Help with Costs in Subcontracting

For the subon process, the finished product is ordered and the components are supplied. Normally, the final cost of the finished product is the PO price + cost of the component.
However if I incurred a cost for transferring the component to the vendor site, I want this to be included in the finished product cost. Any ideas on how I can do this?
PS I've explored using condition type in the PO however since the ration of my finished product to component is 1 : 0.5 (Invoicing of the freight cost is incorrect, as it is agains the quantity of the finished product)
Appreciate any help on this.

HI
For your scenario you have to maintain moving average price "V" for ur FG or final product.
Now suppose u send 5kg of RM valued at 100Rs each to make 10pc of FG.
Vendor charges Rs10 per pc and freight to transfer 5kg of RM is Rs1 per kg
Enter in PO rate as 10 per pc and total freight as 5
Then ur FG becomes Rs60.5 per pc
and if u cant maintain "V" for FG then what Ravi said should work

Similar Messages

Need a little help with cost of introduction

Sorry for my probably bad english;)
I'm calculating cost of servers for the organization online
video service. And I cannot understand is there difference in
recommended configuration between Origin and Edge servers. I mean
can I take a fast Origin server and slow Edge?
And other question is...
Can I use an ActiveX software for client's computers to
compress video/audio stream there but not on server and can it
reduce loading of servers or, may be reduce quantity of them?
Thank you for your answers if you understand me;)

Thanks for your answer. If it is not so difficult please
answer again;)
So I can use one double xeon 2.8 with 6-8 Gb RAM and seven
double xeons 2.0 with 2 Gb RAM for about 3500 streams, isn't it?
Will this configuration provide a good quality of service for
clients?
About compression... Will it provide a normal guality of
video in 320*240 pixels with bandwith about 150 kbit per second? Or
for this task is it better to use external sofware (such as ActiveX
plugin)?
thank you twice=)

Cost of subcontracting

dear all:
I have a problem about subcontracting need help.
before, these is no any material need subcontracting in our company,but now our
company will produce new product whick its a component material need subcontracting.
We will:
    1.we will send the component material (we can call it a001) to vendor (movement type 541) using t-code mb1b.
then we recieve the material b001 from vendor(movement type 101),and recieve the
material a001 (movement type 543) using tcode migo.
I have already setted:
1.i have already maintained the costing variant for the subcontracing using tcode okkn.
2.i have already created purchasing information record for the material b001 using t-code me11.
3.i have already created a balance sheet account 12320198 to collect the cost of subcontracting .(but i don't kown whether the account 12320198 should be the p&l statement acc. if yes is it necessary to create cost element for it,and assign a cost center to the cost element.)
4. i have already assigned the account 12320198 to the type FRL using tcode obyc.
5. i have already successfully make the standard cost calculate for b001 using tcode ck11n.but i don't kown is it correct.
my problems:
1. what should i do to collect the cost for subcontracing?
    can any friend tell me the full flow about it,or give me some detail documents about it.
2.what the account documents the system will create when i recieve the material b001 from vendor using tcode migo,and when i verify the invoice using tcode miro.i.e what should i setting for the tcode migo&miro in this case.
3.i don't kown wheher it's accurately that i have already setted.
i really need your help.
thank you a lot.
best regards!
Message was edited by:
        zhao gang
null

Please help me!!
I have an error!
Fld selectn for mvmt type 543 / acct 2026800 differs for Cost center (010)
Message no. M7093
Diagnosis
Comparison of the field selection strings from movement type 543 and G/L
     account 2026800 has revealed that there is an incompatible field
     selection combination at one or more points.
Field for which the field selection is different: Cost center
Example
On the movement type screen, a given field is a mandatory-entry field,
     whereas on the G/L account screen, the same field is suppressed.
System response
You cannot post this transaction, unless you have changed the field
     selection adequately.
Procedure
Contact your system administrator.
Action to be taken by the system administrator
Check whether any postings resulting from this movement type are to be
     made to the G/L account determined automatically. If you find that the
     G/L account is not correct, check the automatic account determination in
     the Customizing system for valuation.
     Proceed
If the G/L account is correct, use the report RM07CUFA to compare the
     field selection for the movement type with the field selection for the
     G/L account and change the incorrect settings or the field status group
     of the G/L account.
     Proceed
Do you know what to do??
Thanks!!

Going to Australia and need help with Power converters

Facts:
US uses 110v on 60hz
Australia 220v on 50hz
Making sure I understood that correctly. Devices I plan on bringing that will use power are PS3 Slim, MacBook Pro 2008 model, and WD 1TB External HDD. My DS, and Cell are charging via USB to save trouble of other cables.
Ideas I've had or thought of:
1. Get a power converter for a US Powerstrip, and then plug in my US items into the strip and then the strip into an AUS Converter into Australian outlet. Not sure if this fixes the voltage/frequency change.
2. Get power converters for all my devices. But, not sure if my devices needs ways of lowering the voltage/increasing frequency or something to help with the adjustment.
3. Buy a universal powerstrip, which is extremely costly and I wouldn't be able to have here in time (I leave Thursday). Unless Best Buy carrys one.

godzillafan868 wrote:
Facts:
US uses 110v on 60hz
Australia 220v on 50hz
Making sure I understood that correctly. Devices I plan on bringing that will use power are PS3 Slim, MacBook Pro 2008 model, and WD 1TB External HDD. My DS, and Cell are charging via USB to save trouble of other cables.
Ideas I've had or thought of:
1. Get a power converter for a US Powerstrip, and then plug in my US items into the strip and then the strip into an AUS Converter into Australian outlet. Not sure if this fixes the voltage/frequency change.
2. Get power converters for all my devices. But, not sure if my devices needs ways of lowering the voltage/increasing frequency or something to help with the adjustment.
3. Buy a universal powerstrip, which is extremely costly and I wouldn't be able to have here in time (I leave Thursday). Unless Best Buy carrys one.
Check the specs on input voltage/frequency of your power supplies.
Many laptop power supplies are "universal/global" and are specced something like 80-265 volts AC 50/60 Hz, but not all. These will just need a connector adapter.
Unsure about the PS3 Slim - if it isn't universal it could be difficult as you'll need a 110/220 transformer, one big enough (power-handling wise) for the PS3 will be very bulky.
For the external WD HDD, if it doesn't have a universal supply, you're probably best off just finding a new wallwart for it that is capable of running on 220/50.
*disclaimer* I am not now, nor have I ever been, an employee of Best Buy, Geek Squad, nor of any of their affiliate, parent, or subsidiary companies.

HELP WITH TRYING TO DO A FIXED ASSETS REPORT IN DISCOVERER

Hi...
I'll try and explain this simply as I can.
I am trying to do a Disco report to basically list the asset numbers with the cost, the opening depreciation, the YTD depreciation, Accumulated depreciation and the remaining life of the asset.
I can get most of the data from the FABG_DEPRECIATIONS table.
The report will be run for a specific period say for example 05-2008. The problem I have is that for some of the assets there won't have been any depreciation for the year 2008 but I still need those assets to appear on the report showing the cost, opening depreciation etc.
But because the report is being run for a specific period say 05-2008 in this example these assets that have no depreciation for the period are not being displayed on the report.
As there isn't a field (I couldn't find one in any of the tables)that has the opening depreciation I have used a calculation for this which is Accumulated Depreciation - YTD depreciation. This is where my problem is. For those assets that have had no depreciation in the current year being reported on it should use the accumulated depreciation for say 12-2007 as the opening depreciation for the year 2008.
So in the example of reporting for period 05-2008, it show the opening depreciation which would be the accumulated depreciation for 12-2007 and 0 (zero) for YTD depreciation.
That is why I have attempted without success to use a union statement. The sql is below.
I would be very grateful for some help with this please.
select apps.fabg_depreciations.asset_id Asset_Number
,apps.fabg_depreciations.ytd_deprn YTD_Deprn
,apps.fabg_depreciations.deprn_amount Deprn_Amount
,apps.fabg_depreciations.accumulated_deprn Accumulated_Deprn
,apps.fabg_depreciations.reval_reserve Reval_reserve
,apps.fabg_acct_prds.period_name Period
,apps.fabg_asset_bks.original_cost Original_Cost
,apps.fabg_asset_bks.cost Cost
,apps.fabg_assets.asset_category_id Category_ID
,Null Period_Counter
,Null Opening_Dep
,apps.fabg_asset_cats.description Description
from apps.fabg_depreciations
, apps.fabg_acct_prds
, apps.fabg_asset_bks
, apps.fabg_assets
, apps.fabg_asset_cats
where apps.fabg_depreciations.book_type_code= 'ASSETS CCA'
and apps.fabg_depreciations.period_counter =apps.fabg_acct_prds.period_counter
and apps.fabg_asset_bks.asset_id=apps.fabg_depreciations.asset_id(+)
and apps.fabg_assets.asset_id=apps.fabg_asset_bks.asset_id
and apps.fabg_assets.asset_category_id=fabg_asset_cats.asset_category_id
union
select Null Asset_Number
,Null YTD_Deprn
,Null Deprn_Amount
,Null Accumulated_Deprn
,Null Reval_reserve
,Null Period
,Null Original_Cost
,Null Cost
,Null Category_ID
,Null Period_Counter
,decode(apps.fabg_depreciations.period_counter,24096,ytd_deprn,0) Opening_Dep
,Null Description
from apps.fabg_depreciations
, apps.fabg_acct_prds
, apps.fabg_asset_bks
, apps.fabg_assets
, apps.fabg_asset_cats
where apps.fabg_depreciations.book_type_code= 'ASSETS CCA'
and apps.fabg_depreciations.period_counter=24096
and apps.fabg_depreciations.period_counter =apps.fabg_acct_prds.period_counter
and apps.fabg_asset_bks.asset_id=apps.fabg_depreciations.asset_id(+)
and apps.fabg_assets.asset_id=apps.fabg_asset_bks.asset_id
and apps.fabg_assets.asset_category_id=fabg_asset_cats.asset_category_id

Hi...
I've changed the custom code and used an embedded sql instead of a union but I still don't get the required info. I think it's down to the conditions. Can someone please help? Thanks.
This is the revised code:
select apps.fabg_depreciations.asset_id Asset_Number
,apps.fabg_depreciations.ytd_deprn YTD_Deprn
,apps.fabg_depreciations.deprn_amount Deprn_Amount
,apps.fabg_depreciations.accumulated_deprn Accumulated_Deprn
,apps.fabg_depreciations.reval_reserve Reval_reserve
,apps.fabg_acct_prds.period_name Period
,apps.fabg_asset_bks.original_cost Original_Cost
,apps.fabg_asset_bks.cost Cost
,apps.fabg_assets.asset_category_id Category_ID
,OD.accumulated_deprn Opening_Dep
,apps.fabg_asset_cats.description Description
from apps.fabg_depreciations
, apps.fabg_acct_prds
, apps.fabg_asset_bks
, apps.fabg_assets
, apps.fabg_asset_cats
,(select fabg_depreciations.asset_id, fabg_depreciations.accumulated_deprn, fabg_depreciations.period_counter from apps.fabg_depreciations) OD
where apps.fabg_depreciations.book_type_code= 'ASSETS CCA'
and apps.fabg_asset_bks.asset_id=apps.fabg_assets.asset_id
and apps.fabg_assets.asset_id = OD.asset_id
and apps.fabg_assets.asset_id=apps.fabg_depreciations.asset_id
--and apps.fabg_acct_prds.period_counter=apps.fabg_depreciations.period_counter(+)
and apps.fabg_assets.asset_category_id=fabg_asset_cats.asset_category_id
and apps.fabg_depreciations.period_counter=OD.period_counter(+)
and OD.period_counter = 24096

Help with GR/IR, can't clear on MR11

Please help with this case:
We had a purchase with delivery cost included. We create MIGO with no problem. (Credit to GR/IR account = $60)
We cancel the delivery cost in MR11. (Debit to GR/IR Account = $60)
After a few months, we restore Delivery Cost in MR11SHOW (Credit to GR/IR account = $50)
Create MIRO to freight vendor in MIRO (Debit to GR/IR account = $60)
As you may see, now can't clear GR/IR account because there's a difference (60 vs 50) and can't use MR11 neither, I get this error:
No data selected. Check selection parameters!!
Message no. CKMLGRIR009
I have tried with so many post, but can't find anything that works....
Thanks in advance!

Hi Mohsin.
After we cancel the delivery cost with MR11 (let's say, in January) the freight vendor asked us for his payment (in April) and then we realised that we need to restore the delivery cost...
What we did is cancel the MR11 document that we had created before... and there's when the difference in GR/IR was generated.....
I hope that this comments makes a little bit clearer my explanation.
Thanks

Need help with color management

I am looking for someone to help me. Please!
I am looking for help with Photoshop/printer not printing correct colors.
I have: Windows 7, Photoshop CS5, Photoshop Elements, HP Pavillion Laptop, new Okidata C530dn color laser printer
Previously I had a Canon Pixma MP620 and a gentleman from another forum gave me the correct settings for printing on photo paper and colors were perfect. I now have a OKIdata C530dn color laser and have started a business printing business cards and greeting cards, etc., and I do advertisements on a freelance basis.
I will be working a lot with cardstock or cover stock 65-110 lbs paper. I have an old OKIdata 2024e at work, and the colors are much better with that printer than my new personal one. I have tried matching the settings of that printer to mine to no avail. I have finally gotten the color close, but not quite. When I print on my Canon injet the colors match and print perfectly.
I have tried every setting variation that I can think of to get the color correct with my new OKIdata. I have to get the colors correct or my new business will go under because I can't match colors for my customers. I am a self taught Photoshoper and a novice so please bear with me.
Using Okidata PCL. Also have PS
Color settings in Photoshop:
North America General Purpose 2
sRGB 2.1
U.S. Web Coated Swop v2
Dot gain 20 %
Dot gain 20 %
Preserve embeded profile
Preserve embeded profile
Preserve embeded profile
engine: Adobe (ACE)
Relative Colormetric
Tried RGB color mode and CMYK color mode, no difference
Printer settings:
Photoshop manages colors
sRGB 2.1 Printer profile
Relative Colormetric
Print setup:
Letter
Multipurpose tray
Weight: printer settings-default (when I used heavy setting for cardstock it printed green instead of the color light blue, so that was a start to the right color)
Job Options:
Hight Quality
Color: No color matching
Printer preferences in Printer properties:
Color management
Device: Display 1 generic PnP monitor AMD M88og with ATI Mobility Radeon HD4200
ICC Profiles: Generic PnP Monitor (default)
Advanced:
Windows Color System Defaults:
everything under this tab is set at System Default
I have gotten the color close, but colors are dull. I have tried an adjustment layer and setting the saturation higher, but that doesn't help. I know my laptop is showing the right colors, (calibrated) because I am still printing to the Canon with cardstock and the colors are perfect using the same settings above.
Tried printing in PSE and it gave me an error that it was not a post script printer. Installed ps driver, still getting errors and it wouldn't print.
I would appreciate any help you could give me before I run out of toner and have to buy the expensive toners, or just slit my wrists j/k LOL
Thanks! JS

You need an ICC profile for your printer. Chromix has an excellent service at http://www2.chromix.com/colorvalet/ which will do this calibration for you. You download some software they provide, then print a test file on the exact same paper you are using for your cards. Then send the output to them and they will calibrate the colors with their equipment and send you the ICC profile file. Once you have it, you'll be able to print accurate colors.
There are other services out there that may cost less, but I do not know how reputable they are. Chromix is a good business I've worked with many times.
If you are trying to run a business and you don't understand color management yet, you may be in for a lot of trouble. Please get the book "Real World Color Management" available at http://www.colorremedies.com/realworldcolor/ and it will save you a ton of money and headaches.

Hello everyone, hoping for some help with my new Apple Cinema Display 20"

Hi everyone, I bought an Apple Cinema Display 20 inch LCD monitor, just about 3 weeks ago. I have two issues I am hoping to get some help with.
1) I am using the screen on a PC with Windows XP, and I was very disappointed at the lack of PC support. I have no on screen display (OSD), so I can't see what percentage I have my brightness set to, and I can't alter the colour or contrast of the display, etc. Luckily it defaulted to very good settings, but I would really like to be able to use the (fan made?) program called "WinACD". If I would be best asking somewhere else, please direct me there. If not, my problem is that I installed it added the "Controls" tab, but it just says, Virtual Control Panel "None Present". I have tried googling for an answer, and I have seen many suggestions, but none of them worked. I installed the WinACD driver without my USB lead plugged in, and someone said that was important. So I have tried uninstalling, rebooting, then reinstalling it again with the USB plugged in, and a device plugged in to my monitor to be sure. It didn't seem to help. I have actually done this process a few times, just to be sure. So I would really like to get that working if possible.
2) I am disappointed at the uniformity of the colour on the display. I have seen other people mention this (again, after a google search), and that someone seemed to think it is just an issue we have to deal with, with this generation of LCD monitors. Before I bought this screen, I had an NEC (20wgx2), and it had a very similar issue. Most of the time, you cannot see any problem at all, but if you display an entire screen with a dark (none prime) colour, like a dark blue green colour, you can see areas where it is slightly darker than others. It was more defined on the NEC screen, and that is why I returned it. I now bought this Apple Cinema Display, because it was the only good alternative to the NEC. (It has an 8bit S-IPS / AS-IPS panel, which was important to me). But the problem exists in this screen too. It isn't as bad thankfully, but it still exists... I have actually tried a third monitor just to be sure, and the problem existed very slightly in that one, so I think I am probably quite sensitive in that I can detect it.
It is most noticable to me, because I do everything on this PC. I work, I watch films, and I play games. 99% of the time, I cannot see this problem. But in some games (especially one)... the problem is quite noticeable. When you pan the view around, my eyes are drawn to the slight areas on my screen which are darker, and it ruins my enjoyment. To confirm it wasn't just the game, like I said, I can use a program to make the entire screen display one solid colour, and if you pick the right type of colour (anything that isn't a bright primary colour), I can see the problem - albeit fairly faintly.
I am pretty positive that it is not my graphics card or any other component of my PC, by the way, because everything is brand new and working perfectly, and the graphics card specifically, I have upgraded and yet the problem remains - even on the new card. Also, the areas that are darker, are different on this screen than on the other screens I have used.
So basically, I would like to register my disappointment at the lack of perfect uniformity on a screen which cost me £400 (over double what most 20 inch LCD screens cost), and I would like to know if anybody could possibly suggest a way to fix it?
It is upsetting, becuase although this problem exists on other screens too, this is, as far as I know, the most expensive 20" LCD monitor available today, and uses the best technology available too.
p.s. If anyone would like to use the program that lets you set your entire PC screen a specific colour, it is called "Dead Pixel Buddy", and it is a free piece of software, made by somebody to check for dead pixels. But I found it useful for other things too, including looking at how uniform the colour of the screen is. That's not to say I was specifically looking for this problem by the way... the problem cought my eye.
Thanks in advance!
Message was edited by: telelove

I've been talking about this on another forum too, and I made some pictures in photoshop to describe the problem. Here is what I posted on the other forum:
Yes, "brightness uniformity" definitely seems to be the best description of my issue.
Basically it just seems like there are very faint lines down the screen, that are slightly darker than the other areas on the screen. They aren't defined lines, and they aren't in a pattern. It's just slight areas that are darker, and the areas seem like narrow bands/lines. Usually you can't see it, but in some cases, it is quite noticeable. It is mainly when I'm playing a game. The slightly darker areas are not visible, and then when the image moves (because I am turning in a car, or turning a plane, or turning in a shooter etc.) the image moves, but these slightly darker areas stay still, and that makes them really stand out.
As for how it looks, I tried to make an example in photoshop:
Original Image:
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/3045/td1ja9.jpg
Then imagine turning the car around a bend, and then it looks like this:
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/959/td2hq7.jpg
It's those lines in the clouds. If you can tab between the two images, you can see the difference easily. Imagine seeing those lines appear, every single time you move in a game. (I haven't tested this in movies yet, but I am assuming it's the same).
It isn't very clear on a static image. But when the image moves, the darker areas stay in the same place and it draws your eyes towards them. It isn't terrible, but it is annoying, especially consider how much this screen cost.
Message was edited by: telelove

Need help with overlapping divs!

Hey everyone,
I'm working on another website and I have come up against a common problem for newbie designers from what I hear, the dreaded overlapping div problem! I have a 2 column fixed layout with a floating left div. My left div has my nav bar and various images. When my main content div has more content than the left floating div, the left div border does not reach the footer! Until now, I have gotten by with just hitting return in my left column div until it reaches the footer. I am sure it is not the right way to do it but it has worked so far. The problem is, now one of the pages has the left column div overlapping onto the footer! I did some reading and I am guessing it involves either the box properties or clear float which I am not too familiar with.
Any advice would be stellar! I know this is just another stumbling block to get over but I would feel so much better if I was doing it the right way.
Here are screens of my issue,
And here is my code for the page in question.
<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd">
<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8" />
<link rel="shortcut icon" href="http://www.xldesignsonline.com/fchi/favicon.ico">
<title>Full Circle Home Inspections</title>
<link href="_css/main.css" rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" />
<style type="text/css">

</style>
<script src="Scripts/swfobject_modified.js" type="text/javascript"></script>
</head>
<body class="twoColFixLtHdr">
<div id="container">
<div id="header">
 <h1>
</h1></div>
<div id="sidebar1">
 <h3 align="center">
 <object id="FlashID" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" width="200" height="620">
 <param name="movie" value="_assets/menu.swf" />
 <param name="quality" value="high" />
 <param name="wmode" value="opaque" />
 <param name="swfversion" value="6.0.65.0" />
 
 <param name="expressinstall" value="Scripts/expressInstall.swf" />
 
 
 <object type="application/x-shockwave-flash" data="_assets/menu.swf" width="200" height="620">
 
 <param name="quality" value="high" />
 <param name="wmode" value="opaque" />
 <param name="swfversion" value="6.0.65.0" />
 <param name="expressinstall" value="Scripts/expressInstall.swf" />
 
 <div>
 <h4>Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.</h4>
 <a href="http://www.adobe.com/go/getflashplayer"><img src="http://www.adobe.com/images/shared/download_buttons/get_flash_player.gif" alt="Get Adobe Flash player" width="112" height="33" /></a>
 </div>
 
 </object>
 
 </object>
 </h3>
 
 
 <a href="http://www.nachi.org/"><img src="_images/interNACHI.png" alt="InterNACHI" width="190" height="164" border="0" /></a>
 
 
 <a href="http://www.nachi.org/education.htm"><img src="_images/education-seal-small.gif" alt="education seal" width="150" height="150" border="0" /></a>
 
 
 <a href="http://www.iac2.org/"><img src="_images/iac2-all.gif" width="174" height="126" alt="IAC" /></a>
 
 
 <a href="http://www.inspectopia.com/profile.b.507.r.16181.u.03bcfb.html"><img src="_images/logo_top.png" alt="Inspectopedia" width="190" height="45" border="0" /></a>
 
 
 <a href="http://www.energystar.gov/"><img src="_images/img_energy_star_partner.jpg" width="160" height="191" alt="Energy Star Partner" /></a>
 
 
 <a href="http://cjenterprises.myshaklee.com/us/en/welcome.html#"><img src="_images/Shaklee.gif" alt="Shaklee" width="119" height="160" border="0" /></a>
 
 
 <a href="http://activerain.com/"><img src="_images/ARLogoSmall.gif" alt="Active Rain" width="135" height="36" border="0" /></a>
 
 
 <a href="http://www.insiderpages.com/b/15246780294"><img src="_images/insider_pages.gif" alt="Insider Pages" width="89" height="37" border="0" /></a>
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
</div>
<div id="mainContent">
 <h2>Radon Gas Inspection</h2>
 <div id="paragraphFloat">
 <h5>What Is Radon?</h5>
 Radon is a cancer causing radioactive gas. You cannot see, smell or taste radon, but it may be a problem in your home. The Surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today. 
 <div id="apDiv1">
 <div align="center"><a href="http://www.epa.gov/radon/video/epa-epu.wmv"><img src="_images/psa_revised.jpg" alt="What Is Radon?" width="200" height="172" border="0" /></a></div></div></div>
 If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, you're at high risk for developing lung cancer. Some scientific studies of radon exposure indicate that children may be more sensitive to radon. This may be due to their higher respiration rate and their rapidly dividing cells, which may be more vulnerable to radiation damage. 
 
 <h5>Why Is It Dangerous?</h5>
 The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (US EPA) and the Surgeon General's Office have estimated that as many as 20,000 lung cancer deaths are caused each year by radon. Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Radon-induced lung cancer costs the United States over $2 billion dollars per year in both direct and indirect health care costs.
According to the US EPA, nearly 1 in 3 homes checked in seven states and on three Indian lands had screening levels over 4 pCi/L, the EPA's recommended action level for radon exposure.
The alpha radiation emitted by radon is the same alpha radiation emitted by other alpha generating radiation sources such as plutonium.
A family whose home has radon levels of 4 pCi/l is exposed to approximately 35 times as much radiation as the Nuclear Regulatory Commission would allow if that family was standing next to the fence of a radioactive waste site. (25 mrem limit, 800 mrem exposure)
 At the 4 pCi/l EPA action guideline level, radon carries approximately 1000 times the risk of death as any other EPA carcinogen. It is important to note that the action level is not a safe level, as there are no "safe" levels of radon gas.
 
<h5>How Does It Get Into My Home?</h5>
 Radon is a radioactive gas. It comes from the natural decay of uranium that is found in nearly all soils. It typically moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through cracks and other holes in the foundation. Your home traps radon inside, where it can build up. Any home may have a radon problem. This means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements.
 Radon from soil gas is the main cause of radon problems. Sometimes radon enters the home through well water. In a small number of homes, the building materials can give off radon, too. However, building materials rarely cause radon problems by themselves.
Radon gets in through:
<ul>
<li>Cracks in solid floors
 <div id="apDiv3">
 <div align="center"><a href="http://www.fullcirclehomeinspections.com/_assets/CitizensGuideRadon.pdf"><img src="_images/citguidecoverradon.jpg" alt="Guide To Radon" width="154" height="200" border="0" /></a></div>
 </div>
</li>
<li>Construction joints</li>
<li>Cracks in walls</li>
<li>Gaps in suspended floors</li>
<li>Gaps around service pipes</li>
<li>Cavities inside walls</li>
<li>Surrounding water supply</li>
</ul>
 
<h5>What Can I Do?</h5>
 Radon is a national environmental health problem. Elevated radon levels have been discovered in every state. The US EPA estimates that as many as 8 million homes throughout the country have elevated levels of radon. Current state surveys show that 1 home in 5 has elevated radon levels.
 Testing is the only way to know your home's radon levels. There are no immediate symptoms that will alert you to the presence of radon. It typically takes years of exposure before any problems surface. 
Let Full Circle Home Inspections ensure your family and your home are protected and safe from radon exposure!
 
<h5>Radon Myths</h5>
MYTH: Scientists are not sure that radon really is a problem.
<blockquote>
FACT: Although some scientists dispute the precise number of deaths due to radon, all the major health organizations (like the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the American Lung Association and the American Medical Association) agree with estimates that radon causes thousands of preventable lung cancer deaths every year. This is especially true among smokers, since the risk to smokers is much greater than to non-smokers.
</blockquote>
MYTH: Radon testing is difficult, time-consuming and expensive.
<blockquote>
FACT: Radon testing is easy. You can test your home yourself or hire a qualified radon test company. Either approach takes only a small amount of time and effort.
</blockquote>
MYTH: Homes with radon problems can't be fixed.
<blockquote>
FACT: There are simple solutions to radon problems in homes. Hundreds of thousands of homeowners have already fixed radon problems in their homes. Most homes can be fixed for about the same cost as other common home repairs; check with one or more qualified mitigators. Call your <a href="http://www.epa.gov/radon/whereyoulive.html">state radon office</a> for help in identifying qualified mitigation contractors.
</blockquote>
MYTH: Radon affects only certain kinds of homes.
<blockquote>
FACT: House construction can affect radon levels. However, radon can be a problem in homes of all types: old homes, new homes, drafty homes, insulated homes, homes with basements, and homes without basements. Local geology, construction materials, and how the home was built are among the factors that can affect radon levels in homes.
</blockquote>
MYTH: Radon is only a problem in certain parts of the country.
<blockquote>
FACT: High radon levels have been found in every state. Radon problems do vary from area to area, but the only way to know your radon level is to test.
</blockquote>
MYTH: A neighbor's test result is a good indication of whether your home has a problem.
<blockquote>
FACT: It's not. Radon levels can vary greatly from home to home. The only way to know if your home has a radon problem is to test it.
</blockquote>
MYTH: Everyone should test their water for radon.
<blockquote>
FACT: Although radon gets into some homes through water, it is important to first test the air in the home for radon. If your water comes from a public water supply that uses ground water, call your water supplier. If high radon levels are found and the home has a private well, call the Safe Drinking Water Hotline at 1-800-426-4791 for information on testing your water.
</blockquote>
MYTH: It's difficult to sell homes where radon problems have been discovered.
<blockquote>
FACT: Where radon problems have been fixed, home sales have not been blocked or frustrated. The added protection is some times a good selling point.
</blockquote>
MYTH: I've lived in my home for so long, it doesn't make sense to take action now.
<blockquote>
FACT: You will reduce your risk of lung cancer when you reduce radon levels, even if you've lived with a radon problem for a long time.
</blockquote>
MYTH: Short-term tests can't be used for making a decision about whether to fix your home.
<blockquote>
FACT: A short-term test, followed by a second short-term test* can be used to decide whether to fix your home. However, the closer the average of your two short-term tests is to 4 pCi/L, the less certain you can be about whether your year-round average is above or below that level. Keep in mind that radon levels below 4 pCi/L still pose some risk. Radon levels can be reduced in most homes to 2 pCi/L or below.
 
 
 
<img src="_images/CA-3.jpg" width="520" height="207" />
</blockquote>
</div>
<div id="footer">
 © 2009 XL Designs Online - All Rights Reserved 
</div>
</div>
<script type="text/javascript">

</script>
</body>
</html>
And here is my CSS if needed,
@charset "utf-8";
body {
 font: 100% Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;
 background: #666666;
 margin: 0; /* it's good practice to zero the margin and padding of the body element to account for differing browser defaults */
 padding: 0;
 text-align: center; /* this centers the container in IE 5* browsers. The text is then set to the left aligned default in the #container selector */
 color: #000000;
.twoColFixLtHdr #container {
 width: 950px; /* the auto margins (in conjunction with a width) center the page */
 border: 1px solid #000000;
 text-align: left; /* this overrides the text-align: center on the body element. */
 margin-top: 20px;
 margin-right: auto;
 margin-bottom: 20px;
 margin-left: auto;
 background-color: #557050;
.twoColFixLtHdr #header {
 border-bottom: 1px solid #000000;
 height: 250px;
 background-color: #DDDDDD;
 padding-top: 0;
 padding-right: 10px;
 padding-bottom: 0;
 padding-left: 20px;
 background-image: url(../_images/homebanner1.png);
.twoColFixLtHdr #header h1 {
 margin: 0; /* zeroing the margin of the last element in the #header div will avoid margin collapse - an unexplainable space between divs. If the div has a border around it, this is not necessary as that also avoids the margin collapse */
 padding: 20px 0; /* using padding instead of margin will allow you to keep the element away from the edges of the div */
 text-align: center;
 font-size: 48px;
 font-family: Tahoma, Geneva, sans-serif;
 color: #000;
.twoColFixLtHdr #sidebar1 {
 float: left; /* since this element is floated, a width must be given */
 width: 200px;
 border-right: 1px solid #000000;
 background-color: #557050;
 padding-top: 0px;
 padding-right: 10px;
 padding-bottom: 15px;
 padding-left: 10px;
.twoColFixLtHdr #mainContent {
 margin-top: 0;
 margin-right: 0;
 margin-bottom: 0;
 margin-left: 250px;
 padding-top: 0;
 padding-right: 20px;
 padding-bottom: 0;
 padding-left: 20px;
 text-align: left;
.twoColFixLtHdr #mainContent h1 {
 font-size: 48px;
 font-family: "Arial Rounded MT Bold";
 font-weight: bold;
.twoColFixLtHdr #mainContent h2 {
 font-family: "Arial Rounded MT Bold";
 font-size: 32px;
.twoColFixLtHdr #mainContent h3 {
 font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", Times, serif;
 font-style: italic;
 color: #CF0;
 font-size: 125%;
.twoColFixLtHdr #mainContent h5 {
 font-size: 120%;
.twoColFixLtHdr #footer {
 padding: 20px 10px 20px 20px;
 border-top: 1px solid #000000;
 background-color: #A3A3A3;
 font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;
.twoColFixLtHdr #footer p {
 margin: 0; /* zeroing the margins of the first element in the footer will avoid the possibility of margin collapse - a space between divs */
 padding: 10px 0; /* padding on this element will create space, just as the the margin would have, without the margin collapse issue */
.fltrt { /* this class can be used to float an element right in your page. The floated element must precede the element it should be next to on the page. */
 float: right;
 margin-left: 8px;
.fltlft { /* this class can be used to float an element left in your page */
 float: left;
 margin-right: 8px;
.clearfloat { /* this class should be placed on a div or break element and should be the final element before the close of a container that should fully contain a float */
 clear:both;
 height:0;
 font-size: 1px;
 line-height: 0px;
#paragraphFloat {
 width: 350px;
#paragraphFloat2 {
 width: 350px;
Please if anyone knows what I'm doing wrong please please let me know! Since I am learning, I really want to get main concepts like this down so I am not constantly doing things the hard way! Thank you!
Jayson

1) Regarding validation, what does it do?
It validates by telling you where your code isn't er... valid. Sometimes the results are a bit jumbled but if you work through them one at a time and revalidate, it's a good way to learn. If you fix all of the errors shown up through the validator you should end up with standards compliant code. Not necessarily the best, most efficient code you can write but at least it will be valid and it helps you spot errors that hours of code-staring never seems to find.
I don't use the DW validation tool because I find the W3c one easier.
The W3c validator has a check box of HTML Tidy which can tidy up your code but it's not always as easy to see what changes.
2) I know the tag for spacing is wrong, I could just feel it in my bones. I just didn't know what else to do. If I all the way down won't the code be just as cluttered?
You're obviously a born web coder!
 will bloat your page if you use them to position elements.
Here you need to get used to a) the Block Model and b) CSS positioning. Once you crack these, CSS opens up for you and becomes a little more intuitive.
if you have two elements on top of each other rather than push them apart with other elements you do it with padding and/or margin. There are things to watch out for here namely, collapsing margins but if you start to read up on the above, you'll get it.
I just thought of something. If I add a div in main content, align it to the bottom center with CSS, use a line break between it and the text above, and add the image in question in the new div, will the spacing between the text and image work itself out? I just really want to get out of the bad habit.
Keep thinking! Web design is not like desktop publishing or print. Elements on a HTML page don't behave like paragraphs on a page. Once you begin to figure out why not it all gets a little easier.
If you want an image at the bottom an element you put that at the end of the content in that element. Then you need to ensure there is no margin, padding or border between the img element and the next element (your footer). HTML elements come with some styling that is applied by default in the browser. Many web developers include a rule like this:
body {
margin: 0;
padding:0;
This sets the margin and padding to zero of course and it's purpose is to override the defaults. Some people advocate applying similar rules to all elements and if your interested try googling Eric Meyer who has written about it online.
One of the key purposes of CSS is to take styling out of the page. It's leaner, more efficient for the viewer and the coder and helps with site management.
3) AP divs are weird, and I did only use as a last resort.
See? You're a natural!
The reason is I am confused by the float and clear float classes. My left column is floated left and that element is what I was having problems understanding. I tried to make new divs and float right but I screwed it all up. I am sure I am just not applying the clear float in the right places.
Getting the hang of floating is key to CSS positioning. You use a float if you want two elements to sit side by side on the page. It disrupts the "document flow." Ordinarily HTML elements are rendered one after the other, on top of each other. Floating an element takes it out of the document flow and allows other elements to occupy its space. When you float an element it should always have a width. If the element below it also has a width, that width has to be sufficiently narrow to allow it to occupy the space. In short, floated elements can't be wider than their containing element.
The clear property is used after a float to stop an element occupying the space left by a floated element. It works but confuses the heck out of me!
So that leads me to my final point. I am a novice too! I might have fluffed a few of the technical points above but it's pretty much there.
Regards
Martin

Tips and help with re-installing Lion over Snow Leopard

I had MAJOR issues with my initial Lion install on my Mid-2009 MBP- so much so, that I had to wipe my hard drive and re-install Snow Leopard and all my applications. My major issues were as follows:
1. All my files were locked out- I could open them in most cases, but I couldn't overwrite them- Lion had aded some funky permissions scheme that I didn't recognize, and my user name wasn't present on any of them. In some cases, I couldn't even open files, even though they were resident on my hard drive (and in my own user folder) before the upgrade to Lion.
2. Apple's own Universal Binary apps wouldn't work after the upgrade. Final Cut Pro 6, in particular, came up with a message that it was a "PowerPC" app and wouldn't run- yet Shake 4.1 would run just fine!
3. Adobe Creative Suite 3- after the upgrade, my Abode Ceative Suite 3 apps worked just fine, for about a day- that is, until I tried to correct the file permissions issue by changing permission on a few of my folders in my User folder (and electing to change permissions in the files contained therein)- at which point my Adobe apps told me that they were damaged and needed to be reinstalled. Yet after uninstaling and reinstalling the entire Creative Suite 3 times, I still would get the same message.
My entire workflow is Adobe CS and FCS2- why chould I have to pay the upgrade costs just to use Lion? FCPX is completely brkoen for my workflow and eqipment, and Adobe can't even guarantee that CS5 works with Lion- so why does Apple insist on Lion when it's hardly even compatible with its own products?
I really want to use Lion, but I am looking for some tips on instalation to kep these problems from happening again. I didn' have ANY of these problems with upgrading OS 10.2 through 10.6. Any help with prepping my system/files for upgrading would be helpful. Thanks!

any new Apple kB articles
http://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=articles
Me, I think clone backups are more useful, and only use T.M. as secondary.
Using Cloning as a Backup Strategy
I'd assume that professional apps may need to be tested still; and of course check to see what you have that depends on PowerPC code and Rosetta first. That has some in a tither.
A clone lets you still be able to boot Snow Leopard. Check out Carbon Copy, SuperDuper.

Can anyone help with email in my old G4 17" ??

My G4 17", bought December 2004, is considered an antique by Apple, and no longer supported. (I now mostly use my early 2011 MacBookPro.)
But the big screen on by G4 is very useful for Sibelius 4, the music program I mostly use (Sibelius 7 in the MacBookPro - but much too fussy for me.)
Sibelius 4 in the G4 continues to work flawlessly.
But my email account recently sort of died. It's POP account (whatever that means). I can no longer receive messages, BUT I can still create and
send new messages, and of course forward any saved message to myself in the MacBookPro.
ALSO: if I have to shut down the G4, it usually reopens with a horizontally divided display, and it usually takes many restarts before it will open
will a full screen display (seems to reopen correctly more often if left in a cool place overnight.)
Can anyone help with one or both these issues? I want to keep the G4 going as long as I can. BTW, I don't use it for browsing anyone, Safari installed,
because it is now so slow. The MacBookPro handles all that for me.
Thanks very much, James Johnson in Plattsburgh NY (where it is still cold and wintry, o f--k)

To RCCHARLES: THANKS !!!! I did the safe boot start, following the link you provided, then waited, and waited, and waited, and ---
Well that is interesting. Amoung other things safe boot does:
-- check and fixes up your file system. The files system allows you to keep files on your harddrive.
-- Does all video rendering in software.
You could have a one time glitch or harddrive is slowly failing. If you never replaced the harddrive, it is time for a new one.
You may want to consider getting a new harddrive. The easiest way is to get an external drive. No disassembly of the machine is required.
You need an external Firewire drive to boot a PowerPC Mac computer [ a few G5's will boot from USB ].
I recommend you do a google search on any external harddrive you are looking at.
I bought a low cost external drive enclosure. When I started having trouble with it, I did a google search and found a lot of complaints about the drive enclosure. I ended up buying a new drive enclosure. On my second go around, I decided to buy a drive enclosure with a good history of working with Macs. The chip set seems to be the key ingredient. The Oxford line of chips seems to be good. I got the Oxford 911.
I'd give OWC a call. 1-815-338-8685.
FireWire 800 + USB 3, + eSATA
save a little money interface:
FireWire 400 + USB 2.0
This web page lists both external harddrive types. You may need to scroll to the right to see both.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/1394/USB/EliteAL/eSATA_FW800_FW400_USB
     (2) FireWire 800/400 Ports (Up to 100MB/s / 50MB/s)
     (1) USB 3.0 Port (Up to 500MB/s / 60MB/s)
     (1) eSATA Port (Up to 300MB/s)
Has a combo firewire 800/400 port. Not sure what this is. Looks like you will need 400 cable.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/ministack

How to transfer posting with reference to Subcontracting Order?

Hi, Experts,
Regarding to the SAP SCM510 handbook, in the section of subcontracting,it mentions 3 ways to post the provision of components from own company to stock for vendor:
1.) Transfer posting with reference to subcontracting order
2.) Monitoring of Subcontracting stock(using t-code ME2O)
3.) Transfer posting without reference to PO(using movement tyep 541 + O)
For the items 2 and 3, I can understand the processes but for item 1, I don't know how I can perform Transfer posting with reference to subcontracting order? Anyone can explain me on the processes?
Thanks in advance.
Fanghua

Shetty,
Thank you for your help. I am really a new SAP learner. I wasn't aware of the transaction code MB1A, MB1B and MB1C etc. But I tried the way you mentioned, it works.
My initial conern on this is really from the Enjoy transaction - MIGO. I tried to select the tranaction - Transfer Posting but it doesn't have Purchase Order(or subcontracting Order) as reference.
How can I transfer posting with reference to subcontracting order in the transaction - MIGO?
Thanks.
Fanghua

Please help with CS3 -shobat

I would like to know where I can get help regarding reinstalling Photoshop CS3. I bought Photoshop a long time ago when it was on a disk. I kept upgrading it until I had upgraded it to CS3. Recently my computer crashed that had the Photoshop CS3 on it. I'm trying to get the Photoshop CS3 on my new computer, but it wants the serial # of the original program, but it DOES NOT list the photoshop 3 or photoshop 4 that I bougt years ago. I registered Photoshop CS3 so it should be on file that I own it. Can anyone tell me where I can get help with this. CS3 cost me a lot of money and I like using it.

You might be out of luck since Adobe no longer provides support for CS3. The only hope you might have is to contact Adobe Support by chat or by phone and explain to them your scenario and hope that you get someone who is willing to work a bit and see what they can do to help you thru.
Here is a link to a page with options to help make contact:
http://www.adobe.com/support/download-install/supportinfo/
If all else fails you might try following the path of the user in response 9 of the following thread to see if someone can assist you... http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1443854?tstart=0

Need help with interface development

Hi i need help with requirement below with developing interface between or online order system and sap plz lemme know what is bapi i use for creating customer, update and assigining partner id to costumer.
SAP Development
1.     Using standards SAP functional module (with BAPI), create interface that will create/change Ordering party customer in SAP. Following fields are mandatory for customer creation:
     MANDT     Client
     VKORG     Sales organization
     VTWEG     Distribution Channel
     SPART     Division
     KDGRP     Customer Group (= ZORP)
     KUNNR     Customer number
     NAME1     Name 1
     NAME 2     Name 2 (if required)
     SORTL     Search term (short description)
     ZZALTKN     Search term 2 (old customer number)
     LAND1     Country
     ORT01     City
     PSTLZ      Zip Code
     REGIO      Region (state in USA)
     STRAS     Street
     TELF1     Primary telephone number
     TELFX     Primary Fax number
     ZZPRPLANS     Payment Plan
     CCINS     Payment card: Card type
     CCNUM     Payment cards: Card number
     CCDEF     Payment Card: Default Card Indicator
     ZBDGID     Customer Budget ID
     ZHOLD     Budget Hold indicator
     ZZCOSTCENT     Cost Center
2.     Upon successful customer creation system will issues S (success) message that customer has been created.
3.     New ordering party customer created in step ½, will have to be assigned as new partner to its belonging Sold-to/Ship-to customer. Use standard SAP customer functional module in order to perform this partner ID assignment. Partner ID for ordering party should be ZO.
1.7     Enhancement Functionality
Apart from creating a new interface to do the required functionality, the Order Create Interface also has to be changed to accommodate a field to pass the Ordering Party Number on the Order. The technicalities of how we are going to implement the interface will be laid out in the Tech Specs.
Thanks
in advance

You have double posted, please mark this one as "solved on my own" and refer to this thread
need help with interface development
Regards,
Rich Heilman

Exchange Rate Difference in PO with cost center assignment

Hi All,
In case of exchange rate difference in a PO with a cost center assignment the system Do not post the difference in the exchange rate difference account (maintained under transaction type - KDM - in T-code OBYC). However if the PO is a normal material PO it posts the exchange rate difference to the exchange rate difference account.
I want the exchange rate difference to be posted to the exchange rate difference accout for PO's with cost center assigned as well.
I have searched for SAP notes and found that note # 980402 & 1102481 provides a solution for this issue - but it seems both the notes are valid for 4.6 and 6 release only. We are on ECC 5.0
I have also checked note # 1136145 for this and implemented in the system successfully without any luck.
Can some one please help me with a solution for this issue.
Thanks and regards,
Ankur

Even I have implemented this note in our 4.6C system for account assigned POs, but no luck. Please let me know if are successful.
Thanks
Neel

Help with Costs in Subcontracting

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