Highlight Hot and Cold toggle turns entire Image RED!

Hi,
I'm curious if anyone has a solution to this issue. I'm using Aperture 2.1.3 on a Macbook Pro running OS Version 10.5.7. I shoot Nikon RAW files and a while back when I hit the ever helpful Option-shift-H (to toggle the Highlight Hot and Cold feature), I end up with the entire image turning red (Hot). Now the histogram is fine, I just can't fine tune the hot and cold areas with the feature. . . I've tried reloading Aperture 2 from the original disk (I did not delete the original copy firs in fear of loosing my images).
This feature worked fine until about 6 months ago- it probably stopped working during one of the updates. . . The "creative" at the apple store scratched his head and suggested I post here for a solution. . . Any help world be appreciated.

In Aperture try this:
Go to Preferences (cmd+,) -> Appearance
Then set
Hot Area Display Threshold to 100%
Cold Area Display Threshold to 0%
You might have set hot to 0% which would cause all parts of the image to appear red.
Just play a bit with those sliders to get what you want.

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Toggle on "Highlight Hot and Cold Areas"

Aloha all.
When ever I toggle on "Highlight Hot and Cold Areas" my image turns solid red. I know I must have a setting turned on or set too high but I can't figure it out? Anyone else with this problem? Solutions?
Using Aperture 2.1

In Preferences->Appearance, see what the hot area display threshold is set to. It should be 97 or higher.

Highlight hot and cold areas

When "Highlight hot and cold areas" is turned on I often get some blue outlines in a photo, but when I press "Z" (zoom) they disappear. What is going on?

Could be a number of reasons for this but nothing to worry about. You could try looking at the hot/cold threshold levels but you need to remember smaller images can't hold the same amount of data as large ones. Edge sharpening for example, on the large scale may contrast 10,000 pixels along a 1 inch line to the full size image. Now think what has to happen when the image is shown as a 7x5. Think of it in terms of Bit Depth. With 1 bit there is no grey area and choices have to be made about what to show. In this case it is not a perfect copy of the full size image. Allan

Hot and Cold area viewing confusing me...

Hi Everyone,
I've been using Aperture 2 since it came and I'm liking the workflow and integration with the rest of OSX. Today I stumbled upon something confusing. I was playing with the display hot and cold areas option and was finding that when I measured the hot areas with the loupe, that the color values weren't actually blown out...
For example, I had a picture of a rose that when zoomed in, I could see the detail in the petals but was still being flagged as blown out. When I did a loupe rgb read on a 1x1 pixel point, I found that the red value was around 211...I thought that hot areas are 255?
Maybe I'm confusing what "hot" means. I've even seen cases where the master image is flagged as having more hot areas even though it is less saturated and exposure level is lower.
Can something be wrong with the hot/cold area function? Can anyone give it a try and see what kind of values they are seeing with the hot and cold area viewer?
Thanks.

Hi stjuste
re Maybe I'm confusing what "hot" means. I've even seen cases where the master image is flagged as having more hot areas even though it is less saturated and exposure level is lower.
Thought I would check. Used a pic of a dancer at night with firebrands. Pic looks good as I shot it.
Measured the "Hot Spot' at 255, and some others at a lower value. The manual says:
Images may occasionally have overly bright areas where color information about the
area is beyond the standard limits of the Aperture working color space. For example,
white areas in an image brightly lit with direct sunlight, or bright flashes off a water
surface, may be so bright that their color is outside the working color space. In addition,
images may occasionally have black areas where color information about the area is
below the standard limits of the working color space. Aperture can display these “hot”
and “cold” areas of an image with tints on the image to help you identify hot and cold
areas. You may be able to adjust these areas and recover highlight and shadow detail
identified by the hot and cold area overlays by changing the exposure, the recovery, the
black point, or the gamma setting of the image.
This maybe of help.. maybe not. Probably like you I set up the pics how I want them not what any program tells me.
Interesting though. I will do a bit more checking.
Cheers
Tomix.

The iPod touch 5 battery won't charge, the iPod battery gets hot and doesn't turn on... What is wrong? Can photos and data be retrieved?

The iPod touch 5 battery won't charge, the iPod battery gets hot and doesn't turn on... What is wrong? Can photos and data be retrieved?

- See:
iPod touch: Hardware troubleshooting
- Try another cable. Some 5G iPods were shipped with Lightning cable that were either initially defective or failed after short use.
- Try another charging source
- Inspect the dock connector on the iPod for bent or missing contacts, foreign material, corroded contacts, broken, missing or cracked plastic.
- Make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store. I suspect a hardware problem due to the hotness. If iTunes can't see the iPod then uor only hope if to contact a data recovery company for getting data off the iPod. If you have an iPod backup you can restore another iPod, iPhone or iPad from the backup to get the data that was in the backup
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar

Hot and cold backups

i am learning to take hot and cold backups and i am having doubts regarding restoring and recovering/
1. When restoring the cold backup .. i am copying the control and datafiles from the backup and then starting the database with reset logs is this enough?
2. When i am recovering a tablespace in hot backup .. i have replaced the file from backup. I need to do something with the archive log files. Where do i place them in the database? If i have done some transactions after taking the hotback.. will i loose those transactions?

"1. When restoring the cold backup .. i am copying the control and datafiles from the backup and then starting the database with reset logs is this enough?"
Yes, you are right.... also include password file in your backup file list...
2. When i am recovering a tablespace in hot backup .. i have replaced the file from backup. I need to do something with the archive log files. Where do i place them in the database? If i have done some transactions after taking the hotback.. will i loose those transactions?
You can place the old datafile at new location also. For hot backup, your DB must
be running in archive log mode, so you will not loose any transaction.....

My Ipod touch 2nd gen. was working fine but when I tried to charge from my PC the Ipod start getting too hot and the screen turn black and doesn't work anymore.Maybe is burn?

My Ipod touch 2nd generation was working fine until I tried to charge again from my PC,when I connected the Ipod was getting too hot and smelling like burn cable,the screen turn black and doesn't work anymore. any ideas about what happen?

You can try here:
iPod touch: Hardware troubleshooting
However, from your discription, I suspect that something is broken. Maybe a dead battery. In that case. I would make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store and see what they say.

Scroll bar and tab bar turn to images, images on a page repeat themselves

I don't know exactly how to explain my problem so I'll just give some examples.
- On youtube, video thumbnails copy themselves on top of the other video thumbnails, and sometimes I can see 2 or 3 same thumbnail, but when I hover the cursor above them they return to normal. The names or video links are unaffected, just the thumbnail.
- On facebook and some other forums, same problem exists. One thing I noticed, it doesn't affect huge files, as in it doesn't replace huge images but copies something like 200x200 image to some other place.
- Some of the tabs in tab bar and scroll bar sometimes turn into diagonal patterns, and scroll bar sometimes has the same problem I gave as example above. The grey default layer turns into an image. But hovering the cursor above it returns it to normal again.
Any help is appreciated.

Hi, thanks a lot for the support. I've found the solution!
I've checked all of the installed programs on my system. All programs are from verified publishers.
Actual problem was with graphic drivers. My laptop is Sony Vaio and therefore I had the recommended latest drivers (for my graphic card) available from Sony website installed. The graphic card is from NVIDIA GeForce. So, don't know why but I uninstalled all graphic drivers from the system and downloaded the latest drivers available for my graphic card hardware from NVIDIA website. Now the new latest drivers from NVIDIA solved the problem !!! Firefox is working perfect. No problem on any website.
May be the same can work for other Firefox users also having this problem. No need to disable "hardware acceleration when available" in Firefox.
Happy !!!! :D :D

Hot and Cold + USB?

I know this subject has seen a lot of mileage, but I would like to offer my views on the CPU temperature problem / Cold boot
I have just purchased a KT600 Delta FISR Mobo, having had a very good experience with my KT4 Ultra.
To say it runs hot is an over-statement, my set-up is
AMD Athlon 2400
512mb 2700 DDR [266]
2 x 80gb HDD [ Maxtor & IBM ]
Now I must start by saying, that I like small cases as I have a nice desk and it has to sit inside a cupboad. So I like cases where the power supply sits to the side of the CPU and not above. Also the depth of the cabinet is much less with the CDRom almost touching the Mobo. On the KT600 with the power connecter where it is I cannot use that bay!!.
Also I like HDD caddies so all my PC's have always had HDD caddies and these have there own fans
The cases have two front fans [ Un-obstructed - no floppy ] drawing air in and the PSU draws air out of the back.
In addition to that I have fitted to the KT6 Delta a Exhaust Fan that also draws air out. So I think I have a good air flow.
Now before you say, what do you expect, well I have two of these cases the other one houses my KT4 Ultra and it is exactly the same config except that the power socket is at the back behind the connectivity outlets.
This PC runs at 21c in idle [ 2100 Palimino Athlon ] and 30c when working hard.
[ Qtec 450w PSU ]
So I have been experimenting and with the case open and the power supply lifeted out the temperature is 54c idle. Case closed and power supply in situ it rises to 64c idle.
Now I did have a Q-Tec 550w PSU and I have read your comments so I changed it for a 400watt with actual power ratings [ not peak ] and it made vey little difference. I measured the voltages straight out of the power supplies I have tried and the 12v and 5volt vary very little from PSU to PSU and very little on load
Also measuring the on board regulators I can not detect any variance in voltage that is in sympathy with the changes shown by MSI Core Centre
So looking at the MSI Core Centre,
VCore = 1.65
3.3 = 3.45
+5v = 5.03
+12v = 11.70 to 11.82
If I install CPUIdle the MSI Core Centre now reads
VCore = 1.65
3.3 = 3.45
+5v = 5.00
+12v = 11.94 [ Rock Steady]
CPU Temperature 49/50c idle [ whether the case is open or not ]
So what is CPUIdle doing? My guess it is making up for fluctuations in the voltage regulation [ It would seem that a more acurate 12volts gives to a lower CPU temperature ]
It is certainly making the Mobo stable, which suggest un-aided it is not as stable as it could be.
Something else I have noticed the CPU heatsink does not feel unduly hot.
USB
Something else I noticed, I have a external USB 2.0 HDD enclosure, housing a 40gb 3.5 Maxtor HDD.
When pluggged in the temperature will rise by 10 degrees
[ I use to leave it on all the time on my KT4 Ultra ]
[ But in fairness it also raises the temperature on the KT4 ]
The load must be having an affect on the power in some way
The enclosure has its own power supply but uses the 5v available via USB
All this leaves me wondering how to proceed. I am not an overclocker or a gamer I simply use my PC as a work tool. The most I ever do is to log in to my works router to administrate the network from home.
Cold Boot
Yes my Mobo also hangs on starting Windows when cold.
All in all I am not a happy bunny, and would like to know what MSI views are on this.
Finally Although PC Alert will install on my PC [ Windows XP Pro ] XP Cooler will not work. It keeps throwing up a HM_Driver load error. Any ideas?
Kind Regards to you all

Hi Guys
Thanks for your thoughts,
First osnavi
My mistake the memory is 333mhz CAS 2.5 All Ok here Sorry if I mislead you.
Fredrik Åsenius & osnavi
Yes I agree I do not have the ideal situation here, but I have had many PC's right from the IBM Blue Lightning and Dell 25mhz and my ex PC KT4 ran just fine in the same situation and same case [ and still does and it does not have an exhaust fan other than the fan in the PSU]
Incidently when the PC is in use the door of the desk/cupboard is open, but not ideal I agree. I draw cold air in the front and exhaust it out the back
The problem of temperature rise is the same whether the PC is in situ or sat outside on floor.
However the point is this, why does CPUidle regulate the 12 volt rail and as such, bring the temperature down?
Why does USB hardware cause the 12 volt rail to fall and as such the temperature rise
My guess is poor voltage regulation on the Mobo.
No amount of cooling hardware will cure this.
In short I think the regulatiion on the Mobo is poor, which is a shame as the Mobo has a lot going for it at the price.
Matkel
I would be interested to know what your temperature was before and after, and what BIOS version you updated from?
I have updated from 5.4 to 5.5 but I did not notice any improvement.
ALL
Surely the point here is, if there were no concerns on temperature then people like ourselves would not be talking and writing about it.
As I see it there is a temperature control problem and the focus should be on cause. As I said at the beginning, my observations led me to beleive that the temperature is directly linked to the 12volts supply.
What I would like to know is what 12 volt supply is Core Centre / PC Alert monitoring.
I think that those of you who have opted for a Top Quality PSU have cured the symptons because the PSU has better power regulation, but not the cause.
It is arguable that a PC should have a good quality power supply, but their are a lot os PC's out there that have a bulk standard 350w / 400w PSU of no particular brand and they don't have a temperature problem.
Kind regards
Paul

How can I balance (or eliminate) hot and cold spots in a photograph taken under mixed lighting?

I have recently purchased some high resolution color photographs of black and white drawings. It appears that they may have been taken near a window because the left side of the images are noticeably cooler than the right side. Can I change the temperature in selected areas of an image? If so how can I do this?

This is with just a masked Solid Color Layer set to Blend Mode Color, but you could also try Curves (which would allow to better control the color-change in relation to luminance), Photo Filter, etc.:

Internet is hot and cold on macbook

I've been having a lot of trouble with my internet on my Macbook Pro just for the past week. Basically it just gets really slow, or just stops responding to the internet. I know that the network is totally connected (it says so on the Airport ting) and my roommates who also have Macs are not having any issue with it at all. I keep restarting the computer as well as the router, and it usually does the trick, but often only for a short while (sometimes as little as a couple minutes) before I have to do it again. What can I do to make my internet work normally again?
I'm not very computer savvy so any little bit of advice would help. Thanks.

I have this too! I blogged about this topic here( http://www.olij.co.uk/whitenoise/os-x-snow-leopard-wifi-issues/) - it seems to be a more' longer term' fix, but essentially it still crops up about once a week and I've yet to resolve it:
essentially:
Trash the airport config file in /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration. Copy the file to somewhere safe (desktop) and then delete it in the original location and restart the mac whilst clearing the nvram.
I've been leaving with this problem for 18 months now, and to be honest I'm really growing tired of it. sigh.

Sony SR-82 Hot and Cold

Yes, I know there are at least two previous threads with conflicting reports of IM8 compatibility but I just ran across something curious. My parents SR82 is easily recognized by my Macbook running IM8 with the ability to import but their iMac will not. Exact same camera. We both have intel dual core and are running the exact same version of iLife. The only difference I can find is that my quicktime version is 7.2 and theirs 7.3. There is also a difference in behavior. When the camera is powered on and placed in USB mode, IM8 opens on my computer but iPhoto opens in theirs. What am I missing here?

Thanks for all the help Tom. I reconverted the mpeg's to Quicktime DV and they now show up without rendering.
As a side note, I finally purchased a memory stick for the HDR CX-7 and it imported into Final Cut like a dream...and....as Apple promised, I put the High Def footage into the timeline along with the converted mpegs and it all works together without a hitch. It would be nice if Apple could figure out a codec for those folks with mpeg2 cameras. It is a lot of workaround to get it where it needs to be. Apple got me for the Quicktime mpeg add-on...glad the Streamclip folks aren't so greedy!

HIGHLIGHT HOT & COLD AREAS

WHEN I CLICK ON THE HIGHLIGHT HOT & COLD AREAS,IN VIEW TO TURN IT ON.
EVERY PHOTO I GO TO ( IN ANY PROJECT OR ALBUM ,IT`S GOT THE HOT IN RED WHICH CAN BE ADJUSTED )
BUT THE WHOLE PHOTO, PHOTO`S GO BLUE WHICH MEANS I CAN NOT ADJUST THE COLD SPOTS.

Hopefully not telling you to suck eggs here but it might be worth watching a few of the tutorials that discuss image editing and adjustments, there are videos on all of the processes you need to understand in order to manage your highlights and shadows. Start at the top and work your way through them, made a world of difference for me.
http://www.apple.com/aperture/tutorials/
Also you will find a plethora of information here, specifically a pdf on "performing adjustments"
http://www.apple.com/support/aperture/
Hope these help you to understand how to manage the highlights and shadows, hot and cold functions.
Tony

My ipod is hot and wont turn on

My ipod is hot and won't turn on
Gy.

Try:
- iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
- Also try DFU mode after try recovery mode
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
- If not successful and you can't fully turn the iOS device fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
- If still not successful that usually indicates a hardware problem and an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store is in order.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar

IPad Mini overheated and won't turn on.

Hello everyone, I would like to kindly ask if I can replace my ipad mini 32gb wifi +cellular if I bring it tomorrow at the apple store. I am from the Philippines and I also bought my ipad mini here also. I think it is still covered by my 1 year warranty because I bought it March last year (2013).
This is what happened. I was charging my iPad Mini yesterday and left it for a few hours, after 3 hours I think, I checked it and it was hot and won't turn on anymore. I immediately unplugged the charger and tried to reboot it and also tried connecting it on itunes but it didn't solve my problem. It stayed like that for 7 hours and then cooled down afterwards, until now it's not working.
So yeah, if it won't turn on because it overheated or for some other reasons, Can it be replaced? Will there be any payments?

We are fellow users here on these forums, you're not talking to iTunes Support nor Apple.
Have you tried a soft-reset to see if that gets it to boot up ? Press and hold both the sleep and home buttons for about 10 to 15 seconds, after which the Apple logo will hopefully appear - you won't lose any content, it's the iPad equivalent of a reboot.
If not then whether you might need to pay will depend upon what the store says and whether they think that it's covered by the warranty. Does the iPad have signs of damage anywhere on it e.g. dents ? Only the store will be able to tell you whether it's covered or not.

Highlight Hot and Cold toggle turns entire Image RED!

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