High Contrast Mode on iTunes 10

I have low vision and use white on black and magnification apps to use the PC. How do I enable high contrast mode in iTunes 10.4 under Windows? You can do it on a Mac by issuing the "defaults" command to set the high-contrast-mode-enable key to TRUE. is there a Windows equivalent? Or, are there skins availabe for people with low vision who do not use screen readers/ Thanks for your help.

I have got the same question for Windows XP. More generally, most of the apple applications (paje, calandar,contact..) interfaces (itune, icloud) and web pages (forum, support..) have a low contraste or colours that are impossible to change.
Any help would be appreciated...

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High Contrast Mode (VERY URGENT)

(VERY URGENT...)
Hi all ....
I am developing a Java-Swing based application in Win2K and I need to find out whether the user has switched to the high contrast mode on the fly .... Is there any method that can be called to test the high contrast mode in J2sdk1.4 ??
Also... how do I get the new system font and the new system font size in the high contrast mode ???
Can somebody give me a sulution ??? I need it very urgently ....
Thanks a lot...
Ganesh C.N.

I have got the same question for Windows XP. More generally, most of the apple applications (paje, calandar,contact..) interfaces (itune, icloud) and web pages (forum, support..) have a low contraste or colours that are impossible to change.
Any help would be appreciated...

I use high contrast mode (am visually impaired); just upgraded to 8.0. When I open a new tab, the background does not high contrast, showing white until the page loads. Is there a setting that can be adjusted to fix this, or is this permanent?

I use Windows Vista, and I use the default Alt+Shift+PrtScn high contrast mode for white text on a black background. I only notice when I click a link that opens a new tab or open a tab via the mouse wheel that becomes the main tab. I can't switch tabs fast enough if I click a link that doesn't open as the main tab to tell if the problem persists. The duration of the non-high contrast background is only as long as the page takes to load. There does not seem to be much lag, but the lack of high contrast is painful enough that I have to close my eyes, so I'm not sure. On a related note, the new status information does not high contrast either, making it impossible for me to read.

'''I fixed mine by removing the Ask.com extension.'''
Tools
Add-ons
Settings icon
View Recent Updates
Ask.com '''DISABLE'''
Running FF 8.0 on Windows 7 (64-bit)

Amoled, high contrast mode

Does the Helix have an amoled screen? For some reason, when I use the high contrast mode to read white text on a black background, i get eyestrain. On my Windows Phone, which has an amoled screen, the dark theme is actually quite comfortable to read. I was wondering if it was because the screen on the Helix is not amoled.
Also, I understand that the dark theme on the amoled phone conserves battery life. Does the high contrast mode save battery life on the Helix?

it has IPS.
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

Computer won't go out of High Contrast mode! HELP!!

I turned on my new computer's high contrast mode, and now it won't turn off. What can I do to reverse the process! Thanks.

Hi there hrhoffman!: you could reverse it via system restore
if you're running Windows 8 you would have to go to the desktop part of Win 8 then locate the recovery icon from control panel
this is a sub applet of recovery find a button "start system restore" then you see a calendar like page with the month & date
this gives you a listing of all the programs installed on your PC from the earliest time to the present day
all you have to do is pick the latest date you had it in normal mode(unless you set the storage pointer below its default in order to save space)
then follow what you read on your monitor then restart & you should be normal
the only thing you have to do is reinstall any new stuff between today & the earlier date
good luck
hope this helps, enlightens & clarifies it for you
spacechild

Images on a page cause the High-Contrast mode to fail

I have created some very simple two page PDF files, with both Microsoft Word 2013 (using the Acrobat Pro XI PDF Maker) and Adobe InDesign CS6.
When viewing the PDF I set a high contrast colour scheme by going to Edit/Preferences/Accessibility and selecting to "Replace Document Colors" and choosing a high contrast color scheme (such as "Green text on black").
Without an image in the document everything works fine.
However as soon as I place an image on the page, then all I get is a completely black page. The second page without the image displays as expected.
Does ayone know of a workaround for this problem?

The page definately has text on it.
In Word the page consistes of a Heading 1, followed by a few lines of text in a single paragraph. This is repeated on the second page. This works fine without an image, but as soon as a small image (about 200px square) is placed in-line with the text it displays as just a black page when the high contrast scheme is selected. If the background colour is change to something other than black it is as though there is a large rectangle over the entire page, and the underlying text can be seen underneath if it is a lighter colour, but is obscured if black.
Further experimentation seems to indicate that if the image is a JPG image then it works fine, but if the image is a GIF or a PNG image then I get the black page. I was not aware that there was a limitation that prevented these two types of image being used?

When opening email, the message (It looks like your using high contrast mode. Would like to switch to our accessible version to optimize your experience?). How can I change this and just be able to open my email up normally?

I am just trying to get my email to open up normally without the above message coming up every time I open my email.

Make sure that you allow pages to choose their colors and that you haven't enabled High Contrast in the Accessibility settings.
*Tools > Options > Content : Fonts & Colors > Colors : [X] "Allow pages to choose their own colors, instead of my selections above"
*http://kb.mozillazine.org/Website_colors_are_wrong
*http://kb.mozillazine.org/Websites_look_wrong
Clear the cache and the cookies from sites that cause problems.
"Clear the Cache":
*Tools > Options > Advanced > Network > Offline Storage (Cache): "Clear Now"
"Remove Cookies" from sites causing problems:
*Tools > Options > Privacy > Cookies: "Show Cookies"

Trying to use windows in high contrast mode but DW CC goes all black background too and I loose code coloring. I dont mind the black, but code coloring must be essential

Is there a way to keep the code coloring when using windows in high contrast appearance?

Sorry, I don't have your version, but have you checked in your personal configuration folder and editing these files?
https://forums.adobe.com/message/2260994#2260994
CodeColoring.xml
Colors.xml
You can also download color schemes like
http://www.xenon-webdesign.co.uk/dev/dark-code-view-theme-color-scheme-dreamweaver-cs3-sub lime-text-skin/

Will not show web page on windows high contrast

Hi,
Am running Windows 7 64bit
my problem is as follows.
I normally run Windows in high contrast mode and would prefer all web sites to be on the dark side.
Occasionally I need to be able to see a web page as its designers intended it to be.
So I want to have the text white and background black and then the ability to toggle between that and the web page's own colour scheme.
Thought I'd found exactly what I needed in the add-on "Toggle Document Colors 1.0"
Am presuming it toggles the status of the "Allow pages to choose their own colours..." tick box.
This setting seems to get lost when FF closes. Even if I set the tick box myself and then close FF it is gone when I reopen FF.
If the box is ticked and a page refreshed it still does not show web page colours ?
Without any addons at all after a reset and only using the colours dialog I cannot get it to behave.
If you start in Windows white mode (normal) things are better even after FF close. Change to Windows black mode (high contrast) things start off ok then after you close FF it will not work
If there is a solution I would love to know it.
Will settle for a workaround.
Considered using old version of FF, but this is not really a good idea.
Really don't want to go back to IE
in hope ... Bob

iTunes does not yet support Windows 8, so there may not be a fix until such time as Apple releases a version of iTunes that does support 8. You can search this forum for "windows 8", though, and perhaps you'll find a suggestion in one of the other threads on the issue.
Regards.

How do I make Firefox ignore the "Use High Contrast" option in Windows?

I am taking care of a Windows XP machine which is running in "High Contrast Mode" for accessibility reasons. This display mode is enabled via the Control Panel of Windows (Accessibility Options, Display, Use High Contrast) and it has major impact on how Firefox display web pages. What I want to do is make Firefox ''ignore'' this operating system option, so web pages will be rendered "normally", but keep Windows in High Contrast Mode.
Is there any way I can make Firefox ignore this setting? I.e. run Windows in High Contrast Mode, but not Firefox?
A similar questions has been discussed here:
http://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/Website%20colors%20are%20wrong
However, I don't want to disable High Contrast for Windows and the whole machine, just for Firefox.
Thanks in advance
Bounder of Adventure

John,
thanks for your comments. The computer is mainly used by a visually impaired person. She doesn't do much web surfing though and doesn't really need a high contrast web browser. If however a colleague wants to help her maintain the machine or quickly wants to look up something on the web for her, then it would be great if it was possible to access web pages "unfiltered", in their regular look and feel, as designed by the web author. In fact, the High Contrast Mode significantly changes the way web pages look, and sometimes screen elements needed for navigation etc. are suppressed or rendered invisible. (This, of course, is often related to poor web design, like graphical buttons or links with the actual label as a background image or without an ALT attribute, but unfortunately, vast parts of the web are not really "accessible", so accessibility will remain an issue for the browser as well.)
Creating a separate user account certainly is an option, especially for shared machines, but it makes it more complicated to quickly jump in and give her a hand. That's why separate user accounts are not really popular here; instead, Opera was installed which does not adhere to the OS setting and therefore grants a neutral view to all web pages.
Actually, when I started investigating on that issue, I was quite surprised that there was no option for this in Firefox, not even in "about:config". After all, Firefox obviously queries the OS for the Contrast setting and then chooses to render the page this or that way, so I thought they certainly implemented a flag or something to change the behavior. It seems however there is no such flag, is there? This distinction seems to be entirely hard-wired.
I am not sure if this is the place for change requests, but if somebody stumbles upon this question, is there any chance to make this setting open to the public? Something like an option "accessibility.useoscontrastsetting" or so? This might also facilitate it to develop an add-on for on-demand switching between the two modes, and web designers could check more easily how their work looks for those with poor eyesight.
Greetings,
Bounder of Adventure

Can't find high contrast setting

I believe 1.8 preview 2 has a high contrast setting. I can't find it anywhere. Can anyone point me to it? I need to get white text on black.
Thanks

If you want to call it a "night reading mode", sure.
Basically, all I'd be requesting is "Provide high-contrast mode via menu toggle as well as Windows UI hints." This would ideally create the side-effect that it could be disabled by those who normally use high-contrast mode for their apps, but may actually prefer to not use ADE in high-contrast mode.
This is one of those cases where defaults are unlikely to suit everyone and a toggleable would be useful. (On by default if the OS is configured for "high contrast" and off otherwise.)

High contrast when viewing a slideshow

When I look at a photo in full screen mode, it is fine, but as soon as I click on the slideshow, the contrast changes and the pictures all appear in very high contrast, and they look horrible. Does anyone have any idea why this is, and how to fix it? Does anyone else suffer from this problem? This is on a 24" iMac.

Start with this basic fix: trash the com.apple.iPhoto.plist file from the HD/Users/ Your Name / library / preferences folder. (Remember you'll need to reset your User options afterwards. These include minor settings like the window colour and so on. Note: If you've moved your library you'll need to point iPhoto at it again.)
*What's the plist file?*
For new users: Every application on your Mac has an accompanying plist file. It records certain User choices. For instance, in your favourite Word Processor it remembers your choice of Default Font, on your Web Browser is remembers things like your choice of Home Page. It even recalls what windows you had open last if your app allows you to pick up from where you left off last. The iPhoto plist file remembers things like the location of the Library, your choice of background colour, whether you are running a Referenced or Managed Library, what preferences you have for autosplitting events and so on. Trashing the plist file forces the app to generate a new one on the next launch, and this restores things to the Factory Defaults. Hence, if you've changed any of these things you'll need to reset them. If you haven't, then no bother. Trashing the plist file is Mac troubleshooting 101.
Regards
TD

Best lens/settings for outdoor shots (high contrast) with 6D?

I have a 6D I'm just getting started with. When I get a perfect shot (perfect lighting, color saturation, depth of field, etc), I LOVE it! The trouble is, I'm not getting enough of them. Not capturing what my eye sees with good repeatablilty. I have the following lenses for it: The 70-300mm zoom that came with it; a 24-105mm; a 17-40mm ultra wide angle; and a 50mm 1.4 fixed (dumb impulse purchase that I haven't found too useful). I am planning a trip to our tulip festival, and there will be loads of colors and likely high contrast as it will be a mostly sunny day with some clouds. PERFECT, right? Except I find that many times, particularly on my full auto settings, I am not getting the exposures I want! The photos often turn out kinda washed out, without the full saturation I want. And sadly, I'm just not able to compensate for that with the photo editing software I have. As I said, I'm just a beginner and don't want to lug around a manual with me to read while trying to get a good shot, so...anyone have any quick and dirty advice for which of my lenses will be the best to use for distance vs closeup of the flowers, and what settings to use with it? Full auto vs A, AV, or full manual? And if I use full manual, what priority do I want to get the best saturation? Urgh, I hope this isn't too crazy wide-open of a question to be able to get good helpful responses, it's hard to know what to ask. I just want to get some really good, color-rich, good depth and texture photos without a lot of thinking, lol. Thanks! PS-- I'm thinking of selling my 50mm and maybe one of my other ones to get a different one with better ranges. Any suggestions? I tend to do a lot of wildlife and landscapes, if that's any help, and find sometimes that the 300mm doesn't cut it.
Thanks again!

FIrst of all, it takes time to learn how to use a complex camera system well, so don't beat up on yourself a lot or give up on the gear you already have too quickly. Keep taking lots of photos, analyzing them and how you might have made them better. All cameras and lenses have their ideal uses and limits, it's just a matter of learning them and there's no substitute for experience. Get the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and read it, study it, learn it. That's the best single book every semi-serious to serious photographer who wants to improve their skills should read.... Might turn out to be the best $18 you ever spend on your photography.
The various exposure modes each have their uses. I see some people suggest using M (manual) only... but that's slower and limiting and there are times it will prevent you from "getting the shot". Av (aperture priority), Tv (shutter priority) and even P (program) all have their uses. I like to set my camera to M and forget it, but that's really only possible when lighting is very steady and consistent or I have time to carefully set up each shot.
Much of the time I have to use Av or Tv because of variable lighting conditions. This can be because of intermittent clouds changing the intensity of light itself, or because I'm trying to capture shots of a subject that's moving in and out of different lighting. I tend to use Program when I just need a quick shot in different light than I've been working, and don't have time to calculate my exposure and am not very concerned about depth of field (aperture) or freezing or blurring subject movement (shutter speed). All three of these auto exposure modes (as Canon calls them) require experience with and knowledge of how subject tonality effects the camera's reflective metering system and how to use Exposure Compensation to correct for it.
There's a "tool" built right into your camera that can help you learn about the exposure controls and how your choices with them effect your images.... On the top dial there's a "CA" setting, which is a great learning tool that will give you feedback on the LCD screen about your settings. This might take the place of carrying around the manual and consulting it before each shot. Try it!
Personally I don't use the "SCN" or "Green Box/A+" modes, both of which are super auto exposure... That dictate a lot more camera settings than just exposure. These also limit focus modes, file types, color rendition, and more. Av, Tv, P are plenty of automation for me.
A lot of your questions seem to be about lighting. If you ever watch a movie being shot or a pro making still portraits or macro shots, you are likely to see them using some sort of light modifiers.... reflectors to "bounce" more light onto a subject, fill flash to open up shadows, flags to block light, diffusers to reduce contrast and more. Monte Zucker was a master portrait photographer who specialized in available light (no flash) and made use of what he found on location and modifiers such as these... even invented a few of them. These are tools that you might use, or you can learn to look for similarly "ideal" lighting that's naturally occuring and will give you the effects you want. For example, if shooting close-ups and macro shots of flowers, insects and such, I often look for light shade to work in... or pray for a moderately overcast day (all too rare here in Calif.). Same can be done with portraits and many other types of photography.
To get great color in your images, you should get set up for and learn to do a Custom White Balance. This will insure optimal color in a wide variety of situations. Auto White Balance is very usable, especially in full sun. However, shade or indoors/artificial lighting comes in a wide spectrum of colors and can challenge AWB, or you might prefer it be rendered differently than the auto mode will do. There are a bunch of "preset" White Balance you might use - flash, tungsten, shade, etc. - but setting a Custom WB can very often give more accurate results. There are WB targets (usually white or neutral gray) that can be used to quickly set up a Custom WB simply by taking a test shot and telling the camera "this is what you should use" to set WB. There are even "warm cards", which are lightly tinted to cause slight bias toward a little warmer looking image, or in some cases cooler.
Shooting digitally, a lot of what you want to do can be, or might would even be better accomplished in post-processing..., i.e. at your computer at home. Today with digital photography we all are essentially our own "photo labs", too. More to learn, I'm afraid. There are various image editing and optimization softwares, as well as very helpful things like graphics quality computer monitors and calibration devices. It's hard to take your images to their "best" without some additional "development" at your computer. Shoot RAW for the maximum ability to make adjusments to your images in post-processing. This includes the ability to change White Balance quite freely. But a RAW file is sort of like a negative from the days of film... taking the shot is just the first step, the post-processing is necessary and an important part of creating the final image. (Note: Shooting RAW + JPEG is a good learning tool.... once you can make finished images from your RAW files that are better than JPEGs it's producing itself, you can stop shooting JPEGs at all.)
Sorry, but you aren't going to be able to do this "without a lot of thinking"
However, over time you will find that working with your camera and lenses... as well as everything else that's part of the process... becomes easier and eventually a lot of it will be second-nature. You'll need to do a lot of practice and study at first... and may feel overwhelmed at times. But gradually and eventually you'll realize that you know exactly what to do to get the images you want in many different situations. Don't be too quick to change or add more gear, because that just means starting some of the learning process over again.
With respect to wildlife photography, yes a 300mm lens on a 6D may not be enough reach a lot of the time. You have several possible solutions: get a longer focal length lens (Canon 400/5.6L is reasonably priced and quite good, but lacks IS so plan on using a tripod or at least a monopod... Canon 500/4L IS is fantastic, but pretty expensive and quite large... think "tripod only").... Or, get a crop sensor camera (70D for example) to complement your full frame camera. The 300mm will "act like" a longer focal length, when used on a crop sensor camera.
Be warned, though, small wildlife, birds and such, there is no such thing as a "long enough" telephoto. If you have 300mm, you'll want 400mm.... But once you get that 400mm, you'll want a 500mm, etc., etc. Eventually the lenses get very pricey and large, hard to hold steady and even shooting through a lot of atmosphere will reduce image quality. So other solutions you'll probably want to learn inlude stalking skills, use of blinds, calls, decoys, baits to bring subjects closer.
A lot of patience is needed too. There are times the subject is just too far away and all you can do is sit back and enjoy the show, hoping they'll come closer. Sometimes I've spent weeks or even months acclimating animals to allow me to approach close enough to get the shots I want (Canon EF 135/2L lens on Canon 7D)...
Other times I've found locations where the critters are already relatively accustomed to people and will let me get close (EF 300/4 IS USM lens on 7D)...
Hunger sometimes outweighs shyness and fear, too (EF 300/4L IS USM on 7D)...
While some wildlife could care less about you and may even give you repeated opportunities to get a good shot of them (EF 300/4L IS USM lens on 5D MkII)...
Hope this helps!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Healing brush tool at lines of high contrast

I love the healing brush tool but hate how it doesn't work right in the proximity of high contrast areas. It leaves that little light or dark halo. Can anyone tell me why/how/solutions as to why it does this? I know bumping up the hardness works a little but then you might as well use the clone tool. Any thoughts?

I know bumping up the hardness works a little but then you might as well use the clone tool.
There's more to the Healing Brush than that. It blends the surrounding pixels and what you just painted together to create a seamless composition (most of the time anyway) while the Clone Stamp Tool will basically only copy/paste pixels. To get rid of the bleeding effect when using the Healing Brush you have to make a selection that would not include the areas of high contrast. You can also try using the Clone Stamp Tool set to either the Darken or Lighten blend modes to make it blend better with the rest of the composition.

High Contrast Controls?

In 'settings' what does changing 'High Contrast Controls' do?

High Contrast Controls affect how controls in the Photoshop Express camera look. With it enabled, you should see bolder icons when the in camera mode. For example, the zoom slider, flash selector, etc.will look more prominent when viewed against the background of the live camera image. This feature is off by default.
Hope that helps...

High Contrast Mode on iTunes 10

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