High current causing noise on thermocouple input spoiling reading.

I have a J-type thermocouple I'm measuring using a PCI-6036E and an SCB-68. The thermocouple is attached directly to a charging/discharging capacitor - once the rms current through this cap reaches above about 80A noise on the thermocouple input causes the temperature reading I'm getting through LabVIEW to sink to below -10000 (which is obviously incorrect). Below about 80A rms it works fine and when I connect the thermocouple to a meter instead of the SCB-68 it works fine. Is there any kind of input buffer I should be using inside the SCB-68 or some kind of software compensation I can perform on the reading?
Thanks!
Neil

Neil-
I'm pretty sure that your inputs aren't isolated. I'm convinced that that is the problem. I've seen this problem with Fieldpoint hardware, and was unable to use it for my project. We are reading thermocouples near 230 amp heaters. I had to use a Yokogawa Darwin unit that has 500V common-mode voltage isolation, which is different than regular isolation. Most analog input devices have a common-mode voltage limit of about 5 volts. Even though your thermocouple may be putting out millivolts, that differential is riding on top of some other voltage that is being induced by your equipment. An averaging filter may make your data look better, but it won't be correct.
If you are only looking at one t/c, you may want to get a signal cond
itioner that converts the temperature reading to a higher level analog.
Brian

Similar Messages

Reduce noise on thermocouple readings on NI PCI-6225

Hello All
I have a problem with what appears to be static electricity induced noise on thermocouples.
We are testing with a sand like medium flowing across a plexiglass window and measuring temperature in the flow. The interaction of the air/sand mixture flowing across the plexiglass creates a significant amount of static and our thermocouple readings are severly impacted. Is there a way to filter the signal so my data and signal analysis tools ignore obvious off-scale readings ?
The filtering i see seems to only apply to high freqency noise. I would like to trim the signals from the TCs to ignore any measurements above 700DegF and below 32Degf.
Thank you
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hi AeroEng,
It might be helpful to see what the current state of your acquisition VI is - just to get an idea of your overall architecture. I can think of a couple of alternatives.
You could do some external signal filtering to get rid of the extra charge on your thermocouple wires - refer to this very helpful White Paper on the topic of Wiring: http://www.ni.com/white-paper/3344/en/
As far as software-defined filtering, you could use the In Range and Coerce function (http://zone.ni.com/reference/en-XX/help/371361J-01/glang/in_range_and_coerce/) on your data and use the boolean output to hide your actual data or simply coerce it to your MAX/MIN values
Hopefully this helps!
Xavier
Applications Engineering Specialist
National Instruments

High pitch whine noise from speakers and other issues

I just got a 2010 Mac Mini and transferred all of my data and apps and accessories from my old Mac Mini which was running 10.6.4 (2007 I think). One of the accessories is a Griffin Firewave. I had to get a new firewire cable to attach the Firewave since the new Mac Mini has a firewire 800 port. On the old Mac it worked great, I was able to run 5.1 speakers with no problem. With the new Mac things aren't so nice. I get a high pitch whine through the speakers. The whine will go up and down in volume with the volume control on my sound system (Klipsch Promedia 5.1 Ultra) as well as with the Mac volume control. I can increase the gain in the Firewave app which will increase the volume of what I want to hear without increasing the volume of the whine, however it will cause the audio I want to hear to distort. The other issue I have is that when I put the Mac to sleep it seems to cut all power to the firewire port, causing the Firewave to turn off and lose its settings. I believe this to be a bad design on the Firewave's part but the old Mac did not shut off the power to the firewire port when going to sleep so this was not an issue. So my questions are, does anyone else have problems with external sound cards having a high pitch whine noise and is there a way to prevent the firewire port from turning off when the Mac sleeps?
BTW, I have tried reinstalling the Firewave driver (several times) and I've unplugged and re-plugged the firewire cable at both ends. I have both the Mac and the sound system plugged into a line conditioner so I doubt it's dirty power. I do realize that the Firewave only claims support up to 10.5 but it was working without issue on the old Mac Mini on 10.6

I have the same problem. I have an early 2009 Mac mini and get the whiny noise from my powered speakers. The volume of the whine noise tends to change smoothly up or down, and often does a stuttering effect along with it. It stays there for up to a minute or so and then eventually goes away. It always seems to happen at random times.
I've heard this same sound effect coming from a podcast that I was listening to on my iPod Touch. It seems that the interviewer was recording from a Mac mini as well, though not sure. The sound in the recording was exactly like what I hear coming from my Mac mini. I often thought that this was a problem with my speaker system, but was surprised to find that others are experiencing the same kind of issues.

How to measure high currents accurately (upto 24A) using FPGA

I need to measure high currents accurately. I have only a FPGA board and TBX 68 terminal block. Do I need any other NI hardware?

The answer will depend on your specific situation, such as the voltage levels you are working with, the source of the current, the influence some additional components such as a shunt resistor may have, etc. Can you provide more details about the application, the source of the current, the voltage levels, how quickly the current will change, the stimulus for a current change, etc.
The most common method to measure a current is to add a shunt resistor in the current loop and measure the voltage across the shunt to calculate the current based on the voltage and resistance. You would need to make sure the absolute voltage levels (relative to the ground of the FPGA board) do not exceed its specifications (+-10V). The value of the shunt will depend on the current and the accuracy you need in the measurement.
If you use a 5 milliohm shunt, then you will have a 0.12V drop across the shunt resistor at 24A. The 7831R has a relative accuracy of about 300uV, this would translate into a relative accuracy of about 61mA for a 5 milliohm shunt (absolute accuracy will be less). If you cannot tolerate a 0.12V drop at 24A, then you will have to use a smaller shunt resistor which will give youless accuracy in the current measurement.
The shunt resistor value will have to be precisely measured ahead of time using a good DMM and a 4-wire resistance measurement. There will be some error associated with this measurement. The resistance will also change due to self-heating as the current through it changes (0.12V * 24A = 2.88W) adding some non-linearity to the measurement.
This is probably the simplest approach. If this setup is not feasible (e.g. the voltage in not within the 7831R input range) then you will need some additional signal conditioning. There are some off-the-shelf components for measuring larger currents that would translate the current into a voltage that you can measure with the FPGA board. Look at the following component as a place to get started.
A closed loop current sensor like the following may work. It runs off a 5 V supply, and is relatively easy to wire up:
http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=US&V=102&M=SCD20PUN
Christian L
NI Consulting Services
Christian Loew, CLA
Principal Systems Engineer, National Instruments
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High Pitch Electrical Noise

My pc has developed that high pitch electrical noise that some other people have mentioned on this forum. I have read in other posts that touching some thorroids can help to identify the source of the noise. Could someone post a picture of the Nforce4 K8n Platinum board identifying these thorroids because I have no clue where they are.
Cheers,
Dubcat.

I have noticed that the noise does not start until i hit the windows xp login screen - what could possibly be causing this? It's doing my head in :(

W510 high pitched whistle noise problem

I must tell that I am very dissapointed of the laptop.
The hard died 2 weeks after I bought it (about month ago)
Still from the beginning I have had that problem with the noise …
W510 makes the high pitched whistle noises, when running on battery power. Very anoying. When the laptop is connected to AC adapter, everythng is ok, the noise is gone.
I'm only wondering, that even notebooks in this price class are not as good as I expected. I think, for 2000 € you can expect a notebook without this noise.
Do you know how to solve this?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

The problem is with the CPU itself. From what I was told by the Lenovo Service Center Singapore, the high pitched is caused by power management, voltage regulator, the Intel Core i processor was designed to be like this.
Although they are documentations being made too by Dell regarding Intel Core i processor high pitched issue, I myself also was disappointed because I have used the machines for 2 months then this problem came out.
The only workaround method is to disable Power Management from BIOS, which disable the cause of high pitched issue, but hurts battery life. You either live or die with it.
Best Regards
Peter
Moderator edit by bananaman: Removed section not in compliance with the Community Rules.

IPod making high pitched buzzing noise

I've had my iPod over two years now, maybe three but it's always worked and hasn't had any problems. The other day I connected it to a cheap second hand Pod station that a friend had been lent. The pod station wouldn't play my iPod and nothing much happened so I resolved that my iPod was just too old to work on it and took it back out again. When I tried to turn on my iPod afterwards it wouldn't do anything so I thought that the battery had probably just been drained out and it would be fine when I took it home and connected it to my computer.
However when I did so the iPod did not appear on the desktop or in iTunes and the screen remained blank. I kept trying but the same would continue to happen and I began to notice that now whenever I plug in the iPod a very high pitched buzzing noise comes from the iPod which scares me a little as it's so unusual. I have tried resetting and pretty much all of the suggested solutions on the apple site and in other discussions but none work. Nothing seems to work and the iPod does absolutely nothing. Is there anything at all that I can do or does this mean that my iPod has simply finally had it?
I wouldn't have thought that just a cheap Pod station would be enough to cause such a major problem with it.
Any help would be very much appreciated please!

If a sad iPod icon or an exclamation point and folder icon appears on your iPod’s screen, or with sounds of clicking or HD whirring, it is usually the sign of a hard drive problem and you have the power to do something about it now. Your silver bullet of resolving your iPod issue – is to restore your iPod to factory settings.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=60983
If you're having trouble, try these steps at different levels one at a time until the issue is resolved. These steps will often whip your iPod back into shape.
Make sure you do all the following “TRYs”
A. Try to wait 30 minutes while iPod is charging.
B. Try another FireWire or USB through Dock Connector cable.
C. Try another FireWire or USB port on your computer .
D. Try to disconnect all devices from your computer's FireWire and USB ports.
E. Try to download and install the latest version of iPod software and iTunes
http://www.apple.com/itunes/download/
For old and other versions of iPod updater for window you can get here
http://www.ipodwizard.net/showthread.php?t=7369
F. Try these five steps (known as the five Rs) and it would conquer most iPod issues.
http://www.apple.com/support/ipod/five_rs/
G. Try to put the iPod into Disk Mode if it fails to appear on the desktop
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93651
If none of these steps address the issue, you may need to go to Intermediate level listed below in logical order. Check from the top of the lists to see if that is what keeping iPod from appearing on your computer in order for doing the Restore.
Intermediate Level
A. Try to connect your iPod with another computer with the iPod updater pre-installed.
B. Still can’t see your iPod, put it in Disk Mode and connect with a computer, instead of doing a Restore on iPod Updater. Go and format the iPod instead.
For Mac computer
1. Open the disk utility, hope your iPod appears there (left hand side), highlight it
2. Go to Tab “Partition”, click either “Delete” or “Partition”, if fails, skip this step and go to 3
3. Go to Tab “Erase” , choose Volume Format as “MAC OS Extended (Journaled), and click Erase, again if fails, skip it and go to 4
4. Same as step 3, but open the “Security Options....” and choose “Zero Out Data” before click Erase. It will take 1 to 2 hours to complete.
5. Eject your iPod and do a Reset
6. Open the iTunes 7 and click “Restore”
For Window computer
Go to folder “My Computer”
Hope you can see your iPod there and right click on the iPod
Choose “Format”. Ensure the settings are at “Default” and that “Quick Format” is not checked
Now select “Format”
Eject your iPod and do a Reset
Open the iTunes 7 and click “Restore”
In case you do not manage to do a “Format” on a window computer, try to use some 3rd party disk utility software, e.g.“HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool”.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=501330&tstart=0
C. Windows users having trouble with their iPods should locate a Mac user. In many cases when an iPod won't show up on a PC that it will show up on the Mac. Then it can be restored. When the PC user returns to his computer the iPod will be recognized by the PC, reformatted for the PC, and usable again. By the way, it works in reverse too. A Mac user often can get his iPod back by connecting it to a PC and restoring it.
Tips
a. It does not matter whether the format is completed or not, the key is to erase (or partly) the corrupted firmware files on the Hard Drive of the iPod. After that, when the iPod re-connected with a computer, it will be recognized as an fresh external hard drive, it will show up on the iTunes 7.
b. It is not a difficult issue for a Mac user to find a window base computer, for a PC user, if they can’t find any Mac user, they can go to a nearest Apple Shop for a favor.
c. You may need to switch around the PC and Mac, try to do several attempts between “Format” and “Restore”
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2364921&#2364921
Advance Level
A. Diagnostic mode solution
If you have tried trouble shooting your iPod to no avail after all the steps above, chances are your iPod has a hardware problem. The iPod's built-in Diagnostic Mode is a quick and easy way to determine if you have a "bad" iPod.
You need to restart your iPod before putting it into Diagnostic Mode. Check that your hold switch is off by sliding the switch away from the headphone jack. Toggle it on and off to be safe.
Press and hold the following combination of buttons simultaneously for approximately 10 seconds to reset the iPod.
iPod 1G to 3G: "Menu" and "Play/Pause"
iPod 4G+ (includes Photo, Nano, Video, and Mini): "Menu" and "Select"
The Apple logo will appear and you should feel the hard drive spinning up. Press and hold the following sequence of buttons:
iPod 1G to 3G: "REW", "FFW" and "Select"
iPod 4G+ (includes Photo, Nano, Video, and Mini): "Back" and "Select"
You will hear an audible chirp sound (3G models and higher) and the Apple logo should appear backwards. You are now in Diagnostic Mode. Navigate the list of tests using "REW" and "FFW". The scroll wheel will not function while in diagnostic mode. For further details on Diagnostic mode can be found at http://www.methodshop.com/mp3/ipodsupport/diagnosticmode/
Try to do the 5in1, HDD R/W and HDD scan tests. Some successful cases have been reported after the running the few tests under the Diagnostic mode. In case it does not work in your case, and the scan tests reports show some errors then it proves your iPod has a hardware problem and it needs a repairing service.
B. Format your iPod with a start disk
I have not tried this solution myself, I heard that there were few successful cases that the users managed to get their iPod (you must put your iPod in disk mode before connecting with a computer) mounted by the computer, which was booted by a system startup disk. For Mac, you can use the Disk Utility (on the Tiger OS system disk), for PC user, you can use the window OS system disk. Try to find a way to reformat your iPod, again it does not matter which format (FAT32, NTFS or HFS+) you choose, the key is to erase the corrupted system files on the iPod. Then eject your iPod and do a Reset to switch out from Disk Mode. Reboot your computer at the normal way, connect your iPod back with it, open the iPod updater, and hopefully your iPod will appear there for the Restore.
If none of these steps address the issue, your iPod may need to be repaired.
Consider setting up a mail-in repair for your iPod http://depot.info.apple.com/ipod/
Or visit your local Apple Retail Store http://www.apple.com/retail/
In case your iPod is no longer covered by the warranty and you want to find a second repairing company, you can try iPodResQ or ifixit at your own risk
http://www.ipodresq.com/index.php
http://www.ifixit.com/
http://www.rapidrepair.com/shop/g4-ipod-parts.html
Just in case that you are at the following situation
Your iPod warranty is expired
You don’t want to pay any service charges
You are prepared to buy a new one
You can’t accept the re-sell value of your broken iPod
Rather than leave your iPod as paper-weight or throw it away.
You can try the following, but again, only do it as your last resort and at your own risk.
Warning !!!! – It may or may not manage to solve your problem, and with a risk that you may further damage your iPod, which end up as an expensive paper weight or you need to pay more higher repairing cost. Therefore, please re-consider again whether you want to try the next level
Last Resort Level
1. . Disconnecting the Hard Drive and battery inside the iPod – Warning !! Your iPod warranty will be waived once you open the iPod.
In Hong Kong there are some electronic shops offering an iPod service for Sad iPod, the first thing they do is to open up the iPod’s case and disconnecting the battery and the Hard Drive from the main board of the iPod. Wait for 5-10 minutes and reconnecting them back. The reason behind which I can think of is to do a fully reset of a processor of the iPod. In case you want do it itself and you believe that you are good on fixing the electronics devices and have experience to deal with small bits of electronic parts, then you can read the following of how to open the iPod case for battery and HDD replacement (with Quicktimes)
http://eshop.macsales.com/tech_center/index.cfm?page=Video/directory.html
2.Press the reset button on the Hard Drive inside the iPod – Suggestion from Kill8joy
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2438774#2438774
Have I tried these myself? No, I am afraid to do it myself as I am squeamish about tinkering inside electronic devices, I have few experiences that either I broke the parts (which are normally tiny or fragile) or failed to put the parts back to the main case. Therefore, I agree with suggestion to have it fixed by a Pro.
2. Do a search on Google and some topics on this discussion forum about “Sad iPod”
Exclamation point and folder and nothing else
Spank your iPod
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ljPhrFUaOY
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3597173#3597173
Exclamation point and folder and nothing else
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2831962#2831962
What should I do with my iPod? Send it or keep it?
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=469080&tstart=0
Strange error on iPod (probably death)
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=435160&start=0&tstart=0
Sad Face on iPod for no apparent reason
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=336342&start=0&tstart=0
Meeting the Sad iPod icon
http://askpang.typepad.com/relevanthistory/2004/11/meeting_thesad.html#comment-10519524
Sad faced iPod, but my computer won’t recognize it?
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2236095#2236095
iPod Photo: unhappy icon + warranty question
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2233746#2233746
4th Gen iPod Users - are we all having the same problem?
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=2235623#2235623
Low Battery, and clicking sounds
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2237714#2237714
Sad faced iPod, but my computer won’t recognize it
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2242018#2242018
Sad iPod solution
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=412033&tstart=0
Re: try to restore ipod and it says "can't mount ipod"
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=443659&tstart=30
iPod making clicking noise and is frozen
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2420150#2420150
Cant put it into disk mode
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3786084#3786084
I think my iPod just died its final death
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3813051
Apple logo & monochrome battery stay
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=3827167#3827167
My iPod ism’t resetting and isn’t being read by my computer
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=4489387#4489387
I am not suggesting that you should follow as well, but just read them as your reference. You are the person to make the call.
Finally, I read a fair comments from dwb, regarding of slapping the back of the iPod multiple times
Quote “This has been discussed numerous times as a 'fix'. It does work, at least for a while. In fact I remember using the same basic trick to revive Seagate and Quantam drives back in the mid to late 1980's. Why these tiny hard drives go bad I don't know - could be the actuator gets stuck in place or misaligned. Could be the platter gets stuck or the motor gets stuck. 'Stiction' was a problem for drives back in the 80's. Unfortunately the fix can cause damage to the platter so we temporarily fix one problem by creating another. But I know of two instances where a little slap onto the table revived the iPods and they are still worked a year or more later.”UnQuote

Upgraded to IO6, seems like the amount of system memory to run is higher, this causes issues with some Apps. I can't get SIRI to work because the amount of free system memory is not enough. how can I tell what is eating the system memory?

Upgraded to IO6, seems like the amount of system memory to run is higher, this causes issues with some Apps. I can't get SIRI to work because the amount of free system memory is not enough. how can I tell what is eating the system memory?

Upgraded to IO6, seems like the amount of system memory to run is higher, this causes issues with some Apps. I can't get SIRI to work because the amount of free system memory is not enough. how can I tell what is eating the system memory?

Do we have Digital to Analog converter with high current output?

Do we have Digital to Analog converter with high current output? I need 8 channels and each channel has at least 100mA current output.Thanks!

I have never heard of such a device. You will probably need to follow the D/A with an amplifer for each channel.
What is the voltage range and speed required? Any special protection requirements (such as current limiting)?
Lynn

GTX 560Ti Hawk high temperature and noise

First of all I want to say "Hi" because this is my first post here!
Second, I have problems with my GTX 560Ti Hawk! The problems are high temperature and very loud fans! I bought this card less than a month ago and it didn't work properly from the first day but I wanted to give it a chance so I kept it for a while so I could monitor symptoms. I haven't even tried to OC it. I monitored it the way it came from the box.
In idle card doesn't go over 40°C which is fine by me considering the weather but when I play games it goes all the way to 85°C and it's loud as jet taking off! It's is pretty much intolerable to be near this card when playing games! This product is advertised to be very cold and very silent but now that isn't the case. What bothers me most is that the card was running on open bench table which has very good air cooling ( I made it myself and decreased ~10°C compared to my case). That means that my Hawk would have burned if tested inside the case, or it would fly away!! :D
Everything is good until card hits 76°C - that's tolerable temperature and the card is still silent, but when it hits 76°C and goes up, all hell breaks loose!
Card doesn't crash and it runs perfectly (got performance increase ~30% from my GTX 460) but way higher temperatures and noise above advertised makes me wanting to crash it with a sledgehammer! :D
I RMA it today and waiting for answer which should arrive in two weeks tops (quick when taking money but very slow when support is needed)
I wanted to ask if RMA is even possible when card isn't crashing??? I RMA cards with similar problems before with no problems but that was Gigabyte - not sure what can I expect with MSI because this is my first MSI product since 2003. RMA should be possible because card has failed to fulfill expectations which are guarantied by MSI...
If they refuse to send another card or return the money, what should I do???
Computer specs:
AMD Phenom 2 X4 955BE
Gigabyte GA-790XTA-UD4
2x2 GB DDR3 Mushkin Blackline Stiletto
MSI GTX 560Ti Hawk (previously owned Gigabyte GTX 460 768MB which never went above 65°C even highly OC-ed)
Seasonic 620-GM
Patriot Pyro 60GB and WD 640GB Green
Thank you!

This is a user to user forum. Everyone here are users just like you. If and when someone is able to respond to your post, they will. There is no obligation by any individual to do so. Its a matter of having a bit of patience. If you don't have that patience, then please don't take it out on the online population of this world at large. If the community members were paid to address problems, then that would be a different story. But thats not how it is.
>>Please read and comply with the Forum Rules.<<
You are welcome to contact MSI technical instead. >>How to contact MSI.<<
seeing that you decided to give up before having any responses.
You are still welcome to open a new topic if you so wish, with a less antagonistic approach.

High pitch fan noise

my 560 hawk is now making a high pitch fan noise. It has'nt done this before, It generally doese this around 68 to 72 percent. Not at any other time. Has anyone else had this problem?

when I just run afterburner and run the fan speed to 72 percent it makes the frequency noise. Its not under any load and may be normal I just wonder if anyone else had this too.. Its barely noticable. I just noticed it and I've had the card for a few weeks.lol

High pitched squeal noise and low end rumble RME Fireface 800 Macbook pro 2011

Hi there,
I just updated Mac OSX Snow Leopard and my Fireface 800 has started emitting a high pitched squealing noise when turned on and connected via Firewire 800 cable.
Also my 17" Macbook pro requested a hard reset last week for the first time, after this problem began.
When my subwoofer is connected, a low end rumble is emitted at the same time as the squeal, and persists until turned off and on again.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Robin

Hi there,
I just updated Mac OSX Snow Leopard and my Fireface 800 has started emitting a high pitched squealing noise when turned on and connected via Firewire 800 cable.
Also my 17" Macbook pro requested a hard reset last week for the first time, after this problem began.
When my subwoofer is connected, a low end rumble is emitted at the same time as the squeal, and persists until turned off and on again.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Robin

High pitched beeping noise

I have recently purchased a 60 gig iPod and whenever I try to listen to music or watch a video that I did not purchase from iTunes a very loud, very high pitched beeping noise accompanies it and pretty much drowns out the rest of my music. The beeping is incesant and does not stop throughout the whole track. This did not happen with the iPod nano that I used to own and it only happens on music that I did not purchase on iTunes or did not transfer via cd. I have had most of this music on my computer for a very long time. Is there a way to fix this without burning over 500 songs to cd. If so please tell me, it would be greatly appreciated.
Windows XP

you are the second person to tell me that it's a hard drive problem. i'm starting to think that that is the problem. it really hasn't done that with other programs, but it does very rarely. i have the upgraded hard drive for the macbook pro. if i were to have it replaced, would it cost a lot? i'm still in the one-year warranty by about 20 days. do i just take it to an apple store and they will fix it?

High pitch squealing noise

After printer sits idle for awhile there is a high pitched squealing noise. At first you don't notice it and then it becomes so annoying as a light background noise I have to turn off the printer until I need it again.

Hello Bernina,
Welcome to the HP Forums.
Typically when a printer makes any kind of unusual noise, it has to do with a power issue or a lack there of.
Please make sure that you have the printer power cable connected directly to a wall outlet and not a power bar/strip. Here is a document that uses a LaserJet printer as an example but it is meant for HP products in general. Please click on the following link that explains the Issues when Connected to an Uninterruptible Power Supply/Power Strip/Surge Protector.
If the troubleshooting does not help resolve your issue, I would then suggest calling HP's Technical Support to see about further options for you. If you are calling within North America, the number is 1-800-474-6836 and for all other regions, click here: click here.
Thanks for your time.
Cheers,
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" at the bottom of this post to say “Thanks” for helping!
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
W a t e r b o y 71
I work on behalf of HP

Pre has a high pitched ringing noise while on touchstone

Every time I set my Pre on the touchstone, the second it starts charging it has this high pitched ringing noise, like the kind older people lose the ability to hear. Is there any way I can get this to quit?
Post relates to: Pre p100eww (Sprint)

Same problem here. At first I thought it was the touchstone, but it seems like it is coming straight from the Pre. Turning down the volume on the speaker does nothing. Turning up the volume works though - when you are playing music! ;-)

High current causing noise on thermocouple input spoiling reading.

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