HELP - What firewire do I buy for macbook pro?

I have a 6 year old digital camera that does not connect to my macbook with my current firewire cables (the cables has no hook up on computer end). Where can I find an updated firewall cable that connects to my older camera and newer computer? Thanks!

http://www.macsales.com/
Look for a Firewire 400 Firewire 800 adapter.

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What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

Favor, what is Battery model no. for Macbook Pro 17" 2.16Ghz Intel Core Duo

Favor, what is Battery model no. for Macbook Pro 17" 2.16Ghz Intel Core Duo?

This will fit:
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MA458LL/A/rechargeable-battery-17-inch-macbook -pro?fnode=5a
Ciao.

What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

What is the best stylus for macbook pro?

I dont understand? Why would a mac use a stylus when they aren't touchscreen?

What's the power Adapter for Macbook pro 13inch Mid 2012

What's the power Adapter for Macbook pro 13inch Mid 2012 with core i-7, 2.9ghz, 8Gb ram?
AFAIK it should be a 60wat Megasafe power adapter.
But mine shipped with a 45Watt Megasafe. I got it as a Gift from my friend.
Thanks in Advance.

mmaumio wrote:
60W MagSafe power adapter with "L" style connector
This should be my Adapter right?
Yes.
There is a drawback in addition to taking a longer time to charge up your MBP. In unusual instances when using your MBP with power adapter attached, and running a very heavy load on the CPU/GPU, the MBP will require additional electrical resources in addition to what the power adapter can provide. It will then draw upon the battery. What this means is that using a 45 watt adapter, these conditions are more likely to occur.
Using a 45 watt adapter should not harm your MBP as such.
Ciao.

What is the return policy for macbook pro in china?

I live in SuZhou, Jiangsu in China. What is the return policy for macbook pro in china? It's been 1 month and I got a main board exchange(repair).

You would need to return it to the Apple Online Store where you purchased it and it would have to be within 14 days. They may limit you to exchange only or charge a restocking fee.
Contact the Apple Online Store to make arrangements.

What connector do I need for Macbook Pro to In Focus Projector? I understand it does not have HDMI input.

What connector do I need to use for MacBook Pro to an In Focus Projector to show a PowerPoint presentation?
I understand the projector has a "regular video input", S Video Input, but no HDMI input.
Thanks

Check out my post on how to output surround sound through your Mac.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3639822
that should be able to help you

What Blue Microphone is best for MacBook Pro?

I am thinking of the Blue microphones' snowball or the tiki mics. They are both portable and have excellent reviews for MacBook Pro users, and can use in Garageband for voice overs audio to put in iMovie/FCPX...

Hi Melophage,
Thanks for your helpful reply
I bought a new MacBook 13.3 / MacBook Pro 15-inch Superdrive 9.5mm 8x
Part No. : 661-4279
For hard drives, I have a choice of:
1)   W. Digital Scorpio Blue SATA 3GB/s   5,400rpm   8MB   2.5" 500GB
2)   W. Digital WD7500PPVX SATA111   5,400rpm   8MB   2.5"   6GB/s   750MB
3)   W. Digital Black 9.5mm   7200rpm   16MB   SATA   6gb/s
Will any, or all of these be installed and function easily in my A1260 Macbook Pro?
Again, thank you for your help,
Tim (fridgemagnett)

What FireWire 800 drive (2.5") to build/buy for MacBook Pro?

Hello community, this topic is to request a little help choosing a FireWire 800 storage solution. About once every two days, I need to run a virtual machine, either Windows XP or Ubuntu. The disk image is currently located on an external USB 2.0 Western Digital hard drive, which is also used for not-speed-sensitive storage. Performance is decent, as long as I quit all possible application before launching (I have 4GB RAM, planning on 8GB upgrade very soon) and don't launch too many apps in the virtual machine, however, I feel performance is lagging since I can see the virtual hard drive indicator turning red most of the time, and the 4 white LEDs on the WD going back and forth (although it doesn't necessarily indicate heavy activity). Especially, restoring to and from saved states routinely takes 45 seconds or more. The external drive is about 90% full most of the time, and may be a contributing factor to the slow feeling. Hence, I thought about putting this FireWire 800 port to good use, and plug a compatible drive in it. I had the following requirements:
3-year warranty an absolute minimum, 5 years
would be ok (my current WD MyPassport has 5). Reason is I consider if manufacturers trust their drive for 5 years, it shouldn't be a source of worry for many years to come. I consider 2-year warranty to be substandard drives.
2.5" form factor. Reason is I rarely happen to have enough room or steady power to lay and plug a full 3.5" drive, unless it uses a battery, which is extremely rare and would add bulk in my bag.
Ability to saturate FW800 port. I think a more performant drive would be a waste of money since they constantly go down in price, and I may be able to get a better deal by the time I switch to Thunderbolt-based MacBook Pro. Admittedly, this is a "soft" requirement, given expected use.
Under $150 (would come to $170 tax,S&H included)
I understand pretty well that the two latter points come in opposition and need a compromise, so I think a large compromise on drive size is to be expected. So far, I thought about these solutions:
Fully manufactured, i.e. Seagate FreeAgent GoFlex + FW800 dongle. Major drawback: dongle is expensive, and appears to use a proprietary connector. If it breaks, impossible to replace it quickly. Alternative: LaCie Rugged (pretty big for a 2.5" drive), G-Tech (usually quite expensive).
Handmade from performance platter drives, i.e. Western Digital Scorpio Black + FW800 enclosure. Major drawback: wouldn't saturate a FW800 port since it comes in SATA300 flavor only, but I get the strong feeling it would perform better than many manufactured drives.
Handmade from SSD, i.e. Corsair + FW800 enclosure. Major drawback: from this page, major compromises would have to be made on capacity. Affordable SSDs seem to be limited to 40 or 60GB, and while I don't put capacity as a priority, I may have to use the high-performance drive for other tasks, such as editing short high-def movies, or add a third virtual machine. Considering the Windows virtual drive needs to be around 15GB, and 25 for Ubuntu, 60GB wouldn't leave enough elbow room.
What solution would be better advisable, and what arguments would you put forth for it?

Reply on a dead topic:
After a word, Macally used the Oxford chipset. So Macally I went, and put a Scorpio Black 500GB inside. Ran fine, but I got it stolen in a coffee shop a few days after I started to use it. Had no time yet to do a backup, so data was lost. Surveillance cams weren't working at the time of the theft, nobody has seen anything, and, as usual, police won't do anything about it.
Second drive I got was also a Scorpio Black I put inside the Mercury Mini enlosure from OWC. Marginal difference experienced from the Macally, but most recent Oxford chipset would ensure fewer head parkings, that are very noisy and unsettling, so much I thought there was something wrong with the drive, and still think there is, despite reassurance from Western Digital.
The mobile drive I happen to use is the lesser-performance G-Drive from Hitachi, a 750GB version.

What model superdrive is best for macbook pro A1260

My macbook pro has a busted DVDRW - it was a replacement for a previously busted drive - so I don't know how correct it is for my machine.
2.4 Gig A1260 - with the old square battery, running OSX 10.6.8.
Oh - and what HDD - that's really noisy now...and the NVIDA 8600M GT runs real hot...
Your help is greatly appreciated.

Hi Melophage,
Thanks for your helpful reply
I bought a new MacBook 13.3 / MacBook Pro 15-inch Superdrive 9.5mm 8x
Part No. : 661-4279
For hard drives, I have a choice of:
1)   W. Digital Scorpio Blue SATA 3GB/s   5,400rpm   8MB   2.5" 500GB
2)   W. Digital WD7500PPVX SATA111   5,400rpm   8MB   2.5"   6GB/s   750MB
3)   W. Digital Black 9.5mm   7200rpm   16MB   SATA   6gb/s
Will any, or all of these be installed and function easily in my A1260 Macbook Pro?
Again, thank you for your help,
Tim (fridgemagnett)

What adaptor do I need for MacBook Pro A1226?

Hi, I have a MacBook Pro model number A1226 - from late 2007 I think. It's a 15". I need a power adaptor for it as I got it second-hand and it didn't come with an adaptor. Can anyone help me out with what adaptor I need, and ideally including the adaptor model number?
Thanks heaps
Anna

Hi!
It's this one:
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MA348LL/A?fnode=MTY1NDEwMQ&mco=MTA4NDE2NDk
in the U.S. online Apple store. If you go to the online store for your country, you should be able to back into the proper model using the description of this one. What they call it should be the same. Just make sure the "15-inch" box is selected.

Trying to install InDesign (Adobe) but when I double click the Install it calls up FTP Client Ultimate?? What is the install program for MACBook Pro?

I'm new to MAC, that said I really haven't had much trouble with it except today I am trying to install Adobe InDesgin but it keeps trying to use FTP Client Ultimate to do so.. What is the installer that it should be using? I was hoping it would auto start and install but no such luck..

Thanks, I have posted to Adobe regarding their program, but my question here ( I'm new to Mac world) is what install program would normally install this? For some reason my MacBook pro keeps calling on FTP Client Ultimate to do the install and clearly that's not the right program to install a program..
I Love mu Mac, but getting help is a it frustrating...
i'm sure Apple has a program similar to InDesign, but have no idea what it would be..

What is the normal temperature for MacBook Pro's when charging?

I really wanted to know because sometimes I feel like my MacBook Pro is too hot. I don't want anything to melt in there. So I decided to download a temperature monitor.
What is the highest healthy temperature a MacBook Pro can reach?
Also ---
What is the average temperature of a MacBook Pro?
Thank you so much! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi
I have a NewerTech external charger with an inbuilt battery calibrator. It provides 2 charging methods: it either fast charges or conditions (calibrates) the battery. Fast charging, which fully charges the battery in about 2 hours, causes the battery to noticeable heat up. However, conditioning, which discharges then recharges the battery, is so gradual that the battery remains cool (at ambient temperature).
The charger has 2 slots (for 2 batteries) and will charge or condition 1 or 2 batteries but not at the same time. For example, it will fast charge one battery and when finished switch to conditioning the second battery. This charging regime means the universal power supply connected to the charger can be less powerful (and smaller), i.e., it will deliver sufficient current to fast charge one battery at a time. Batteries may be left in the charger which automatically switches to trickle charge when continuous charging finishes.
The heat generated by the battery in the MBP is caused by fast charging and whilst I have never made any temperature recordings of the base of my MBP I can confirm that sometimes it gets so hot that it can be painful if in contact with the skin, e.g. resting on ones lap. This is normal. The battery also heats up when the MBP is running solely on battery power. Excessive heat could indicate a battery fault and it should be removed and examined immediately as any distortion, e.g., swelling, can damage the MBP.
An external charger/conditioner is useful if you have a spare battery, or two.
Regards
Phil

Virus and internet security products. What programs are the best for MacBook Pro?

What internet and virus protection products are available to the MacBook pro?

MacBook Pro
Mac Virus Guide
Sophos Anti-Virus for Mac

What is Max HDD size for MacBook Pro 15" bought in 2006-07

Hi
I bought a MacBook Pro 15" about 3.5 - 4 yrs ago. The model is A1211.
It came with 120GB HDD, 2GB RAM.
What is the maximum HDD size that this will support? The Apple store employee says, it will support only upto 160 GB. But, I am skeptical it would be that low.
So, was wondering if anybody knows the max size, and also, which HDD would be best. I want at least 320 GB.

You can get a 750 GB drive that is 9.5mm high. As far as I know, the 1 TB drives are all still 12.5 mm high, although that could change at any time.
The fastest 750 GB drive I know of is this one:
http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/products/laptops/laptop-hard-drives/
It is 7200 RPM. At 5400 RPM, there are many other choices. You might want to shop at Newegg, which often has specials on drives, as does Tiger Direct. Newegg also has reviews of individual drives you can look at.
Personally, I like Western Digital drives, and put the 500 GB Scorpio Black drive in my 2007 MBP, where it has performed without issue. The largest drive that originally shipped with my MBP was a 4200RPM 250 GB drive, the very biggest one you could order in a MBP back then.
Any 2.5 inch SATA drive should work just fine. The only one I would avoid is WD's 640 GB drive because a number of people have has issues with it in their Macs.
You might shop around on line a bit, and if you are torn between two or more drives, post back with what they are and ask for opinions. Everybody has favorite drives, so it may not be possible to get anything other than a bunch of opinions.
One other thing to watch out for. Some drives are sold with or without some form of free fall sensor. Apple has its own built in sensor called the Sudden Motion Sensor. In some machines and drives, there seems to be a conflict between the drive's sensor and Apple's SMS. If that happens, you would need to disable Apple's sensor. Usually it's easier just to select the drive without a built-in sensor and let Apple's SMS work as its designed to do. In the Seagate drive I linked, it's called "G-Force", but would have a different name in a different brand.
Incidentally, you can up your RAM to 3 GB if you like.
Good luck!

HELP - What firewire do I buy for macbook pro?

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