Here's what I need... so what should I get?

OK all you experienced mini users, I waited until the intel release, and I'm ready to get my mini... only problem is, now that I've looked at all the options, I don't know which one to buy. So I'm opening it up to you all, hoping that you can advise me a little.
Here's what I want to do with my mini:
1. I don't play games, and I'm not looking to play them in the future.
2. I use mail, safari/firefox, office, iLife, endnote, photoshop (rarely, and nothing too serious), etc.
3. I've got most of my media (mp3s and video) on a large usb2 external drive. So internal HD doesn't have to be huge.
4. I want to minimize the clutter on my desk, so airport is a must.
5. I like the idea of the BT keyboard, but the reviews worry me a bit, and I think I'll end up with a mighty mouse.
6. I'll use the mini for the next two or three years, and then it will become a mp3 server on my home network or perhaps a dedicated web server for my small personal website.
7. I want a superdrive for backup and home movies.
8. I might take advantage of an audio input to burn my LP collection, but this is a very minor concern.
With that in mind, what do you think I should be looking for?
-Dual core?
-Single core upgraded with SD?
-1.42/1.5 PPC?
Right now, I'm sort of leaning towards the single core... for the price, even with the SD upgrade, I'm not convinced that I'd be significantly happier with the Core Duo.
I currently use a pre-MDD G&W G4 Power Mac (~466, 512MB RAM) and a 15" G4 PB. The desktop is about shot, but I'll continue to use the PB on campus for the next year, until I upgrade to a macbook.
I just want a small, reliable desktop mac that I can use in my home office for writing my thesis, reports, etc. and keeping my iLife media together.
Thanks in advance for the advice.
15" PB G4 550mhz, 512mb Mac OS X (10.4.3)

I would concur. But, I'd even push for the Core Solo, if price is a real issue for you.
On the keyboard/mouse question, I use the Apple Wireless Keyboard and really like it. (It doesn't have the top plastic cover like other Apple keyboards, so you can really vacuum it out well.) If an ethernet cable is more clutter than you want, the extra cables for the keyboard and mouse will be significant. FWIW, I bought the BlueTake BT500 Bluetooth mouse. It's really tiny, and uses up batteries like they're going out of style (but I use rechargables), but otherwise, it's very nice and since it's so small it reduces wrist fatigue.

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this is the one;
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I've gone off on this too many times, so I'll cut myself off as shortly as I can, but since you asked...
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I am confused on two points.
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2. What Back-up system should I use?
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1. How big of a drive should I buy?
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2. What Back-up system should I use?
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I would appreciate any advice on what set up I should get. If you can comment with your back up configuration I would appreciate it as well!
Thanks!
For Time Machine you should get as large as you can afford because it will eventually fill. The brands and models I recommend are:
OWC (macsales.com) Mercury Elite Pro series
Lacie Quadra D2 series
G-Tech G series
all have similar functions and are all very high quality.
For your second question many on this forum (including myself) use a redundant backup strategy. My strategy is to use Time Machine and also to create a Bootable Clone using SuperDuper (CCC will work just as well). However NEVER NEVER NEVER put both backups on the same drive even if it has enough space. The reason being is very simple if that drive crashes you have lost both backups and defeated the whole purpose of a backup! There are numerous backup strategies available depending on your needs, fear factor and budget. I would recommend reading these MacWorld articles where they talk about different strategies. I think you will see a common theme in them though.
Backup Plan I
Backup Plan II
Backup Plan III
Roger

What kind of virus protection should I get for my iMac?

I tried downloading AVG, which I use for my PC laptop, but it didn't work.

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav— nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

What type of internal drive should I get for my Mac Pro?

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What kind of a case should I get for my video iPod?

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lizabler
Fifth Generation iPod 30 GB
Windows XP

You'll probably get a lot of opinions with iPod cases. Sometimes they are good, sometimes people report that they actually scratch an iPod.
Some iPod cases can be found at Apple's online store:
http://store.apple.com/1-800-MY-APPLE/WebObjects/AppleStore.woa/wa/RSLID?find=ip od+case
Be sure to click "Next" to go to the further pages to see all (or more of) the results for iPods cases.
Also, you might want to search the Discussions for suggestions with specific iPods cases; this is a question that is asked very frequently, so you might find more answers by searching the Discussions:
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Sorry I can't directly suggest any specific ones, but searching for various answers on here might really be helpful.
-Kylene

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I have ordered Photoshop Elements but mistakenly ordered a windows version rather than Mac, which is what I need. What do I do to get this changed?

I have ordered online Photoshop Elements 13 and Premiere Elements 13, but made the mistake of ordering the Windows version intstead of Mac. What do I have to do to convert?

Go here
Order product | Platform, language swap

My iPhoto won't load. I click on it and it just keeps showing the spinning wheel like it's loading, but it doesn't. It doesn't even show my albums anymore. What do I do? Should I get the iPhoto '11 and maybe that would work?

I don't know what to do. I've restarted, I've tried redownloading and updating. It's really frustrating and upsetting. If anyone could help it'd be appreciated!!

Try this: launch iPhoto with the Option key held down and create a new, test library. Import some photos and check to see if the same problem persists. If the new library can be created and open without a problem make a temporary, backup copy of the library and apply the two fixes below in order as needed:
Fix #1
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Select the options identified in the screenshot.
Fix #2
Using iPhoto Library Manager to Rebuild Your iPhoto Library
Download iPhoto Library Manager and launch.
Click on the Add Library button, navigate to your Home/Pictures folder and select your iPhoto Library folder.
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Click on the Create button.
Note: This creates a new library based on the LIbraryData.xml file in the library and will recover Events, Albums, keywords, titles and comments but not books, calendars or slideshows. The original library will be left untouched for further attempts at fixing the problem or in case the rebuilt library is not satisfactory.
OT

What version of Adobe Photoshop should I get for Mac 10.6.8 (and how do I trial it?)

Hi,
I want to trial (then likely buy) Photoshop. I downloaded v 13, but it doesn't work on my Mac (OS 10.6.8).
It likes like I need CS v5 or 6 (?) but I can't see anywhere on the Adobe site that I can download that?
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Download the trial version of CS6 from Download CS6 products
Buy from Creative Suite 6

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I work in film preservation, which requires a lot of rendering of DPX files.
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Don't know too much about hard drives, and I'd really appreciate any help.
Thanks in advance!

Thanks everyone,
The symptoms don't exactly correlate with the ones listed on the page about resetting the Systems Management Controller. Typically when I'm running a demanding program like After Effects or Compressor alongside Chrome, the screen will typically freeze up, though I retain control of the mouse. I can't click anything though, and it usually takes about a minute or two (after I've pressed command-option-esc) for the mac to start responding again. I think it's because I'm trying to make the mac do things it wasn't designed to do, such as run these processor-heavy programs. Lately it's also been freezing very frequently while playing Netflix. The movie just freezes, though I can still hear the sound continuing, and then in about a minute or two it will snap back to the currently playing part of the movie.
As far as overheating, I've made it possible for my mac to perform with these programs by either keeping it on an icepack or heavily ventilated with an exterior fan. It seems that after heavy bouts of using these programs though, the freezing frequency and seriousness is worse. If I don't keep the mac really well ventilated and it gets too hot, the screen just goes black, everything stops, and then in a few seconds it pops back as if nothing happened, running normally.
The model of my mac is:
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2009)
MacBookPro5,5
MB991xx/A
13.3"/2.53/2X2GB/250-5400
However, I did add some more RAM when I go the computer to help it along.
Thanks again for all and any help! It's very much appreciated.

Here's what I need... so what should I get?

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