Here's my dumb question -

What's the range on these things? I just bought a new iMac 20", airport express, and airtunes...
I have a internet provider called clearwire, which I think I hate, but will use until my conract is up. I connect the two using ethernet.
But, when first booting up, it's great, all 5 bars, then slowly, fades to nothing, because of my being so rural, on the edge of town, the modem is in my porch, and can't be moved around as I won't get signal. So, my iMac is about 50 ft. away, I spoke to a tech, and he said it could be right on the outer edge.
What do you think?
ps, I'm trying to get AT&T DSL which I can then place anywhere!
eastwoodcc

The "tech" is probably correct.
The RF range is affected by (1) RF interference from other RF sources, (2) RF absorption by materials in the path between transmitter and receiver, (3) RF reflection by materials in the path between transmitter and receiver (this can cause weird affects as reflected signals add to or subtract from the original signal).
Also be aware that 5 GHz signals have a much harder time passing through physical obstacles so in general a 5 GHz network is going to have less range than a 2.4 GHz.
The bottom line is that the RF range can only be accurately described in a closely controlled laboratory environment.

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Do the following:
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Using the USB port for an external HD dumb question

OK. Forgive a possibly really dumb question here...
My external HD has a USB 2.0 interface and I hooked it up to the USB port using a cable that came with an old USB 1 hub I'm not using right now.
My dumb question is this: is there such a thing as a USB 2.0 cable? Or are the USB cables all the same?
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I am suspecting now that my HD might really have been a USB 1.0 drive...
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Dumb Question??

I hope the philosophy here is that there is no such thing as a dumb question.
Here goes.
Adobe Classroom in a Book for Premier Pro states that when opening a New Project under the Project tab you have two choices DV or HDV when in actuality the choices in my version of CS4 are HDV and QuickTime. I have been under the impression that QuickTime can be either DV or HDV and with that premise I do not understand what my choices are.
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Different people's brains work differently. I am convinced that right
brain/left brain only scratches the surface. What is patently obvious
to one is shrouded in mystery to another.
(And then there's the issue of *my *brain. I've killed so many of its
cells over my 33+ years of adulthood that nothing is obvious anymore.)
People also make mistakes. And I mean everybody.
-Jeff

Dumb Question: Is there a way to snap to grids in Adobe line?

While I'm able to snap to bumpers of objects drawn, this behavior doesn't appear to translate to grids. Is there an additional setting that has to be turned on in order to snap to grids on the canvas? I'm sorry if this is a dumb question, and thanks in advance.

Same question here..

This maybe a really dumb question...

I know this maybe a really dumb question but I do need to ask:
-Do I need to buy a new vista to install on my new mac?
(I have a start up one that was included with my previous pc laptop..)
-In terms of partitioning, how should I distribute space?
Thank you in advance.

jlee636:
The Boot Camp installation guide is [HERE|http://www.apple.com/support/bootcamp>. It should be able to answer questions related to installation. Of course these discussions have several other information on boot camp/ windows. All you need to do is launch a search on them.
-In terms of partitioning, how should I distribute space?
Too many people make a partition very small and then regret having done so. My recommendation is to have a partition of at least 32GB. It is highly dependent on what your will be installing on Windows XP/Vista.
-Do I need to buy a new vista to install on my new mac?(I have a start up one that was included with my previous pc laptop..)
It is more than likely that the Windows disk that came with your previous PC/Laptop is an OEM disk and will only work properly with that particular PC. This is generally the case with Dell, HP, Sony etc. The installation disk in the cases above are usually branded.
For more information on which Windows version(s) work with Boot Camp then please click [HERE|http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.5/en/11889.html].
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Okay, a dumb question, but need to know -

do I need to buy protection software like Norton or Malware Bytes for my mac? I thought Mac's don't get hacked.

No.
It's not a dumb question at all. Most people come to this site after they mess up their Mac. Don't install that junk, and you won't be coming here when you need to fix the problems it causes.
There will always be threats to your information security associated with using any Internet - connected communications tool:
You can mitigate those threats by following commonsense practices
Delegating that responsibility to software is an ineffective defense
Assuming that any product will protect you from those threats is a hazardous attitude that is likely to result in neglecting point #1 above.
OS X already includes everything it needs to protect itself from viruses and malware. Keep it that way with software updates from Apple.
A much better question is "how should I protect my Mac":
Never install any product that claims to "clean up", "speed up", "optimize", "boost" or "accelerate" your Mac; to "wash" it, "tune" it, or to make it "shiny". Those claims are absurd.Such products are very aggressively marketed. They are all scams.
Never install pirated or "cracked" software, software obtained from dubious websites, or other questionable sources.
Illegally obtained software is almost certain to contain malware.
"Questionable sources" include but are not limited to spontaneously appearing web pages or popups, download hosting sites such as C net dot com, Softonic dot com, Soft pedia dot com, Download dot com, Mac Update dot com, or any other site whose revenue is primarily derived from junk product advertisements.
If you need to install software that isn't available from the Mac App Store, obtain it only from legitimate sources authorized by the software's developer.
Don’t supply your password in response to a popup window requesting it, unless you know what it is and the reason your credentials are required.
Don’t open email attachments from email addresses that you do not recognize, or click links contained in an email:
Most of these are scams that direct you to fraudulent sites that attempt to convince you to disclose personal information.
Such "phishing" attempts are the 21st century equivalent of a social exploit that has existed since the dawn of civilization. Don’t fall for it.
Apple will never ask you to reveal personal information in an email. If you receive an unexpected email from Apple saying your account will be closed unless you take immediate action, just ignore it. If your iCloud, iTunes, or App Store account becomes disabled for valid reasons, you will know when you try to buy something or log in to this support site, and are unable to.
Don’t install browser extensions unless you understand their purpose:Go to the Safari menu > Preferences > Extensions. If you see any extensions that you do not recognize or understand, simply click the Uninstall button and they will be gone.
Don’t install Java unless you are certain that you need it:
Java, a non-Apple product, is a potential vector for malware. If you are required to use Java, be mindful of that possibility.
Java can be disabled in System Preferences.
Despite its name JavaScript is unrelated to Java. No malware can infect your Mac through JavaScript. It’s OK to leave it enabled.
The same precaution applies to Adobe Flash Player. Newly discovered Flash vulnerabilities appear almost weekly.
Beware spontaneous popups: Safari menu > Preferences > Security > check "Block popup windows".
Popup windows are useful and required for some websites, but unsolicited popups are commonly used to deceive people into installing unwanted software they would never intentionally install.
Popups themselves cannot infect your Mac, but many contain resource-hungry code that will slow down Internet browsing.
If you ever receive a popup window indicating that your Mac is infected with some ick or that you won some prize, it is 100% fraudulent. Ignore it.
The same goes for a spontaneously appearing dialog insisting that you upgrade your video player right this instant. Such popups are frequently associated with sites that promise to deliver "free" movies or other copyrighted content that is not normally "free".
The more insistent it is that you upgrade or install something, the more likely it is to be a scam. Close the window or tab and forget it.
Ignore hyperventilating popular media outlets that thrive by promoting fear and discord with entertainment products arrogantly presented as "news". Learn what real threats actually exist and how to arm yourself against them:
The most serious threat to your data security is phishing. Most of these attempts are pathetic and are easily recognized, but that hasn't stopped prominent public figures from recently succumbing to this age-old scam.
OS X viruses do not exist, but intentionally malicious or poorly written code, created by either nefarious or inept individuals, is nothing new.
Never install something without first knowing what it is, what it does, how it works, and how to get rid of it when you don’t want it any more.
If you elect to use "anti-virus" software, familiarize yourself with its limitations and potential to cause adverse effects, and apply the principle immediately preceding this one.
Most such utilities will only slow down and destabilize your Mac while they look for viruses that do not exist, conveying no benefit whatsoever - other than to make you "feel good" about security, when you should actually be exercising sound judgment, derived from accurate knowledge, based on verifiable facts.
Do install updates from Apple as they become available. No one knows more about Macs and how to protect them than the company that builds them.
Summary: Use common sense and caution when you use your Mac, just like you would in any social context. There is no product, utility, or magic talisman that can protect you from all the evils of mankind.

Reeeeeeally dumb question

Total computer-building newbie here. Had a nice guy at the local Fry's help me pick out the parts of a new system, including my swanky K8N mobo.
So, I've got me my mobo, my tower, couple of hard drives, internal modem, couple of CD/DVD drives, video card, 1394/firewire thingie card. And thanks to earlier help from kind people here, I actually managed to get all this stuff assembled, installed WinXP -- in short, I'm up and running.
Except I just discovered that I apparently don't have sound.
SUPER dumb question: Do I need a sound card? Or should what I have give me sound? And if yes to that, which of the three audio plugs do I plug my speakers into?
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The firewire card is leftover from my old machine. I've got two different iPod docks (15GB and 40GB) to plug in, so I do use it.
As for which mobo I have, here's what the manual has on the front: NVIDIA nForce 3 250Gb Chipset Based, K8N Neo Series. I think there's a regular and a Platinum version of this and I think I've got the regular, because I don't have the various optional items shown in the manual (e.g. I have two SATA connections, not four).
I just went into the BIOS set-up screen and I didn't notice anything related to sound. Where should I be looking?
Now, you said I should make sure I've loaded the driver software for my mobo. The last week of computer assembly and software installations has left the old noggin' a bit muddled. I would assume if I've gotten as far as I have (WinXP w/ SP2 and Office installed) that somewhere along the way I would have done this. Wouldn't I have? If not, do I download them from the MSI site? Should they be on a disk I got?
And if I can re-ask that other question from my original post: How do I know which BIOS I have and that it's updated. In the BIOS set-up, it said this: Phoenix-Award BIOS, W7030NMS V1.3 072804 13:15:30.

Two dumba$$ questions

Sorry, I know these are two really stupid questions, but I know nothing at all. I've just bought a new iBook after ahving a really ancient Mac. Both my questions are to do with Garageband...so here goes...
Question 1
What other equipment do I need to be able to record real instruments (string quartet)?
Question 2
I was just having some fun the other night, making up some stuff and trying to familiarize myself with the whole Garageband thing (which I love already).
As I was adding loops I had the sneaking suspicion that some where starting to go missing - why was there an 'Acoustic Noodling' numbers 2, 3, 4 etc but no number 1? Where were 'Asian Gamelan' 3 and 4?
Chose not to save anything I'd done so far and after did a quick search in the Garageband loops search bit, but nothing came up. Went through the installation disk thinking it would put back anything that had gone missing. Still nothing. Did a spotlight search and a few of the items I thought had gone missing were in iTunes.
Maybe they were never in the Garageband loops samples first place? Is this possible? Is there somewhere that lists what loops come with Garageband? I'm starting to doubt my own sanity, especially since I went through the installation disk...
I now have the following samples on my desktop - ones which I thought had gone AWOL:
Acoustic Noodling 1; Asian Gamelan 3 and 4;
Middle Eastern Oud 3 and 4.
I have tried to drag them into the Garageband loops section, but they seem to disappear into the iTunes...I have no idea what's going on...
Apologies in advance for these dumb questions.

For what you need to do your string quartet recording, read HangTime's FAQ to get started:
http://www.thehangtime.com/gb/gbfaq2.html
Contrary to what you might think, you probably don't want to record the four members of the quartet separately on their own tracks, each with a mic close to the instrument. String quartets need to play all the parts together at once, to get the best feel and performance.
You'll probably want to put up a pair of mikes arranged in a stereo pattern, at some distance from the string quartet (a couple of meters at least), in a nice live-sounding room. Mike placement techniques are hard to describe in this kind of forum, but you can find textbooks on the subject with diagrams.
You'll need a matched pair of better-than-average-quality condenser microphones, and an audio-to-computer interface with better-than-average preamps.

Probably a really dumb question...but so am I

Just bought a brand new iMac (specs below). Old one? Panther (3.10.9), 1 GHz, 2 RAM, 80 GB space)
Keeping the old iMac. A perfectly good machine. Only reason I bought a new one: kind of maxed out regarding my primary use of a computer...home music recording. Just needed more space, power, speed, etc.
Question: Before I call the phone company (our ISP: ATT), want your advice.
Can I just hook up two computers (both iMacs, one old, one new), on the same telephone line (a land line...this would be the only phone line coming into the house), and have them work? Or, would the ISP, the telephone company, charge us more for doing this? Meaning operating two computers on the same line simultaneously. (Forget about wireless here. Don't use it, not sure that I will anytime soon.)
Why couldn't I just plug in the other computer into a phone jack in another room in the house and have it work while the other one, in another room but using the same phone line, is running at the same time? Both simultaneously. (Sure, I'd need a modem for each machine going into the ethernet port.)
As I said, possibly a dumb question. On the other hand, I'm pretty dumb too.
Thoughts, advice, suggestions? Greatly appreciated.

It's probably connecting to a broadband modem (DSL or ADSL). That device allows you to get the high speed internet going on using the same phone jack in your house, and connects to the computer through an ethernet cable.
"Old school" or dial-up modems are traditionally built into the computer or plug into a USB port, and then use a normal phone cord (same thing other phones in the house use). Aside from being super slow, your line is usually busy and you're unable to make/receive calls when you're online.
I'm guessing you're connecting to a broadband modem (since you mentioned ethernet cable). With that in mind, the answer is yes, you can hook both those computers up so they can be online at the same time. What you need is what's called a router or switch, and they're not very expensive. One line connects to your broadband modem, then you have 3-4 jacks that you can plug additional computers in (so they can all use the connection at once).
If you want to have the machines in different rooms but don't want to run wires everywhere, look for a wi-fi router, which will usually give you a few jacks for connecting computers that don't have wi-fi but will also let you do a wireless internet hookup for your new iMac, the old one (if it has wi-fi), and even iPhones if you have 'em.
Apple has two products that might work for you. The Airport Extreme Base Station has super-fast wifi plus jacks for plugging computers in via ethernet, and even lets you share a printer. http://www.apple.com/airportextreme/ The Time Capsule does all that, and also has a built in hard drive (you can get with a 1TB or 2TB hard drive), which is great for using Time Machine. We've had a Time Capsule since they first came out and love it - super easy to set up, and all the backup stuff just happens without having to worry about it.
Hope that helps!

Might be a dumb question, but I am moving from 1st gen to iPadair; on Safari, 1st gen to delete apps/sites just visited, you could double tap home key and apps would appear on bottom and one could delete from there. How does it work on ipadair?

This may be a dumb question, but nonetheless, here goes:
I just moved from 1st gen ipad to new ipad-air. Great and happy! But, one thing I can't figure out how to do is to delete the pages/sites/apps that I have just used? For example, on the 1st gen. you could double-tap home button and past actions would come up on bottom of screen. I could then delete them one by one, to keep things cleaned up. Am I missing something here? Does it keep a log irregardless? Not the same as deleting history - at least didnt' work for me.

Close apps and not delete apps.
1. Double tap the home button to bring up the multi-tasking view
2. Swipe the app's windows upwards to close
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Maybe a dumb question, about which power connectors to use, but....

This may sound like an incredibly dumb question, but here goes anyway....
I upgraded my system a few weeks ago, and will be slapping in a new ATI X850 Pro AGP card in a few days. My current graphics card is a p.o.s. Radeon 9550, so it doesn't have its own power connector or even a fan. My PSU is a dual-rail Antec model, and I'm wondering if it should matter any about how many or which devices I have connected to each power cable set. My psu came with cables to attach, only 2 of the 4 though are the 4-pin molex - the other 2 are pci-e power connectors I believe. Should it make a difference which or how many devices I connect to each cable? For ease of plugging in, I believe my DVDRW and CDRom are using 1 cable, and my ide drive and floppy are using the other cable. Also, I have a pci fan and a case fan running off 1 or the other. I'm likely to jump the power cable for the video card off the one the hard drive is using, unless someone has some suggestion to offer to the contrary.
If it makes a difference, can anyone recommend how they would have them connect?
My list of devices to plug in would be:
1)IDE HDD
2)Floppy
3)CDRom
4)DVDRW
5)Case Fan
6)PCI Fan
7)Video Card
Thanks for any thoughts! SAB - you seem to be the man on builds.....any ideas?

Well, I put the new card in and connected it on a cable with the optical drives. Also, I had unwittingly connected my cdrom on the same ide channel as my hdd , so I changed that so both optical drives are on the secondary ide.
So far, so good. 3dMark03 jumped up from 3300 with an overclocked Radeon 9550 to 10570 with the stock Radeon 850 Pro
I wish I could find some local source to purchase additional molex cords for my Antec SmartPower 2.0 psu, though - I've got 2 more 'outlets' just sitting there on the psu doing nothing, because the other cables are for pci-e, and I'm not using pci-e...... If I could buy some additional molex cables to plug in like the ones that came with it, I could have the vid card on its own cable....

A dumb question about wifi...

I'm not as 'literate' as some are when it comes to computer technology...but here is the question...If I walk into a place that has wifi and my iphone is set with wifi ON, how will I know if there is a charge for using the wifi? Will my iphone automatically kick into the wifi or will there appear an invitation to pay a fee to connect...and how do you pay and do you have to have a password and if so, how do you get that? I know....dumb question...Thanks.

Not a dumb question at all.
First of all, set your iPhone up like this:
1) Go to Settings on the main screen (looks like gears)
2) Click on "Wi-Fi" (second option from the top)
3) At the bottom of this page (Which should say "Wi-Fi Networks" at the top) turn "Ask to Join Networks" to the "ON" position.
Now when you walk into a place that has Wi-Fi, your iPhone will display a little window that asks you whether you want to join the network or not.
In some places, you may even see a list of more than one Wi-Fi network to join. This is quite common in New York City. The reason is because so many people have Wi-Fi in there apartments, and they all live so close together, that sometime your iPhone can detect multiple networks. The coffee shop near my apartment has their own network, but I can also connect to the Wi-Fi network in my apartment because I only live about 50 feet away.
Anyway, when you see the list of Networks to join, you may notice a little padlock symbol next to some of them. This means these are closed networks that require a password to connect to. (My network is "Closed", ie requires a password so that everyone in the coffee shop next door doesn't use my internet).
Networks that DO NOT have the little lock symbol are "Open" which means you can join them without a password. But there is a catch... A lot of coffee shops have open networks, but as soon as you try to browse the web, they redirect your browser to their own page, no matter what web address you enter. Basically, they are letting you connect to their network without a password, but not letting you browse the internet without giving them some money.
So (as the previous poster said) the page that the coffee shops redirects you to, usually has instructions, and of course a place to put in a credit card. Once you do all that, then you can browse the internet without getting redirected to their little payment page. Its sort of confusing because you don't need a password to connect to their "open" network, but you do need one to browse any web pages. How you get the password differs from coffee shop to coffee shop, but usually they give it to you right inside your web browser once you give them your credit card number.
T-Mobile provides wireless for Starbucks (at least in a lot of places they do). So once you have an account with t-mobile, you can use it in any starbucks or "T-mobile hotspot"
Now this all sounds kind of complicated, but more and more these days, you can just walk into a place, find an open network (one without a lock next to it) and start browsing without being redirected or dealing with credit cards. Basically these places are providing free internet to try to attract customers.
Good luck
P.S. Wi-Fi eats up battery life. If you aren't going to be using it to browse web pages, you can go into settings, then Wi-Fi, and turn Wi-Fi off. This will save you battery life, but you have to remember to turn it back on. Even without Wi-Fi on, you can still browse the internet if you see a little "E" at the top of your screen. The E stands for the AT&Ts Edge network, which isn't as fast as Wi-Fi, but covers pretty much everywhere that your phone can get a signal.
Message was edited by: erik graham

My ipad mail is synced to my iMac mail account. On iPad, I can only see my inbox and sent messages. I can't see any of the folders I have created on my iMac. How do I do that? Probably a dumb question, but I know there's a lot of smart people out there!

My iPad mail is synced to my private email account, which I organise on my iMac. On iPad, I can only see inbox and sent messages folders, not any of the other folders in my email account I have created on my iMac. How do I get iPad to show my other folders? Probably a dumb question, but I know there's a lot of smart people out there.

If you select a mailbox, you should get an Edit button (easier to see in landscape mode). Clicking the button will provide you with check circles for the messages. You also get Delete and Move buttons at the bottom. Check the messages you want to move and then navigate to the mailbox you want to drop them into. I think as long as you can navigate to a mailbox you can move the messages to it.
In the Mac Mail application and probably Outlook on the Windows side, you also setup rules to move messages to specific mailboxes. If the mailboxes are stored on the server, then you can have the sorting done on the server and they should appear that way on the iPad. If your later messages do not show up, you may need to have the iPad app pulled down more messages until they are all showing.

I am looking at buying a MacBook Air over the Pro mainly for the 12 hour battery. Just wondering if battery is compromised by upgrading to 8mb and upgrading to I7 Intel dual core. I am not very tech savvy so apologies if dumb question

I am looking at buying a MacBook Air over the Pro mainly for the 12 hour battery. Just wondering if battery is compromised by upgrading to 8mb and upgrading to I7 Intel dual core. I am not very tech savvy so apologies if dumb question

If both computers were configured identically, then they would both lose the same amount of battery life with respect to the same starting configuration - comparing apple to apples. I don't know how much the added RAM, etc. would reduce battery life, but it would be less for both models.
Battery life is a tricky subject because most mfgr.s like to suggest as long a life as possible, but often do so under a set of conditions that are not common to most users. Apple is no different. Their computers do have good battery life, however. But not likely as long as what is in the ads for the typical user.

Here's my dumb question -

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