costly than the Zalman or Thermaltake heat-pumps, which look like considerable overkill for this card.) I'm not overclocking.
Thanks.
Randy.

if u want silent this is pretty new and cool. runs at 19db on low and 23db on high for around 20 bucks and u can get it here: http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozencpu/process.html
http://www.arctic-cooling.com/en/products/vga_silencer/

What heatsink do I need? DV7t-6100 quad

Hi all,
I've spent hours on the phone with HP techsupport and parts departments trying to find out the partnumber for my heatsink. The fan is having problems and it's not software or dust buildup related so I figure the heatsink is a good place to start. Unfortunately there are a ton of options for my laptop. Even more unfortunate, it seems that no one in HP support can answer a simple question about what part is compatible with my system. The only answer I received is that all the heatsinks are the same and there's no difference or issue with compatibility. I know that's a bunch of bull as a simple google search shows that they all look vastly different so I'm hoping someone here can help.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c02842278.pdf
The service manual link above details the three possibilities.
1. "For use only with computer models equipped with an Intel processor and a graphics subsystem with 2.0-GB of discrete memory."
2. "For use only with computer models equipped with an Intel processor and a graphics subsystem with UMA memory."
3. "For use only with computer models equipped with an Intel processor."
Specs:
Dv7t-6100 - Win 7 Ultimate
Quadcore sandybridge intel processor
Radeon 6770M graphics
Product: LM418AV
If you need more information I'll try to provide it. I'm not entirely sure what those three options entail though I would assume it's a combination of my processor and graphics.
Thanks for any help.

Hi:
The specs you posted for your model indicate it has an Intel processor with a discrete video adapter (6770M).
Does your graphics spec in the control panel indicate the gpu has 2 GB of memory?
IMO, the heatsink you would get would be the one you listed first.
UMA memory is for PC's with just the onboard Intel HD graphics, and Lord knows what the 3rd one means!

K9N NEO V3 - Heatsink bracket

One of the heatsink clips on the mounting bracket for the CUP heatsink and fan broke loose. Would anyone have any idea where to get another one? I need specifics please, I've already tried searching for replacement parts but not having any luck whatsoever.
Thanks!
J

are you talking about the stock plastic heatsink mounting bracket around the CPU socket has broken? if so look up am2 retention bracket on amazon as the sellers on there stock replacement holders (note AM2 AM2+ AM3 AM3+ and FM are all the same mounts for stock coolers) there about $12 including shipping and are avalible in Black, Red and yellow!
if its an aftermarket mount not a stock type then you need to contact the manufacturer to ask for a replacement!

Are the replacement Heatsinks fixing people's Random Shutdown problems?

Is the replacement heatsink (the shorter one) still the method of choice from Apple for fixing Random Shutdown problems?
Is it working for people who've had it done recently?

Does this max out the CPU?
Yes. People who advocate this are testing to see if it's possible to induce a "random" shut down.
Why would anyone want to do that?
Good question. I've seen two reasons put forward: (a) It's better to make it happen now yourself rather let it strike out of the blue at some later date (and if running this test doesn't induce RSDs you can feel confident that your computer is probably immune); (b) If you take your MacBook to an Apple Store it could be useful for demonstrating to an Apple "genius" that your computer has the problem, especially if your shutdowns are infrequent.
(personally, I don't agree with (a))
MacBook (OS 10.4.8) iMac G4 (OS 10.3.9)

Artic VGA Silencer & Zalman chipset heatsink ?

hi everybody
i'd like to equip my R9800 pro with a Silencer rev.3
but i'm using the Zalman chipset heatsink
on my K8N Neo Platinum.. (see pic)
is there anybody here who knows if these will interfere with eachother ?

I've decided to buy the Neo2 platinum
with a 3500+
Only thing is, currently I have 1 stick of
Corsair XL PC3200..
I'd buy another stick for dual channel but i'd like to know
if this will work..
I don't wanna sell my current stick ,
just to spend more money on a TwinX
set of Corsair
Anyone here running sticks they bought seperately ?
grtz

P6N Platinum heatsinks

I'm looking into getting an aftermarket HSF for my new build, and i was thinking about taking off the existing chipset heatsink piece, taking out the thermal pads that are there, and applying some Arctic Silver instead.
Has anyone done this? Is it worth the effort? Will it pay off in the long run if i overclock?
Also, is it difficult to remove the existing heatsinks?

Quote from: cywr on 29-May-07, 04:45:45
Yeah, the MSI heatpipe thing is fine, i was just thinking of adding better TIM as it should in theory improve cooling. Probably less of an issue than with a CPU/HSF though.
Speaking of which, i'm stumped on what to get. I have dominator RAM, and i'm worried they'll impose limits on what i can install. Additionaly there are, things on the other side of the MB that will interfere with certain backplates.
The Skythe Mine looks alright, seems reasonably priced and uses the standard intel clips, but does it offer the best cooling performance for its price range?
Meh, time to google for reviews.
You really should look into an HS/HSF combo that blows down toward the CPU for sake of the NB and VRM.

New heatsink on the way!!

120mm fan for low noise and projected C/W of 0.16 (top ranked). Really big and only weights 370 grams. And, you don't have to remove the mother board to install it. A dream air heatsink. I'm gettin' one when it's available!
http://www.overclockers.com/articles1036/index03.asp

A real powerfull beaty hope it fits

MEGA 865 CPU heatsink FAN FAILURE.

Got my Mega 865 less than six months ago, and the CPU heatsink fan is making annoying loud grinding noises.
Anyone know where I can get an adequate replacement FAST online in the USA? (I need it in
The fan is the 60mm x 60mm x 13mm near the AGP slot, Delta Electronics model AFB0612VHC and the specs are DC12V 0.36A 28cfm 3pin motherboard connector.
Is it worth contacting MSI Support? Can they FedEx me a fast replacement overnight? (If it's under warranty, great, if not, fine I'll pay for it.)
Otherwise, the MEGA865 is great, I liked it a lot.
Config:
ATI Radeon 9600 (fanless)
Hauppauge PVR250MCE
3.2 ghz Northwood
250 GB Maxtor
OEM NEC 2500A DVD RW black.
and
Windows Media Center 2005 (rocks)
Thanks for any help you can give.

Quote
Originally posted by aaaaa
Quote
Originally posted by Stu Online
if the unit is six months old, you should be able to claim one under warranty - MSI will probably suggest you contact your dealer first - though i doubt if dealers will have seperate heatsinks
I got the MEGA from newegg.
I'd rather MSI just mailed me a fan, not a whole heatsink. Bubble wrap one and drop it in a FedEx overnight envelop.
Even if it's under warranty, I'd totally pay for a new one if I could get it fast.
We're talking about a $15 item (+whatever FedEx overnight costs). I don't really care if I have to buy one myself. Unfortunately I looked on the web, and no one seems to sell this exact fan anywhere.
Wow I'm impressed. I phoned MSI USA support, was on hold for
Great job MSI support. I'm astonished it was this easy.

GPU heatsink for 8710w with FX 3600

Hi
My laptop p/n is KE191EA#AK8
I'm looking for a GPU heatsink for my laptop, the old one has 1 broken heatpipe and it gets quite hot.
HP Tech support personnel keep repeating the same message over and over again.
"The correct part number is 450594-001"
This part is the incorrect one, there is no doubt about it. I ordered the **bleep** part and it is not the same as the original. There are two key differences. The first one is that there is only a single heatpipe, my machine runs too hot with the current one heatpipe configuration. The second difference is that the plate that is pushed against the chips is different, and it won't cover all of the chips.
Replacing the part with that one could cause permanent damage to my computer, so I'm not going to even try using it.
(Sorry if I'm a bit frustrated, but I've been over this matter 5 times now..)
What is the correct part, anyone please!?
My laptop has the FX 3600 GPU if that makes any difference.

How do you plan on using a PCIe card with a laptop? Via a Thunderbolt PCIe adapter? I can't help with that. In fact, I didn't think those adapters were even out yet.
I do have a Mac Pro and I use the NVDIA Quadro 4000 For Mac. This works great for Premiere Pro. As good as the 4800 and for less money. Check out this comparison.
http://barefeats.com/wst10g11.html

Heatsink 1 or Heatsink 2

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