Hi. i want to buy a movie in the mexican iTunes. can I do that if I live in Sweden?
Hi. I want to buy a movie in Spanish (not in Spain Spanish...vary sry but it sounds no good, to many zZz...) and I do like to see it in HD).
The problem is that I live in Sweden.
PS: you have brilliant people in design and engineering, but it seems that you put an monkey in the sales department.
Thanks in advance.
1. This is a user to user forum, you are not talking to Apple. If you wish to send feedback you can do so through the feedback page. http://apple.com/feedback
2. No. due to licensing issues, content can only be purchased from the country store that is defined in your Apple ID. That is to purchase from a specific store you need to have a valid payment method from the country the store belongs to and a billing address in that same country.
This is not something Apple controls or has very much say in. Its the rights owners and licensing and distribution agreements, and other drm difficulties in different parts of the world that determine this. Media licenses and rights management is very prickly subject. If this were not the case, there would be no need to have country specific stores.
In short to purchase from the Mexican store you would need a Mexican account with a Mexican credit card and a Mexican billing address.
Similar Messages
-
I want to buy a movie from the america itunes store. How do I, since I am Australian?
I want to buy Bruce Almighty from the american itunes store because the Australian itunes store doesn't have it. I really want it but I don't know how to buy it as I have tryed to login but a sign pops up saying that my account is only for the Australian itunes store.
How do I buy it?
Can I buy it?
Please help me.You can ONLY buy from the itunes store of your country of residence (verified by your billing address of your credit card) AND ONLY while inside the borders of that country.
-
Well the topic says it all. I'd be very happy if I could get advice how to get around this problem.
The iTunes Store in a country is intended only for use by that country's residents, and only while they are in the country. To use the iTunes Store in a country you need a credit card (or other card type if acceptable in a country) issued in that country, billed to an address in that country, and also be physically present in that country when using the store. You are also restricted to waiting 90 days between country changes.
E.g., "The iTunes Service is available to you only in the United States, its territories, and possessions. You agree not to use or attempt to use the iTunes Service from outside these locations. Apple may use technologies to verify your compliance." - http://www.apple.com/legal/itunes/us/terms.html#SERVICE -
I want to buy an album in the UK iTunes store, however it will not let me. How do I do this?
I want to buy an album in the UK iTunes store, however it will not let me. How do I do this? Help would be very much appreciated!
MusicLover67890 wrote:
I want to buy an album in the UK iTunes store, however it will not let me.
Why not?
Details... -
hello! i am from Romania and i want to buy an iphone from the USA site. can i buy it neverlocked? and if it is possible how much should it cost in totat(with transport and the iphone price)?
You can buy a factory unlocked on direct from Apple sim free, make sure you get the right one and not just a contract free one. I am sure one of our US members will be able to give you the price.
-
I really want to buy an album from the Australian iTunes, but I live in America
I really want to buy this album that is not on the American iTunes, I'm considering the option of setting up an account on the Aussie store, putting in my card (which would be American), and gifting the album to myself. Or if I must, I'd have to drain my $12USD in the American store... First world problems? :/
Any other suggestions or anyone willing to like... help? haha any input is appreciated.The copyright holders don't like cross border sales. Not only would you need a to clear out your current credit, but you would also need a credit card attached to an Australian address and for your initial purchase you might even find that you need to be working form a computer physically located in Australia.
tt2. -
Want to buy more movies from different countries...
live in the usa and want to buy some movies from europe, mainly italy and germany...?
Vincent...
"Although you can browse the iTunes Store in any country without being signed in, you can only purchase content from the iTunes Store for your own country. This is enforced via the billing address associated with your credit card or other payment method that you use with the iTunes Store."
From here > The Complete Guide to Using the iTunes Store | iLounge Article -
I live in the Netherlands and want to buy a movie on ITunes meant for Chile, South America.
Is this possible?No, you can only buy from your country's store - to be able to buy from the Chilean store you need to be in Chile with a Chilean billing address on your account. You can try requesting that the film be added to the Netherlands store, but without the film studio's agreement Apple won't be able to sell it there : http://www.apple.com/feedback/itunes.html
-
I forgot my security questions and I want to buy a movie?
I want to buy a movie and I forgot my security questions
Click here for information. If you can't get the answers emailed to you(it may take a few hours), contact the iTunes Store staff via the link in that article.
(79568) -
apple id was originally disabled. I reset my password and can sign into my apple id account. But when i want to buy an app in the app store it says my apple id is disabled again.
It's real easy to create a new one and, in fact, it's too easy. I say that because multiple IDs are a PIA. The problem is that anything obtained from the iTunes Store is PERMANENTLY associated with the ID that was used to obtain the item(s). iTunes items can not be transferred from one ID to another and IDs can not be merged.
The problem arises when you want to update an app. If you're doing it from iTunes on your computer, you must log out and back in to get to the correct ID. Then you update and log out/in again to get back to where you started. It's slightly easier if you update from the iPad/iPod device as there is no need to log out/in BUT you still need the correct password for the appropriate ID. Of course, with a disabled ID, the problem is much worse!
A replacement Apple ID makes sense ONLY if you wish to start out absolutely brand new with zero iTunes Store purchases.
If you're really butting your head aginst a wall and you're reasonably close to an Apple Store, my suggestion is that you make an appointment with the resident "Genius" and get his/her help.
One last thought... If your brother actually got a human on the phone to dispute the charges, go there and explain the problem. Of course, if Apple did not accept his explanation of what occurred, that could be the whole issue. Apple believes that money is owed on the account! -
Want to buy a home by the end of the year - do I have a chance?
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)?Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate?Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term?Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)?Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property?It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs?Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can 1. Mortgage Credit Scores:
What are your fico MORTGAGE credit scores for each mortgage applicant?I don't really want to pay to get mortgage scores now because I'm not ready to get prequalified... still paying down credit cards, so to me it's useless to get the score until my credit situation is stable. Here are free scores from credit cards and whatnot:
Myself:Discover 6/21: 773Citi 5/26: 744Capital One 6/18: 746Mint.com 4/7: 686 (score to be updated July 7th) My Wife:Discover 6/14: 749 Based on these, and the general deviation between them and mortgage scores (<50 points?) I think I would be able to qualify for a conventional loan, skipping FHA (ugh... mortgage insurance for life?). Some low-downpayment loan programs like Fannie Mae's MyCommunityMortgage (MCM) require higher scores (especially for DU), and I do think I would have the required 680-or-so, but as I mention elsewhere in this post, I haven't found an NJ MCM lender (other than brokers). But ideally, a 3% downpayment (like MCM) and reduced (compared to FHA and conventional) MI (again, like MCM) would be ideal... Obviously, there's no guarantee that these are anywhere close to the mortgage scores, so once I feel like I've paid down my cards as far as I need to (i.e. I feel I'm ready to get pre-qualified), I'll make sure to buy the mortgage scores. I'm thinking that point will be in about a month, but that depends on your answer(s) to question 8 :\ 2. Credit Negatives: None except for a late payment more than 24 months ago on a student loan that was in "interest-only deferment." I believe that's on TransUnion, which is what Capital One pulls. 3. Gross Income./4. Source of income. Myself: $65,000 (+ bonus that some years is as low as $500, so won't include it)My wife: $13,000 (±$2,000) All income is from employment (hers is part-time, and with two retail jobs, very likely to vary; mine is a salaried position). I may get an added part-time just to boost my savings, but it wouldn't be reported to them (I'm thinking a 3-6 month deal). 5. Monthly debt payments. Here are all my cards and loans, including month opened, APR, balance, limit, and payment. All balances as of today: Currently in my name w/wife as authorized user:Elan Financial CC, opened 6/2013, 20% APR:$-10 ($10,600 CL); payment $0Discover It CC, opened 5/2013, 15% APR:$2,900 ($5,000 CL); payment $59 **current APR 0% since entire balance was transferred from Elan at one point with a 0% offer that expires in AugustCapital One Quicksilver CC, opened 2008, 16% APR:$678 ($4,000 CL); payment $25Citi ThankYou Preferred CC, opened 8/2013, 14% APR:$700 ($2,600 CL); payment $25BankAmericard Cash Rewards CC, opened 8/2013, 15% APR:$616 ($2,000 CL); payment $25 My credit limits all went up within the last 6 months. Before then, they were $6,600 for Elan, $4,000 for Discover, $1,000 for Capital, $2,000 for Citi, and $800 for Bank of America. BofA was the only one that didn't automatically raise my limit or tell me I should request an increase, and when I requested it, they were the only ones that hit me with a HP. The Kay card below has also had a constantly-rising credit limit, from an original of $500, to $2500 a year ago, to the current $4000. Just in my name:Kay Jewelers CC, opened 4/2012, ridiculous (25%?) APR:$0 ($4,000 CL) - payment $0Macy's CC, opened 5/2014, 25% APR:$0 ($600 CL as of March) - payment $0M&T Auto Loan, since 9/2013, 5.3% APR:$10,310 ($14,218 original) - payment $231 (72 months total)HESAA/NJ Class, in repayment since 6/2015, 7.5% (approx. avg.) APR:$13,014 (originally less, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $131FedLoans Direct Loans, in grace until 11/2015, 5% (avg.) APR:$56,237 (originally $52,000, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $403 under standard repayment, <$250 under extended repayment ("Mortgage Letter" shows $403 unfortunately, since I can't pick a repayment plan now unless I forfeit the rest of the grace period) Wife's name w/me as authorized user:Discover CC, opened 5/2015, ridiculous (>20%) APR:$1,304 ($1,500 CL) - payment $35 So basically, I have a crapload of debt and quite a few recent inquiries. However, my credit score shot up when:The 5/2013 accounts aged to 2 years (and thus the inquiries were removed);I paid down cards and increased limits; usage went from ~$13k of ~$19k revolving limit used to about ~$6.5k (at one point) of about ~$25k (at one point) revolving limit used; now it's at about $5k used of $29k;I was added as an authorized user on my wife's card (at card opening).I think those point to a nice boost to the credit score when (1) I pay down the cards even more [to end of July], and (2) the three inquiries from BofA, Citi, and M&T disappear [2 in Aug, 1 in Sep]. Sounds like my pre-approval should be early October, making my intended closing date near-impossible . Maybe I can still qualify with a good rate despite the inquiries?
6. Employment (for those who are employed). Myself:Went from $16k/year to $26k/year part-time while in school, now $65k/year (as of last month) and salaried, all at the same company for 4 years now, and the boost was due to graduating; surely they can throw out the 2-year requirement? I plan on staying here for many years, and am about 99.9% certain there will be no reason for that income to drop in the forseeable future. Wife:Nothing's sure, and it's very low pay. As noted above, $13k/year at the moment, but she's unhappy with both (retail... ugh) jobs, so that's not guaranteed. She's looking for a break and a decent office job, but even if she gets it, I'm pretty sure the short length of time that she'd have it before getting a loan would make the difference in income useless. I'll add here our budget: In our current situation, with about $5000/month net income ($1k from her, $4k from me), we can comfortably save $2000/month. July and October are 5-week months, so that goes up to $3000 those months. However, I'm using the $3000 surplus from this month to pay down cards. So that's $7k added to savings thru October or $9k thru November. Hypothetically, I could "skip" paying off cards (or pay down all but Discover) in order to boost up savings.
7. Assets/Reserves. This is to determine how much you could potentially have as a down payment and also as reserves to help qualify (for example if your debt to income ratio is high this could help qualify you anyway). Savings: $5000Checking: Everything that goes in, goes to paying credit cards or into savings. I haven't made a purchase transaction with a debit card in over a year because I get points on all my cards. So call it $0 available for moving to savings.
8. Location: This is to determine govt guaranteed loan limits, what special programs might be available for you, how much property taxes & homeowners insurance will likely be, amongst other items. Central New Jersey (Somerset, Middlesex, possibly Hunterdon counties). I don't know where I can find a "conforming" 3-3.5% down loan here that's not FHA, since no local banks seem to advertise something like it. I've been looking at MyCommunityMortgage and they seem awesome - 3-5% down with mortgage insurance that is typical for 10-15%-down conventional loans - but when I do search for "Fannie Mae + your home state" as recommended, all I get is HomeFirst and general info on MyCommunityMortgage (since the income/value limits are higher for NJ, that info gets included in all their documentation on the program).
9. Property Description: Single-family, "single home" (no townhouse/condo). No foreclosures, short sales, or other "as-is" situations.
10. Property Value. $200,000-$250,000
11. Occupancy. Currently? Rent $550/mo. As far as every credit application I've filled out is concerned, it's my responsibility. However, since the contract IS in both our names, I could hypothetically call it $275/mo (even split) or $440/mo (split based on relative income). Not sure what that would help/hurt with; I've heard of sticker shock being a concern for some, but if all goes according to plan ($2000/mo into savings, basically the amount the mortgage+tax+insurance would be), I don't see that being an issue. 12. Transaction Type. Purchase - primary residence. ----------------------------------------- Sorry for the extremely long post... and thank you all in advanceGeorgie_Boy wrote:
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)? You want to get as many of your ccs to zero as you can ...optimum scoring is one account carrying a balance of 3-9% of your CL, all others at zero ...the mortgage lenders will count each account with a balance as a monthly debt due equal to your minimum payment when calculating your dtirs ...those minimum payments quickly add up and can seriously impact how much you can get approved for.Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Ignore the personal loan offers. You have a decent credit mix now between your ccs and auto installment loan. A personal loan would only hurt your scores at this point.Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate? Not personally familiar with these but it looks like a SL from the other info you've provided. Generically you should refinance when the total cost of doing so is beneficial to you. That said, a mortgage lender is going to look at total student debt, and use the greater of your current payment or 1% of the total ...thus refinancing for mortgage purposes may not result in any dtir benefit to you. Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term? If this is a new car loan, yes ...if its a used car loan, it depends on age and value because your current rate isn't outrageous for an older car loan ...generically, if you can refinance to a lower monthly payment at a reasonable cost, you should do so in order to lower your dtir ...but its a trade-off because the HP will probably cost you a few points on your scores.Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)? All of the govt guaranteed loan programs have recently moved to using the higher of your current payment or 1% of the total in your dtir calculations ...do the math and act accordingly. Be wary of any lender that is not using the higher figure when giving you preapproval numbers, uw will inevitably catch it and it could torpedo your loan after you've signed a contract and spent on prepaids and fees.Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property? She is either on the loan or not ...you can't have it both ways. At the time you apply, your LO will look at both of your incomes and tell you what will work best in your situation. As long as her income can be documented via tax returns, it should be "useable"It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs? This is very specific to the loan program ...conventional with 5% dp limits seller concessions to 3%, FHA is 6% regardless, USDA is technically unlimited ...be aware that every lender will have their own overlays which may affect those numbers. It is also affected greatly by your market conditions which at the moment vary greatly by your locale ...in a buyers market, you can expect seller concessions ...in a sellers market, probably not. USDA offers the best govt guarantee program for closing costs since they will allow you to include closing costs in the loan up to the appraised value. New Jersey's web site is screwed up (at least for me) and I can't nail down exactly what dp/closing cost assistance programs are available to you but it looks very dependent on the specific location you are buying in.Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? DO NOT get "pre-qualified" ...get "pre-approved" ...a pre-qual is virtually meaningless ...a pre-approval means they've actually looked at your documentation and, short of verification, are reasonably sure they can get you to closing ...its a huge difference ...as far as when? ...yesterday would have been great ...rates are rising ...its almost certainly going to get worse ...so bite the bullet ...find a decent realtor in your target area, ask them to recommend lenders they have worked with that can actually close their loans ...talk to those lenders ...get a pre-app ...go shopping ...if your credit scores/dtir improve significantly because of cc paydowns, ask your lender to rescore you ...mortgage pulls within 30-60 days all count as one HP. Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can 1. Mortgage Credit Scores: Its essential to your question of "when" that you know your actual mortgage scores ...the Discover scores are actual Fico cc scores, the others are FAKOs afaik ...but the Fico cc and mortgage scoring models differ in several important ways and vary easily by +/- 50 points depending on what is in your CRA files ...mine actually track fairly closely but others have seen very negative differences ...its worth the $40 imnsho to know where you actually stand ...anything you do to improve them in the next month will only help but is not sufficient reason to delay ...again imnsho. 2. Credit Negatives: Have you tried to have the late removed from the CR? Depending on the SL source, some programs have been very responsive to GW requests after a good payment record has been reestablished ...ymmv but you lose nothing by trying. 5. Monthly debt payments. Get the Discover to under $500 if possible ...and ask for a CLI asap ...Discover has been handing them out like candy lately ...keep a balance open 3-9% if possible but if not, as low as you can ...its more important to zero the other ccs first.Capital One Quicksilver CC, opened 2008, 16% APR:$678 ($4,000 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zeroCiti ThankYou Preferred CC, opened 8/2013, 14% APR:$700 ($2,600 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zeroBankAmericard Cash Rewards CC, opened 8/2013, 15% APR:$616 ($2,000 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zero HESAA/NJ Class, in repayment since 6/2015, 7.5% (approx. avg.) APR:$13,014 (originally less, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $131FedLoans Direct Loans, in grace until 11/2015, 5% (avg.) APR:$56,237 (originally $52,000, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $403 under standard repayment, <$250 under extended repayment ("Mortgage Letter" shows $403 unfortunately, since I can't pick a repayment plan now unless I forfeit the rest of the grace period)Its almost certain that the last two will be seen as a combined 69k SL with $690 used in your dtir calculation Wife's name w/me as authorized user:Discover CC, opened 5/2015, ridiculous (>20%) APR:$1,304 ($1,500 CL) - payment $35 ...pay this to zero Credit score almost certainly isn't your major problem ...debt-to-income is Total income = 78k =6500 moTotal mo debt = 134cc/231auto/690SL= 1055 + ~1600 mo PITI+MI (220k@5%/5%dp) NJ taxes are higher than national avgs = 2655 total monthly paymentsThats a be ratio of 41% ...ideal is <36% but many programs will go higher
6. Employment (for those who are employed). Do not count on reason and logic being used in the mortgage process ...this will come down to finding a lender who will work with you ...if the 4 yrs is same company and the line of work matches your degree, it may not be a problem ...but its one reason you want to get the pre-approval process going now ...to find a lender who knows your exact situation, has reviewed the documentation, and given you a pre-approval knowing all the facts ...av pre-qual will look at your score, ask you for your current income, and promise you pie-in-the-sky until the rubber meets the road and his uw upchucks over your employment history ...goodbye loan and all the money you paid ...get a real pre-approval 8. Location: Hunterdon county has a lot of areas eligible for the USDA program and your income is well within the limits ...if the commute is acceptable, its a good program. Somerset/Middlesex are mostly ineligible. The NJ website for dp assistance programs isn't working for me but take the effort to ask your prospective lenders about these programs and their experience with them. Any that pooh pooh them should be scratched off your list. 11. Occupancy. Sticker shock WILL be an UW issue but you appear to have it addressed. Current rent will not factor in to dtir for your mortgage. ----------------------------------------- Sorry for the extremely long post... and thank you all in advance ...I could only wish that everyone would supply as much info as you have ...please feel free to ask if you dont understand ofr if I misunderstood something ...hth -
I bought an iPad and an iTunes card, I want to buy an application from the Apps store but it only gives me the option of credit card. How can I buy Pages with my iTunes card to my iPad? thank you
Have you redeemed your iTunes card to an account associated with an Apple ID?
Once you have your iPad associated with an Apple ID AND you have an account with a credit card associated with the same Apple ID AND you have some 'store credit' (from redeeming your iTunes card) then purchases use the store credit before they charge the credit card, so you should be ok!
Personally, I use 'store credit' as a way to monitor whether or not there have been any 'unauthorised' purchases because as soon as the store credit is zero, the security code from the credit card is needed for further purchases! It does mean that I have sometimes to top up store credit before making a purchase, but 'better safe than sorry'! -
HT201363 i Want To Buy a Game On The phone but the security Questions i forgot and the Email
I Have a Iphone 5c i Want To Buy a Game On The phone but the security Questions i forgot and the Email To Change Them i forgot can you please help me with the email i sent them To?
<Edited by Host>Welcome to the user to User Technical Support Forum provided by Apple.
Please do not post personal information on a Public Forum.
I have requested the Hosts remove it for you.
For your issue...
See Here > Apple ID: Contacting Apple for help with Apple ID account security
Ask to speak with the Account Security Team...
Or Email Here > Apple Support iTunes Store Contact
More Info > Apple ID: All about Apple ID security questions
Note:
You can only set up and/or change a Rescue Email Before you forget the questions/answers. -
just lost EUR 4,99 because of the Known Apple TV Bug. I don't care about the money! I just want to see this movie to the end! NOW!!
Welcome to the Apple Community.
Without knowing what the problem is, no-one can help. You did not need to repurchase anything. -
If I buy a movie or music on iTunes or play google can post on YouTube without giving copyright?
if I buy a movie or music on iTunes or play google can post on YouTube without giving copyright?
No
Maybe you are looking for
-
I inserted a formula column and written an SQL statement which sometimes returns a value. But sometimes there is no data matches the criteria so no row is selected. In this case reports gives fatal error warning and stops. To get around this i wrote
-
I have an Iphone 4s and i can't make a connection to my mac and other devices via bluetooth! Why is this a problem and how can i repair it?
-
Hi,Friends I Want to Implement BADI , Which is already available in SAP. The Path for BADI is given below. SPRO->SAP Reference IMG->Materials Management->Purchasing->Business Add-Ins for Purchasing Name of BADI 1 Control of Pricing Type: Additional F
-
How to copy and paste Text in iMovie?
Applying text to clips in iMovie is a breeze, also customizing fonts & colour. However, when you finally have your text finalized, the logical thing is to reuse that design throughout the movie. As a previous Pinnacle Studio user, I intuitively would
-
Drag drop from bridge to InDesign.
I am having problems with getting drag drop to work from bridge to InDesign. I have made an extension that reads information from ouer dam and shows it in bridge. I wont to bee able to drag a node from that data from bridge(It shows fine in bridge wi