Help with router for new imac???!!!!!

I just bumped my cable internet speed up to the max I can get. I did a speed test with and without my router hooked up and my old Linksys router is really slowing it down. I have a Linksys Wireless-G router with speed booster.
My question is, Are there routers that are a lot faster??? And what one should I get to be compatible with my Imac. My Linksys one was a pain in the butt to hook up b/c Linksys does not have support for a Mac. Also, don't the setup discs they all come with only work on PCs????
Help please !!!
Thank you.

The current 802.1N specification is significantly faster than your G and has better robustness and range besides. Except for Apple's Airport basestations, all routers are configured via web-browser. In fact, just last week I set up a base for a colleague (don't remember offhand what brand) and all the so-called installation disk had on it was Adobe Acrobat and PDF files of the printed Quick Start Guide and manual that came in box.
It really isn't that big a deal setting up a new basestation but if you really want ease of operation, you can't beat Apple's Airport = and I'm looking forward to getting my hands on a TimeCapsule.

Similar Messages

Help with start up. new iMac 27" with Marericks installed has been giving me trouble with IDs and passwords. More than one account downloaded from older Laptop. Now the computer has the turning wheel in from of gray screen and won't go any further when

I recently started using my desktop iMac 27" and have been having problems since installing Mavericks, not saying that Mavericks is the problem per se. I think I have too many accounts with too many names, with too many Apple IDs and too many passwords, email passwords and Apple ID passwords, and keychain passwords, etc. Can't keep them straight even though I write everything down. The screen has been making me log in and log out with Account name and passwords after everything I've been doing, also confused about Users and Groups and how to sync everything. I finally just "shut down" everything and the screen was black. When I turned the computer on again, the circular gear in the middle just kept turning but nothing happened after that. Then I held the on button in the back until the screen went black again.
What should I do? Is there a way to combine all my accounts into one account with one Apple ID? I should say that I also have trying to use iCloud and it has different IDs and passwords. Also when I try to log in with one account name, I can't enter anything I write,and when I type on the keyboard, nothing appears on the screen, although I can receive emails, I can't send them.
In another account, what I type does appear on the screen, but I think it's an earlier account and doesn't translate aver to the other account. ALTHOUGH i set up iCloud accounts, they don't appear any more.
Very confused. Any Ideas about how I can get the computer to start up again and show a new screen?
Thanks to anyone who has workable suggestions.

If you really believe that your system has been compromised, here's what you do:
Disconnect your Mac from your cable modem;
Back up any documents on your system that are important to you;
Boot your Mac from the system installation disks that came with it (insert the disk, restart your Mac, and hold down the "c" key until you get the "spinning gear" icon);
Choose a language and click the arrow button to continue;
From the Utilities menu, choose Disk Utility;
In Disk Utility, select your computer's hard drive;
Click the "Erase" tab;
Click the "Security Options" button and select to have it overwrite all the data on the hard drive;
Click the "Erase" button and allow it to process;
Once the "erase process has completed (it will take a while), reinstall Mac OS X.
Or, if this is too much for you to accomplish on your own, take your system to an Apple Store and have them help you perform these steps. If your system was indeed compromised, this will remove any such hack. You can then set up a new user account for the computer, reinstall your applications (reinstall only from original disks or downloads from the company making the software) and documents, and reconnect to the Internet.
Note that when you reconnect to the cable modem, you may still get an IP address starting with 198. This is normal with some cable modems and probably not a cause for concern. It will not be an indication that your system is still compromised; that will not be possible if you perform all the above steps.
Regards.

Need help with accessories for new 4th Generation Nano-speakers, etc

I just purchased the new 16GB 4th generation nano and I want accessories to play with it but am concerned with compatibility and charing issues. I am new to this so my questions may not make sense!
1. I am looking for speakers and the Logitech Anywhere Speakers have good reviews. Will I be able to play my Nano with these and charge it? If not, what ones will that are reasonably priced?
2. What accessory can I use to play my nano in my car (older model) that will also charge it? Or are there no accessories for this as of yet.
3. If I want to plug it into a stereo, I only need the mini/RCA cable converter, correct?
4. To plug into the wall, I need the USB adapter-but do I need a dock as well?
Thank you and sorry for such simple questions! This is my first iPod! :-D

2. If you have a cassette adaptor with the 3.5mm audio plug and want to also charge your iPod. You can plug it into a Griffin AutoPilot.
http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/autopilot
For the car with no tape or aux you need an FM transmitter, if your in a city with a lot of stations you will get interferance (I was glad to dump mine when I got a new car). Most are 12 volt! The Griffin iTrip has 5 volt charge and works with the iPod Nano 4th Gen.
http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/itripautopilot
Griffin seems to be one of the few companies that switched to 5 volt charging some time ago.
3. A line out cable is something like this...
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-35507-Connector-Cable/dp/B000JG3WBY/ref=sr111?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1221776257&sr=1-11
Better then using the headphone jack to hook up to a stereo.
4. For the dock a 3.5mm to RCA cable should be all you need to get line out to your stereo.

Help with plan for new system

I was hoping to get a little expert advice on the system that I am planning on building. I was looking at picking up the "MSI Z68A-GD80 (B3)" motherboard, along with an Intel 510 SSD 120 gb drive. I am planning on partitioning the SSD into two drives, one for the max 64 gb ISRT cache, and the other with the rest of the space for the win7 prof 64 bit OS drive.
So my question is if the splitting of the SSD is possible like I mentioned?
and next, what should I pick for a data/app drive? I am not sure whether to go with my usual 2 drive raid-0 setup, or simply get one drive since I will be using ISRT. Any suggestions?
Another note, after I read about booting from USB devices, I plan on skipping the floppy drive
Thank you for any input.

Booting of USB device can be set as a priority in BIOS.
SSD is like any HDD, just do the partitioning during setup.
RAID wise, it is up to your preference. Speed or Mirroring or Balance?

Can anyone help with associate my new iPhone with iTunes? My other old devices are there, but I see only how to delete one, not how to add one. Thank you.

Can anyone help with associate my new iPhone with iTunes? My other old devices are there, but I see only how to delete one, not how to add one. Thank you.

iTunes Match is a subscription system that allows you to upload your own music (e.g. coped from CDs) to the cloud so that it shows (in the cloud) on your devices and computers without having to sync/copy it.
Automatic downloads allows to, for example, buy an app on your computer's iTunes and have it automatically download on your phone without having to connect and sync it or go to the Purchased tab in the App Store app on your download and download it yourself - but doing that, going to the Purchased tab and redownloading an app, should get it associated.
But no, I'm not aware of any problems that not having it associated causes.

Help with updates for CS6

I need help installing latest updates for CS6. I have Win 7 and have tried updating from the Help - Updates menu. The error is: U43M1D207.

Thanks for your response. I am in the United States in So. Arizona.
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 12:21:45 -0600
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Help with updates for CS6
Re: Help with updates for CS6 created by Jeff A Wright in Downloading, Installing, Setting Up - View the full discussion
Crunkle1 you are welcome to work directly with our support team for guided assistance. If you go to http://www.adobe.com/ and select Help and Contact Us you should be given the option to contact our support team via telephone. Which country/region are you in?
Please note that the Adobe Forums do not accept email attachments. If you want to embed a screen image in your message please visit the thread in the forum to embed the image at http://forums.adobe.com/message/4752605#4752605
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How much RAM should I install for new iMAC ?

Hi,
How much RAM should I install for new iMAC* running Logic Studio? It comes with 4 GB - is that enough? (can you run in 64 bit mode..)
*(The 21.5" 3.06GHz Intel Core 2 Duo)
Also, I was planning to get the stock 1 TB Hard Drive & save projects to an external drive.
Does that sound reasonable?
Any other recommendations?
Thanks,
Wm Heart

Unless you plan on running huge projects with enormous sampled instruments, 4 GB will do (very) fine. And your disk plan is sound. Choose an external Firewire drive, rather than USB. FW is easier on the CPU and can handle more tracks than USB.
What you should get, instead of more memory, is a (24 bit) external audio interface, if you want to do serious recording and playback.
What type of audio interface you'ld need, depends on what you want to do with it and of course your budget. From decent to brilliant costs from roughly 100 to several 1,000's of europounddollars. Avoid the 16 bit ones, they're worse than the inbuilt audio chip of your iMac. You can recognize 16 bit Audio Interfaces (in webshops) by their prize (often under 100€£$) and the lack of mention of their bitrate.
HTH
Regards, Erik.

What is the best wireless router for my imac G4

i need a wireless router for my imac g4. Which one do you recommend? All all wireless routers capatible with macs?

As Donald mentions, the routers are all compatible with Macs, but the software CD that they include often has Windows specific software on them that is really just a front-end for configuring the router for use. It does nothing that you cannot do yourself manually by accessing the router through the IP address that gets you into the router settings.
If it sounds difficult, it certainly is not. Once you are in - and that is simple - the router's info is in a nice graphical interface that is simple to use.
I use a Netgear WGR614 for my mixed Mac-PC network at it works like a charm. I got it at Best Buy for $39.99.

HOW DO YOU GUYS DEAL WITH APPLE.. SO CONFUSING...NEED HELP WITH SPECS FOR PURCHASE OF IMAC 21.5

Hi guys, been reading your forums, blogposts, etc and am getting more confused. I'm just a video girl trying to produce meaningful content through web videos for small to mid sized businesses and want to come over from the dark side.
Good news,, I dont need a super giant system, I do simple editing for web videos, minimal graphics, no motion graphics, no animation etc. currently using CS4, will probably end up with 5.5.
I want to get imac 21.5 or 27 if i have to.. So here's the question we all have,,, what do I really need besides an Apple fairy godmother to figure this crazy stuff out?????
I want to be able to have firewire add on, but the rest is what I need help with. So i've been looking at cs6 specs, even though im not there yet, eventually will be,, so just need to run cs4 now and build from there. I also want to eventually move to final cut down the road so I want imac able to upgrade to final cut.
WHAT DO I REALLY NEED MINIMALLY FOR NOW? WHAT CAN I GET LATER IF i CHOOSE TO DO MORE AND NEED MORE POWER?
cs6:
Multicore Intel processor with 64-bit support
Mac OS X v10.6.8, v10.7, or v10.8**
4GB of RAM (8GB recommended)
4GB of available hard-disk space for installation; additional free space required during installation (cannot install on a volume that uses a case-sensitive file system or on removable flash storage devices)
Additional disk space required for preview files and other working files (10GB recommended)
1280x900 display
7200 RPM hard drive (multiple fast disk drives, preferably RAID 0 configured, recommended)
OpenGL 2.0–capable system
DVD-ROM drive compatible with dual-layer DVDs (SuperDrive for burning DVDs; Blu-ray burner for creating Blu-ray Disc media)
QuickTime 7.6.6 software required for QuickTime features
Optional: Adobe-certified GPU card for GPU-accelerated performance
Any responses would be great. I know you guys are busy answering the really high end tech questions

All the current iMac models (both 21.5" and 27" with OS X Mt. Lion 10.8) will run CS4, 5.5 and 6 just fine. They will also run Final Cut Pro X just fine. Ditto for most any application you may want to use.
Below are some notes (specific to your apparent requirements) that may help you with your purchase decision:
Notes on purchasing a 21.5" iMac
All 21.5" iMacs come with 8GB RAM but you cannot add more later. I strongly suggest getting the maximum RAM (16GB) when you order the iMac.
The basic hard drive is a 1TB 5400rpm drive. It will work fine with Adobe CS but you will probably want the added speed of the optional 1TB Fusion drive for better performance. Some people will recommend/argue for one of the optional SSD drives instead, but they are very expensive and still only come in relatively small capacities - I don't recommend the SSD drives. Get the Fusion drive and spend any extra money on a good external hard drive for backup and/or extra storage instead of an SSD.
Notes on purchasing a 27" iMac
All 27" iMacs come with 8GB RAM and you can add more later, up to 32GB
The basic hard drive is a 1TB 7200rpm drive - it will be fine with Adobe CS. There are upgrade options to a 3TB 7200rpm drive or a 1TB or 3TB fusion drive - these will be fine also. There are also SSD drive options, but I do not recommend them. (Same comments as above.)
Notes on all the current iMacs
iMacs no longer come with built-in CD/DVD drives. If you need one, you will need to purchase the Apple Superdrive accessory drive ($79)
All of the iMac graphic processors (GPU's) are compatible with Adobe CS 4, 5.5, 6
It is very difficult to impossible to change or upgrade the hard drive later on, so don't buy low-end thinking you can add a better internal hard drive later.
Be aware that Macs always come with the latest (most recent) version of OS X. And OS X Mavericks (10.9) is due to be released soon (in the next month or two). There is no guarantee that the older Adobe CS 4 or 5.5 versions will run on OS X Mavericks. If you cannot upgrade to CS 6 in the near future, you may want to purchase now rather than after OS X Mavericks is released.
For what it's worth, I'd recommend the 27" iMac if your budget can afford it. You will appreciate the larger screen size and added capabilities over the years you will use the computer.

Best (affordable) Router for new Mac G5

What would be the best Router for my new Mac G5?
I currently have a DLINK router, which just won't cooperate so I am running straight out of the cable modem.
DLINK help says they don't support the latest OS version, so I decided to try another router so I can make use of my laptop (wireless) and Mac (not wireless) again.
Any thoughts? Plug and Play would be nice.

Hi Ryan, welcome to Discussions, all routers follow an industry standard and should would with your Imac. I would look on D-link's website for a firmware update (caution USA and Canada for sure have different firmware and loading wrong firmware could kill your router and it is not covered by warrentee) Make sure you have all the latest updates for Imac, there was one not to long ago that did infact make Imac "play nicer" with competitive routers. I know my D-link DI-624 didn't always "play nice" with my Imac but seems to be working wonderfully lately (knock on wood) Give that a try and if that doesn't work then Netgear and Linksys make good products too. Good luck, Bob :~))
I currently have a DLINK router, which just won't cooperate
also what exactly is or isn't happening, do you have encryption or MAC filtering or anything configuired?

Is something worng with my brand new iMac?

Ok so let me try to explain this. When connecting to the internet it seems like my mac works better wireless than it does hardwired which dosnet make sense. When its wired i have problems loading pages and and its slower. Wireless its perfect.. I also did a speed test and wireless came back at 21.06 and wired was 11.45. I think something is wrong with my mac ethernet port because of this. Now is this normal for a mac to work better wireless than wired??? I have a linksys router wrt160n if that helps. I like it wireless because of less clutter so i dont mind that, but i just want to make sure i dont have to bring my mac in for repair. Oh its also the new imac 2.93ghz

It should definitely work better hardwired. Check out the following points. They're all I can think of at the moment:
1. Have you tried hard-wiring from the mac to the router (not to the modem)? There may be some settings issues between the mac and modem.
2. Are you sure you're using your wireless network when wireless? Maybe you're using someone else's internet which has a better router/etc.
3. Turn off airport when you're wired.
4. Your Ethernet network settings may be messed up. Go to the network system preference, make a new location, (which resets all of your network settings for that location) apply and try again.
5. In the network system preference, make sure Ethernet is at the top. Your computer always attempts to use those higher in the list first.
6. Try a different ethernet cable.
7. Take a look at the ethernet ports on your mac and whatever else you plug it into. Make sure the pins aren't bent/corroded/etc.
8. Take your imac to a different location and try internet wired. If it's slow there too, there's an issue with your system which is likely software related (reinstall mac os), but may be hardware related (take the mac back and get a replacement).

¿I need antivirus for new iMac (2012)?

It's my first Mac. I want to say if antivirus is necessary in the 2012 new iMac (21'5 ").
If I need one, tell me about the best antivirus and where I download it, please.
Thanx!

This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an attacker who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files. The recognition database is automatically updated once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders. In most cases, there’s no benefit from any other automated protection against malware. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Note, however, that there are some caveats concerning Gatekeeper:
It can be disabled or overridden by the user.
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article. That being said, the best defense against malware is your own intelligence. All known malware on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. If you're smarter than the malware attacker thinks you are, you won't be duped. That means, primarily, that you never install software from an untrustworthy source. How do you know a source is untrustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn users who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
“Cracked” copies of commercial software downloaded from a bittorrent are likely to be infected.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. No intermediary is acceptable.
Java on the network (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related) is a weak point in the security of any operating system. If a Java web plugin is not installed, don't install it unless you really need it. If it is installed, you should disable it (not JavaScript) in your web browsers. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This setting is mandatory in OS X 10.5.8 or earlier, because Java in those obsolete versions has known security flaws that make it unsafe to use on the Internet. The flaws will never be fixed. Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java can never be fully trusted, even if no vulnerabilities are publicly known at the moment.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can reasonably be.
Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability and poor performance.
By modifying the system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. Using it to delete or move email messages can corrupt the Mail database. Such messages must be deleted from within the Mail application. ClamXav is not needed for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. If you don't need to do that, avoid it. Windows malware can't harm you directly. Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, like a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use.

Multiple Issues with iTunes on New iMac

Hello Apple Community,
I recently bought a 27" iMac with 3.1Ghz i5 processor running on Snow Leopard and finally set it up. I have owned many Macs in the past and currently have been using a 5 year old 15" MacBook Pro on Snow Leopard that has been running flawlessly but I needed something with a bit more processing power. When I first took my iMac out of the box I went ahead and used the Migration Assistant to move my applications and files over from my MacBook Pro but after multiple attempts I had to stop and simply move the music, document, and photo data on to a portable hard drive while I got the Migration Assistant to move the applications. I simply moved the old iTunes music folder over to my new iMac and replaced the iTunes folder on my iMac. The new iMac has already been authorized through my iTunes account and the music will play. Now here are my current issues.
When I play a song on iTunes, there appears to be a random amount of fade-in and/or crossfade when I switch playing songs. I have checked the playback preferences and crossfade is not checked. Some songs the crossfade will take a second while sometimes it will be as much as 10 seconds of crossfade. On my MacBook with the identical library and settings, it does not have these issues.
The other issue I have been experiencing is if iTunes has been open and my computer sits for a little while (usually after awaking from sleep or even listening to a few songs without touching the keyboard, the songs will stop playing on their own and when I press the play button, it begins to "play" the track but there is no sound coming from iTunes. I have checked the volume slider in iTunes and it is still at max volume while all other applications still work and output sound. iTunes will only work properly if I close it and re-open it.
The final issue is similar to the last one in that when I try and play previews in the iTunes Music store it will not play but when I hit the play button iTunes will then appear to be "playing" but no sound from either the store or any of my songs from the Library.
iTunes works perfectly fine on my MacBook Pro and it does have any of these issues. Both Macs are currently running iTunes 10.4.1. All songs in each library are checked and will play to a degree.
I have deleted iTunes and all corresponding library files, (basically anything with iTunes in the name) and tried to reinstall iTunes and used multiple methods to replace the music files including using Home Sharing, a portable Hard Drive, and dragging and dropping the music files from the shared folder and no matter what I try, I still cannot get iTunes on my iMac to work properly. I have been searching around the support forums for others who might have had this issue but I cannot seem to find much. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I had not tried that before, but from your suggestion, I went ahead and did it and it seems to have gotten rid of the crossfade issues I was experiencing but whenever I try and listen to a preview in the iTunes music store it still does not appear to be working. Also, I was testing a number of tracks and it seems like there are a few tracks in particular that will make iTunes stop playing when I click on them and then if I attempt to play something else, iTunes says it is playing but no sound is coming from it.
What I have found that is interesting is the first time I ran the Disk Utility it repaired a HUGE number of misc. files. After running it and still experiencing problems I tried to run it again but this time the files were not as numerous and were all within the /Library/CoreServices menu. Each subsequent time I ran the Disk Utility and rebooted, I tried to run the Disk Utility again and the same files seem to still be having the same issues. This is just an example of one of the files I have been having an issue with.
Permissions differ on "System/Library/CoreServices/Menu Extras/RemoteDesktop.menu/Contents/Resources/zh_TW.lproj/RemoteDesktopMenu.nib" , should be drwxr-xr-x , they are -rwxr-xr-x .
Repaired "System/Library/CoreServices/Menu Extras/RemoteDesktop.menu/Contents/Resources/zh_TW.lproj/RemoteDesktopMenu.nib" .
One in particular gave me a Warning and said it could not be repaired. I'm not sure if it is important to repair but I still seem to be having some issues here and there. Here is the message from the Disk Utility regarding the file in question.
Warning: SUID file "System/Library/CoreServices/RemoteManagement/ARDAgent.app/Contents/MacOS/ARDAg ent" has been modified and will not be repaired.

Best Practices for new iMac

I posted a few days ago re failing HDD on mid-2007 iMac. Long story short, took it into Apple store, Genius worked on it for 45 mins before decreeing it in need of new HDD. After considering the expenses of adding memory, new drive, hardware and installation costs, I got a brand new iMac entry level (21.5" screen,
2.7 GHz Intel Core i5, 8 GB 1600 MHz DDR3 memory, 1TB HDD running Mavericks). Also got a Superdrive. I am not needing to migrate anything from the old iMac.
I was surprised that a physical disc for the OS was not included. So I am looking for any Best Practices for setting up this iMac, specifically in the area of backup and recovery. Do I need to make a boot DVD? Would that be in addition to making a Time Machine full backup (using external G-drive)? I have searched this community and the Help topics on Apple Support and have not found any "checklist" of recommended actions. I realize the value of everyone's time, so any feedback is very appreciated.

OS X has not been officially issued on physical media since OS X 10.6 (arguably 10.7 was issued on some USB drives, but this was a non-standard approach for purchasing and installing it).
To reinstall the OS, your system comes with a recovery partition that can be booted to by holding the Command-R keys immediately after hearing the boot chimes sound. This partition boots to the OS X tools window, where you can select options to restore from backup or reinstall the OS. If you choose the option to reinstall, then the OS installation files will be downloaded from Apple's servers.
If for some reason your entire hard drive is damaged and even the recovery partition is not accessible, then your system supports the ability to use Internet Recovery, which is the same thing except instead of accessing the recovery boot drive from your hard drive, the system will download it as a disk image (again from Apple's servers) and then boot from that image.
Both of these options will require you have broadband internet access, as you will ultimately need to download several gigabytes of installation data to proceed with the reinstallation.
There are some options available for creating your own boot and installation DVD or external hard drive, but for most intents and purposes this is not necessary.
The only "checklist" option I would recommend for anyone with a new Mac system, is to get a 1TB external drive (or a drive that is at least as big as your internal boot drive) and set it up as a Time Machine backup. This will ensure you have a fully restorable backup of your entire system, which you can access via the recovery partition for restoring if needed, or for migrating data to a fresh OS installation.

Help! pc to new iMac - HDD not 'seen' on pc... ethernet cable issue too!

Hi all
I just got my new iMac a few days ago and I've tried the ethernet cable and my mac can see the folders on the pc but wont open them! (the original item cannot be found)
my ethernet cable isn't linked to the mac now but I can still see my computer in finder... both have the wireless going.. how do I 'choose' the ethernet cable.. maybe that's why it's not working?
I've now got a western digital Studio edition 500mb external harddrive - I've plugged that into the mac and all is well... I was hoping I could then plug it into the pc and drag all the files over (65gigs) and then I can transfer them to the mac.
I've used the usb cable on the pc (doesn't have firewire) and the pc does nothing!
I can't see it and I've tried clicking on the removable disc drives but it says there's nothing connected.
I know that the HDD is formatted for macs but if I format it for pcs then will I have the issue of transferring the files to the mac after?
I'm totally confused and this is driving me nuts!
the only other option I have left is to burn billions of dvds with my images and music. sob I really don't want to do that!
I would like to be able to sync my ipod and iphone to the mac and not qet my music wiped! and to get my old crappy pc off my desk.
someone heeeeeeellllllpppp please... will be very happy to get this sorted! my poor little old brain is fried!

Thank you!
I literally just got the same info from a friend (he was away for most of the weekend) and I'm now in the process of copying the pc stuff onto the hard drive (after formatting)
transferred one pic and tried transferring it the mac and it worked... YAY!
so now back to transferring everything from the pc to the HDD now... gonna take a while but at least now I'm on the way off getting rid of the pc
Thanks for your help and response.
(very relieved!)

Help with router for new imac???!!!!!

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