High Res Logic Board Removal

I am removing the logic board from my 1.67 Ghz Dual Layer PowerBook, so that I can replace the DC in board. I've noticed as I am attempting to remove it that there is quite a bit of resistance, and there appears to be a cable attached to the underside of the logic board that is not mentioned in the iFixIt guide. (not the DC in cable, not the battery cable) I have not been able to figure out how to remove it from the board. Can anyone offer any assistance?

Hi, Moonhawk. In your shoes, I would telephone iFixit for help. If their instructions are incomplete or unclear, I'm sure they will be glad to explain whatever you need explained, and they may be glad to know how their guide could be improved. I haven't personally performed the disassembly you're attempting on a DVI Tibook, and with my own Tibook still under its extended AppleCare until next January, I'm not inclined to take it apart to see what you're talking about. Good luck!

Similar Messages

  • Titanium PowerBook G4 (DVI) Logic Board Removal

    I am in the process of taking apart my Titanium PB G4 (DVI) in order to remove the broken LCD display. I followed the instructions on ifixit.com:
    http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/33.15.0.html
    But I came across a snag with a part unaccounted for in the instructions. The bottom PCMCIA card cage (the one for AirPort card and the one that is attached to the logic board) is actually attached by a metal bracket to the top PCMCIA card cage. So, I am unable to remove the logic board and am stuck at the last part of this step:
    http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/33.15.12.html
    I do not see any clear ways of detaching the two PC card cages. If anyone has tips on how to proceed, I would really appreciate it.
    MacBook Core Duo / iMac G5 (iSight)   Mac OS X (10.4.6)  

    Hi, Moonhawk. In your shoes, I would telephone iFixit for help. If their instructions are incomplete or unclear, I'm sure they will be glad to explain whatever you need explained, and they may be glad to know how their guide could be improved. I haven't personally performed the disassembly you're attempting on a DVI Tibook, and with my own Tibook still under its extended AppleCare until next January, I'm not inclined to take it apart to see what you're talking about. Good luck!

  • Upgrading logic boards

    ok know that this question has been asked several times but it mostly dealt with the AL pb's. i have a dvi TI @ 867 and i was told that there is a higher one (logic board) then the one i am currently using. what is it? also is it possible to cross over from the TI dvi to an entry level (if there is a such thing) AL pb? is that even possible and and where does one acquire a list of all the pb g4 series? i had just found out there there are several levels just within the TI series (sorry i am a little slow on the uptake...). personally i am struggling with the way the PB are laid out in terms of release dates and specs
    -rastlin

    Download and install MacTracker, an application that contains a complete database of specifications for every Mac model ever released.
    http://mactracker.dreamhosters.com/
    The only logic board upgrade that can be applied to your 867MHz is to replace its logic board with one from a 1GHz Tibook of the same final Ti generation. The speed boost is almost trivial. The difference between 32MB of VRAM on the 867MHz board and 64MB on the faster board might be significant, but not as significant as it was when these machines were current. On the whole, I'd say the upgrade isn't worthwhile at this point.

  • The cable between the logic board and the 3G board  was removed can I convert it to a Wifi only?

    I have a Ipad 2 3g. someone detached the cable between the logic board and the 3G board can I convert it to a Wifi only?

    The ipads that have 3g have an extra section attached to the logic board by a glued on wire. I bought this at a tag sale. Someone was apparently trying to repair their iPad and they did not know that when you removed that glued strip attaching the 3g antenna to the logic board you would never be able to re-atach it again later. So basicaly my 3g logic board is now in two pieces. the main logic board with wifi and the cdma 3g antenna. Now their is no differnce between the logic boards in either wifi only or wifi and 3g devices. I attempted to restore the device with the ios for wifi only, because there are 3 different ios versions depending on if you have wifi only wifi 3g with SIM card, or wifi 3g cdma.

  • G5 2.3ghz power supply removal? Do I need to remove Logic board 1st?

    Power supply partially expired on my 2.3GHz G5. Have found a donor. Manual says remove logic board before power supply. But you could remove power supply with board in situ on older G5s...........any ideas?

    I've heard of some trying, possibly succeeding.
    However, I wouldn't want a damaged logic board with my new PSU........

  • I havea 2007Mac Book Pro and a Genius told me that it is "vintage" and that the "logic board" is bad.  He removed the hard drive and told me to buy a "sled" to retreive the data.  Is it worth trying to fix it so that I don't have to buy a new one?

    I have a 2007 Mac Book Pro and a Genius told me that it is "vintage" and that the "logic board" is bad and no longer supported.  He removed the hard drive and told me to buy a "sled" to retreive the data.  Is it worth trying to fix it so that I don't have to buy a new one?  Where should I take it?  Thanks.

    djgornik,
    if the Genius is correct and the logic board is bad, then replacing the logic board would be fairly expensive. What problems are you seeing with your MacBook Pro that caused you to visit the Genius in the first place? Whether it’s worth trying to fix it or not depends on your particular circumstances, such as your willingness to trade time for money in pursuing repair vs. replacement.

  • 2010 MBP 13.3 Lags and Fan on High Logic Board?

    Hello Everyone,
    I recently was given a 2010 Macbook Pro 2.4 13.3.  When I got it the computer lagged really bad, and the fan is stuck on high.  With that and the backlight for the keyboard not lit, I suspected the logic board but when I went to disk utility I could not see the hard drive and it would not show any partitions.  I replaced the hard drive and booted the computer in internet recovery and the same thing happens, when it is on during internet recovery, when you are selecting the wireless router the mouse works great and it is super fast, but as soon as it begins to load and start the internet recovery it starts lagging really bad. 
    One weird thing I noticed that its doing was during one of the installation process the fans slowed down to normal for about 30 seconds. During this time the mouse did not lag and the thing was moving quite quickly.  But every time I attempt to reinstall OSX it says it was not able to install the program because of a missing file, and quits. 
    So no I can't reinstall anything. the keyboard light is out and the fans on high.  I tried SMC reset and NVRAM and neither made a difference.  So I took the logic board out, cleaned it super good, shows no signs of liquid damage or corrosion.  Reinstalled and still the same issues.
    I guess the long story question here is do you think its a logic board going bad?  I am going to try and reboot with an individual stick of ram to see if that makes a difference but I feel the combination of the lights out and the fan on high tends to make me think that the board is not happy.
    Any thoughts,  and if you think its a board, any suggestions where to repair or replace for the best price.  For a free MBP I am not afraid to spend a few bucks to add this to my arsenal of macs.
    Thanks
    Keith

    2010 shipped with 2 DVD.  The AHT is one one of those DVD.  Boot off the DVD by holding the c key.
    from the link above-
    Using Apple Hardware Test on computers with OS X 10.5.5 to 10.6.7
    AHT is located on the Applications Install Disc 2 and should be included with your computer or the MacBook Air Software Reinstall Drive on a MacBook Air (Late 2010). To start AHT on these computers make sure the Applications Install Disc 2 is inserted into the built-in optical drive, external Apple Superdrive, or for the MacBook Air (Late 2010) be sure the MacBook Air Software Reinstall Drive is inserted into a USB port. Please then follow steps 1-6 outlined in the "Using Apple Hardware Test on computers with OS X 10.7 or later" section of this article.

  • Multiple Logic Board Failures... Advice?

    My black MacBook is less than two years old. Starting this past January, I have had a total of three logic boards fail, along with other hardware failures, including the SuperDrive and Keyboard/Trackpad Module.
    Every time the board fails, it is because of a different problem than the last time. First, a connection wire was faulty, causing the Super Drive to be replaced as well. The second time I don't know what was wrong with it, but it was replaced along with the Keyboard/Trackpad Module. This last time, the Speaker/Headphone connections were stuck, which again, caused the Geniuses to replace the Logic Board. The LCD screen was also replaced, but because of dead pixels. Also the hard drive quit working (thank god for backups). I am now on my 4th Logic Board in less than 6 months.
    My computer is still covered by AppleCare for another year and a half, but the repeated servicing and re-registering programs is getting a bit ridiculous. Not to mention, if this keeps happening after the warranty runs out, it will be very expensive. I have no money to buy a new computer. The only reason I have this one is because I got it for my 18th birthday from my family.
    Is there anything that I and/or Apple can do in this case?

    Many things can cause a logic board to fail, from environmental problems to a run of defective parts used in the manufacture of a particular batch of boards. What you can do to help prevent problems are:
    1) avoid giving your system (or any electronic device or component) any sort of static shock. Static electricity can easily damage solid-state devices. If in the area in which you have your computer you're regularly getting shocks when you touch metal or grounded devices, you need to take steps to reduce the static electricity buildup.
    2) make sure you're properly grounded whenever you access the internals of the system, such as to remove or install RAM or hard drives, and install only quality components verified as compatible with your computer.
    3) use high-quality power protection devices on the AC power to your computer and any connected devices (printers, scanners, networked devices, etc.) The $10 "hardware store special" surge protectors generally do more harm than good; get high-quality surge protectors or, better, a power conditioner or uninterruptible power supply with good power filtering.
    Beyond that, it's rather the luck of the draw. But MacBooks in general have as good a track record of reliability as any laptop and better than many.
    Regards.

  • Which logic board do I need?

    I need to buy a replacement logic board for a PowerBook G4 15"...what are the specs for which one I should buy?
    My laptop's Model Number is UJ-825-C and Serial Number is W84424JFQHY.
    Know where I can get a cheap logic board?

    UJ825C should be the number of the DVD drive. If you click the blue apple and about this mac, that will tell you what the processor speed is. If it's a 1.67Ghz system, click more info, and memory, and if it says DDR2 memory (versus DDR) then you have the last model of the Powerbook, sometimes referred to as high res or high resolution for it's video (and the other 1.67Ghz system, with DDR memory are sometimes referred to as low resolution). Some boards may have a choice of 64MB or 128MB of video memory.
    There are several vendors that sell used logic boards, two of which are http://www.ifixit.com and http://www.pbparts.com .

  • Is there a difference between G3 B&W rev 2 logic boards?

    I have a G3 B&W 450 mhz. The logic board went bad, I had to open the case and hit the reset button every time I turned it on. I bought at replacement rev 2 logic board (comes without a processor). I installed my 450 processor into the new logic board and now System Profiler is listing my unit as a 300 mhz model. I looked up the specs and bus speed is showing as 100 mhz on 300-450 mhz G3s. The logic boards are both rev 2. Do I need to do something else? Or did I get the wrong board? Is my only solution to replace the logic board yet again?

    Welcome to the Apple user-to-User discussions!
    I had to open the case and hit the reset button every time I turned it on.
    That is an indication that the US$8 battery is dead. If it fired up after hitting the button, the logic board you had was fine.
    I installed my 450 processor into the new logic board and now System Profiler is listing my unit as a 300 mhz model.
    The clock to the processor is set with an about 10-position jumper block near the processor socket, under a label warning you that the \[generous 1-year] warranty is void if you remove this label.
    If you kept the jumper block that came with the new board, that is not good news, as almost all 300 MHz models were Rev 1, and have issues with drives larger than about 40 GB.
    When you put in a 450 jumper block or discrete jumpers, The processor in the socket is clocked at higher speed.

  • Logic board can you fix it you'r self or do it for less than $200

    help in i need the logic board fixed for less than $200

    I've had the logic board in my MBP 3,1 replaced twice, both covered by AppleCare. The first one was a failure which was video related, but they swore it wasn't the NVidia failure. That was almost a year ago at the end of December 2009.
    The most recent logic board replacement was due to a repair tech error. I had my LCD replaced because of backlight issues and the Apple Care was within 4-5 weeks of expiring (at the end of July/early August 2010). The tech accidentally replaced the 1920x1200 LCD with a 1680x1050 one, and then they had to order the correct one as a replacement, so I had to use it with the wrong LCD. When the correct one came in, the inverter on the logic board had adjusted itself to the lower power of the 1680x1050 LCD and wouldn't power the higher res LCD properly, so they had to replace the logic board again to get it working right. ranted, that last one would have been an Apple expense had it not still been under Apple Care, since it was their error that caused the problem.
    Having stated that, if your MBP only has a 1680x1050 display (or lower) you might be able to get a working logic board from someone who had the same issue as I did in August. Of course, according to the documentation I got from Apple on my repairs, the cost of the replacement logic board for my system was about $1200, so it is a bit above the $200 limit you are setting, and based on the cost I was informed, I doubt you will find a working one in your price range...

  • Logic Board Problem on 1.2Ghz G4 iBook?

    My G4 iBook (14inch, 1.2 Ghz) has been giving me problems in the last two weeks.
    At first I thought it had something to do with the latest update to OS X 10.4.11, but after doing an archive and install and checking things out with Disk Warrior, I'm thinking it's the logic board.
    The main problem is that the machine has a tendency to freeze while I'm working with it. Sometimes it happens when I'm just doing work with Word or Appleworks. Sometimes it happens when I'm trying to access an electronic gradebook where I teach. It DEFINITELY freezes when I attempt to pick up the machine from the lower left corner where the hard drive is located.
    I thought it might be a hard drive issue, so I actually replaced it, but the problem of freezing remains.
    The freezing is weird, however. What happens is that the cursor can move around on the screen, but that's all that works. I can't access any menus or anything on the dock. At times the dock will freeze in middle of enlarging as the cursor passes over it.
    After doing some research, it seems that this might be a logic board issue.
    My machine isn't under warranty since I bought it secondhand off eBay and I've been using it quite a bit for the last year with no problems whatsoever. Is there a fix to this or am I going to have to replace the logic board? I'm seeing prices that are running in the $350 - $500 range.

    Actually, there are a couple of things you can do that cost a lot less than a new logic board.
    First of all, run the Apple Hardware Test to verify that all of your chips are OK. They probably are.
    What is probably wrong is that the ball grid arrays that holds the chips to the logic board have started to fail. This will cause freezing, particularly as the board heats up.
    The cheapest thing to do is to make and install some home made shims which press on the chips and enable them to make better contact with the logic board. Here is a site which shows how to do this:
    ibookG4 logic board fix:
    http://www.coreyarnold.org/ibook/
    However, there is also a more permanent solution, which is to send the logic board to a specialist to be reballed. I did this recently, and I can highly recommend the following specialist:
    http://www.superiorreball.com/
    The cost to reball my iBook logic board was just $75.
    You will have to remove the logic board and send it off, but since you already replaced the hard drive, you probably are already familiar with the ifixit site.
    Good luck!

  • How's your Mid 2010 MacBook Pro doing after changing logic board due to BSoD?

    After this very long discussion:
    https://discussions.apple.com/message/15665312#15665312
    In which a lot of people had BSoD problems after upgrading to Lion, and then have solved the issue by having the logic board replaced, I'd like to ask, specially for those who have done it earlier, a few months ago or so: did you have any problem with your 2010 MacBook Pro 15" since then?
    I'd like to know it because, by reading that thread, I have reasons to believe that the problem may arise again after some time.
    I had the same issue with my MBP, but I'm still on Snow Leopard. I had the logic board replaced more than once (actually 3 times), and everything is ok since then.
    Now I've been pushed to upgrade to Lion so that I can continue using iCloud. So i'd like to know what are my chances of going into that nightmare again.
    Any info will be appreciated.

    Greetings,
    I've never heard of this issue - I have two MBP Mid 2010, and both are running Lion with all updates, and there are no issues of any kind. One of the graphic shops I work with has 15 Mid 2010 MBP, all running Lion, and there are no isues with them.
    We use a lot of high end software, but no games, of course, just business and graphics apps. There have been no issues with Mail, Calendars, Addressbooks, etc, except for wanting a few more features, here and there,
    which we will get in time.
    Bad apps are the usual culprit, when there are problems with Macs, and they are not always easy to locate, so I just reload from scratch, and thet will usualy fix a lot of ills, if the normal troubleshooting tools don't resolve the problem. Fortunately we have had very very few issues with our Macs going back to the late 90s, and earlier - they just work, and work.
    Try a reload if you have troubles.
    Cheers,
    M.

  • Mid 2010 MacBook Pro - Logic Board Failure - Advice Needed

    Hello all,
    I could really use some advice.
    I have a MacBook Pro that I bought through the Apple Online Store roughly around September of 2010. A couple of weeks after buying it I had to take it to the Apple Store in London's White City due to a keyboard backlight issue. About a week later I collected the MBP and the following day had to take it back as the technician that worked on it had not tightened the display brackets up leaving it a bit floppy.
    Now I have serious issues with it. Recently the MacBook has been suffering from freezing up, booting issues and the display randomly shutting off (going black, no pixelating or anything) to the point the machine has become unusable. 2 days ago I took the MBP along to an appointment at the Genius Bar at London's Regent Street Apple Store, I also took along a copy of an Apple knowledge base article regarding this very issue. The knowledge base suggests that on any OS below Mountain Lion a software update is required, for ML or Mavericks an appointment with a service agent is required. During the appointment the Mac Genius suggested it may be a software issue, they would wipe the system and re-install Mavericks then test the machine, I told him I had done this a few days earlier but I guess they have to follow process. He then went on to suggest the display may be faulty, I told him I had no reason to suspect that was the case and moved the screen forwards and backwards at varying speeds without a glimmer of a flicker. At this point after reading about this issue on various forums prior to the appointment I felt that the guy was trying to imply anything maybe at fault but deliberately steering clear of suggesting the logic board, this is just my gut feeling however and i'm perfectly capable of being wrong but I do not feel I am! Anyhow I then proceeded to demonstrate the issue whilst the machine was on, warmed up and right in front of him. I gently and slightly lifted the front left corner of the machine a little way off of the counter, just enough to obviously flex the logic board by a minuscule amount and immediately the display went into a frenzy of going off and on.
    So I left the MBP with them for the guys to do their thing. Today I received the following email:
    "We have attempted to repair your machine by erasing all the data off your machine and reinstalling the latest operating system, Mavericks. This has not resolved the issue of the screen going black when in use. The issue has occurred again for a very short and brief few times once the machine had fully turned on and after testing the issue did not appear again.
    I'm sure the issue will more likely occur again, to repair the machine we would need to replace a part known as the main logic board. This repair is very expensive and will come roughly to £418.80."
    £418.80 GBP, that's pretty much 25% of the original purchase price of the machine new, a Premium 'Pro' labelled machine just 3 years old at that. I cannot possibly afford to pay for the repair. I really despair.
    This MBP has done no work hard enough for it to get stressed. It is used for some web surfing, online shopping, email, online flash based games but mostly for my kids homework. It has spent it's entire life on a table in our living room with the exception of it's Genius Bar trips.
    I love Apple products, it's why as a family we own so many off them. Too many to list on a public forum as I don't want would be burglars inviting themselves around sometime. This issue has tainted my perception of both Apple and it's products. Not so much because of the fault, machines become faulty. No because it's a premium machine that cost me £2100 new and is little more than a paperweight at present just 3 years down the line. Some part of me if i'm honest was wishing but more than that expecting a company like Apple to say along the lines of "This has happened, it shouldn't have and will be repaired at no charge". There are many people suffering this kind of problem with this model and the existence of the knowledge base article must mean Apple knows it too. Just 3 years, £300 PCs last longer than that i'm sure. It does seem to be a very short lifespan for such a high end machine.
    My apologies for droning on but I can neither afford the repair or do without the computer, my son is in his final GCSE year at school and my daughter in her pre GCSE year so a computer is critical for school homework research etc. I just do not know how to move forward, I haven't even picked the machine up yet!
    This isn't a stomping Apple, one man crusade. I just need my MacBook fixed.
    If anyone has had this problem and had it satisfactory resolved, knows who to speak to that may help resolve the issue please let me know.
    Any other advice will be more than welcome.

    Ive repaired 1000s of laptops over the years (translate: diagnose and replace parts).
    Its not that old, Ive owned 100s of laptops (most were free) ....some I still have are nearly 13 years old and still perfect, ....some extremely expensive ones died in under a year.
    other than becoming obsolete at some point, there isnt really any "will spoil on" data like Milk for solid state computer parts, ....alas.
    You can have a $5000 laptop die in 4 months, and a junker one keep kicking after 10 years.... Ive seen that firsthand countless times.
    Common logic dictates that "very expensive = long life" in computers,..... but all the repair people will tell you just the opposite.
    I know you have a gripe, I get that all too well honestly .

  • Tiny burn on a functioning logic board causing dark screen!?

    Hello everyone!!! Hoping someone can help me because i am totally STUMPED!
    I have a 2010 macbook pro and the screen suddenly went dark. The computer works perfecty with an external monitor, so i assumed the backlight was just burnt out.
    When i took it to the Apple Authorized Mac Support Store here in Brooklyn, they thought the same thing and kept it to replace the light. HOWEVER, a few days later when they called the said they had replaced the lights but the screeen was still black! So they opened up the computer and saw that there is a tiny burn on the logic board that is preventing my screen from lighting up.
    I asked them if they can just fix the tiny burn but they said no, i would have to replace the entire logic board for close to $1000.
    Question #1: Does this sound right??? As I said, the computer functions perfectly with an external monitor.
    Question #2: If this is correct, is it possible to just fix the little burn instead of replacing the entire logic board? Some time of component repair?
    Question #3: if i was able to find some place to fix the tiny burn rather than replace the entire logic board, are the chances high that i would have a problem again sometime in the near future?
    I just dont want to go out and have the board replaced for close to $1000 and have the darn thing break a month later. I would be totally screwed. I desperately need this laptop for work!
    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
    Thank you so much!
    Tracy

    It is "broken" if it does not work when connected to good componets like a good screen.
    Based on the phtos and desciption I say it is damaged.

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