High Contrast Controls?

In 'settings' what does changing 'High Contrast Controls' do?

High Contrast Controls affect how controls in the Photoshop Express camera look. With it enabled, you should see bolder icons when the in camera mode. For example, the zoom slider, flash selector, etc.will look more prominent when viewed against the background of the live camera image. This feature is off by default.
Hope that helps...

Similar Messages

How do I make Firefox ignore the "Use High Contrast" option in Windows?

I am taking care of a Windows XP machine which is running in "High Contrast Mode" for accessibility reasons. This display mode is enabled via the Control Panel of Windows (Accessibility Options, Display, Use High Contrast) and it has major impact on how Firefox display web pages. What I want to do is make Firefox ''ignore'' this operating system option, so web pages will be rendered "normally", but keep Windows in High Contrast Mode.
Is there any way I can make Firefox ignore this setting? I.e. run Windows in High Contrast Mode, but not Firefox?
A similar questions has been discussed here:
http://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/Website%20colors%20are%20wrong
However, I don't want to disable High Contrast for Windows and the whole machine, just for Firefox.
Thanks in advance
Bounder of Adventure

John,
thanks for your comments. The computer is mainly used by a visually impaired person. She doesn't do much web surfing though and doesn't really need a high contrast web browser. If however a colleague wants to help her maintain the machine or quickly wants to look up something on the web for her, then it would be great if it was possible to access web pages "unfiltered", in their regular look and feel, as designed by the web author. In fact, the High Contrast Mode significantly changes the way web pages look, and sometimes screen elements needed for navigation etc. are suppressed or rendered invisible. (This, of course, is often related to poor web design, like graphical buttons or links with the actual label as a background image or without an ALT attribute, but unfortunately, vast parts of the web are not really "accessible", so accessibility will remain an issue for the browser as well.)
Creating a separate user account certainly is an option, especially for shared machines, but it makes it more complicated to quickly jump in and give her a hand. That's why separate user accounts are not really popular here; instead, Opera was installed which does not adhere to the OS setting and therefore grants a neutral view to all web pages.
Actually, when I started investigating on that issue, I was quite surprised that there was no option for this in Firefox, not even in "about:config". After all, Firefox obviously queries the OS for the Contrast setting and then chooses to render the page this or that way, so I thought they certainly implemented a flag or something to change the behavior. It seems however there is no such flag, is there? This distinction seems to be entirely hard-wired.
I am not sure if this is the place for change requests, but if somebody stumbles upon this question, is there any chance to make this setting open to the public? Something like an option "accessibility.useoscontrastsetting" or so? This might also facilitate it to develop an add-on for on-demand switching between the two modes, and web designers could check more easily how their work looks for those with poor eyesight.
Greetings,
Bounder of Adventure

Best lens/settings for outdoor shots (high contrast) with 6D?

I have a 6D I'm just getting started with. When I get a perfect shot (perfect lighting, color saturation, depth of field, etc), I LOVE it! The trouble is, I'm not getting enough of them. Not capturing what my eye sees with good repeatablilty. I have the following lenses for it: The 70-300mm zoom that came with it; a 24-105mm; a 17-40mm ultra wide angle; and a 50mm 1.4 fixed (dumb impulse purchase that I haven't found too useful). I am planning a trip to our tulip festival, and there will be loads of colors and likely high contrast as it will be a mostly sunny day with some clouds. PERFECT, right? Except I find that many times, particularly on my full auto settings, I am not getting the exposures I want! The photos often turn out kinda washed out, without the full saturation I want. And sadly, I'm just not able to compensate for that with the photo editing software I have. As I said, I'm just a beginner and don't want to lug around a manual with me to read while trying to get a good shot, so...anyone have any quick and dirty advice for which of my lenses will be the best to use for distance vs closeup of the flowers, and what settings to use with it? Full auto vs A, AV, or full manual? And if I use full manual, what priority do I want to get the best saturation? Urgh, I hope this isn't too crazy wide-open of a question to be able to get good helpful responses, it's hard to know what to ask. I just want to get some really good, color-rich, good depth and texture photos without a lot of thinking, lol. Thanks! PS-- I'm thinking of selling my 50mm and maybe one of my other ones to get a different one with better ranges. Any suggestions? I tend to do a lot of wildlife and landscapes, if that's any help, and find sometimes that the 300mm doesn't cut it.
Thanks again!

FIrst of all, it takes time to learn how to use a complex camera system well, so don't beat up on yourself a lot or give up on the gear you already have too quickly. Keep taking lots of photos, analyzing them and how you might have made them better. All cameras and lenses have their ideal uses and limits, it's just a matter of learning them and there's no substitute for experience. Get the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and read it, study it, learn it. That's the best single book every semi-serious to serious photographer who wants to improve their skills should read.... Might turn out to be the best $18 you ever spend on your photography.
The various exposure modes each have their uses. I see some people suggest using M (manual) only... but that's slower and limiting and there are times it will prevent you from "getting the shot". Av (aperture priority), Tv (shutter priority) and even P (program) all have their uses. I like to set my camera to M and forget it, but that's really only possible when lighting is very steady and consistent or I have time to carefully set up each shot.
Much of the time I have to use Av or Tv because of variable lighting conditions. This can be because of intermittent clouds changing the intensity of light itself, or because I'm trying to capture shots of a subject that's moving in and out of different lighting. I tend to use Program when I just need a quick shot in different light than I've been working, and don't have time to calculate my exposure and am not very concerned about depth of field (aperture) or freezing or blurring subject movement (shutter speed). All three of these auto exposure modes (as Canon calls them) require experience with and knowledge of how subject tonality effects the camera's reflective metering system and how to use Exposure Compensation to correct for it.
There's a "tool" built right into your camera that can help you learn about the exposure controls and how your choices with them effect your images.... On the top dial there's a "CA" setting, which is a great learning tool that will give you feedback on the LCD screen about your settings. This might take the place of carrying around the manual and consulting it before each shot. Try it!
Personally I don't use the "SCN" or "Green Box/A+" modes, both of which are super auto exposure... That dictate a lot more camera settings than just exposure. These also limit focus modes, file types, color rendition, and more. Av, Tv, P are plenty of automation for me.
A lot of your questions seem to be about lighting. If you ever watch a movie being shot or a pro making still portraits or macro shots, you are likely to see them using some sort of light modifiers.... reflectors to "bounce" more light onto a subject, fill flash to open up shadows, flags to block light, diffusers to reduce contrast and more. Monte Zucker was a master portrait photographer who specialized in available light (no flash) and made use of what he found on location and modifiers such as these... even invented a few of them. These are tools that you might use, or you can learn to look for similarly "ideal" lighting that's naturally occuring and will give you the effects you want. For example, if shooting close-ups and macro shots of flowers, insects and such, I often look for light shade to work in... or pray for a moderately overcast day (all too rare here in Calif.). Same can be done with portraits and many other types of photography.
To get great color in your images, you should get set up for and learn to do a Custom White Balance. This will insure optimal color in a wide variety of situations. Auto White Balance is very usable, especially in full sun. However, shade or indoors/artificial lighting comes in a wide spectrum of colors and can challenge AWB, or you might prefer it be rendered differently than the auto mode will do. There are a bunch of "preset" White Balance you might use - flash, tungsten, shade, etc. - but setting a Custom WB can very often give more accurate results. There are WB targets (usually white or neutral gray) that can be used to quickly set up a Custom WB simply by taking a test shot and telling the camera "this is what you should use" to set WB. There are even "warm cards", which are lightly tinted to cause slight bias toward a little warmer looking image, or in some cases cooler.
Shooting digitally, a lot of what you want to do can be, or might would even be better accomplished in post-processing..., i.e. at your computer at home. Today with digital photography we all are essentially our own "photo labs", too. More to learn, I'm afraid. There are various image editing and optimization softwares, as well as very helpful things like graphics quality computer monitors and calibration devices. It's hard to take your images to their "best" without some additional "development" at your computer. Shoot RAW for the maximum ability to make adjusments to your images in post-processing. This includes the ability to change White Balance quite freely. But a RAW file is sort of like a negative from the days of film... taking the shot is just the first step, the post-processing is necessary and an important part of creating the final image. (Note: Shooting RAW + JPEG is a good learning tool.... once you can make finished images from your RAW files that are better than JPEGs it's producing itself, you can stop shooting JPEGs at all.)
Sorry, but you aren't going to be able to do this "without a lot of thinking"
However, over time you will find that working with your camera and lenses... as well as everything else that's part of the process... becomes easier and eventually a lot of it will be second-nature. You'll need to do a lot of practice and study at first... and may feel overwhelmed at times. But gradually and eventually you'll realize that you know exactly what to do to get the images you want in many different situations. Don't be too quick to change or add more gear, because that just means starting some of the learning process over again.
With respect to wildlife photography, yes a 300mm lens on a 6D may not be enough reach a lot of the time. You have several possible solutions: get a longer focal length lens (Canon 400/5.6L is reasonably priced and quite good, but lacks IS so plan on using a tripod or at least a monopod... Canon 500/4L IS is fantastic, but pretty expensive and quite large... think "tripod only").... Or, get a crop sensor camera (70D for example) to complement your full frame camera. The 300mm will "act like" a longer focal length, when used on a crop sensor camera.
Be warned, though, small wildlife, birds and such, there is no such thing as a "long enough" telephoto. If you have 300mm, you'll want 400mm.... But once you get that 400mm, you'll want a 500mm, etc., etc. Eventually the lenses get very pricey and large, hard to hold steady and even shooting through a lot of atmosphere will reduce image quality. So other solutions you'll probably want to learn inlude stalking skills, use of blinds, calls, decoys, baits to bring subjects closer.
A lot of patience is needed too. There are times the subject is just too far away and all you can do is sit back and enjoy the show, hoping they'll come closer. Sometimes I've spent weeks or even months acclimating animals to allow me to approach close enough to get the shots I want (Canon EF 135/2L lens on Canon 7D)...
Other times I've found locations where the critters are already relatively accustomed to people and will let me get close (EF 300/4 IS USM lens on 7D)...
Hunger sometimes outweighs shyness and fear, too (EF 300/4L IS USM on 7D)...
While some wildlife could care less about you and may even give you repeated opportunities to get a good shot of them (EF 300/4L IS USM lens on 5D MkII)...
Hope this helps!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

My screen went high-contrast. color profiles and calibration didn't help. It looks fine before I log in though!

My screen went high-contrast. color profiles and calibration didn't work well -
HOWEVER-
It looks fine right before I log in!
Is there a way to repair the color profiles or whatev?
I Installed Photoshop Elements and Premiere Elements a couple weeks ago that's when I think it began

I found it! "Enhanced Contrast" was set in the "Universal Access" control panel
Thanks, whoever posted that!

T510 DISPLAY Issue: Intermittent high Contrast/Brightness

Hi folks - This is my first Lenovo forum submission and I will do my best to describe the problem with my laptops' video/display. I'm all ears for your suggestions.
*Issue*
The display would occassionally dip down in brightness/contrast then change up to a very HIGH contrast level on its own. The desktop icons, background image & browser images become un-sightly bright BEYOND your normal Lenovo Power Manager settings. All the white hues turn even brighter, and some hues are NOT viewable at all on certain backdrops. Usually, it resolves itself after several minutes.Then it's business as usual.
I do not believe it has anything to do with the Power Manager settings (e.g. Idle Time, brightness control, Battery vs AC power, etc.). It simply occurs on it's own then disappears. A reboot can help and so does closing the lid and re-logging into Windows. But who wants to practice that technique after paying over $1600 for a professional grade business laptop?
I found only ONE forum message that came close to reporting the problem, found in the body of a message and NOT as a subject (SEARCH: "screen image fades as if you lose contrast")
Frequency ? - Atleast 4 times a month for the past 3-4 months since my purchase in summer 2010.
OS: Windows 7 (64 bit)
CPU: i5-540M 2.53GHZ
RAM: 4 GB
Laptop model: T-510
Laptop Product ID: 4313CTO
Graphics: 15.6 HD+
Battery: 6-cell
Purchase date: summer 2010
Solved!
Go to Solution.

http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T400-T500-and-newer-T-series/T410-Screen-flickering-randomly-screen-cont...
W520: i7-2720QM, Q2000M at 1080/688/1376, 21GB RAM, 500GB + 750GB HDD, FHD screen
X61T: L7500, 3GB RAM, 500GB HDD, XGA screen, Ultrabase
Y3P: 5Y70, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD, QHD+ screen

High Contrast themes on Windows 7&8 overwrites css styles on webpage, how do keep the High Contrast themes setting on window and use the stock CCS?

This was not a problem for me until Windows 8 now makes it so you HAVE to use high contrast theme to be able to change the background on windows explorer. Otherwise you have to accept it always being white. If there is a windows program that allowed me to change the windows colors like you used to be able to then I would not need to use the high contrast.

Note I have click on the Firefox button (Tools menu) and then click Options
Select the Content panel then Click the Colors... button.
I do have checkbox beside "Allow pages to choose their own colors, instead of my selections above" checked.
BUT Still
Windows somehow overrides this. This is bugging the hell out of me. How is it what windows has any control over Firefox's controls anyways?

Why does Firefox need a refresh when high contrast theme is selected?

Shouldn't it change content immediately when it detects a theme change? IE 11 does this and it would be a really nice-to-have feature, especially when it comes to accessbility constraints...

cor-el thanks for the reply, NoSquint seems quite useful but unfortunately it does not cover my use case. I have a use case where an external application is able to dynamically set the selected theme at the OS level, that is, set it to High Contrast Black or switch it back to the default Windows 7 Aero theme, so you should assume that i do not have any control over what is happening at the OS level regarding the selected theme, hence cannot "disable a high contrast theme in the Operating System".
I see that some basic UI elements such as the select box arrow handle and radio buttons change immediately, but the overall outlook of the page (e.g. background colors, text colors) do not. Could this be solved with me implementing a Firefox extension which would interface with the system "theme-changed" event and perform a re-rendering of the page at that point? I am currently trying to find some info on this...

High contrast colour flashing

Hi,
   Recently started using W500 (T9600 @ 2.8Ghz, 4gig ram) with Windows 7 64. If I, for instance, connect hardware (eg printer) via usb or if I open various pages in Windows Explorer, my display flashes into what appears to be high contrast or negative. At first I thought it might be a Win 7 thing but've just installed Win 7 on my T61p & that doesn't do it. I'm guessing it's indicative of some kinda fault & wonder if anyone can point me in the right direction?
   Cheers

Hi There,
             Thanx for taking the time.
             Have an idea the problems a graphics thing. With no connections or programmes open, I connect my printer. As soon as I switch it on everything, background picture, desktop, taskbar, etc., flashes a coupla times with lots of grey/silver, dark blue/purple colour ( can't be too sure 'cos I'm colourblind as hell plus it happens real quick.
              I've run System Update 4. All done. Been thru' device manager : all drivers up to date. To be honest I'm rather reluctant to actually start uninstalling them without knowing what I'm likely to disable as my only internet connection's via USB modem - concerned I'd be unable to download replacement software. Especially true re: BIOS. Currently have BIOS 7VET66WW (2.16). Options in Support are varied & I'm not sure which I should use, if any.
              Also, this isn't exclusive to USB use. With nothing connected & nothing running I open 'Computer' from Start menu.
Click on System Properties and off she goes with the flashing. Likewise with navigating thru' Control Panel pages. I've tried updating/ un- & reinstalling ATI drivers but to no avail.
               Dunno if you've any further thoughts? Anything very much appreciated.
               Cheers.

High contrast stuck on 2012 R2

Hi, after reboot the high contrast is on and can´t be turned off, i can change between the different high contrast themes but not turn it off. I have tried the workaround that work on 8.1 but that is not an option on server 2012 because the theme options
is diabled.
Any one?

Hi,
You will need to go to the Control Panel and change your theme.
Please check the similar thread:
Windows 8 High Contrast ON and OFF
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_8-desktop/windows-8-high-contrast-on-and-off/aaf47dd9-10dc-480a-9e2c-256b77abaa07?auth=1
Hope this helps.
Regards.
Vivian Wang

All user profiles have defaulted to High Contrast Theme

This is in an academic, RDP only environment. 3 server 2012 machines, 2 of them are DC's. The two with the problem happen to be the DC's
A student changed his/her theme to High Contrast, for whatever reason, everyones theme was changed, except Administrator. Users connect via NComputing thin clients.
Ive removed the High Contrast theme from Resources/Ease of Access, now new users dont receive the High Contrast theme by default. But existing users still have the High Contrast theme on logon.
Group Policy controls the theme settings but it doesnt seem to have any affect.
Is the High Contrast theme stored in their profile somewhere? NTUSER.DAT ? We have well over 300 users, so it is a chore to do it manually. Id like to find the registry setting that is adding this. It seems odd that only two of the three servers are doing
this. Ive compared registry settings, even imported/exported HKU/.DEFAULT but it doesnt seem to have any affect.

Hi,
Based on my knowledge, the theme does not store in NTUSER.DAT. Please let us know if you use the Microsoft remote desktop client or third party remote desktop clients.
If you third-party ones, I suggest contacting their support first.
In addition, please provide us screenshots for further research.
Thanks.
Jeremy Wu
TechNet Community Support

Higher contrast UI is a PITA

What Adobe genius came up with the higher contrast UI that's now in Ps CS6 on OS X? I'd like to shoot the b*stard!
Today I "downdated" from 13.0.1 to 13.0.5 on OS X. (Not using a Retina display.)
The subtler interface of 13.0.1 and 13.0 was much easier on my eyes and less distracting from the image on which I'm working.
Why is this crap being forced on users who only want some bugs fixed?

conroy wrote:
Yes, that's the same. Maybe I'm oversensitive to stabs in the retina.
Like that white background in your screen grab composite?
I actually AM quite sensitive to bright light, as I seem to be bordering on having a migraine headache quite often (and sometimes way past bordering). The darker UIs have been a real blessing, and I guess the slightly lighter icons / selection colors don't trigger the light sensitivity in me.
But I agree, inasmuch as the background was made adjustable additional control would have been nice to have.
Just for completeness I should note that the leftmost two screen grabs in my image above were made on Windows 8, while the right ones were on Windows 7. I'm not sure that affects the results, but it might (and it also explains why there was a different background showing around the panels).
-Noel

Why does the flash video have much higher contrast when the window is maximized?

When using Mozilla Firefox, any flash videos like those on youtube, when maximized, shows much higher contrast. The video becomes so dark that it is pretty difficult to view it. When zoomed out, everything looks normal.
The work around I ended up using, was to maximize the window using ctrl++ option without using the "fullscreen" button. It is a hassle, but it works. Does anyone know why this happens?
I use Mozilla FF 19.0.2. Btw, this doesn't happen on Chrome or IE.

[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\Colors]
"Window"="0 0 0"
*http://superuser.com/questions/579227/getting-rid-of-white-flash-in-windows-8-high-contrast-mode

Computer won't go out of High Contrast mode! HELP!!

I turned on my new computer's high contrast mode, and now it won't turn off. What can I do to reverse the process! Thanks.

Hi there hrhoffman!: you could reverse it via system restore
if you're running Windows 8 you would have to go to the desktop part of Win 8 then locate the recovery icon from control panel
this is a sub applet of recovery find a button "start system restore" then you see a calendar like page with the month & date
this gives you a listing of all the programs installed on your PC from the earliest time to the present day
all you have to do is pick the latest date you had it in normal mode(unless you set the storage pointer below its default in order to save space)
then follow what you read on your monitor then restart & you should be normal
the only thing you have to do is reinstall any new stuff between today & the earlier date
good luck
hope this helps, enlightens & clarifies it for you
spacechild

Looking for a high-contrast extension for Safari for Windows

First of all,what do we call them - extensions or plugins?
Is there an extension for Safari for Windows for high-contrast? I can't find one anywhere. Windows 7 is set to a HC theme. IE just follows suit. Chrome detected this, ad offered to install a theme.
Don't know why, but I still prefer Safari on my Win7 system. But really need HC. One that just inverts the colors would work, but one with several other options like the Chrome extension would be better.
A Link! A Link! My kingdom for a Link!

Apple has dropped support for Safari on Windows

I use high contrast mode (am visually impaired); just upgraded to 8.0. When I open a new tab, the background does not high contrast, showing white until the page loads. Is there a setting that can be adjusted to fix this, or is this permanent?

I use Windows Vista, and I use the default Alt+Shift+PrtScn high contrast mode for white text on a black background. I only notice when I click a link that opens a new tab or open a tab via the mouse wheel that becomes the main tab. I can't switch tabs fast enough if I click a link that doesn't open as the main tab to tell if the problem persists. The duration of the non-high contrast background is only as long as the page takes to load. There does not seem to be much lag, but the lack of high contrast is painful enough that I have to close my eyes, so I'm not sure. On a related note, the new status information does not high contrast either, making it impossible for me to read.

'''I fixed mine by removing the Ask.com extension.'''
Tools
Add-ons
Settings icon
View Recent Updates
Ask.com '''DISABLE'''
Running FF 8.0 on Windows 7 (64-bit)

High Contrast Controls?

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