High contrast colour flashing

Hi,
Recently started using W500 (T9600 @ 2.8Ghz, 4gig ram) with Windows 7 64. If I, for instance, connect hardware (eg printer) via usb or if I open various pages in Windows Explorer, my display flashes into what appears to be high contrast or negative. At first I thought it might be a Win 7 thing but've just installed Win 7 on my T61p & that doesn't do it. I'm guessing it's indicative of some kinda fault & wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction?
Cheers

Hi There,
             Thanx for taking the time.
             Have an idea the problems a graphics thing. With no connections or programmes open, I connect my printer. As soon as I switch it on everything, background picture, desktop, taskbar, etc., flashes a coupla times with lots of grey/silver, dark blue/purple colour ( can't be too sure 'cos I'm colourblind as hell plus it happens real quick.
              I've run System Update 4. All done. Been thru' device manager : all drivers up to date. To be honest I'm rather reluctant to actually start uninstalling them without knowing what I'm likely to disable as my only internet connection's via USB modem - concerned I'd be unable to download replacement software. Especially true re: BIOS. Currently have BIOS 7VET66WW (2.16). Options in Support are varied & I'm not sure which I should use, if any.
              Also, this isn't exclusive to USB use. With nothing connected & nothing running I open 'Computer' from Start menu.
Click on System Properties and off she goes with the flashing. Likewise with navigating thru' Control Panel pages. I've tried updating/ un- & reinstalling ATI drivers but to no avail.
               Dunno if you've any further thoughts? Anything very much appreciated.
               Cheers.

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You're welcome
In case you don't want to buy a new iPhone, Apple will replace the whole unit if you are willing to pay the service fee of 149$ for the iPhone4.
Out-of-warranty repair service
If your repair isn’t covered by Apple’s One Year Limited Warranty, AppleCare+, or AppleCare Protection Plan, your iPhone might be eligible for out-of-warranty service. For example, liquid damage isn’t covered by warranty but might be eligible for out-of-warranty service. Some damage isn’t eligible at all, for example if your device has been broken into multiple pieces. See Apple’s Repair Terms and Conditions for complete details.
Read Apple’s Repair Terms and Conditions
Model
Out-of-warranty service fee
Battery service*
iPhone 6 Plus
$329
$79
*available only if battery
fails Apple’s diagnostic test
iPhone 6
$299
iPhone 5s, iPhone 5c, iPhone 5
$269
iPhone 4s
$199
iPhone 4, iPhone 3GS, iPhone 3G,
Original iPhone
$149
Plus a $6.95 shipping fee, if required. Fees are in USD and exclude local tax. Pricing is for service through Apple. The final service fee we charge will be determined during testing and may be less than the service fee listed above. Pricing and terms vary for service through an Apple Authorized Service Provider.
copied from Service Answer Center - iPhone

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FIrst of all, it takes time to learn how to use a complex camera system well, so don't beat up on yourself a lot or give up on the gear you already have too quickly. Keep taking lots of photos, analyzing them and how you might have made them better. All cameras and lenses have their ideal uses and limits, it's just a matter of learning them and there's no substitute for experience. Get the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and read it, study it, learn it. That's the best single book every semi-serious to serious photographer who wants to improve their skills should read.... Might turn out to be the best $18 you ever spend on your photography.
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A lot of your questions seem to be about lighting. If you ever watch a movie being shot or a pro making still portraits or macro shots, you are likely to see them using some sort of light modifiers.... reflectors to "bounce" more light onto a subject, fill flash to open up shadows, flags to block light, diffusers to reduce contrast and more. Monte Zucker was a master portrait photographer who specialized in available light (no flash) and made use of what he found on location and modifiers such as these... even invented a few of them. These are tools that you might use, or you can learn to look for similarly "ideal" lighting that's naturally occuring and will give you the effects you want. For example, if shooting close-ups and macro shots of flowers, insects and such, I often look for light shade to work in... or pray for a moderately overcast day (all too rare here in Calif.). Same can be done with portraits and many other types of photography.
To get great color in your images, you should get set up for and learn to do a Custom White Balance. This will insure optimal color in a wide variety of situations. Auto White Balance is very usable, especially in full sun. However, shade or indoors/artificial lighting comes in a wide spectrum of colors and can challenge AWB, or you might prefer it be rendered differently than the auto mode will do. There are a bunch of "preset" White Balance you might use - flash, tungsten, shade, etc. - but setting a Custom WB can very often give more accurate results. There are WB targets (usually white or neutral gray) that can be used to quickly set up a Custom WB simply by taking a test shot and telling the camera "this is what you should use" to set WB. There are even "warm cards", which are lightly tinted to cause slight bias toward a little warmer looking image, or in some cases cooler.
Shooting digitally, a lot of what you want to do can be, or might would even be better accomplished in post-processing..., i.e. at your computer at home. Today with digital photography we all are essentially our own "photo labs", too. More to learn, I'm afraid. There are various image editing and optimization softwares, as well as very helpful things like graphics quality computer monitors and calibration devices. It's hard to take your images to their "best" without some additional "development" at your computer. Shoot RAW for the maximum ability to make adjusments to your images in post-processing. This includes the ability to change White Balance quite freely. But a RAW file is sort of like a negative from the days of film... taking the shot is just the first step, the post-processing is necessary and an important part of creating the final image. (Note: Shooting RAW + JPEG is a good learning tool.... once you can make finished images from your RAW files that are better than JPEGs it's producing itself, you can stop shooting JPEGs at all.)
Sorry, but you aren't going to be able to do this "without a lot of thinking"
However, over time you will find that working with your camera and lenses... as well as everything else that's part of the process... becomes easier and eventually a lot of it will be second-nature. You'll need to do a lot of practice and study at first... and may feel overwhelmed at times. But gradually and eventually you'll realize that you know exactly what to do to get the images you want in many different situations. Don't be too quick to change or add more gear, because that just means starting some of the learning process over again.
With respect to wildlife photography, yes a 300mm lens on a 6D may not be enough reach a lot of the time. You have several possible solutions: get a longer focal length lens (Canon 400/5.6L is reasonably priced and quite good, but lacks IS so plan on using a tripod or at least a monopod... Canon 500/4L IS is fantastic, but pretty expensive and quite large... think "tripod only").... Or, get a crop sensor camera (70D for example) to complement your full frame camera. The 300mm will "act like" a longer focal length, when used on a crop sensor camera.
Be warned, though, small wildlife, birds and such, there is no such thing as a "long enough" telephoto. If you have 300mm, you'll want 400mm.... But once you get that 400mm, you'll want a 500mm, etc., etc. Eventually the lenses get very pricey and large, hard to hold steady and even shooting through a lot of atmosphere will reduce image quality. So other solutions you'll probably want to learn inlude stalking skills, use of blinds, calls, decoys, baits to bring subjects closer.
A lot of patience is needed too. There are times the subject is just too far away and all you can do is sit back and enjoy the show, hoping they'll come closer. Sometimes I've spent weeks or even months acclimating animals to allow me to approach close enough to get the shots I want (Canon EF 135/2L lens on Canon 7D)...
Other times I've found locations where the critters are already relatively accustomed to people and will let me get close (EF 300/4 IS USM lens on 7D)...
Hunger sometimes outweighs shyness and fear, too (EF 300/4L IS USM on 7D)...
While some wildlife could care less about you and may even give you repeated opportunities to get a good shot of them (EF 300/4L IS USM lens on 5D MkII)...
Hope this helps!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
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<pre><nowiki>
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