Highlight hot and cold areas

When "Highlight hot and cold areas" is turned on I often get some blue outlines in a photo, but when I press "Z" (zoom) they disappear. What is going on?

Could be a number of reasons for this but nothing to worry about. You could try looking at the hot/cold threshold levels but you need to remember smaller images can't hold the same amount of data as large ones. Edge sharpening for example, on the large scale may contrast 10,000 pixels along a 1 inch line to the full size image. Now think what has to happen when the image is shown as a 7x5. Think of it in terms of Bit Depth. With 1 bit there is no grey area and choices have to be made about what to show. In this case it is not a perfect copy of the full size image. Allan

Similar Messages

  • Toggle on "Highlight Hot and Cold Areas"

    Aloha all.
    When ever I toggle on "Highlight Hot and Cold Areas" my image turns solid red. I know I must have a setting turned on or set too high but I can't figure it out? Anyone else with this problem? Solutions?
    Using Aperture 2.1

    In Preferences->Appearance, see what the hot area display threshold is set to. It should be 97 or higher.

  • Highlight Hot and Cold toggle turns entire Image RED!

    Hi,
    I'm curious if anyone has a solution to this issue. I'm using Aperture 2.1.3 on a Macbook Pro running OS Version 10.5.7. I shoot Nikon RAW files and a while back when I hit the ever helpful Option-shift-H (to toggle the Highlight Hot and Cold feature), I end up with the entire image turning red (Hot). Now the histogram is fine, I just can't fine tune the hot and cold areas with the feature. . . I've tried reloading Aperture 2 from the original disk (I did not delete the original copy firs in fear of loosing my images).
    This feature worked fine until about 6 months ago- it probably stopped working during one of the updates. . . The "creative" at the apple store scratched his head and suggested I post here for a solution. . . Any help world be appreciated.

    In Aperture try this:
    Go to Preferences (cmd+,) -> Appearance
    Then set
    Hot Area Display Threshold to 100%
    Cold Area Display Threshold to 0%
    You might have set hot to 0% which would cause all parts of the image to appear red.
    Just play a bit with those sliders to get what you want.

  • Hot and Cold area viewing confusing me...

    Hi Everyone,
    I've been using Aperture 2 since it came and I'm liking the workflow and integration with the rest of OSX. Today I stumbled upon something confusing. I was playing with the display hot and cold areas option and was finding that when I measured the hot areas with the loupe, that the color values weren't actually blown out...
    For example, I had a picture of a rose that when zoomed in, I could see the detail in the petals but was still being flagged as blown out. When I did a loupe rgb read on a 1x1 pixel point, I found that the red value was around 211...I thought that hot areas are 255?
    Maybe I'm confusing what "hot" means. I've even seen cases where the master image is flagged as having more hot areas even though it is less saturated and exposure level is lower.
    Can something be wrong with the hot/cold area function? Can anyone give it a try and see what kind of values they are seeing with the hot and cold area viewer?
    Thanks.

    Hi stjuste
    re Maybe I'm confusing what "hot" means. I've even seen cases where the master image is flagged as having more hot areas even though it is less saturated and exposure level is lower.
    Thought I would check. Used a pic of a dancer at night with firebrands. Pic looks good as I shot it.
    Measured the "Hot Spot' at 255, and some others at a lower value. The manual says:
    Images may occasionally have overly bright areas where color information about the
    area is beyond the standard limits of the Aperture working color space. For example,
    white areas in an image brightly lit with direct sunlight, or bright flashes off a water
    surface, may be so bright that their color is outside the working color space. In addition,
    images may occasionally have black areas where color information about the area is
    below the standard limits of the working color space. Aperture can display these “hot”
    and “cold” areas of an image with tints on the image to help you identify hot and cold
    areas. You may be able to adjust these areas and recover highlight and shadow detail
    identified by the hot and cold area overlays by changing the exposure, the recovery, the
    black point, or the gamma setting of the image.
    This maybe of help.. maybe not. Probably like you I set up the pics how I want them not what any program tells me.
    Interesting though. I will do a bit more checking.
    Cheers
    Tomix.

  • Hot and cold backups

    i am learning to take hot and cold backups and i am having doubts regarding restoring and recovering/
    1. When restoring the cold backup .. i am copying the control and datafiles from the backup and then starting the database with reset logs is this enough?
    2. When i am recovering a tablespace in hot backup .. i have replaced the file from backup. I need to do something with the archive log files. Where do i place them in the database? If i have done some transactions after taking the hotback.. will i loose those transactions?

    "1. When restoring the cold backup .. i am copying the control and datafiles from the backup and then starting the database with reset logs is this enough?"
    Yes, you are right.... also include password file in your backup file list...
    2. When i am recovering a tablespace in hot backup .. i have replaced the file from backup. I need to do something with the archive log files. Where do i place them in the database? If i have done some transactions after taking the hotback.. will i loose those transactions?
    You can place the old datafile at new location also. For hot backup, your DB must
    be running in archive log mode, so you will not loose any transaction.....

  • Why is my Macbook Pro 2.33 so hot and why are my fans on so high?

    So, I'm sitting here with just Safari 3.1.1 open with just this single page, nothing else running on my machine, 3GB of RAM, and activity monitor reports a total 3.5% CPU usage. Why is my Macbook Pro hot like it's really working (not something-is-broken hot, just the temperature I'd expect with Photoshop, Illustrator and Flash all open at the same time) and why are the fans running like a jet engine?
    No weird errors in the console, Spotlight isn't indexing, nothing special in the Dashboard, lots of spare space on the HD, permissions repaired, disks have been checked, I turned off icon previewing on the desktop, top doesn't report anything more than Activity Monitor does -- it really seems like my machine is genuinely wheezing at 3.5%. I was just asked if I wouldn't mind working in another room because my machine is so noisy. You heard me right, my Macbook Pro is getting me kicked out of places.
    I've put up with the clump of dead pixels, airport connection issues, now-useless DVD burner that an Apple update bricked, and early battery death, but this one is just boggling. If anyone has any advice I'd be grateful.

    Welcome to Apple Discussions!
    Do you have iStatPro? You can download it from the Apple site and see what it is that is running so hot. Under the low usage you describe, the fans should be idling silently. And you might be able to tell what is getting so hot.
    If Activity Monitor doesn't show anything, then you might want to run the extended version of the Apple Hardware Test. It sounds like something is getting very hot. If there is a hardware problem, then you should get one or more error codes. The Apple Hardware Test is on Install Disc #1 of the gray discs that came with your Mac--you boot to it by holding down "D". Instructions are on the disc and on the screen.
    Also, be sure you have "All Processes" selected on the Activity Monitor. And the boxes at the bottom should be mostly black with very little red or green at 3.5% CPU usage. Given all the symptoms, I am surprised that there is not some process running amok in the background.
    Good luck!

  • Hot and Cold + USB?

    I know this subject has seen a lot of mileage, but I would like to offer my views on the CPU temperature problem / Cold boot
    I have just purchased a KT600 Delta FISR Mobo, having had a very good experience with my KT4 Ultra.
    To say it runs hot is an over-statement, my set-up is
    AMD Athlon 2400
    512mb 2700 DDR [266]
    2 x 80gb HDD [ Maxtor & IBM ]
    Now I must start by saying, that I like small cases as I have a nice desk and it has to sit inside a cupboad. So I like cases where the power supply sits to the side of the CPU and not above. Also the depth of the cabinet is much less with the CDRom almost touching the Mobo. On the KT600 with the power connecter where it is I cannot use that bay!!.
    Also I like HDD caddies so all my PC's have always had HDD caddies and these have there own fans
    The cases have two front fans [ Un-obstructed - no floppy ]  drawing air in and the PSU draws air out of the back.
    In addition to that I have fitted to the KT6 Delta a Exhaust Fan that also draws air out. So I think I have a good air flow.
    Now before you say, what do you expect, well I have two of these cases the other one houses my KT4 Ultra and it is exactly the same config except that the power socket is at the back behind the connectivity outlets.
    This PC runs at 21c in idle [ 2100 Palimino Athlon ] and 30c when working hard.
    [ Qtec 450w PSU ]
    So I have been experimenting and with the case open and the power supply lifeted out the temperature is 54c idle. Case closed and power supply in situ it rises to 64c idle.
    Now I did have a Q-Tec 550w PSU and I have read your comments so I changed it for a 400watt with actual power ratings [ not peak ] and it made vey little difference. I measured the voltages straight out of the power supplies I have tried and the 12v and 5volt vary very little from PSU to PSU and very little on load
    Also measuring the on board regulators I can not detect any variance in voltage that is in sympathy with the changes shown by MSI Core Centre
    So looking at the MSI Core Centre,  
    VCore = 1.65
    3.3 = 3.45
    +5v = 5.03
    +12v = 11.70 to 11.82
    If I install CPUIdle the  MSI Core Centre now reads
    VCore = 1.65
    3.3 = 3.45
    +5v = 5.00
    +12v = 11.94 [ Rock Steady]
    CPU Temperature 49/50c idle [ whether the case is open or not ]
    So what is CPUIdle doing?  My guess it is making up for fluctuations in the voltage regulation [ It would seem that a more acurate 12volts gives to a lower CPU temperature ]
    It is certainly making the Mobo stable, which suggest un-aided it is not as stable as it could be.
    Something else I have noticed the CPU heatsink does not feel unduly hot.
    USB
    Something else I noticed, I have a external USB 2.0 HDD enclosure, housing a 40gb 3.5 Maxtor HDD.
    When pluggged in the temperature will rise by 10 degrees
    [ I use to leave it on all the time on my KT4 Ultra ]
    [ But in fairness it also raises the temperature on the KT4 ]
    The load must be having an affect on the power in some way
    The enclosure has its own power supply but uses the 5v available via USB
    All this leaves me wondering how to proceed. I am not an overclocker or a gamer I simply use my PC as a work tool. The most I ever do is to log in to my works router to administrate the network from home.
    Cold Boot
    Yes my Mobo also hangs on starting Windows when cold.
    All in all I am not a happy bunny, and would like to know what MSI views are on this.  
    Finally Although PC Alert will install on my PC [ Windows XP Pro ] XP Cooler will not work. It keeps throwing up a HM_Driver load error. Any ideas?
    Kind Regards to you all

    Hi Guys
    Thanks for your thoughts,
    First  osnavi
    My mistake the memory is 333mhz CAS 2.5 All Ok here Sorry if I mislead you.
    Fredrik Åsenius & osnavi
    Yes I agree I do not have the ideal situation here, but I have had many PC's right from the IBM Blue Lightning and Dell 25mhz and my ex PC KT4 ran just fine in the same situation and same case [ and still does and it does not have an exhaust fan other than the fan in the PSU]
    Incidently when the PC is in use the door of the desk/cupboard is open, but not ideal I agree.  I draw cold air in the front and exhaust it out the back
    The problem of temperature rise is the same whether the PC is in situ or sat outside on floor.
    However the point is this, why does CPUidle regulate the 12 volt rail and as such, bring the temperature down?
    Why does USB hardware cause the 12 volt rail to fall and as such the temperature rise
    My guess is poor voltage regulation on the Mobo.
    No amount of cooling hardware will cure this.
    In short I think the regulatiion on the Mobo is poor, which is a shame as the Mobo has a lot going for it at the price.
    Matkel
    I would be interested to know what your temperature was before and after, and what BIOS version you updated from?
    I have updated from 5.4 to 5.5 but I did not notice any improvement.
    ALL
    Surely the point here is,  if there were no concerns on temperature then people like ourselves would not be talking and writing about it.
    As I see it there is a temperature control problem and the focus should be on cause. As I said at the beginning, my observations led me to beleive that the temperature is directly linked to the 12volts supply.
    What I would like to know is what 12 volt supply is Core Centre / PC Alert monitoring.
    I think that those of you who have opted for a Top Quality PSU have cured the symptons because the PSU has better power regulation, but not the cause.
    It is arguable that a PC should have a good quality power supply, but their are a lot os PC's out there that have a bulk standard 350w / 400w PSU of no particular brand and they don't have a temperature problem.
    Kind regards
    Paul

  • How can I balance (or eliminate) hot and cold spots in a photograph taken under mixed lighting?

    I have recently purchased some high resolution color photographs of black and white drawings. It appears that they may have been taken near a window because the left side of the images are noticeably cooler than the right side. Can I change the temperature in selected areas of an image? If so how can I do this?

    This is with just a masked Solid Color Layer set to Blend Mode Color, but you could also try Curves (which would allow to better control the color-change in relation to luminance), Photo Filter, etc.:

  • Internet is hot and cold on macbook

    I've been having a lot of trouble with my internet on my Macbook Pro just for the past week. Basically it just gets really slow, or just stops responding to the internet. I know that the network is totally connected (it says so on the Airport ting) and my roommates who also have Macs are not having any issue with it at all. I keep restarting the computer as well as the router, and it usually does the trick, but often only for a short while (sometimes as little as a couple minutes) before I have to do it again. What can I do to make my internet work normally again?
    I'm not very computer savvy so any little bit of advice would help. Thanks.

    I have this too! I blogged about this topic here( http://www.olij.co.uk/whitenoise/os-x-snow-leopard-wifi-issues/) - it seems to be a more' longer term' fix, but essentially it still crops up about once a week and I've yet to resolve it:
    essentially:
    Trash the airport config file in /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration. Copy the file to somewhere safe (desktop) and then delete it in the original location and restart the mac whilst clearing the nvram.
    I've been leaving with this problem for 18 months now, and to be honest I'm really growing tired of it. sigh.

  • Sony SR-82 Hot and Cold

    Yes, I know there are at least two previous threads with conflicting reports of IM8 compatibility but I just ran across something curious. My parents SR82 is easily recognized by my Macbook running IM8 with the ability to import but their iMac will not. Exact same camera. We both have intel dual core and are running the exact same version of iLife. The only difference I can find is that my quicktime version is 7.2 and theirs 7.3. There is also a difference in behavior. When the camera is powered on and placed in USB mode, IM8 opens on my computer but iPhoto opens in theirs. What am I missing here?

    Thanks for all the help Tom. I reconverted the mpeg's to Quicktime DV and they now show up without rendering.
    As a side note, I finally purchased a memory stick for the HDR CX-7 and it imported into Final Cut like a dream...and....as Apple promised, I put the High Def footage into the timeline along with the converted mpegs and it all works together without a hitch. It would be nice if Apple could figure out a codec for those folks with mpeg2 cameras. It is a lot of workaround to get it where it needs to be. Apple got me for the Quicktime mpeg add-on...glad the Streamclip folks aren't so greedy!

  • Color problem - Hot & Cold areas

    I have downloaded a trial version of Aperture 2 and have been familiarizing myself with its various new features. I played with the preference settings and now my photos are showing "hot" and "cold" areas even after I reset the sliders to 100% for hot and 0% for cold. I have moved the sliders to all possible positions to no avail.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks

    In your menu bar go to View->Highlight Hot & Cold Areas. Select it to remove the check mark and turn the feature off.

  • Turning of Shadow (Cold area)

    I was one of the first buyers of Aperture when first introduced. I did not like many aspects of v. 1 (library, slow performance) so I migrated to Lightroom. When Aperture 2.0 was introduced, I downloaded the Trial and loved the new version so much, I purchased the upgrade.
    One thing I do not like about v2.01 is I can not figure out how to leave on the blown Highlights but turn off the Shadow (cold) area. I just find the blue tint so distracting when adjusting white balance. Has anyone found a way to disable only the Shadow (cold areas)? Lightroom gives you the choice of leaving the shadow area turned off while having the Highlights on.
    I have posted a comment about this in the Aperture feedback area.

    Hi stjuste
    re Maybe I'm confusing what "hot" means. I've even seen cases where the master image is flagged as having more hot areas even though it is less saturated and exposure level is lower.
    Thought I would check. Used a pic of a dancer at night with firebrands. Pic looks good as I shot it.
    Measured the "Hot Spot' at 255, and some others at a lower value. The manual says:
    Images may occasionally have overly bright areas where color information about the
    area is beyond the standard limits of the Aperture working color space. For example,
    white areas in an image brightly lit with direct sunlight, or bright flashes off a water
    surface, may be so bright that their color is outside the working color space. In addition,
    images may occasionally have black areas where color information about the area is
    below the standard limits of the working color space. Aperture can display these “hot”
    and “cold” areas of an image with tints on the image to help you identify hot and cold
    areas. You may be able to adjust these areas and recover highlight and shadow detail
    identified by the hot and cold area overlays by changing the exposure, the recovery, the
    black point, or the gamma setting of the image.
    This maybe of help.. maybe not. Probably like you I set up the pics how I want them not what any program tells me.
    Interesting though. I will do a bit more checking.
    Cheers
    Tomix.

  • HIGHLIGHT HOT & COLD AREAS

    WHEN I CLICK ON THE HIGHLIGHT HOT & COLD AREAS,IN VIEW TO TURN IT ON.
    EVERY PHOTO I GO TO ( IN ANY PROJECT OR ALBUM ,IT`S GOT THE HOT IN RED WHICH CAN BE ADJUSTED )
    BUT THE WHOLE PHOTO, PHOTO`S GO BLUE WHICH MEANS I CAN NOT ADJUST THE COLD SPOTS.

    Hopefully not telling you to suck eggs here but it might be worth watching a few of the tutorials that discuss image editing and adjustments, there are videos on all of the processes you need to understand in order to manage your highlights and shadows. Start at the top and work your way through them, made a world of difference for me.
    http://www.apple.com/aperture/tutorials/
    Also you will find a plethora of information here, specifically a pdf on "performing adjustments"
    http://www.apple.com/support/aperture/
    Hope these help you to understand how to manage the highlights and shadows, hot and cold functions.
    Tony

  • Feature: Saving image. Problem: When giving name, as default name and extention are highlighted. I want only the name to be highlighted.

    When saving items via firefox, like a picture, the name and extention are highlighted, e.g. "nameofpicture.gif"
    Can I change it so that it only hightlights the name and not the extention, e.g. "nameofpicture"?
    See link to picture of problem...
    http://fonon.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/images/firefoxproblem.png

    David,
    I don’t have the option to append the file extension.  I am using:
    Adobe Photoshop Elements Version: 11.0 (11.0 (20120830.r.32025)) x32
    Operating System: Windows 8 64-bit
    Version: 6.2
    Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    Rich
    Sent from Windows Mail

  • Cloning : hot cloning and cold cloning

    hi
    how to clone in EBS R12.I am a core DBA student currenly working as trainee in EBS dba.
    can anyone explain ....
    i am requesting some details on hot cloning , cold cloning and user managed cloning techniques.
    in user managed cloning i need to run adpreclone.pl then copy some files then whats for when using rapid clone ??
    rgrds

    See the below metalink notes on cloning..
    Note 230672.1 - Cloning Oracle Applications Release 11i with Rapid Clone
    Note 362473.1 - Cloning E-Business Suite Using Hot Backup for Minimal Downtime of Source Environment
    Note: 799735.1 - Rapid Clone Documentation Resources, Release 11i and 12
    Note: 216664.1 - FAQ: Cloning Oracle Applications Release 11i
    Hope this helps
    Regards
    http://www.oracleracexpert.com
    Click here for steps to [Oracle version upgrade from 10.2.0.x to 10.2.0.4
    http://www.oracleracexpert.com/2009/10/oracle-version-upgrade-from-1020x-to.html
    Click here to [Download Oracle Grid Control and ASMLib and Install
    http://www.oracleracexpert.com/2009/08/download-oracle-grid-control-and-asmlib.html                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

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