Help with hooking up equipment

I have a HDTV, HD DVR (6416) and a standard VCR/DVD combo that I want to hook together. Can't find any diagrams and Verizon won't help me. Can anyone tell me how to connect the 3 pieces together? My kids are really missing their DVDs. It all worked until I hooked up the DVR recently.

Wiring Diagrams The model, size, and color of your FiOS TV equipment may vary. To find the wiring diagrams for your Set-Top Box, DVR, or digital adapter, select your specific equipment model below:
High Definition DVRs
Cisco CHS 435HDC
Motorola 7216
Motorola 6416
Standard Definition DVRs
Motorola 2708
Digital Adapter
Motorola DCT-700
High Definition Set-Top Boxes
Cisco CHS 335HDC
Motorola 7100-P2
Motorola 7100-P1
Motorola 6200
Standard Definition Set-Top Boxes
Motorola 2500

Similar Messages

Need HELP with hooking up my X-Fi & my Minidisc. No sou

Hello. I am getting seriously frustrated with this. The reason I just shelled out $200+ for my new X-Fi Platinum Soundcard is so I could transfer what I have on these minidisc's to my PC. I've hooked it up exactly as the diagram shows. What do I get? Nothing. No sound at all, no way to record. I've spent over six hours scouring the knowledge base and these boards for an answer to no avail. The soundcard has worked so far with everything else for me.. plays mp3's and regular PC sounds...haven't tried to play any CD's or DVD's yet.

I have hooked up my minidisc player: I have a 3.50 mm (/8-inch) optical miniplug-to-optical SPDIF cable which I have connected to the Optical SPDIF In jack on my X-Fi I/O Dri've. I tried recording and got nothing. I switched it to the Optical SPDIF Out jack and played the minidisk and got no sound that way either! What am I doing wrong?

Heck, on an old computer I had about 7 years ago I had a Soundblaster Li've Platinum and that's how I initially got what I have on the minidisc's! I cannot remember for the life of me how I hooked it up. I feel like I'm jumping through hoops trying to figure this all out now!

There are ZERO instructions besides the section on how to hook it up. I need help! I'm begging here...how do I get this to work?

Thanks in Advance,

JayMessage Edited by OTR_Buff on -4-2005 0:49 PM

I really must be some kind of stupid. I went to my mixer and changed the microphone to spdif in. There are several mute buttons in the mixer, but I am certain you mean the mute button located in the same column. I muted that then tried recording but it recorded air only once again. Also, I am not even able to hear what is playing on my minidisc player without headphones. Is this normal?
Heck, if I could just get it to play through my speakers even I could use "What You Hear" to record it.
Anyway, I got an error message that reads, "Unknown or invalid SPDIF signal. Please check that you have connected your S/PDIF gear correctly and playback has started." What gives?
Thanks for your reply!
Jayson

Need help with hooking up XBox live on my router

I am trying to hook up my xbox 360 live and it doesn't seem to want to work.
I have a laptop set up to my router and now I am trying to get the xboxx live to set up and it is saying it isn't connected.
How do I go about doing that with this router?
I can not find any directions online or in the book I received with my router.
Model #WRT54G
The first port I left empty thinking the xbox would use that one and the second one I have my computer in it for my wireless.
What do I go and how do I go about hooking xbox live up with this?
Thanks
This is the message I sent to tech support (which was on my router box) but seems to be no email tech support anymore.

I am also facing the same issue ....... i found this link ..... it should help you also .....

Help with hooking up printer

I have an old HP Desktop HP Compaq dc7900 computer. I just purchased a HP 1010 deskjet printer. The printer cord I have is not compatablile with this printer. Can this printer be connected to this computer? I am not very good with these issues and before I give up I was hoping someone might be able to help me with this problem. Should I just returnt he printer? Let me know. Thanks, PJ11397
This question was solved.
View Solution.

The dc7900 CMT (as shown here) has Serial (2, 1 optional), parallel (optional), eSATA (optional), USB 2.0 (8), USB 2.0, internal on system board (2), RJ-45, front and rear audio jacks (2 each), PS/2 ports (2), VGA connector. The Hp1010 is USB. All you need is a USB cable (as shown here) for $1.99
I am a volunteer. I am not an HP employee.
To say THANK YOU, press the "thumbs up symbol" to render a KUDO. Please click Accept as Solution, if your problem is solved. You can render both Solution and KUDO.
The Law of Effect states that positive reinforcement increases the probability of a behavior being repeated. (B.F.Skinner). You toss me KUDO and/or Solution, and I perform better.
(2) HP DV7t i7 3160QM 2.3Ghz 8GB
HP m9200t E8400,Win7 Pro 32 bit. 4GB RAM, ASUS 550Ti 2GB, Rosewill 630W. 1T HD SATA 3Gb/s
Custom Asus P8P67, I7-2600k, 16GB RAM, WIN7 Pro 64bit, EVGA GTX660 2GB, 750W OCZ, 1T HD SATA 6Gb/s
Custom Asus P8Z77, I7-3770k, 16GB RAM, WIN7 Pro 64bit, EVGA GTX670 2GB, 750W OCZ, 1T HD SATA 6Gb/s
Both Customs use Rosewill Blackhawk case.
Printer -- HP OfficeJet Pro 8600 Plus

Need help with hooking up my Xbox 360 to my X-Fi I/O Bay via Toslink (Optical)...it's not worki

So here's the deal:
I have connected a Monster toslink optical audio cable to my Xbox 360's component cable. I have that toslink cable running to the Optical In jack on the I/O bay of my X-Fi. I'm trying to get the audio from the xbox to play through my computer speakers, which are hooked up to my X-Fi card, but no sound is coming out!
I have absolutely no idea what to do. Can anybody help me?

Please, can't anyone help me on this? I'd hate to think that I wasted $80 on my X-fi.....

Help With Hooking Up A Google Apps Mail Account With Mail.app v 4.4?

I'd really appreciate it if someone could help me out with this, basically I'm at university, and my university E-mail account is set up through google apps. It looks like this "[email protected]", and I'd like to be able to access this account through Mail.app, but I'm struggling to get the two to play nice, does anyone know what incoming and outcoming settings I need to use to get it to work, or if there's any settings I need to alter in Gmail itself first?
Thanks a lot in advance for any help anyone can give me.
Sam

Sorry, sorted it, just had to fill it all out like a normal IMAP Gmail account but fill out my entire email address anytime it asked for a username.

Help with hooking a windows 98 system to router

How to I hook my computer with windows 98 on it _to my WRT54G wireless router....

Connect the computer to wireless router ...using ethernet Cable ..... at Port 1 or 4 ....
Check the Ip address on the Local Area Connection using DOS window ....
If getting Ip ... 192.168.1.1 ..... try to ping the Ip ....
If you are using Cable Connection .... try this ....
Access the setup page of the router by launching an
Browser and type on the address bar, 192.168.1.1 and press enter. When
it prompts for the username and password, leave the username field
empty and provide password as "admin" (Without quotes)
click on ok.
On the main setup page the ""Internet Connection Type"" should be
on ""Obtain IP Automatically - DHCP “. Click on the Save Settings
button.
Now click on the sub tab ""MAC address clone"".
- Click on enable
Click Clone & click save settings
Check WAN Ip on Status page of router ....
If getting Valid Ip .... try going online
If not ... power cycle for 4-5 minutes & then agian check the WAN Ip address .....
If you are using DSL connection .....
On the main setup page the ""Internet Connection Type"" should be
on ""Obtain IP Automatically - DHCP “. Click on the Save Settings
button.
Now click on the sub tab ""MAC address clone"".
- Click on enable
Click Clone & click save settings
Check WAN Ip on Status page of router ....
If getting Valid Ip .... try going online
If not ... power cycle for 4-5 minutes & then agian check the WAN Ip address .....

I need help with hooking up my MIDI USB keyboard to Logic Pro 9

I don;t have much experience with the program and i need to know how to be able to play my Akai LPK25 with the software instrument option.

I'm assuming the Akai came with a manual, I know Logic did, you're going to have to do a little of the work yourself, your question is so vauge that no one knows what you're tried, or if you've even tried anything at all! This is professional software... you HAVE to read manuals... have you used Garageband? Have you plugged the Akai in, have you looked in Logic's online help systen to see how to load a software instrument?
Or job is not to hold your hand, this is a user forum, there are people here that will help but you need to to some work on your own.

I need help with hook ups

I just bought two stanton turntables and a mixer last week, and today bought a Y Audio cable in order to hook them up to my comp. i have a mac book and was wondeirng how to play the turntables threw the computer as well as how to record in garage band? thanks everyone!

although a slightly different question, it holds some answers for you:
http://www.bulletsandbones.com/GB/GBFAQ.html#turntable
then
http://www.bulletsandbones.com/GB/GBFAQ.html#recordlinein
create a New Basic track and hit Record.

In need Of help with a Westell 2200 Modem and a new Router

Okay, here's the situation:
I am trying to hook up a Linksys wireless Router.
When I try to access the Modem to activate "bridge mode," I am unable to. Apparently back 3-4 years ago, my mother thought it would be a good, safe idea to change the username and password of the router. It's real safe considering she forgot what she changed it to.
My question is:
Is there any way/chance I can get into the modem some other way?
Thanks to anyone who can help in any way!

#1 When you tried to log-in to the router:
a) Did you get a log-in screen?
b) Did you try physically by wire connecting your computer to the router?
#2 Did you try the reset method?
With most network equipment, the reset method is..
Press and hold the reset button/switch while turning off and back on the power to the router.
If you are the original poster (OP) and your issue is solved, please remember to click the "Solution?" button so that others can more easily find it. If anyone has been helpful to you, please show your appreciation by clicking the "Kudos" button.

Help with display quality (LCD TV)

I've hooked up my Mac mini to my Samsung 32" LCD TV via HDMI cable.
The overall quality is just far from desireable and is taking away all of the fun from using this new mac.
I set the resolution output to 720p, which is what the TV supports. So that's good.
I played slightly with the Contrast and Brightness on the TV settings.
But I must be missing something. Although the image is sharp, it's very difficult to read from 6ft away, pictures look terrible (seeing the same picture on a different computer and monitor is so much more revealing), and the display is bad for everything basically.
Please help with any settings suggestions or perhaps a detailed guideline for my setup.
I started to configure a color profile on the display settings but the results weren't that great and I reverted to default. Too many subtle changes. My colorblindness probably doesn't help.
Thanks.

Thanks for the response.
It's the latest Mac Mini with 2.5ghz i5, AMD Radeon HD 6630M, and 8GB RAM.
I am familiar with the "Just Scan" setting under picture size on the Samsung TV.
I'll look for the digital noise reduction.
Are there complete guides with recommended settings for different setups? Or maybe even general, that would help me here?
Thanks.

Need help with color management

I am looking for someone to help me. Please!
I am looking for help with Photoshop/printer not printing correct colors.
I have: Windows 7, Photoshop CS5, Photoshop Elements, HP Pavillion Laptop, new Okidata C530dn color laser printer
Previously I had a Canon Pixma MP620 and a gentleman from another forum gave me the correct settings for printing on photo paper and colors were perfect. I now have a OKIdata C530dn color laser and have started a business printing business cards and greeting cards, etc., and I do advertisements on a freelance basis.
I will be working a lot with cardstock or cover stock 65-110 lbs paper. I have an old OKIdata 2024e at work, and the colors are much better with that printer than my new personal one. I have tried matching the settings of that printer to mine to no avail. I have finally gotten the color close, but not quite. When I print on my Canon injet the colors match and print perfectly.
I have tried every setting variation that I can think of to get the color correct with my new OKIdata. I have to get the colors correct or my new business will go under because I can't match colors for my customers. I am a self taught Photoshoper and a novice so please bear with me.
Using Okidata PCL. Also have PS
Color settings in Photoshop:
North America General Purpose 2
sRGB 2.1
U.S. Web Coated Swop v2
Dot gain 20 %
Dot gain 20 %
Preserve embeded profile
Preserve embeded profile
Preserve embeded profile
engine: Adobe (ACE)
Relative Colormetric
Tried RGB color mode and CMYK color mode, no difference
Printer settings:
Photoshop manages colors
sRGB 2.1 Printer profile
Relative Colormetric
Print setup:
Letter
Multipurpose tray
Weight: printer settings-default (when I used heavy setting for cardstock it printed green instead of the color light blue, so that was a start to the right color)
Job Options:
Hight Quality
Color: No color matching
Printer preferences in Printer properties:
Color management
Device: Display 1 generic PnP monitor AMD M88og with ATI Mobility Radeon HD4200
ICC Profiles: Generic PnP Monitor (default)
Advanced:
Windows Color System Defaults:
everything under this tab is set at System Default
I have gotten the color close, but colors are dull. I have tried an adjustment layer and setting the saturation higher, but that doesn't help. I know my laptop is showing the right colors, (calibrated) because I am still printing to the Canon with cardstock and the colors are perfect using the same settings above.
Tried printing in PSE and it gave me an error that it was not a post script printer. Installed ps driver, still getting errors and it wouldn't print.
I would appreciate any help you could give me before I run out of toner and have to buy the expensive toners, or just slit my wrists j/k LOL
Thanks! JS

You need an ICC profile for your printer. Chromix has an excellent service at http://www2.chromix.com/colorvalet/ which will do this calibration for you. You download some software they provide, then print a test file on the exact same paper you are using for your cards. Then send the output to them and they will calibrate the colors with their equipment and send you the ICC profile file. Once you have it, you'll be able to print accurate colors.
There are other services out there that may cost less, but I do not know how reputable they are. Chromix is a good business I've worked with many times.
If you are trying to run a business and you don't understand color management yet, you may be in for a lot of trouble. Please get the book "Real World Color Management" available at http://www.colorremedies.com/realworldcolor/ and it will save you a ton of money and headaches.

Help with larger sized voice wlan.... design considerations.... tips...etc...

Hi Everyone,
I'm hoping that you guys and gals can help me with an ongoing problem that we have at one of our sites. We're working on areas of the location due to it's size and phone load. We have an area, that I will refer to as building A, that is roughly a square that is 240' x 240'. The inside of the building has some pallets inside for storage(they allow RF to penetrate through them) and also some metal production lines. There is also a mezzanine / elevated area in the middle that the users can walk under. It's not very large, but it would affect a phone if you walked underneath it while making a call. So, now that I have a brief description of the environment, I will tell you the equipment I'm running...
1 x 4402 50AP Wireless Controller with 6.0.199.3 (MR3) installed.
We currently have nine AP's installed in this area, with 4 up front so that way they cover the office areas better. Most are 1231G's, but some are 1242's.
Since we do not have A radios everywhere (budgetary decision) we are running all of these phones on 2.4Ghz (Yikes! I know!)
The 7920's use LEAP and the 7921's use PEAP MS-CHAP v2 with CCKM enabled on the controller.
I also have 802.1p wired QoS enabled for the voice QoS profile and it is applied to our voice WLAN.
We have conference rooms in the front area that will need to support roughly 20-30 maximum mixed 7920 and 7921G phones in a roughly small area. (Yikes! I know!)
We also have a 2106 with mesh .54M installed, but it is for outdoor AP's and should not be affecting this area.
So, I guess my questions are....
Has anyone ever operated the 7920 and 7921G's in mixed mode?
I'm thinking about separating the 7920s on 2.4 and tell the 7921's to prefer the A band or just use A. This will require A radios / surgery, but we've dealt with different code trains, TAC configs, and even added a few more radios. I think it's time to say we need to redesign this area. It doesn't help that phones keep getting purchased either....
What rule of thumb would you guys / gals say would be appropriate for this phone count in terms of the number of AP's I should use?
Since we're dealing with two different phone models, it makes it hard to simply just read the deployment guide. I know these phones can coexist, I just think we're running into over capacity and problems with 802.11B in the mix. In the conf room right now, there are most likely signals from at least two AP's. This doesn't seem like enough bandwidth for just the 2.4 Ghz range when 20 - 30 phones are in there. Not all of them are calling, but the associations / mgmt traffic alone must be horrendous since the phones are 802.11B
We are going to do a manual survey with a 1242 since that AP will support both phone models. I think we may need to survey twice if we're going to go this route; One survey for the 7920's on 2.4Ghz with a 1242AG and one survey on 5Ghz with a 7921G. I think that will provide the info we need to get the AP's repositioned where they need to be.
What kind of power levels should I be using in an area like that? We've originally had a survey at 50mW, but since then we turned the power down to pwr lvl 3 in some spots due to the additional AP's. I've seen references of roughly 1 AP per 3000 sq. ft at pwr level 4, but that seems overkill.
Can we run mixed power levels on AP's with the phones? Or will that cause one way audio due to the transmit power diffrences in the cells?
I'm thinking that we should pick a power level, survey the -67 cell size at the power level, add more AP's so that way they are overlapped 15-20%, and then actually implement the design. I'm pretty good at getting decent channel assignments in place. I know of non-overlapping channels, RRM, etc. I also have an AirMagnet laptop with an Aironet Adapter. It is good for finding noise, interference, etc...
I understand this is practically a book, but at this point, we've been trying a LOT of different things in order to get this to work properly. I think it's finally time for me to "strongly suggest" that we do the following...
1. Choose ONE phone model.
2. Choose ONE AP model.
3. Make sure to implement the 5Ghz band for all AP's so we have complete coverage.
4. Choose ONE power level for each band. This will affect the coverage and placement of AP's. I'd imagine that we'd need to survey with A first, and then survey with b/g. Typically we can use the 1242 and get about the same cell size on both bands, but 5Ghz is a higher frequency and may not penetrate as much as 2.4 Ghz..
5. Come up with a new coverage map based on a manual site survey with the phones mentioned above.
6. Implement the design.
7. Use it.
8. Try not to have a heart attack when the system actually supports that many phones in that area...
So, please, let me know your thoughts and if you have any suggestions. It would be greatly appreciated. We've been slowly working out the gremlins in the phones there over the past few years. I'm more of a data wireless person myself, but I do have good luck with a low to moderate phone count (usually no more than 7 calls per AP). Once we start doing craziness like trying to get 20-30 802.11B phones to work in the same area on only one or two AP's, then things start to become a challenge, especially when we don't have the 5Ghz cells to help with the bandwidth requirements for voice....
Thank you for your time,
Craig

There's a pretty recent (last few months) Voice over Wlan design guide published (was published for the 9971 phones - but all great advice) and it recommends just about all the settings required for an off the shelf wireless voice network.
http://www.ciscosystems.com/en/US/docs/voice_ip_comm/cuipph/9971_9951_8961/7_1_3/english/deployment/guide/9971dply.pdf

Need help with new Time Capsule/Airport express setup!

I just hooked up a 500g time capsule to replace an airport extreme, and now my airport utility on my MacbookPro Retina no longer recognizes the airport expresses I had on my network for airplay purposes. Can anyone help with this issue?

Instead of a switch you need a wireless router, because your modem will only assign one public ip address to the switch and that ip address will be forwarded to any one computer at a given time...You should replace the switch with a wireless router and it should resolve your concern...

Need some URGENT help with 3 DVD mastering issues PLEASE! :

Hi there,
Firstly, I am running DVD SP 3.0.2 on Mac OS 10.4.7 on a G5 Dual 2 GHz 3Gb Ram plenty of HD space...
I am creating a DVD with: An intro sequence, a main menu, 4 sub menus, and 4 sections with around 12 chapters each.
I am having some big problems, and a pretty stuck. I will lest them separately below, numbered. If you are able to help, please refer clearly to which number you are helping with. Any help is MUCH appreciated! Many thanks!!
1. Each of the 5 menus (1 main, 4 sub) have a background video, and a separate audio track. I added the background videos by simply dragging them to the assests panel, then from there onto the menu editor window. They are created in FCP and are properly encoded. However, when I click the motion button, or use the simulator, the videos do not show up. The music plays, but all i see is plain black.
What is going on?!?!?!
2. I am really struggling with rollover buttons. I have custom created buttons, and I wand them to have a soft red glow around them when hovered over. HOW ON EARTH DO I ACTUALLY DO THIS??
The buttons are in photoshop so can be exported with/without background/glow in any format.
3. Is it possible, once I have got the above rollover working, to have an image to the right hand side of my buttons which changes with the the button rollover. i.e. hover over button 1, see image 1. hover over button 2, image changes to image 2.
PLEASE PLEASE give any help you can, I have a deadline coming up and am quite stumped. Thanks again!!

I am still having problems regarding issue Number 1. PLEASE ANYONE HELP?!
Sorry, I'm not sure about the motion menus. I avoid those whenever possible. But you might click on the menu in the storyline tab (whatever it's called -- the hierarchical view with the disc, tracks, slideshows, etc.) and look at the properties and see if there's anything you have to enable specifically for motion. And be sure the motion button is on on the main display/preview area, but it sounds like you already know how that works.
For your information, here is a screen grab of the menu I am trying to create:
http://www.redhavoc.co.uk/stuff/menu.jpg
I think it is obvious that when a button is hovered over, I want it to glow red, and the image to the right will change to match the respective button.
IS THIS GOING TO BE POSSIBLE????
Yes.
First, your menus have to be layered menus. Unfortunately, there's no way to convert non-layered menus to layered menus, so if you already have non-layered, you'll have to just delete them and create new layered menus. The button (and menu item) to create a layered menu should be right by the normal new-menu item.
Next, the graphical work is all in Photoshop.
Side tip: You may already know this, but I found it's best to use 640x480 for the Photoshop document. When I do text and leave it as a text object in the Photoshop file, it resizes poorly in DVDSP. So this ends up being another 720x480 vs. 640x480 square/rectangular pixel conversion thing. DVDSP plays in the 640x480 world, at least as far as the designer can see. So I keep my images at 640x480, and it doesn't have to resize, and everything looks right.
Moving on... Set up your basic background, the part that won't change (or will have other things covering it, like for your square image).
Then put in all the buttons and images you'll be using, each part in a separate layer. This could have fifteen buttons (you have five buttons, and there can be three versions for each -- inactive, selected, and activated versions) and five or six square images (you said one for each button, and you might want a blank default if, say, you want to add a "back" button on the menu and want some blank or default image for the square when they're on the "back" button).
Sometimes people don't bother with a separate "active" button state, but you usually want some visual feedback that they clicked the button. Also, I usually just build the default (unselected) button into the background; that's less hassle later on, and it will just draw the selected or activated buttons over that when the user is on that button.
Line up all your buttons and images. All the square images lined up perfectly on top of each other, all the buttons in the right places (so you'll have three buttons stacked on top of each other in each spot). Give each layer a short but quickly recognizable name, and line them up in a consistent order. (button1-default, button1-selected, button1-active, button1-squarepicture, then button2-default, ... etc.) Photoshop and DVDSP don't care, but it makes it easier for you later.
Note that earlier versions of DVDSP won't show Photoshop layer effects. (They handle layers, just not the effects, like inner glow, outer bezel, etc.) I don't remember when they changed this, but I think it was version 4.something. So if you're using that method to make your buttons glow, you may have to flatten each selected or active button layer, and you may even need to create a dummy blank layer underneath it first to give it something to flatten onto.
Save the file as a standard Photoshop file (.psd). Drag the file onto your DVDSP layered menu and set it as the background.
Now, in DVDSP, create all your buttons. Just drag boxes over/around the button pictures you have. Feel free to make them extra-big; users won't see the actual area you've selected, and bigger areas makes it easier for people to hit them if they're using a mouse on a computer to watch the DVD. You can point the buttons to their targets now if you want, and set the end jumps on the tracks if you want. (I tend to set the end jumps on the tracks so they automatically select the button for the next track.)
Now's the fun part, since it will actually hook everything up and should be easy if your naming layer order were consistent. Click on the layered menu (in that hierarchical view) and look at the properties window. (Sorry I can't remember the technical names for all these windows; I'm doing this all from memory. So feel free to ask more questions if you can't find what I'm talking about.) One of the properties tabs should have a grid of checkboxes with a list of your layers. Make sure the background is checked for all of the states. Then check the layers you want to show for each button state, as well as the corresponding square image to show for each.
Again, I'm doing this from memory, and I can't remember exactly how things are listed in that grid. But I remember it keeps your layers in the same order you put them in the Photoshop file and shows you those names, so it should make it easy to go down the list and check the right boxes.
And another side tip: You can update the Photoshop file, but once you've put it in DVDSP, if you change the layer order, it will screw up the check boxes you checked. It always shows you the layer names correctly, but it keeps the checkboxes in DVDSP simply assigned to the layer number, so the fifth layer will keep the same checkboxes even if you juggle them so some other layer is now the fifth layer. So if you do juggle the layers in Photoshop, go back and fix the checkbox list in DVDSP.
I put a sample Photoshop file based on yours in
http://dan.black.org/layered-menu-sample.psd
It's quick and dirty, but shows the layer layout, and you should be able to drop it on DVDSP to play with. (I also won't leave it there forever, maybe a few weeks, so anybody reading this in a month or more probably will get a 404 for that url.)
Again, doing this from memory, so feel free to ask if anything doesn't work or doesn't make sense.
G4/dual867 Mac OS X (10.4.5) 2GB/0.8TB

Help with hooking up equipment

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