Help - Finding images that I've edited

Hi again,
This is a contination of a prior post, but has narrowed in scope. I have a case open with Adobe realted to my catalog going haywire at some point in the past (longer ago than my oldest catalog BU). In my dealings with Adobe on this now almost 2 month old case several things have been tried. Some have helped for some of the symptoms but we're left with one remaining problem.
At this time the catalog has lost track of the CR2 half of CR2+JPG combos. The physical CR2 files are still on my HD, just the catalog now only knows about the JPG where in the past the catalog had showed CR2+RAW for those images. I'm not going to go into all the gory details, but it looks like for situaitons where I had applied edits to my CR2+JPG combos before the catalog lost track of the CR2's, those edits are now showing on the remaining JPG (as the CR2 is no longer known to the catalog) and I need to get those edits over to the corresponding CR2 which I can re-import. So far Adobe has not been able to suggest anyting other than importing the CR2 (after setting the catalog preference to treat RAW next to JPG as seperate images) then copying the history from the JPG to the CRW one by one which is not a very exciting thought.
I have over 22,000 images in the catalog, of which, maybe 15,000 were victims of the catalog problem that lost the CR2's. What I don't know is how many, and which, photos in the catalog are lone JPG's (ie are not part of a CR2+JPG combo) and have had one or more edits applied to the image. If that number is manageable I can copy the edits one by one. If that number is too large, then I need to keep encouraging Adobe to give me a way to do this.
So, can one of you experts come up with a filter or smart collection method of isolating the lone JPG images (not CR2+JPG combos) where there are edits showing in the history. The filter or smart collection should only consider real updates and ignore history entries such as those that start with "Update to current process", "export to....", "Import...", "Publish...", Etc.
Thanks -- Dan

Hi Beat,
The plugin you suggested was looking real good till I got to a FAQ on their web page stating that "History Steps" are not copied. Oops, that's what I'm really after. I guess just the final edited image pixels are copied rather than the edit stps.
Thanks for the thought.
Dan

Similar Messages

Is there a way to import images that have been edited and assign them to the original?

I am transitioning to mac and aperture. Is there a way to import images that have been edited and assign them to the original? I have 10,000 originals and about 2,000 edited images. The originals are named img_XXXX and anything modified img_XXXX_modified. I would like to be able to import the originals and then import the edited versions and assign them to the original masters. Instead of starting from here and going forward with 12,000 masters, some of which are actual originals and others not. Thanks for the help.

Ah, the vestiges of a destructive workflow! Once you "get" Aperture, (specifically Masters and Versions) you are going to love it, as all of this work goes away - the relationship that you seek to retain is automatic in Aperture; it is simply done differently.
The short answer to your question is EVERY image file that is Imported into Aperture will create a new Master and one Version. Assuming that your images are PSD/TIFF/JPEG that you created in something like Photoshop, then each one that your import will be a new Master. You have many options:
-- Stick the originals in one Project(s) and the edited versions in another Project(s).
-- Stick them all in the same Project(s) and "Stack" them.
But here is the real question: Why are you doing all of this work and what are you trying to accomplish? Seems you are trying to preserve old things that don't need preserving in a non-destructive workflow.
So, what is most valuable to you?
-- The original, out of camera files? (That is, the fear/need to revert.)
-- The edited versions? (That is the hours of work that it took you to get there.)
If the former, import the originals and ignore the edited versions. (Either simply leave them out on disk or import them into their own Projects which you ignore.) Use Aperture to recreate the work you had done previously. This will always give you the ability to revert to the original Master and create as many Versions as you want. This is the best idea if your edits are relatively simple crops and exposure adjustments,
If the latter, then import the edited versions and do as above with the originals. This makes more sense if your work uses lots of layers and, perhaps lots of clone tool type corrections.
Of course, you can do a bit of both.
Others may have better suggestions, but you will find it easy to answer your own question when you understand an image based, as opposed to a file based, non-destructive workflow.
Good luck!

Finding images that have been 'protected' while in camera

Hello, I was wondering if anybody knows how to find images that you protect while they're in your camera? I have a Canon 5D Mark II, and I can select images to 'lock' or 'protect' .. I use that to mark images that I believe are key images while on a shoot.
With Photo Mechanic I can select 'tagged' images .. and those images I have marked in my camera will be selected.
I've tried to figure out if its something I can find in exif .. and have had no luck.
Please help!

There should be a Smart Collection called "Without Keywords" in the Collections Pane of the Library Module. That will automatically contain what you are looking for.
If that isn't there, click on All Photographs then use the Filter Bar>Metadata and filter on Keywords....the top entry (None) will be what you are looking for.

Lightroom does not automatically find images that have been moved within same parent folder/drive

Lightroom does not automatically find images that have been moved within same parent folder/drive...I moved my catalog and photos to shared drive so that all users can access and when I moved photos within parent folder lightroom did not automatically adjust like in video I watched. I had to manually locate. Is there a fix for this?

Lightroom does not automatically find images that have been moved within same parent folder/drive...I moved my catalog and photos to shared drive so that all users can access and when I moved photos within parent folder lightroom did not automatically adjust like in video I watched. I had to manually locate. Is there a fix for this?
I haven't watched that video, but if you move photos in your operating system ... Lightroom does NOT automatically find these photos. Finding photos that have been moved is NOT a feature of Lightroom. So, there is no fix for this.
You would have to tell Lightroom where the photos are now located, as explained in the link from 99jon
If you must move photos, move them inside of Lightroom, not in your operating system, or better yet — don't move them, and use Lightroom tools such as keywords and other metadata to achieve organization.

Importing vector image that can be edited in keynote 6

Hi All,
I have a vector image (eps) that I'd love to put in my keynote 6 presentation. Need to be able to edit it.
Struggling to find a way. I can get the image in, but not able to edit it.
Any ideas?

There is a way to export the vectors such that that you can edit the fill, stroke, even modify the points in Keynote HOWEVER it requires that you have a version of Keynote that will still open Keynote 1 files. If you still have that old version of Keynote, check this page.
http://www.christianholz.net/keynote_utilities.html
In addition EazyDraw will also export Keynote 1 files.
http://www.eazydraw.com/fileFormats.htm
It was fairly straightforward for these tools to generate a text .xml file structure for Keynote 1. As the latest Keynote no longer opens files like these (and the current format isn't built on an easily understandable xml base) it remains to be seen if Apple will create a tool that allows developers to export to this latest Keynote version.

Firefox can't find images that are there. ALL other browsers can!! Durrr - it just started happening on live an test websites to which there have been no changes

Try www.avivastringquartet.co.uk
You will not see pictures on the index.html page.
Try it in Chrome,Opera, IE and all is fine
Look at source and look for image by clicking on <img src="..."- says it can't find image.
Also Firefox does not follow the CSS standard as the others do.
Current OS is windows XP

The pictures appear OK for me.
With the site on display, click on the site identity button (for details on what that is see the [[site identity button]] article) and then on More Information. This will open up the page info dialog.
First select the Permissions panel, make sure that "Load Images" is set to allow (selecting Use Default should also work)
Next select the Media panel, then click on the first item in the list. Use the down arrow key to scroll through the list. If any item has the option "Block images from (domain name)" selected, de-select the option.
This should hopefully resolve your issue, but also see [[Images or animations do not show]].
Some add-ons can also block images, for example if you have AdBlock Plus installed, make sure that you have not accidentally created a filter to block the images.
The encoding for the site is set to "UTF- 8" rather than "UTF-8"

Finding images that have not been tagged?

How can I search/find images in LR4 that have been imported though not tagged?
Thanks.

There should be a Smart Collection called "Without Keywords" in the Collections Pane of the Library Module. That will automatically contain what you are looking for.
If that isn't there, click on All Photographs then use the Filter Bar>Metadata and filter on Keywords....the top entry (None) will be what you are looking for.

Need help finding accounts that expire 90 days from date created

Hi, I am trying to find all temp accounts in AD that expire 90 days after the account was created. Here is what I have so far. I am not sure how to calculate that. I am not receiving any output.
        $expireDate = (Get-ADUser -filter * -Properties accountExpires).accountExpires
    $accountExpireDate = ([System.DateTime]::FromFileTime($expireDate)).AddDays(-90).Date
    Get-ADUser -Filter {whenCreated -ge $accountExpireDate} -Properties whenCreated | select name | export-csv 'c:\temp\all_temp_users.csv'enter code here

OK. I read your question again and I think I understand what you are asking now.
Try it this way:
$DaysSinceCreation = 90
get-aduser -ldapfilter "(&(!(accountExpires=0))(!(accountExpires=9223372036854775807)))" -properties accountExpires,whenCreated | foreach-object {
$accountExpires = [DateTime]::FromFileTime($_.accountExpires)
if ( ($accountExpires - $_.whenCreated).Days -eq $DaysSinceCreation ) {
new-object PSObject -property @{
"distinguishedName" = $_.DistinguishedName
"whenCreated" = $_.whenCreated
"accountExpires" = $accountExpires
-- Bill Stewart [Bill_Stewart]
Here is what i modified for expand the range of $dayssincecreation value. It appears to work but is kind of sloppy. Its not a big deal, but is there a way to make this cleaner? i tried a range variable and did not have any luck. Again thanks for all your
help!
$DaysSinceCreation = 85
$DaysSinceCreation1 = 86
$DaysSinceCreation2 = 87
$DaysSinceCreation3 = 88
$DaysSinceCreation4 = 89
$DaysSinceCreation5 = 90
$DaysSinceCreation6 = 91
$DaysSinceCreation7 = 92
$DaysSinceCreation8 = 93
$DaysSinceCreation9 = 94
$DaysSinceCreation10 = 95
$DaysSinceCreation11 = 96
get-aduser -ldapfilter "(&(!(accountExpires=0))(!(accountExpires=9223372036854775807)))" -properties accountExpires,whenCreated | foreach-object {
$accountExpires = [DateTime]::FromFileTime($_.accountExpires)
if ( ($accountExpires - $_.whenCreated).Days -eq $DaysSinceCreation -or ($accountExpires - $_.whenCreated).Days -eq $DaysSinceCreation1 -or ($accountExpires - $_.whenCreated).Days -eq $DaysSinceCreation2 -or ($accountExpires - $_.whenCreated).Days -eq $DaysSinceCreation3 -or ($accountExpires - $_.whenCreated).Days -eq $DaysSinceCreation5 -or ($accountExpires - $_.whenCreated).Days -eq $DaysSinceCreation6 -or ($accountExpires - $_.whenCreated).Days -eq $DaysSinceCreation7 -or ($accountExpires - $_.whenCreated).Days -eq $DaysSinceCreation8 -or ($accountExpires - $_.whenCreated).Days -eq $DaysSinceCreation9 -or ($accountExpires - $_.whenCreated).Days -eq $DaysSinceCreation10 -or ($accountExpires - $_.whenCreated).Days -eq $DaysSinceCreation11) {
new-object PSObject -property @{
"SamAccountName" = $_.SamAccountName
"whenCreated" = $_.whenCreated
"accountExpires" = $accountExpires

How do you get rid of the padlock symbol on an image that has been edited?

When I edit all images in a file there is a padlock sign on each image. How do I get rid of the padlock?

Close the file in the editor before you go back to the organizer.

How to find out that user starts editing data ?

Hi all,
I need to do something like changing icon to indicate editing session when the user starts editing cell in JTable, what event should I listen to ?
Thanks in advance
Setya

Hi,
add a PropertyChangeListener to your JTable and listen to the property "tableCellEditor". When it its null, editing is stopped, if it is non-null, editing was started.
Thus you can determine when an editing session was initiated.
Michael

Help! Image that looks fine in Bridge CC appears half black in Photoshop 2014 CC

Dell XPS15 laptop
Windows 8.1
Adobe Creative Cloud
nVidia GeForce 750M GPU

Disable GPU drawing, or update your video card driver from the GPU maker's website.

Image quality lost through editing with Photoshop?

I find a number of professionals using Lightroom as their primary photo editor.
I did a search on Lightroom vs Photoshop. I found the following listed as the first reason for choosing Lightroom: 1. Nondestructive Editing. Nothing is actually changed (by Lightroom) in an image until it is exported. This means you can make an adjustment, change it again and again, but no quality is lost as it would be with Photoshp. This is reported in Outdoor Photographer.
My impression is there is no lost of image quality in Photoshop if you are working on a layer copy of the Background. Photoshop tries to prevent degradation of the original image by requiring it be copied or otherwise freed before the background can be changed.
Image quality can be lost in downstream layers through processes such as changing image size.
Is my statement correct about loss of image quality and the 'analyst' from Outdoor Photographer misstating things?

Hi Vince.
I am just learning my way around Photoshp. I have spent 18 months learning how to start and to stop it.
Good point. But if we peg the learning curve of Ps at 10, Lr comes in around 2 or 3. Like learning to drive a car as opposed to learning to fly a jet.
Smart Objects would make PS more re-editable.
True, but still no match for Lr or Ps RAW.
I have never before seens a comment that extensive work on an image in PS would deteriorate the quality of the image.
Extensive work will do what the user asks it to do. In the first 18 months I had Ps, I asked it to do lots of things that I now realize deteriorated my images. Forever.
Regarding LR, I have created for me a workflow that requires PS.
So did everyone before Lr came out. And yet, Ps users by the thousands, if not millions, have adopted Lr. Many if not most with a greater time investment in Ps than 18 months. I dropped my Ps centric flo the moment I realized what Lr could do. I had been using Ps pretty heavily for about 5 years by that time.
I feel LR works best for experienced photographers who are shoooting a lot of pictures.
While it's true that experienced photographers might realize more benifit, maybe not. It works great for everyone.
That person has good images, images that need little editing, to start the output process.
This is not true in the sense that the majority of Lr users are mediocre photographers at best. For the simple fact that most photographers (even "pros") are mediocre at best. And Lr was conceived with these folks in mind. It has the true "pro" stuff, but in an amateur friendly environment. Judging by the images and questions posted on photo and Lr forums, there are many, many, low level photographers using it.
I am an inexperienced photographer shooting just a few pictures. So I put a lot of effort into getting a good print from my mediocre shots.
You obviously care about your images. Care more when you are shooting them. This is boiler plate advice. Time spent mastering your camera will pay off better dividends than learning to fix bad photos. This was true before the digital age, and it's just as true now. Ultimately, no matter how hard you massage it in Ps, Lr, or any other app, the quality of your final image will be a function of the quality of the original pixels you captured with you camera.
So far as masks and all the rest, Lr has an Local Area Adjustment Brush which does just that. You paint the mask, complete with any number or combination of adjustments, with a brush. The mask and the adjustments to it can be easily changed later. A good spot removal tool. A great red eye tool.
File size isn't a huge factor these days, but it still counts. Instead of layers and the pixel data for each of them as in Ps, Lr has the pixel data once, and a sidecar file with the adjustments settings in a much smaller file. Not a big deal for storage, but when rendering, maybe a bigger deal. Lr also pre-renders previews at various sizes (you can program this, plus how long it keeps them). I could go on and on (and I have).
Bottom line, it's a great tool for anyone who takes photos. For the price, it's a no brainer for $150. If you have the $150. Not true for many of us these days.
Anyway, Vince, I hope you don't think I'm picking on you. I answered you in detail because you made such good points. And the answers might be of general interest.
Peace,
Lee

[AS] Batch find images with attributes

Hi!
I've done some applescripting with Indesign but scripting photoshop is new to me.
Problem:
Thousands of grayscale images in a folder. Some of them are not adjusted for print so i need to find images that has light values below 5% an dark values above 95% and move those images to another folder for later processing.
Also some of the images are too wide or too high so those should be moved to another folder for later use.
Can this be done with applescripting Photoshop or is there some other ways (application?)to do it?
Any ideas?
thanks
jukka

What kind of file types do you have? AppleScript has access to SIPS via 'Image Events' a GUI-less app this can check some attributes of files without you opening them (no .eps though). For your below 5% above 95% the only method I can think of at the moment would be to open in Photoshop and read the first and last 12-ish items of the histogram. Something like this would tell you if you have pixels in those ranges. Assuming an open grayscale image.
tell application "Adobe Photoshop CS2"
activate
set docRef to the current document
tell docRef
set docWidth to width
set docHeight to height
set docHistogram to histogram of channel "Gray"
set above95 to 0
repeat with i from 1 to 12
set above95 to above95 + (item i of docHistogram)
end repeat
set below5 to 0
repeat with i from 244 to 256
set below5 to below5 + (item i of docHistogram)
end repeat
if (above95 > 0) and (below5 > 0) then
display dialog "NOT OK Image"
else
display dialog "OK Image"
end if
end tell
end tell

I need your help with a decision to use iPhoto. I have been a PC user since the mid 1980's and more recently have used ACDSee to manage my photo images and Photoshop to edit them. I have used ProShow Gold to create slideshows. I am comfortable with my

I need your help with a decision to use iPhoto. I have been a PC user since the mid 1980’s and more recently have used ACDSee to manage my photo images and Photoshop to edit them. I have used ProShow Gold to create slideshows. I am comfortable with my own folder and file naming conventions. I currently have over 23,000 images of which around 60% are scans going back 75 years. Since I keep a copy of the originals, the storage requirements for over 46,000 images is huge. 180GB plus.
I now have a Macbook Pro and will add an iMac when the new models arrive. For my photos, I want to stay with Photoshop which also gives me the Bridge. The only obvious reason to use iPhoto is to take advantage of Faces and the link to iMovie to make slideshows. What am I missing and is using iPhoto worth the effort?
If I choose to use iPhoto, I am not certain whether I need to load the originals and the edited versions. I suspect that just the latter is sufficient. If I set PhotoShop as my external editor, I presume that iPhoto will keep track of all changes moving forward. However, over 23,000 images in iPhoto makes me twitchy and they are appear hidden within iPhoto. In the past, I have experienced syncing problems with, and database errors in, large databases. If I break up the images into a number of projects, I loose the value of Faces reaching back over time.
Some guidance and insight would be appreciated. I have a number of Faces questions which I will save for later.

Bridge and Photoshop is a common file-based management system. (Not sure why you'd have used ACDSEE as well as Bridge.) In any event, it's on the way out. You won't be using it in 5 years time.
Up to this the lack of processing power on your computer left no choice but to organise this way. But file based organisation is as sensible as organising a Shoe Warehouse based on the colour of the boxes. It's also ultimately data-destructive.
Modern systems are Database driven. Files are managed, Images imported, virtual versions, lossless processing and unlimited editing are the way forward.
For a Photographer Photoshop is overkill. It's an enormously powerful app, a staple of the Graphic Designers' trade. A Photographer uses maybe 15% to 20% of its capability.
Apps like iPhoto, Lightroom, Aperture are the way forward - for photographers. There's the 20% of Photoshop that shooters actually use, coupled with management and lossless processing. Pop over to the Aperture or Lightroom forums (on the Adobe site) and one comment shows up over and over again... "Since I started using Aperture/ Lightroom I hardly ever use Photoshop any more..." and if there is a job that these apps can do, then the (much) cheaper Elements will do it.
The change is not easy though, especially if you have a long-standing and well thought out filing system of your own. The first thing I would strongly advise is that you experiment before making any decisions. So I would create a Library, import 300 or 400 shots and play. You might as well do this in iPhoto to begin with - though if you’re a serious hobbyist or a Pro then you'll find yourself looking further afield pretty soon. iPhoto is good for the family snapper, taking shots at birthdays and sharing them with friends and family.
Next: If you're going to successfully use these apps you need to make a leap: Your files are not your Photos.
The illustration I use is as follows: In my iTunes Library I have a file called 'Let_it_Be_The_Beatles.mp3'. So what is that, exactly? It's not the song. The Beatles never wrote an mp3. They wrote a tune and lyrics. They recorded it and a copy of that recording is stored in the mp3 file. So the file is just a container for the recording. That container is designed in a specific way attuned to the characteristics and requirements of the data. Hence, mp3.
Similarly, that Jpeg is not your photo, it's a container designed to hold that kind of data. iPhoto is all about the data and not about the container. So, regardless of where you choose to store the file, iPhoto will manage the photo, edit the photo, add metadata to the Photo but never touch the file. If you choose to export - unless you specifically choose to export the original - iPhoto will export the Photo into a new container - a new file containing the photo.
When you process an image in iPhoto the file is never touched, instead your decisions are recorded in the database. When you view the image then the Master is presented with these decisions applied to it. That's why it's lossless. You can also have multiple versions and waste no disk space because they are all just listings in the database.
These apps replace the Finder (File Browser) for managing your Photos. They become the Go-To app for anything to do with your photos. They replace Bridge too as they become a front-end for Photoshop.
So, want to use a photo for something - Export it. Choose the format, size and quality you want and there it is. If you're emailing, uploading to websites then these apps have a "good enough for most things" version called the Preview - this will be missing some metadata.
So it's a big change from a file-based to Photo-based management, from editing files to processing Photos and it's worth thinking it through before you decide.

Images smaller printed then edited, help needed

Hello everyone.
I'm using LiveCycle Manager 8.0 on Win XP SP3
When building a new form i got various problems with images being printed smaller then what is defined and shown in the edited and also in preview mode.
The problem occurs with images that are being included with Image Fields.
The problem gets even bigger if i place the images by showing them by the push of a button (script)
Pictures will not be x/y placed and sized as defined in the layout parameter
Here are some details about the pics:
Larger header pic 17.7 x 8.0 cm, 300dpi
Smaller pics bellow 17.7 x 1.6 cm, 300dpi
Here are some screen shoots to show you how it looks.
Any help would be great as I really tried a lot but can't find a solution.
Designmode:
Preview Mode
Final PDF messed up
PS: LiveCycle Manager also seems to run very bugy. Sometimes it crashes when changing a image parameter.

Hi,
OK I am trying to get to grips with what you are trying to achieve.
The preview now shows how the form will look in Acrobat (Form / Properties / Preview / Interactive).
In the top imageField I cannot explain why the displayed image is not as per the design view. Because it works for an image object (rev 1 in previous post), I suspect that it is a bug in the imageField object.
There are workarounds however it would depend on the number of options (images) that the user has to select and if these images will change over time. If there are a small number of options, you could include all of the images in a series of image objects that are hidden and then change the visibility depending on what the user selects. This would be easier for the user because they would not have to browse to an image location.
In relation to the "Geben Sie hier einen Titel ein |" header; if you are looking to change the background colour, then there is a simpler way, which i have included in rev 2.
You can script rectangles for presence, colour, etc. The rectangle cannot contain the script, but you can include script in a button that will affect the presence and appearance (look) of the rectangle.
Hope that helps,
Niall

Help - Finding images that I've edited

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for