Help with buggy brushes in aperture 3.2.2

i just installed aperture 3.2.2 on my macbook air, running lion. there is a glitch when i try to resize "brushes" in the mid range, whereby the brush becomes invisible on the picture. previous versions of aperture 3 did not do this. any thoughts?

My teammate figured it out.
the problem was under the Conditional Processing section they had the following set:
Condition Type = "Request = Expression 1"
Expression 1 = NEW
Solution was to set to "No Condition" and deleted the value of "NEW"
I'm sure we'll be back soon with questions on how to update and store it.... stay tuned.

Similar Messages

Help with Adjustment brush

Hi All,
I have upgraded LR2 to 2.1. Now I can't use the adjustment brush. When i click on the photo to make an adjustment - nothing happens; not white dot, no change, no nothing. HELP! What am I doing wrong? The gradient filter works just fine.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Al

Albert - if you haven't already, after clicking on the brush tick the small box underneath it to open a drop-down list. At the bottom of this list is another box alongside the word 'Colour' (or color if you're American :-) ). Click or double click on this box to bring up the colour pallet and using the ey-dropper pick a crazy colour such as a deep red. Now try painting with the bush. If you didn't notice the effects before it may be because the chosen colour was way at the bottom of the colour pallet giving you a neutral grey (gray) which is sometimes hard to spot.

Help with Exporting files in Aperture

Hello looking for your help (first time poster)
My problem is when I export using Aperture the file size almost triples . I Import Nikon RAW file, make my adjustments and export by using export version- TIFF original size 16bit.
The file size in Aperture is 50mb and when I check it in photoshop the file size is 143mb this is killing my hard drive!!
Cheers Dan.
Message was edited by: d4an

In either 16bit TIFF or PSD - esp if you have multiple bitmapped layers you are going to end up with big files, that is all there is to it. Are you sure you need PS to do your "tidying up" In most cases the answer is probably not depending on what "tidying up" means.
RB

Help with finding photos on Aperture.

i have archived a lot of photos i have on discs in Aperture. I am currently working on tagging them with names so i can search for them but when i find them through tags etc, it doesnt tell me which disc the picture is on. Is there any way of finding this out?

Doesn't clicking on the "Show Reconnect Options" button display the file path?

Need help with the brush tool.

I just got Illustrator yesterday, and I'm trying to ink a sketch. So I open the file of the sketch, Save it as an adobe Illustrator document, then I create a new layer, then when I go to trace the sketch I get a symbol saying I cant use the brush tool. How do I fix this? Thanks in advance.

Have you actually selected a brush stroke from the Brushes palette? Brusches are differnt from normal line strokes, the latter of which you can create with the Pencil tool...
Mylenium

Need help with adjustment brush in LR3.6, Windows 7

I have a couple questions regarding adjustment brushes in LR 3.6 which I either can't find the answer for or the answer isn't working for me.
1. I recently found out there should be Iris Enhance, Skin Soften, etc. brushes in the presets. I can't find them under the adjustment brush. I've tried going to Edit->Preferences->Presets->Restore Local Adjustment Presets as several others have suggested but it doesn't appear to do anything. I have found these files where I've read they're supposed to be (../AppData/Roaming/Adobe/Lightroom/Local Adjustment Presets) but I can't find them in LR unless they're somewhere other than the Adjustment Brush panel.
2. Also, 'O' turns the mask overlay on and off as it should. I have 'on' set to red but for some reason 'off' is set to blue and I have to desaturate it everytime I turn off the overlay mask. How do I change the "off" state to be no color?
Thanks.

I know off is supposed to be no color but for some reason it's a faded blue color. The little rectangle next to color that's supposed to have a sort of 'X' from the corners isn't gray, like it's supposed to be, but blue.
As far as I know, I only have 1 catalog. I went to Edit->Preferences->Presets and I do not have "store presets with catalog" checked. I checked it and have now found the presets I asked about. Thanks much.
Still can't figure out the mask overlay thing and it's really annoying to have to keep turning it off.

Please help! I need help with history brush problem

I'm completely new to photoshop but I have done this thing before:
open image
>ctrl J
>>select new layer
>>>select Curves
>>>>adjust accordingly
>>>>>ctrl+backspace (pic goes back to original color)
>>>>>>select history brush
this paints in that curve layer i guess...kind of like I'm putting a hole in my orginial to see the change that I made in the curves layer but only on the places I want
So for some reason this isn't working anymore! And i have no idea why! Now this error pops up: Could not use the history brush because the history state does not contain a corresponding layer.
Im using CS4 extended
What am I doing wrong?

As stated, set your History Brush source.
Also always be careful to note which layer is active after you do an undo operation.
-Noel

Need help with creating a brush

Hi guys,
I wanted to ask for help with creating a brush (even a link to a tutorial will be goon enough ).
I got this sample:
I've created a brush from it, and i'm trying to get this kind of result:
but it's only duplicates it and gives me this result:
Can someone help me please understand what i need to define in order to make the brush behave like a continues brush instead of duplicate it?
Thank you very much
shlomit

what you need to do is make a brush that looks like the tip of a brush. photoshop has several already but you can make your own that will be better.
get a paintbrush and paint a spot kind of like what you did but dont paint a stroke. make it look kindof grungy. then make your brush from that, making sure to desaturate it and everything.
EDIT:
oh, and if you bring the fill down to like 10-20% your stroke will look better

Help with Brushes

I cannot figure out what is going on with my brushes. It is placing the stamp randomly on the page. I have no control over where the image is placed on the page. It has not always been like this.
Thank you for your help.

Is it all brushes or a specific set?
Some brush sets have dynamics built into them that do exactly what you say...scatter brush strokes randomly around the page.

I'm having trouble with my clone tool. When I am cloning it appears OK (the image within the brush circles is the correct colours) however once the cloning is done, it processes leaving me with a darkened blur. Any help with what's going on would be appre

I'm having trouble with my clone tool. When I am cloning it appears OK (the image within the brush circles is the correct colours) however once the cloning is done, it processes leaving me with a darkened blur. Any help with what's going on would be appreciated.

Which tool in Camera Raw, exactly? The Spot Removal Tool? Adjustment Brush?

Help with teeth whitening adjustment brush

I consider myself a LR newbie so excuse my ignorance! I was trying to learn the adjustment brush, specifically the teeth whitening one. Got it to work great on a photo, then tried it on another one. I have no idea what I did, but now it doesn't do anything when I use it. I'm afraid that maybe I changed the preset..?? Is there a way to get it back? I can see the mask when I apply the brush, it just doesn't make any changes.
This is how I attempt it:
I zoom into the teeth.
Click the adjustment brush and select the Effect: Teeth whitening
Adjust the size of my brush and 'paint' the teeth.
Nothing happens.
The first time I used it, I could see the teeth whiten wherever my brush stroke was.
Bottom line, I have no idea what I did to mess it up!
I'm using Windows 7 and LR4 4.1, and my files are in .dng format.
Thanks for your help!!
Wendy

Brush settings are sticky with Last Brush Used and independent of the effect. If your effect is Teeth Whitening it is independent of Size, Feather, Flow, Automask, and Density.
You can set up a standard A Brush and a B Brush as well as a Standard Erasure but they will not remember the settings if you move them.
Flow- How much is applied per brush stroke
Density- How much of the total effect is allowed to accumulate with multiple brush strokes.
So, 100% of your effect is being applied 88% at a time with your previous flow. I normally run denisty at 100 and flow at around 33-50 so I can build up, feather etc.

Help with setting up Aperture on Snow Leopard

I have two late 2006 White Core 2 Duo iMacs no longer under warranty. My cameras are 2 Nikon D70's. My printer is an Epson 7600.
I installed Leopard on one of the iMacs and it broke within a week of the upgrade. Our homeowners insurance may repair it ... Shipped it today and waiting for diagnosis. (Rural, no Apple Store)
I want to install Snow Leopard on the other one but I am terrified! Is my machine really up to the task? I know that it is; based on the specs but does anyone have experiences with it? My Aperture Library houses my most precious data.
•Can I install it on an external hard drive and test it with my Aperture Library and then go back to Tiger if it has problems re-booting or starts running too hot?
I want this to be a joyful experience but this is the 3rd mac that has failed me since 2003 and frankly I am scared. 15" PowerBook, iMac G5, Intel iMac.
I have External Hard Drives that are from OWC. I have two 1TB and one 1.5TB and they are FW800 + eSATA. My computer does not have a place to plug in the eSATA cords so I am using the FW800 ones. Should I consider a RAID 5 for redundancy given my luck? I also have five 500GB Mercury Elite drives but they're FW400 only.
•Can one of those be used for speed (RAID 0)? They're empty but maybe too slow.
• If they replace rather than repair the iMac; can you recommend a more robust machine with near equal value? MBP (refurb). I'd need a matte screen or an anti-glare cover.
Any assistance would be appreciated.

Kathleen S wrote:
I want to install Snow Leopard on the other one but I am terrified! Is my machine really up to the task? I know that it is; based on the specs but does anyone have experiences with it?
We don't know what the graphics card is on your iMac, but my expectation is that the iMac should not be particularly limiting to low end use of Snow Leopard, except a bit for the graphics. However the iMac graphics will be limiting to Aperture, as also will be the limited RAM. The described iMac setup will never be a high end Aperture box but with maximum RAM should be ok as a low end Aperture box.
My Aperture Library houses my most precious data.
The iMac itself is no risk to precious data. IMO your data (originals) should be Referenced Masters housed on external hard drives and backed up off site separately but along with Vaults of the Aperture Library. Aperture's default "Managed Masters" Library usually is a very bad idea for iMacs and laptops. I do wish Apple would change the IMO inappropriate default protocol.
Can I install it on an external hard drive and test it with my Aperture Library and then go back to Tiger if it has problems re-booting or starts running too hot?
Better is to install Aperture, the Aperture Library and other apps on the iMac internal drive and keep the internal drive less than 60% full by using Referenced Masters housed on external hard drives. Make two different Vaults on two different hard drives and test rebuilding from the Vault. Then if the Snow Leopard install does not work well you can wipe the iMac drive and start over. However I think that SL should be OK on the iMac, it works fine with Aperture on my 2006 2.33 GHz MBP with 3 GB RAM.
I want this to be a joyful experience but this is the 3rd mac that has failed me since 2003 and frankly I am scared. 15" PowerBook, iMac G5, Intel iMac.
Computers and especially drives of any brand always do fail. Establish the right setup and routine backup and failures become not so terrifying.
I have External Hard Drives that are from OWC. I have two 1TB and one 1.5TB and they are FW800 + eSATA. My computer does not have a place to plug in the eSATA cords so I am using the FW800 ones. Should I consider a RAID 5 for redundancy given my luck?
No to RAID but yes yes yes to redundancy . With images we have no need for expensive real-time backup, and iMacs are unsuited to RAID anyway. What we need with images is immediate backup of our originals (such as simple copying to external drives) and routine daily/weekly backup of originals (via Finder-copy) and the Aperture Library (via Vaults) both on and off site. That is easy enough to do with the drives you have now.
Can one of those be used for speed (RAID 0)?
No. RAID 0 is great for images work but you would need a tower or an elaborate eSATA configuration. Note that RAID 0 requires a minimum of two drives for the RAID plus backup drives.
If they replace rather than repair the iMac; can you recommend a more robust machine with near equal value? MBP (refurb). I'd need a matte screen or an anti-glare cover.
An MBP would have substantially more cost and value. iMacs all have only the (IMO undesirable) glossy displays. A latest-generation Mini would meet your described needs, or an iMac plus an external matte display.
Good luck!
-Allen Wicks

I need help with the adjustment brush.

When I first started using Lightroom, the adjustment brush worked fine. Now, I will select the adjustment brush, click on the photo I'm editing, and a red circle will appear depending on the circumference I chose. If I look at the thumbnail in the navigation sidebar to the left, the red circle appears as a black circle in that photo. In addition, none of the sliders will work with the exception of the exposure adjuster. However, the effects of adjusting the exposure only appear in the thumbnail in the navigation sidebar; the main image will stay red in the area selected. Does anybody have a clue how to fix this?

Press the [o] key (overlay) to make the red overlay disappear. The black that appears in your thumbnail is likely caused by a very high negative exposure value for the brush. It also sounds like you have the Adjustment Brush panel partially collapesed. On the same line as the word Effect: on the right side is a small black triangle, click on it to expand. These are the sliders that go with the brush - not hte sliders in the basic panel which I suspect you are using.

Understanding brushes in Aperture 3

To all,
I thought I would link to a nice little article at another Aperture site which outlines how the brushes in Aperture actually work.
Hopefully this will help users understand what is going on when using the brush to add or remove adjustments on images (I know I learned a thing or two).
http://www.apertureexpert.com/tips/2011/5/29/understanding-brushes-in-aperture-3 .html
Note - I am not associated with the author of that site nor do I receive any kind of compensation.
Enjoy.

I fixed the problem of the size, it was my fault, I have selected to apply the effect to Highlights only and in this mode brushes is smaller.

I need your help with a decision to use iPhoto. I have been a PC user since the mid 1980's and more recently have used ACDSee to manage my photo images and Photoshop to edit them. I have used ProShow Gold to create slideshows. I am comfortable with my

I need your help with a decision to use iPhoto. I have been a PC user since the mid 1980’s and more recently have used ACDSee to manage my photo images and Photoshop to edit them. I have used ProShow Gold to create slideshows. I am comfortable with my own folder and file naming conventions. I currently have over 23,000 images of which around 60% are scans going back 75 years. Since I keep a copy of the originals, the storage requirements for over 46,000 images is huge. 180GB plus.
I now have a Macbook Pro and will add an iMac when the new models arrive. For my photos, I want to stay with Photoshop which also gives me the Bridge. The only obvious reason to use iPhoto is to take advantage of Faces and the link to iMovie to make slideshows. What am I missing and is using iPhoto worth the effort?
If I choose to use iPhoto, I am not certain whether I need to load the originals and the edited versions. I suspect that just the latter is sufficient. If I set PhotoShop as my external editor, I presume that iPhoto will keep track of all changes moving forward. However, over 23,000 images in iPhoto makes me twitchy and they are appear hidden within iPhoto. In the past, I have experienced syncing problems with, and database errors in, large databases. If I break up the images into a number of projects, I loose the value of Faces reaching back over time.
Some guidance and insight would be appreciated. I have a number of Faces questions which I will save for later.

Bridge and Photoshop is a common file-based management system. (Not sure why you'd have used ACDSEE as well as Bridge.) In any event, it's on the way out. You won't be using it in 5 years time.
Up to this the lack of processing power on your computer left no choice but to organise this way. But file based organisation is as sensible as organising a Shoe Warehouse based on the colour of the boxes. It's also ultimately data-destructive.
Modern systems are Database driven. Files are managed, Images imported, virtual versions, lossless processing and unlimited editing are the way forward.
For a Photographer Photoshop is overkill. It's an enormously powerful app, a staple of the Graphic Designers' trade. A Photographer uses maybe 15% to 20% of its capability.
Apps like iPhoto, Lightroom, Aperture are the way forward - for photographers. There's the 20% of Photoshop that shooters actually use, coupled with management and lossless processing. Pop over to the Aperture or Lightroom forums (on the Adobe site) and one comment shows up over and over again... "Since I started using Aperture/ Lightroom I hardly ever use Photoshop any more..." and if there is a job that these apps can do, then the (much) cheaper Elements will do it.
The change is not easy though, especially if you have a long-standing and well thought out filing system of your own. The first thing I would strongly advise is that you experiment before making any decisions. So I would create a Library, import 300 or 400 shots and play. You might as well do this in iPhoto to begin with - though if you’re a serious hobbyist or a Pro then you'll find yourself looking further afield pretty soon. iPhoto is good for the family snapper, taking shots at birthdays and sharing them with friends and family.
Next: If you're going to successfully use these apps you need to make a leap: Your files are not your Photos.
The illustration I use is as follows: In my iTunes Library I have a file called 'Let_it_Be_The_Beatles.mp3'. So what is that, exactly? It's not the song. The Beatles never wrote an mp3. They wrote a tune and lyrics. They recorded it and a copy of that recording is stored in the mp3 file. So the file is just a container for the recording. That container is designed in a specific way attuned to the characteristics and requirements of the data. Hence, mp3.
Similarly, that Jpeg is not your photo, it's a container designed to hold that kind of data. iPhoto is all about the data and not about the container. So, regardless of where you choose to store the file, iPhoto will manage the photo, edit the photo, add metadata to the Photo but never touch the file. If you choose to export - unless you specifically choose to export the original - iPhoto will export the Photo into a new container - a new file containing the photo.
When you process an image in iPhoto the file is never touched, instead your decisions are recorded in the database. When you view the image then the Master is presented with these decisions applied to it. That's why it's lossless. You can also have multiple versions and waste no disk space because they are all just listings in the database.
These apps replace the Finder (File Browser) for managing your Photos. They become the Go-To app for anything to do with your photos. They replace Bridge too as they become a front-end for Photoshop.
So, want to use a photo for something - Export it. Choose the format, size and quality you want and there it is. If you're emailing, uploading to websites then these apps have a "good enough for most things" version called the Preview - this will be missing some metadata.
So it's a big change from a file-based to Photo-based management, from editing files to processing Photos and it's worth thinking it through before you decide.

Help with buggy brushes in aperture 3.2.2

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