High contrast / no shadow detail - Doh!

after spending some time wondering why some images looked so very different on a macbook pro compared to an iMac & messing about calibrating the display etc etc....I found that either butter-fingers or the Cat must've pressed Command-Option-Ctrl-. which activates/increases 'enhance contrast' in Universal Access found in System Preferences.
Depending on the image & screen settings, one step isn't always noticeable right away - the issue was certainly obvious when using Supercal, since the centre color patch in the first calibration steps was err black.
Hey-ho, lesson learnt, maybe it'll help someone else one day?.

Thanks for the info. This might explain some issues others have had with the appearance of their photos.
OT

Similar Messages

Clarity/shadows + distortion correction = terrible artefacts in high contrast areas

common example (clarity and shadows +100):
without distortion correction
with distortion correction
Raw file: nycz.info/temp/castle.dng

The adhoc fix I'm using for images where it's causing problems is to paint out the problem areas with a localised adjustment brush with a very large hit of negative clarity. As most of the problem areas have been pretty small it's an easy fix, but I'd like to see the issue addressed before the final comes out as close examination has shown it up on quite a few images (reflective mike against black stage background, pier edges against a bright but cloudy sky, tree branches against the sky). I've also now set my default to having lens profile distortion off and only using it where I need it.
Edit to add: Unfortunately on the image I'm working on at the moment, it only removes it as long as clarity is set to less than 50 - I need the lens adjustment to get the horizon flat, and I want the clarity, but if I try to have both I'm getting nasty white streaks along the pylons of a pier and it shows at screen size let alone on prints or 100 per cent view. With this particular image any amount of clarity over about 15 and the profile image adjustment is producing ghastly results, visible at small sizes.
Edit again - urggggh. Manual adjustment to level horizons (beach images again) using lens correction plus clarity isn't good either. I've got rather a lot of those and basically can't use any amount of clarity or I start getting areas of light stripes along dark high contrast edges. However if i go to the crop and straighten settings, and straighten there, it's fine.
Edit again: Ok this is an app killer. Back to Lightroom 4.0 (If I can work out how!). Too many of my images are affected, and affected noticeably. What a shame as the defringing in RC2 is absolutely fantastic on long lenses, but this is affecting too much stuff.
I'm getting it on quite a few images I've done nothing to excepted converted them to LR4 - it's very clear on the before/after previews of PV2010 and PV2012. And the edges don't have to be that high contrast - I'm not sure if this screen shot shows it clearly enough but conversion gives a row of little white dashes along the green girder in the attached images Click on images to see them a bit larger- the first image shows small size before and after comparison with problem area highlighted - nothing done except change process PV2010 to PV2012; second image shows PV2012 magnified a bit. Turning off the enable profile corrections button returns image to PV2010 appearance. Removing clarity adjustment will also remove artifacting - in this case it's the clarity that is mucking things up. I can get the same artefacts with clarity on zero and the shadows pushed up above 70. Clarity gives problems at much lower settings.

FLICKER IN HIGH CONTRAST AREAS Premiere CS5.5

Hi,
I am getting video flicker in high contrast areas of my videos. I recently posted up a discussion to get the correct sequence settings and that has worked miracles...
Here are the links to my previous discussions...
http://forums.adobe.com/message/4092910#4092910
http://forums.adobe.com/message/4102131#4102131
Now, my footage is looking great but when I play it back on a TV in DVD format, areas with detail, such as... Details on an Indian wedding dress, trees, backgrounds with distinct dark and light shades all flicker. By he way, I've slowed the footage down to 30%.
I've already read some posts...
http://forums.adobe.com/message/3889344#3889344#3889344
http://forums.adobe.com/message/3808039#3808039
I tried reading others and looking for them but didn't find the problem or resolution specifically.
I have already tried right clicking the footage, going to field options, then clicking flicker removal, but when I play it back the picture is good until the camera pans, and that's when you can see he picture jumping or jittering.
Ot sure if you need these details but here they just incase.
I use windows 7 64
Premiere CS5.5
I read about the temporal smoothing, but also read that it doesn't work in manual mode of the shadow/highlight effect.
Below are some images of my sequence and project settings + clip info

Hi Ann,
I've tried a different TV (2 different TVs) and the results are a a little less flickering but the flickering is still there. I also checked the speed and it was at 45%. I then went ahead and changed the speed duration to 25% and then did another export at 50% speed duration as well. I found that the picture was a little steadier but the flickering in high contrast areas were still the same.
I also did another export with the same settings, 'speed duration' - 45%, 25%, 50% with Flicker Removal in the field options and in the steady shots it was great but if the camera or objects were moving then the picture jumps. Would you have any more suggestions I could try?
Was 45% speeed duration then the wrong speed to choose?

IPhone 4 OS 7.1.2 (11D257) display normal when switching on, turns to very high contrast primary colours only, no tonal graduation. Wifi no longer works.

iPhone 4 OS 7.1.2 (11D257) display normal when switching on, turns to very high contrast with bright primary colours only, no tonal graduation.Initially problem arose every time I switched the Camera on, but has worsened such that any application can cause it. In Camera, after a short time screen goes black. Also, Wifi no longer works.

You're welcome
In case you don't want to buy a new iPhone, Apple will replace the whole unit if you are willing to pay the service fee of 149$ for the iPhone4.
Out-of-warranty repair service
If your repair isn’t covered by Apple’s One Year Limited Warranty, AppleCare+, or AppleCare Protection Plan, your iPhone might be eligible for out-of-warranty service. For example, liquid damage isn’t covered by warranty but might be eligible for out-of-warranty service. Some damage isn’t eligible at all, for example if your device has been broken into multiple pieces. See Apple’s Repair Terms and Conditions for complete details.
Read Apple’s Repair Terms and Conditions
Model
Out-of-warranty service fee
Battery service*
iPhone 6 Plus
$329
$79
*available only if battery
fails Apple’s diagnostic test
iPhone 6
$299
iPhone 5s, iPhone 5c, iPhone 5
$269
iPhone 4s
$199
iPhone 4, iPhone 3GS, iPhone 3G,
Original iPhone
$149
Plus a $6.95 shipping fee, if required. Fees are in USD and exclude local tax. Pricing is for service through Apple. The final service fee we charge will be determined during testing and may be less than the service fee listed above. Pricing and terms vary for service through an Apple Authorized Service Provider.
copied from Service Answer Center - iPhone

Apple 22" cinema display suddenly became high contrast

Suddenly my display became high -contrast (the only way I can explain it) with ragged edges to everything and the type light and fading and with bluish shadows on most of the letters. I've tried changing the resolution -- which "knocked" it right yesterday. Today, however, it's back and doesn't respond to anything I do. Help.

Look in the "Seeing" tab of "Universal Access" system preference and make sure the "Enhance contrast" slider is all the way to the left ("Normal").

Best lens/settings for outdoor shots (high contrast) with 6D?

I have a 6D I'm just getting started with. When I get a perfect shot (perfect lighting, color saturation, depth of field, etc), I LOVE it! The trouble is, I'm not getting enough of them. Not capturing what my eye sees with good repeatablilty. I have the following lenses for it: The 70-300mm zoom that came with it; a 24-105mm; a 17-40mm ultra wide angle; and a 50mm 1.4 fixed (dumb impulse purchase that I haven't found too useful). I am planning a trip to our tulip festival, and there will be loads of colors and likely high contrast as it will be a mostly sunny day with some clouds. PERFECT, right? Except I find that many times, particularly on my full auto settings, I am not getting the exposures I want! The photos often turn out kinda washed out, without the full saturation I want. And sadly, I'm just not able to compensate for that with the photo editing software I have. As I said, I'm just a beginner and don't want to lug around a manual with me to read while trying to get a good shot, so...anyone have any quick and dirty advice for which of my lenses will be the best to use for distance vs closeup of the flowers, and what settings to use with it? Full auto vs A, AV, or full manual? And if I use full manual, what priority do I want to get the best saturation? Urgh, I hope this isn't too crazy wide-open of a question to be able to get good helpful responses, it's hard to know what to ask. I just want to get some really good, color-rich, good depth and texture photos without a lot of thinking, lol. Thanks! PS-- I'm thinking of selling my 50mm and maybe one of my other ones to get a different one with better ranges. Any suggestions? I tend to do a lot of wildlife and landscapes, if that's any help, and find sometimes that the 300mm doesn't cut it.
Thanks again!

FIrst of all, it takes time to learn how to use a complex camera system well, so don't beat up on yourself a lot or give up on the gear you already have too quickly. Keep taking lots of photos, analyzing them and how you might have made them better. All cameras and lenses have their ideal uses and limits, it's just a matter of learning them and there's no substitute for experience. Get the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and read it, study it, learn it. That's the best single book every semi-serious to serious photographer who wants to improve their skills should read.... Might turn out to be the best $18 you ever spend on your photography.
The various exposure modes each have their uses. I see some people suggest using M (manual) only... but that's slower and limiting and there are times it will prevent you from "getting the shot". Av (aperture priority), Tv (shutter priority) and even P (program) all have their uses. I like to set my camera to M and forget it, but that's really only possible when lighting is very steady and consistent or I have time to carefully set up each shot.
Much of the time I have to use Av or Tv because of variable lighting conditions. This can be because of intermittent clouds changing the intensity of light itself, or because I'm trying to capture shots of a subject that's moving in and out of different lighting. I tend to use Program when I just need a quick shot in different light than I've been working, and don't have time to calculate my exposure and am not very concerned about depth of field (aperture) or freezing or blurring subject movement (shutter speed). All three of these auto exposure modes (as Canon calls them) require experience with and knowledge of how subject tonality effects the camera's reflective metering system and how to use Exposure Compensation to correct for it.
There's a "tool" built right into your camera that can help you learn about the exposure controls and how your choices with them effect your images.... On the top dial there's a "CA" setting, which is a great learning tool that will give you feedback on the LCD screen about your settings. This might take the place of carrying around the manual and consulting it before each shot. Try it!
Personally I don't use the "SCN" or "Green Box/A+" modes, both of which are super auto exposure... That dictate a lot more camera settings than just exposure. These also limit focus modes, file types, color rendition, and more. Av, Tv, P are plenty of automation for me.
A lot of your questions seem to be about lighting. If you ever watch a movie being shot or a pro making still portraits or macro shots, you are likely to see them using some sort of light modifiers.... reflectors to "bounce" more light onto a subject, fill flash to open up shadows, flags to block light, diffusers to reduce contrast and more. Monte Zucker was a master portrait photographer who specialized in available light (no flash) and made use of what he found on location and modifiers such as these... even invented a few of them. These are tools that you might use, or you can learn to look for similarly "ideal" lighting that's naturally occuring and will give you the effects you want. For example, if shooting close-ups and macro shots of flowers, insects and such, I often look for light shade to work in... or pray for a moderately overcast day (all too rare here in Calif.). Same can be done with portraits and many other types of photography.
To get great color in your images, you should get set up for and learn to do a Custom White Balance. This will insure optimal color in a wide variety of situations. Auto White Balance is very usable, especially in full sun. However, shade or indoors/artificial lighting comes in a wide spectrum of colors and can challenge AWB, or you might prefer it be rendered differently than the auto mode will do. There are a bunch of "preset" White Balance you might use - flash, tungsten, shade, etc. - but setting a Custom WB can very often give more accurate results. There are WB targets (usually white or neutral gray) that can be used to quickly set up a Custom WB simply by taking a test shot and telling the camera "this is what you should use" to set WB. There are even "warm cards", which are lightly tinted to cause slight bias toward a little warmer looking image, or in some cases cooler.
Shooting digitally, a lot of what you want to do can be, or might would even be better accomplished in post-processing..., i.e. at your computer at home. Today with digital photography we all are essentially our own "photo labs", too. More to learn, I'm afraid. There are various image editing and optimization softwares, as well as very helpful things like graphics quality computer monitors and calibration devices. It's hard to take your images to their "best" without some additional "development" at your computer. Shoot RAW for the maximum ability to make adjusments to your images in post-processing. This includes the ability to change White Balance quite freely. But a RAW file is sort of like a negative from the days of film... taking the shot is just the first step, the post-processing is necessary and an important part of creating the final image. (Note: Shooting RAW + JPEG is a good learning tool.... once you can make finished images from your RAW files that are better than JPEGs it's producing itself, you can stop shooting JPEGs at all.)
Sorry, but you aren't going to be able to do this "without a lot of thinking"
However, over time you will find that working with your camera and lenses... as well as everything else that's part of the process... becomes easier and eventually a lot of it will be second-nature. You'll need to do a lot of practice and study at first... and may feel overwhelmed at times. But gradually and eventually you'll realize that you know exactly what to do to get the images you want in many different situations. Don't be too quick to change or add more gear, because that just means starting some of the learning process over again.
With respect to wildlife photography, yes a 300mm lens on a 6D may not be enough reach a lot of the time. You have several possible solutions: get a longer focal length lens (Canon 400/5.6L is reasonably priced and quite good, but lacks IS so plan on using a tripod or at least a monopod... Canon 500/4L IS is fantastic, but pretty expensive and quite large... think "tripod only").... Or, get a crop sensor camera (70D for example) to complement your full frame camera. The 300mm will "act like" a longer focal length, when used on a crop sensor camera.
Be warned, though, small wildlife, birds and such, there is no such thing as a "long enough" telephoto. If you have 300mm, you'll want 400mm.... But once you get that 400mm, you'll want a 500mm, etc., etc. Eventually the lenses get very pricey and large, hard to hold steady and even shooting through a lot of atmosphere will reduce image quality. So other solutions you'll probably want to learn inlude stalking skills, use of blinds, calls, decoys, baits to bring subjects closer.
A lot of patience is needed too. There are times the subject is just too far away and all you can do is sit back and enjoy the show, hoping they'll come closer. Sometimes I've spent weeks or even months acclimating animals to allow me to approach close enough to get the shots I want (Canon EF 135/2L lens on Canon 7D)...
Other times I've found locations where the critters are already relatively accustomed to people and will let me get close (EF 300/4 IS USM lens on 7D)...
Hunger sometimes outweighs shyness and fear, too (EF 300/4L IS USM on 7D)...
While some wildlife could care less about you and may even give you repeated opportunities to get a good shot of them (EF 300/4L IS USM lens on 5D MkII)...
Hope this helps!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Firefox does not display button and table in High Contrast Theme

When i'm using the high contrast theme in Windows 7, the webpage i'm accessing does not show layouts for tables, textboxes and buttons, whereas while accessing the same page with other browsers (i.e Chrome,IE) I can view them correctly. Please suggest whether it is possible to get the layouts in High contrast theme, if Yes, kindly tell the detailed steps to do that!
TIA

This is an image of what displays for me

When slowly panning , objects or areas with high contrast , flicker / shake

Hello,
I purchased a canon 5d mark3 to use mostly as a video camera. I'm experiencing a very frustrating issue (I'm explaining it in more detail below).
I've been in contact with canon repair facility and tech support for the past 2 months (since I first purchased the camera. I sent the camera for repair already twice and both times I got the camera back after supposedly been “fixed” but the exact same issue is still there… I’m already frustrated and confused about this… I haven't had an answer or a solution as today.
I'm wondering if anybody else is having a similar issue. I did find some people online complaining of a similar problem but most of those pages are a year old or so.
I have been also researching and looking to all kinds of videos (specially at vimeo) where the 5d mark3 it's been used and even in more extreme and faster panning I don't see the same issue I'm experiencing.
Some technicians at canon think it may be an issue with the lens ( 24 - 105 canon lens that comes with the camera).
I did run all kinds of tests etc (even at B&H where I purchased it) with no luck .
Here is a more detail description of the issue:
The problem is that (even with a fluid head tripod) when slowly panning , objects or areas with high contrast , flicker / shake (most noticeable on white objects with daylight over a dark surface). This happens at 24 and 30 fps (not at 60fps) The technician on the phone mentioned that I should use higher shutter speeds (I was using 1/50 for 24fps and 1/60 for 30fps) I did try it with several shutter speeds all the way up to 4000 and the issue is even more noticeable. I tried with and without IS with the same result. I actually probably I already tested all the different settings always with the same results.
I will appreciate any ideas or knowledge on this issue …also I would like to hear from other users with the same problem…
Here I uploaded a few examples:
https://vimeo.com/67316435
https://vimeo.com/67317744
https://vimeo.com/67316436
https://vimeo.com/62621099
Thanks

Ok so really? nobody has nothing to say about it? why? nobody can see the issue? nobody cares? or is just uncomfortable?any canon tech reading the forums?

GPU-version of Gaussian Blur sometimes produces visible ringing artifacts on high contrast images

Hi,
I noticed some annoying ringing artifacts in my footage after applying the GaussianBlur() from the PrSDKGPUImageProcessingSuite.
I assume the blur implementation is the same as in the 'Gaussian Blur' Video Effect. So I tested with that effect standalone and was able reproduce the problem.
The ringing artifacts appear in high contrasted footage (see screenshots) and only with the GPU-version of the blur.
Switching to software-only renderer and therefore enforcing the CPU-version of the effect removes the artifacts.
Has anybody already noticed this issue?
Regards,
Philipp
Gaussian Blur (CPU) without artifacts:
Gaussian Blur (GPU) with artifacts:

The "blocky" details are easily reproduced in that image. Looks like something that needs to be tuned up to me.
Note that you have the option of choosing the 2003 process in Camera Raw, which appears to avoid that issue.
I just want to add one thing: There's no upsampled resolution available for this particular camera. 6048 x 4032 is the largest size available. I for one prefer to convert my raw files directly to upsampled resolutions on the theory that it might improve this kind of thing (and it does seem to deliever more accurate detail with my now out-of-date Canon cameras). At some point in the past I requested that Camera Raw make several upsampled resolutions available beyond the "native" camera size for any/all cameras. I hereby renew that request.
-Noel

Looking for a high-contrast extension for Safari for Windows

First of all,what do we call them - extensions or plugins?
Is there an extension for Safari for Windows for high-contrast? I can't find one anywhere. Windows 7 is set to a HC theme. IE just follows suit. Chrome detected this, ad offered to install a theme.
Don't know why, but I still prefer Safari on my Win7 system. But really need HC. One that just inverts the colors would work, but one with several other options like the Chrome extension would be better.
A Link! A Link! My kingdom for a Link!

Apple has dropped support for Safari on Windows

I use high contrast mode (am visually impaired); just upgraded to 8.0. When I open a new tab, the background does not high contrast, showing white until the page loads. Is there a setting that can be adjusted to fix this, or is this permanent?

I use Windows Vista, and I use the default Alt+Shift+PrtScn high contrast mode for white text on a black background. I only notice when I click a link that opens a new tab or open a tab via the mouse wheel that becomes the main tab. I can't switch tabs fast enough if I click a link that doesn't open as the main tab to tell if the problem persists. The duration of the non-high contrast background is only as long as the page takes to load. There does not seem to be much lag, but the lack of high contrast is painful enough that I have to close my eyes, so I'm not sure. On a related note, the new status information does not high contrast either, making it impossible for me to read.

'''I fixed mine by removing the Ask.com extension.'''
Tools
Add-ons
Settings icon
View Recent Updates
Ask.com '''DISABLE'''
Running FF 8.0 on Windows 7 (64-bit)

After updating to Version 29.0.1, high contrast no longer works.

I use Windows 7's High Contrast frequently (it is much easier on my eyes). After Firefox updated to Version 29.0.1, the browser no longer displayed web pages in high contrast (white text on black background). Is there a way to fix this? (I am now back to using Version 28, which works correctly)

Firefox 28 exposes your system to security vulnerabilities.
* https://www.mozilla.org/security/known-vulnerabilities/firefox.html
You can override website colors under Options → Content → Colors.
* [[Accessibility features in Firefox - Make Firefox and web content work for all users]]
I don't recommend it though. That also hides background images, which some sites use to display information that's essential to navigation. There are two methods that are preferable to the above:
<u>'''Method 1'''</u>
# Install the NoSquint add-on.
#* https://addons.mozilla.org/firefox/addon/nosquint/
# Open the Add-ons Manager (Ctrl+Shift+A; Mac: Command+Shift+A), then the Extensions category.
# Next to the NoSquint entry, click the Options button.
# Click the Colors tab. Check whatever options you're interested and set the colors, but make sure "Disable background images" remains unchecked.
<u>'''Method 2'''</u>
# Install Stylish and restart Firefox when prompted.
#* https://addons.mozilla.org/firefox/addon/stylish/
# Click the ≡ Menu Button and choose Add-ons.
# In the Add-ons Manager, click User Styles on the left.
# Click the Write New Style button at the top. Paste the either of the following styles in the text box, give the style a name, then click the Save button.
#* You can then toggle the style on or off by clicking the Stylish icon on the toolbar.
<pre><nowiki>
@-moz-document url-prefix("http://"), url-prefix("https://") {
/* Dark background and light text. For more color names, see http://www.w3schools.com/HTML/html_colornames.asp */
* { background-color: rgb(20,20,20) !important; color: whitesmoke !important; }
a:link { color: royalblue !important; }
a:visited { color: blue !important; }
a:hover { color: lightblue !important; }
a:active { color: red !important; }
</nowiki></pre>
<pre><nowiki>@-moz-document url-prefix("http://"), url-prefix("https://") {
/* Light background and dark text. For more color names, see http://www.w3schools.com/HTML/html_colornames.asp */
* { background-color: whitesmoke !important; color: rgb(20,20,20) !important; }
a:link { color: royalblue !important; }
a:visited { color: blue !important; }
a:hover { color: dodgerblue !important; }
a:active { color: red !important; }
</nowiki></pre>
If you don't want to install an add-on, you can use the ''userContent.css'' file instead, but I don't recommend it.
* http://kb.mozillazine.org/UserContent.css

How can I change IOS7 to be higher contrast and bolder?

How can I change IOS7 to be higher contrast and bolder? I can hardly read the timer/alarms among other things? I really am not thrilled with the new delicate look and I'm a woman.

Settings > General > Accessibility > Contrast & Bold options found here
You can also increase the text size under accessibility options.

Firefox option "Allow Website to choose their own font/color" fails in High Contrast

On Windows 8.1 and Firefox 32, the option to Allow pages to choose their own colors, instead of my selections above" Fails completely if Windows 8 is using a High Contrast Theme.
Regardless of the Windows Theme, Firefox should allow pages to use their designed colors otherwise problems will exist on a number of sites. Including the Mozilla.org page.
With the Allow Pages... turned on, it should look like this:
http://yosemitelandscapes.com/temp/correct.jpg
Instead the Windows High Contrast is forced upon the web site:
http://yosemitelandscapes.com/temp/incorrect.jpg
For reference Chrome does this correctly which has forced me to switch to the Chrome Browser until a fix is issued for this problem.
NOTE: This is not the same problem people reported where High Contrast did not function in Firefox 29. But I think it may be related to the fix.
I have tried "reverse logic" and turned these options on and off to see if the behavior changed. Pages refreshed and even closed and reloaded. I can find no way to work in High Contrast Themes and allow pages to show up normally in Firefox 32.
I much prefer the security and design of Firefox. Help us please!!!

That's a painful example. I don't have access to Windows 8/8.1 myself, but I suspect this is by design, as I have seen other screenshots from users using high contrast dark themes that did not have background colors and images.
Firefox 32 contains a change from this bug: [https://bugzilla.mozilla.org/show_bug.cgi?id=1042625 Bug 1042625 - Page should be drawn in accordance with the high contrast themes]. The testing (and a comment in the patch) refers to solving a problem on Windows 7, but apparently Windows 8 also was affected.
I don't know whether there is a workaround to tweak what is and isn't displayed in the page with a high contrast theme.

Will not show web page on windows high contrast

Hi,
Am running Windows 7 64bit
my problem is as follows.
I normally run Windows in high contrast mode and would prefer all web sites to be on the dark side.
Occasionally I need to be able to see a web page as its designers intended it to be.
So I want to have the text white and background black and then the ability to toggle between that and the web page's own colour scheme.
Thought I'd found exactly what I needed in the add-on "Toggle Document Colors 1.0"
Am presuming it toggles the status of the "Allow pages to choose their own colours..." tick box.
This setting seems to get lost when FF closes. Even if I set the tick box myself and then close FF it is gone when I reopen FF.
If the box is ticked and a page refreshed it still does not show web page colours ?
Without any addons at all after a reset and only using the colours dialog I cannot get it to behave.
If you start in Windows white mode (normal) things are better even after FF close. Change to Windows black mode (high contrast) things start off ok then after you close FF it will not work
If there is a solution I would love to know it.
Will settle for a workaround.
Considered using old version of FF, but this is not really a good idea.
Really don't want to go back to IE
in hope ... Bob

iTunes does not yet support Windows 8, so there may not be a fix until such time as Apple releases a version of iTunes that does support 8. You can search this forum for "windows 8", though, and perhaps you'll find a suggestion in one of the other threads on the issue.
Regards.

High contrast / no shadow detail - Doh!

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